[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Mojo]

I have spent some considerable effort and money to maximize my Q
gearing...that I don't use!
http://tinyurl.com/43md96

Actually I use the 71 inch for most valley road riding, switch to
63inch for non-gnarly dirt. The lower gears are designed to get me up
the surrounding hills here in Western Colorado especially the Monument
ride:  http://www.nps.gov/colm/planyourvisit/bicycling.htm  But I find
stopping to change gears at least 4 times for such hilly rides breaks
the ride rhythm too much for my tastes. So for awhile now I haven't
used the Q for this ride

Also I have been free vs fixed all this cold season and loving a
freecog. I seem to go thru free/fixed phases, generally following the
seasons.

As for gear changing, I now use my dirt lube of choice on the Q, White
Lightning. Needs to be reapplied often, but keeps my chain clean in
the fine dust here and my fingers clean when I change gears. One
cheap, thin rubber glove in my side saddlebag pocket helps with gear
changes.

On Jan 27, 4:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Bill Rhea]

I love trails, but here in San Mateo County, CA they're all pretty
upsey-downsey

My QB is all about the mostly flat commute and 90 minute, rolling (but
not extended upsey-downsey) rides on the weekend through Portola
Valley and Woodside.  Especially in inclement weather.  This is what
it looks like:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Wheelsmith91/Quickbeam#

He (She?) wears 37c Panaracer tires and Berthoud 50mm fenders, so
flipping the hub is a PITA for me.  I got a Romulus about 18 months
later, but until then I would occasionally shift to a 32x18 for some
long climbs (with some paperboy weave) and rode almost exclusively
fixed on it until recently.  Now it's 46x16 with a White 16/18 Dos.

Still thinking about a Sunrace/SA 3sp fixed epicyclic hub and barcon
shifter

-br

On Jan 27, 10:36 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 1/27/09 3:30 PM, colin p. cummings at colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> > changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> > frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> > live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> > changing gears to climb out of a canyon...


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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[CycloFiend]

on 1/27/09 3:30 PM, colin p. cummings at colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...

The great thing about that bicycle is its versatility - you can set it up
precisely for the type of riding you encounter.

I would tend to start simply and do the things that make sense for your
style of riding and the conditions you encounter.

The place I tend to make a gearing change is usually the transition from
road to trail, as sometimes its a long road jaunt to the trailhead. I think
it matters whether or not you are going to set up a fixed gear on the
Quickbeam.  Or maybe not.  Lately, I've been riding narrower trails on the
fixed setup. And openly wondering about my sanity.  Having fun, though.

But, the weird thing is that on the bigger gear, it feels to me that you
have more time to correct for trail obstacles. A few times, I've almost had
the feeling that I was leveling the pedals. Slow speed + big gears.

On the QB, since it takes a moment or two to shift, the question is often
whether conditions warrant it. If you haven't ridden a singlespeed before,
you'll probably find that you'll learn a lot about maintaining momentum in
the first month or so of riding.

If I change gears 4 times in a longer ride, that's probably a lot.
Typically if I'm going to have a long, twisty descent, I prefer a coastable
setup. Technical trail work is usually in the stock 40 x 18. A long climb
will use the 32. Otherwise, I'm running it fixed.

A couple of longer QB ride reports here:
http://www.cyclofiend.com/brevet/2007_200k.html
http://ramblings.cyclofiend.com/?p=186

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[Bill Rhea]

I was confused about that myself, but it looks like they have updated
their website:

http://www.philwood.com/products/GeneralHubs.pdf

-br

On Jan 27, 9:49 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> There is (or was) actually a Phil freewheel hub that is (or was)
> listed as an IRD hub, so the confusion is understandable.
>
> On Jan 27, 11:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
>
> > Maybe he thought he was scoring a deal on a Phil cassette hub,,,
>
> > On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 9:39 PM, RM  wrote:
> > > Maybe he was referring to the special Phil "Riv" hub that is available:
>
> > >http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/wheels_hubs_and_so_on?a=1&page=1...
>
> > > and thinking he was going to get that one (with cutouts).
>
> > > Rob
>
> > > On Jan 27, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
>
> > > Recently I shipped out a Phil freewheel hub and a 7sp IRD freewheel to
> > > go with it. The customer who received it just emailed me because he
> > > had been led to believe that Phil makes a special hub that is
> > > compatible with IRD freewheels (from which follows that other Phil
> > > hubs are not IRD-compatible). I'm pretty sure that an IRD freewheel
> > > works just fine on any hub that has standard threading, including Phil
> > > Wood.
>
> > > Anybody know about this confusion? What have I missed?
>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: Holiday Catalog!

[CycloFiend]

on 1/27/09 8:01 PM, J. Burkhalter at burk...@yahoo.com wrote:

> 
> Ditto!  Mine arrived today.  Got me thinking I should probably ask to
> be taken off the catalog mailing list.   As much as I love getting
> mail, I'm not sure this is what Grant intended.  And I know RBW could
> use that money elsewhere.  I'd settle for a groovy little postcard
> with a link to check out a special Holiday PDF (oh, but I still gotta
> have a hard copy RR!).

You folks should let RBW know directly. They should file a report with the
mailing service they use or directly with the USPS regarding the delays.

That's pretty far outside the window.

- Jim "glad I don't have to run mailings any more..."

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Jim Edgar
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

There is (or was) actually a Phil freewheel hub that is (or was)
listed as an IRD hub, so the confusion is understandable.


On Jan 27, 11:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> Maybe he thought he was scoring a deal on a Phil cassette hub,,,
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 9:39 PM, RM  wrote:
> > Maybe he was referring to the special Phil "Riv" hub that is available:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/wheels_hubs_and_so_on?a=1&page=1...
>
> > and thinking he was going to get that one (with cutouts).
>
> > Rob
>
> > On Jan 27, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
>
> > Recently I shipped out a Phil freewheel hub and a 7sp IRD freewheel to
> > go with it. The customer who received it just emailed me because he
> > had been led to believe that Phil makes a special hub that is
> > compatible with IRD freewheels (from which follows that other Phil
> > hubs are not IRD-compatible). I'm pretty sure that an IRD freewheel
> > works just fine on any hub that has standard threading, including Phil
> > Wood.
>
> > Anybody know about this confusion? What have I missed?
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[Atlantean]

David, something tells me you are right! But you know, it doesn't look
bad on there at all. Some say suspension forks don't go with lugged
frames, but that's about like that nun telling us in 3rd grade that
"Blue and green clash. They are screaming at one another!" at which
point she wadded up some devastated little girl's art paper and threw
it in the trash. But *ahem* I digress. Sorry. Are fresh elastomers
available for those old forks? I thought they got hard with age.
Anyway, as tall as a stock Atlantis fork is, I doubt that fork changed
the handling much. Something with more than 1.5" of travel of course
would.

Coils & oil for me. But my Atlantis is still unsprung.


On Jan 27, 9:45 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> So is it just me, or do I see the subject of a future Bike Snob/RTMS posting
> here?
>
> On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:59 AM, Shaun Meehan wrote:
>
> > Pretty eclectic set-up. I like it. If that Quadra is doing the job for you
> > and you're not wishing for smoother, better damped, more adjustable
> > (etc.) suspension travel, you might just want to consider keeping it. It
> > looks decent and (from my experience) when you get into the higher end forks
> > with oil cartridges, air springs, etc., you're talking about considerably
> > more maintenance. I had a Quadra years ago and you never have to do a thing
> > to it other than clean the seals and lube the stanchions once in a great
> > while.
>
> > Shaun Meehan
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[David Estes]

Maybe he thought he was scoring a deal on a Phil cassette hub,,,

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 9:39 PM, RM  wrote:

> Maybe he was referring to the special Phil "Riv" hub that is available:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/wheels_hubs_and_so_on?a=1&page=1#product=18-259
>
> and thinking he was going to get that one (with cutouts).
>
> Rob
>
>
> On Jan 27, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
>
>
> Recently I shipped out a Phil freewheel hub and a 7sp IRD freewheel to
> go with it. The customer who received it just emailed me because he
> had been led to believe that Phil makes a special hub that is
> compatible with IRD freewheels (from which follows that other Phil
> hubs are not IRD-compatible). I'm pretty sure that an IRD freewheel
> works just fine on any hub that has standard threading, including Phil
> Wood.
>
> Anybody know about this confusion? What have I missed?
>
>
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[RM]

Maybe he was referring to the special Phil "Riv" hub that is available:

http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/wheels_hubs_and_so_on? 
a=1&page=1#product=18-259

and thinking he was going to get that one (with cutouts).

Rob


On Jan 27, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:

>
> Recently I shipped out a Phil freewheel hub and a 7sp IRD freewheel to
> go with it. The customer who received it just emailed me because he
> had been led to believe that Phil makes a special hub that is
> compatible with IRD freewheels (from which follows that other Phil
> hubs are not IRD-compatible). I'm pretty sure that an IRD freewheel
> works just fine on any hub that has standard threading, including Phil
> Wood.
>
> Anybody know about this confusion? What have I missed?
> >


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[gr...@rivbike.com]

I think yes. The 62s with 25.4 top tubes sometimes wiggled. So we went
to 28.6 and it stopped.
G

On Jan 27, 12:27 pm, jim g  wrote:
> On Jan 26, 10:06 pm, "gr...@rivbike.com" 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Also: Bstone top tubes/down tubes were 25.4mm/28.6mm. RIVS are
> > generally 28.6/31.8, with the occasional custom that has a downtube
> > that's 28.6 at the top and 31.8 at the bottom.
>
> Hmm.  My 1993 RB-1/7 (57.5cm) has 28.6mm top and down tubes.  Was that
> the only year they were built that way?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Jim G
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[RBW] Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Recently I shipped out a Phil freewheel hub and a 7sp IRD freewheel to
go with it. The customer who received it just emailed me because he
had been led to believe that Phil makes a special hub that is
compatible with IRD freewheels (from which follows that other Phil
hubs are not IRD-compatible). I'm pretty sure that an IRD freewheel
works just fine on any hub that has standard threading, including Phil
Wood.

