Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-04-12 Thread bob harper
hi all, thanks for suggestions for this fault.. relay and capacitor 
triedit was indeed cured by a capacitor [0.47uf 630v] without the need 
for a relay.
now i have another question! i am trying to find why GR43 number 15 on the 
schematic strikes as soon as power is applied and stays lit, until it gets 
is extinguish pulse, it then after a few seconds re-strikes, it should not 
strike until it receives a pulse from ER32 tube 8 on the schematic...i have 
changed capacitors and checked values of resistors around this tube and 
cant find a fault...is it safe as far as the GR43 to disconnect the trigger 
and leave it floating, at least then i know if it striking spontaneously or 
getting a trigger pulse when it should notthanks, bob

On Friday, March 28, 2014 3:31:14 PM UTC, Dekatron42 wrote:

 Hi Bob,

 Would it be possible for you to use a relay in between the wiper contact 
 and the trigger tube? Maybe the wiper could drive a relay and you then use 
 the relay contacts to drive the trigger tube, just for testing if that will 
 solve the problem.

 The problem with old SRBP PCB's is that contacts that rotate on them leave 
 a track of dirt which will carry leakage currents. Sometimes you can get 
 rid of this by washing them in an ultrasonic cleaner and also by bathing 
 them in isopropyl alcohol, some need mechanical cleaning to remove the 
 conducting track and some are impossible to clean enough which leaves the 
 only option of letting them control a relay that then controls the original 
 circuit.

 /Martin 


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread JohnK
I still haven't looked closely to see what the wiper and track is and where it 
is on the schematic. That said, my capacitor suggestion wasn't worded that way.
I suggest that the capacitor is wired such that one end is to the wiper arm and 
the other end is to the track that the wiper arm is supposed to contact. The 
capacitor is shorted out if everything is normal.  Does your wording mean that 
too?
Any photos of the track and wiper?

John K
Australia
  - Original Message - 
  From: bob harper 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 28, 2014 8:27 PM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents


  hhih


  hi martin, yes i am watching the  GR43 on ebay!


  yes the 1st tube on the left i was referring to is marked ER32 [sorry thought 
schematic was posted up] it now has a GR44 installed in place [i have tried a 
couple] the fault has now been traced to the fact that the cathode connection 
to the solenoid is via a phenolic track on a pcb with a motor driven wiper arm 
carrying the connection this if momentarily loses continuity[the track is 50 
years old] is enough to fire the GR44 and the solenoid...a capacitor has been 
suggested across the solenoid, which i have yet to try...bob
  On Friday, March 28, 2014 9:37:07 AM UTC, Dekatron42 wrote:
Hi Bob,


There is a GR43 for sale on Ebay UK here: 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GR43-VALVE-SUB-MINIATURE-GAS-TRIGGER-TUBE-CERBERUS-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/251484552167?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubeshash=item3a8da5bbe7
 , maybe that seller has more if you need.


I am sorry but I don't understand which of the trigger tubes you mean by 
the 1st tube on the left - what number is written close to the trigger tube?


/Martin

On Thursday, 27 March 2014 09:04:33 UTC+1, bob harper wrote:
  hi all...well i have finally got this thing working...all trigger tubes, 
in the selection system the countdown tubes in the credit unit and the 3 
digital display nixie tubes...but ONE remaining problem. the 1st tube on the 
left in the schematic a GR44 [i have tried another as well] fires when it 
should, but also when it should not, i disconnected the trigger and it still 
fires...the problem [i think] is that the K cathode is connected via a wiper 
contact on a rotating arm to the reset solenoid, which although cleaned and 
adjusted and tested with the meter, must be occasionally losing its contact 
[bear in mind the etched track is 50 years old] for a split second...which i am 
assuming [here my knowledge gets hazy] that would allow the anode voltage to 
rise and trigger the tube? if this is the case, is there a solution to this? if 
not, my thought was to put in a relay which when the motor driving the rotating 
arm is running it opens the circuit from the cathode to the reset coil...any 
thoughts anyone? thanks, bob





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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread JohnK
Thanks for the pic of the wiper. 
 I trust the Electrolube brand products - 
http://www.electrolube.com/

Others swear by a very expensive American cleaner/lubricator. That one has 
cheap constituants that are marketed cheaply by others but those brands don't 
have the 'magic' apparently. The chemicals involved were discussed here or Tube 
Collectors Association group a few times.

