[neonixie-l] Re: Dekatrons with thyratrons
On Wednesday, October 2, 2013 4:01:58 PM UTC+9:30, Dekatron42 wrote: > The Russians regularely used thyratrons, both cold cathode types and those > with a heater to drive Dekatrons. What types do you have? > Cold cathode. These: http://www.ebay.com/itm/250991574870 There are two in the Geiger probe, one connecting to each of the two GM tubes. Tubes outnumber semiconductors in these Geiger counters! M -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f256bb76-dc21-4e27-882c-727640c3d6fa%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Dekatrons with thyratrons
Has anyone done/seen Dekatrons used in conjunction with thyratrons? I just happen to have some thyratrons which I bought as spares for a Russian Geiger counter I was repairing (fault was actually a gas voltage regulator tube.) They were actually being sold as decimal indicators for Nixie clocks, believe it or not! Didn't know if they might be used in some way between Dekatron stages, or anything like that. Sorry to bring H into an Ne forum ;-) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/532bc9cf-eb23-4092-b25e-413379c94f28%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Otis Elevator Tube Hivac 425A2
> The real danger, here, is that these tubes - like many of the low> voltage > trigger tubes - will not work very much longer as the radiation> sources > decay and raises the trigger threshold. I wonder if these could be resurrected by attaching a radiation source to the envelope. I'd guess that the envelope would probably block alphas, so no point in taping an Am241 source from a smoke detector to the envelope, but possibly a small, exempt size beta source of Sr90 might get one back in action? Greater health risk from the B+ on the tube than from such a tiny radiation source. -- Matthew Smith Business: http://www.smiffytech.com Blog: http://www.smiffysplace.com Linkedin: http://www.linkedin.com/in/smiffy Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/msmiffy Twitter: http://twitter.com/smiffy ABN 16 391 203 815 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9656ebb2-e064-4963-8bdb-cb8a4d597ece%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Another progress in making nixies
On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 5:50:28 AM UTC+9:30, Dalibor wrote: > > I am posting some info about the process of re-inventing the nixie tubes.. > I made first test assembly from etched stainless steel. Making a real nixie > tube is difficult task, but I think there is nothing what could not be > solved! > > That is amazing. What I really like about it is the blown shape, rather > > than a "boring" straight tube - certainly a better aesthetic, in my opinion! > > > Cheers > > M > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1c4f2f85-20fd-407c-995a-8bfdfa8d65fd%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board
> My board will support GPS input - I have the necessary pins (Rx, Tx) to talk to a GPS module. It will be an option with the board. Since you have digital IO available as well, may I suggest a provision in the firmware for PPS input, so you can do full-blown GPS sync? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/152083e9-8ed7-431d-9a5d-916d152f64ba%40googlegroups.com?hl=en-GB. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Futurlec?
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:23:07 AM UTC+9:30, threeneurons wrote: > I just got a package, that I ordered from Futurlec. It took almost a month > to get here. As not to alarm anyone, I can explain why. One of those weeks > could be attributed to my local post office, or specifically, my mail > carrier. They tried to deliver it to my office last Saturday, but its > closed on Saturday, and she didn't leave a notice, until a week later. I > picked it up from the Post office, today. When I used to use Futurlec, postage to Australia was reasonably quick - it was the 2-3 weeks from receiving to despatching the order that took the time. When I'd mail to ask when I was going to receive my order, I've had to wait over a week for a reply, which was a very vague "soon." I'm afraid that I simply don't have the patience to deal with companies like that so, after a period of hunting down stuff on eBay, I settled on Element14, with whom I managed to wangle a good discount. (I think they did it out of goodwill, as I'm not a volume buyer.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/935fad49-11a9-48b8-b544-83bf9fc5db81%40googlegroups.com?hl=en-GB. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: Futurlec?
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:15:53 PM UTC+9:30, Terry S wrote: > Has anyone tried their PCB service? Prices seem cheap enough. > I actually found them slow and relatively expensive. Now I wouldn't consider using anyone but Laen's service at www.oshpark.com unless I need a BIG board - in which case I do my own. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7a70762b-848d-4583-8bdf-2b75968a6b3d%40googlegroups.com?hl=en-GB. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: bespoke case
If you're happy to do create the design files, I'd suggest you take a look at http://www.ponoko.com for laser cutting. Different materials available from different manufacturing 'hubs.' If you want Perspex, you'd be looking for Acrylic, in their materials list. If you use the US hub, you may also have the option of polycarbonate, less likely to crack if you put screws through it. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/ATdyjbyE7xAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Question for all you electronic engineers out there.
On Friday, March 22, 2013 5:59:43 AM UTC+10:30, Sebastian Götte wrote: > > I tend to just let my sodium persulfate solution dry and crystallize > when I am not using it, you just re-add water and dissolve the crystals > by stirring and you can use it again. > That's handy to know. I'll definitely be switching, once current stocks of the ammonium salt are used up. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/gJ4BJ8bqUWcJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Question for all you electronic engineers out there.
