Re: Re[4]: Wireless flash and off camera clips, grips, pips, tips, salsa dips
There is just no good automagic way of doing multiple, off camera flashes. With studio flashes you: get a meter, use a digital camera (even a PS) to check a histogram (you can check this with a PS by uploading the file into PS), or shoot many, many rolls of film. If your shooting a subject, and want a 1:3 lighting ratio (1.5 stop difference) from one side to the other, TTL won't work. Your better off using both flashes in Auto mode, and set them to give different amounts of light. If I was shooting a person and given the choice between: two independently controlled lights (say into umbrellas), one light and fill card, one light and one light with on camera fill flash; the on camera light would be last and I wouldn't bother with it. You can do studio lighting on the cheap, but there are certain basic capabilities you need to get decent results. BR From: Dave Miers [EMAIL PROTECTED] Could you please explain this further. I had actually planned on the slave providing most of the light and the popup or hotshoe mounted flash providing the minority of the light. I'm afraid I'm still a bit lost here. I have the PZ-1p and PZ-1 cameras at this point and have no wireless to play with as yet in my Pentax equipment. I also have acquired a professional stand type modeling flash with 3 variing outputs from a local photographer that retired, only $40, and of course would like to implement it. Unfortunately I do not possess any metering equipment other then on camera metering. I have the AF360FGZ and a couple of other off brand flashes for pentax. one of which supports TTL and AF. I had planned to use a minisoftbox on my hotshoe on camera flash with the slaves.
Re[4]: Wireless flash and off camera clips, grips, pips, tips, salsa dips
Dave, You are basically correct if the popup flash is stronger than the slave and ambient isn't too strong. The problem is, that the reason to move the flash off camera is to make the main light not be direct. In your proposed approach, the popup becomes the main and the AF360FGZ becomes the fill. The desired lighting effect is probably not really what you are looking for. You either need something to control TTL on all flashes, including ratios or run all the lights manually and flash meter for correct exposure. --- Bruce Saturday, October 25, 2003, 11:02:32 AM, you wrote: DM I also am very interested in this use of slave flash. I would have expected DM the TTL functions to operate normally on the camera for not only the onboard DM or external mounted flash but also for the slave flash. If you set the DM slave for less then you expect to need 1/16 etc, then the on camera flash DM would make up the difference wouldn't it? It would read the total provided DM light from both flashes via TTL and provide the necessary amount on the on DM camera flash to provide correct exposure. DM I'm not saying I know this to be true, but rather pose this as a question. DM Dave No TTL that way. You must manually set flash output and probably meter manually. Also need to take into account the popup flash on the MZ-5n. If you want off camera flash and TTL, you are going to need cords and connectors from Pentax.
Re: Re[4]: Wireless flash and off camera clips, grips, pips, tips, salsa dips
Bruce Could you please explain this further. I had actually planned on the slave providing most of the light and the popup or hotshoe mounted flash providing the minority of the light. I'm afraid I'm still a bit lost here. I have the PZ-1p and PZ-1 cameras at this point and have no wireless to play with as yet in my Pentax equipment. I also have acquired a professional stand type modeling flash with 3 variing outputs from a local photographer that retired, only $40, and of course would like to implement it. Unfortunately I do not possess any metering equipment other then on camera metering. I have the AF360FGZ and a couple of other off brand flashes for pentax. one of which supports TTL and AF. I had planned to use a minisoftbox on my hotshoe on camera flash with the slaves. Dave You are basically correct if the popup flash is stronger than the slave and ambient isn't too strong. The problem is, that the reason to move the flash off camera is to make the main light not be direct. In your proposed approach, the popup becomes the main and the AF360FGZ becomes the fill. The desired lighting effect is probably not really what you are looking for. You either need something to control TTL on all flashes, including ratios or run all the lights manually and flash meter for correct exposure.
