Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn
Kurt: this is the E-mail / horn I mentioned previously (yesterday). later Bob -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Kurt Nauck Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 12:31 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I have a painted repro cygnet for $275 if you are interested Kurt Nauck c/o Nauck's Vintage Records 22004 Sherrod Ln. Spring, Texas 77389 www.78rpm.com www.TexasReady.net www.MDADA.org www.NewPledge.org E-Mail: na...@78rpm.com Phone: (281) 288-7826 Fax: (425) 930-6862 ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn
Kurt: I realize you have just returned from travel however, I would appreciate your looking at the Cygnet horn regarding condition (striping & decal) and letting me know. Again, thanks Bob -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Kurt Nauck Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 12:31 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I have a painted repro cygnet for $275 if you are interested Kurt Nauck c/o Nauck's Vintage Records 22004 Sherrod Ln. Spring, Texas 77389 www.78rpm.com www.TexasReady.net www.MDADA.org www.NewPledge.org E-Mail: na...@78rpm.com Phone: (281) 288-7826 Fax: (425) 930-6862 ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn
John: thanks for the comments. I agree, I have dealt with Kurt for years, generally on 78s and had great results. I E-mailed him and subsequently called him for a discussion regarding the horn. later Bob -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of john robles Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 11:48 PM To: Antique Phonograph List Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I would recommend this, Bob, as Kurt is a very reputable seller and the price is very good! John Robles From: Kurt Nauck To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 11:31 PM Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I have a painted repro cygnet for $275 if you are interested Kurt Nauck c/o Nauck's Vintage Records 22004 Sherrod Ln. Spring, Texas 77389 www.78rpm.com www.TexasReady.net www.MDADA.org www.NewPledge.org E-Mail: na...@78rpm.com Phone: (281) 288-7826 Fax: (425) 930-6862 ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn
Kurt: Has it been striped and decaled? Maybe a pic if possible. Later Bob -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Kurt Nauck Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 12:31 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I have a painted repro cygnet for $275 if you are interested Kurt Nauck c/o Nauck's Vintage Records 22004 Sherrod Ln. Spring, Texas 77389 www.78rpm.com www.TexasReady.net www.MDADA.org www.NewPledge.org E-Mail: na...@78rpm.com Phone: (281) 288-7826 Fax: (425) 930-6862 ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn
I would recommend this, Bob, as Kurt is a very reputable seller and the price is very good! John Robles From: Kurt Nauck To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 11:31 PM Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet horn I have a painted repro cygnet for $275 if you are interested Kurt Nauck c/o Nauck's Vintage Records 22004 Sherrod Ln. Spring, Texas 77389 www.78rpm.com www.TexasReady.net www.MDADA.org www.NewPledge.org E-Mail: na...@78rpm.com Phone: (281) 288-7826 Fax: (425) 930-6862 ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Thanks Curt for sharing these tips. Andy On Nov 11, 2010, at 4:50 PM, Vinyl Visions wrote: Hi Andy and all, From what you can see on the video, Rub n Buff or similar rub on metallic waxes are great for restorations. I have used it to touch up or redo the stripes on Edison horns. It subtlely restores the original look. A friend and I recently used it on the gold tonearm of his Victrola 18, which had some obvious wear on the elbow near the reproducer. After we finished, you couldn't tell it was done. Note: Rub n Buff or other metallic waxes look good, but are not permanent without using a fixative. I use Krylon Matte finish art fixative to topcoat it after I'm through. It is transparent and does not show up after it is applied, but makes the metallic finish permanent. You should experiment first, before using it on an important piece. Another use for the fixative is this: if you have a black horn, which is scratched, etc. it detracts from the look and I hate to repaint, because you cannot reproduce the japanned finish. I touch up the scratches with a Sharpie marker, then blend the t ouchups in with WD40 - I know, everyone hates WD40, but WD40 sprayed on the black paint restores the original look and blends in the touchups from the Sharpie. I then wipe off the WD40 with a soft cloth and spray the horn with fixative. If you have a horn that is in need of repainting, you might try this procedure, as it has worked well for me. I have restored a Victor R horn, a Cygnet horn that was really scratched bad and an Edison black flowered horn that now looks pristine. Just an idea... take it for what it's worth. Curt From: a...@popyrus.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:35:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely support the weight. What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned? Andy Baron On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote: Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you wish you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can drill the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet head) but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but not through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head should break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more so. Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with less force. If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you can fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you think. Mike Stitt Good luck. Mike Stitt On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet them but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more about riveting? Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any ideas? From: lhera...@bu.edu To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you can rivet it back on. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by som
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Hi Andy and all, >From what you can see on the video, Rub n Buff or similar rub on metallic >waxes are great for restorations. I have used it to touch up or redo the >stripes on Edison horns. It subtlely restores the original look. A friend and >I recently used it on the gold tonearm of his Victrola 18, which had some >obvious wear on the elbow near the reproducer. After we finished, you couldn't >tell it was done. Note: Rub n Buff or other metallic waxes look good, but are >not permanent without using a fixative. I use Krylon Matte finish art fixative >to topcoat it after I'm through. It is transparent and does not show up after >it is applied, but makes the metallic finish permanent. You should experiment >first, before using it on an important piece. Another use for the fixative is >this: if you have a black horn, which is scratched, etc. it detracts from the >look and I hate to repaint, because you cannot reproduce the japanned finish. >I touch up the scratches with a Sharpie marker, then blend the t ouchups in with WD40 - I know, everyone hates WD40, but WD40 sprayed on the black paint restores the original look and blends in the touchups from the Sharpie. I then wipe off the WD40 with a soft cloth and spray the horn with fixative. If you have a horn that is in need of repainting, you might try this procedure, as it has worked well for me. I have restored a Victor R horn, a Cygnet horn that was really scratched bad and an Edison black flowered horn that now looks pristine. Just an idea... take it for what it's worth. Curt > From: a...