[pinhole-discussion] Ortho film
Ortho films are sensitive mostly to blue light. This accounts for being able to use a red safelight with them. Until recently Kodak still made an ortho version of Tri-X. Currently most ortho films are lith type films. However, there are a couple of smaller manufacturers who are coating film with an ortho emulson which are full scale. As far as I know, these are all roll films. Try contacting Freestyle in LA, www.freestylesalesco. I believe thay still carry one even though they have significantly reduced the number of inventory items in the past several months. Ortho emulsions are really nice to use in contrasty situations with deep shadows. Since shadows are blue, the ortho sensitivity opens these up beautifully. I still carry a few holders of Tri-X Ortho anytime I am going to photograph among trees. Although it can't be developed with a red safelight, panchromatic films can be converted to give a similar sensitivity to blue light through use of a light blue filter. Jim
[pinhole-discussion] Reciprocity
What a complicated answer. Simply put, most film is designed to react to light in a linear fashion from about 1/2 second to 1/1000 second. If times slower or faster than this are used, the light is not recorded in the same linear fashion. Therefore an adjustment in time is necessary. If you want to use a film for which you will never have to add more than 1/2 stop to compensate for this lack of linearity, use Fuji Acros. It is rated at ISO 100, but for long exposures becomes the fastest film available. Yes, even faster than T-Max 3200. There is no correction needed for the first 1000 seconds, and only 1/2 stop needs to be added beyond that time. Jim
[pinhole-discussion] Lith print
That is a beautiful little print. The color reminds me of the old Ilford Lith paper. Is this on Ilford or Sterling Lith Paper? Jim
[pinhole-discussion] Acros film
Acros film is most easily available in 120. Some of the mailorder houses are still listing it as Neopan 100. Be sure to ask which they have. Development is in any standard developer. Go to Fujifilm web site for times. Times are longer than most other films, 10 minutes in HC 110@68 degrees, but the extra time is worth it. Jim
[pinhole-discussion] FIlm reciprocity
If you happen to use 120 film in your pinhole, give Fuji Neopan Acros a try. This wonderful film has no reciprocity correction for the firs two minutes, and only one half stop from 2 minutes to 20 minutes. This quality makes it ideal for night and/or pinhole photographs. Last night I made 20 minute pinhole exposures in some of the marinas here. They are terrific. If you live in Japan, or have contacts there, you can obtain Acros in4X5 and 8X10 sizes. Another respondent mentioned shortening development time when using long exposures. The reason fro this is that as film is exposed for extended periods of time allows the highlights to gather immense quantities of light compared to the mid and lower tones. Extreme contrast is the result. Decreasing the development time causes the highlights to develop less in relation to the mid and lower tones thus reducing contrast. JIm
[pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #712 - 12 msgs
Greg, The Unicolor roller and drum do a wonderful job. If you are having trouble fixing you have one of several problems: 1. Insufficient fixer quantity - Use as much fixer as your tube will hoild without running out the pouring spout. I usually use 8 ounces in these tubes. 2. Weak or exhausted fixer 3. Insufficient fixing time - T-Max needs to be fixed approximately twice as long a other films. If you will follow fixing with a good clearing agent for two to three minutes prior to washing it wil help remove that purple stain left from the anti-halation backing. Jim At 04:38 PM 6/1/02 -0400, you wrote: Send Pinhole-Discussion mailing list submissions to pinhole-discussion@p at ??? To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/pinhole-discussion or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to pinhole-discussion-request@p at ??? You can reach the person managing the list at pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ??? When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Pinhole-Discussion digest... Please DO NOT QUOTE the entire digest when replying to a posting, only quote the message you are replying to. Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML. ___ Today's Topics: 1. Re: Covering Power of Pinholes (Bill Erickson) 2. RE: begging for wisdom (Jeff Dilcher) 3. re:begging for wisdom (jeepa...