Anybody know about this confusion? What have I missed?
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[RBW] bikeTV: Bike Move

[Eric]

To add to the discussion of trailers and moving things via bicycle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq3oSyvXLiY


--Eric Norris
Sent from my iPhone 3G

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[JL]

There is a handy link through Waterford that details the dating for
Waterford built bicycles.  - AFAIK Riv's, Herons, etc included.
I posted the serial number from my '96 road standard backwards the
other day.  I re-read it and it is D96059, or the #59 frame built in
April 1996.

Check it out. Maybe it will help with the EJ date code.

http://www.waterfordbikes.com/2005/data/culture/paramount/sn/over.php


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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[David Estes]

So is it just me, or do I see the subject of a future Bike Snob/RTMS posting
here?

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:59 AM, Shaun Meehan wrote:

> Pretty eclectic set-up. I like it. If that Quadra is doing the job for you
> and you're not wishing for smoother, better damped, more adjustable
> (etc.) suspension travel, you might just want to consider keeping it. It
> looks decent and (from my experience) when you get into the higher end forks
> with oil cartridges, air springs, etc., you're talking about considerably
> more maintenance. I had a Quadra years ago and you never have to do a thing
> to it other than clean the seals and lube the stanchions once in a great
> while.
>
> Shaun Meehan
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[David Estes]

FWIW, everything you really need fits nicely in a BOB trailer...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406328083/


On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 6:55 PM, Paul Cooley  wrote:

>
> I've been through so many trailers!  Now, I use my Xtracycle for most
> utility hauling.  I have a bicycle-based beekeeping business, and for
> that, I use the Bikes-At-Work trailer.  My kids ride on the Xtracycle
> and I haul all my honey to the Farmer's Market on the trailer.  It's a
> heavy load, but I have it geared low.  I also haul my equipment for
> removing honeybee colonies on the Bikes-At-Work trailer.  (It's a
> little nerve wracking moving colonies of bees at night by bicycle, but
> I've certainly proved you can be a small scale beekeeper and not own a
> motor vehicle).
>
> I would disagree with Jim, though, about using it for more normal
> utility activities.  The hitch for it attaches to the bike via hose
> clamps.  It's not the nicest looking thing in the world, if aesthetics
> are important to you.  Mine is mostly hidden by the Xtracycle's
> freeloaders.  If you don't own a car, and want to haul absurd amounts
> of stuff, they're great.  If you just want to pick up groceries from
> time to time, I would go with something a little smaller.
>
> Of course, as a parent, I've used both a Burley D'Lite and a Chariot
> kid trailer.  We wore our first Burley completely out.  The Chariot, I
> didn't like.  There was something weird about the Quick release.  I
> believe the cam piece fit into a recess in the piece that fit against
> the dropout.  A few times, I thought I had the Quick release closed,
> but it wasn't in its recess, and then the tire shifted over and rubbed
> against my frame.  I rode for about three miles like that one day,
> thinking I was just in terrible shape that day.  Consequently, there's
> a lot of touchup paint on my Rivendell's chainstay.  So, we eventually
> replaced it with another Burley D'Lite I found at a thrift store.  It
> looked like it had never been used, and it was pretty cheap considerin'.
>
> Because of my fondness for the D'Lite, I do occasionally think about
> buying a Burley Nomad.  I just can't justify it.
>
> I also have one of those rubbermaid bins-on-a-frame-with-wheels that
> goes along with the Bike Friday.  I think it's called Bicycle R
> Evolution, or something like that.  I didn't like it at first because
> it had a tendency to flip over if you caught a curb with it, but over
> the years, I've grown to love it.  I can lock the Rubbermaid bin.  The
> hitch is simple, and there's a lot of space in there.  The kids and I
> haul it on our Bike Friday triple, and I use it to run errands on my
> single speed and occasionally on my Rivendell.  I wouldn't use it for
> careening down mountains, but as a utility trailer, it's pretty good.
>
> I also had a B.O.B. trailer for a while.  I liked it, but I didn't use
> it as much as my other trailers and sold it with my recumbent when I
> was trying to free up some room in my office.  It also wouldn't fit on
> my Rivendell with my Expedition rear rack on.  Those little
> Frankenstein bolts that jut out from the bottom of the Expedition rack
> are in the way, and I didn't want to pull my rear rack off every time
> I wanted to put the trailer on, so the R Evolution trailer won.
>
> I still think of the B.O.B. as THE touring trailer though, maybe
> because it is pictured in so many of the photos in Adventure Cycling.
> Paul B. Cooley
> Santa Fe, NM
> http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com
>
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Paul Cooley]

I've been through so many trailers!  Now, I use my Xtracycle for most  
utility hauling.  I have a bicycle-based beekeeping business, and for  
that, I use the Bikes-At-Work trailer.  My kids ride on the Xtracycle  
and I haul all my honey to the Farmer's Market on the trailer.  It's a  
heavy load, but I have it geared low.  I also haul my equipment for  
removing honeybee colonies on the Bikes-At-Work trailer.  (It's a  
little nerve wracking moving colonies of bees at night by bicycle, but  
I've certainly proved you can be a small scale beekeeper and not own a  
motor vehicle).

I would disagree with Jim, though, about using it for more normal  
utility activities.  The hitch for it attaches to the bike via hose  
clamps.  It's not the nicest looking thing in the world, if aesthetics  
are important to you.  Mine is mostly hidden by the Xtracycle's  
freeloaders.  If you don't own a car, and want to haul absurd amounts  
of stuff, they're great.  If you just want to pick up groceries from  
time to time, I would go with something a little smaller.

Of course, as a parent, I've used both a Burley D'Lite and a Chariot  
kid trailer.  We wore our first Burley completely out.  The Chariot, I  
didn't like.  There was something weird about the Quick release.  I  
believe the cam piece fit into a recess in the piece that fit against  
the dropout.  A few times, I thought I had the Quick release closed,  
but it wasn't in its recess, and then the tire shifted over and rubbed  
against my frame.  I rode for about three miles like that one day,  
thinking I was just in terrible shape that day.  Consequently, there's  
a lot of touchup paint on my Rivendell's chainstay.  So, we eventually  
replaced it with another Burley D'Lite I found at a thrift store.  It  
looked like it had never been used, and it was pretty cheap considerin'.

Because of my fondness for the D'Lite, I do occasionally think about  
buying a Burley Nomad.  I just can't justify it.

I also have one of those rubbermaid bins-on-a-frame-with-wheels that  
goes along with the Bike Friday.  I think it's called Bicycle R  
Evolution, or something like that.  I didn't like it at first because  
it had a tendency to flip over if you caught a curb with it, but over  
the years, I've grown to love it.  I can lock the Rubbermaid bin.  The  
hitch is simple, and there's a lot of space in there.  The kids and I  
haul it on our Bike Friday triple, and I use it to run errands on my  
single speed and occasionally on my Rivendell.  I wouldn't use it for  
careening down mountains, but as a utility trailer, it's pretty good.

I also had a B.O.B. trailer for a while.  I liked it, but I didn't use  
it as much as my other trailers and sold it with my recumbent when I  
was trying to free up some room in my office.  It also wouldn't fit on  
my Rivendell with my Expedition rear rack on.  Those little  
Frankenstein bolts that jut out from the bottom of the Expedition rack  
are in the way, and I didn't want to pull my rear rack off every time  
I wanted to put the trailer on, so the R Evolution trailer won.

I still think of the B.O.B. as THE touring trailer though, maybe  
because it is pictured in so many of the photos in Adventure Cycling.
Paul B. Cooley
Santa Fe, NM
http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com


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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Paul Cooley]

I just set my SON hub up.  I have an eDelux attached to a Velo Orange  
front rack, and I run the wire for the taillight from the headlight,  
down the downtube, along the chainstay and fender stay and up to the  
light.  I did use a few black zip ties.  I think two on the downtube,  
two on the chainstay, and one on the fender stay.  I think the fender  
stay is safer to run the wire along because it isn't going to be  
abraded by road objects.

Also, be sure you have enough free play in the wire at the headset to  
wrap around when you turn the handlebars all the way to the side.

Paul B. Cooley
Santa Fe, NM
http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com

On Jan 27, 2009, at 5:54 PM, John Ferguson wrote:


Hi all,

I'm getting to the point where I need to start thinking about wiring
my SON generator hub to the head and taillights. Do any of you have
good advice on how to wire everything up neatly? I'm going to mount my
headlight on the fork using the Gino mount. Most of the pictures I've
seen of front light wiring involve Zip ties or plastic packing tape.

More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
the downtube.

I've been hunting online for pictures of good installations, so if you
know of one, please let me know.

John


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[RBW] Re: Holiday Catalog!

[J. Burkhalter]

Ditto!  Mine arrived today.  Got me thinking I should probably ask to
be taken off the catalog mailing list.   As much as I love getting
mail, I'm not sure this is what Grant intended.  And I know RBW could
use that money elsewhere.  I'd settle for a groovy little postcard
with a link to check out a special Holiday PDF (oh, but I still gotta
have a hard copy RR!).

