Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

2012-08-27 Thread Appelbaum Himmelstein
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I believe that many institutions keep the things they've frozen in the bags.  
Given the use of collections, there may be no good reason to go through the 
time and trouble of handling things, and the plastic bags will keep bugs out as 
well as dust and gaseous pollutants, at least for a while.

I know that we chronic worriers (conservators, registrars, and collection 
managers) are always looking for potential damage, but there are a lot of 
things that aren't as bad as we might think.  RH issues often seem troublesome, 
but when a hygroscopic item takes up most of the space in a plastic bag, the 
controlling moisture is the moisture content of the item, not the RH of the air.

Likewise, I think, with the possibility of thermal shock; it's a highly 
unlikely problem.  It would help us if we could get reassurance about potential 
problems that , so far, turn out OK.

Here's what I think we should do: make a concerted effort to report any damage 
we have observed on this list, along with reports of large-scale treatments - 
heat, cold, and anoxia - what kinds of objects were involved, and what the 
outcome was.  Maybe someone can figure out a way to incorporate such a thing on 
Museumpests.net.  I would guess that this dist list includes a large proportion 
of the people who do this work and who make the effort to examine the things 
after they have been treated.  The information shared in this group is huge, 
and we should figure out as many ways as possible of making it usable.  We need 
to know as much about good outcomes as bad ones.

Barbara Appelbaum


On Aug 23, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Neil Carey wrote:

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 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
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 ---
 Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
 ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
 feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
 valuable input.
 
 However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. 
 Are there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the 
 possibility of mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in 
 polyethylene after defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I 
 overly paranoid? Just how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the 
 object be removed immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in 
 bags? It's not like anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside 
 its polypropylene bag forever. Any input?
 
 Neil Carey
 
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Appelbaum  Himmelstein
444 Central Park West
New York, NY  10025
212-666-4630 (voice)
212-316-1039 (fax)
aa...@mindspring.com
website: aandhconservation.org







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Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

2012-08-27 Thread Neil Carey
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Thanks, Barb…

The Freezer is unpacked, and for the time being the objects are still in 
polyethylene pending treatment of the space. I am hoping that the freezing and 
defrosting caused no damage, but I will certainly report any. My concern is not 
regarding the actual wooden sculpture but the inlaid and attached metals and 
any encrusted sacrificial materials.

BTW, the two data loggers showed temps of about -35c warming to lower than -20c 
during defrost cycles. I brought the unit back to room temp over 24 hours at 10 
degree increments, and saw no evidence of in-bag condensation. I did however 
note some ponding of water along the lowest side of the freezer despite 
leveling it during installation. This points up another reason to carefully 
heat seal the polyethylene bags, or to use some other comparable method.

The shame is that all 300+ pieces are wrapped in tissue paper, and double 
bagged, but are not bubble wrapped for transport and storage. 

Neil Carey
 

On Aug 27, 2012, at 11:55 AM, Appelbaum  Himmelstein wrote:

 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
 To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
 ---
 I believe that many institutions keep the things they've frozen in the bags.  
 Given the use of collections, there may be no good reason to go through the 
 time and trouble of handling things, and the plastic bags will keep bugs out 
 as well as dust and gaseous pollutants, at least for a while.
 
 I know that we chronic worriers (conservators, registrars, and collection 
 managers) are always looking for potential damage, but there are a lot of 
 things that aren't as bad as we might think.  RH issues often seem 
 troublesome, but when a hygroscopic item takes up most of the space in a 
 plastic bag, the controlling moisture is the moisture content of the item, 
 not the RH of the air.
 
 Likewise, I think, with the possibility of thermal shock; it's a highly 
 unlikely problem.  It would help us if we could get reassurance about 
 potential problems that , so far, turn out OK.
 
 Here's what I think we should do: make a concerted effort to report any 
 damage we have observed on this list, along with reports of large-scale 
 treatments - heat, cold, and anoxia - what kinds of objects were involved, 
 and what the outcome was.  Maybe someone can figure out a way to incorporate 
 such a thing on Museumpests.net.  I would guess that this dist list includes 
 a large proportion of the people who do this work and who make the effort to 
 examine the things after they have been treated.  The information shared in 
 this group is huge, and we should figure out as many ways as possible of 
 making it usable.  We need to know as much about good outcomes as bad ones.
 
 Barbara Appelbaum
 
 
 On Aug 23, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Neil Carey wrote:
 
 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
 To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
 ---
 Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
 ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
 feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
 valuable input.
 
