from:"Chad Rebuck"

Re: [mk2-16v] 88 16V on Bring A Trailer

2017-02-07 Thread Chad Rebuck

I may post my car on there if possible.  vwvortex and craigslist have't
been successful yet.  I'm at $3800 and planned to keep dropping the price
until it sells.

https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/5970370792.html

On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 12:39 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

> http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-volkswagen-golf-gti-16v/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
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RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

2016-12-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

Isn't that plastic wiring connector piece removable? And for a thin wrench
I would just buy a cheaper one at Harbor Freight and grind it down but I
don't recall using anything special either. I do remember it was a pain to
get those banjo bolts loose though.

On Dec 27, 2016 11:55 AM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot"
> socket on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I
> replaced both the pumps on my '92, but don't recall which tools were
> required, which usually means it wasn't a big deal.
>
> On Dec 27, 2016 08:46, Larry Velez  wrote:
>
> This slim adjustable wrench was pretty much useless,   they don’t fit
> under the plastic piece that holds the wiring connector.   I ended up using
> locking pliers on the already destroyed banjo tube but would rather have a
> tool that actually fits in here for re-assembly.  I’ll keep looking for
> long thin open end wrenches.
>
> (this is my old one and I have a new pump and will be ordering a new check
> valve.  Just wanted to clean all this old stuff up and keep them as spares
> for future use if needed in a bind.)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* Larry Velez
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:04 PM
> *To:* 'mk2-16v@googlegroups.com' 
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
>
>
>
> Just spoke to AutoHauz,  they tell me that 1583386514 is the correct part
> number and while it looks like the one with the washer is also correct –
> they could not confirm that in their system as compatible with a 91 GTI 16V.
>
>
>
> Maybe you have a different year?
>
>
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* Larry Velez
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:00 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
>
>
>
> Thanks for the part number confirmation Steven.  I will double check with
> AutohauzAZ what the difference is between 1583386514 and 1587010532 – it is
> possible they are the same part but one comes with washers.
>
>
>
> I also ordered this thin wrench for getting this damn thing off:
> https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8SWCB-Adjustable-
> WideAzz-Opening/dp/B00VBPY91O/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Steven Arguello
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 11:39 AM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
>
>
>
> This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if
> it's the right one.
>
>
> 11587010532Fuel Pump Check Valve
> 171044Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet
>
>
> On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
>
> Hey 16Vers,
>
>
>
> Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for
> a 91 GTI 16V?
>
> Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.
>
> While I am at it,  what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is
> obscured by the plastic housing?  A narrow adjustable wrench or something
> better?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Larry
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] SparkPlug tool fail

2016-11-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

There are locking extensions as well.  I have one of those I purchased due
to the sockets getting stuck on the plugs in my 16v.

On Nov 27, 2016 11:47 AM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the
> inside of the socket that belongs to the rubber piece. Thoroughly clean the
> inside of the socket with brake cleaner first and let it dry. Put the
> socket firmly on to the plug/rubber piece and let it cure for a while.
> On the extension problem, the detent balls tend to weaken over time/use. I
> used to replace my Craftsman extensions every few years, usually after
> experiencing problems with removing plugs from my 16V.
> There are spark plug sockets available from some of the specialty tool
> manufacturers that work better than the ones that use the rubber inserts. I
> had SK plug sockets which were better than Craftsman.
> I just saw some magnetic plug sockets available on eBay, which might be
> worth a try.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Nov 27, 2016 08:19, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
>
>> Hey 16vers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Yesterday I spent some time on my 16V’s never ending journey to revival.
>> With the help of a new local friend (who has four 16V Scirrocos) we
>> reinstalled the restored main fuel pump and McGuyvered transfer pump.  Two
>> nights ago I removed the spark plugs and poured a cap full of new engine
>> oil down the plug holes so the engine would not restart dry when we finally
>> tried to start it.  Unfortunately yesterday when finally reinstalling the
>> spark plugs,  the rubber boot for the spark plug removal socket stayed on
>> the plug and after 30 minutes of trying to remove it – we were defeated.
>>
>>
>>
>> So close yet so far,  we were at the final two steps before trying to
>> start the engine:  reinstall spark plugs and add fresh gasoline…
>>
>>
>>
>> Clearly the Craftman 5/8” (Part #43324)  spark plug removal tool is not
>> of high quality.  I have snap-on 11/16” spark plug removal tool (S9727K)
>> which seems of higher quality.   I will be ordering a snapon 5/8” spark
>> plug tool and throwing my two other 5/8” plug sockets in the trash.
>>
>>
>>
>> So now my question – any ideas on how to get the rubber piece out?   The
>> spark plug tool won’t grab the plug to screw it out and won’t hold onto the
>> rubber to pull it out.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am thinking glue might work but I am also afraid of getting the socket
>> stuck down there – any tricks to get the socket to stick to the
>> extension?   Does anyone have an extension welded onto the socket to avoid
>> the socket getting stuck down there?
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas would be welcome.
>>
>> Pictures of incident:  https://goo.gl/photos/AqU6SiPWRHewd3Np9
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> 91 GTI 16V
>>
>>
>>
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[mk2-16v] wheel dollys