@aol.com) 4. Developing sheet film with a drum processor (Greg Newberry) 5. WPPD2 on-line exhibition (Gregg Kemp) 6. Congratulations to all! (Guy Glorieux) 7. Re: Developing sheet film with a drum processor (Richard Heather) 8. increased sharpness? (Jim Kosinski) 9. Re: increased sharpness? (G.Penate) 10. Re: increased sharpness? (Howard Wells) 11. RE: increased sharpness? (Andy Schmitt) 12. Re: increased sharpness? (Jim Kosinski) --__--__-- Message: 1 From: Bill Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Covering Power of Pinholes Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:40:40 -0500 Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --=_NextPart_000_0072_01C2087E.D7F5B1E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Covering Power of PinholesSimple answer is that covering power generally = is 1 1/2 times the focal length either side of the axis. Erics book has = both complex and simple formulae. The simple formula is the diameter of = the aperture in thosandths of an inch (for example 0.010=3D 10) divided = by 55 equals the optimal focal length in inches. On the other hand, = the whole thing is very forgiving. You have to be off on the diamerter = by 40% to get one stop exposure change. Sharpness is even more = forgiving. there's a series of pictures somewher in erics book that = illustrates this. Take it from a semi-reformed critical standards guy. = You don't need critical standards.=20 - Original Message -=20 From: Joe Tait=20 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???=20 Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:49 PM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Covering Power of Pinholes Hello! New to the list and this is my first post.=20 A little background. I have been doing photography for 6 years, and currently shoot 4x5 = w/ a Cambo Legend monorail and 6x7 with a Koni Rapid 200. Most of my = experience has been with conventional silver printing, but I have tried = cyanotype gum bichromate in the last 6 months, and am going to plunge = forward into various alt processes as I can. I really want to try pinhole next, and want larger negatives for = contact printing. I've found some interesting info on the web and will = build my own camera pinhole very soon. One thing that I am confused = about is determining how much covering power a given pinhole has. Is = it just relative to the distance of the pinhole to film/pinhole dia., = which then determines the focal length? Forgive me, I struggle with = comprehending even the most basic concepts of optics generally, and am = no better with pinhole. I'd like to try say an 11x14 format, or perhaps a panoramic 8x16. = The wide-angle possibilities (both the really wide moderate) are in = my sights first and I like distortion, but not to the point of monotony. = I am looking to use sheet Lith film developed in dilute developer, or = pyro; and will be making my own film holders and back to be able to do = multiple exposures. Could someone enlighten me how to figure out the proper pinhole size = lens-to-film distance for the aforementioned formats? I understand that = a curved film plane is employed to compensate for light fall-off. Is the = optimum curve determined by experience, or are there known combinations? I haven't found any books that focus on specifics. Eric Renner's
[pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #677 - 10 msgs
Holga with a rangefinder? I don't think so. At 07:57 PM 4/16/02 -0400, you wrote: Send Pinhole-Discussion mailing list submissions to pinhole-discussion@p at ??? To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/pinhole-discussion or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to pinhole-discussion-request@p at ??? You can reach the person managing the list at pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ??? When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Pinhole-Discussion digest... Please DO NOT QUOTE the entire digest when replying to a posting, only quote the message you are replying to. Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML. ___ Today's Topics: 1. camera body for zone plate (Kate Hudec) 2. Re: developing tanks/pinhole cam [was paper negative tricks] (Ray Esposito) 3. business on list (Jim Kosinski) 4. Re: business on list (Ray Esposito) 5. Re: camera body for zone plate (D Hill) 6. Re: business on list (G.Penate) 7. hello !! (laurence docherty) 8. Re: hello !! and Workshops (Tom Miller) 9. Re: hello !! (Randy sss) 10. WPPD (James Kellar) --__--__-- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:19:06 -0400 From: Kate Hudec hu...@rcn.com To: Pinhole Discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: [pinhole-discussion] camera body for zone plate Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? I've been using a converted Lubitel camera for my studio based zone plate work. I like the camera, but its layout is causing me some trouble. It's great having a viewing lens, but the placement of the viewfinder on top is inconvenient given my lighting set-ups. I often find myself check to jowl with a blazing quartz light. Also, having to unscrew the camera from the tripod every time I need to change film is annoying. I'm looking for another cheap medium format camera to convert to zone plate -- preferably one with a rangefinder style viewfinder on the back. I've heard that the Agfa Sporti is a possible candidate. Does anyone know what the focal length of this camera is? Any other cameras come to mind? Thanks. --__--__-- Message: 2 From: Ray Esposito brassr...@brassring.org To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] developing tanks/pinhole cam [was paper negative tricks] Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:43:11 -0400 Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Jim - check is in the mail - Ray - Original Message - From: Jim Kosinski mer...