-Jay B.
gettin' mail 6 days a week even in l'il ol' Asheville, NC



On Jan 27, 10:16 pm, rrupp  wrote:
> I seem to recall people noting last month when the got their RBW
> Holiday 2008 flyers.  Well, I got mine today.  You might think I live
> in some far away locale like Tonga, or Palmyra Atoll, but no - I live
> in North Carolina.   It's not crumpled or ripped, and the address is
> correct, so I'm not sure what took so long.
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[RBW] Re: atlantis traveler

[David Estes]

That sounds good... :)

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 6:44 AM, d2mini  wrote:

>
> Thank you.
> It's being treated very nicely by another local Riv lover who couldn't
> afford to buy a new one.
> I moved from the 58cm 700c Atlantis to a 56cm 650b Homer.
>
>
> On Jan 26, 10:07 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> > What happened to it?  I've always thought it was quite stunning!  Black
> (or
> > "pewter") with cream is about my favorite color scheme...
> >
> > DE
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 8:02 PM, d2mini  wrote:
> >
> > > Ah, that nice looking!
> > > Reminds me of my old Atlantis.
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelemonphoto/2614242426/
> >
> > > On Jan 26, 4:42 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Thought some of you may be interested in seeing photos of my
> Atlantis,
> > > > which has a somewhat atypical configuration. This is the bike I'll be
> > > > bringing for the SoCal RBW Owners ride in March:
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/tags/travelbike/
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Catalog!

[Jack]

Same here in Virginia - got mine Monday. It's in perfect condition
with the correct address, but at least six weeks too late to be of
use. Too bad, and I assume RBW spent good money getting it printed and
mailed.

On Jan 27, 10:16 pm, rrupp  wrote:
> I seem to recall people noting last month when the got their RBW
> Holiday 2008 flyers.  Well, I got mine today.  You might think I live
> in some far away locale like Tonga, or Palmyra Atoll, but no - I live
> in North Carolina.   It's not crumpled or ripped, and the address is
> correct, so I'm not sure what took so long.
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[Bill M.]

SOMA sells silver, 26 mm clamp stems in 17 and 40 degree slopes,
though relatively few sizes are in stock at the moment.  The 17 degree
VO stems aren't due for a month or two.

Bill

On Jan 27, 11:14 am, Brewster Fong  wrote:

> For threadless, what appears to be missing is an upsloping SILVER
> stem. On my Calfee, which I bought used in 97, it came with a fork cut
> so low I almost thought it wouldn't fit headset. Since I run my bars
> at the same height as my saddle, I was lucky to find a BLACK
> threadless stem from Salsa that has a big rise (105 degree). In
> contrast, for silver stems, the best is about 10 degree rise.
>
> However, it appears Velo Orange may be coming to the rescue. According
> to his Blog, Chris K says there is a VO SILVER threadless stem that
> will be + or - 17 degrees. Therefore, if you really want or need, you
> can get down like a racer or if you're an old guy like me, you flip it
> around and get those bars up high!

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Eric]

I use Nimh batteries. Last for years of charges.

--Eric Norris
Sent from my iPhone 3G

On Jan 27, 2009, at 5:35 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:

>
> On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 8:33 PM, Eric Norris   
> wrote:
>>
>> John:
>>
>> IMHO, with all the excellent choices in battery-powered taillights  
>> (like the Super Flash) out there, the day of the wired taillight is  
>> over.  By the time you route the wires, drill holes, get our the  
>> zip ties, etc., you could have mounted a battery-powered taillight  
>> and been riding for two hours--and your bike won't have an  
>> unsightly wires flapping against the frame.
>>
>
> The problem with all the battery-mounted tail lights, of course, is
> that they require batteries. Landfill-using, toxic mess causing
> batteries.
>
> -sv
>
> >

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[mark]

I thought the day of the wired taillight was over until I found myself
a few miles from home on a busy highway with half dead batteries in my
taillight. Not a nice feeling at all. My winter commute bike has a
battery powered taillight because I take the lights, fenders and
studded tires off for summer use, but the tourer has a wired taillight
running off the SON and I like it a lot better. I do use a Super Flash
in blink mode on both bikes to augment the non-flashing taillight, but
it's reassuring to have one light that always works when the bike is
moving.

The winter bike and the tourer have the headlight at the fork crown
and the wire wrapped around the fork leg from the hub to the light,
with zip ties at the ends to keep everything tidy. For the taillight
on the tourer, the wire runs under the seat tube with the computer
speed and cadence wires, under the BB shell, wrapped around the chain
stay a few times on its way to the rear dropout, up the leg of the
rear rack and to the light. If you're going to carry panniers it might
not hurt to wrap the wires in electrical tape where it follows the leg
of the rack. I use zip ties at crucial points to keep the wires tidy.

If you locate the wires carefully under the seat tube and BB shell
they really aren't that obtrusive, and if you don't like the look of
zip ties I suppose you could glue the wires in place or use clear
plastic packing tape. If you really wanted to be fastidious I suppose
you could route the taillight wire under the chainstay protector, but
I'm just not that fussy.
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[RBW] Holiday Catalog!

[rrupp]

I seem to recall people noting last month when the got their RBW
Holiday 2008 flyers.  Well, I got mine today.  You might think I live
in some far away locale like Tonga, or Palmyra Atoll, but no - I live
in North Carolina.   It's not crumpled or ripped, and the address is
correct, so I'm not sure what took so long.
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[BPustow]

My last post made me think. I came over to steel lugged  Rivendells from 
riding a LItespeed Vortex ( the one Lance used, painted as an  Eddie Merx, 
while 
riding for Motorola), and, while I still love and ride  the Litespeed, I never 
felt the need to give it a name as I've done with Homer,  Maureen, and Hunter.
   Is it just me?
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 1/27/2009 9:29:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
bpus...@aol.com writes:

  While we do have enough hills that require a bike with a triple, I  haven't 
taken Maureen on those routes. The longest I've taken her is on a club  60 
miler - and enjoyed every minute
Bill


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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[David Estes]

JS=Joe Stark, no matter what the year was (I think).

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 5:32 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:

>
>
> On Jan 27, 2009, at 3:25 PM, Jon Muellner wrote:
>
> >
> > Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
> >> I don't think JS was building for RBW yet in '95.  My
> >> definitely-built-by-Joe Road Std. from 1999 has a serial #
> >> starting with JS
> >> and also "JS" and the date written on the BB shell after paint.
> >> The bikes
> >> with the purple 753 tubing decal and 531 forks are all Waterford
> >> built
> >> AFAIK.  The year would make sense for a Waterford build.  Do the
> >> decals have
> >> a line/spear through the middle?
> >
> > Yes, there is a line/spear through the middle of the downtube decals.
> >
> > I had wondered if it was a Waterford, but have never figured out the
> > timing of their builds with Riv. I guess I could send them a note as
> > well and ask.
>
> Does it have a "made in Waterford WI" decal on the left chainstay?
>
> In 1995 all Rivendell frames were being made at Waterford AFAIK.  My
> understanding is that the Riv serial numbers follow the Waterford
> conventions.  My 1996 All-Rounder was built at Waterford, as was my
> wife's Heron.
>
>
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Angus]

Colin,

I ride my Quickbeam in the Tyler TX area and find my self shifting
less and less frequently.  I pick a geat at the begining of the ride
and stick with it.  If I end up with a long slog into the wind or a
steep uphill, I would drop it down a gear...assuming I'm not already
in the low one.

Angus

On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[David Estes]

Love reading all the comments, great question!

I switch gears VERY rarely.  Only on pretty steep roads and/or dirt trails.
Dropping from the 40 to the 32 is VERY easy.  I just use my thump nail or a
nearby rock to avoid getting greasy.  I never flip to fixed/free during a
ride though.

If you're riding in the flatlands, don't bother worrying about it, just find
the right gear (unless there's wind, as mentioned).

DE

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 3:30 PM, colin p. cummings  wrote:

>
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[erik jensen]

i'm 48x19, fixed. Soon to be 48x18 since i got used to much more rolling
resistance from my winter bike--i spin that gear out on the flats anymore,
and don't need the advantage of prime cogs as i don't skid stop on the beam.

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 8:05 PM, Dan  wrote:

>
> I don't think that I have ever shifted mine but I plan on doing some
> more riding on unpaved trails this spring and I can see switching to
> the smaller chainring for the off road portions as I have found the 40
> x16 I usually run a little tall for any offroad with a bit of  hills.
>
> Dan Abelson
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
> > As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> > changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> > frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> > live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> > changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Colin Cummings
> > Amarillo, TX
> >
>

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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[BPustow]

Colin,
   Here in Kentucky, I never change gears on the Quickbeam.  While it's hard 
to find a flat road, most of the hills are short enough that it  would not be 
worth my while to shift at the bottom and again at the top. 
   While we do have enough hills that require a bike with a  triple, I 
haven't taken Maureen on those routes. The longest I've taken her is  on a club 
60 
miler - and enjoyed every minute
Bill
 
 
 
In a message dated 1/27/2009 6:31:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
colinthehip...@gmail.com writes:

As a  survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
changing on a  regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
frame and am  wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
live in a  pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
changing gears to  climb out of a canyon...


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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Dan]

I don't think that I have ever shifted mine but I plan on doing some
more riding on unpaved trails this spring and I can see switching to
the smaller chainring for the off road portions as I have found the 40
x16 I usually run a little tall for any offroad with a bit of  hills.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[fiddlr40]

I shift to 32-20 for climbing Mt Diablo or for riding on mountain
trails -- otherwise it stays 40-16, so I don't shift very often. I
could probably change to one chainring and 2 rear cogs if I wanted to
find the right combination, but I'm too lazy to do that.

Jim M
walnut creek

On Jan 27, 3:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Joan Oppel]

  I have a Burley Nomad, the cargo trailer with a cover and I have a 
Bleriot that I use to pull it.  I use it for groceries and other cargo 
(kitty litter and catfood).  I really like how easy it is to hitch (mine 
is a 2008 version).  The hitch fits in the quick release lever and takes 
about a minute to install.  No part of the trailer arm or hitch touches 
any part of the bike.

I find it easy to use and smooth riding.  I only notice it being there 
when it's heavily loaded and I'm starting up hill.  The cover comes off 
easily or part way if some item is too tall for it.

Pictures here (sorry there's no shot of the hitch side).
http://tinyurl.com/bmx55d

Joan Oppel

On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at  5:38 PM, avillage wrote:

>
Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
looking forward to a great ride.

