[meteorite-list] Reverse Electrolysis (Electrolitic Reduction)

2010-12-08 Thread Greg Hupe

Dear List,

Thank You all who emailed me their experiences and experiments with  
the Electrolitic Refuction process with iron meteorites. It looks like  
I need to make just one change in my 'current' setup that I use for  
shipwreck artifacts, basically not using copper wire to wrap the  
meteorite with.


Since I will be running the process on a couple complete Mounionalusta  
stones it will take longer than slices so it will be interesting to  
see if it helps to keep them whole for the process or not. After the  
process is complete, I will keep one whole and the other will be cut  
then compare the stability of them over time.


Best Regards,
Greg Hupe
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[meteorite-list] Reverse Electrolysis [was: List of known Rusters?

2010-12-07 Thread Greg Hupe

Hello Concerned Iron Owners,

Has anyone tried 'Reverse Electrolysis' on an iron or pallasite? I  
conserved a batch on shipwreck cannon balls that had been in the ocean  
for over 200 years. I ran them for two years then brushed 'Ospho' on  
them and then flat black paint, not a speck of rust one year after  
treatment conclusion. Obviously we wouldn't want to use the Ospho or  
paint but think I will try one of my complete Mounionalusta stones and  
see what results I get after a year of Reverse Electrolysis. If  
someone has tried this method, please let me know... It will be  
interesting to see if it works since it will be submersed in fresh  
water with an electrolite to draw any rust-causing minerals out of the  
metal.


Best Regards,
Greg Hupe

On Dec 7, 2010, at 11:11 AM, Bob King  wrote:


Hi everyone,
I've had great luck with the Campos from Bob Cucchiara (meteorite
madness on eBay). I hand them out all the time to students. The only
preservation I use is a spray for guns called Barricade available at
Gander Mt. outdoors stores. It works well. I also still have an intact
Nantan individual I got long ago from list member Walter Branch. A
rarity like that must be worth millions. As for some others:
* Dronino - can be both good and bad. I've got some that are in a
hurry to return to the Earth and a couple that are perfect.
* Canyon Diablo individuals - slow flaking
* Muonionalusta - I've yet to find a stable slice out there
* Gibeon - I've got one impossible slice and a couple of very stable  
ones

* Mont Dieu - good but needs to be sprayed regularly
* Lueders - no problems
* Saint Aubin - a ruster


Then there are the chondrites that get tears in their eyes (bleed).
Dhofar 10 comes to mind.

Best wishes,
Bob
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[meteorite-list] reverse electrolysis

2009-12-05 Thread Jerry Flaherty

List,
I have a large Campo del Cielo on which I'd like to try reverse 
electrolysis. It's one "hurtin" piece that I'd be willing to sacrifice if 
things don't go well, so I'd appreciate a repeat of the directions

Thanks in advance
Jerry Flaherty 


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[meteorite-list] Reverse Electrolysis

2009-09-28 Thread Greg Hupe

Hi Mike,

The process you have performed is called "Reverse Electrolysis". It is 
typically used to conserve iron or other metallic objects by removing salts 
or other corrosive elements that have penetrated the object. It is most 
commonly used to conserve iron shipwreck objects found in salt water.


Best regards,
Greg


Greg Hupe
The Hupe Collection
NaturesVault (eBay)
gmh...@htn.net
www.LunarRock.com
IMCA 3163

Click here for my current eBay auctions: 
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZnaturesvault




- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Murray" 

To: 
Cc: "Meteorite-list" 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Flow lines on the INSIDE! Not. (cleaning 
ironsfollow-up)




Hi All,
I put my little suspect iron in a solution of water and calcium 
carbonate.  I actually wrapped it loosely with tinfoil and sat that  down 
in the mixture.  I got out my trusty battery charger and  connected the 
red lead to a sacrificial piece of junk strap metal and  sat that down 
along one side of the plastic bowl.  I connected the  black lead to the 
tinfoil.  Actually clamping it against the side of  the bowl same as I did 
the piece of strap on the other side of the  bowl.  Anyway, I poured in a 
couple teaspoons cleanser and swished it  around with a plastic spoon so 
it was dissolved good.  Plugged in the  charger and watched as a steady 
stream of bubbles headed from the  tinfoil towards the sacrificial anode 
strap.  After about two hours of  cooking, I can now see what I have.  A 
really sculptured, bright  chrome something that is as hard or harder than 
tool steel (don't ask  how I know that last bit) and shaped like a 
stretched out version of  Willamette.  I did a nickel test and think now 
with all I see that it  might need to go to someone to get checked further 
if I want to know  for sure.  Anyway, the process worked better than I was 
expecting.   Doesn't seem to be dangerous to do.  I put the charger on 
12V, 6 amp  scale.   I left the solution outside when it was cooking.  I 
treated  my specimen to a bath in penetrating oil when I had finished 
cleaning  it.  One more interesting tidbit, looks like after the red rust 
was  removed, left on the suspect rock is a very thin black coating in 
quite a few places, mostly in the low spots.  If that is magnetite  then I 
answered my own question, no, the process doesn't remove the  oxide, only 
the red rust.  My little experiment worked well enough for  my purposes, 
but hopefully no one with a stone of any value will  follow my lead.  I 
would hate to think I inspired someone to ruin a  valuable specimen.


Mike in CO



On Sep 28, 2009, at 1:52 PM, countde...@earthlink.net wrote:


Hi Jason, Piper, Mike and List,

Gathering my tattered cloak up to cover myself, I must say that even  I, 
with less than a year in the game, wouldn't be so ignorant as to  say I 
saw flow lines on the INSIDE of a specimen. What I said.. and  did see.. 
were..and I will be a bit more descriptive here...nearly  parallel, but 
sinuous, thin, rounded, iron lines orientated in one  direction on the 
outside surface of a formerly concreted and rusted  Nantan that I had 
blasted the crap out of and wirebrushed. It looks  lovely. Maybe I should 
put it eBay and call it a 100% crusted and  oriented individual...:o}


Guido

-Original Message-

From: Jason Utas 
Sent: Sep 28, 2009 4:45 AM
To: Meteorite-list 
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] "flow lines" on weathered irons (was 
"question on cleaning irons")


Hello Piper,
Of course - hence the differential weathering rates of Campos ("old"
versus "new"), to name one of many examples.
Perhaps the best example of such weathering can be seen on irons from
Gibeon.  I unfortunately don't have a copy of Buchwald here, but if
anyone does have access to the second volume, if they could flip
through the Gibeon section, they would find a photograph of a
beautiful mass of Gibeon (I forget the name of the mass) on display  in
a museum in Germany.  It displays beautiful fusion crust and
smooth-edged, shallow regmaglypts - it looks as fresh as many  Sikhotes
on the market today.  Compare it to many of the larger Gibeons on  ebay
today and you'll see little-to-no resemblance.  If anyone out there
can scan a picture of said page, I'd be much obliged.  It really is a
good example.
There are, however, a few common irons which I would never expect to
have fusion crust: Canyon Diablo, Toluca, Odessa, and Nantan, to name
a few.  I've seen hundreds, if not thousands of examples of each, and
I have never seen a single one of any of them that came close to  being
"fresh" enough to retain a trace of fusion crust.
Nantan is one of the most corroded and least stable iron meteorites I
have ever known, though Dronino's turning out to be about as bad.
People need to learn more in order to clear up the misconception that
all meteorites show signs of a hot, violent entry through the
atm