Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling

On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting dialed 
in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop that 
it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point the arrow 
on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up with the ISO, 
and that's the supposed correct exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop or 
so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really bright 
in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  Shooting 
at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I used the 
flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif data, 
so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/


Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...



--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est








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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen

On May 31, 2012, at 1:44 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...

You should see the server room bondage series someone did a few years back.

 

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Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread luiz felipe
Larry, I'd rather use my meters in the incident light mode - assuming 
they had the option. That's probably the the only difference.


I used the Gossen Pro F for a very looong time, and used to bracket 
since local E-6 development had issues. With C41 I hardly used the 
Gossen, but in studio with the Ds and the Xti I had *always* some 
adjustment. If memory serves, the Xti wanted more than half stop more 
light, and the Ds would be ok with a little less than one stop more 
light. So your results do not look odd, even if I don't use grey cards.


Making adjustment according to the image mood and tonal range of the 
subject is sound procedure IMHO - always done that way, limited to the 
kind of film in use. I do want my whites with less detail and more light 
by default - again some adjustment required from the meter reading. I do 
enjoy building the pic if possible.


will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

lf



Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:31:12 -0700
From: Larry Colen l...@red4est.com
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Flash Meter experiment
Message-ID: 7b7215ab-1ab1-4739-a138-d35ca8180...@red4est.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd 
get

my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a
grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the
f/stop that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50
film.  Point the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at 
what

aperture lines up with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct
exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was
pretty consistently different from the exposure that I ended up 
using,

about a stop or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for
something really bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on
low key digital photos.  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that 
I

could feel confident that if I used the flash meter, and didn't check
the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how
to use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but
likewise, the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish 
to

rely on the flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram
were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the
exif data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual
exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est

--
luiz felipe
luiz.felipe at luizfelipe.fot.br

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Walker
According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to
overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.

http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY

Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
(or them all) to measure its contribution.


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.
  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.

 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.
  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if
 I used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never
 blow a shot.

 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to
 use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise,
 the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the
 flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread John Francis
Larry wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.

I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.


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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen


Begin forwarded message:

 From: luiz felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:09:36 PM PDT
 To: pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 
 
 will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

These pictures are just of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 

 From: Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:31:57 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
 point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
 of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to


Heh!  I was using the grey card in those photos as a color reference for 
lightroom.
Shooting two birds in one frame, as it were.


 overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
 camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
 supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
 translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.
 
 http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY
 
 Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
 strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
 that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
 the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
 (or them all) to measure its contribution.
 
 

 From: John Francis jo...@panix.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 5:02:19 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 Larry wrote:
 
 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
 I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
 and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.

They were shot in my living room, and to get the lights where I wanted, I 
didn't have any more room.  Unfortunately, my living room is long, but narrow.  

It was chilly enough she didn't want to do nude photos outdoors last night.  

 

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Paul Stenquist
A flash meter is best used in incident mode. When shooting a model, position it 
in an area where you want a normal, correct exposure (as opposed to a highlight 
or shadow), point it at the camera lens and fire your strobes. The f-stop 
displayed on the meter should be your exposure. To see how much light falloff 
or overexposure you have in other areas, you can reposition the meter and fire 
again. But your shooting stop should be there reading you get in the spot where 
you need a correct exposure. 

Paul
On May 31, 2012, at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
 an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting 
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.  
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop 
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point 
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up 
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.
 
 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop 
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really 
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  
 Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I 
 used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never 
 blow a shot.
 
 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
 that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
 histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
 meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-12 Thread David Mann

On Feb 12, 2006, at 12:17 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:


Sekonic L-358
I believe spot metering attachments are available as accessories.


The accessory is the L-358VF I think.  I have one here but it's been  
ages since I actually used it.


- Dave




Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


  $400-500
 
  Kevin
 
 If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the winner on this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

Thanks to all for suggestions,

Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread David Savage
You should be happy with it.

Dave

On 2/12/06, Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   $400-500
  
   Kevin
 
  If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

 So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the winner on 
 this
 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

 Thanks to all for suggestions,

 Kind regards
 Kevin

 --
 Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
 Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.





Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread Bob Shell

Good choice, Kevin.  You'll love it.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2006, at 6:16 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:


This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



$400-500

Kevin


If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.


So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the  
winner on this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

Thanks to all for suggestions,

Kind regards
Kevin

--
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.





Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Mark Roberts
Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the backdrop
   when the flash is fired.

Sekonic L-358 
I believe spot metering attachments are available as accessories.
 
 
-- 
Mark Roberts
Photography and writing
www.robertstech.com



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Bob Shell


On Feb 11, 2006, at 5:39 PM, Kevin Waterson wrote:


I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the  
backdrop

   when the flash is fired.

