RE: flash questions
Simply move the flash away from the camera. The angle between lens and flash directions is crutial in getting/avoiding red eyes (whis actually is the flash light hitting the backside of the eye apple (the retina), in a place, visible from the point of view of the lens). Perhaps 8 inches or less will do the trick! Jens Bladt mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Francis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 19. december 2004 08:39 Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Emne: flash questions Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Francis
Re: flash questions
Francis wrote: Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. So long as the flash has its own sensor and your use of bouncing doesn't require more light than the flash can provide, yes it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. How about an off-camera flash setup? Or a flash bracket? Anything that gets the flash further away from the axis of the lens is a good thing. S
Re: flash questions
--- Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I > made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. > The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering > how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is > a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. > Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things > like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I > liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Assuming the ceiling is white and about 2-3M high, +2 f-stops should compensate it. = Alan Chan http://www.pbase.com/wlachan __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Re: Flash questions
Bojidar Dimitrov a écrit: Hi, Thanks Boj, but what I could/cannot see is information on suitable brackets. Did/does Pentax make any? I am not sure about brackets, but with the help of the 5P cords and adapters, you can connect any number of F-type flashes together. You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? I don't think that the 330 FTZ can, but I do not own the 360 either, so I am not totally sure. The 330FTZ can't do sklave flash, only tje 360FGZ Michel
Re: Flash questions
Bojidar wrote: >> You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did >> you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? BD> I don't think that the 330 FTZ can, but I do not own the 360 either, so BD> I am not totally sure. The 360FGZ can act as a slave both in wireless control or as a plain vanilla slave triggered by any other flash. Servus, Alin
Re: Flash questions
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003, Bojidar Dimitrov wrote: > Hello Kostas, > > > I am trying to understand what it will take so as to enable an MZ-5n > > (or and MZ bar the MZ-S) to do contrast-control-sync flash. > > > Could not find anything on Boj's site or on the Pentax UK/US sites. > > It's there. Go to the "Flashes" page and look under "General > Information". All you need is to connect two F-type flashes somehow > (anyhow), and enable contrast-flash on one of them. That's it! One of > the two flashes can be the built-in one. Thanks Boj, but what I could/cannot see is information on suitable brackets. Did/does Pentax make any? You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? Thanks for a most excellent site, Kostas
Re: Flash questions
Hello Kostas, > I am trying to understand what it will take so as to enable an MZ-5n > (or and MZ bar the MZ-S) to do contrast-control-sync flash. > Could not find anything on Boj's site or on the Pentax UK/US sites. It's there. Go to the "Flashes" page and look under "General Information". All you need is to connect two F-type flashes somehow (anyhow), and enable contrast-flash on one of them. That's it! One of the two flashes can be the built-in one. Cheers, Boz -- _\\|//_ Imagination is more important than knowledge... 0(` O-O ')0 A. Einstein ===ooO=(_)=Ooo=== Bojidar D. Dimitrov author and editor, Pentax K-Mount web page [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://kmp.BDimitrov.de/ = <__> <__>
RE: Flash questions
No. You have to repeately post to a thread that has nothing to do with photography, without trimming your reply so that your post is 75 lines long with 1 new line and then you have to claim that you can do this because freedom of speech is protected under the First Amendment (this really impresses every one from places like Europe). You can also get a cool name by posting to the list by using a wireless laptop connection, while driving down the highway in an SUV at a wobbly 40 MPH, with me following behind you. BR From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do I get a cool name now?
Re: RE: Flash questions
Printed and in the binder.Thanks Tom Dave Begin Original Message From: Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 16:16:45 -0500 (EST) To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: Flash questions Thanks, Tom! Very nice explanation. Much appreciated. - jerome Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
RE: Flash questions
Thanks, Tom! Very nice explanation. Much appreciated. - jerome On Fri, 13 Dec 2002, tom wrote: > The camera is still metering for the ambient light. You've set the > sperture/shutter speed for a correct ambient exposure. If you dial > in -1, the camera is telling you that the manual settings will give > you a stop more than the -1 setting on the dial. > > In other words, you've told the camera you want to underexpose by -1, > and it's telling you you're a stop over -1, which is just what you > want. > > Maybe the confusing part is that you expect the meter bar graph to > line up at -1. It's not. It's going to line up in the middle, the > difference being that the middle value is -1. > > Now when you hit the shutter, the flash/camera doesn't care about your > manual settings, it's going to shut the flash off when it senses it's > hit -1. > > Therefore the ambient exposure will be correct, the flash will be a > stop below.
