[RBW] Re: Freewheel Skipping
Thanks to all for the thoughtful replies. I believe it was the pawls inside the freewheel that skipped. There is no gunk build up or visible wear on the cogs, no measureable wear on the chain. I'll give the soaking the FW in solvent technique a go. Thanks! Angus On Feb 1, 12:41 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/1/10 2:51 AM, Angus at angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I was riding my Atlantis yesterday and during one hard effort (it's all relative) the freewheel skippedchunk! It's an old Suntour 7 speed freewheel that has probably given reliable service for decades. I had this happen to another Suntour freewheel several years ago and when it became too regular I replaced it. Which lead to the question... With a skipping freewheel, how long do you let it go before replacing the freewheel? Just to confirm, you are saying that the pawls are slipping internally, not that the chain is slipping on a given cog, right? It depends a bit how the thing is slipping. If there's a crunchy noise and the pedals jump just a bit, I'm likely to let it go for a while. The more pedal jump, the more dangerous, IMO. The freewheel is either going to freeze up or let go entirely. The former just means a little fixed gear work on the way home (though doing that with the slack chain in a derailleur setup can be tricky). The latter usually means body onto frame in one manner or the other. I guess the short answer is sooner rather than later... hope that helps, - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
One of the non-Riv bikes we sell comes standard with clips and straps (we should really take them off). Last Summer a guy came in to test one, so I aired up the tires, offered a helmet (declined), and away he went. When he returned, both he and the bike were scraped up. Apparently, the TC got caught in the fender, and he went down. I really can't imagine what maneuver he was trying to execute (track stand?), and on the 50 or so times I've ridden one of those bikes, I never noticed a TCO issue or experienced anything remotely resembling a TCO difficulty. On Feb 2, 1:36 am, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote: Seems to be a problem because it has a name/acronym. All it means is that at speeds less than about 6mph, if you turn the wheel enough and time it just wrong with your pedal stroke, your shoe hits the fender or tire. It's one of those things that sounds worse than it is. It cannot happen at faster speeds, because you don't turn the wheel that much except if you're doing a near or full U-turn. When you go around a hairpin at 17 mph, you turn the front wheel maybe 1.5-degees. It is ONLY at SUPER slow speeds and super sharp turns that you can make contact. I want to say this, because it even being a topic of discussion suggests that there's something wrong. At the risk of being gross or something, it's sort of like, I have mucus coming out of my face--what can I do? What's wrong with me? And the answer is blow your nose. But TCO (a term I've used a hundred times, by the way) is mucus coming out of face in a different context. In a bike like the Atlantis, or any fatty tire bike, the designer, at some point, comes to a fork in the road. He can design for NO TCO and compromise the elements of design that affect position and fit and ride; or he can design for P, F, and R and accept some TCO. Or, just go to a smaller wheel. But even that involves some value judgements. A 58cm Atlantis with a 26--inch wheel would have a monster-long head tube that would look funny and make the bike less suitable to load carrying than the 700C wheel version (with a longer fork and hence shorter head tube). As it is, the 58 is a really well triangulated frame, and the bike rides like a demon (my opinion, but I am biased). TCO ends up being a problem---in my opinion---only in theoretics, but not in practice. THere are some builders who would disagree; and although in the spirit of diplomacy and reasonableness and agreeing to disagree and all that, I accept thatI can't understand it. To fear TCO or to regard it as Dangerouswell, it's ust something that to me doesn't make any sense. I'm not saying anybody here fears it. I haven't read all the posts and prolly won't...I just clicked on this thread for the heck of it, read something, and now.ahhhshouldn't have said anything! Will regret it in the morning. Going to bed. Goodnight, Moon. Best, G -- Grant Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com925 933 7304 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Couple outdoor QB pics
I got out for a bit saturday--only ten or so miles twiddling around on our local MUP and over to my favorite bike shop to show it off. It was 18 degrees so ten miles seemed sufficient! Changed a couple of things--put a Dos Eno freewheel on for two speeds that don't require as much wheel movement which in turn allowed me to clean up the rear fender line a bit. (utilizing SKS quickreleases to allow wheel removal.) And I switched to a more conventional double crank (Sugino XD) and lost the chain guard but gained a bit bigger inner ring, which was a big help. Now I can cruise comfortably around 11-14mph whereas with the stock setup I was spinning out around 11mph which is just too low a gear for my local terrain... The bike is sooo comforatble--I really love it! And it's every bit as purty as my Orange Rambouillet in a bit more understated way... Fresh, snowy pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4316446711/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4317180490/ Next change I'm considering is adding interrupter levers for braking versatility... Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Franklin Canyon Ride
