Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hello Guys,
 My old 51 has been sitting up since 1996 without being cranked. It would 
probably be a good idea to do this to all my cylinders- do you agree. Any other 
advice , things to be doing or looking for before trying to put him back to 
life.
 
Thanks,
Robert Westmoreland
1951 Chevy 3100
Greenwood, SC



From: "cadamsa...@aol.com" 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?


  
Hello Mark and Ole Truckers,

Thanks for the Marvel Mystery Oil tip: getting compression in all 
cylinders to triple digits made me think life was pretty sweet, but 
I'll give the MMO a try and see what I can do. (I'm getting used to a 
little smoke and the neighbors are a kindly group. None-the-less, I'll 
fire her up at pre-sunrise first light to burn off the MMO.)

Regards,

Culver Adams
1951 Chevy 3100
Minneapolis, MN

---
-Original Message-
From: ccpanel <mailto:ccpanel%40yahoo.com>
To: old-chevy-truck <mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 19, 2012 9:36 am
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?

 
looks like the rings in #6 are glued to the piston and need to be 
losened up.
try soaking that cyl in marvel mystery oil overnight(pull plug-soak cyl 
w/MMO)
then crank over few times with plug out, reinstall plug and drive 
it(will smoke for first little bit)
repeat and drive until either compression stops going up(but is still 
low) or finally comes up to within 15% of highest compression.
Mark

--- In mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com, cadamsarch@... wrote:
>
> Hello Chico and Ole Truckers,
>
> Just to clarify, I left the Fel-Pro Distributor Mounting Gasket
> (Fel-Pro 12665) between the distributor and 235 engine block 
(because I
> couldn't see any reason to take it out). Once I vented the 
crankcase to
> the outside, there wasn't enough crankcase pressure to push oil 
out at
> the distributor. Will it be the same if I take the Fel-Pro 
Distributor
> Mounting Gasket out? I don't know, but I would guess, probably. 
Will
> all 235 engines do what mine does? I don't know, but I would 
guess,
> probably, for most and , probably not, for a few.
>
> If I didn't have so many projects, I'd put a pressure gage on my
> crankcase and check the pressure with the crankcase not vented to 
the
> outside.
>
> As a footnote, before I installed the far-from-new (and long time
> sitting) 235, I oiled cylinders and valves and tested cylinder
> compression:
> Cylinder: Compression (psi):
> 1 110
> 2 110
> 3 87
> 4 103
> 5 75
> 6 65
> I was concerned about those three double digit readings. Nate 
(thank
> you, Nate) has written a bunch that the best thing for these 
stovebolts
> is to keep them running. I figured installing it and running it is
> worth a try.
>
> After running a few hundred miles, I tested again:
> Cylinder: Compression:
> 1 144
> 2 155
> 3 132
> 4 132
> 5 115
> 6 105
> Wow. (Nate, thank you.) Perhaps I should try my PCV idea again 
with
> what now must be lower crankcase pressure.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Culver Adams
> 1951 Chevy 3100
> Minneapolis, MN




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hi John,
 Yes, i have already added Marvels to what little gas is in the tank. I plan on 
removing the tank and cleaning it out before trying to fire it up.



From: "Goulet, John A." 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 7:11 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?

Your gas will all be fresh ??  Yes?

I like to remove the spark plugs, hook up a good battery and crank it over 
until I get oil pressure.  Other people like to run the oil pump by itself.  
But some activity to get oil sent thru before actual running.

Just my 2 cents worth.

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Robert Westmoreland [rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 6:32 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?



Hello Guys,
My old 51 has been sitting up since 1996 without being cranked. It would 
probably be a good idea to do this to all my cylinders- do you agree. Any other 
advice , things to be doing or looking for before trying to put him back to 
life.

Thanks,
Robert Westmoreland
1951 Chevy 3100
Greenwood, SC


From: "cadamsa...@aol.com<mailto:cadamsarch%40aol.com>" 
mailto:cadamsarch%40aol.com>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?


Hello Mark and Ole Truckers,

Thanks for the Marvel Mystery Oil tip: getting compression in all
cylinders to triple digits made me think life was pretty sweet, but
I'll give the MMO a try and see what I can do. (I'm getting used to a
little smoke and the neighbors are a kindly group. None-the-less, I'll
fire her up at pre-sunrise first light to burn off the MMO.)

