Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-21 Thread Boris Liberman

On 7/19/2010 10:24 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing,
and what they do to fix it.


Larry, unlike others in this thread, I use Katz Eye screen with focusing 
aids (split screen, etc). If opportunity presents itself I might try the 
KE screen without any aids, but stock screen of Pentax cameras, my eyes 
and A 50/1.2 don't work together at all.


I think that practice may help. Also apparently, sometimes it helps if 
shoot with the other eye wide open...


Boris

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-21 Thread Larry Colen

On Jul 21, 2010, at 4:54 AM, Boris Liberman wrote:

 On 7/19/2010 10:24 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing,
 and what they do to fix it.
 
 Larry, unlike others in this thread, I use Katz Eye screen with focusing aids 
 (split screen, etc). If opportunity presents itself I might try the KE screen 
 without any aids, but stock screen of Pentax cameras, my eyes and A 50/1.2 
 don't work together at all.

I found that the stock screens did not work at all well for me for manual 
focusing, and that the katzeye screens really help.  I think that the stock 
screens are optimized for autofocus.  Unfortunately the Pentax autofocus system 
seems to be optimized for manual focus.

Autofocus on the K-x is especially troublesome in this situation because 
without the light up dots, I can't tell what it's focusing on. That and the 
fact that in the light I need it, by the time the camera focuses, whatever I 
wanted to take a picture of is 3 seconds in the past.

There is an aspect of the split screen that it allows your eye to focus on what 
is in the center of the screen, no matter how out of focus it is.

 
 I think that practice may help. Also apparently, sometimes it helps if shoot 
 with the other eye wide open...
 
 Boris
 
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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-21 Thread Doug Franklin

On 2010-07-21 13:13, Larry Colen wrote:


Unfortunately the Pentax autofocus system seems to be
optimized for manual focus.


MARK! :-)

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-21 Thread Rob Studdert
On 21/07/2010, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, unlike others in this thread, I use Katz Eye screen with focusing
 aids (split screen, etc). If opportunity presents itself I might try the KE
 screen without any aids, but stock screen of Pentax cameras, my eyes and A
 50/1.2 don't work together at all.

I've got to agree here, the stock screens are useless when used with a
lens like the A50/1.2. When I use this lens on the K-x with the stock
focus screen I have to shoot and test to confirm focus or else use LV
to get any kind of an acceptable result when the lens is used at large
apertures.

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-20 Thread Larry Colen

On Jul 19, 2010, at 6:36 PM, Doug Brewer wrote:

 Larry Colen wrote:
 I was photographing a friend playing in a small club in Capitola the other 
 night. When I reviewed my photos, I found that an awful lot of them were 
 focused on sharp edges in front of the musician:
 The tip jar, drum kit, microphone etc.
 I understand how this happens with autofocus. The camera is too stupid to 
 know what to focus on and focuses on the sharp edge.  What I don't 
 understand is why this happens on manual focus. *I* should know better.
 One challenge that I have in low light is actually seeing the line of the 
 split prism to try and line that up on the musician. Especially musicians 
 that tend to move around a lot.  As such, I may rely a lot more on the 
 microprism ring, and wonder if I just focus until I see whatever is in that 
 ring come into focus, and not notice that it's not actually the subject that 
 I'm trying to photograph.  More a case of my brain saying something is 
 sharp, press the shutter.
 I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and 
 what they do to fix it.
 I got what I thought was an amusing compliment on my dancing that night.  I 
 had a rather nice slow blues dance with an attractive young lady. 
 Afterwards, she said in a rather husky voice I need a cigarette. 
 Unfortunately, she was married. Even worse, her husband doesn't share.
 I did get a couple shots of the lead singer which turned out pretty well:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4807504309/in/set-72157624409188927/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4808124360/in/set-72157624409188927/
 In the second one Amy Lou isn't as sharp as I'd like,  but I do like the way 
 the composition worked out with Gary (the bass player) in the background.
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 Never understood the fascination with split prisms. They're clunky and 
 self-limiting. Give me a plain matte any day for manual focus.

When I got my K100 I couldn't manually focus with it to save my soul. When I 
got the katzeye, it was like growing back a missing limb.