We could work out one a similar ride, but shift it north a bit, the further you are away from the city the less cars you see for sure. That being said I have only been on the roads closer to the 23, with lots of riding in sycamaore canyon - http://venturacountytrails.org/TrailMaps/Sycamore/AreaTrails.htm This is about 30 minutes closer ro LA than coming all the way out to Ventura where I have been proposing another ride on the flickr group Rob On Feb 1, 5:51 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote: We did a ride like similar to this on a previous SoCal ride, but we cut through Topanga (or was it Temescal?) in order to avoid so much distance on PCH, which can be hairy with all the Mel Gibson-style daytime drunks. It would be great if we could figure out a way to tack on that kind of distance, but do so in a way that keeps PCH exposure to a minimum. Anyone have any ideas? On Feb 1, 2:48 pm, Brad Gantt brdg...@gmail.com wrote: Okay, here's one option for an epic day in the hills. I have ridden all of this many times before but never all in one go. I'm going to try this in a couple of weeks, weather permitting. http://www.mapmyride.com/route/us/ca/los%20angeles/858126505202170833- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
When pictures of my Hilsen first showed up on Cyclofiend, someone e- mailed me a brief - 'Wow. How's that TCO doing ya?' Or something generally in that line. Presumably the author meant to make me feel bad for having bought the bike. Two problems with the effort. First, with its 32 tires and SKS fenders a 59 Hilsen does not have TCO. Second, even if it did, as Grant points out, so what. Obviously designers do not build a bike intending to have TCO. But there are many other design elements more important than avoiding the occasional toe clip fender knock. On Feb 2, 1:36 am, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote: Seems to be a problem because it has a name/acronym. All it means is that at speeds less than about 6mph, if you turn the wheel enough and time it just wrong with your pedal stroke, your shoe hits the fender or tire. It's one of those things that sounds worse than it is. It cannot happen at faster speeds, because you don't turn the wheel that much except if you're doing a near or full U-turn. When you go around a hairpin at 17 mph, you turn the front wheel maybe 1.5-degees. It is ONLY at SUPER slow speeds and super sharp turns that you can make contact. I want to say this, because it even being a topic of discussion suggests that there's something wrong. At the risk of being gross or something, it's sort of like, I have mucus coming out of my face--what can I do? What's wrong with me? And the answer is blow your nose. But TCO (a term I've used a hundred times, by the way) is mucus coming out of face in a different context. In a bike like the Atlantis, or any fatty tire bike, the designer, at some point, comes to a fork in the road. He can design for NO TCO and compromise the elements of design that affect position and fit and ride; or he can design for P, F, and R and accept some TCO. Or, just go to a smaller wheel. But even that involves some value judgements. A 58cm Atlantis with a 26--inch wheel would have a monster-long head tube that would look funny and make the bike less suitable to load carrying than the 700C wheel version (with a longer fork and hence shorter head tube). As it is, the 58 is a really well triangulated frame, and the bike rides like a demon (my opinion, but I am biased). TCO ends up being a problem---in my opinion---only in theoretics, but not in practice. THere are some builders who would disagree; and although in the spirit of diplomacy and reasonableness and agreeing to disagree and all that, I accept thatI can't understand it. To fear TCO or to regard it as Dangerouswell, it's ust something that to me doesn't make any sense. I'm not saying anybody here fears it. I haven't read all the posts and prolly won't...I just clicked on this thread for the heck of it, read something, and now.ahhhshouldn't have said anything! Will regret it in the morning. Going to bed. Goodnight, Moon. Best, G -- Grant Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com 925 933 7304 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Some of the people I know who ride ultra-short-wheelbase fixed-gear bikes w/clips have what seems like whole foot overlap, but they manage in boston traffic nonetheless. I know from experience that riding in this traffic must involve some serious weaving and sharp cuts of the wheel left/right. But these folks do it anyway and they're still alive, so it must be something you can learn to cope with