RE: Flash questions
> -Original Message- > From: Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > It's been said on numerous occasions that the exposure > compensation dial > works as flash compensation in M mode. Okay, so if I understand this > correctly, for half intensity, dial in -1 EV of flash > compensation; for > one-third fill, -1 1/3 or -1.5 EV; for one quarter, -2 EV. > Well, even if > that scale is not quite right, the main point is that for > less flash, I'm > supposed to dial negatively correct? Correct. > Well, if the answer is > yes, then > please answer the following: > > Consider a conventional fill-flash setting. I first metered > the scene on > Program mode. Then I set the same exact settings manually > (now in M mode). > Then I flip on the flash unit. Initially, the compensation > bar graph > stays at zero as expected. But as I turn the comp. dial to > the negative > side (less flash?) the bar graph goes up (towards the over > exposure side). > Is this supposed to happen? Yes. The camera is still metering for the ambient light. You've set the sperture/shutter speed for a correct ambient exposure. If you dial in -1, the camera is telling you that the manual settings will give you a stop more than the -1 setting on the dial. In other words, you've told the camera you want to underexpose by -1, and it's telling you you're a stop over -1, which is just what you want. Maybe the confusing part is that you expect the meter bar graph to line up at -1. It's not. It's going to line up in the middle, the difference being that the middle value is -1. Now when you hit the shutter, the flash/camera doesn't care about your manual settings, it's going to shut the flash off when it senses it's hit -1. Therefore the ambient exposure will be correct, the flash will be a stop below. tv
RE: Flash questions
> Did anybody try or used Vivitar 730AF flash for Pentax? > > The spec claims lots of features for very little money, but is unclear > regarding Pentax model. > > Also, it seems to have 1/16 power mode. I tried to figure out, > how this can be > used? It looks like many f-stops (4?) below the meter reading, so it can > hardly be used for fill-flash. Or am I wrong? > > In general, how important are these power settings (1/2, 1/4, ) on > high-end flashes? Could they be used for flash exposure > compensation, or they > have diferent purpose? > > Thanks > Alex > adjustable power manual flash is very useful for adjusting the ambient/fill ratio when doing daylight fill flash. For example if you want a 1:1 ratio, choose a fstop/shutter speed for ambient light and then adjust flash power manually until it gives correct exposure with the fstop already in use. also allows extreme closeup work while keeping the f-stop managable with fast film. third less used feature is the very low power setting allows shortest possible flash duration which is desireable if your trying to freeze extremely fast action of some sort. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Flash questions
At 01:06 PM 11/21/01 -0500, you wrote: >You're both right. The head does drop, but unless you get it off the >camera hotshoe, the distance from the subject tends to make it a >"point source". Moving it closer (and stopping down, perhaps using >a tissue or two to permit it to shut off properly) makes for >more effective shots. Since I do a lot of macro and was thinking about the 280T, is there a problem with using it off-camera? Gary J. Sibio - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Flash questions
280T is a poor choice if you need macro, although if you take it off the hot shoe and mount it closer you might have good results. Kent Gittings -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pawel Czarnul Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 10:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Flash questions Hello, I have a couple of flash related questions. I'm using ZX-5n and P30T bodies. I need a flash for: macro photography as well as portraits (bounce and swivel options would be nice). It looks like the best choice is the 280T which has both TTL and manual modes and has all the features I want. B&H and Adorama sell them for 150$. What do you think of this price? Is there a better place to buy it (new)? One more question. Boz's site claims that the 220T is incompatible with manual bodies. Is that true? I know it offers TTL for ZX-5ns but what about the P30T? Thanks for your replies. Pawel _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . ** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses. www.mimesweeper.com ** - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Flash questions
The import version of the AF280T is available for < $120 at Focus Camera. I bought one, and it's exactly the same as the domestic version. Some people think that the warranty is invalid for import versions, but Focus says they will make good on any defect. Two points here: (1) a problem is unlikely, and (2) $120 isn't exactly a life-altering purchase, even if it went bad. John -Original Message- From: Pawel Czarnul [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 11:53 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject:Flash questions Hello, I have a couple of flash related questions. I'm using ZX-5n and P30T bodies. I need a flash for: macro photography as well as portraits (bounce and swivel options would be nice). It looks like the best choice is the 280T which has both TTL and manual modes and has all the features I want. B&H and Adorama sell them for 150$. What do you think of this price? Is there a better place to buy it (new)? One more question. Boz's site claims that the 220T is incompatible with manual bodies. Is that true? I know it offers TTL for ZX-5ns but what about the P30T? Thanks for your replies. Pawel _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