 
 I suspect you're shooting yourself in the foot here, Larry, by trying to use 
 the split prism and recomposing at f/1.4. You don't have any wiggle room 
 shooting with such a narrow DOF, and I think this could go a long way toward 
 explaining why your focus is off too often. Stop the lens down a couple 
 clicks. This will help with the focus and will also make the photos look like 
 they were taken at night in a club, instead of afternoon in the park.

At ISO 6400, and missing more photos due to subject motion blur than bad focus, 
I'd end up with photos with depth of field, but so much noise, or motion blur, 
you wouldn't see anything.

Most of the screen is matte anyways, so I can try using that section more 
anyways. The focus of my interest is rarely dead center anyways.  Most of the 
situations where I shoot the split prism gets me a lot closer than I could with 
a matte screen. I know this because I'll focus using the matte portion of the 
screen, and check it with the split prism.

Since most of my photography seems to be with fast lenses 77mm or shorter, I 
rarely have any problem with the dark center syndrome with the split prism. 

 Also: Relax. It's only photography.

That it is, but I'm still trying to learn techniques to get better at it.  
 
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RE: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Bob W
[...]
 I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and
 what they do to fix it.
 

I always found it easier to use a plain matte screen, depending on which
focal length I was using.



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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Larry Colen

On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Bob W wrote:

 [...]
 I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and
 what they do to fix it.
 
 
 I always found it easier to use a plain matte screen, depending on which
 focal length I was using.

Please explain how focal length affects it.

Do you find the difference between in focus and out of focus too subtle on a 
wider lens?

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread P N Stenquist


On Jul 19, 2010, at 3:24 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I was photographing a friend playing in a small club in Capitola the  
other night. When I reviewed my photos, I found that an awful lot of  
them were focused on sharp edges in front of the musician:

The tip jar, drum kit, microphone etc.

I understand how this happens with autofocus. The camera is too  
stupid to know what to focus on and focuses on the sharp edge.  What  
I don't understand is why this happens on manual focus. *I* should  
know better.


One challenge that I have in low light is actually seeing the line  
of the split prism to try and line that up on the musician.  
Especially musicians that tend to move around a lot.  As such, I may  
rely a lot more on the microprism ring, and wonder if I just focus  
until I see whatever is in that ring come into focus, and not notice  
that it's not actually the subject that I'm trying to photograph.   
More a case of my brain saying something is sharp, press the  
shutter.


I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually  
focusing, and what they do to fix it.




I simply use a plain matte screen and pick the spot on which I want to  
focus -- frequently an eye. I find that split prisms are a distraction  
for people pics. On my Leica rangefinder, I'm forced to align split  
images, but I still target my spot, and judge the alignment as best I  
can. Targeting the point of focus is the most important step.

Paul


I got what I thought was an amusing compliment on my dancing that  
night.  I had a rather nice slow blues dance with an attractive  
young lady. Afterwards, she said in a rather husky voice I need a  
cigarette. Unfortunately, she was married. Even worse, her husband  
doesn't share.


I did get a couple shots of the lead singer which turned out pretty  
well:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4807504309/in/set-72157624409188927/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4808124360/in/set-72157624409188927/
In the second one Amy Lou isn't as sharp as I'd like,  but I do like  
the way the composition worked out with Gary (the bass player) in  
the background.



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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Christian Skofteland
More reason to hate split-image and micro-prism focusing aids.  I use the plain 
matte screen when manually focusing.


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http://birdofthemoment.blogspot.com

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 12:24:11PM -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
 I was photographing a friend playing in a small club in Capitola the other 
 night. When I reviewed my photos, I found that an awful lot of them were 
 focused on sharp edges in front of the musician:
 The tip jar, drum kit, microphone etc.
 
 I understand how this happens with autofocus. The camera is too stupid to 
 know what to focus on and focuses on the sharp edge.  What I don't understand 
 is why this happens on manual focus. *I* should know better.
 
 One challenge that I have in low light is actually seeing the line of the 
 split prism to try and line that up on the musician. Especially musicians 
 that tend to move around a lot.  As such, I may rely a lot more on the 
 microprism ring, and wonder if I just focus until I see whatever is in that 
 ring come into focus, and not notice that it's not actually the subject that 
 I'm trying to photograph.  More a case of my brain saying something is 
 sharp, press the shutter.
 
 I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and 
 what they do to fix it.
 