pretty easily. On Feb 2, 6:58 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: One of the non-Riv bikes we sell comes standard with clips and straps (we should really take them off). Last Summer a guy came in to test one, so I aired up the tires, offered a helmet (declined), and away he went. When he returned, both he and the bike were scraped up. Apparently, the TC got caught in the fender, and he went down. I really can't imagine what maneuver he was trying to execute (track stand?), and on the 50 or so times I've ridden one of those bikes, I never noticed a TCO issue or experienced anything remotely resembling a TCO difficulty. On Feb 2, 1:36 am, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote: Seems to be a problem because it has a name/acronym. All it means is that at speeds less than about 6mph, if you turn the wheel enough and time it just wrong with your pedal stroke, your shoe hits the fender or tire. It's one of those things that sounds worse than it is. It cannot happen at faster speeds, because you don't turn the wheel that much except if you're doing a near or full U-turn. When you go around a hairpin at 17 mph, you turn the front wheel maybe 1.5-degees. It is ONLY at SUPER slow speeds and super sharp turns that you can make contact. I want to say this, because it even being a topic of discussion suggests that there's something wrong. At the risk of being gross or something, it's sort of like, I have mucus coming out of my face--what can I do? What's wrong with me? And the answer is blow your nose. But TCO (a term I've used a hundred times, by the way) is mucus coming out of face in a different context. In a bike like the Atlantis, or any fatty tire bike, the designer, at some point, comes to a fork in the road. He can design for NO TCO and compromise the elements of design that affect position and fit and ride; or he can design for P, F, and R and accept some TCO. Or, just go to a smaller wheel. But even that involves some value judgements. A 58cm Atlantis with a 26--inch wheel would have a monster-long head tube that would look funny and make the bike less suitable to load carrying than the 700C wheel version (with a longer fork and hence shorter head tube). As it is, the 58 is a really well triangulated frame, and the bike rides like a demon (my opinion, but I am biased). TCO ends up being a problem---in my opinion---only in theoretics, but not in practice. THere are some builders who would disagree; and although in the spirit of diplomacy and reasonableness and agreeing to disagree and all that, I accept thatI can't understand it. To fear TCO or to regard it as Dangerouswell, it's ust something that to me doesn't make any sense. I'm not saying anybody here fears it. I haven't read all the posts and prolly won't...I just clicked on this thread for the heck of it, read something, and now.ahhhshouldn't have said anything! Will regret it in the morning. Going to bed. Goodnight, Moon. Best, G -- Grant Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com925933 7304 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
RE: [RBW] 9speed to 8 speed cassettes
I use 7 cogs from an 8 speed SRAM cassette and the spacers from a worn out 7 speed Shimano cassette on my Bridgestone and it works just fine! Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of cyclotourist Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 4:00 PM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] 9speed to 8 speed cassettes A combination of pushing my bike up hill yesterday and the new 12-36 cassette in the latest Reader has me thinking... Can I put 8 speed spacers between the cogs of a nine speed cassette and simply leave off the smallest cog? My current 8 speed cassette is a 12-32 XTR (on a spider), and I'd love to get a 34 or even 36 low. I would never need an 11T high, and very rarely use a 12T. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cleaning a Winter Drivetrain
As others have said it depends on the conditions. I personally won't ride my Riv in New England until the spring rains have washed away most of the salt as that stuff will simply eat a steel frame, and corrode the hell out of everything else. I have a beater mountain bike that I used to commute on during the winter. But right now I have a mixed mode commute and use a Bike Friday folder so I can take it on public transit as needed. In terms of lube, something that'll stay on your drivetrain. How often? As often as possible. You really want to get the grit and more importantly the salt off the bike ASAP. I have a friend who would truck his bike into his shower and just rinse it down every time he got home (he was riding @15 miles each way year round at the time so there was a LOT of muck on the bike). Enjoy! Ethan On Jan 30, 8:44 pm, Mark Hall onmybikem...@gmail.com wrote: Got me 63 AHH all fendered up and out on the wet and dirty roads now. First time I have ever really done much winter riding. Need some recommendations about how often and best method to keep the bike - drivetrain, derailleurs, etc - clean. Been thoroughly enjoying riding in the wet and with dark clouds above. mark -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] TCO in general..