@popyrus.com > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:35:15 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description > here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be > appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials > and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can > to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely > support the weight. > > What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned? > > Andy Baron > > On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote: > > > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is > > split > > I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs > > you wish > > you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you > > can drill > > the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the > > rivet head) > > but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. > > > > Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center > > but not > > through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet > > head should > > break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out > > more so. > > Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts > > over pop > > rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the > > shank > > with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give > > with less > > force. > > > > If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin > > and even > > file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it > > together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass > > you can > > fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just > > black > > model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than > > you think. > > Mike Stitt > > > > Good luck. > > Mike Stitt > > > > On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault > > wrote: > > > >> It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop > >> rivet > >> them > >> but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else > >> know more > >> about riveting? > >> > >> Ron L > >> > >> -Original Message- > >> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org > >> ] > >> On > >> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > >> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM > >> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > >> > >> > >> I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what > >> method they > >> used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... > >> any > >> idea
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Thanks, Mike for this link. It does look like this product would be at home in the cosmetic restoration tool kit. Best, Andy On Nov 11, 2010, at 9:44 AM, Mike Stitt wrote: Does life with antiques exist without rub n buff? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7jEPKQmgI On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 8:35 AM, Andrew Baron wrote: I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely support the weight. What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned? Andy Baron On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote: Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you wish you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can drill the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet head) but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but not through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head should break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more so. Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with less force. If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you can fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you think. Mike Stitt Good luck. Mike Stitt On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet them but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more about riveting? Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any ideas? From: lhera...@bu.edu To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you can rivet it back on. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the ball. Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Does life with antiques exist without rub n buff? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7jEPKQmgI On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 8:35 AM, Andrew Baron wrote: > I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description here. > Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be appropriate for > this), and solder are all relatively soft materials and would give that nice > balance between getting as close as you can to a factory look, and yet be > sturdy enough to know it will safely support the weight. > > What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned? > > Andy Baron > > > On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote: > > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split >> I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you >> wish >> you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can >> drill >> the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet >> head) >> but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. >> >> Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but >> not >> through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head >> should >> break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more >> so. >> Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop >> rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank >> with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with >> less >> force. >> >> If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even >> file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it >> together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you >> can >> fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black >> model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you >> think. >> Mike Stitt >> >> Good luck. >> Mike Stitt >> >> On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: >> >> It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet >>> them >>> but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know >>> more >>> about riveting? >>> >>> Ron L >>> >>> -Original Message- >>> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] >>> On >>> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" >>> >>> >>> I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method >>> they >>> used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any >>> ideas? >>> >>> From: lhera...@bu.edu >>>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >>>> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 >>>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" >>>> >>>> Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical >>>> Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you >>>> can rivet it back on. >>>> >>>> Ron L >>>> >>>> -Original Message- >>>> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org >>>> ] >>>> >>> On >>> >>>> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions >>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM >>>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >>>> Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements >>>> for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how >>>> do >>>> you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace >>>> >>> the >>> >>>> ball. >>>> >>>> Curt >>>> >>>> ___ >>>> Phono-L mailing list >>>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org >>>> >>>> ___ >>>> Phono-L mailing list >>>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org >>>> >>> >>> ___ >>> Phono-L mailing list >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org >>> >>> ___ >>> Phono-L mailing list >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org >>> >>> ___ >> Phono-L mailing list >> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org >> >> > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely support the weight. What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned? Andy Baron On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote: Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you wish you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can drill the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet head) but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but not through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head should break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more so. Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with less force. If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you can fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you think. Mike Stitt Good luck. Mike Stitt On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet them but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more about riveting? Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any ideas? From: lhera...@bu.edu To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you can rivet it back on. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org ] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the ball. Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