2016-07-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

I'm looking for a way to move/rotate my 16v gli around in my garage to
store and work on it.  Came across these wheel dollys on amazon that have
mostly good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Pentagon-Tools-5060-Tire-Skates/dp/B000UAGDTC/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

The less expensive ones from harbor freight or other similar stores have
very bad reviews from what I saw.

I no longer have my vw registered or insured so I'm getting closer to
parting with it.  If you know someone who wants a 16v turbo gli I've got
one that will be going on craigslist and vwvortex soon I think.  It isn't a
perfect looking car (ok, quite far from it) but it sure does run well!

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[mk2-16v] vin report request

2016-04-18 Thread Chad Rebuck

My dad is asking if I can provide a vin report on this car.  I know it has
a rebuilt title and it was in an accident.  Anyone out there have access to
run these reports?

ford fiesta st vin
3fadp4gx6fm149578

Thanks.

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Chad Rebuck

I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake
manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no
good. You able to send any picture?
On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold
> made the car act this way?
>
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
> held by bolts and gasket.
>
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
> the car like that.
>
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort
> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went
> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole
> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic
>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so
>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing
>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>&

[mk2-16v] deal on mk2 parts

2016-03-09 Thread Chad Rebuck

I got an email from Rock Auto today about closeout inventory for 1990 vw
jetta parts.  Lots of stuff available.  Oil filters such as wix brand which
are highly regarded for quality are only 1.50. I probably shouldn't share
the link before I buy some but I think my car is going to go up for sale
before I get around to the next oil change :)

Wholesaler closeouts for your 1990 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA

:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1283262=wc=en=true

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Chad Rebuck

Good to know injector cleaning is available, but lets not mislead him. The
injectors are not the problem here.  His car was running just weeks
earlier.

Pull the distributor cap to make sure there is nothing broken that would
stop the spark from getting to the plugs.  Remove all spark plugs and check
for spark at the plugs (pull fuse for the fuel pump first).

Spark ok?  Put all plugs back in place then spray some starter fluid or gas
into the intake manifold.  Does car run for a brief moment?

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 1:15 PM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
>
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
> locating tooth?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
>
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
>
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough r

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
locating tooth?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back
>> in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and
>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>
>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
>> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
>> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
>> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>>
>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>>
>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
>> cross my fingers.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which
>>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed
>>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor
>>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode",
>>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the
>>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a
>>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce
>>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I
>>> acquired over the years. 
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
>>>> apart, after this incident.
>>>>
>>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this
>>>> whole time :).
>>>>
>>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
>>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>>>
>>>> --
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running car
> possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>
> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
> cross my fingers.
>
> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which
>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed
>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor
>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode",
>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the
>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a
>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce
>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I
>> acquired over the years. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
>>> apart, after this incident.
>>>
>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
>>> time :).
>>>
>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>>
>>> --
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

