Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
andrew strasfogel wrote: I vote for a shorted electric radio antenna. Guess how I know! I was thinking about that as well, but the antenna was replaced maybe 9 months ago. Plus, the current drain was still present even with all fuses removed from the fuse block. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
I vote for a shorted electric radio antenna. Guess how I know! On 12/28/05, Barry Stark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Jim - > The test for a stuck servo is even easier, that is if the battery isn't > dead. Start your engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. Now turn > off > the engine and listen carefully to the servo. You should be able to hear > the > motor in the servo running as it moves to the "park" position. If you > don't > hear it running, it probably is stuck. Next test would be to pull out the > 2 > amp fuse for the servo as Mitch suggested, or if it is easier, unplug the > electrical connectors from the servo and see if the current draw goes > away. > Another way to check is to peek at the servo amplifier. If it looks like a > crispy critter it is almost surely a stuck servo. > > Barry > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Ritchey > Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:11 PM > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD > > > Jim > > The alternator is easy to test. Just pull the connector from the back of > the alternator and see if the current drain stops. By the way, an > internal > leak can kill the battery but it would not register on your ammeter. The > alternator is the most likely cause (shorted diode(s)) in my experience. > The reported 320ma leak should not kill a good battery in 8 hrs (only a > few > amp-hours) but if you have a bad diode, you are not getting much recharge > while driving ... so the battery was probably low. > > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
I often wonder how old these rubber part are when we buy them. Rubber ages on the shelve just as much as in service. I bought some gaiters (fork spring bellows) for my T100. They split putting them on. -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D On 12/28/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I put a "new" set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the > factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with > the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting > the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the "new" mounts. When I > relented and checked them, one was completely broken. >
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
tore up motor mounts? Dont guess I have heard about that one. John Ervine wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways. Which is a heckuva great price, I might add! But I've long since stopped being penny-wise and pound-foolish when it comes to my cars. I like driving my cars, and I like fixing things that break - I just don't like repeating myself every few months. You know, like with the set of motor mounts that I tore up in 8,000 miles. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
No - the rubber didn't sqeeze out and away like that - the center metal part just pushed straight down. On 12/28/05, John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OK Don wrote: > > I put a "new" set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the > > factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with > > the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting > > the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the "new" mounts. When I > > relented and checked them, one was completely broken. > > Did it look as bad as the one on the left? > > http://www.mbdiesel.net/car_repair_photos/300TD/MotorMounts/motormount1.jpg > http://www.mbdiesel.net/car_repair_photos/300TD/MotorMounts/motormount2.jpg > > -- > John L. Ervine > 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi > 1980 300TD 170+kmi > 1980 300SD 277+kmi > 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC The FSM created the Diesel Benz http://www.venganza.org/
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
OK Don wrote: I put a "new" set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the "new" mounts. When I relented and checked them, one was completely broken. Did it look as bad as the one on the left? http://www.mbdiesel.net/car_repair_photos/300TD/MotorMounts/motormount1.jpg http://www.mbdiesel.net/car_repair_photos/300TD/MotorMounts/motormount2.jpg -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
I put a "new" set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the "new" mounts. When I relented and checked them, one was completely broken. On 12/28/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 20:47:57 -0500 John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > You know, like with the set of motor mounts that I tore up in 8,000 > > miles. > > So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles? > > > Craig -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC The FSM created the Diesel Benz http://www.venganza.org/
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
Craig McCluskey wrote: So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles? By driving like a diesel-mad lunatic. For some examples: I broke the rear end loose on the wagon at approximately 85mph with a slightly more abrupt than usual lane change. I'm probably 60-75% through the brake pads in the wagon that I installed - you guessed it - 8,000 miles ago. I drive our 300SD in S simply because I love fishtailing when turning at stoplights when the car shifts into 2nd. I've worn the outer edge off of all the tires on all the cars from taking turns at excessive rates of speed and grinding the tread off on the fenderwell. I'm admittedly *very* hard on cars. That's another reason why I don't cheap out on repairs. I anticipate a front suspension rebuild - including Bilstein heavy duties - lasting 50kmi, maybe 75kmi if I'm lucky, before the play and slop is so severe that I can't stand it and drop the money and do it all again. I buy 80kmi rated tires, and - if I'm lucky - will see half that tread life out of them. The world is my autocross. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 20:47:57 -0500 John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You know, like with the set of motor mounts that I tore up in 8,000 > miles. So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles? Craig
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways. Which is a heckuva great price, I might add! But I've long since stopped being penny-wise and pound-foolish when it comes to my cars. I like driving my cars, and I like fixing things that break - I just don't like repeating myself every few months. You know, like with the set of motor mounts that I tore up in 8,000 miles. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways. John Ervine wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though. Well, I'd rather go with a properly rebuild unit ($$) or the digital replacement ($$$), versus a used good unit ($). Dirt cheap repairs only get you so far in these cars, and oftentimes you pay for your frugalness later on. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
If you are going to go that route, rusty can get them(cheaper I do believe) than murphy. Jim Cathey wrote: I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though. Doesn't George Murphy rebuild these? There is a warrantee on them, too. Not cheap, of course. The state of the ACC servo has a very noticeable effect on the value of the cars that contain them, so far I've avoided owning anything that has one in it. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though. Well, I'd rather go with a properly rebuild unit ($$) or the digital replacement ($$$), versus a used good unit ($). Dirt cheap repairs only get you so far in these cars, and oftentimes you pay for your frugalness later on. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though. Doesn't George Murphy rebuild these? There is a warrantee on them, too. Not cheap, of course. The state of the ACC servo has a very noticeable effect on the value of the cars that contain them, so far I've avoided owning anything that has one in it. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though. John Ervine wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Now its time to get a new one. Have fun. And what was the line on your buddy that rebuilds them? Drop me an e-mail off-list with his info and particulars. I'm weighing my various options - rebuild, junkyard, or the aftermarket digital replacement jobby... -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Now its time to get a new one. Have fun. And what was the line on your buddy that rebuilds them? Drop me an e-mail off-list with his info and particulars. I'm weighing my various options - rebuild, junkyard, or the aftermarket digital replacement jobby... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!