I appreciate all of the ideas and help. These are exactly the issues that I was contemplating on how to make it look right. I even thought of cutting rivets in half, JB welding the part to the horn and then JB welding each half of the rivets back in. Once it was painted, you would not be able to tell the diff. Using old fashioned rivets is not easy, since you need something solid to round them over inside the horn. I may just try to repair the damage to the existing part first. I try to think of all of the issues before I begin any repair. > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 22:59:34 -0800 > From: smst...@gmail.com > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split > I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you wish > you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can drill > the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet head) > but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. > > Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but not > through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head should > break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more so. > Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop > rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank > with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with less > force. > > If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even > file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it > together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you can > fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black > model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you think. > Mike Stitt > > Good luck. > Mike Stitt > > On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: > > > It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet > > them > > but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more > > about riveting? > > > > Ron L > > > > -Original Message- > > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > > On > > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > > > I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they > > used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any > > ideas? > > > > > From: lhera...@bu.edu > > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 > > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > > > Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical > > > Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you > > > can rivet it back on. > > > > > > Ron L > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > > On > > > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > > > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM > > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > > Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > > > > > > > > > I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements > > > for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do > > > you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace > > the > > > ball. > > > > > > Curt > > > > > > ___ > > > Phono-L mailing list > > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > > > > > ___ > > > Phono-L mailing list > > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > > > ___ > > Phono-L mailing list > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > > > ___ > > Phono-L mailing list > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is split I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs you wish you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you can drill the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the rivet head) but do not drill thru'. Be very careful. Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center but not through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet head should break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out more so. Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts over pop rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the shank with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give with less force. If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin and even file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass you can fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just black model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than you think. Mike Stitt Good luck. Mike Stitt On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: > It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet > them > but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more > about riveting? > > Ron L > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > On > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they > used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any > ideas? > > > From: lhera...@bu.edu > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical > > Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you > > can rivet it back on. > > > > Ron L > > > > -Original Message- > > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > On > > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > > > > > I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements > > for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do > > you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace > the > > ball. > > > > Curt > > > > ___ > > Phono-L mailing list > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > > > ___ > > Phono-L mailing list > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop rivet them but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else know more about riveting? Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any ideas? > From: lhera...@bu.edu > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical > Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you > can rivet it back on. > > Ron L > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements > for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do > you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the > ball. > > Curt > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what method they used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn... any ideas? > From: lhera...@bu.edu > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical > Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you > can rivet it back on. > > Ron L > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > > I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements > for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do > you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the > ball. > > Curt > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Dave, Thanks for that idea, I never thought of Don Gfell or Mirek. > Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 09:35:18 -0800 > From: dda...@sbcglobal.net > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > > > Don Gfell may be able to help. He needs them for his wooden horns. I think > that Mirek Stehlik in Kitchener, Ontario used to make them, too. > Dave > --- On Wed, 11/10/10, Vinyl Visions wrote: > > > From: Vinyl Visions > Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 8:30 AM > > > > > I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for > the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go > about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the ball. > > Curt > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Don Gfell may be able to help. He needs them for his wooden horns. I think that Mirek Stehlik in Kitchener, Ontario used to make them, too. Dave --- On Wed, 11/10/10, Vinyl Visions wrote: From: Vinyl Visions Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 8:30 AM I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the ball. Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a musical Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out. Then you can rivet it back on. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder" I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell replacements for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so, how do you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to replace the ball. Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