Regards,

Culver Adams
1951 Chevy 3100
Minneapolis, MN

---
-Original Message-
From: ccpanel <mailto:ccpanel%40yahoo.com>
To: old-chevy-truck <mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 19, 2012 9:36 am
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Distributor O-Ring?


looks like the rings in #6 are glued to the piston and need to be
losened up.
try soaking that cyl in marvel mystery oil overnight(pull plug-soak cyl
w/MMO)
then crank over few times with plug out, reinstall plug and drive
it(will smoke for first little bit)
repeat and drive until either compression stops going up(but is still
low) or finally comes up to within 15% of highest compression.
Mark

--- In mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com, cadamsarch@... wrote:
>
> Hello Chico and Ole Truckers,
>
> Just to clarify, I left the Fel-Pro Distributor Mounting Gasket
> (Fel-Pro 12665) between the distributor and 235 engine block
(because I
> couldn't see any reason to take it out). Once I vented the
crankcase to
> the outside, there wasn't enough crankcase pressure to push oil
out at
> the distributor. Will it be the same if I take the Fel-Pro
Distributor
> Mounting Gasket out? I don't know, but I would guess, probably.
Will
> all 235 engines do what mine does? I don't know, but I would
guess,
> probably, for most and , probably not, for a few.
>
> If I didn't have so many projects, I'd put a pressure gage on my
> crankcase and check the pressure with the crankcase not vented to
the
> outside.
>
> As a footnote, before I installed the far-from-new (and long time
> sitting) 235, I oiled cylinders and valves and tested cylinder
> compression:
> Cylinder: Compression (psi):
> 1 110
> 2 110
> 3 87
> 4 103
> 5 75
> 6 65
> I was concerned about those three double digit readings. Nate
(thank
> you, Nate) has written a bunch that the best thing for these
stovebolts
> is to keep them running. I figured installing it and running it is
> worth a try.
>
> After running a few hundred miles, I tested again:
> Cylinder: Compression:
> 1 144
> 2 155
> 3 132
> 4 132
> 5 115
> 6 105
> Wow. (Nate, thank you.) Perhaps I should try my PCV idea again
with
> what now must be lower crankcase pressure.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Culver Adams
> 1951 Chevy 3100
> Minneapolis, MN

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] brake lines for chevy pickup

[Robert Westmoreland]

I live in South Carolina. Hardly no snow so no salt on the roads. What do you 
recommend?





 From: "Goulet, John A." 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] brake lines for chevy pickup
 
plain steel might be inclined to rust out fast, depending on the climate you 
are in.  There are better materials.

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Robert [rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 9:04 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] brake lines for chevy pickup



Has anyone bought the Steel Brake Line Tubing Kit 3/16" O.D. x 25 foot Coil 
with assorted fittings for using to replace old lines?

Hope everyone had a good Gobble Day!
Thanks, Robert
51 3100







Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine

[Robert Westmoreland]

Thanks Nate,
 I'll keep that in mind after i get it fired up. Took the carb off this 
afternoon and got it soaking. You ever rebuilt an old one barrel? If so, is 
there much to it?




 From: Nate 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:21 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine
 

  

Yay ! .

Remember : it'll prolly smoke a lot for a while , just run it and tune it , 
expect to do several valve adjustments before they stay adjusted as the old 
carbon chips away .

Several HOT oil changes too , using thin Dino based oils until it either stops 
smoking or you decide to re ring it .

-Nate
Robert wrote :
>
> I just wanted to say thanks to the forum for posts about how to free stuck 
> engine. I have been trying to get my 216 unstuck for about a month now and 
> finally broke it free today. Can't wait to get it fired up!!!
>


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine

[Robert Westmoreland]

Cale, 
We are fishing in the same boat here. I have worked on a few lawn mower carby's 
though. Had pretty good luck with those, so i'm jumping in the pond.

From: Cale Seavers 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine

  
I rebuilt my Rochester single barrel with a rebuild kit and advice from the 
guys here. I was sure it was going to be way over my head and it was pretty 
simple. If I can do it, you can...my car expertise can be summarized as "too 
stupid to know better." You can do it! Good luck!
-Cale
'51 1/2 ton (all original)

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2013, at 8:33 PM, "Robert Westmoreland" 
<mailto:rl_westmoreland%40yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks Nate,
> I'll keep that in mind after i get it fired up. Took the carb off this 
> afternoon and got it soaking. You ever rebuilt an old one barrel? If so, is 
> there much to it?
> 
> 
> From: Nate <mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>
> To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:21 AM
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yay ! .
> 
> Remember : it'll prolly smoke a lot for a while , just run it and tune it , 
> expect to do several valve adjustments before they stay adjusted as the old 
> carbon chips away .
> 
> Several HOT oil changes too , using thin Dino based oils until it either 
> stops smoking or you decide to re ring it .
> 
> -Nate
> Robert wrote :
> >
> > I just wanted to say thanks to the forum for posts about how to free stuck 
> > engine. I have been trying to get my 216 unstuck for about a month now and 
> > finally broke it free today. Can't wait to get it fired up!!!
> >
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] And So It Begins

[Robert Westmoreland]

Congratulations, enjoy ever moment you can with her. They grow up way to fast 
and at a certain age it's not cool to hang with grandpa.