I think that for people who think TCO is an issue -- it is, and I don't try to change their minds. But I think if someone is wondering whether it's going to be an issue for them... it probably isn't. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] TCO in general..
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote: I think that for people who think TCO is an issue -- it is, and I don't try to change their minds. But I think if someone is wondering whether it's going to be an issue for them... it probably isn't. TCO was an issue, once, for me on one bike. Then I decided if I was in a place where it could happen I had to be going so slowly that I'd just stop and put a foot down. It's not like I have clips or clipless pedals anyway so putting a foot down isn't any extra work. :) -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cleaning a Winter Drivetrain
If you live in a northern city that uses salt it can be a chore. A couple years ago someone - I believe on this list - suggested going to a self car wash and rinse the drive train down using the low pressure pre-wash cycle only. I use this to get the encrusted stuff off, then take the bike home and finish the job with my regular cleaner and park brush. If you go this route be very careful not to use the high pressure function on the wash wand. Also be prepared for snide remarks from car owners who frequently seem to think bike cleaners' money is not as good as theirs. On Jan 30, 7:44 pm, Mark Hall onmybikem...@gmail.com wrote: Got me 63 AHH all fendered up and out on the wet and dirty roads now. First time I have ever really done much winter riding. Need some recommendations about how often and best method to keep the bike - drivetrain, derailleurs, etc - clean. Been thoroughly enjoying riding in the wet and with dark clouds above. mark -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] 9speed to 8 speed cassettes
I think the project is greenlighted! On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 6:19 AM, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.eduwrote: I use 7 cogs from an 8 speed SRAM cassette and the spacers from a worn out 7 speed Shimano cassette on my Bridgestone and it works just fine! Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI -Original Message- *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto: rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]*on Behalf Of *cyclotourist *Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2010 4:00 PM *To:* RBW Owners Bunch *Subject:* [RBW] 9speed to 8 speed cassettes A combination of pushing my bike up hill yesterday and the new 12-36 cassette in the latest Reader has me thinking... Can I put 8 speed spacers between the cogs of a nine speed cassette and simply leave off the smallest cog? My current 8 speed cassette is a 12-32 XTR (on a spider), and I'd love to get a 34 or even 36 low. I would never need an 11T high, and very rarely use a 12T. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] TCO in general..