 However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. 
 Are there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the 
 possibility of mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in 
 polyethylene after defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I 
 overly paranoid? Just how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the 
 object be removed immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in 
 bags? It's not like anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside 
 its polypropylene bag forever. Any input?
 
 Neil Carey
 
 --
 To send an email to the list, send your msg to pestlist@museumpests.Net
 
 To unsubscribe from this list send an email to pestlist@museumpests.net and 
 in the subject put:
 unsubscribe - no quotes please.
 
 You are receiving the Pestlist emails in standard mode.
 To change to the DIGEST mode send an 
 email to imail...@museumpests.net with this command in the body:
 
 set mode digest pestlist
 
 Any problems email l...@collectionpests.com or l...@zaks.com
 
 
 Appelbaum  Himmelstein
 444 Central Park West
 New York, NY  10025
 212-666-4630 (voice)
 212-316-1039 (fax)
 aa...@mindspring.com
 website: aandhconservation.org
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

RE: [pestlist] Defrosting

2012-08-24 Thread Anderson, Gretchen
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To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
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---
Hi Neil.
When you remove your package from the freezer, it is best to allow it come up 
to ambient temperature as slowly as possible.  This reduces the thermal shock 
to the object. Ideally the object should be placed in a refrigerator until it 
is thawed then move it to the room.  I realize that this does not always happen 
- it depends on your facilities. But the goal should be to bring the objects up 
to room temperature as slowly as is feasible.   

You are creating a micro-environment to protect the item. If you have placed 
your objects in a double layer well sealed plastic you will not have a problem 
with condensation or see any evidence of  localized relative humidity on the 
piece when you remove it from the freezer.  Allow them to come up to the 
ambient temperature slowly and when they are completely acclimated you can 
remove them from the plastic.  You will not have a mold problem. 

It is a good idea to examine the object and maintain quarantine until you are 
sure that the object is pest free. One way to do this is to keep it in a bag 
for a while (length of time will depend on the life cycle of the pest species). 

Anoxic is another topic.  With this method you are actively removing the oxygen 
from the bag or space around the object. There are advantages to this method, 
and there are some things that are best stored and displayed in an anoxic 
environment.  But that is more complicated.  For use of anoxia in pest control 
, take a look at the various strategies on Museum Pest Net 
http://www.museumpests.net/treatment.asp  There is also a fact sheet on bagging 
for isolation. 

Good luck! 
Gretchen 



-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Neil 
Carey
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 8:50 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] Defrosting

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
valuable input.

However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. Are 
there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the possibility of 
mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in polyethylene after 
defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I overly paranoid? Just 
how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the object be removed 
immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in bags? It's not like 
anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside its polypropylene bag 
forever. Any input?

Neil Carey

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To send an email to the list, send your msg to pestlist@museumpests.Net

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RE: [pestlist] Defrosting

2012-08-24 Thread Kaplan, Emily
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---
Hi all,
We routinely treat collections with low temperature at minus 30 degrees C and 
have had no problems with unloading the freezer and allowing the collections 
items to come to room temperature - 24 hours minimum to be on the safe side (we 
do not use a refrigeration step.) Just make sure you keep them wrapped until 
they come to room temp so any condensation occurs on the wrapping not the 
object.
Best,
Emily


Emily Kaplan
Conservator
Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian
Cultural Resources Center
4220 Silver Hill Rd Suitland MD 20746
301.238.1418 fax 301.238.3201
kapl...@si.edu


-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Neil 
Carey
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 11:19 AM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Hi again,

So then there is a need to bring objects back to room temp slowly. 

The rented freezer is getting picked up on Monday, so I'll need to unpack it on 
Sunday. There is a thermostat on it. I've had it cranked down all the way which 
has yielded -30c. I can gradually warm it up over time while keeping an eye on 
the temp. 

So, my question is, over how long a period is Allow them to come up to the 
ambient temperature slowly? 5 hours? 24 hours?

Neil

On Aug 24, 2012, at 10:40 AM, Anderson, Gretchen wrote:

 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net 
 To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
 ---
 Hi Neil.
 When you remove your package from the freezer, it is best to allow it come up 
 to ambient temperature as slowly as possible.  This reduces the thermal shock 
 to the object. Ideally the object should be placed in a refrigerator until it 
 is thawed then move it to the room.  I realize that this does not always 
 happen - it depends on your facilities. But the goal should be to bring the 
 objects up to room temperature as slowly as is feasible.   
 
 You are creating a micro-environment to protect the item. If you have placed 
 your objects in a double layer well sealed plastic you will not have a 
 problem with condensation or see any evidence of  localized relative humidity 
 on the piece when you remove it from the freezer.  Allow them to come up to 
 the ambient temperature slowly and when they are completely acclimated you 
 can remove them from the plastic.  You will not have a mold problem. 
 