 From: "fiftyone5win...@aol.com" 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] And So It Begins
 

  

In a message dated 3/31/2013 10:10:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
vwna...@yahoo.com writes:

My first  Grand Child was born , Penny Darlene Hall , 6# , 20" , healthy 
and beautiful  .

A new chapter of my life is beginning  .

-Nate

Congrats !!  Take lots of pics, they grow up way too fast. 

Don
Fiftyone5window

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Resurection

[Robert Westmoreland]

Well i did it. Tore into the one barrel carb. All wwas going well until trying 
to put the screws back int the shaft in the throttle body and snapped it off.  
I tried drilling it out screwing up the shaft. Anyone know where i might locate 
another shaft for a one barrel rochester with manual choke? Also the brass 
screws?
The craftmanship on these old vehicles is really impressive. But if you are 
reading this you already kow that.





 From: Nate 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 10:47 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Resurection
 

  

Oh yeah ~ I've touched one or two of those Rochester series 'B' carbys

They're dead simple , just be gentle with it ~ they don't like much torque on 
the four cover screws ~ expect some weeping of fuel 'round the gasket joint , 
DO NOT over tighten those screws else you'll ruin it beyond repair .

Depending on it's over all condition , you may not even need a kit .

Just take it apart over a clean light colored towel as there's a BB in the 
accelerator pump that always seems to fall out .

When you're re assembling it , be very careful to not catch the float on the 
gasket as you replace the cover , this will bend the float tang and make it run 
way too rich .

Remember : the carby is the _VERY_LAST_THING_ you touch during any tune up ! 
valves , then points gap (.016") then ignition timing (ball on pointer) then 
spark plugs gapped to .035 , then you can begin thinking about touching the 
carby .

The original 216 has a Carter W1 carby , this is a very good carby indeed ! .

Mostly they've been replaced by Rochester Leaks-A-Lot Series 'B' .

Have fun , don't get P.O.'d when you get stuck or one dist cap spring crumbles 
the *instant* you touch it etc. .

-Nate
Bob   wrote :
>
> Thanks Nate,
>  I'll keep that in mind after i get it fired up. Took the carb off this 
> afternoon and got it soaking. You ever rebuilt an old one barrel? If so, is 
> there much to it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Resurection

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hi Cale,
 I'm acually talking about the two brass looking screws that hold the disc (for 
lack of what it may be called) in the throttle body and the shaft.
Any help would be great. Just let me know what you want for them.

From: Cale Seavers 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Resurection

  
The brass screws on the four corners of the carb are fillister head screws. 
Check your local ace hardware as they have a huge selection of hard to locate 
fasteners. I have a spare parts carb in the garage that may have the part you 
are wanting. I got it to use for parts but many of my internal parts were fine. 
Let me dig it out when I get home from work and I'll know more. 
-Cale 
51 1/2 ton

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 31, 2013, at 7:41 PM, "Robert Westmoreland" 
<mailto:rl_westmoreland%40yahoo.com> wrote:

> Well i did it. Tore into the one barrel carb. All wwas going well until 
> trying to put the screws back int the shaft in the throttle body and snapped 
> it off. I tried drilling it out screwing up the shaft. Anyone know where i 
> might locate another shaft for a one barrel rochester with manual choke? Also 
> the brass screws?
> The craftmanship on these old vehicles is really impressive. But if you are 
> reading this you already kow that.
> 
> 
> From: Nate <mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>
> To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 10:47 PM
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Resurection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah ~ I've touched one or two of those Rochester series 'B' carbys
> 
> They're dead simple , just be gentle with it ~ they don't like much torque on 
> the four cover screws ~ expect some weeping of fuel 'round the gasket joint , 
> DO NOT over tighten those screws else you'll ruin it beyond repair .
> 
> Depending on it's over all condition , you may not even need a kit .
> 
> Just take it apart over a clean light colored towel as there's a BB in the 
> accelerator pump that always seems to fall out .
> 
> When you're re assembling it , be very careful to not catch the float on the 
> gasket as you replace the cover , this will bend the float tang and make it 
> run way too rich .
> 
> Remember : the carby is the _VERY_LAST_THING_ you touch during any tune up ! 
> valves , then points gap (.016") then ignition timing (ball on pointer) then 
> spark plugs gapped to .035 , then you can begin thinking about touching the 
> carby .
> 
> The original 216 has a Carter W1 carby , this is a very good carby indeed ! .
> 
> Mostly they've been replaced by Rochester Leaks-A-Lot Series 'B' .
> 
> Have fun , don't get P.O.'d when you get stuck or one dist cap spring 
> crumbles the *instant* you touch it etc. .
> 
> -Nate
> Bob wrote :
> >
> > Thanks Nate,
> > I'll keep that in mind after i get it fired up. Took the carb off this 
> > afternoon and got it soaking. You ever rebuilt an old one barrel? If so, is 
> > there much to it?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58

[Robert Westmoreland]

You may want to check on ebay.





 From: Nicholasm 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 1:24 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58
 


  
Hi Guys,
I am currently trying to get my Dad's 58 Apache up and running. I am in need of 
a few items, hopefully someone can help me out.

I need a set of PAINTED headlight bezels from a 58/59 Chevy. I am also looking 
for a set of ORIGINAL,dull is ok, CHROME Bumper Guards from a 58/59 GMC.

Thanks a bunch and Keep on Truckin.


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hey,
Here are some chrome ones on ebay. Don't know if this is a good price or not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-1959-Chevy-headlight-bezel-chrome-/171040365783?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d2ccdcd7&vxp=mtr





 From: Nicholasm 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 1:24 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58
 


  
Hi Guys,
I am currently trying to get my Dad's 58 Apache up and running. I am in need of 
a few items, hopefully someone can help me out.

I need a set of PAINTED headlight bezels from a 58/59 Chevy. I am also looking 
for a set of ORIGINAL,dull is ok, CHROME Bumper Guards from a 58/59 GMC.

Thanks a bunch and Keep on Truckin.


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58

[Robert Westmoreland]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-GMC-Pickup-Truck-Headlight-Bezel-3100-3200-1958-1959-/261216589503?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd1b8d6bf&vxp=mtr

some painted ones




 From: Nicholasm 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 1:24 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58
 


  
Hi Guys,
I am currently trying to get my Dad's 58 Apache up and running. I am in need of 
a few items, hopefully someone can help me out.

I need a set of PAINTED headlight bezels from a 58/59 Chevy. I am also looking 
for a set of ORIGINAL,dull is ok, CHROME Bumper Guards from a 58/59 GMC.

Thanks a bunch and Keep on Truckin.


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

[Robert Westmoreland]

Dave,
 The kit i purchased at NAPA came with an instruction sheet. The number on the 
sheet is GF10413. I did a search on yahoo but didn't come up with anything. If 
you would like i can email you a .pdf copy from work.  Just let me know if this 
is what you are referring to. By the way, i was just looking it over again and 
it says Chevy 6 cyl. (also pontiac 6 -Canada) with heat insulator block does 
not require a flange gasket.



From: Deve Krehbiel 

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket
 


  
Are there tuneup specs for the Roch new style 235/261 setup? I could use
both really. I am putting together an engine tuneup guide and this would be
a good idea to also include?

Deve
www.speedprint.com/Deves50

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Jones
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 7:17 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

Another good reason to use gaskets on both sides is the parts book calls for
it ... "INSULATOR, Gasket, use on both sides".  The Carburetor Bulletin
(Form 4958F) for 1937-1952 passenger cars and same trucks (but up 1953) also
show a flange gasket (carb to insulator) and at the manifold.  The bulletin
also has the tune up specs if you want them.

I've never seen an automotive application that did not have a gasket at the
carburetor...  interesting.

Al Jones
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Roy
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 6:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

You will get all kinds of opinions but here is my experience with my 216.
Spacer and manifold should be both dead flat so shouldn't need gasket and I
suppose one could get them both that way with some effort. I tried and
always had some small amount of leakage. Looked all over the internet to get
it "right". Happened to look at LMC's catalog and see that they have both
top and bottom gaskets. Gave it a try and no leaks. Works good, no issues
AND using the two gaskets makes it MUCH easier to get the inboard nut on the
manifold stud. My conclusion is there is no reason not to use both and I
have found two reasons why its a good thing.