Any and all suggestions welcomed



Budget?

Bob



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Waterson

Subject: Flash meter recommedations



I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the 
backdrop

  when the flash is fired.

Any and all suggestions welcomed


If you use a DSLR, use it.
The histogram thingies work.

William Robb 





Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Bob Shell


On Feb 11, 2006, at 6:35 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Sekonic L308B-II
About $100 used.
Flash  ambient metering.
Standard battery.
Small, lightweight.



No spot feature.  I think he said he needed that.

I use and recommend the L-558 .  That's why I asked him his budget.

Bob



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, Bob Shell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Budget?
 
 Bob

$400-500

Kevin
-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If you use a DSLR, use it.
 The histogram thingies work.

Using 6x7

Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread David Savage
On 2/12/06, Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This one time, at band camp, Bob Shell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Budget?
 
  Bob

 $400-500

 Kevin

If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

Dave



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Waterson

Subject: Re: Flash meter recommedations



This one time, at band camp, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


If you use a DSLR, use it.
The histogram thingies work.


Using 6x7


I remember film.
I use a Minolta IIIF in the studio.
It ain't fancy, but it doesn't have to be.

William Robb 





RE: flash meter opinions

2005-08-07 Thread Jens Bladt
I use an old Gossen Lunasix F. It's quite accurate.
A used on e woild probably cost less than 100 USD.
Why do you want 5 degrees?


Jens Bladt
Arkitekt MAA
http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Godfrey DiGiorgi [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 3. august 2005 16:09
Til: PDML
Emne: Re: flash meter opinions


On Aug 3, 2005, at 6:59 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:
 I was looking at buying a new flash meter
 needs to read flash incident reading and
 flash reflective readings. About 5 degrees.
 Any suggestions or horror stories greatfully recieved


The meter I like most is the Sekonic L358. Nice big incident dome,  
spot metering attachments for 1, 5 or 10 degrees.

Godfrey




Re: flash meter opinions

2005-08-07 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, Jens Bladt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I use an old Gossen Lunasix F. It's quite accurate.
 A used on e woild probably cost less than 100 USD.
 Why do you want 5 degrees?

I wish to measure the fall off of reflected light across background
when a flash is used. eg: if I measure the incident reading at
8.0 I then wish to know what the reflected light is. This will
change of course depending on the color of background material.

Kind regards
Kevin


-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: flash meter opinions

2005-08-03 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Aug 3, 2005, at 6:59 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:

I was looking at buying a new flash meter
needs to read flash incident reading and
flash reflective readings. About 5 degrees.
Any suggestions or horror stories greatfully recieved



The meter I like most is the Sekonic L358. Nice big incident dome,  
spot metering attachments for 1, 5 or 10 degrees.


Godfrey



Re: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Stephen Hoffman
Subject: Flash meter


 I assume I will need to buy a flash meter.  Looking at these I
see that you
 fire a test flash at the meter and it gives you an appropriate
f stop which
 is great but what would be the shutter speed?  The sync speed
on my Pentax
 645NII is 1/60 but how does the flash meter know that?

The flash meter doesn't care what the shutter speed is. All it
meters is the flash output. Some of them can be set up to meter
ambient in addition to the flash, but that is something that you
don't really need to think about in the studio.

And what if I used a
 different shutter speed?

Go over your sync speed and you will get the typical flach sync
failure. Go to far under and you may start to see the modeling
lights.
Just shoot at sync and all will be well.

 Any suggestions on a simple yet inexpensive flash meter?  I
see some of them
 cost more than many cameras!

I use an old Minolta IIIF which is very nice, and may be
available used for cheap, as they have been around for a while.
I operate on the KISS system, so I would get the simplest meter
I could get. I find many of them to complicated for what is a
very simple measurement.

 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect
to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?

They don't put a PC socket on that camera? I thought it was
supposed to be a PRO camera.
HAMA makes a hot shoe to PC socket adaptor that is quite cheap.

 Thanks in advance for any help.

Yer welcome
William Robb
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Re: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 7/12/2002 4:38:55 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?
 

Why not just plug them into the X-sync socket on the side of the camera 
instead of getting a hot shoe adapter?

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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RE: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread Stephen Hoffman

Dopey me, I guess I didn't think of that!  Thanks to you and William Robb
for pointing that out.  Hey, I never said I knew what I was doing.

Stephen

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 3:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Flash meter

In a message dated 7/12/2002 4:38:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?


Why not just plug them into the X-sync socket on the side of the camera
instead of getting a hot shoe adapter?

