Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-21 Thread Ken Wagner
Hey guys; You all were so generous with your input on what to do with my 235 
that needs serious work.
The block is .o60 overbore now with a damaged cylinder that will need sleeved. 
The remaining cyls all had 125-135 compression but don't know if the pistons 
still fit with prescribed tolerance. If I can hold them at .060 and sleeve the 
other one at .060, that would be my preference. Several machinists I have 
spoken to says it is OK to go .080 and pistons are available. Any one out there 
have experience with .080 overbore either neg or positive? Comments I have 
locally say there is plenty of iron there to bore it out, others say it will 
cause overheating.
Ideally I would like a whole engine that just needs a basic overhaul. I would 
think in AZ it wouldn't be too hard, but not having too much luck. Heads are at 
a premium as they say close to 90% are cracked and about 50% are repairable. 
Mine is cracked and NOT repairable.
 
Any experience with .080 overbore would be helpful.
As always thanks much
Ken

From: Ken Wagner 
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com" 
Sent: Thursday, September 8, 2011 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal


  
James, thanks for the generous offer. If I was a 100 miles away, I'd be 
knockin' on your door this morning, but I am in extreme SE  corner of AZ.
Got lots of good responses to my question. My plan is to jack the tranny up 
slightly, block it, and separate the engine and pull it out. I have removed 
passenger side front fender, inner fender, radiator and support frame and all 
the other stuff that hangs on the engine. The hood will come off this weekend 
when my son can help---then the fun starts.
Thanks a bunch for your offer and advice.
Ken

From: James Tye 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2011 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

  
I got in on this thread late.  Sounds to me like the engine is toast.  I am 
still in Northwest MO and I have a 235 block out of a 54 engine I'd give you 
just to make space if you were nearby enough to make it practical.  I've pulled 
a few engines and it takes more time but fewer valium and tylenol to first 
remove the transmission and then the engine, unless you have the cab off, too.  
The hood usually has tocome off as well as the radiator and the radiator 
support.  I have seen removals where the radiator support top piece was cut, 
but I don't like to do it that way.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-08 Thread Ken Cluley
Ken
 
If your hood fits well now make sure you carefully mark the mounting bolt 
locations.  It'll save you some headaches in trying to get the thing adjusted.
 
Ken

--- On Thu, 9/8/11, Ken Wagner  wrote:


From: Ken Wagner 
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com" 
Date: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 11:23 AM


James, thanks for the generous offer. If I was a 100 miles away, I'd be 
knockin' on your door this morning, but I am in extreme SE  corner of AZ.
Got lots of good responses to my question. My plan is to jack the tranny up 
slightly, block it, and separate the engine and pull it out. I have removed 
passenger side front fender, inner fender, radiator and support frame and all 
the other stuff that hangs on the engine. The hood will come off this weekend 
when my son can help---then the fun starts.
Thanks a bunch for your offer and advice.
Ken

From: James Tye 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2011 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal


  
I got in on this thread late.  Sounds to me like the engine is toast.  I am 
still in Northwest MO and I have a 235 block out of a 54 engine I'd give you 
just to make space if you were nearby enough to make it practical.  I've pulled 
a few engines and it takes more time but fewer valium and tylenol to first 
remove the transmission and then the engine, unless you have the cab off, too.  
The hood usually has tocome off as well as the radiator and the radiator 
support.  I have seen removals where the radiator support top piece was cut, 
but I don't like to do it that way.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-08 Thread Ken Wagner
James, thanks for the generous offer. If I was a 100 miles away, I'd be 
knockin' on your door this morning, but I am in extreme SE  corner of AZ.
Got lots of good responses to my question. My plan is to jack the tranny up 
slightly, block it, and separate the engine and pull it out. I have removed 
passenger side front fender, inner fender, radiator and support frame and all 
the other stuff that hangs on the engine. The hood will come off this weekend 
when my son can help---then the fun starts.
Thanks a bunch for your offer and advice.
Ken

From: James Tye 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2011 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal


  
I got in on this thread late.  Sounds to me like the engine is toast.  I am 
still in Northwest MO and I have a 235 block out of a 54 engine I'd give you 
just to make space if you were nearby enough to make it practical.  I've pulled 
a few engines and it takes more time but fewer valium and tylenol to first 
remove the transmission and then the engine, unless you have the cab off, too.  
The hood usually has tocome off as well as the radiator and the radiator 
support.  I have seen removals where the radiator support top piece was cut, 
but I don't like to do it that way.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread James Tye
I got in on this thread late.  Sounds to me like the engine is toast.  I am 
still in Northwest MO and I have a 235 block out of a 54 engine I'd give you 
just to make space if you were nearby enough to make it practical.  I've pulled 
a few engines and it takes more time but fewer valium and tylenol to first 
remove the transmission and then the engine, unless you have the cab off, too.  
The hood usually has tocome off as well as the radiator and the radiator 
support.  I have seen removals where the radiator support top piece was cut, 
but I don't like to do it that way.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread harley davidson
If it's out do the entire engine . Money well spent in the long run .
  Wolf


I would check on the pistons first. See what over sizes are available then
go from there. These old sixes are pricey to over haul and cheap to get
another engine pulled from a car or truck someone is rodding out. Another
option is to sleeve that cylinder. This could keep you from buying a whole
set of new pistons and a total rebore. This option is kinda pricey too, but
may be cheaper than a complete rebore and all new pistons. Check with you
machine shop and do some figures to see what will work out best for you. The
060 is an indicator it has been bored 60 thousands over the stock bore.




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RE: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread Green, Steven D.
Ken:

Nobody mentioned it, but I would "remove, not cut" the radiator support.  I've 
seen many of these that have had the top bar and cross supports hacked off 
during an engine transplant.  Sometimes their neatly welded back, many times 
NOT.

Steve
1953 3100
1952 3600
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Ken Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal



Rick, Ken and Bill, Thanks for your input. Your advice is exactly what I wanted 
to hear. I think I misunderstood my friend when he said to pull the whole thing 
as a unit.
Got another question for you all. CYLINDER RE-BORING.
Cyl. #4 is in bad shape. Looks like maybe a broken ring pretty well scored it 
up. Thought maybe I could have the engine rebored, but after cleaning up the 
top of the pistons, I see .060 stamped on the top. That means it has already 
been re-bored? And what is the liklilhood that I can have it bored another 20 
or so?
Not looking good.
As always thanks for your input.
Ken Wagner

From: Rick Wagner mailto:nlinesix%40gmail.com>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2011 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
out.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken 
mailto:whetstone.retreat%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi gang.
> Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
>
> I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> below and behind the cross member.
> I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> the engine if salvageable)
>
> My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> Thanks, KEn
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread Rick Wagner
I would check on the pistons first. See what over sizes are available then
go from there. These old sixes are pricey to over haul and cheap to get
another engine pulled from a car or truck someone is rodding out. Another
option is to sleeve that cylinder. This could keep you from buying a whole
set of new pistons and a total rebore. This option is kinda pricey too, but
may be cheaper than a complete rebore and all new pistons. Check with you
machine shop and do some figures to see what will work out best for you. The
060 is an indicator it has been bored 60 thousands over the stock bore.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 8:22 AM, Ken Wagner wrote:

> **
>
>
> Rick, Ken and Bill, Thanks for your input. Your advice is exactly what I
> wanted to hear. I think I misunderstood my friend when he said to pull the
> whole thing as a unit.
> Got another question for you all. CYLINDER RE-BORING.
> Cyl. #4 is in bad shape. Looks like maybe a broken ring pretty well scored
> it up. Thought maybe I could have the engine rebored, but after cleaning up
> the top of the pistons, I see .060 stamped on the top. That means it has
> already been re-bored? And what is the liklilhood that I can have it bored
> another 20 or so?
> Not looking good.
> As always thanks for your input.
> Ken Wagner
>
> From: Rick Wagner 
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2011 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal
>
>
> Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
> out.
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken  wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Hi gang.
> > Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> > a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
> >
> > I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> > the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> > bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> > below and behind the cross member.
> > I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> > the engine if salvageable)
> >
> > My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> > AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> > Thanks, KEn
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 
>
>
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
>
> To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
> to:  old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread Ken Cluley
Ken you might try "sleeving" it.  I through a rod a couple of years ago and it 
punched a hole through the cylinder wall but not the block.  Had a machine shop 
put a sleeve in and installed new pistons, rings, etc while we had it apart.  
Engine runs great with excellent compression and oil pressure.
 