Roy
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon

- Original Message -
From: Robert
To:
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 5:46 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

Gettin ready to put my carb back on the 216 and wasn't sure if i am suppose
to put a gasket between the intake an space for carb. I know their should be
one between carb and space. Can anyone tell me?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hi Roy,
 Thanks for your reply. Just have a question about the gasket that you put at 
the bottom, was it the kind with the metal in it?

From: Roy 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

  
You will get all kinds of opinions but here is my experience with my 216. 
Spacer and manifold should be both dead flat so shouldn't need gasket and I 
suppose one could get them both that way with some effort. I tried and always 
had some small amount of leakage. Looked all over the internet to get it 
"right". Happened to look at LMC's catalog and see that they have both top and 
bottom gaskets. Gave it a try and no leaks. Works good, no issues AND using the 
two gaskets makes it MUCH easier to get the inboard nut on the manifold stud. 
My conclusion is there is no reason not to use both and I have found two 
reasons why its a good thing.

Roy
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon

- Original Message - 
From: Robert 
To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 5:46 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

Gettin ready to put my carb back on the 216 and wasn't sure if i am suppose to 
put a gasket between the intake an space for carb. I know their should be one 
between carb and space. Can anyone tell me?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: tail lights

[Robert Westmoreland]

Hi Nate,
 Thanks for the info. I agree that the bracket doesn't make them worth that. 
Not sure what you mean by your statement about UNLESS YOU HAVE INTEGRATED TURN 
SIGNALS AND 
TAILLIGHTS NOW , THEY WON'T QUITE WORK . I haven't installed turn signals on 
this truck yet and am needing more knowledge before i attempt to. Is there 
anything on the group site or elsewhere that would be educational for me?
Thanks,
Robert



 From: Nate 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 2:08 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: tail lights
 


  

Those look very nice but ;

They're standard Chinese copies of 1931 Brand 'F' "A' Model taillights with two 
separate bulbs in them .

I see these lamps for sale every where for $20 each , I can't imagine the 
brackets make them worth $152.00 ! .

For saY $40 ~ $50 EACH AND YOU DON'T MIND _fORD_ PARTS ON YOUR VINTAGE cHEVY , 
THEY'D BE NICE BUT UNLESS YOU HAVE INTEGRATED TURN SIGNALS AND TAILLIGHTS NOW , 
THEY WON'T QUITE WORK .

-Dang caps lock again  , sorry .

-Nate
Robert Asked  :
>
> Have any of you put these on your truck? If so, are they assembled so that 
> you can also have turn signals? if anyone has them on a truck can you post a 
> pic so i can see how well they look installed?
> 
> Thanks, Robert
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STOP-Taillights-w-Plate-Bracket-All-Black-Universal-Stepside-Truck-Pickup-/151049417352?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1951%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3ATruck&hash=item232b3f3288&vxp=mtr
>


 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves

[Robert Westmoreland]

No, this is on a 1/2 ton 3100.



 From: "corval...@peoplepc.com" 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 4:54 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
 


  
Is this a 2-ton? Each wheel cylinder should have a bleeder. If you don't see
one, they've been broken off. They rust in and won't turn. Bill in Oregon

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 12:04 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves

Hi Yaull, 
Is there a way to add bleeder valve to each wheel cylinder on old 51 Chevy
truck. I see a screw head at back of drums but no bleeder valves.
Thanks Robert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves

[Robert Westmoreland]

There is no caliper. This is on a1/2 ton 3100 51 chevy truck. It has a wheel 
cylinder that presses the brake shoes out against the brake drums.





 From: Donald Smith 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
 


  
take that screw out i thank but look and see if that screw is holding the 
caliper or going into the caliper if it is going into the caliper you can put 
in a bleeder valve or you may have to upgrade the caliper


From: Robert 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 2:04 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves


  
Hi Yaull,
Is there a way to add bleeder valve to each wheel cylinder on old 51 Chevy 
truck. I see a screw head at back of drums but no bleeder valves.
Thanks Robert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Bendix Brake bleeder valves

[Robert Westmoreland]

    Thanks Nate,
 I disassembled one today and it had some pitting in the cylinder so i think 
i'm just gonna take my kits back to NAPA and get new cylinders there. Most of 
there parts are pretty good, don't you think?





 From: Nate 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 6:04 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Bendix Brake bleeder valves
 


  

There's only one hydraulic cylinder per wheel , each one has it's own bleeder 
valve .