John K.
  - Original Message - 
  From: bobharper...@gmail.com 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2014 1:34 AM
  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents


  hi thanks to you and Martin for replies yes meant to say cap across wiper not 
solenoid
  The gr44 does remain stable and will only fire if the trigger pulse is given 
as long as I don't revolve the wiper arm ,(I temporarily disconnected the drive 
motor) as soon as I reconnect it and it's revolving at full speed that's when 
the fault occurs thank bob


  ...clip..

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread Quixotic Nixotic

On 28 Mar 2014, at 15:52, John Rehwinkel wrote:

 The problem with old SRBP PCB's is that contacts that rotate on them leave a 
 track of dirt which will carry leakage currents.
 
 What is SRBP?
 
 - John

Synthetic resin bonded paper.

John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread Dekatron42
Hi Bob,

Would it be possible for you to use a relay in between the wiper contact 
and the trigger tube? Maybe the wiper could drive a relay and you then use 
the relay contacts to drive the trigger tube, just for testing if that will 
solve the problem.

The problem with old SRBP PCB's is that contacts that rotate on them leave 
a track of dirt which will carry leakage currents. Sometimes you can get 
rid of this by washing them in an ultrasonic cleaner and also by bathing 
them in isopropyl alcohol, some need mechanical cleaning to remove the 
conducting track and some are impossible to clean enough which leaves the 
only option of letting them control a relay that then controls the original 
circuit.

/Martin 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread John Rehwinkel
 The problem with old SRBP PCB's is that contacts that rotate on them leave a 
 track of dirt which will carry leakage currents.

What is SRBP?

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-28 Thread Nick
On Friday, 28 March 2014 16:30:04 UTC, Nixcited delighted  wrote:
 
  What is SRBP?

 Synthetic resin bonded paper.
 
...aka Paxolin or FR-2

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FR-2

Nick

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-27 Thread JohnK
Depends on how and where you disconnected the trigger - may need to load down 
that pin.
Can you confirm that lifting the wiper DOES trigger the tube?   You could set 
up the right conditions on the other pins [including trigger] and then 
interrupt that circuit manually.
If it is a 'glitch' from the wiper, a capacitor/resistor network should improve 
things. 
Let's see what is forthcoming from all the others here.
John K
Australia
  - Original Message - 
  From: bob harper 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 6:34 PM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents


  hi all...well i have finally got this thing working...all trigger tubes, in 
the selection system the countdown tubes in the credit unit and the 3 digital 
display nixie tubes...but ONE remaining problem. the 1st tube on the left in 
the schematic a GR44 [i have tried another as well] fires when it should, but 
also when it should not, i disconnected the trigger and it still fires...the 
problem [i think] is that the K cathode is connected via a wiper contact on a 
rotating arm to the reset solenoid, which although cleaned and adjusted and 
tested with the meter, must be occasionally losing its contact [bear in mind 
the etched track is 50 years old] for a split second...clip.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-27 Thread bob harper
Hi right I have broken the circuit to the solenoid from the cathode of the
gr44 all other wiring reconnected as schematic it does indeed fire the gr44
and the solenoid if momentary disconnected so that does seem to be the
source of the fault. Bob
On 27 Mar 2014 09:33, JohnK yend...@internode.on.net wrote:

  Depends on how and where you disconnected the trigger - may need to load
 down that pin.
 Can you confirm that lifting the wiper DOES trigger the tube?   You could
 set up the right conditions on the other pins [including trigger] and then
 interrupt that circuit manually.
 If it is a 'glitch' from the wiper, a capacitor/resistor network should
 improve things.
 Let's see what is forthcoming from all the others here.
 John K
 Australia

 - Original Message -
 *From:* bob harper bobharper...@gmail.com
 *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2014 6:34 PM
 *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

 hi all...well i have finally got this thing working...all trigger tubes,
 in the selection system the countdown tubes in the credit unit and the 3
 digital display nixie tubes...but ONE remaining problem. the 1st tube on
 the left in the schematic a GR44 [i have tried another as well] fires when
 it should, but also when it should not, i disconnected the trigger and it
 still fires...the problem [i think] is that the K cathode is connected via
 a wiper contact on a rotating arm to the reset solenoid, which although
 cleaned and adjusted and tested with the meter, must be occasionally losing
 its contact [bear in mind the etched track is 50 years old] for a split
 second...clip.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-03-27 Thread JohnK
Maybe a capacitor across the wiper contact will solve it. The capacitor would 
normally be shorted by the wiper making correct contact. A momentary opening 
would be swamped by the uncharged capacitor. The capacitor may need a small 
series resistance to reduce the current from the capacitor when the wiper 
shorts it again. [ I hope - I can't picture the wiper etc that you mention. 
Want to hear from others too.]
John K.
  - Original Message - 
  From: bob harper 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 28, 2014 2:01 AM
  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents


  Hi right I have broken the circuit to the solenoid from the cathode of the 
gr44 all other wiring reconnected as schematic it does indeed fire the gr44 and 
the solenoid if momentary disconnected so that does seem to be the source of 
the fault. Bob

  On 27 Mar 2014 09:33, JohnK yend...@internode.on.net wrote:

Depends on how and where you disconnected the trigger - may need to load 
down that pin.
Can you confirm that lifting the wiper DOES trigger the tube?   You could 
set up the right conditions on the other pins [including trigger] and then 
interrupt that circuit manually.
If it is a 'glitch' from the wiper, a capacitor/resistor network should 
improve things. 
Let's see what is forthcoming from all the others here.
John K
Australia
  - Original Message - 
  From: bob harper 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 6:34 PM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents


  hi all...well i have finally got this thing working...all trigger tubes, 
in the selection system the countdown tubes in the credit unit and the 3 
digital display nixie tubes...but ONE remaining problem. the 1st tube on the 
left in the schematic a GR44 [i have tried another as well] fires when it 
should, but also when it should not, i disconnected the trigger and it still 
fires...the problem [i think] is that the K cathode is connected via a wiper 
contact on a rotating arm to the reset solenoid, which although cleaned and 
adjusted and tested with the meter, must be occasionally losing its contact 
[bear in mind the etched track is 50 years old] for a split 
second...clip.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-25 Thread Instrument Resources of America
On CLOSE examination, I note that all of the insulating sleeves are 
discolored, and the discoloration becomes darker the closer you get to 
the base of the tube. I would guess that the discoloration is from being 
exposed to long hours of heat from the tube. One insulating sleeve is 
also cracked, which to me is another indication of long hours of heat, 
possibly age, and probably 'reckless handling' when being removed from 
the circuit that it was soldered into. Which brings me to my last and 
final point. Note the solder, on the only two leads that are visible in 
the photo. If it is new where is the box that it came in, with the name 
Elesta and the number ER-32 clearly labeled on the box?  I did go and 
search on Google for an image of 'ER-32', and 'ER-32 trigger', and 
'ER-32 trigger tube', to no avail. Also searched on Frank.pocnet.net, 
and also Jeremy H. Harmers collection on line for some sort of a photo 
of hopefully a new one, but to no avail.  My collection of over 5000 
tubes, does not have an example. I'm a member of Tube Collerctors 
Association, TCA, so I'll ask there for you as well.   Looks used to me. 
I would certainly communicate the above observations and concerns to the 
seller. His feedback is quite good, so hopefully you will get some 
honest answers to your concerns.  On the other hand he clearly states in 
the ad text, NO GUARANTY, NO RETURN, if my German is till good enough.  
Why is that if the tube is NEW??  Good luck, and let us know how you 
make out.  I guess that if you went ahead and bought it, and it arrived 
to you and was obviously USED, you could file a claim with Ebay to get 
your funds back, but that's a long and messy process.Ira.





On 2/24/2014 11:03 PM, Dekatron42 wrote:
There are 9 ER32's for sale on eBay right now, looks used from the 
photo but it says new in the auction text, the auction is for just one 
piece but the seller says he has 9 for sale.


http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kaltkathodenrohren-Rohre-Elektronenrohre-ELESTA-ER-32-/380850336785?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Sonstigehash=item58ac72f411

/Martin
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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-25 Thread Dekatron42
There were 50 sold s few weeks ago on Ebay UK 
: 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-capacitors-x-50-small-ER32-A-ELESTA-new-swiss-15-fuse-amp-/261386179279?nma=truesi=tnNIKXvFcb6%252FkXHteD2N2XwObYM%253Dorig_cvip=truert=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2557
 
perhaps someone can contact that seller and see if he has more 
information/photos.

/Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-25 Thread Instrument Resources of America
From the photos you can see that they did NOT come with any 
insulating sleeves on the wire leads. The leads are also quite straight. 
They appear to be tinned, with no large ugly blobs of solder on the ends 
of the leads.  They are in a factory original carton. Just about what I 
would expect for NEW. Ira.