@paintcancamera.com To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 9:41 PM Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] developing tanks/pinhole cam [was paper negative tricks] Ray, the prices are on the page with the ordering info, the Merlin XD's price is $34 sorry you missed it... Jim Many thanks, Jim Kosinski Starlight Cameras PO Box 540 Cherry Valley NY 13320 usa Merlin pinhole cameras darkroom kits www.paintcancamera.com 607-264-3480 --__--__-- Message: 3 Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:03:01 -0400 From: Jim Kosinski mer...@paintcancamera.com To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: [pinhole-discussion] business on list Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? ---c499444161f0c2196d52fe168bdf6d78 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit No offense to anyone, but I'm not comfortable discussing business on the list - it should remain commercial free! In the future please contact me directly about orders and such. Many thanks, Jim Kosinski Starlight Cameras PO Box 540 Cherry Valley NY 13320 usa Merlin pinhole cameras darkroom kits www.paintcancamera.com 607-264-3480 ---c499444161f0c2196d52fe168bdf6d78 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name=Message 6 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Return-Path: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ??? Received: from pairlist.net (pairlist.net [216.92.1.92]) by vmms4.verisignmail.com (Mirapoint Messaging Server MOS 2.9.3.2) with ESMTP id DYW02288; Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:49:14 -0400 (EDT) Received: from pairlist.net (localhost.pair.com [127.0.0.1]) by pairlist.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 80A9C53A71; Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:46:30 -0400 (EDT) Delivered-To: pinhole-discuss...@pairlist.net Received: from vala.pair.com (vala.pair.com [209.68.1.127]) by pairlist.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 3AD5B53878 for pinhole-discussion@lists.p at ???; Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:44:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: (qmail 58663 invoked by uid 59120); 16 Apr 2002 12:47:21 - Delivered-To: pinhole-p at ???-pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Received: (qmail 58653 invoked from network); 16 Apr 2002 12:47:21 - Received: from smtp-gw.dmv.com (64.45.128.7) by vala.pair.com with SMTP; 16 Apr 2002 12:47:21 - Received: from mail-gw.dmv.com (mail-gw.dmv.com [64.45.128.6]) by
[pinhole-discussion] Ideas for finishing pinhole
If you are looking for fine polishing grit, locate the nearest shop which sells supplies for grinding rocks and semiprecious stones. JIm
[pinhole-discussion] Making dark slides
From reading the messages on this subject it looks as if you are talking about making film holders, not dark slides. There is a significant difference. A film holder is not easy to make, but a dark slide is easily made from a piece of aluminum the proper thickness to just slide into the holder comfortably. The most inexpensive method of procuring a film holder is to find an old used one in the junk bin of a camera store. So long as the end flaps are present, they can easily be taped back on with black photographers tape. The wooden ones,especially those with metal on the end into which the dark slide is inserted, work well. Many stores think the wooden ones are no good and are willing to let them got for $10 or $12. If the dark slides are missing, they are even cheaper. Personally I prefer the wooden holders to the new plastic ones because they are less prone to light leakage due to warping. Once the holder are obtained, building a pinhole, or other, camera around them is very simple. Jim
[pinhole-discussion] pinhole site
Thanks for spending the time and effort necessary to provide a very nice site. I really enjoy your images and, as an instructor in photography at a community college, find them esthetically beautiful. As for suggestions re: the site, It would be nice to be able to go from one image to another without having to go back to the main sub-division, ie Trains. I am not computer savvy enough to know how this is done, only that I appreciate such convenience. Thanks again for the site. Keep up the good work. Jim Noel
[pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #562 - 13 msgs
At 12:44 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Using paper developer with Ortho Litho film. Since paper developers are more active and contrasty by their makeup, it makes more sense to use dilute film developer in order to obtain long scale negatives with this film. I believe the old wives tale about using dilute paper developer came from an article I read in a photography magazine in the late 1930's or early forties which promoted such development. For many years I have used dilute filme developers, D-76 at 1+ 6 to 1+8 is one example, or W2D2, a pyro developer, to produce beautiful long scaled enlarged negatives. Paper developers cause a harsh contrast line between dense adjacent areas of density which is very unacceptable to me. Jim