Id they're broken off , I'd scrap the cylinder , brandy new top quaLITYbENDIX 
OR wAGNER ONES ARE AVAILABLE FROM rOCKaUTO (damn caps lock) , NAPA and other 
fine FLAPS , some partshaus' sell crappy off brand cylinders you don't want as 
they're dangerous .

Once in a blue moon you can use an " Easy - Out " to remove the broken off 
bleeder screw but that's rare ~ most of the time the Easy-Out snaps off too .

If the cylinders are not leaking , you can hold them in place and use some 
.002" shim stock *gently* worked in past the rubber cups , bleed *very* gently 
else you'll blow the cups out of the cylinders while you have the drums off .

-Nate
Robert  wrote :
>
> No, this is on a 1/2 ton 3100.
> 
> 
> 
>  From: "corvallis@..." 
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 4:54 PM
> Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
> 
> 
> 
>   
> Is this a 2-ton? Each wheel cylinder should have a bleeder. If you don't see
> one, they've been broken off. They rust in and won't turn. Bill in Oregon
> 
> _ 
> 
> From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 12:04 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
> 
> Hi Yaull, 
> Is there a way to add bleeder valve to each wheel cylinder on old 51 Chevy
> truck. I see a screw head at back of drums but no bleeder valves.
> Thanks Robert
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-Chevy-truck] clutch-head screw removal

[Robert Westmoreland]

I have cut a slot in the head of screws before with a hacksaw and used a 
flathead screw driver to remove them when stripped out.




From: Deve Krehbiel 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 9:08 AM
Subject: RE: [old-Chevy-truck] clutch-head screw removal

  
These days they make electric drill drivers that have a hammer action. They are 
very portable and very nice to use. Like this one (the one on the left):

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2697-22-18-Volt-2-Inch-2-Tool/dp/B002WJH9WO/ref=sr_1_83?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375535140&sr=1-83

Our local lumber yard had that kit on sale for $200 so I picked them up. Now I 
couldnt live without them.

-Original Message-
From: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike & Inez Mail
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 1:04 AM
To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-Chevy-truck] clutch-head screw removal

Try an impact driver, it uses the same clutch head bit, but you strike the 
driver with a big hammer, that twists out the screw.
Mike 50 3100

HI
Dismanteling interior of 46' pickup interior. Some of you have been there. 
Have worked all day and have 7 screws our and three with ruined heads (cammed 
out) which I can't get out.

The problem is rust. I am using a fresh clutch head bit in a 1/4 inch drive 
ratchet. I don't have enough power in my hands to use a straight driver. I 
douse each screw several times with Kroil penitrant. I take it slow and use as 
much downward pressure as I can. Some are so frozen that either the bit starts 
to twist or the bit cams out ruining the screw head.

I tried Alden Grabit bolt and damage screw extractors to no avail. I tried 
drilling but the screw head is really, really hard. I dull a fresh HSS drill in 
about 20 seconds.

Should I buy a left hand drill? A carbide drill?

Should I use heat on the screw head?

Should I take a die grinder and carbide bit and grind off the head and 
hopefully deal with the remaining stub somehow?

Has anyone here been there - done that?

Tom 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] I saw a video with an old Chevy truck and started to watch it

[Robert Westmoreland]

That's amazing. Makes you appreciate what limbs you have but awesome how you 
can learn to adapt with what you don't.





 From: Lon Gowan 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 1:23 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] I saw a video with an old Chevy truck and started to 
watch it
 


  
I started to watch it because of the truck in the background, I watched the 
whole thing because of the man in the foreground . . .

http://youtu.be/qiLDMBDPCEY

Lon


From: Nate 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 2:01 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : New to the group


  

WELCOME TOM ! .

Don't be afraid to ask , the folks here know everything , I've never been able 
to stump them .

I used to have a '55 Task Force Chevy Tow Truck , boy howdy do I ever miss it 
now .

-Nate
Tom  wrote :
>
> HI all. My name is Tom and I live in Surprise, AZ.. Yes that is a real 
> place..  I have decided that I need an old Chevy in my garage..  My last was 
> a 1956 GMC with a 283 conversion that I owned back in 1974.  I'm in no rush 
> to acquire a truck as I need to learn what to watch out for. So I'll be 
> lurking and asking questions..
> 
>Tom
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling

[Robert Westmoreland]

Thanks Ken,

 Would you happen to have a part number for that filter to save me some 
research? Did you just cut the line and couple with hose or use flarring tool 
and fittings to it?