On 2/25/2014 1:29 AM, Dekatron42 wrote:
There were 50 sold s few weeks ago on Ebay UK 
: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-capacitors-x-50-small-ER32-A-ELESTA-new-swiss-15-fuse-amp-/261386179279?nma=truesi=tnNIKXvFcb6%252FkXHteD2N2XwObYM%253Dorig_cvip=truert=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2557 
perhaps someone can contact that seller and see if he has more 
information/photos.


/Martin
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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-25 Thread bobharper...@gmail.com
hi thanks for the info. Will keep my eye on it. Bob


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents
Date: Tue, Feb 25, 2014 07:03

There are 9 ER32's for sale on eBay right now, looks used from the photo 
but it says new in the auction text, the auction is for just one piece but 
the seller says he has 9 for sale.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kaltkathodenrohren-Rohre-Elektronenrohre-ELESTA-ER-32-/380850336785?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Sonstigehash=item58ac72f411

/Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-24 Thread Dekatron42
There are 9 ER32's for sale on eBay right now, looks used from the photo 
but it says new in the auction text, the auction is for just one piece but 
the seller says he has 9 for sale.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kaltkathodenrohren-Rohre-Elektronenrohre-ELESTA-ER-32-/380850336785?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Sonstigehash=item58ac72f411

/Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-16 Thread Grahame Marsh

Bob

I also think that the applied voltage to the resistor in the anode 
circuit has to be lower than the voltage needed for the anode-cathode to 
strike itself.  If higher then the R-C-tube will act as a relaxtion 
oscillator.  The voltage must be higher than the voltage that will fire 
the anode-cathode gap when the tube when the grid is triggered (which 
must be the case now).  The capacitor then provides the energy to 
operate the solinoid and will discharge to a low voltage and the tube 
will self extinguish.  So you might compare the voltage with the 
datasheet (which I don't have) to check it is below the anode-cathode 
firing voltage.  And/or disconnect the trigger signal and see if the 
tube continues to flash - ie it is acting as a relaxation oscillator and 
not being triggered.


I have some Z700U, if you would like a couple PM me with your address.

Grahame

On 16/02/2014 11:25, bob harper wrote:
ok i have checked all the resistors around this tube and replaced all 
caps still no good...i have doing a bit of reading cold cathode tubes 
my dance and circuit design by neal [free book downloads] and it seems 
to me that this circuit would need a pulse to fire and be extinguished 
by the 16uf cap charging, but with a permantly live trigger this cycle 
would repeat [exactly what its doing] which will not do the tube much 
good as the trigger voltage should be removed before the anode voltage 
[if i read it right] so i think either the diagram is wrong [unlikely] 
or the switching on the jukebox has been altered/bodged i thought 
about using the switched live K3 to feed a relay and timing capacitor 
to give a pulse to the tube unless there is a way of again using a 
capacitor in the trigger circuit to charge up between the trigger and 
cathode to give them the same potential while the tube is in the 
conducting state.bob


On Saturday, February 15, 2014 4:35:23 PM UTC, bob harper wrote:

hi Martin thanks for the reply yes I did tie the triggers together
and replaced the 16 if cap will double check all the other
components and check the anode current thanks bob

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com
mailto:martin.forsb...@gmail.com
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents
Date: Sat, Feb 15, 2014 12:32

Did you wire both trigger electrodes together, the Z660W have two trigger
electrodes but the ER32 only one.

You must also check that the minimum anode current is 5mA as the Z660W
might otherwise work unreliably in some situation according to the
datasheet.

You might also have to check the capacitor connected to the anode as well
as the anode resistor as those form the circuit that extinguishes the
trigger tube, turning it off, and if they do not work properly the tube
might not be fully extinguished and then it will turn on again - the
capacitor might leaky opr any of the other capacitors/resistors surrounding
this trigger tube might be leaky or having the wrong value.

Also don't forget to replace resistors with types that can handle the
voltage in these circuits, many cheap resistors sold today only tolerate
125V or 250V which won't do in circuits like these!

/Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-16 Thread Dekatron42
The trigger should not stay on, the capacitor before the trigger electrode 
should only produce a pulse, unless there is a leakage current flowing to 
the trigger through this capacitor. You can test this by lowering the 22M 
resistor to ground to lets say 10M and see if the circuit behaves in a 
similar way, I have seen circuits with even lower resistor values down to 
just 2.2M. You might have to change the type of capacitor used and use a 
type similar to the ones in the original circuit.

There are also some small differences between the ER32 and the Z660W that 
you use that might affect the circuit, the Z661W is a closer replacement 
according to the RFT databook.