It's probably going to turn out to be something very basic. Maybe the spark
plug wires are mixed up a little bit? The chip should not matter just to
get the engine up and running the chip only fine tunes the timing and the
fuel for a little bit more power. You could do a compression check to be
certain nothing is going wrong there. I'd focus on that rushing air sound
you said you heard.
On Feb 27, 2016 8:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i did use the same oil pump there was no debris?  i cleaned it up and
> tested and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay
> and built pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?
>
> this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me?  a
> tooth off the belt is going to send marks somewhere off.  i put a ratchet
> on crank bolt and turn over and use a screwdriver in inspection hole to get
> 0 lined up perfect.  cam marks in and out line up.
>
> also before i took things apart adjustable cam sprocket was at stock
> position with keyway and flywheel also lined up so i assumed no head
> shaving from beginning.
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
do better if you held the throttle open.
On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
> experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
> you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
> experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
> Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while
> running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing.
> Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got, I
> would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning
> with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly
> basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't
> want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be
> factory standard parts.
> I wish you luck!
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put
>> what i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back
>> on the car.
>>
>> verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a
>> dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear
>> with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no
>> loading up of slack like the other setup.
>>
>> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put
>> the distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i
>> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air
>> escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the
>> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i
>> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was
>> chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to
>> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little
>> engine shake.
>>
>> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car
>> screams up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the
>> pedal wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later
>> the rpms dropped and the car dies.
>>
>> i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables
>> could be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or
>> something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors
>> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no
>> adjustments on this cars throttle body.
>>
>> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup
>> since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system
>>> with a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be
>>> some sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the
>>> case of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm
>>> keeps the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over
>>> time, so on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain.
>>> As I recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago,
>>> and they were still readily available.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
 half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is
 at.  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about
 the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i
 assume the slack is also present turning the other way.



 On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
 wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up,
> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth
> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.
>
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:
>
> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so
> the marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks
> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between
> the cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Chad Rebuck

On my first 16-valve I also had trouble with my cams trying to get them
lined up. I just thought the engine got weaker in the upper right range
over time but the guy who bought it from me had the cams checked out and
they were off by the slightest amount. I spent too much time trying to make
sure they were perfect and it turned out they were not.  I don't know if I
would try if there are no marks on the cams to begin with. That sounds
difficult.
On Feb 13, 2016 6:02 PM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> Yikes!  No orientation marks on the cams at all? At this point, I would
> find a set of new or closely inspected by someone knowledgeable about cams
> in general used cams, buy a new chain, and follow to the letter the
> installation instructions contained in the Bentley manual. And get a new
> timing belt and tensioner, just so you don't have to mess with the whole
> cam thing anytime soon. You said you are in California. Where? I am in El
> Cajon, and would be willing to help you out if you're close enough.
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 13, 2016 14:41, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
>> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
>> touch when not parallel.
>>
>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the
>> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the
>> cam gears is not perfect.
>>
>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>
>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>
>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>
>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and
>> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each
>> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>
>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>
>>
>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.
>>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of
>> these motors up close.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:52:22 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
>>> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
>>> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
 im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

 this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
 with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like
 if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was
 running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im
 scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.

 i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
 pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
 but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
 cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
 off.



 On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?
> In the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com

Re: [mk2-16v] Impact of wheel weight on acceleration

2016-01-14 Thread Chad Rebuck

I don't know if you would say the impact of the tire weight varies based on
gear.  The acceleration benefits with lighter weight wheels/tires are
greater the faster they are accelerating.  In the same way, a lower weight
flywheel, pulley,or other rotating piece would provide more benefit when
the engine rpm is changing quickly, so lower gears are where the benefits
would be most noticeable.