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 7:14 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote: I think that for people who think TCO is an issue -- it is, and I don't try to change their minds. But I think if someone is wondering whether it's going to be an issue for them... it probably isn't. TCO was an issue, once, for me on one bike. Then I decided if I was in a place where it could happen I had to be going so slowly that I'd just stop and put a foot down. It's not like I have clips or clipless pedals anyway so putting a foot down isn't any extra work. :) -sv -- Grant et al I was the OP for this conversation, and was wondering about TCO for a specific reason: off-road riding an Atlantis with SPD pedals. When I'm clicked in, TCO is bad cuz' I'm not the fastest un-clicker-outer. That's mainly only a problem on singletrack. My AR doesn't have it, but it only fits 42-44mm tires. I'm looking at bikes that fit full 29ers, of which the Atlantis is one. No disparaging remarks about Atlantis were made or intended at all. That's a GREAT bike, no matter how much mucus is all over it! I'm trying to rationalize buying one -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Stuff for Sale
Hi Everyone, Sorry about the cross-posting, but I have some stuff for sale that might be of interest to both lists. You can see the listings at the link below: http://thesaltycyclist.blogspot.com/2010/02/for-sale-listings.html Shipping is NOT included in the listed price. As always, please feel free to make an offer if you feel that my asking price is out of line. Thanks for looking, Joe _ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cleaning a Winter Drivetrain
I've spent a number of winters with steel frames encased in salt. I do clean them regularly, but all the same, rust does form. Isn't it a protective seal against further corrosion, though? I've convinced myself that it's all largely cosmetic and that any steel frame can withstand salt thrown at it for three months of the year. On Feb 1, 1:15 pm, geezer bair.m...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Mark, You don't mention whether they salt in your area or not. I live in northern Michigan where they salt with a vengeance. I can't ride anything nice in the winter here because of the salt. Even when things clear up a bit, any puddles on the road are corrosive. Kiss bare aluminum good-bye, cosmetically. Tiny paint chips on a steel frame become rust spots in minutes. Its awfully disheartening. The only solution I have found is to ride a craigslist beater in the winter. Old non-suspension mountain bikes work best. (We call them DUI-cycles around here!) Clean them periodically at the quarter-wash and use a non-sticky lube on the chain. I look for a bike with fender eyelets, decent chainrings and cassettes and a smooth bottom-bracket, then give them a tune-up in the fall. Don't fall in love with them, because they're disposable! It amazes me sometimes how much of a licking those old 6 and 7 speed bikes will take and keep on ticking. Mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Stuff for Sale
Hi Joe. Hmm. 34t 110bcd ring: I'd dig that! =- Joe Bunik Walnut Creek, CA On 2/2/10, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi Everyone, Sorry about the cross-posting, but I have some stuff for sale that might be of interest to both lists. You can see the listings at the link below: http://thesaltycyclist.blogspot.com/2010/02/for-sale-listings.html Shipping is NOT included in the listed price. As always, please feel free to make an offer if you feel that my asking price is out of line. Thanks for looking, Joe _ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Stuff for Sale
OOps, apologies to the list. =- Joe On 2/2/10, Joe Bunik jbu...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Joe. Hmm. 34t 110bcd ring: I'd dig that! =- Joe Bunik Walnut Creek, CA On 2/2/10, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi Everyone, Sorry about the cross-posting, but I have some stuff for sale that might be of interest to both lists. You can see the listings at the link below: http://thesaltycyclist.blogspot.com/2010/02/for-sale-listings.html Shipping is NOT included in the listed price. As always, please feel free to make an offer if you feel that my asking price is out of line. Thanks for looking, Joe _ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Franklin Canyon Ride
On Jan 31, 12:07 pm, Brad Gantt brdg...@gmail.com wrote: I took a nice ride over the hill to Franklin Canyon yesterday. The canyon is still quite wet from the recent rains and quite green. After climbing out on the Hollywood side, I headed over to Benedict Canyon which is a nice long climb that gets progressively steeper as you near the top. At only 16.5 miles, the ride still packs in a lot of vertical. It was a great ride. A few shots are posted here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/17053...@n02/sets/72157623321440696/ When I lived in North Hollywood that area was my normal riding area. There are lots of options to go over the hill to Hollywood and vice versa. On the Valley side there is a great fire road-dirt but hard pack-from Laurel Canyon to the top of the ridge at Mulholland and Coldwater. There is also a trail called White Fence that gets you there from Studio City about half way up the fire road. At the top of the ridge you dip down to Beverly Hills and then loop around Benedict. In the old days-80s-There was a great fire road from the bottom of the canyon to the top of Coldwater-ruined by development-and a terrific playground to the west on the old golf course now taken up with multi million dollar homes. I think it's called Beverly Park. I miss it. Phil Brown -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] 9speed to 8 speed cassettes