 I got what I thought was an amusing compliment on my dancing that night.  I 
 had a rather nice slow blues dance with an attractive young lady. Afterwards, 
 she said in a rather husky voice I need a cigarette. Unfortunately, she was 
 married. Even worse, her husband doesn't share.
 
 I did get a couple shots of the lead singer which turned out pretty well:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4807504309/in/set-72157624409188927/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4808124360/in/set-72157624409188927/
 In the second one Amy Lou isn't as sharp as I'd like,  but I do like the way 
 the composition worked out with Gary (the bass player) in the background.
 
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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http://birdofthemoment.blogspot.com


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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Christian Skofteland
On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 12:43:44PM -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Bob W wrote:
 
  [...]
  I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and
  what they do to fix it.
  
  
  I always found it easier to use a plain matte screen, depending on which
  focal length I was using.
 
 Please explain how focal length affects it.
 
 Do you find the difference between in focus and out of focus too subtle on a 
 wider lens?
 

I think he might mean that for longer focal lengths you are generally using 
smaller maximum apertures and from what i understand and have observed, the 
split-image thingies tend to black out at anything above f4.  Really, a plain 
matte screen is the best tool for manually focusing in my opinion especially in 
low-light situations.

-- 

Christian
-
http://404notfound.blogspot.com
http://birdofthemoment.blogspot.com


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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Jack Davis
Larry,
I may have missed this, but do you use spot focus? Do you use S mode 
wherein you can hold focus and re-compose? For that matter, I don't even know 
what you were shooting with. :-C

Jack


--- On Mon, 7/19/10, P N Stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net wrote:

 From: P N Stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net
 Subject: Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Date: Monday, July 19, 2010, 1:20 PM
 
 On Jul 19, 2010, at 3:24 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 
  I was photographing a friend playing in a small club
 in Capitola the other night. When I reviewed my photos, I
 found that an awful lot of them were focused on sharp edges
 in front of the musician:
  The tip jar, drum kit, microphone etc.
  
  I understand how this happens with autofocus. The
 camera is too stupid to know what to focus on and focuses on
 the sharp edge.  What I don't understand is why this
 happens on manual focus. *I* should know better.
  
  One challenge that I have in low light is actually
 seeing the line of the split prism to try and line that up
 on the musician. Especially musicians that tend to move
 around a lot.  As such, I may rely a lot more on the
 microprism ring, and wonder if I just focus until I see
 whatever is in that ring come into focus, and not notice
 that it's not actually the subject that I'm trying to
 photograph.  More a case of my brain saying something
 is sharp, press the shutter.
  
  I'm curious if other people have this problem when
 manually focusing, and what they do to fix it.
  
 
 I simply use a plain matte screen and pick the spot on
 which I want to focus -- frequently an eye. I find that
 split prisms are a distraction for people pics. On my Leica
 rangefinder, I'm forced to align split images, but I still
 target my spot, and judge the alignment as best I can.
 Targeting the point of focus is the most important step.
 Paul
 
 
  I got what I thought was an amusing compliment on my
 dancing that night.  I had a rather nice slow blues
 dance with an attractive young lady. Afterwards, she said in
 a rather husky voice I need a cigarette. Unfortunately,
 she was married. Even worse, her husband doesn't share.
  
  I did get a couple shots of the lead singer which
 turned out pretty well:
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4807504309/in/set-72157624409188927/
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4808124360/in/set-72157624409188927/
  In the second one Amy Lou isn't as sharp as I'd
 like,  but I do like the way the composition worked out
 with Gary (the bass player) in the background.
  
  
  --
  Larry Colen l...@red4est.com
 sent from i4est
  
  
  
  
  
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 directly above and follow the directions.
 
 
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 directly above and follow the directions.
 


  

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RE: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Bob W
   [...]
   I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually
   focusing, and what they do to fix it.
  
  
   I always found it easier to use a plain matte screen, depending on
   which focal length I was using.
 
  Please explain how focal length affects it.
 
  Do you find the difference between in focus and out of focus too subtle
on
 a wider lens?
 
 
 I think he might mean that for longer focal lengths you are generally
using
 smaller maximum apertures and from what i understand and have observed,
 the split-image thingies tend to black out at anything above f4.  Really,
a plain
 matte screen is the best tool for manually focusing in my opinion
especially in
 low-light situations.

exactly so



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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
Looked at your photos ... My one advice: get closer, frame tighter. :-)

 ... I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and 
 what they do to fix it. ..