One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
opinion.

Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[RonLau]

I know one QB rider actually switches gear in the middle of the ride.
It only takes a minute if you done it a few times but I will not do
that myself.  Not because one minute will change the ride, but I don't
like getting cold and get grease on my fingers if I don't have to.

For a while I was going to do a 42/39 in the front and 17/20 in the
rear fixedgear, but after a while I drop that idea because when I ride
fixedgear, I ride one gear.  If I want gears, I bring my other bike
with gears.

Just my 2 cents.

On Jan 27, 4:03 pm, Elfardo  wrote:
> Hey Colin,
>
> Man, I don't think I'd bother with 4 gears up in the flatlands. I ride
> two (68 inches and 53 inches I think) down here in Austin and that's
> plenty.
>
> I've considered getting a dos for the hill country but kinda doubt I
> will anytime soon. Just doesn't seem like I need to. Of course, the
> hills aren't as much of an issue as wind up on the caprock. Still, I
> think the 50ish inch low gear would work fine.
>
> You're going to dig the Quickbeam.  If I make it up to see the kinfolk
> with my QB we'll have to find some dirt roads to ride.
>
> Ride on,
> Clif Wright
>
> On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
>
> > As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> > changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> > frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> > live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> > changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Colin Cummings
> > Amarillo, TX

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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Ray Shine]

Colin -- I live in San Francisco, and do most of my riding in the city, Marin 
County to the north, and San Mateo/Santa Clara to the south.  All in all, many 
more hills than flats, and many steep rides (I enjoy climbing).  I have 
configured my QB with stock chain rings, but a White Industries 16/18 free on 
the drive side, and a 20 free on the flip side. After all of that, I do about 
65% of my riding in the 40x18, another30% in the 32x18, and I use the flip side 
20 for long extended climbs up Mt Tam in Marin, or Mt. Diablo in the east bay.  
I can't remember when I last used the 16. For the record, I'm no hammer rider, 
I just tool along.

Ray

--- On Tue, 1/27/09, colin p. cummings  wrote:
From: colin p. cummings 
Subject: [RBW] QB gear changes
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 3:30 PM

As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
changing gears to climb out of a canyon...

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX


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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Seth Vidal]

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 8:33 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>
> John:
>
> IMHO, with all the excellent choices in battery-powered taillights (like the 
> Super Flash) out there, the day of the wired taillight is over.  By the time 
> you route the wires, drill holes, get our the zip ties, etc., you could have 
> mounted a battery-powered taillight and been riding for two hours--and your 
> bike won't have an unsightly wires flapping against the frame.
>

The problem with all the battery-mounted tail lights, of course, is
that they require batteries. Landfill-using, toxic mess causing
batteries.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Eric Norris]

John:

IMHO, with all the excellent choices in battery-powered taillights (like the 
Super Flash) out there, the day of the wired taillight is over.  By the time 
you route the wires, drill holes, get our the zip ties, etc., you could have 
mounted a battery-powered taillight and been riding for two hours--and your 
bike won't have an unsightly wires flapping against the frame.  

--Eric
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

 
On Tuesday, January 27, 2009, at 04:54PM, "John Ferguson"  
wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm getting to the point where I need to start thinking about wiring
>my SON generator hub to the head and taillights. Do any of you have
>good advice on how to wire everything up neatly? I'm going to mount my
>headlight on the fork using the Gino mount. Most of the pictures I've
>seen of front light wiring involve Zip ties or plastic packing tape.
>
>More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
>battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
>aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
>modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
>small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
>fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
>the downtube.
>
>I've been hunting online for pictures of good installations, so if you
>know of one, please let me know.
>
>John
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Tim McNamara]

On Jan 27, 2009, at 3:25 PM, Jon Muellner wrote:

>
> Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>> I don't think JS was building for RBW yet in '95.  My
>> definitely-built-by-Joe Road Std. from 1999 has a serial #  
>> starting with JS
>> and also "JS" and the date written on the BB shell after paint.   
>> The bikes
>> with the purple 753 tubing decal and 531 forks are all Waterford  
>> built
>> AFAIK.  The year would make sense for a Waterford build.  Do the  
>> decals have
>> a line/spear through the middle?
>
> Yes, there is a line/spear through the middle of the downtube decals.
>
> I had wondered if it was a Waterford, but have never figured out the
> timing of their builds with Riv. I guess I could send them a note as
> well and ask.

Does it have a "made in Waterford WI" decal on the left chainstay?

In 1995 all Rivendell frames were being made at Waterford AFAIK.  My  
understanding is that the Riv serial numbers follow the Waterford  
conventions.  My 1996 All-Rounder was built at Waterford, as was my  
wife's Heron.



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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Bill Gibson]

I sprang for a dos, and I, too, just pick a gear and ride on any given
ride. I live in a schizoid region which is as flat as Amarillo (inside
the Phoenix AZ metro sprawl), and as hilly as it gets anywhere on the
roads (White Mountains and Mogollon Rim, basic Basin and Range,
Mountain and Abyss topography). Wind is wind, and sometimes no gear
makes much of a difference, but I always tell myself to gear low and
ride slow to save the knees, it's the airspeed that matters, etc. I
got it with the idea that when touring (I tend to ride heavy with
gear), I wouldn't be stopped, just left behind...

However, it's the smooth and sophisticated machining of the cogs (my
imagination?) and the expensive Salt-Water Fly-Fishing Reel sound of
the all those pawls that really made more of an impression on me, once
I got it. It's louder than cheaper freewheels when coasting, but in
town and down fast runs and on long days, I'm not fixed, I'm free. I
like riding fixed, just not so much in homicidal urban traffic. And I
feel like I'm riding a bike I can ride forever, anywhere. Just not too
hastily. Hoom.

See Kent Peterson's post:
http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2009/01/tringle-speed-bicycle.html

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 5:03 PM, Elfardo  wrote:
>
> Hey Colin,
>
> Man, I don't think I'd bother with 4 gears up in the flatlands. I ride
> two (68 inches and 53 inches I think) down here in Austin and that's
> plenty.
>
> I've considered getting a dos for the hill country but kinda doubt I
> will anytime soon. Just doesn't seem like I need to. Of course, the
> hills aren't as much of an issue as wind up on the caprock. Still, I
> think the 50ish inch low gear would work fine.
>
> You're going to dig the Quickbeam.  If I make it up to see the kinfolk
> with my QB we'll have to find some dirt roads to ride.
>
> Ride on,
> Clif Wright
>
> On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
>> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
>> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
>> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
>> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
>> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Colin Cummings
>> Amarillo, TX
> >
>



-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Wiring advice

[John Ferguson]

Hi all,

I'm getting to the point where I need to start thinking about wiring
my SON generator hub to the head and taillights. Do any of you have
good advice on how to wire everything up neatly? I'm going to mount my
headlight on the fork using the Gino mount. Most of the pictures I've
seen of front light wiring involve Zip ties or plastic packing tape.

More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
the downtube.

I've been hunting online for pictures of good installations, so if you
know of one, please let me know.

John
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Elfardo]

Hey Colin,

Man, I don't think I'd bother with 4 gears up in the flatlands. I ride
two (68 inches and 53 inches I think) down here in Austin and that's
plenty.

I've considered getting a dos for the hill country but kinda doubt I
will anytime soon. Just doesn't seem like I need to. Of course, the
hills aren't as much of an issue as wind up on the caprock. Still, I
think the 50ish inch low gear would work fine.

You're going to dig the Quickbeam.  If I make it up to see the kinfolk
with my QB we'll have to find some dirt roads to ride.

Ride on,
Clif Wright

On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Eric Norris]

In my humble experience, you pick a gear and stick with it.  I rode  
72" across California and Nevada and for all of Paris-Brest-Paris.  I  
rode all four brevets in the 2007 season and changed gears a total of  
about three times (all on the 600K brevet, and two of those changes to  
were to gear down for several miles of 10% uphill and then back down  
again).

--Eric "Who Needs Gears?" Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



On Jan 27, 2009, at 3:30 PM, colin p. cummings wrote:

>
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
> >


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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Jeremy Till]

Not a QB, but i do most of my riding on bike with a fixed/SS flip
flop, with a 56" fixed gear and 40-something-ish" freewheel gear.
Whether or not I flip really depends on my mood, but when i do flip to
the lower-geared freewheel it's for an extended climb or
descentmost other times I just keep it fixed.

On Jan 27, 3:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Any inside information on the new Sackville Bags?

[Joe Bartoe]

It's dark in there, especially with the flap closed!

> Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 15:08:38 -0800
> Subject: [RBW] Any inside information on the new Sackville Bags?
> From: clankbonesh...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> 
> I recall reading in November that the Sackville Bags should be
> arriving anytime. Does anyone have any insider news on these bags? I
> know the norm is that things get delayed and patients is the best
> approach to fine things, but I was just wondering if anyone knew
> anything.
> > 

_
Windows Live™: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. 
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_012009
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[RBW] QB gear changes

[colin p. cummings]

As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
changing gears to climb out of a canyon...

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: FS: 58cm Saluki frame

[colin p. cummings]

Bike is sold.

On Jan 27, 12:00 pm, John Ferguson  wrote:
> Just e-mailed you.
>
> On Jan 26, 3:46 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Okay,
>
> > Trying again, this time with pictures availble.  For $1600, shipping
> > included.  Hoping someone out there wants a 58cm Saluki, bright red,
> > with canti studs and oodles of class...
>
> > Pics at:http://tinyurl.com/b7e8sk
>
> > Colin Cummings
> > Amarillo, TX- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Any inside information on the new Sackville Bags?

[scott]

I recall reading in November that the Sackville Bags should be
arriving anytime. Does anyone have any insider news on these bags? I
know the norm is that things get delayed and patients is the best
approach to fine things, but I was just wondering if anyone knew
anything.
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Shaun Meehan]

The Softride stems aren't in production anymore. The ones that're for sale
on the website are NOS. I wanted a 9/8"er for my mountain bike and I had to
go to eBay. They're not that hard to find there (in various lengths).
They're great for general off-road riding on bumpy trails IMO.

Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Dustin Sharp]

One size fits all, apparently. 150mm.

Dustin


> From: Mike 
> Reply-To: 
> Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 13:36:28 -0800 (PST)
> To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork
> 
> 
> Wow, I had no idea those were still in production. I had one on my
> MB-2 and it was great, especially on washboard type stuff. It might
> work well on an Atlantis or Bombadil.
> 
> --mike
> 
> On Jan 27, 11:14 am, jim g  wrote:
>> Have you considered a Softride Suspension Stem?
>> 
>> That'd be cheaper, and probably more harmonious with a Rivendell.
>> 
>> http://www.softride.com/bikes/bike_accessories/powerstem.html
>> 
>> Other sizes/models can be found on Ebay.
>> 
>> -Jim G
>> 
>> On Jan 27, 7:21 am, clayton  wrote:
>> 
>>> I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
>>> would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
>>> steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
>>> the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
>>> travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
>>> to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
>>> wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
>>> ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
>>> from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
>>> Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
>>> suggestions? Recommendations?
>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> Clayton
> > 
> 



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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Mike]

Wow, I had no idea those were still in production. I had one on my
MB-2 and it was great, especially on washboard type stuff. It might
work well on an Atlantis or Bombadil.

--mike

On Jan 27, 11:14 am, jim g  wrote:
> Have you considered a Softride Suspension Stem?
>
> That'd be cheaper, and probably more harmonious with a Rivendell.
>
> http://www.softride.com/bikes/bike_accessories/powerstem.html
>
> Other sizes/models can be found on Ebay.
>
> -Jim G
>
> On Jan 27, 7:21 am, clayton  wrote:
>
> > I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
> > would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
> > steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
> > the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
> > travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
> > to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
> > wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
> > ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
> > from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
> > Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
> > suggestions? Recommendations?
>
> > Thanks!
> > Clayton
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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Jon Muellner]

Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>I don't think JS was building for RBW yet in '95.  My
> definitely-built-by-Joe Road Std. from 1999 has a serial # starting with JS
> and also "JS" and the date written on the BB shell after paint.  The bikes
> with the purple 753 tubing decal and 531 forks are all Waterford built
> AFAIK.  The year would make sense for a Waterford build.  Do the decals have
> a line/spear through the middle?

Yes, there is a line/spear through the middle of the downtube decals.

I had wondered if it was a Waterford, but have never figured out the
timing of their builds with Riv. I guess I could send them a note as
well and ask.

Thanks,

Jon
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[CycloFiend]

Just as a general thing to keep in mind, that Quadra probably has at most
40-60 mm's of travel, where newer forks probably start at 80 mm.  All these
things will effect steering and handling significantly.  (And you can get an
idea of "true" travel by putting a ziptie on the the stanchion and going for
a ride.  Then measure the difference between that the top of the fork
lowers.)

There are a lot of references to be found about adding suspension to frames
that were not designed for it.   It changes the head angle, wheelbase and
"wheel flop" characteristics.  It can also (especially on longer travel
forks), put significantly different stresses on the headtube of a bicycle.

Not trying to scare anyone away from that type of project, just illuminate
some of the variables.

Marzocchi, White and RockShox (early models) all used crowns with bolt-on
stanchions rather than press fit.  Sometimes you can find replacement crowns
with different sized steerers.

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes


on 1/27/09 12:03 PM, Timothy Whalen at whalen...@gmail.com wrote:

Clayton,

I've thought about doing the same thing to my Atlantis. Where are you
finding a White Bros. shock with 1" steerer?
Thanks,
Tim

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:14 PM, jim g  wrote:

Have you considered a Softride Suspension Stem?

That'd be cheaper, and probably more harmonious with a Rivendell.

http://www.softride.com/bikes/bike_accessories/powerstem.html

Other sizes/models can be found on Ebay.

-Jim G



On Jan 27, 7:21 am, clayton  wrote:
> I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
> would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
> steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
> the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
> travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
> to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
> wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
> ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
> from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
> Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
> suggestions? Recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
> Clayton




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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[jim g]

On Jan 26, 10:06 pm, "gr...@rivbike.com" 
wrote:
>
> Also: Bstone top tubes/down tubes were 25.4mm/28.6mm. RIVS are
> generally 28.6/31.8, with the occasional custom that has a downtube
> that's 28.6 at the top and 31.8 at the bottom.
>


Hmm.  My 1993 RB-1/7 (57.5cm) has 28.6mm top and down tubes.  Was that
the only year they were built that way?

Thanks,

-Jim G


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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Timothy Whalen]

Clayton,

I've thought about doing the same thing to my Atlantis. Where are you
finding a White Bros. shock with 1" steerer?
Thanks,
Tim

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:14 PM, jim g  wrote:

>
> Have you considered a Softride Suspension Stem?
>
> That'd be cheaper, and probably more harmonious with a Rivendell.
>
> http://www.softride.com/bikes/bike_accessories/powerstem.html
>
> Other sizes/models can be found on Ebay.
>
> -Jim G
>
>
>
> On Jan 27, 7:21 am, clayton  wrote:
> > I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
> > would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
> > steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
> > the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
> > travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
> > to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
> > wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
> > ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
> > from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
> > Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
> > suggestions? Recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Clayton
> >
>

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Eric Norris]

My Riv Road was built in 1997 and has "JS" painted on the bottom  
bracket.

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



On Jan 27, 2009, at 11:23 AM, Jon Muellner wrote:

>
> I have a Riv Road with the serial number: C or G (or something
> similar) then 95015. There are also initials EJ.
>
> From what I gather, this was a Joe Starck-built custom from 1995 and
> was the 15th frame that year, but I don't understand the first letter
> or symbol and the "EJ". Any ideas?
>
> It's Reynolds 753 with 531 forks (there are two). I bought it for my
> wife; it's too small for her and am not sure my daughter is ready for
> it (not the bike I want her to chain up at the middle school), so I
> may end up selling it to get them something that fits them...I wish it
> fit me.
>
> Thanks for any input!
>
> Jon
> j...@mountainbike.org
> >


--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org




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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Doug Van Cleve]

Hey John,

I don't think JS was building for RBW yet in '95.  My
definitely-built-by-Joe Road Std. from 1999 has a serial # starting with JS
and also "JS" and the date written on the BB shell after paint.  The bikes
with the purple 753 tubing decal and 531 forks are all Waterford built
AFAIK.  The year would make sense for a Waterford build.  Do the decals have
a line/spear through the middle?

Doug


On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:23 PM, Jon Muellner  wrote:

>
> I have a Riv Road with the serial number: C or G (or something
> similar) then 95015. There are also initials EJ.
>
> From what I gather, this was a Joe Starck-built custom from 1995 and
> was the 15th frame that year, but I don't understand the first letter
> or symbol and the "EJ". Any ideas?
>
> It's Reynolds 753 with 531 forks (there are two). I bought it for my
> wife; it's too small for her and am not sure my daughter is ready for
> it (not the bike I want her to chain up at the middle school), so I
> may end up selling it to get them something that fits them...I wish it
> fit me.
>
> Thanks for any input!
>
> Jon
> j...@mountainbike.org

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[RBW] Older Riv Road dating

[Jon Muellner]

I have a Riv Road with the serial number: C or G (or something
similar) then 95015. There are also initials EJ.

>From what I gather, this was a Joe Starck-built custom from 1995 and
was the 15th frame that year, but I don't understand the first letter
or symbol and the "EJ". Any ideas?

It's Reynolds 753 with 531 forks (there are two). I bought it for my
wife; it's too small for her and am not sure my daughter is ready for
it (not the bike I want her to chain up at the middle school), so I
may end up selling it to get them something that fits them...I wish it
fit me.

Thanks for any input!

Jon
j...@mountainbike.org
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[jim g]

Have you considered a Softride Suspension Stem?

That'd be cheaper, and probably more harmonious with a Rivendell.

http://www.softride.com/bikes/bike_accessories/powerstem.html

Other sizes/models can be found on Ebay.

-Jim G



On Jan 27, 7:21 am, clayton  wrote:
> I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
> would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
> steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
> the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
> travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
> to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
> wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
> ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
> from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
> Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
> suggestions? Recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
> Clayton
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[Brewster Fong]

On Jan 27, 7:37 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> I'm not sure that I agree.  I think rather the biggest resistance is
> that on many bikes you just can't get the bars that high: threadless
> where the fork steerer has been cut short, non-long quill Nitto threaded
> stems, etc. all dramatically limit the height to which you can raise the
> bars.  Rivendell employs several tricks including upsloping top tubes
> and head tube extensions to make that high bar possible.
>
For threadless, what appears to be missing is an upsloping SILVER
stem. On my Calfee, which I bought used in 97, it came with a fork cut
so low I almost thought it wouldn't fit headset. Since I run my bars
at the same height as my saddle, I was lucky to find a BLACK
threadless stem from Salsa that has a big rise (105 degree). In
contrast, for silver stems, the best is about 10 degree rise.

However, it appears Velo Orange may be coming to the rescue. According
to his Blog, Chris K says there is a VO SILVER threadless stem that
will be + or - 17 degrees. Therefore, if you really want or need, you
can get down like a racer or if you're an old guy like me, you flip it
around and get those bars up high!

> Also, as we've seen several times on the iBOB list, there are plenty of
> riders out there who find a high bar physically very uncomfortable.
> They're not propagandized racer-wannabees, either.  