Maybe we are saying the same thing?  I spent too much time thinking about
this already :)

On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 12:04 PM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Seems like each gear would have different gains on wheel weight reduction
> so it would depend on what your end goal is but generally less unspring
> weight seems to be “better” (and more expensive per size)
>
>
>
> Rotational Inertia - Equivalent Mass
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR3nVx1aaTo
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 14, 2016 11:43 AM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Impact of wheel weight on acceleration
>
>
>
> Back when I was building my '92 GTI 16V, I chose BBS RC 16x7.5 wheels
> because they were the lightest wheels available at the time. I understood
> the physics involved, as in the benefits of lower unsprung weight, less
> rotational weight, etc. All these aspects greatly benefit handling,
> braking, and acceleration. Not to mention I always loved the look of that
> style of wheel. They are reminiscent of the BBS 3 piece wheels that were
> used on the old Porsche RSR race cars from the early seventies, and
> continued to be used by Porsche and BMW for years on their race cars.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Jan 13, 2016 19:53, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I had never really seen a test like this done.  The impact on acceleration
> is more than I would expect.
>
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[mk2-16v] turn signal bad connection

2015-12-26 Thread Chad Rebuck

My turn signal switch doesn't make good contact sometimes in the
upward/right direction.  I can move the switch back and forth to get it
working, but I should probably have a look to see if it the contacts can be
cleaned up.  Is there much that can be accessed without taking the turn
signal assembly out completely?

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Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

2015-12-24 Thread Chad Rebuck

One of our cars is a Focus Wagon with the ztec 16v engine.  It can haul
quite a bit of stuff especially when the rear seats are folded flat. In
addition to that I have a trailer hitch on two of our cars for towing a 4x8
harbor freight folding trailer.  The trailer folds up and is stored in my
garage out of the way when not in use.  It will carry 1000 pounds easily.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html

On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 11:48 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:

> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all
> our cars are small.
>
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to
> take it to the dump for me.
>
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack
> on it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large
> item on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be
> wasted space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit
> anything inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room
> nor desire to own a pick up truck.
>
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily
> is an Audi B5 A4).
>
> -Larry
>
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread

2015-12-12 Thread Chad Rebuck

I wasn't going to reply until I saw someone else using Rotella t6. I use
Pennzoil synchromesh in the transmission.
On Dec 12, 2015 6:50 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v" 
wrote:

> All my cars now get Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.  O'Reillys has the gallon
> containers on sale now for $22.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 12, 2015, at 4:28 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
>
> So here it is,  the 2015 oil thread debate.
>
> What Brand and Weight of Oil are you guys using these days on your 16V?
>
> (I had been using Mobil 1 15W50 until my car went into a comma)
>
> Anyone using Lubro Molly 10 W 60 (Expensive stuff but some think the
> thin-ness is liked by our high revving engines..)
>
> Just to make it more interesting,  what are you using in your Transmission?
>
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] Harbor Freight Torque Wrenches

2015-11-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

I think they are always $10, at least I have paid no more than $10 for each
of mine. I would say they're accurate enough. There usually isn't a need
for 100% accuracy. But that's just me.
On Nov 27, 2015 3:14 PM, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> While there is a lot of debate on the quality of these torque wrenches,
> just a heads up that Harbor Freight has them on sale today for $10 each.
>
> You can almost buy two of each size for the price of a mainstream brand:
>
>
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] Harbor Freight Torque Wrenches

2015-11-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

I've checked the hf wrenches against my other few brands and also have used
weights and my vice to test them.  Always seem to be within a couple
percent of the weight I hang off them when testing.
On Nov 27, 2015 3:46 PM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> Just my 10 cents: For most suspension, bracketry, clutch/flywheel, etc.
> purposes, a cheap torque wrench of questionable accuracy is probably okay.
> But for torqueing aluminum heads to, in particular, iron blocks, I
> personally prefer a tool with more assured accuracy. I had four SW wrenches
> which at the time I purchased them weren't terribly expensive, (under $100,
> I think) but afforded me some piece of mind. They could also be calibrated.
> Just my opinion...
> ~Holland
> On Nov 27, 2015 12:14, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
>
>> While there is a lot of debate on the quality of these torque wrenches,
>> just a heads up that Harbor Freight has them on sale today for $10 each.
>>
>> You can almost buy two of each size for the price of a mainstream brand:
>>
>>
>>
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[mk2-16v] Tire Rack + mount and balance tires locally... worth it?