The only other thing I'd be aware of is the rear derailleur. If you are running a shorter cage RD, then you may run into some chain tensioning issues with a rear cassette range like that. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net ³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice. They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a one-hour bicycle ride.² - Tim Krabbe, The Rider Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: 9speed to 8 speed cassettes
On Feb 1, 4:47 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: You can't just leave off the smallest sprocket. You need a first position sprocket, i.e., a sprocket with a spacer built in; removing it and leaving the 2nd position sprocket hanging in the wind won't do it. I've taken off the small sprocket on a 9-speed Sram, filled the void with spacers and it has worked beautifully. Dura Ace downtube shifts between 8-speed XTR and 8-of-9 Sram are very crisp. John McMurry Burlington, VT -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Franklin Canyon Ride
Phil, I am not familiar with the White Fence trail, at least by that name. Where specifically does it originate in Studio City? Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
RE: [RBW] Re: Couple outdoor QB pics
Thanks, Mike! I've been pretty impressed with the Fatty R's--had a set on my Rawland, too. They roll nice on pavement, work great on dirt, even feel pretty secure over snow-covered ice like in these pics. Smooth riding tires, too... I am looking forward to longer rides on dirt and pavement but it was kinda fun to get out in such weather just to blow the cobwebs out. That Singleone is a pretty bike--I don't think you'd be settling if you waited for one. Steve -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Michael_S Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 1:00 PM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] Re: Couple outdoor QB pics The bike turned out very nice! Love those Fatty Rumpkins!! Now if you could just get rid of all that snow you could really enjoy it. I wish there were some 58 Quickbeams left, I guess I'll just have to wait for the Simpleone. Mike Snowless in SoCal On Feb 2, 5:16 am, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu wrote: I got out for a bit saturday--only ten or so miles twiddling around on our local MUP and over to my favorite bike shop to show it off. It was 18 degrees so ten miles seemed sufficient! Changed a couple of things--put a Dos Eno freewheel on for two speeds that don't require as much wheel movement which in turn allowed me to clean up the rear fender line a bit. (utilizing SKS quickreleases to allow wheel removal.) And I switched to a more conventional double crank (Sugino XD) and lost the chain guard but gained a bit bigger inner ring, which was a big help. Now I can cruise comfortably around 11-14mph whereas with the stock setup I was spinning out around 11mph which is just too low a gear for my local terrain... The bike is sooo comforatble--I really love it! And it's every bit as purty as my Orange Rambouillet in a bit more understated way... Fresh, snowy pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4316446711/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4317180490/ Next change I'm considering is adding interrupter levers for braking versatility... Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Nitto Canti Bolt
Perhaps someone can help me understand how the Nitto canti bolts sold by RBW might make attachment of a rack to the brake boss safer. It seems to me that by nudging the rack bracket a little further from the fork, it increases the mechanical advantage of the rack and bracket, thereby increasing the pressure on the braze rather than reducing it. Would it have something to do with the shorter stud on the Nitto bolt versus the longer stock bolts? That doesn't make immediate sense to me, but then I'm no engineer, so I'm sure there are many things I don't know. Thanks for your comments. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Nitto Canti Bolt
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Avuncular pyrogek...@gmail.com wrote: Perhaps someone can help me understand how the Nitto canti bolts sold by RBW might make attachment of a rack to the brake boss safer. It seems to me that by nudging the rack bracket a little further from the fork, it increases the mechanical advantage of the rack and bracket, thereby increasing the pressure on the braze rather than reducing it. Would it have something to do with the shorter stud on the Nitto bolt versus the longer stock bolts? That doesn't make immediate sense to me, but then I'm no engineer, so I'm sure there are many things I don't know. It only makes it safer in that you can take the rack on and off w/o loosening the brake bolt. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Nitto Canti Bolt
