Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-12 Thread Jim Cathey

or there is supposed to be a very small
amount of water movement even if the AC is on.


Yes.  Even the manual heater valves don't shut off 100%,
that keeps the system healthier IIRC.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-08 Thread Tim Crone
On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 7:14 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

  What's wrong with the Unwired Tools kit, besides the fact that it's way
  overpriced for something that anyone with some electronics and
 fabrication
  skill should be able to cobble together out of an Arduino and some
 aquarium
  tubing?

 I think the Unwired kit pre-dates the availability of cheap, flexible
 microcontrollers like arduino.  Someone with motivation could proably
 drastically undercut their price now.  But the hard part is figuring out
 how all the different modes of operation work.  I think there's enough
 documetation of the ACC online to be able to work it out, but it would
 take some time and tinkering.  And the market for it is pretty tiny now
 and will only get smaller.


I took this puppy apart the other night.  It was shockingly corroded, and I
still don't understand exactly how the vacuum part works.  Not a
super-complex mechanism mechanically though. (By the way, Mitch wins the
first question; I was able to put a #10 in the bad slot and it is now air-
and hopefully water-tight.)

The main section, the big round part that is cracked, has a 9-or-10-gear
reducer and a motor in it.  It distance-limits the turning of the gearing
with a peg through a plastic gear, and all but one of the other gears in
the reducer appear to be copper.  The gear farthest from the motor is in
the middle, turns the fastest, and has a friction coupling to a
screw-and-gasket.  This last moves up and down, in conjunction with a small
straw, to let more or less water from the main channel [which I assume is
pass-through to the radiator] to the small channel [which I assume goes to
the cabin].  I could not get a strong seal even with the screw all the way
closed; so either the rubber is old or there is supposed to be a very small
amount of water movement even if the AC is on.

All my gears were completely frozen, both with corrosion and ancient
grease.  I was able to pull two locking rings off the gear assembly, and
one of the gearsets pushed out the bottom.  The other was stuck until I
pried up the center gear, which sits on a friction ring, then I could knock
the remaining gears out.  The casing is a pair of flat metal pieces that
screw together, functional but again not complex.

The motor has two leads.  Mine are broken off, but it looks like a standard
12V motor so the pegs should be on the end somewhere.  There was a
capacitor (?) across the terminals, at one point, but it fell off many
years ago and has too much corrosion on it for me to identify.  I haven't
decided if I want to try to fix the motor, I'm quite sure the alignment on
this whole thing is way out of whack.

At the top of the gearset there is an armature that moves back and forth
between a maze of contacts.  It looks like this maze determines the
direction of the motor.  The armature rests on a switch, and the switch has
a rubber piece that has another complex maze set into it.  I -think- if you
pull a vacuum on a certain part of this maze from above, the armature is
supposed to turn into place and set the appropriate voltage for the motor.
 If you pull too hard (or maybe stop pulling?) then the switch will lift,
and that cuts off power to the motor.

There are still some unexplained things - there is a vacuum port on the
bottom of the controller that doesn't seem to do anything, but has a nice
gasket embedded in the plastic.  I still don't understand why there are so
many vacuum points in the main connection.  I have no idea how the AC is
triggered.  There's a spring inside the big channel that I can't explain.
 Probably some other stuff.  I didn't find as much vacuum stuff as I was
expecting; there was a bank of right-angle connectors, but that's all I
came across.  It may be there is some channel thing between those and the
armature that I haven't figured out how to open, yet.

Unfortunately while I was taking pictures my phone got full, so I don't
have many.  As I go through to grease, solder, and close it up I will try
to get more, in case someone else wants to try it some day.

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-08 Thread Scott Ritchey

This link should tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the ACC II
servo:  http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/servo

These things have a couple of bad flaws.  First the plastic part is prone to
cracking and leaking, especially with age.  Second there is a seal of the
shaft that controls coolant flow which will fail allowing coolant and crud
to hum up the gears and electrical connections under the top cover.  I don't
know anyone who installed the unwired tools kit.  George Murphy sells
rebuilt units with a metal chamber in place of the plastic one.  But, as far
as I know, once they start to leak they are toast.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim Crone
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 2:39 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 7:14 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

  What's wrong with the Unwired Tools kit, besides the fact that it's way
  overpriced for something that anyone with some electronics and
 fabrication
  skill should be able to cobble together out of an Arduino and some
 aquarium
  tubing?