I see I'm not alone in my preference for plain matte fresnel focusing
screens. ;-)

Microprism and split prism focusing aids are usually distractions in
SLR viewfinders, for me. I always changed my focusing screen to a
simple, matte fresnel screen (with horizontal/vertical reference lines
preferably) when possible. Longer lenses are easier to focus because
when wide open the in-focus zone is shallow; short lenses are where
focusing aids can help most. With any lens, good crisp contrast when
wide open is the biggest aid to manual focusing, regardless of
focusing screen, lens speed or focal length.

Beyond that, it's a matter of skill through lots of practice.

I find today that I still prefer manual focusing over any autofocus
system on any SLR camera I've tried, and I've found that when I manual
focus my hit it on the nose rate is always much better than when I
allow the AF system to do its thing. Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus,
Panasonic  doesn't matter what the brand. Give me a good,
contrasty lens and a clean focusing screen: it will do better than
most AF systems.

The EVF in the G1 is no exception, except that it makes nailing
critical manual focus even easier than any of the optical reflex
focusing systems I've used.
-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Larry Colen

On Jul 19, 2010, at 3:05 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 Looked at your photos ... My one advice: get closer, frame tighter. :-)

I couldn't exactly get up on stage with the band.  Though I could drop some 
of them tighter.
 
 ... I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, 
 and what they do to fix it. ..
 
 I see I'm not alone in my preference for plain matte fresnel focusing
 screens. ;-)

Interesting, because I found the screens that came with my Pentaxes nearly 
useless for manual focusing.

 
 Microprism and split prism focusing aids are usually distractions in
 SLR viewfinders, for me. I always changed my focusing screen to a
 simple, matte fresnel screen (with horizontal/vertical reference lines
 preferably) when possible. Longer lenses are easier to focus because
 when wide open the in-focus zone is shallow; short lenses are where
 focusing aids can help most. With any lens, good crisp contrast when
 wide open is the biggest aid to manual focusing, regardless of
 focusing screen, lens speed or focal length.

That may be one reason I like my FA77 so much.

 
 Beyond that, it's a matter of skill through lots of practice.

I do try to practice, and to practice different techniques.

 The EVF in the G1 is no exception, except that it makes nailing
 critical manual focus even easier than any of the optical reflex
 focusing systems I've used.

Interestingly I found that manual focus on my FZ-50 to be nearly impossible to 
get right.


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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Rob Studdert
On 20/07/2010, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 Interesting, because I found the screens that came with my Pentaxes nearly 
 useless for manual focusing.

The stock screens in the K-x and K10/20D I find nearly useless for
manual focusing, it's pure guesswork. I spent the week shooting with a
guy who has an A850 (and a load of great glass), it's got a butt ugly
prism hump but the finder view is superb compared to anything from
Pentax currently (and I do truly hate the P645 family finders). I have
a hard drive full of A850 images and I must say give that I was
shooting at the same locations I am just a little jealous of his
results (technically).

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread paul stenquist

On Jul 19, 2010, at 6:28 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

 
 On Jul 19, 2010, at 3:05 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
 
 Looked at your photos ... My one advice: get closer, frame tighter. :-)
 
 I couldn't exactly get up on stage with the band.  Though I could drop some 
 of them tighter.
 
 ... I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, 
 and what they do to fix it. ..
 
 I see I'm not alone in my preference for plain matte fresnel focusing
 screens. ;-)
 
 Interesting, because I found the screens that came with my Pentaxes nearly 
 useless for manual focusing.
 
 
 Microprism and split prism focusing aids are usually distractions in
 SLR viewfinders, for me. I always changed my focusing screen to a
 simple, matte fresnel screen (with horizontal/vertical reference lines
 preferably) when possible. Longer lenses are easier to focus because
 when wide open the in-focus zone is shallow; short lenses are where
 focusing aids can help most. With any lens, good crisp contrast when
 wide open is the biggest aid to manual focusing, regardless of
 focusing screen, lens speed or focal length.
 
 That may be one reason I like my FA77 so much.
 
 
 Beyond that, it's a matter of skill through lots of practice.
 
 I do try to practice, and to practice different techniques.