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 6:10:44 PM UTC+10:30, mikegregg wrote: > > I switched to sodium/potassium persulfate a while back myself. It was a > good switch. Just make sure it's nice and warm. I typically heat mine to > 110-120f before I start etching. The higher heat makes for cleaner traces, > and a faster etch. > I have a Kinsten etching tank - heat and aeration are courtesy of aquarium parts. But, yes, persulphates need to be warm unless you want REAL slow etching! One other note on persulphates - ammonium persulphate is very hygroscopic. I had a 2.5kg tub, which I found to be useless when I went to it the other week. Whilst the tub itself was polypropylene, the lid was made of some other plastic that had decided to crack in the Australian heat and let in the moisture. The result - a nasty slush that couldn't etch anything. I believe that the sodium/potassium salts don't have this problem, so would tend to favour them in future. Final word on that - not only do the persulphates not attack/stain everything like ferric chloride, but you can actually SEE through them whilst the etch is going on - which I consider to be a big plus. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/siYqi6DsDjAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: Question for all you electronic engineers out there.
> > When I was investigating this a while back, I spent some time here: > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ For the record, whilst I get most of my PCBs done at www.oshpark.com, for larger boards that would otherwise be too costly, or for simple boards I just need in a hurry, I use positive photoresist. I use ammonium persulphate as an etchant; what ferric chloride doesn't attack, it stains; filthy, messy, stuff. Ammonium (or sodium) persulphate *much* nicer to work with (I use a bubble etch tank.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/bxLh_i6KQGAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: IN-3 Lead Identification
On Monday, March 4, 2013 10:03:40 PM UTC+10:30, NoCampersFluffy wrote: > If you grab the datasheet from Dieter's site, which has the extended > datasheet for an IN-3, the explanation for the arrow is listed just under > the diagram on page 2. The arrow points to the Cathode. Thanks to all for the replies. Have to say that I'd never have matched up the arrow on that picture to something on the tube, based on the text; I couldn't see the arrow on the tube until I knew it was there and had a good peer for it, and reading the Cyrillic phonetically, couldn't guess at any meanings. Think I really do need glasses (and didn't occur to me to chuck it under my assembly microscope.) As regards prototyping, I'm one of the cautious types who tends not to build anything - and certainly won't apply power to anything - until I have exhausted the possibilities of the datasheet/manufacturer's helpdesk/friendly online community. I guess it's a combination of OCD and habits gained working with Expensive Silicon ;-) The PCB in question is actually my prototype for this. I tried going back to matrix board, but find it such a complete pain to wire up, I'd rather do the work in Eagle - which also gives me a schematic for reference - and chuck the whole thing onto Kinsten positive photoresist coated PCB stock. [For smaller, non-prototype, stuff which I don't need in a hurry, I get the boards made by OSHPark.] Thanks again to all; will now press on and assemble the PCB for the little boost converter, then start fine-tuning resistor values. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/CA9E_UcMCIgJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] IN-3 Lead Identification
As I read precious little Russian and can't figure this from the datasheet, could someone enlighten me as to which is the anode and the cathode in an IN-3? I'm assuming that the cathode is the silver electrode with the hole in the middle and the anode the smaller, grey, electrode - but don't want to commit this to an Eagle part and end up getting the entire board of 21 tubes wrong! (They will be mounted flat to the board, leads bent through 90 degrees. This is for a BCD clock.) Cheers M -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/vZFjoKljfWAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: A101 Dekatron - Mechanical Drawing
On Saturday, March 2, 2013 8:00:43 AM UTC+10:30, Tidak Ada wrote: > If you do, please let me know. I need some sockets for EZ10B 's Also a > circle with 11 pins, but extended with 3 pins inside that circle > I use the Ponoko laser cutting service; their software accepts SVG, which is really easy to generate with just a little bit of programming. I think I'll probably knock together a bit of JavaScript to do this, so that number of pins, pitch circle diameter, centre pin/hole, whether there is a key, offset from key, etcetera, can be entered and a snippet of SVG created. For what I was thinking, I'll need to do different sized holes for the various layers so that the pins can actually be retained, rather than being loose in the shell. Trickiest bit will be figuring out how to do the key. I could be lazy and just do a circle, then do an up, across, down path but, as a purist, I'd rather do it as a single path. Doing a separate set of holes for your inner pins, well, I guess you could just have two sets of pins with different PCDs. Whilst you'd get two lots of holes all the way around in the initial SVG, these could be edited out before sending for cutting. Be cool to add something like this to the suite of in-browser SVG shape generators I'm working on: http://www.smiffysplace.com/shapes.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/V5NAtAOSA7oJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: A101 Dekatron - Mechanical Drawing
On Saturday, March 2, 2013 7:36:48 AM UTC+10:30, jrehwin wrote: > > Note: the nutty angles in the drawing are simply 360 degrees divided by 11 > equally-spaced pins. Thank you for saving wear and tear on my calculator :-) Can't believe they used degrees and minutes rather than decimal degrees. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/P6mfqpQVKGoJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: A101 Dekatron - Mechanical Drawing