 I think the Unwired kit pre-dates the availability of cheap, flexible
 microcontrollers like arduino.  Someone with motivation could proably
 drastically undercut their price now.  But the hard part is figuring out
 how all the different modes of operation work.  I think there's enough
 documetation of the ACC online to be able to work it out, but it would
 take some time and tinkering.  And the market for it is pretty tiny now
 and will only get smaller.


I took this puppy apart the other night.  It was shockingly corroded, and I
still don't understand exactly how the vacuum part works.  Not a
super-complex mechanism mechanically though. (By the way, Mitch wins the
first question; I was able to put a #10 in the bad slot and it is now air-
and hopefully water-tight.)

The main section, the big round part that is cracked, has a 9-or-10-gear
reducer and a motor in it.  It distance-limits the turning of the gearing
with a peg through a plastic gear, and all but one of the other gears in
the reducer appear to be copper.  The gear farthest from the motor is in
the middle, turns the fastest, and has a friction coupling to a
screw-and-gasket.  This last moves up and down, in conjunction with a small
straw, to let more or less water from the main channel [which I assume is
pass-through to the radiator] to the small channel [which I assume goes to
the cabin].  I could not get a strong seal even with the screw all the way
closed; so either the rubber is old or there is supposed to be a very small
amount of water movement even if the AC is on.

All my gears were completely frozen, both with corrosion and ancient
grease.  I was able to pull two locking rings off the gear assembly, and
one of the gearsets pushed out the bottom.  The other was stuck until I
pried up the center gear, which sits on a friction ring, then I could knock
the remaining gears out.  The casing is a pair of flat metal pieces that
screw together, functional but again not complex.

The motor has two leads.  Mine are broken off, but it looks like a standard
12V motor so the pegs should be on the end somewhere.  There was a
capacitor (?) across the terminals, at one point, but it fell off many
years ago and has too much corrosion on it for me to identify.  I haven't
decided if I want to try to fix the motor, I'm quite sure the alignment on
this whole thing is way out of whack.

At the top of the gearset there is an armature that moves back and forth
between a maze of contacts.  It looks like this maze determines the
direction of the motor.  The armature rests on a switch, and the switch has
a rubber piece that has another complex maze set into it.  I -think- if you
pull a vacuum on a certain part of this maze from above, the armature is
supposed to turn into place and set the appropriate voltage for the motor.
 If you pull too hard (or maybe stop pulling?) then the switch will lift,
and that cuts off power to the motor.

There are still some unexplained things - there is a vacuum port on the
bottom of the controller that doesn't seem to do anything, but has a nice
gasket embedded in the plastic.  I still don't understand why there are so
many vacuum points in the main connection.  I have no idea how the AC is
triggered.  There's a spring inside the big channel that I can't explain.
 Probably some other stuff.  I didn't find as much vacuum stuff as I was
expecting; there was a bank of right-angle connectors, but that's all I
came across.  It may be there is some channel thing between those and the
armature that I haven't figured out how to open, yet.

Unfortunately while I was taking pictures my phone got full, so I don't
have many.  As I go through to grease, solder, and close it up I will try
to get more, in case someone else wants to try it some day

Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-08 Thread OK Don
Changing the coolant yearly and running the AC weekly during the winter
kept mine working the SLC until the engine died, and it sat for three or
four years while I rebuilt it. I bought a new unit at what I thought was
the borderline of theft shortly after I got the car - I think it lasted
five years before I let it sit too long.
They need regular exercise across the range of temps and clean coolant, if
you are going to try to keep one working.


On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 8:07 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 This link should tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the ACC
 II
 servo:  http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/servo

 These things have a couple of bad flaws.  First the plastic part is prone
 to
 cracking and leaking, especially with age.  Second there is a seal of the
 shaft that controls coolant flow which will fail allowing coolant and crud
 to hum up the gears and electrical connections under the top cover.  I
 don't
 know anyone who installed the unwired tools kit.  George Murphy sells
 rebuilt units with a metal chamber in place of the plastic one.  But, as
 far
 as I know, once they start to leak they are toast.




-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-08 Thread Scott Ritchey

Right.  It's a real shame that seal was designed in a way it couldn't be
replaced. I guess Chrysler's philosophy (planned obsolescence) in those days
wasn't what we would like to see in a Benz.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

Changing the coolant yearly and running the AC weekly during the winter
kept mine working the SLC until the engine died, and it sat for three or
four years while I rebuilt it. I bought a new unit at what I thought was
the borderline of theft shortly after I got the car - I think it lasted
five years before I let it sit too long.
They need regular exercise across the range of temps and clean coolant, if
you are going to try to keep one working.