Robert





 From: Ken Cluley 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling
 


  
On the fuel filter, I've run an inline filter for the past several years 
mounted on the frame just a few inches from the tank cutoff valve.  Easy to 
change out when needed.
 
Ken

From: Allen Jones 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"  
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 6:33 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling






Shouldn’t be coming out of the hose – this hose is what feeds the rocker rail – 
and the rocker rail feeds the rockers.  Is yours cracked or broken?  If so, 
time to replace it.  Also, what Bill in Oregon said.
 
AL Jones
’50 3100
 
From:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 5:49 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling
 
  
 Thanks for all the replies. I took off the valve cover and noticed while 
running that oil is coming out of what looks like a hose in about the middle in 
a pretty good stream. I assume this is where it should be coming from and all 
is good. Any responses to this is appreciated. 
 
Took my gas tank out and put some pieces of chain in it and shook it around, 
over all looks pretty good. 
 
Anyone ever put fuel filter in line between gas tank and fuel pump? In pictures 
that i find on the internet all seem to show up next to carb.
 
Robert


---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com,  wrote:
I would say a goodly amount.  Is this the first time you have noticed?  One 
time I saw where half of the rockers had lots of oil and the other half didn’t. 
 Someone installed one of the rocker shafts upside down.  Rotated it correctly 
and all had plenty of oil…
 
Al Jones
’50 3100
 
From:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of rl_westmoreland@...
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2013 2:13 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oiling
 
  
Hi All,
Should there be a lot or little oil coming in the top of the engine around the 
lifters. I have removed the valve cover gasket and can lift the valve cover off 
after i shut the engine off after running for a few minutes and not much oil is 
present. Is this normal or should there be a good bit coming up inside valve 
cover and then draining back down thru the holes?

Thanks, Robert




 

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Fuel Filters

[Robert Westmoreland]

Thanks Nate,
 That's good to know because it does. Went out and put my hands on it last 
night. I thought it was some type of hose but is actually a tube. All looks 
good.
Ordered me some cab corners the other day and hope to get them on soon with 
help from my brother (bodyman for some 50 years).
 
Robert



From: "nathan.h...@lacity.org" 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 10:08 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Fuel Filters

  
They should always be placed as close to the carby as possible , never before 
the fuel pump .
 
Also , the oil tube in the middle of the rocker shafts ,has an open end for 
overflow and this , ideally  will have lots of oil runnng out if it .
 
-Nate

Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: wheels of fortune

[Robert Westmoreland]

I started watching, got sleepy and so i set my DVR to record. I started 
watching the next day and had only recorded about an hours worth. Probably 
because my wife had the dvr to record some of he junk like love it or list it. 
O well, what i did see was good.

Robert    

51 3100





 From: "nathan.h...@lacity.org" 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, October 7, 2013 6:09 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: wheels of fortune
 


  
Holy cow ! .

I thought it'd go for maybe $20 K .

I wish I could have watched it as there was lotsa good stuff there .

Is Charlie going to make a full rep[ort ? .
-Nate

 


---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com,  wrote:


Old cars and trucks being actuioned off in Pierce Nebraska. 1958 Cameo Chevy 
pickup went for $145,000. Big money out there! 

It's on the History Channel tonight..

Re: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

[Robert Westmoreland]

We have several stations in SC that have ethanol free premium. Most all Hickory 
Point stations have it. Also have at least one station that carries regular

 & premium ethanol free.




On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 2:42 PM, Mark Noakes  wrote:
 
  

I've been buying 100% pump gas for a while in TN. It is definitely more 
expensive by quite a bit. It is also not widely available, and sometimes it is 
regular and sometimes premium only.

Mark N

Oct 9, 2013 07:30:52 AM, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>

 

I don’t think they sell straight gas at the pump anymore… anywhere.  I buy bulk 
straight gas (300 gals at a time) and it actually costs more than your 10% 
ethanol.
 

 

Al Jones

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of nathan.h...@lacity.org
>
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 5:17 PM
>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

 

  

 Use regular as the I6 engines are very low compression and prefer low octane 
fuels .

 

I don't live where ethanol free Motor Fuels are sold but I'd never use ethanol 
if I didn't have to .

 

YMMV Etc.

 

-Nate

>

>
---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

1.) I still have my original 216 motor in my 1949 3600. Is it better for gas 
mileage and general wear and tear to use Non-ethanol gas? If so should I use 
the premium or regular stuff.
>

>

>
Thanks guys.