On Saturday, March 2, 2013 7:30:45 AM UTC+10:30, kay486 wrote: > Would this help? > http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/datdekat/A101/A101.htm Just scroll > at the bottom of the page. *headdesk* I was actually looking at that page earlier on - no idea how I missed it! Thanks. Looks like time to do some polar to rectangular calculations. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/QGmG_6wq_doJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] A101 Dekatron - Mechanical Drawing
Does anyone have a mechanical drawing for the A101 or, better, still, the socket? I'm thinking of making up some bases to work with Molex sockets by laminating about three different layers of laser cut (by Ponoko) acrylic. Would rather work from a drawing, if one exists, than reverse-engineer with calipers! (And, yes, I will open source the SVG code.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/M6QSogLtA5AJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: Buying Nixies from outside the UK
I had been half hoping to see some clarification to this point of John's original question, because there are certainly EU regulations concerning hazardous substances (Ne may be inert, but you can find Hg, Be, other nasties.) On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:29:27 PM UTC+10:30, electrofish wrote: > > ... > 2. Are there any import restrictions to the UK due to the content ie neon > etc? > I had wondered whether this affected non-commercial quantities of products, thinking as to whether I could assemble PCBs with proper, er, lead-based, solder and then send them to the UK. A compliance expert at Element14 (Farnell/Newark) gave me a very guarded answer of yes - but not sure if he was uncertain and assuming the worst. Even if this were the case for NEW stuff, there remains the question if this would also apply to equipment containing 'heritage' parts - and those parts themselves. The three four-letter acronyms that I believe may be of concern are REACH[1], RoHS[2], and WEEE[3]. Cheers M 1 - http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/regulations/reach 2 - http://www.bis.gov.uk/nmo/enforcement/rohs-home 3 - http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/business/topics/waste/139283.aspx -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/gS7nZXvluS0J. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: Futurlec?
On Monday, February 25, 2013 6:58:40 AM UTC+10:30, AlexTsekenis wrote: > ... Took about a month delivery to UK. One complain was that they were > delivered in a simple plastic bag, no antistatic measures whatsoever. Similar experience. Speed: always slow, no point in asking when something will be despatched, as they either don't reply or reply but give something unspecific like "soon." Packaging: generally poor. Parts generally arrive wrapped in cellophane, bent pins on SMD parts not unusual, sometimes no labelling. I also don't like the way that they hold credit card details without asking (assuming they still do that.) Otherwise, though, cheap, and as described. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/XflyLAiVYAoJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] IV18 Pin Identification
I have made up some driver PCBs for IV18s, using an Eagle part from the Adafruit library. (See attached, if Google hasn't eaten it.) There is some confusion when every pinout I find shows 22 pins - but the actual tube only has 19. Are the pins I see in Dieter Waechter's datasheet marked 'not connected' in reality not actually there? In an attempt to identify pin 1 - which appears to be at the bottom of the tube in relation to the display, I assumed that only pins 1 and 13 (heater) would show continuity. Pins 1 an 13 do not show continuity - pins 1 and 10 do, further reinforcing my suspicion that 'not connected' is a rather confusing way of saying 'missing.' If pins 6, 7, 8 are actually gaps 6, 7, 8 (I notice the pitch of the pins on the front of the tube are less than at the rear) then I think I may need to re-hash the part library, as putting pads/holes on a PCB with nothing to go in them is, well, confusing! Or are there two variants of the IV18 - one with unconnected pins, one with no pins? Then I have the fun figuring out how to get hardware SPI to send 20, not 24 bits to the MAX6921 :-) (I'll probably bit-bang it.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/01sskcGmQwgJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. <>
Re: [neonixie-l] Etching anodes and cathodes
I've picked up on this discussion late, so don't know if anyone's suggested this to try: 50/50 copper sulphate/table salt. Don't know if this will work on stainless steel, but has been recommended for etching ordinary steel or aluminium. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/38sIKbiJ4oEJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: MTX-90 in counting circuit?
On Thursday, January 31, 2013 1:30:50 PM UTC+10:30, threeneurons wrote: > Unfortunately, the only trigger that has the proper signal levels > to commutate a dekatron properly is the Ericsson GTE175M... Ah, that's a shame - on the basis that the XD18 is to be had plentifully, and at a sensible price. Wonder if it's possible to replace a thermionic triode with a transistor of some description - rather than going the microcontroller route, which I still think seems to be a bit of an overkill, and not really in keeping with the aesthetic I'm looking for. 20V in, 60V down - just an inverter with a gain of 3, isn't it? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/6tPXBUsloF8J. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: MTX-90 in counting circuit?
On Thursday, January 31, 2013 6:33:48 AM UTC+10:30, Grahame Marsh wrote: > ... > Or Abe Books for £91 > Ouch! And that's AbeBooks, too. So thanks for sharing :-) But this thread is rather timely - just yesterday I went back to trying to figure out how to cascade A101 Dekatrons to form a clock/calendar. Whilst I'd figured a simple way to do it, using a tiny microcontroller between each stage (which also makes it easy to set,) barring the initial timing source, I wanted to stay away from silicon if possible. Would something like an XC18 (now that I've located a source,) be suited to this task? (Sufficiently illuminated, that is.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/Jt-RykaDb8kJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