 It is a good idea to examine the object and maintain quarantine until you are 
 sure that the object is pest free. One way to do this is to keep it in a bag 
 for a while (length of time will depend on the life cycle of the pest 
 species). 
 
 Anoxic is another topic.  With this method you are actively removing the 
 oxygen from the bag or space around the object. There are advantages to this 
 method, and there are some things that are best stored and displayed in an 
 anoxic environment.  But that is more complicated.  For use of anoxia in pest 
 control , take a look at the various strategies on Museum Pest Net 
 http://www.museumpests.net/treatment.asp  There is also a fact sheet on 
 bagging for isolation. 
 
 Good luck! 
 Gretchen
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf 
 Of Neil Carey
 Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 8:50 PM
 To: pestlist@museumpests.net
 Subject: [pestlist] Defrosting
 
 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
 unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
 ---
 Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
 ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
 feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
 valuable input.
 
 However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. 
 Are there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the 
 possibility of mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in 
 polyethylene after defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I 
 overly paranoid? Just how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the 
 object be removed immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in 
 bags? It's not like anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside 
 its polypropylene bag forever. Any input?
 
 Neil

RE: [pestlist] Defrosting

2012-08-24 Thread Anderson, Gretchen
This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Agreed - that is what I have done for the most part. Both at Science Museum of 
Minnesota and at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History.  While it is usually 
recommended to stage the thaw through a refrigerator it is often not practical! 
 I think the most important step is to keep the objects wrapped until they are 
up to room temperature. I have never seen any damage while doing this.  

-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Kaplan, 
Emily
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 12:01 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: RE: [pestlist] Defrosting

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Hi all,
We routinely treat collections with low temperature at minus 30 degrees C and 
have had no problems with unloading the freezer and allowing the collections 
items to come to room temperature - 24 hours minimum to be on the safe side (we 
do not use a refrigeration step.) Just make sure you keep them wrapped until 
they come to room temp so any condensation occurs on the wrapping not the 
object.
Best,
Emily


Emily Kaplan
Conservator
Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian Cultural Resources Center
4220 Silver Hill Rd Suitland MD 20746
301.238.1418 fax 301.238.3201
kapl...@si.edu


-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Neil 
Carey
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 11:19 AM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Hi again,

So then there is a need to bring objects back to room temp slowly. 

The rented freezer is getting picked up on Monday, so I'll need to unpack it on 
Sunday. There is a thermostat on it. I've had it cranked down all the way which 
has yielded -30c. I can gradually warm it up over time while keeping an eye on 
the temp. 

So, my question is, over how long a period is Allow them to come up to the 
ambient temperature slowly? 5 hours? 24 hours?

Neil

On Aug 24, 2012, at 10:40 AM, Anderson, Gretchen wrote:

 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net 
 To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
 ---
 Hi Neil.
 When you remove your package from the freezer, it is best to allow it come up 
 to ambient temperature as slowly as possible.  This reduces the thermal shock 
 to the object. Ideally the object should be placed in a refrigerator until it 
 is thawed then move it to the room.  I realize that this does not always 
 happen - it depends on your facilities. But the goal should be to bring the 
 objects up to room temperature as slowly as is feasible.   
 
 You are creating a micro-environment to protect the item. If you have placed 
 your objects in a double layer well sealed plastic you will not have a 
 problem with condensation or see any evidence of  localized relative humidity 
 on the piece when you remove it from the freezer.  Allow them to come up to 
 the ambient temperature slowly and when they are completely acclimated you 
 can remove them from the plastic.  You will not have a mold problem. 
 
 It is a good idea to examine the object and maintain quarantine until you are 
 sure that the object is pest free. One way to do this is to keep it in a bag 
 for a while (length of time will depend on the life cycle of the pest 
 species). 
 
 Anoxic is another topic.  With this method you are actively removing the 
 oxygen from the bag or space around the object. There are advantages to this 
 method, and there are some things that are best stored and displayed in an 
 anoxic environment.  But that is more complicated.  For use of anoxia in pest 
 control , take a look at the various strategies on Museum Pest Net 
 http://www.museumpests.net/treatment.asp  There is also a fact sheet on 
 bagging for isolation. 
 
 Good luck! 
 Gretchen
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf 
 Of Neil Carey
 Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 8:50 PM
 To: pestlist@museumpests.net
 Subject: [pestlist] Defrosting
 
 This is a message from the Museumpests List.
 To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net To 
 unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email