Re: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

[Robert Westmoreland]

You may want to try some sea foam in her sometime. Keeps parts clean and helps 
get the gum out.





On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 10:45 PM, Arizona Pride!  
wrote:
 
  
Randy Rundle of Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts, told me to put in a little 
less than a pint of diesel fuel, every time I filled up my 1950 Chevy; during 
my trip cross country, after the Lambrecht Auction.  Before I did that, I got 
vapor locked, in NM; after I started adding the diesel; no more vapor lock.  
The diesel does something to absorb some of the ethanol; exactly what, I don't 
know.

The auction was a hoot and a combination of a gypsy carnival/soy bean field, 
mud run, good ol boy soiree.   People were bidding like it was monopoly money 
and other people were scratching their heads trying to figure out the psych up 
to the auction that created the frenzy.  The locals all turned out to witness 
the circus and were all just wonderful to meet.   People were selling 
everything from fudge to beef jerky in their drive way stands.   The Lambrecht 
Chevy Building was a Mecca to which everyone was drawn to take photos, right in 
the center of Pierce.  On auction day, I parked my Aztec Tan 1950 More Door 
Chevy, right smack dab, in front of the building and it became a photo prop for 
the day.  That was my own contribution to the weekends excitement.   When I 
came back to retrieve the Chevy, an older gent, who had spent the day sitting 
in the shade and watching all of the people, said he figures over 500 people 
took pictures of my car  during
 the day.   Well, the next day, when anyone saw me driving it; they would say 
"Isn't that the car that was parked in front of Lambrecht's yesterday"?  And, 
that would start a whole new conversation.

Saturday AM, before going to the auction, I watched a patriotic parade in old 
downtown Norfolk. Being as there are many small towns in that area; every Jr 
and High School band within 50 miles was in the parade.  That was the most 
bands that I have ever seen in 70 years of parade watching.

Saturday night, I went to the Extra Special Cruise In at the Norfolk Sonic 
Drive In.   It was the biggest turn out they had ever had; as there were 
vintage/collector cars from all over the country.    Once again, many people 
asked if my car was in front of Lambrecht's on Saturday.

I did have Carby problems, in addition to vapor locking, one time.   Turns out 
the float was set way too high and the bowl over filled and started leaking.  
Not only that, but the garage that supposedly got my cat road worthy, also 
forgot to connect the accelerator pump external linkage and so I used my choke 
a lot.  That is until a JC auto shop, instructor, in La Junta, CO, inspected 
the carboy and adjust the float and connected the accelerator pump.   My carboy 
still leaks and will get it properly fixed now that I am home.

Only had rain one day, fierce NE wind blew off my magnetic reflective sign that 
read ARIZONA OR RUST, missed the flooded parts of the South Platte and got out 
of Nebraska, two days before the blizzard hit.

I fell in love with the Chevy as it cruised along at 65 MPH with 19 MPG; after 
the carboy was temporarily fixed.

Highlights:  seeing that Cameo pickup sell for $140,000, seeing a guy spend 
$2,000 on a rusted out 1950 Deluxe Chevy to get $4,000 worth of SS trim, 
bumpers with guards and wings and front and back fender gravel shields, a radio 
and Deluxe Hood Ornament;  auctioneers working of of a flat bed trailer being 
pulled up and down the rows of cars, dozens of seniors with walkers traipsing 
through the mud, just to experience this once in a life time event.

Lowlight:  all of the neglect and rust in all of those wonderful Cheys.

Last night on the road; finally got to sleep in a teepee at the Holbrook 
Wigwam; which was a boyhood dream.  You see, my Dad thought they were too 
garish, back in the 50's and wouldn't stay in those type of Route 66  
artsy/touristy places.

Even with the supposedly repaired items coming back to get me; I had a great 
time.



On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 7:00 PM, Robert Westmoreland 
 wrote:
 
  
We have several stations in SC that have ethanol free premium. Most all Hickory 
Point stations have it. Also have at least one station that carries regular

 & premium ethanol free.



On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 2:42 PM, Mark Noakes  wrote:
 
  

I've been buying 100% pump gas for a while in TN. It is definitely more 
expensive by quite a bit. It is also not widely available, and sometimes it is 
regular and sometimes premium only.

Mark N

Oct 9, 2013 07:30:52 AM, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>

 

I don’t think they sell straight gas at the pump anymore… anywhere.  I buy bulk 
straight gas (300 gals at a time) and it actually costs more than your 10% 
ethanol.
 

 

Al Jones

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of nathan.h...@lacity.org