2015-11-09 Thread Chad Rebuck

I just dropped off a car at Tire Kingdom to have a set of four 15" tires
mounted, balanced with the lifetime balance and rotation option included.
Cost is about $110 before tax.  I purchased the tires at Tire Rack because
I was looking for a good deal.

Anyone else buy tires at Tire Rack then wonder if it would have been better
to just buy locally? Do places like Tire Kingdom and Tires Plus still
charge less for mounting and balancing when tires are purchased from them?

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Re: [mk2-16v] Anyone selling?

2015-10-26 Thread Chad Rebuck

I've been thinking about selling my 90 gli but haven't done anything about
it.  I haven't priced any to see what they are going for but my guess is
over 4k.  It is a little quicker than your stock 16v so its better you are
reliving your youth than living your youth in this car.  I'm in Tampa... My
car can make that trip without question :)
On Oct 26, 2015 10:46 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v" <
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Thinking about reliving my youth.  Looking (although sporadically) for a
> 2l 16v GTi.
>
> Anyone thinking about selling?  The closer to Denver, CO the better...
>
> Josh
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] RE: Fuel System Adventures

2015-09-17 Thread Chad Rebuck

You can check to see if the lines are blocked with a bit of compressed
air.  You don't have to pressurize the lines to verify if they can flow.
Just do some testing on a piece of host you have laying around the garage.
You can easily tell if a line is block vs flowing with minimal pressure.

On Thu, Sep 17, 2015 at 3:59 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

> What do you use to draw a vacuum?
>
>
>
> Also, Any tips on how to test if the mechanical fuel distributor is
> working?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *John Lag see
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 8, 2015 2:28 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] RE: Fuel System Adventures
>
>
>
> I would try to draw a vacuum, less chance of bursting the line.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Sep 8, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
>
> I am starting to wonder if my fuel lines are clogged.  Now that I have
> removed the main pump assembly and drained the gas tank – any tips on how
> to test if the fuel lines themselves are clogged?   Run compressed air
> through them maybe?
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] Re: Air Conditioning?

2015-08-28 Thread Chad Rebuck

I checked craigslist and see people selling the 14oz cans of r12 for $25
each, so it is available for those who need it. I took my car out for a
drive last week and found the ac compressor didn't turn on, so it is
probably time for me to add more freon, which is usually needed once a
year. I have a large container of r12 that is maybe half full and it will
outlast my 16v easily. I've replaced the seals in the ac system but there
is still a leak somewhere I haven't addressed.

On a related 16v note... I wouldn't be surprised if my car ends up sold
within the year. I just don't get to drive it much anymore. I saw this
post the other day for an 89 6v gti for sale

http://jalopnik.com/for-4-200-this-1989-vw-gti-16v-could-blow-you-down-1726090743

On Thu, Aug 27, 2015 at 10:32 PM, charlier...@gmail.com wrote:

As many of you know I have a 1987 GTI 16V. It has the original AC System
which is still running the R12 refrigerant.

Back around 1997 I purchased a 1985 4 door Golf from a friend of mine who
was/is a VW Tech at a dealership. At that time it had 67,000 original miles
on it. Unfortunately a deer ran into it causing damage to the hood, fender
and passenger side door. The deer also managed to damage the A/C system as
well.
Since this Golf was going to be a Daily Driver I decided to fix the A/C
system (ie New Receiver/Dryer evaporator) and convert the system to
R134a. After the conversion was done I was curious about the temperature
difference between R12 R134a so I decided to do a little test. I put the
Golf and the GTI 16V side by side in the driveway on a hot summer day (both
systems fully charged in in good mechanical condition). I ran the A/C in
both cars using the same fan settings with the same vents open and measured
the temperature coming out of the same vent positions with the same battery
operated thermometer with a wired probe. I did the test multiple times
because I could not believe the results. There was less than a two degree
difference between the GTI 16V with R12 and the Golf with R134a. This might
not be the most scientific test but the results were interesting.

