Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Fmiser
> Rich Thomas wrote:

> I'm thinking I should put some teflon tape on the bleeders to
> seal up those threads a bit and keep the air from getting in
> my bleed tube (using a Mityvac),

I use grease.   That also help keep the threads lubed so it
turns next time I need it to.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Peter Frederick
I would make sure the reservoir is completely full and bleed again --  
the back chamber is filled by overflowing the front one, and it's  
quite easy to have it go dry.


A MityVac works great, so long as you remember that you are going to  
pull air in the bleeder valves and won't ever get air free fluid.   
Once you get clean fluid out and there are no big air bubbles, it's  
full and free of air, you can ignore the stream if tiny bubbles  
leaking in the threads.  Big slugs of air, you have a leak or the  
reservoir is going empty on you.  I've chased that particular problem  
for ages once or twice.


The pedal, with the engine running, should have about an inch of free  
play, become firm quickly, and stay firm, with added pressure  
resulting in more braking effect with very little movement downward.   
A sinking pedal under light pressure, mysterious loss of fluid, no  
brakes unless you pump them, and excessive travel with less than  
normal braking power all indicate a bad master cylinder, usually from  
worn out seals on the back piston.


Check to make sure the rear pads are clean and move easily -- they  
get stuck much more readily than the fronts, and can give you goofy  
brakes, too.  Lack of wear on the rear rotors is a hint here.


Peter
On Oct 22, 2010, at 7:25 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN- 
ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:



Rich,

I suspect your bleeding method isn't working too well.

I have the "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir, if  
you'd like to
borrow it.  You'll need to make sure the two rubber sensor caps on  
top of

the reservoir are in good shape prior to pressurizing.

The "old school" way of two people working together, one pressuring  
via
pumping the brake pedal and the holding with the second opens/ 
closes the
bleed valve to allow fluid/air to escape works well but you risk  
destroying
the seals in the master cylinder if fluid changes have been  
neglected and
there is gunk beyond the normal range of travel that the seals hit  
when the

pedal sinks to the floor.

I used to use the gravity drain method, and just attach hose from  
bleeder to
a drain bottle or can and let physics pull the fluid out.  Slow,  
but safe

and effective.  Now I can do the job with MORE POWER!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes- 
boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 7:40 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

Yes, all 4 in the proper sequence, twice.  I'm thinking I should  
put some
teflon tape on the bleeders to seal up those threads a bit and keep  
the air
from getting in my bleed tube (using a Mityvac), though I don't  
think it is
going back into the calipers.  At first they were a bit mushy after  
I put on
the new caliper and filled it and bled it a bit, so I went around  
the car
again and then it was better, pretty much as it was before I  
started the

exercise.

I'll take a look at the bushing, but the pedal does not seem to  
have play in
it, just takes some travel to start brake engagement.  I guess they  
aren't

"touchy!"

--R

On 10/22/2010 7:21 AM, Rolf wrote:
 Check the bushing on the brake pedal where it meets the rod that  
goes
into the booster. If this is missing or deteriorated then you get  
more

travel before braking. Otherwise is sounds like you need to bleed
more. Did you bleed all 4?

-Rolf

On 10/22/2010 7:14 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

So I got the new caliper on and hooked up, and system bled as best I
could (there seems to be a lot of air leakage around the bleed
nipples) with new fluid.  The pedal feel is not a lot different from
before, still seems to have about an inch of travel before getting
much braking, and seems a bit soft though the brakes work OK.  Might
this be a master cylinder issue, or is that just the way they are?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Mitch Haley

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Rich,

I suspect your bleeding method isn't working too well.  


I have the "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir, if you'd like to
borrow it.  You'll need to make sure the two rubber sensor caps on top of
the reservoir are in good shape prior to pressurizing. 


If he has ABS, that might be more necessary than optional.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Rich,

I suspect your bleeding method isn't working too well.  

I have the "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir, if you'd like to
borrow it.  You'll need to make sure the two rubber sensor caps on top of
the reservoir are in good shape prior to pressurizing. 