on 2/2/10 5:29 AM, Avuncular at pyrogek...@gmail.com wrote: Perhaps someone can help me understand how the Nitto canti bolts sold by RBW might make attachment of a rack to the brake boss safer. It seems to me that by nudging the rack bracket a little further from the fork, it increases the mechanical advantage of the rack and bracket, thereby increasing the pressure on the braze rather than reducing it. Would it have something to do with the shorter stud on the Nitto bolt versus the longer stock bolts? That doesn't make immediate sense to me, but then I'm no engineer, so I'm sure there are many things I don't know. I think you may be misreading the purpose of that bolt design. GP's comment about breaking bosses off strikes me as referring to the design aspect of attaching a rack to the boss in general. I expect this is why Rivendell designs with mid-fork brazeons. I thought that the specific type of bolt extension they sell - http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-canti-bolt-and-acorn-nut/20-201 was to prevent the rack, which is often times subject to torque and twisting from loads, from loosening the bolt. If you use a standard canti mount bolt, the rack would be between the brake arm and the bolt head, and if the bolt loosened, you would probably lose your braking. With the Nitto style bolt, you can torque the bolt down appropriately for the brake arm, and have a separated nut to hold the rack in place. The only rack they sell with the canti mount is the Nitto Highrider (shown on the Bomadil here - http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-highrider-front-rack/20-187 but, there are definitely other, lighter duty racks which attach in a similar manner. As seth noted, it also makes the rack swap move a bit easier. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Cleaning a Winter Drivetrain
On Tue, 2010-02-02 at 09:18 -0800, Rick Smith wrote: I've spent a number of winters with steel frames encased in salt. I do clean them regularly, but all the same, rust does form. Isn't it a protective seal against further corrosion, though? no some forms of aluminum corrosion do act that way, but not rust on steel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Perhaps the Hunqapillar will fit your yearing for bigger knobby tired lugged bikes? It is touted as somwhere between the Atlantis and the Bombadil. I haven't seen any geometry yet but to me that means at least a 2.0 29er tire. Perhaps Grant can fill in the missing geometry data so those of us who are searching for that kind of bike ( rough off-road capable) can decide on whether to wait for the 'Hunqa' or not. Mike Awaiting the Hunqa in SoCal On Feb 2, 8:55 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 7:14 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote: I think that for people who think TCO is an issue -- it is, and I don't try to change their minds. But I think if someone is wondering whether it's going to be an issue for them... it probably isn't. TCO was an issue, once, for me on one bike. Then I decided if I was in a place where it could happen I had to be going so slowly that I'd just stop and put a foot down. It's not like I have clips or clipless pedals anyway so putting a foot down isn't any extra work. :) -sv -- Grant et al I was the OP for this conversation, and was wondering about TCO for a specific reason: off-road riding an Atlantis with SPD pedals. When I'm clicked in, TCO is bad cuz' I'm not the fastest un-clicker-outer. That's mainly only a problem on singletrack. My AR doesn't have it, but it only fits 42-44mm tires. I'm looking at bikes that fit full 29ers, of which the Atlantis is one. No disparaging remarks about Atlantis were made or intended at all. That's a GREAT bike, no matter how much mucus is all over it! I'm trying to rationalize buying one -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Another Frame builder talked about TCO. http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2006/11/5/toe-overlap-no-problem.html There was a discussion recently on Classic Rendezvous Bike list; the tread titled “Toe overlap even on good bikes,” implied that toe overlap was a design flaw and one should not expect to see this on quality bikes. Toe overlap is a result of other critical design factors and cannot always be avoided especially on smaller frames. When a framebuilder designs and builds a racing frame, his main criteria are to: (1.) Place the rider in a position where he can pedal with maximum efficiency, and (2.) Design the frame so the finished bike will handle at speed in the best way possible. If the result of the design is toe overlap then the builder can do little because to achieve toe clearance other aspects of the frame’s design would have to be altered. For example the picture above shows my own bike. It has a small 52 cm. (C to T) frame and has about an inch of toe overlap. If I were to make the front end of the bike one inch longer to avoid toe overlap, I would have to do one of the four following things or a combination of all four. (1.) I could make the seat angle steeper, or (2.) the top tube longer. (3.) I could make the head angle shallower, or (4.) the fork rake (offset) longer. The first two would effect my riding position; the last two would affect the handling of the bike. Toe overlap is not a problem because riding and cornering at normal speed the front wheel never turns far