Now its time to get a new one. Have fun. John Ervine wrote: All, Upon further testing, I've determined that the source of my excessive current draw is the ACC servo circuit. Following my usual troubleshooting steps of most expensive to least expensive, pulling the in-line fuse under the relay block cover resulted in my 320mA draw downgrading itself to a ~4mA pulse from the clock in the dash. Mitch wins the e-cookie. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim - The test for a stuck servo is even easier, that is if the battery isn't dead. Start your engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. Now turn off the engine and listen carefully to the servo. You should be able to hear the motor in the servo running as it moves to the "park" position. If you don't hear it running, it probably is stuck. Next test would be to pull out the 2 amp fuse for the servo as Mitch suggested, or if it is easier, unplug the electrical connectors from the servo and see if the current draw goes away. Another way to check is to peek at the servo amplifier. If it looks like a crispy critter it is almost surely a stuck servo. Barry -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Ritchey Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD Jim The alternator is easy to test. Just pull the connector from the back of the alternator and see if the current drain stops. By the way, an internal leak can kill the battery but it would not register on your ammeter. The alternator is the most likely cause (shorted diode(s)) in my experience. The reported 320ma leak should not kill a good battery in 8 hrs (only a few amp-hours) but if you have a bad diode, you are not getting much recharge while driving ... so the battery was probably low.
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim The alternator is easy to test. Just pull the connector from the back of the alternator and see if the current drain stops. By the way, an internal leak can kill the battery but it would not register on your ammeter. The alternator is the most likely cause (shorted diode(s)) in my experience. The reported 320ma leak should not kill a good battery in 8 hrs (only a few amp-hours) but if you have a bad diode, you are not getting much recharge while driving ... so the battery was probably low. Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Ervine Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:18 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD Jim Cathey wrote: > I vote alternator as I don't know how you would be measuring 320mA > for an _internal_ battery short (a common failure mode), so my best > guess is a bad diode in the alternator. This is a nice double whammy > as it also prevents the alternator from charging properly. Glow plug > relay is also separately fused. Alternator and GP relay are both > easy to unplug, leaving only the starter as a final suspect. I unplugged the harness for the GP relay, and the current draw did not change, so I think that rules that out. The alternator still charges the battery just fine, though. Tomorrow afternoon's first troubleshooting step will be to remove the connection on the alternator. > You might also check for auxiliary fuses, you could have missed some. > Various MB's can have a basket-load of them, particularly the ones > in the 70's. I'll consult the ETM further to check on this. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Kevin wrote: Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to the guy kaleb posted). The price doesn't bother me - it's the fact that it could be sold for considerably less than a rebuilt servo, but isn't. Oh well, supply and demand, capitalism, etc... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 10:00:48PM -0500, John Ervine wrote: > Guess it could be time to consider replacing the servo with one of those > new-fangled digital models... Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to the guy kaleb posted). K
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim Cathey wrote: The alternator will still charge with a bad diode, but it won't do it as well as it should. However, an unremoved auxiliary fuse for the wretched Chrysler ACC is an even more likely suspect. I'd start there first, actually. These things are notorious for freezing up and drawing current 24x7. To top it all off, repair is expensive! I'll give it a check tomorrow and report back with my findings. Everything is relatively easy to check: Dead battery tomorrow morning, despite being disconnected? Internal short of battery. Remove alternator harness and draw goes away? Bad diode in alternator. Disconnect ACC fuse and draw goes away? Bad servo. All of the above and draw still exists? Bum starter. Guess it could be time to consider replacing the servo with one of those new-fangled digital models... Thanks again, guys! -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
The alternator still charges the battery just fine, though. Tomorrow afternoon's first troubleshooting step will be to remove the connection on the alternator. The alternator will still charge with a bad diode, but it won't do it as well as it should. However, an unremoved auxiliary fuse for the wretched Chrysler ACC is an even more likely suspect. I'd start there first, actually. These things are notorious for freezing up and drawing current 24x7. To top it all off, repair is expensive! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim Cathey wrote: Isn't the light _switch_ also unfused? Good question. I know the components on it are, but don't know if the switch itself is... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim Cathey wrote: I vote alternator as I don't know how you would be measuring 320mA for an _internal_ battery short (a common failure mode), so my best guess is a bad diode in the alternator. This is a nice double whammy as it also prevents the alternator from charging properly. Glow plug relay is also separately fused. Alternator and GP relay are both easy to unplug, leaving only the starter as a final suspect. I unplugged the harness for the GP relay, and the current draw did not change, so I think that rules that out. The alternator still charges the battery just fine, though. Tomorrow afternoon's first troubleshooting step will be to remove the connection on the alternator. You might also check for auxiliary fuses, you could have missed some. Various MB's can have a basket-load of them, particularly the ones in the 70's. I'll consult the ETM further to check on this. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Mitch Haley wrote: There was an inline fuse near the main fusebox that powered the climate control servo. Pulled that fuse and the battery drain went away, but the CC was still dead. I suspect your 1980 wagon may have the same problem if you have the servo system and not the later monovalve system. Yeah, that fuse is near the realy block in front of the fuse box. I should've tried to unplug that while the light was still good, but didn't. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Am I missing any other unfused sources? Isn't the light _switch_ also unfused? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Kevin wrote: > > On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 08:34:12PM -0500, John Ervine wrote: > > What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. My 1980 300SD has the Chrysler climate control (as featured on the 1972 Chrysler Imperial). When I bought my car, the servo was stuck and would not go into park when I shut the car down. Made it crank kind of slow after sitting overnight. After I drove the car home, I parked it for three days and the battery was dead (permanently, it was a 7 year old Autozone and that was the last straw as far as it was concerned). The problem was a ~400mA draw. There was an inline fuse near the main fusebox that powered the climate control servo. Pulled that fuse and the battery drain went away, but the CC was still dead. I suspect your 1980 wagon may have the same problem if you have the servo system and not the later monovalve system.
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. That tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the top of my head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery (only a few months old, but Autozone Duralast brand and severely abused with a recent bout of poor charging from a bum alternator), starter (8 months old), or alternator I vote alternator as I don't know how you would be measuring 320mA for an _internal_ battery short (a common failure mode), so my best guess is a bad diode in the alternator. This is a nice double whammy as it also prevents the alternator from charging properly. Glow plug relay is also separately fused. Alternator and GP relay are both easy to unplug, leaving only the starter as a final suspect. You might also check for auxiliary fuses, you could have missed some. Various MB's can have a basket-load of them, particularly the ones in the 70's. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 08:34:12PM -0500, John Ervine wrote: > What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. That > tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the top of my > head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery (only a > few months old, but Autozone Duralast brand and severely abused with a recent > bout of poor charging from a bum alternator), starter (8 months old), or > alternator (swiped from the 240D to keep the 300TD on the road, Bosch > rebuild maybe 3 years old). Stuck glow plug relay would draw more than that, so I think you've got it narrowed down. I'm no EE, but I'd venture to guess that 320mA over seven hours won't kill as big of a battery as a 123 should have. My electric fridge pulls way more than that and will run off the jeep's battery AND start the truck effortlessly after four hours, and the radios and scanner in the crown vic only get shut off by the battery buddy if I work late and don't take a lunch, and I'm fairly certain they draw way more than 320 mA as well. > Am I missing any other unfused sources? I ran out of daylight today, so I > just left the negative terminal disconnected. Obviously, if I'm out of juice > tomorrow morning, the battery is my prime suspect, but I'd like to know if > I'm overlooking any other unfused potential power drains so that I can speed > troubleshooting tomorrow afternoon. Battery or alternator would be my guess, but I'd suspect the battery before the alternator. Voltmeter would tell you quickly while cranking if the battery's gone or not. K
Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Alternator? Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Ervine Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 8:34 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD Apparently our '80 300TD is unhappy that I opted to take the Euro 280S out for the weekend trip to visit with family, and is throwing a bit of a fit. This morning, I came down to the car and opened the door and had an extremely dim front cabin light. Uh oh, I think to myself, and - you guessed it - not enough juice to turn the starter. I broke out the jumper cables and fired up the 280S to give the wagon a jump, and everything was golden and I got to work just fine. 7 hours into my workday, I went out to see if things were as bad as they seemed, and my fears were confirmed - dead as a doornail again. An hour later, I grabbed a jump to get her started, and made off for home. Once home, out came the multitester and the tools. What I found was that with the ignition off, I had current across the aux fan circuit (fuse 15, I think), and the clock/hazard/whatever else circuit (fuse 4, which is also where the aftermarket radio memory is supplied). That all seems normal. What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. That tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the top of my head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery (only a few months old, but Autozone Duralast brand and severely abused with a recent bout of poor charging from a bum alternator), starter (8 months old), or alternator (swiped from the 240D to keep the 300TD on the road, Bosch rebuild maybe 3 years old). Am I missing any other unfused sources? I ran out of daylight today, so I just left the negative terminal disconnected. Obviously, if I'm out of juice tomorrow morning, the battery is my prime suspect, but I'd like to know if I'm overlooking any other unfused potential power drains so that I can speed troubleshooting tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again, listers! -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi 1980 300TD 170+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