When I first decided to get serious about  photography, some forty years ago, a 
local pro told me to practice focusing on various things in the room while I 
was watching television. In a dim room, that was good practice. Even today, 
when I get a new camera, I'll spend some time getting used to the focusing 
screen. As I said earlier, I prefer a plain matte screen, although I do like 
the horizontal and vertical lines that Godders mentioned. I'm using the 
standard screens in my K20 and K7 now. No problem. I realize there are better 
options, but they're expensive. If I started missing focus, I'd invest in an 
ultra bright screen, but so far that hasn't been a problem.
Paul
 
 The EVF in the G1 is no exception, except that it makes nailing
 critical manual focus even easier than any of the optical reflex
 focusing systems I've used.
 
 Interestingly I found that manual focus on my FZ-50 to be nearly impossible 
 to get right.
 
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 3:28 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 Interesting, because I found the screens that came with my Pentaxes nearly 
 useless for manual focusing.

The standard Pentax DSLR screens are optimized for brightness, not
manual focusing contrast. I fitted my *ist DS with a customized Katz
Eye screen (no focusing aids) and it was much easier to focus with.

 The EVF in the G1 is no exception, except that it makes nailing
 critical manual focus even easier than any of the optical reflex
 focusing systems I've used.

 Interestingly I found that manual focus on my FZ-50 to be nearly impossible 
 to get right.

Comparing the FZ50 EVF to that of the G1 is like comparing a 9-inch
color television tube screen from 1976 with a modern 42 LCD flat
panel television display. Never mind that the FZ50's teensy little
chip makes for massive amounts of DoF anywhere but at pretty long
telephoto settings ... ]'-)

And with that said, I used to use the FZ10 with it's even lower
resolution EVF using manual focus quite a lot, and was pretty
successful at it. EG:

http://homepage.mac.com/ramarren/IoM-4/PoA-lighthouse-0730usFR.jpg
Point of Ayre Lighthouse, Isle of Man
© 2004 by Godfrey DiGiorgi

Captured with Panasonic FZ10, tripod mounted
ISO 50 @ f/5.7 @ 1/800sec, f=24.8mm (4.1x, 145mm equiv 135)
AE-Program: compensation -0.3EV

Of course, I couldn't photograph birds in flight with it very well ...
the FZ10 EVF's refresh was so slow that most birds in flight simply
disappeared!
-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Manually focusing on the wrong sharp edge?

2010-07-19 Thread Doug Brewer

Larry Colen wrote:

I was photographing a friend playing in a small club in Capitola the other 
night. When I reviewed my photos, I found that an awful lot of them were 
focused on sharp edges in front of the musician:
The tip jar, drum kit, microphone etc.

I understand how this happens with autofocus. The camera is too stupid to know 
what to focus on and focuses on the sharp edge.  What I don't understand is why 
this happens on manual focus. *I* should know better.

One challenge that I have in low light is actually seeing the line of the split prism to 
try and line that up on the musician. Especially musicians that tend to move around a 
lot.  As such, I may rely a lot more on the microprism ring, and wonder if I just focus 
until I see whatever is in that ring come into focus, and not notice that it's not 
actually the subject that I'm trying to photograph.  More a case of my brain saying 
something is sharp, press the shutter.

I'm curious if other people have this problem when manually focusing, and what 
they do to fix it.

I got what I thought was an amusing compliment on my dancing that night.  I had a rather 
nice slow blues dance with an attractive young lady. Afterwards, she said in a rather 
husky voice I need a cigarette. Unfortunately, she was married. Even worse, 
her husband doesn't share.

I did get a couple shots of the lead singer which turned out pretty well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4807504309/in/set-72157624409188927/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/4808124360/in/set-72157624409188927/
In the second one Amy Lou isn't as sharp as I'd like,  but I do like the way 
the composition worked out with Gary (the bass player) in the background.


--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est



Never understood the fascination with split prisms. They're clunky and 
self-limiting. Give me a plain matte any day for manual focus.


I suspect you're shooting yourself in the foot here, Larry, by trying to 
use the split prism and recomposing at f/1.4. You don't have any wiggle 
room shooting with such a narrow DOF, and I think this could go a long 
way toward explaining why your focus is off too often. Stop the lens 
down a couple clicks. This will help with the focus and will also make 
the photos look like they were taken at night in a club, instead of 
afternoon in the park.


Also: Relax. It's only photography.

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