Well, that just shows cycling is not a "one-size-fits-all!"  If you
can ride with low bars that drop 6-8 inches, hey, go for it. Whatever
works to get you out on the road is what really matters!
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[RBW] Phil BB on my Bombadil

[Marty]

Just installed a Phil BB on my 60cm/700c Bombadil. 130 symetrical - my
177.5 TA Zephyr's (the very last set Peter White had in stock almost
two years ago) fits great. I checked in with the Phil techs to be sure
I was doing it right. Good advice from them here: (Thanks Bruno!)

"The rings will not fit over the bearings by hand, BUT they will when
you install the BB. It is designed to be a snug/press fit. As you
install the BB into you frame,  thread the non-drive cup in a few
threads to help guide the BB, then thread in drive-side cup. You will
feel resistance as the cups overlap the O.D of the bearings. Do not
overtighten the cups. 20 ft-lbs at most. The retaining compound will
retain the cups in place. I even recommend backing-out one cup an
1/8th of a turn after the splins/ridges of the cups have made contact
with bearings and/or you feel you have reach full contact. This will
prevent any stress on the bearings, and premature wear."

I was always a bit leery about that press fit. Now I'm a little more
confident. Guess I'll have to re-learn in 30,000 miles though, my
memory is good for only about 15K. BTW - I ordered some VO Zeppelin
fenders for the beast. More photos once they are on.

Marty
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[RBW] Re: FS: 58cm Saluki frame

[John Ferguson]

Just e-mailed you.

On Jan 26, 3:46 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> Okay,
>
> Trying again, this time with pictures availble.  For $1600, shipping
> included.  Hoping someone out there wants a 58cm Saluki, bright red,
> with canti studs and oodles of class...
>
> Pics at:http://tinyurl.com/b7e8sk
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Bill Connell]

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 11:07 AM, avillage  wrote:
>
> I appreciate what I've seen so far. Thanks. What experience do you
> have with the hitches? I mean, does one put more pressure on the bike
> or a chainstay than another?

I've only used the older style Burley hitch, which works well, but
makes a pea-sized chip out of the left seatstay paint. Their newer
hitch looks much better.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: racing bikes?

[James Dinneen]

What are the handlebars and what is the clamp diameter?   Jim D. Massachusetts

--- On Tue, 1/27/09, Sarah Gibson  wrote:

From: Sarah Gibson 
Subject: [RBW] racing bikes?
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 10:37 AM




#yiv502756768 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv502756768 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}

have to look like racing bikes?
ah yes
this set up
inspired great gasps
from some other listserve
"how dare she."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/acmebicycle/sets/72157607122820128/
peace



well behaved women rarely make history
_ride yr friggin bicycle_
 






From: dfal...@charter.net
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 07:30:03 -0800





I'm preaching to the choir here, but the biggest resistance to raising the stem 
on road bikes comes from the aesthetic of the "racing bike look".  Almost no 
one (please note that I said "almost no one") could rationally claim that 
having bars significantly lower than the saddle is more comfortable; yet the 
image of the racing bike is so ingrained in the bike culture that variants are 
considered freakish and wrong, regardless of comfort or proper fit.  I had a 
beautiful Eisentraut in the 70's and early 80's, and it never felt right so I 
sold it.  Looking back, I had the stem so far down that my back and neck always 
hurt.  It sure looked good, and at the time I would have rather suffered than 
look non-racy by raising the stem.
 

- Original Message - 
From: gr...@rivbike.com 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 10:06 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing


 Basic geo diffs btw RIV roadish bikes & RB-1

The RBs have shorter chainstays and less BB drop, for higher bottom
brackets, and less tire clearance. There were many forces a-pulling at
the time:

Sales reps and dlrs would tolerate no chainstay longer than 41.5.
The brakes available were short-reach, which, even if reps-n-dealers
would have tolerated bigger tires (and if I were as hip to them then
as I am now---I don't want to point fingers only away---well, the
short reach brakes forced skinny tires. Still, those Bstones had more
clearance than their contemporaries, and judged by their time they
looked pretty smart.
I've learned a lot since then, and my values have shifted some, and
from RIV onward I didn't have to satisfy anybody else---so immediately
I went to longer chainstays and more bb drop (lower bbs). I used to
believe that longer femurs dictated shallower seat tube angles &
shorter 'murs need steeper ones, but I realized that was pish-posh,
and so those incrementally shallower-as-they-got-bigger seat tube
angles I was so fantastically proud of back then...well, good
intentions, but all for naught. I think it was Tony Oliver's book that
set me straight on that, and it's so obvious once you understand it.

My "high bars" phase came from a guy named Bob Gordon talking my head
off about it, and it led to a RR article called Raise Dat Stem. All
you have to do is try it...and yep, there may be some who prefer low
bars, but I tend to think they're anatomically different in invisible
ways, or in denial, or too stubborn. Something. Part of raising the
bar is raising the front end of the bike, and the cumulative effects
of a slightly upsloping top tube, the extended head tube, the longer
steer tube, and the wonderful longer-quilled Nitto stems make a huge
difference. An RB-1 56 has a level top tube, short-stack headset, and
short-quilled stems resulted in a 56 with the bar height of a 56.
A 56 Rambouillet allows a bar  height equivalent to an RB-1 65cm---and
yet, it don't look wacky. It just feels way better (for most people).
It may be "non-classic," by virtue (and I mean virtue) of the
aforementioned quirks, but it is better for each of them individually,
and bounds better by the cumulation of them.

Pino Moronni was my long-chainstay influence. In fractured English, he
can make a good case for it. The idea that shorter is faster--more
pish-posh!

Also: Bstone top tubes/down tubes were 25.4mm/28.6mm. RIVS are
generally 28.6/31.8, with the occasional custom that has a downtube
that's 28.6 at the top and 31.8 at the bottom.

G





On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute  wrote:
> Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to
> hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general
> rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this
> talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the
> hunt. Thanks.
>
> Ryanhttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

The Burley hitch mounts to the q/r skewer.

On Jan 27, 11:07 am, avillage  wrote:
> I appreciate what I've seen so far. Thanks. What experience do you
> have with the hitches? I mean, does one put more pressure on the bike
> or a chainstay than another?
>
> This forum is great, super helpful.
>
> On Jan 27, 10:23 am, Ray Shine  wrote:
>
> > I own a BOB Yak trailer (Single track). I like it it, but I agree with some 
> > of the other posters that a two wheel trailer is more sensible in the city 
> > for errands.  Conversely, I recommend a single-track trailer for touring 
> > because so many US roads have rumble stripping cut into the road shoulder.  
> > That makes it difficult with a two -wheel trailer because one trailer wheel 
> > must often track in the rumble strip.  Withe a single-track trailer, that 
> > isn't a concern.
>
> > I like the low center of gravity of a trailer, and you'll never know it's 
> > back there  most of the time.  Don't over-load it, though, just because you 
> > can!
>
> > I'm x-country touring this summer on my Atlantis, but with panniers instead 
> > of the BOB. I decided that I'll leave the trailer at home so that I can 
> > take my turn drafting with my two companions.  We'll hit a lot of 
> > headwind.  If I were going solo, I'd use the trailer, though, as it is much 
> > less susceptible to cross winds.  I like both modes for different reasons.
>
> > Ray
>
> > --- On Tue, 1/27/09, Bill Connell  wrote:
> > From: Bill Connell 
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: Trailers
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 6:51 AM
>
> > On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 4:38 PM, avillage  wrote:
>
> > > Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
> > > September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
> > > looking forward to a great ride.
>
> > > One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
> > > ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
> > > on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
> > > everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
> > > name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
> > > Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
> > > Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
> > > opinion.
>
> > I like the Burley flatbed cargo trailer for typical grocery runs. The
> > plusses are that it's a 2-wheel trailer so you don't have to worry
> > about it tipping over, and the loading is flexible; you can carry
> > large things on it, or get a big plastic tub and have enclosed,
> > weather-proof space for cargo. I had one and used a large Rubbermaid
> > tub that would easily fit 3-4 grocery bags standing on the bottom with
> > room on top for more under the lid. It's stable and easy to pull, and
> > they're very well made.
>
> > If you want more capacity, the Bikes At Work trailers are hard to
> > beat. I'm going the opposite way - now that my kids are getting too
> > large for the Burley kid trailer, i'm saving for a Big Dummy for cargo
> > and short-run kid trips. I built myself a trailer for larger hauls,
> > but it's not a kid hauler.
>
> > --
> > Bill Connell
> > St. Paul, MN
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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[avillage]

I appreciate what I've seen so far. Thanks. What experience do you
have with the hitches? I mean, does one put more pressure on the bike
or a chainstay than another?

This forum is great, super helpful.

On Jan 27, 10:23 am, Ray Shine  wrote:
> I own a BOB Yak trailer (Single track). I like it it, but I agree with some 
> of the other posters that a two wheel trailer is more sensible in the city 
> for errands.  Conversely, I recommend a single-track trailer for touring 
> because so many US roads have rumble stripping cut into the road shoulder.  
> That makes it difficult with a two -wheel trailer because one trailer wheel 
> must often track in the rumble strip.  Withe a single-track trailer, that 
> isn't a concern.
>
> I like the low center of gravity of a trailer, and you'll never know it's 
> back there  most of the time.  Don't over-load it, though, just because you 
> can!
>
> I'm x-country touring this summer on my Atlantis, but with panniers instead 
> of the BOB. I decided that I'll leave the trailer at home so that I can take 
> my turn drafting with my two companions.  We'll hit a lot of headwind.  If I 
> were going solo, I'd use the trailer, though, as it is much less susceptible 
> to cross winds.  I like both modes for different reasons.
>
> Ray
>
> --- On Tue, 1/27/09, Bill Connell  wrote:
> From: Bill Connell 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Trailers
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 6:51 AM
>
> On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 4:38 PM, avillage  wrote:
>
> > Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
> > September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
> > looking forward to a great ride.
>
> > One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
> > ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
> > on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
> > everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
> > name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
> > Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
> > Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
> > opinion.
>
> I like the Burley flatbed cargo trailer for typical grocery runs. The
> plusses are that it's a 2-wheel trailer so you don't have to worry
> about it tipping over, and the loading is flexible; you can carry
> large things on it, or get a big plastic tub and have enclosed,
> weather-proof space for cargo. I had one and used a large Rubbermaid
> tub that would easily fit 3-4 grocery bags standing on the bottom with
> room on top for more under the lid. It's stable and easy to pull, and
> they're very well made.
>
> If you want more capacity, the Bikes At Work trailers are hard to
> beat. I'm going the opposite way - now that my kids are getting too
> large for the Burley kid trailer, i'm saving for a Big Dummy for cargo
> and short-run kid trips. I built myself a trailer for larger hauls,
> but it's not a kid hauler.
>
> --
> Bill Connell
> St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[Shaun Meehan]

Pretty eclectic set-up. I like it. If that Quadra is doing the job for you
and you're not wishing for smoother, better damped, more adjustable
(etc.) suspension travel, you might just want to consider keeping it. It
looks decent and (from my experience) when you get into the higher end forks
with oil cartridges, air springs, etc., you're talking about considerably
more maintenance. I had a Quadra years ago and you never have to do a thing
to it other than clean the seals and lube the stanchions once in a great
while.

Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[clayton]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/3231768692/
Here is the link.

Clayton

On Jan 27, 7:28 am, Ray Shine  wrote:
> Now, THAT'S an interesting set up!  Any more pix, closer in, of the fork and 
> cockpit?
>
> Ray
>
> --- On Tue, 1/27/09, clayton  wrote:
> From: clayton 
> Subject: [RBW] Atlantis with Quadra...
> To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
> Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 7:22 AM
>
> Ops. Might help if I give the link...
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/3231709372/#comment7215761300...
>
> Clayton
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[RBW] Ooops...sorry, link for photo

[clayton]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/3231768692/

My suspended Atlantis cockpit...with link this time...

Clayton
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[RBW] Atlantis cockpit

[clayton]

Here is a picture of my preferred cockpit setup, with my handmade
computer and light mounts...

Clayotn
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Shaun Meehan]

No leads on a 1" suspension fork. But I defintely would like to recommend
that you post a picture or two of your suspended 'lantis. That's something
I've never seen before.

Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: atlantis traveler

[Shaun Meehan]

Every time I've seen Jim's Atlantis it has morphed into an entirely
different bike than the previous time I saw it. This set-up looks very cool!
The way I ride my Atlantis, I think a 1 X 8 or 1 X 9 would probably work
pretty well for me. I like this iteration a lot! I'm a big fan of the wide
Noodles too.

Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[Steve Palincsar]

On Tue, 2009-01-27 at 07:30 -0800, David Faller wrote:
> I'm preaching to the choir here, but the biggest resistance to raising
> the stem on road bikes comes from the aesthetic of the "racing bike
> look".  Almost no one (please note that I said "almost no one") could
> rationally claim that having bars significantly lower than the saddle
> is more comfortable; yet the image of the racing bike is so ingrained
> in the bike culture that variants are considered freakish and wrong,
> regardless of comfort or proper fit.  I had a beautiful Eisentraut in
> the 70's and early 80's, and it never felt right so I sold it.
> Looking back, I had the stem so far down that my back and neck always
> hurt.  It sure looked good, and at the time I would have rather
> suffered than look non-racy by raising the stem.
>  


I'm not sure that I agree.  I think rather the biggest resistance is
that on many bikes you just can't get the bars that high: threadless
where the fork steerer has been cut short, non-long quill Nitto threaded
stems, etc. all dramatically limit the height to which you can raise the
bars.  Rivendell employs several tricks including upsloping top tubes
and head tube extensions to make that high bar possible.

Also, as we've seen several times on the iBOB list, there are plenty of
riders out there who find a high bar physically very uncomfortable.
They're not propagandized racer-wannabees, either.  




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[RBW] racing bikes?

[Sarah Gibson]

have to look like racing bikes?
ah yes
this set up
inspired great gasps
from some other listserve
"how dare she."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/acmebicycle/sets/72157607122820128/
peace



well behaved women rarely make history
_ride yr friggin bicycle_
 




From: dfal...@charter.net
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 07:30:03 -0800










I'm preaching to the choir here, but the biggest 
resistance to raising the stem on road bikes comes from the aesthetic of the 
"racing bike look".  Almost no one (please note that I said 
"almost no one") could rationally claim that having bars 
significantly lower than the saddle is more comfortable; yet the image of the 
racing bike is so ingrained in the bike culture that variants are considered 
freakish and wrong, regardless of comfort or proper fit.  I had a beautiful 
Eisentraut in the 70's and early 80's, and it never felt right so I sold 
it.  Looking back, I had the stem so far down that my back and neck always 
hurt.  It sure looked good, and at the time I would have rather 
suffered than look non-racy by raising the stem.
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  gr...@rivbike.com 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 10:06 
  PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. 
  Bridgestone sizing
  

 Basic geo diffs btw RIV roadish bikes & 
  RB-1

The RBs have shorter chainstays and less BB drop, for higher 
  bottom
brackets, and less tire clearance. There were many forces a-pulling 
  at
the time:

Sales reps and dlrs would tolerate no chainstay longer 
  than 41.5.
The brakes available were short-reach, which, even if 
  reps-n-dealers
would have tolerated bigger tires (and if I were as hip to 
  them then
as I am now---I don't want to point fingers only away---well, 
  the
short reach brakes forced skinny tires. Still, those Bstones had 
  more
clearance than their contemporaries, and judged by their time 
  they
looked pretty smart.
I've learned a lot since then, and my values 
  have shifted some, and
from RIV onward I didn't have to satisfy anybody 
  else---so immediately
I went to longer chainstays and more bb drop (lower 
  bbs). I used to
believe that longer femurs dictated shallower seat tube 
  angles &
shorter 'murs need steeper ones, but I realized that was 
  pish-posh,
and so those incrementally shallower-as-they-got-bigger seat 
  tube
angles I was so fantastically proud of back then...well, 
  good
intentions, but all for naught. I think it was Tony Oliver's book 
  that
set me straight on that, and it's so obvious once you understand 
  it.

My "high bars" phase came from a guy named Bob Gordon talking my 
  head
off about it, and it led to a RR article called Raise Dat Stem. 
  All
you have to do is try it...and yep, there may be some who prefer 
  low
bars, but I tend to think they're anatomically different in 
  invisible
ways, or in denial, or too stubborn. Something. Part of raising 
  the
bar is raising the front end of the bike, and the cumulative 
  effects
of a slightly upsloping top tube, the extended head tube, the 
  longer
steer tube, and the wonderful longer-quilled Nitto stems make a 
  huge
difference. An RB-1 56 has a level top tube, short-stack headset, 
  and
short-quilled stems resulted in a 56 with the bar height of a 56.
A 
  56 Rambouillet allows a bar  height equivalent to an RB-1 
  65cm---and
yet, it don't look wacky. It just feels way better (for most 
  people).
It may be "non-classic," by virtue (and I mean virtue) of 
  the
aforementioned quirks, but it is better for each of them 
  individually,
and bounds better by the cumulation of them.

Pino 
  Moronni was my long-chainstay influence. In fractured English, he
can make 
  a good case for it. The idea that shorter is 
  faster--more
pish-posh!

Also: Bstone top tubes/down tubes were 
  25.4mm/28.6mm. RIVS are
generally 28.6/31.8, with the occasional custom 
  that has a downtube
that's 28.6 at the top and 31.8 at the 
  bottom.

G





On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute  wrote:
> 
  Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to
> 
  hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general
> 
  rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this
> 
  talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the
> 
  hunt. Thanks.
>
> 
  Ryanhttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[David Faller]

I'm preaching to the choir here, but the biggest resistance to raising the stem 
on road bikes comes from the aesthetic of the "racing bike look".  Almost no 
one (please note that I said "almost no one") could rationally claim that 
having bars significantly lower than the saddle is more comfortable; yet the 
image of the racing bike is so ingrained in the bike culture that variants are 
considered freakish and wrong, regardless of comfort or proper fit.  I had a 
beautiful Eisentraut in the 70's and early 80's, and it never felt right so I 
sold it.  Looking back, I had the stem so far down that my back and neck always 
hurt.  It sure looked good, and at the time I would have rather suffered than 
look non-racy by raising the stem.

  - Original Message - 
  From: gr...@rivbike.com 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 10:06 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing



   Basic geo diffs btw RIV roadish bikes & RB-1

  The RBs have shorter chainstays and less BB drop, for higher bottom
  brackets, and less tire clearance. There were many forces a-pulling at
  the time:

  Sales reps and dlrs would tolerate no chainstay longer than 41.5.
  The brakes available were short-reach, which, even if reps-n-dealers
  would have tolerated bigger tires (and if I were as hip to them then
  as I am now---I don't want to point fingers only away---well, the
  short reach brakes forced skinny tires. Still, those Bstones had more
  clearance than their contemporaries, and judged by their time they
  looked pretty smart.
  I've learned a lot since then, and my values have shifted some, and
  from RIV onward I didn't have to satisfy anybody else---so immediately
  I went to longer chainstays and more bb drop (lower bbs). I used to
  believe that longer femurs dictated shallower seat tube angles &
  shorter 'murs need steeper ones, but I realized that was pish-posh,
  and so those incrementally shallower-as-they-got-bigger seat tube
  angles I was so fantastically proud of back then...well, good
  intentions, but all for naught. I think it was Tony Oliver's book that
  set me straight on that, and it's so obvious once you understand it.