Ken

--- On Wed, 9/7/11, Ken Wagner  wrote:


From: Ken Wagner 
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com" 
Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, 8:22 AM


Rick, Ken and Bill, Thanks for your input. Your advice is exactly what I wanted 
to hear. I think I misunderstood my friend when he said to pull the whole thing 
as a unit.
Got another question for you all. CYLINDER RE-BORING.
Cyl. #4 is in bad shape. Looks like maybe a broken ring pretty well scored it 
up. Thought maybe I could have the engine rebored, but after cleaning up the 
top of the pistons, I see .060 stamped on the top. That means it has already 
been re-bored? And what is the liklilhood that I can have it bored another 20 
or so? 
Not looking good. 
As always thanks for your input.
Ken Wagner

From: Rick Wagner 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2011 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
out.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken  wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi gang.
> Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
>
> I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> below and behind the cross member.
> I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> the engine if salvageable)
>
> My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> Thanks, KEn
>
> 
>


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread Ken Wagner
Rick, Ken and Bill, Thanks for your input. Your advice is exactly what I wanted 
to hear. I think I misunderstood my friend when he said to pull the whole thing 
as a unit.
Got another question for you all. CYLINDER RE-BORING.
Cyl. #4 is in bad shape. Looks like maybe a broken ring pretty well scored it 
up. Thought maybe I could have the engine rebored, but after cleaning up the 
top of the pistons, I see .060 stamped on the top. That means it has already 
been re-bored? And what is the liklilhood that I can have it bored another 20 
or so? 
Not looking good. 
As always thanks for your input.
Ken Wagner

From: Rick Wagner 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2011 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
out.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken  wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi gang.
> Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
>
> I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> below and behind the cross member.
> I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> the engine if salvageable)
>
> My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> Thanks, KEn
>
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-06 Thread Rick Wagner
Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
out.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken  wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi gang.
> Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
>
> I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> below and behind the cross member.
> I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> the engine if salvageable)
>
> My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> Thanks, KEn
>
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-06 Thread Ken Cluley
Well, I pulled my 235 (twice - long story) with 3 speed tranny attached.  Of 
course, I had removed the hood.  The clearance was adequate but we had to do a 
little "fishing" of the units as they were being raised and lowered to keep 
from banging into stuff.
 
Ken

--- On Tue, 9/6/11, corval...@peoplepc.com  wrote:


From: corval...@peoplepc.com 
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 7:33 PM


I would not do it that way. I am very cautious and like taking things out in
pieces; tranny out the bottom, engine out the top. 

Seems like an engine with a trans hanging out the back is a long thing, and
they'd be heavy (heavier) together. 

Some vehicles like the MG Midget do it that way but then you have to allow
for vertical clearance as you're going up and out.

.bill in corvallis



  _  

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ken
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 4:58 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal



Hi gang.
Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with 
a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.

I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
below and behind the cross member. 
I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
the engine if salvageable)

My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
Thanks, KEn





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-06 Thread corvallis
I would not do it that way. I am very cautious and like taking things out in
pieces; tranny out the bottom, engine out the top. 

Seems like an engine with a trans hanging out the back is a long thing, and
they'd be heavy (heavier) together. 

Some vehicles like the MG Midget do it that way but then you have to allow
for vertical clearance as you're going up and out.

.bill in corvallis

 

  _  

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ken
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 4:58 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

 

Hi gang.
Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with 
a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.

I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
below and behind the cross member. 
I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
the engine if salvageable)

My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
Thanks, KEn





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:  
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[old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-06 Thread ken
Hi gang.
Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with 
a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.

I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like the 
tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are bolted to. 
As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches below and behind 
the cross member. 
I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and the 
engine if salvageable)

My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
Thanks, KEn





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:  
old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links

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