Now fast forward to the present time. My 1985 Golf is no longer my Daily
Driver but I do drive it on my days off. I am still running the R134a in
the system. Nowadays I do have a slow leak in the system which requires me
to add refrigerant about every other summer. This summer I noticed on a hot
day the A/C was not all that cold. After adding refrigerant the system was
back to ice cold again.

One word of caution. I live in eastern Pennsylvania. This summer our temps
got into the low-mid 90s. With a high dew point we got close to 100 degrees
(real feel) only a couple of times. I would imagine that where you are
located you have 90+ temps a lot more often. Call me strange but on very
hot days I will open all the doors on my vehicles for a few minutes to let
the super hot air (120+ degrees) inside the vehicle out. Even if the temp
in the vehicle only drops 20-30 degrees to equal the outside temperate that
is 20-30 degrees less the A/C system has to try to cool.

When I need more R134a I go to the local Walmart and get some. IIRC a 12oz
can is under $20. I think they also still sell conversion kits as well.

In case you are wondering the A/C in my GTI 16V did work the last time I
ran it. A while back I found an R12 system recharge kit somewhere. That kit
has two unopened cans of R12 and I have a third can that is open and has
the hose and valve system from the kit attached. At least I have the option
of charging the A/C system in the GTI 16V with R12 if I would need/want to.

Charlie

On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:43:38 PM UTC-4, Larry Velez wrote:

I know many have ripped out their AC systems but where I am (Tampa) it is
just not an option.

How are you all keeping your AC systems working these days? Which newer
refrigerants are compatible now that R12 is no longer available and any
tricks to get a nice cold system?

I wonder if swapping in a modern compressor is an option?

Planning ahead to fixing my AC system.

Thanks,

-Larry
91 GTI 16V

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Re: [mk2-16v] AAA

2015-07-17 Thread Chad Rebuck

I pay a few dollars a month for the roadside assistance add on to my ATT
cellular service. It was less than $5/mo from what i remember but you have
me wondering what it may be now.

On Fri, Jul 17, 2015 at 3:18 PM, Larry Velez la...@sinu.com wrote:

I am about to sign up for AAA premier, anyone want me to put them down
as a referral – not sure if you would get some points or something.

Anyone use an alternative to AAA for emergency towing insurance?

-Larry
91 GTI 16V

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[mk2-16v] 16v content + fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less

2015-04-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

16v content:

Also I took apart my 16v transmission with 225k miles (I don't know if it
was ever refreshed with new seals/bearings).  Found that one of the diff
bearings and the small pinion bearing on the output shaft were about to
fall apart and destroy the transmission.

https://plus.google.com/photos/102391619278461274652/albums/6141836974950228337?authkey=CJae7--cq6b-bg

I also rebuilt another 020 transmission that I've been using for the past 3
years, where I caught the small pinion bearing failure just in time.  It
was about to let the rollers out and destroy itself along with the rest of
the transmission I bet.

Fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less:

I got this motortrend email today and thought it would be of interest to
the group

http://www.motortrend.com/features/mt_hot_list/1504_17_most_fun_to_drive_2015_cars_with_200_hp_or_less/viewall.html

What is closer to a modern day 16v?  The Fiesa ST or Golf/GTI?

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RE: [mk2-16v] 16v content + fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less

2015-04-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

That is all the accumulated metal dust is on the magnet. The metal dust is
from the worn out bearings and maybe some of the wear on the gears but I
think it's mostly the bearing wear.
On Apr 29, 2015 5:14 PM, Larry Velez la...@sinu.com wrote:

Nice adventure pictures.

What’s all this fuzzy stuff in picture 2?