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: flash meter test

2002-06-07 Thread Anthony Farr

The maximum power isn't as important in this circumstance as is the
minimum power setting.  A 640ws or more flash, if it gave 1/16 or smaller
minimum output, would IMO be OK.  You would never regret the highest power
and would always find an occasion when even more would be useful.  To
illustrate my point, when I was a wage slave I used a 6000ws pack driving a
single 2m x 1m softbox, plus a 3200ws pack with 2 flash-heads, plus up to 4
additional 800ws monobloc heads.  Even with all that power on tap there were
many occasions when multi-flashing was required to get f22 or f32 at ISO64.

OTOH my personal Multiblitz kit was made especially for portraiture and has
three monobloc heads at 180 ws each which is plenty for an f8 single or
double portrait at ISO100.  But as general purpose units they are not so
good because they only offer two power settings, full and half.  My kit is
stretched to photograph a group of 10 to 20, and even then I'm either
putting two heads together to act as one light source, or reverting to the
polished dish reflector at the main-light position, which is harder than I
like for people photos.

So my advice is to get the most powerful unit you can afford that also gives
you a small minimum power setting.  Perhaps you should investigate a
pack/head combo around 800ws to 1200ws.  If money was tight you could get
started with a single flash-head but you would then have the option of
getting additional heads for less money than additional monobloc heads would
cost, up to the limit of the power pack which is usually 3 or 4 heads.

To stay on-topic, all my 35mm shots lit by the Multiblitz's were taken with
Pentaxes, and when I moonlighted at work I would use my own cameras,
Pentaxes of course.

Regards,
Anthony Farr


- Original Message -
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 just to see how I may be able to light my basement and
 I was so
 surprised. withthe Af500 and achiever on slave, the
 330 on camera then
 manually fired, the result at 400 iso was F22!!
 white walls
 reflect ALOT. I guess a 640ws flash is way too much
 power to start
 with, and I'm better off with a 320 ws unit, but still
 the price
 difference doesn't seem to be worth it.
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Re: flash meter test

2002-06-07 Thread Brendan

true, but it was a test, with 100 speed it would be
around f8 . I
would still want the higher powered unit since I will
be doing some
location work.

--- Pat White [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a studio setting, with all the light you need,
 why use 400-speed film?  100-speed will give you
 better color, finer grain, and more f-stop
 flexibility.  Only use high-speed film when you have
 to, or if you like the look.
 
 Pat White
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-04 Thread MZ3_fella _

Minolta Flash Meter IV - look for one second hand. Definitely hard to beat.

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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Brendan

Minolta flash meter IV, I'm getting one just after
Xmas, sells for about $300 CAD, or $190 usd 

--- Andy Vu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Dear list,
 I need your recommendation about flash
 meter, which one
 should I buy not too expensive? My set right now is
 pz1p and AF500-FTZ
 Regards,
 Andy
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Monday, December 3, 2001, at 05:53  PM, Andy Vu wrote:

 Dear list,
 I need your recommendation about flash meter, which one
 should I buy not too expensive?

Are you looking for new or used?  I'm a huge fan of the Sekonic L-308b, 
a nice, small, well-laid-out meter.  I've also been impressed by the 
Gossen Sixtomat Flash -- I don't like its handling as much as I like the 
Sekonic, but the Sixtomat will do multiple-pop flash exposure and also 
exposure range.  Both are semi-useful (the multiple-pop exposure is easy 
to do in your head if your meter doesn't offer it, and exposure range 
simply requires you to remember things and use subtraction, but both are 
nice to not have to think about).

Both of these guys are rather spendy new.  The Sekonic was $279 CDN last 
time I checked, and the Gossen is $329.  The Sekonic L-308b seems fairly 
common on the Toronto used market, don't know about the Gossen.

-Aaron
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I will second Aaron's opinion on the Sekonic L208b. Mine has been stone
reliable since I bought it used several years ago. Also it seems to be the
most pocketable ambiant/flash meter around. Don't think that doesn't matter,
a meter in your pocket is far more useful than one in the car a half mile
away.

Ciao,
--graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Flash meter


 On Monday, December 3, 2001, at 05:53  PM, Andy Vu wrote:

  Dear list,
  I need your recommendation about flash meter, which one
  should I buy not too expensive?

 Are you looking for new or used?  I'm a huge fan of the Sekonic L-308b,
 a nice, small, well-laid-out meter.  I've also been impressed by the
 Gossen Sixtomat Flash -- I don't like its handling as much as I like the
 Sekonic, but the Sixtomat will do multiple-pop flash exposure and also
 exposure range.  Both are semi-useful (the multiple-pop exposure is easy
 to do in your head if your meter doesn't offer it, and exposure range
 simply requires you to remember things and use subtraction, but both are
 nice to not have to think about).

 Both of these guys are rather spendy new.  The Sekonic was $279 CDN last
 time I checked, and the Gossen is $329.  The Sekonic L-308b seems fairly
 common on the Toronto used market, don't know about the Gossen.

 -Aaron
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