On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 8:07 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 This link should tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the ACC
 II
 servo:  http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/servo

 These things have a couple of bad flaws.  First the plastic part is prone
 to
 cracking and leaking, especially with age.  Second there is a seal of the
 shaft that controls coolant flow which will fail allowing coolant and crud
 to hum up the gears and electrical connections under the top cover.  I
 don't
 know anyone who installed the unwired tools kit.  George Murphy sells
 rebuilt units with a metal chamber in place of the plastic one.  But, as
 far
 as I know, once they start to leak they are toast.




-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Tim Crone
I am cleaning up the 123, and one of the long-term issues is that the ACC
blob under the hood leaks coolant.  It is a slow leak, and I had bypassed
it for winter, but I figure I would like to fix it before I sell it. Plus,
it's a challenge that doesn't require me being outside while the kids are
sleeping. :)

At first I thought the gasket was bad, but then I realized one of the
screws couldn't be tightened - I guess the PO stripped it because it had
some old glue holding the screw in place.  I scraped that off, but now I'm
left with a long screw that doesn't have anything to grip, and the same
low-pressure leak.

1) Can I just shoot JB-Weld into the screw hole, then drill and tap it for
a slightly-narrower screw?  Is there a better way?  I would like to leave
the screw removable if at all possible.

2) The case of the top half (i.e. above the coolant section) is cracked.  I
am wondering if I can just put a band around it and cover it with epoxy, or
if I should try to source another blob.  I imagine the blob would be
expensive, unless I happen to get lucky in the junkyard - since this is
pre-sale cost is a serious factor.

3) How do you get the electrical parts out of the blob?  I can get to the
metal sheet, and the geared motor clearly moves the contacts around on some
traces, but I can't figure out how they inserted the electrical components
(and presumably vacuum etc.).  Since it looks like someone has repaired
this one, I am afraid of breaking it when those parts might still work. :)

Thanks,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Tim Crone wrote:


1) Can I just shoot JB-Weld into the screw hole, then drill and tap it for
a slightly-narrower screw?  Is there a better way?  I would like to leave
the screw removable if at all possible.


Would be simpler and stronger to tap it for a bigger screw.

Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Tim Crone
On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Tim Crone wrote:

  1) Can I just shoot JB-Weld into the screw hole, then drill and tap it for
 a slightly-narrower screw?  Is there a better way?  I would like to leave
 the screw removable if at all possible.


 Would be simpler and stronger to tap it for a bigger screw.


This is right at the edge, interesting idea though.  I will check how much
room I have when I get home, maybe I could get an english screw to fit.

Thanks,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the monovalve?
Or ??

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 10:50 AM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

  Tim Crone wrote:
 
   1) Can I just shoot JB-Weld into the screw hole, then drill and tap it
 for
  a slightly-narrWHAtr ower screw?  Is there a better way?  I would like
 to leave
  the screw removable if at all possible.
 
 
  Would be simpler and stronger to tap it for a bigger screw.
 

 This is right at the edge, interesting idea though.  I will check how much
 room I have when I get home, maybe I could get an english screw to fit.

 Thanks,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Dan Penoff
Probably describing the dreaded Chrysler servo.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 5, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the monovalve?
 Or ??
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Tim Crone
Yes, exactly.  Couldn't think of servo for some reason. :)
Thanks,
Tim



On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:25 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Probably describing the dreaded Chrysler servo.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 5, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the monovalve?
  Or ??
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Not in a 1987 car.

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:25 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Probably describing the dreaded Chrysler servo.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 5, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the monovalve?
  Or ??
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Tim Crone
On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.comwrote:

 Not in a 1987 car.


True, the '87 has different issues.  Though I don't think I mentioned it. :)

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
That would also assume I was paying attention.

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Not in a 1987 car.
 

 True, the '87 has different issues.  Though I don't think I mentioned it.
 :)

 Best,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Gary Hurst
python is still rebuilding those servos and putting it in a metal body or
at least they were a few months ago when i last sold one.  george murphy
has been selling those forever as his special aluminum bodied ones but they
really are everyone's special aluminum bodied ones and you can get them
from anyone selling parts.  if you want to buy one from me, i'll sell it
for 20 bucks less than whatever he sells them for, but they still suck.
there is also a kit to supplant the servo from unwired that also sucks, if
that is of greater interest

personally, as long as the servo is working, i'd just plug that leak by
whatever means necessary and hope for the best result as the other
solutions are expensive and generally unsatisfying as well.