  My "high bars" phase came from a guy named Bob Gordon talking my head
  off about it, and it led to a RR article called Raise Dat Stem. All
  you have to do is try it...and yep, there may be some who prefer low
  bars, but I tend to think they're anatomically different in invisible
  ways, or in denial, or too stubborn. Something. Part of raising the
  bar is raising the front end of the bike, and the cumulative effects
  of a slightly upsloping top tube, the extended head tube, the longer
  steer tube, and the wonderful longer-quilled Nitto stems make a huge
  difference. An RB-1 56 has a level top tube, short-stack headset, and
  short-quilled stems resulted in a 56 with the bar height of a 56.
  A 56 Rambouillet allows a bar  height equivalent to an RB-1 65cm---and
  yet, it don't look wacky. It just feels way better (for most people).
  It may be "non-classic," by virtue (and I mean virtue) of the
  aforementioned quirks, but it is better for each of them individually,
  and bounds better by the cumulation of them.

  Pino Moronni was my long-chainstay influence. In fractured English, he
  can make a good case for it. The idea that shorter is faster--more
  pish-posh!

  Also: Bstone top tubes/down tubes were 25.4mm/28.6mm. RIVS are
  generally 28.6/31.8, with the occasional custom that has a downtube
  that's 28.6 at the top and 31.8 at the bottom.

  G





  On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute  wrote:
  > Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to
  > hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general
  > rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this
  > talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the
  > hunt. Thanks.
  >
  > Ryan
  
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[Ray Shine]

Now, THAT'S an interesting set up!  Any more pix, closer in, of the fork and 
cockpit?

Ray

--- On Tue, 1/27/09, clayton  wrote:
From: clayton 
Subject: [RBW] Atlantis with Quadra...
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 7:22 AM

Ops. Might help if I give the link...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/3231709372/#comment72157613008039237

Clayton



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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Ray Shine]

I own a BOB Yak trailer (Single track). I like it it, but I agree with some of 
the other posters that a two wheel trailer is more sensible in the city for 
errands.  Conversely, I recommend a single-track trailer for touring because so 
many US roads have rumble stripping cut into the road shoulder.  That makes it 
difficult with a two -wheel trailer because one trailer wheel must often track 
in the rumble strip.  Withe a single-track trailer, that isn't a concern.

I like the low center of gravity of a trailer, and you'll never know it's back 
there  most of the time.  Don't over-load it, though, just because you can! 

I'm x-country touring this summer on my Atlantis, but with panniers instead of 
the BOB. I decided that I'll leave the trailer at home so that I can take my 
turn drafting with my two companions.  We'll hit a lot of headwind.  If I were 
going solo, I'd use the trailer, though, as it is much less susceptible to 
cross winds.  I like both modes for different reasons.

Ray

--- On Tue, 1/27/09, Bill Connell  wrote:
From: Bill Connell 
Subject: [RBW] Re: Trailers
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 27, 2009, 6:51 AM

On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 4:38 PM, avillage  wrote:
>
> Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
> September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
> looking forward to a great ride.
>
> One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
> ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
> on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
> everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
> name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
> Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
> Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
> opinion.

I like the Burley flatbed cargo trailer for typical grocery runs. The
plusses are that it's a 2-wheel trailer so you don't have to worry
about it tipping over, and the loading is flexible; you can carry
large things on it, or get a big plastic tub and have enclosed,
weather-proof space for cargo. I had one and used a large Rubbermaid
tub that would easily fit 3-4 grocery bags standing on the bottom with
room on top for more under the lid. It's stable and easy to pull, and
they're very well made.

If you want more capacity, the Bikes At Work trailers are hard to
beat. I'm going the opposite way - now that my kids are getting too
large for the Burley kid trailer, i'm saving for a Big Dummy for cargo
and short-run kid trips. I built myself a trailer for larger hauls,
but it's not a kid hauler.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN



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[RBW] Atlantis with Quadra...

[clayton]

Ops. Might help if I give the link...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/3231709372/#comment72157613008039237

Clayton

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[RBW] Atlantis with a suspension fork

[clayton]

I haven't seen any Rivendells with a suspension fork, so I thought I
would share. I found a brand new Rock Shox Quadra on Ebay with a 1"
steerer that was unthreaded. After threading it and carefully filing
the indexing groove I have a fork that gets almost two inches of
travel. I have had multiple carpal tunnel surgeries that did nothing
to reduce the numbness and pain in my hands when I rode. I tried 2.35
wide tires with 20 psi, etc. The fork works. No more numbness when I
ride. I want a higher quality fork but the only one I have found is
from White Brothers for somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 dollars.
Anyone have a quality suspension fork with a 1" steerer" or any
suggestions? Recommendations?

Thanks!
Clayton
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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[Bill Connell]

On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 4:38 PM, avillage  wrote:
>
> Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
> September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
> looking forward to a great ride.
>
> One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
> ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
> on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
> everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
> name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
> Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
> Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
> opinion.

I like the Burley flatbed cargo trailer for typical grocery runs. The
plusses are that it's a 2-wheel trailer so you don't have to worry
about it tipping over, and the loading is flexible; you can carry
large things on it, or get a big plastic tub and have enclosed,
weather-proof space for cargo. I had one and used a large Rubbermaid
tub that would easily fit 3-4 grocery bags standing on the bottom with
room on top for more under the lid. It's stable and easy to pull, and
they're very well made.

If you want more capacity, the Bikes At Work trailers are hard to
beat. I'm going the opposite way - now that my kids are getting too
large for the Burley kid trailer, i'm saving for a Big Dummy for cargo
and short-run kid trips. I built myself a trailer for larger hauls,
but it's not a kid hauler.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: atlantis traveler

[d2mini]

Thank you.
It's being treated very nicely by another local Riv lover who couldn't
afford to buy a new one.
I moved from the 58cm 700c Atlantis to a 56cm 650b Homer.


On Jan 26, 10:07 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> What happened to it?  I've always thought it was quite stunning!  Black (or
> "pewter") with cream is about my favorite color scheme...
>
> DE
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 8:02 PM, d2mini  wrote:
>
> > Ah, that nice looking!
> > Reminds me of my old Atlantis.
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelemonphoto/2614242426/
>
> > On Jan 26, 4:42 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> > wrote:
> > > Thought some of you may be interested in seeing photos of my Atlantis,
> > > which has a somewhat atypical configuration. This is the bike I'll be
> > > bringing for the SoCal RBW Owners ride in March:
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/tags/travelbike/
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: silence of my hub/freewheel

[Eric]

I've been advised in the past to be careful if your freewheel or  
freehub isn't clicking. The clicking sound means that that spring- 
loaded pawls are engaging with teeth inside the mechanism. It's the  
pawls engaging with the inner teeth that makes the bike go when you  
pedal forward.

Back when we would inject grease into our freewheels (there was a  
special grease fitting you could buy), we were told to ride carefully  
during the blissfully quiet period with fresh grease to avoid  
stripping the pawls.


--Eric Norris
Sent from my iPhone 3G

On Jan 26, 2009, at 3:36 PM, k5osx  wrote:

>
>
> I have a phil 'riv' hub with an IRD freewheel. One thing that I've
> noticed when out
> riding is that when I'm coasting, there is no click-click-click sound.
> Is this a
> function of the hub, or the freewheel? And does it indicate a well
> lubricated
> hub or freewheel, or will this be a life-long characteristic?
>
> It is nice to be able to ride silently, but no longer can I pedal
> backwards to
> announce my presence to pedestrians.
>
> thanks,
> robert
>
>
> >


--Eric Norris
Sent from my iPhone 3G

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[RBW] Re: Trailers

[J. Burkhalter]

Great question.  Ever since trading away my Xtracycle years ago, I've
been a dreamin' about a trailer to pull behind the Atlantis.  In
addition to the Bikes-At-Work trailers, these two US companies really
stood out to me in my digital research.  May be worth considering...
http://equinoxtrailers.com/
http://www.cycletote.com/index.html

-Jay B.



On Jan 26, 5:38 pm, avillage  wrote:
> Hi, all. My first post here. I became a newbie Riv owner last year in
> September with my Bleriot. I'm still getting the fit down and I am
> looking forward to a great ride.
>
> One reason I went to a Rivendell is that I, for the past few years,
> ride more and more and I wanted more comfort. Heck, my shoulders hurt
> on my beloved Serotta. I wanted a bike that I could ride
> everywhere...commute, grocery store, community market, hardware, you
> name it. So, I'm thinking trailer. Looked at BOB's, Burley,
> Extrawheel. I really like the Extrawheel and am not sure it can carry.
> Anyway, I'd like to know if anyone out there has a bike trailer
> opinion.
>
> Thanks.
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[RBW] Re: silence of my hub/freewheel

[Bruce]

It's the FW. When I changed mine (a Rich built Phil hub wheel) from a cheap 
Gnashbar to a Dura Ace, it was like going from clack clack to a sewing 
machine's smooth clicking.  The RBW brass bell works wonderfully for announcing 
yourself to pedestrians. It also stymies most dogs.





From: k5osx 


I have a phil 'riv' hub with an IRD freewheel. One thing that I've
noticed when out
riding is that when I'm coasting, there is no click-click-click sound.
Is this a
function of the hub, or the freewheel? And does it indicate a well
lubricated
hub or freewheel, or will this be a life-long characteristic?

It is nice to be able to ride silently, but no longer can I pedal
backwards to
announce my presence to pedestrians.

thanks,
robert


  
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[RBW] Re: silence of my hub/freewheel

[Paul Cooley]

I've had quiet freewheels in the past.  I always thought they were on  
the verge of failure, but there was never a problem with them.  As for  
pedestrians, use a bell.

Paul B. Cooley
Santa Fe, NM
http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com

On Jan 26, 2009, at 4:36 PM, k5osx wrote:



I have a phil 'riv' hub with an IRD freewheel. One thing that I've
noticed when out
riding is that when I'm coasting, there is no click-click-click sound.
Is this a
function of the hub, or the freewheel? And does it indicate a well
lubricated
hub or freewheel, or will this be a life-long characteristic?

It is nice to be able to ride silently, but no longer can I pedal
backwards to
announce my presence to pedestrians.

thanks,
robert




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