/Martin

On Sunday, 16 February 2014 12:25:34 UTC+1, bob harper wrote:

 ok i have checked all the resistors around this tube and replaced all caps 
 still no good...i have doing a bit of reading cold cathode tubes my dance 
 and circuit design by neal [free book downloads] and it seems to me that 
 this circuit would need a pulse to fire and be extinguished by the 16uf cap 
 charging, but with a permantly live trigger this cycle would repeat 
 [exactly what its doing] which will not do the tube much good as the 
 trigger voltage should be removed before the anode voltage [if i read it 
 right] so i think either the diagram is wrong [unlikely] or the switching 
 on the jukebox has been altered/bodged i thought about using the switched 
 live K3 to feed a relay and timing capacitor to give a pulse to the tube 
 unless there is a way of again using a capacitor in the trigger circuit to 
 charge up between the trigger and cathode to give them the same potential 
 while the tube is in the conducting state.bob

 On Saturday, February 15, 2014 4:35:23 PM UTC, bob harper wrote:

 hi Martin thanks for the reply yes I did tie the triggers together and 
 replaced the 16 if cap will double check all the other components and check 
 the anode current thanks bob

 Sent from my HTC

 - Reply message -
 From: Dekatron42 martin@gmail.com javascript:
 To: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents
 Date: Sat, Feb 15, 2014 12:32

 Did you wire both trigger electrodes together, the Z660W have two trigger 
 electrodes but the ER32 only one.

 You must also check that the minimum anode current is 5mA as the Z660W 
 might otherwise work unreliably in some situation according to the 
 datasheet.

 You might also have to check the capacitor connected to the anode as well 
 as the anode resistor as those form the circuit that extinguishes the 
 trigger tube, turning it off, and if they do not work properly the tube 
 might not be fully extinguished and then it will turn on again - the 
 capacitor might leaky opr any of the other capacitors/resistors surrounding 
 this trigger tube might be leaky or having the wrong value.

 Also don't forget to replace resistors with types that can handle the 
 voltage in these circuits, many cheap resistors sold today only tolerate 
 125V or 250V which won't do in circuits like these!

 /Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2014-02-15 Thread bobharper...@gmail.com
hi Martin thanks for the reply yes I did tie the triggers together and replaced 
the 16 if cap will double check all the other components and check the anode 
current thanks bob

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents
Date: Sat, Feb 15, 2014 12:32

Did you wire both trigger electrodes together, the Z660W have two trigger 
electrodes but the ER32 only one.

You must also check that the minimum anode current is 5mA as the Z660W 
might otherwise work unreliably in some situation according to the 
datasheet.

You might also have to check the capacitor connected to the anode as well 
as the anode resistor as those form the circuit that extinguishes the 
trigger tube, turning it off, and if they do not work properly the tube 
might not be fully extinguished and then it will turn on again - the 
capacitor might leaky opr any of the other capacitors/resistors surrounding 
this trigger tube might be leaky or having the wrong value.

Also don't forget to replace resistors with types that can handle the 
voltage in these circuits, many cheap resistors sold today only tolerate 
125V or 250V which won't do in circuits like these!

/Martin

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trigger tube equivilents

2013-06-22 Thread John Rehwinkel
 hi all, have now got the schematic, for you experts to look over!

Looks like I was wrong, the tube you identified as ER33 really is an ER33 
(that's no G on the schematic).  Unfortunately, unlike the other tubes, the 
schematic
doesn't show what the various leads are.

 also as the power supply is missing, it looks like its a just a isolation 
 transformer at 220v is it worth going for a 240220?

I doubt it, and a 1:1 transformer will likely be easier to find.  You can 
always add another 12-24V transformer wired to buck the voltage if you want 
to drop it a little with common parts.

 also the original design used a pair of OA2 regulaters, solid state be better 
 and easier?

Solid state would be easier (you can get zeners for that voltage).  As for 
better, you have two choices.  The 0A2s are actually less noisy than equivalent 
voltage zeners, however I don't think noise is an issue here (this isn't audio 
circuitry).  You could also use a series regulated supply, which would likely 
be more efficient (doing away with that 16 watt series resistor) than the 
existing shunt-regulated version.  It would also be quieter, but not easier - a 
series regulated supply is more complex.

 unfortunately the DC voltage is not shown

A 0A2 regulates at 150 volts, so with two of 'em in series, you'll get 300 
volts.

- John

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