On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 Yes, exactly.  Couldn't think of servo for some reason. :)
 Thanks,
 Tim



 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:25 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

  Probably describing the dreaded Chrysler servo.
 
  Dan
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
  On Aug 5, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
   What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the
 monovalve?
   Or ??
  
  
 
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*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars

*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Tim Crone
Thanks Gary, pretty sure new won't pay off.  I will probably cobble it
together as best I can, and list it in the known issues column.

Thanks,
Tim


On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 3:04 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 python is still rebuilding those servos and putting it in a metal body or
 at least they were a few months ago when i last sold one.  george murphy
 has been selling those forever as his special aluminum bodied ones but they
 really are everyone's special aluminum bodied ones and you can get them
 from anyone selling parts.  if you want to buy one from me, i'll sell it
 for 20 bucks less than whatever he sells them for, but they still suck.
 there is also a kit to supplant the servo from unwired that also sucks, if
 that is of greater interest

 personally, as long as the servo is working, i'd just plug that leak by
 whatever means necessary and hope for the best result as the other
 solutions are expensive and generally unsatisfying as well.


 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

  Yes, exactly.  Couldn't think of servo for some reason. :)
  Thanks,
  Tim
 
 
 
  On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:25 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
   Probably describing the dreaded Chrysler servo.
  
   Dan
  
   Sent from my iPad
  
   On Aug 5, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
What is an ACC blob?  Do you mean the aux. water pump or the
  monovalve?
Or ??
   
   
  
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 *
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Craig
On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:50:02 -0400 Andrew Strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 That would also assume I was paying attention.

I know that feeling!


Craig



 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:
 
  On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel
  astrasfo...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
   Not in a 1987 car.
  
 
  True, the '87 has different issues.  Though I don't think I mentioned
  it. :)
 
  Best,
  Tim
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Craig

--
Present:'95 E320Sebastian  117 kmi
'94 E420Oskar  127 kmi (awaiting parting out)
'82 240D/3.0Bluebell   267 kmi (leaking diesel from somewhere
in the engine compartment)
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc   Emma
'72 220D/8  Herman 186 kmi

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Aug 5, 2013 12:04 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:


 there is also a kit to supplant the
 servo from unwired that also sucks, if
 that is of greater interest


What's wrong with the Unwired Tools kit, besides the fact that it's way
overpriced for something that anyone with some electronics and fabrication
skill should be able to cobble together out of an Arduino and some aquarium
tubing?

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Rich Thomas
There is probably a fair amount of backward engineering of what it is 
doing and how.  The mechanics aren't much, but the program might be?  Or 
just to brute-force it might not be too hard.


--R


On 8/5/13 6:31 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Aug 5, 2013 12:04 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:


there is also a kit to supplant the
servo from unwired that also sucks, if
that is of greater interest


What's wrong with the Unwired Tools kit, besides the fact that it's way
overpriced for something that anyone with some electronics and fabrication
skill should be able to cobble together out of an Arduino and some aquarium
tubing?

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Allan Streib
Tim Crone bb...@crone.us writes:

 Yes, exactly.  Couldn't think of servo for some reason. :)

I patched up a cracked servo with JB Weld (the lower part, that are
nortorious for cracking).  Used a small laboratory-type spatula to work
the JB weld fully into the crack then smoothed off the surface.

A carved-down popsicle stick could probably also do the job.  I have not
really used it enough to tell if it'll hold, but it looks pretty good to
my eye.  I figured, it can't hurt anything.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Allan Streib
Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 What's wrong with the Unwired Tools kit, besides the fact that it's way
 overpriced for something that anyone with some electronics and fabrication
 skill should be able to cobble together out of an Arduino and some aquarium
 tubing?

I think the Unwired kit pre-dates the availability of cheap, flexible
microcontrollers like arduino.  Someone with motivation could proably
drastically undercut their price now.  But the hard part is figuring out
how all the different modes of operation work.  I think there's enough
documetation of the ACC online to be able to work it out, but it would
take some time and tinkering.  And the market for it is pretty tiny now
and will only get smaller.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] '77 300D ACC2 widget

2013-08-05 Thread Allan Streib
Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com writes:

 Not in a 1987 car.

Subject line says '77

Allan


-- 
Allan Streib

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