About what a modern day 16V would be, I would have to convert the price
to today’s dollars. What did these cars cost when new? Then we can
compare to today’s cars.

Larry

*From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
Behalf Of *Chad Rebuck
*Sent:* Wednesday, April 29, 2015 4:13 PM
*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* [mk2-16v] 16v content + fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less

16v content:

Also I took apart my 16v transmission with 225k miles (I don't know if it
was ever refreshed with new seals/bearings). Found that one of the diff
bearings and the small pinion bearing on the output shaft were about to
fall apart and destroy the transmission.

https://plus.google.com/photos/102391619278461274652/albums/6141836974950228337?authkey=CJae7--cq6b-bg

I also rebuilt another 020 transmission that I've been using for the past
3 years, where I caught the small pinion bearing failure just in time. It
was about to let the rollers out and destroy itself along with the rest of
the transmission I bet.

Fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less:

I got this motortrend email today and thought it would be of interest to
the group

http://www.motortrend.com/features/mt_hot_list/1504_17_most_fun_to_drive_2015_cars_with_200_hp_or_less/viewall.html

What is closer to a modern day 16v? The Fiesa ST or Golf/GTI?

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Re: [mk2-16v] Idle evens out once warm. Motronic

2015-04-14 Thread Chad Rebuck

You can try a local vw dealer for the connector parts (or
http://www.germanautoparts.com/ - that is who I use most of the time for vw
stuff). Also, the metal contacts can be removed from the connector if you
release them properly. Ifyou are able to remove them to squeeze them
tighter or replace with new metal contacts you won't need to find the exact
3 wire dpr connector.

For your alternator issue - maybe the voltage regulator needs to be
replaced?

On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 9:01 PM, Nickmack nmccaher...@gmail.com wrote:

Ok so I think my problem lies in the connection at the dpr. I wiggled the
connector while warming up and the idle shot up to 1100 rpm. The only issue
is I can't find the part number for the connector. The website link I
posted earlier is for the fuel injector.
I'm also having a problem with my alternator not charging until I rev past
4000 rpm. I was driving and the exciter wire on my alternator ripped from
the connector. I crimped a new terminal but it won't charge until I rev.
Which is really bad because I go to work in the early morning when it's
cold.
I really appreciate the help guys.

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Re: [mk2-16v] Idle evens out once warm. Motronic

2015-04-13 Thread Chad Rebuck

I searched to see what options there are for unsubscribing via email and
this is what I came up with. Try entering remove me in the subject line.

https://www.uni.edu/its/kb/8955
On Apr 13, 2015 9:41 PM, 'Jim' via MK2-16v mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
wrote:

Can anyone help me get removed from this list? Using the options below to
opt out are useless as I log into Google Groups and shows that I am not a
member.

I sold my 91 Jetta GLI 16v in 2005 to a friend. The 16v blew up within a
year. In went a VR6. Then rust got to it and the car was cut up and scapped.

Idle content. Idle switch on the throttle body fixed my high idle. Bought
a new switch from the dealer.

On other cars owned by friends, it was a broken harness at the DPR I
recall.

Jim

On April 13, 2015 9:01:55 PM Nickmack nmccaher...@gmail.com wrote:

Ok so I think my problem lies in the connection at the dpr. I wiggled the
connector while warming up and the idle shot up to 1100 rpm. The only issue
is I can't find the part number for the connector. The website link I
posted earlier is for the fuel injector.
I'm also having a problem with my alternator not charging until I rev
past 4000 rpm. I was driving and the exciter wire on my alternator ripped
from the connector. I crimped a new terminal but it won't charge until I
rev. Which is really bad because I go to work in the early morning when
it's cold.
I really appreciate the help guys.

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

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[mk2-16v] 16v content + fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less

RE: [mk2-16v] 16v content + fun to drive cars with 200 hp or less

Re: [mk2-16v] Idle evens out once warm. Motronic

Re: [mk2-16v] Idle evens out once warm. Motronic

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