The "old school" way of two people working together, one pressuring via
pumping the brake pedal and the holding with the second opens/closes the
bleed valve to allow fluid/air to escape works well but you risk destroying
the seals in the master cylinder if fluid changes have been neglected and
there is gunk beyond the normal range of travel that the seals hit when the
pedal sinks to the floor.

I used to use the gravity drain method, and just attach hose from bleeder to
a drain bottle or can and let physics pull the fluid out.  Slow, but safe
and effective.  Now I can do the job with MORE POWER!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 7:40 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

Yes, all 4 in the proper sequence, twice.  I'm thinking I should put some
teflon tape on the bleeders to seal up those threads a bit and keep the air
from getting in my bleed tube (using a Mityvac), though I don't think it is
going back into the calipers.  At first they were a bit mushy after I put on
the new caliper and filled it and bled it a bit, so I went around the car
again and then it was better, pretty much as it was before I started the
exercise.

I'll take a look at the bushing, but the pedal does not seem to have play in
it, just takes some travel to start brake engagement.  I guess they aren't
"touchy!"

--R

On 10/22/2010 7:21 AM, Rolf wrote:
>  Check the bushing on the brake pedal where it meets the rod that goes 
> into the booster. If this is missing or deteriorated then you get more 
> travel before braking. Otherwise is sounds like you need to bleed 
> more. Did you bleed all 4?
>
> -Rolf
>
> On 10/22/2010 7:14 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
>> So I got the new caliper on and hooked up, and system bled as best I 
>> could (there seems to be a lot of air leakage around the bleed
>> nipples) with new fluid.  The pedal feel is not a lot different from 
>> before, still seems to have about an inch of travel before getting 
>> much braking, and seems a bit soft though the brakes work OK.  Might 
>> this be a master cylinder issue, or is that just the way they are?
>>
>> --R
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
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>

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Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Rich Thomas
Yes, all 4 in the proper sequence, twice.  I'm thinking I should put 
some teflon tape on the bleeders to seal up those threads a bit and keep 
the air from getting in my bleed tube (using a Mityvac), though I don't 
think it is going back into the calipers.  At first they were a bit 
mushy after I put on the new caliper and filled it and bled it a bit, so 
I went around the car again and then it was better, pretty much as it 
was before I started the exercise.


I'll take a look at the bushing, but the pedal does not seem to have 
play in it, just takes some travel to start brake engagement.  I guess 
they aren't "touchy!"


--R

On 10/22/2010 7:21 AM, Rolf wrote:
 Check the bushing on the brake pedal where it meets the rod that goes 
into the booster. If this is missing or deteriorated then you get more 
travel before braking. Otherwise is sounds like you need to bleed 
more. Did you bleed all 4?


-Rolf

On 10/22/2010 7:14 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
So I got the new caliper on and hooked up, and system bled as best I 
could (there seems to be a lot of air leakage around the bleed 
nipples) with new fluid.  The pedal feel is not a lot different from 
before, still seems to have about an inch of travel before getting 
much braking, and seems a bit soft though the brakes work OK.  Might 
this be a master cylinder issue, or is that just the way they are?


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Rolf
 Check the bushing on the brake pedal where it meets the rod that goes 
into the booster. If this is missing or deteriorated then you get more 
travel before braking. Otherwise is sounds like you need to bleed more. 
Did you bleed all 4?


-Rolf

On 10/22/2010 7:14 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
So I got the new caliper on and hooked up, and system bled as best I 
could (there seems to be a lot of air leakage around the bleed 
nipples) with new fluid.  The pedal feel is not a lot different from 
before, still seems to have about an inch of travel before getting 
much braking, and seems a bit soft though the brakes work OK.  Might 
this be a master cylinder issue, or is that just the way they are?


--R

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[MBZ] Brakes, again (300SD)

2010-10-22 Thread Rich Thomas
So I got the new caliper on and hooked up, and system bled as best I 
could (there seems to be a lot of air leakage around the bleed nipples) 
with new fluid.  The pedal feel is not a lot different from before, 
still seems to have about an inch of travel before getting much braking, 
and seems a bit soft though the brakes work OK.  Might this be a master 
cylinder issue, or is that just the way they are?


--R

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