enough for the toe to hit the front wheel. The only time it becomes an issue is when turning sharply at a very slow speed; doing a U-turn on a very narrow road for example. Caution and common sense are all that is required when executing a tight U-turn. If you are turning left then your right pedal will be down for maximum ground clearance as you coast into the turn. By the time you need to start pedaling again you are already half way through the turn, and the right crank has to complete ¾ of a turn before the toe is opposite the front wheel. By that time, you should be all the way around and the front wheel is straight ahead again. If you are not the coast again, or ratchet the crank back again on the freewheel. Doing the same maneuver with a fixed gear is a little trickier; but it is a matter of timing. Go very slow and start to turn as the toe passes the front wheel; that way the crank has a whole revolution to go before it makes contact again. If the front wheel is still turned the next time round; straighten the front wheel so the toe clears, then turn sharply after it has passed. Fixed gear and fenders (Mudguards.) is going to make this move a little difficult, but not impossible. With clipless pedals, you could unclip the outside foot and move your toe back to give more clearance. I sometimes get out of the saddle and simply point my toe downwards to give more clearance. What you need to avoid is a situation where you get your toe on the wrong side of the wheel in a turn; if you do, try not to panic. Ratchet the crank back if you have a freewheel, or if you are riding fixed gear, keep going and let the toe pass the front wheel so you can straighten up again. Lastly, I would like to point out that a racing motorcycle with narrow swept down handlebars; turning is restricted because the handlebars touch the fuel tank. Here is a machine that will go 200 mph plus, and restricted turning seems not to be a problem. Therefore, I maintain the opinion that toe overlap on a bicycle is neither a design fault nor a problem. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] For Sale: Nitto Albatross, Tech Stem and Tektro Brake Levers.
Hi Johnny, Just checking to see when the brake levers were mailed, and if it was regular USPS. I just want to make sure they're not being held at my local post office. Can you let me know? Thanks Cheryl On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 9:32 AM, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.netwrote: Nitto Albatross Bars (CrMo) - $45 shipped Nitto Technomic Stem (10cm w/ 25.4mm clamp) - $40 shipped Silver Tektro hand brake levers (These are like the handbrakes that RIvendell sold that work universally but instead of black with silver levers the entire thing is silver. As far as I can see I can't find them for sale anymore.) - $25 I got all of these used and put them onto a bike but the project is halting so I am selling the parts. They are all in great shape. USed but not scratched up and abused. The brake levers are essentially brand new as those I got new and installed but never used. If you are interested email me at johnnyalien at verizon.net My ebay id is dahlia11 if you want to check out my feedback. Here is a photo of the bars installed. If someone wants the bars, stem and brakes I can leave it all together if you want the shellac'd grips. Otherwise those will be removed and the bar cleaned. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/1994%20Bridgestone%20XO-3/Full-2.jpg?t=1264086171 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- “Do or do not... there is no try.” - Yoda -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: TCO in general..
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:21 PM, RonLau ron...@ronlau.com wrote: Fixed gear and fenders (Mudguards.) is going to make this move a little difficult, but not impossible. With clipless pedals, you could unclip the outside foot and move your toe back to give more clearance. I sometimes get out of the saddle and simply point my toe downwards to give more clearance. In my experience, metal fenders actually help with TCO because they provide a smooth, rounded surface off which your toe clip or toe will slip more easily than on the rubber tire. As with most things, you get used to it and learn to deal with it so that it becomes a negligible problem. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com (505) 227-0523 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] TCO
TCO nearly brought me down numerous times in the twelve years I've owned a Rivendell Longlow. Don't kid yourself, it is not necessary to travel 17 mph to fall and cause severe head injury or a broken hip. I've had both while wearing a helmet. The aforementioned injuries were sustained while riding other than the Rivnedell Longlow, nevertheless -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Nitto Canti Bolt
There is another Nitto front rack that also mounts on the brake bolts. Not sure of the name, though. Thought Rivendell sold it, but not now. Seems to me this whole thing was spawned by a review in a magazine that mentioned the possible safety issue. I can't see it being an issue. But it musta been to someone, somewhere, once. A pair was used to mount an Old Man Mountain rack to my Long Haul Trucker. They work as advertised. Still, it was a chore when I decided to switch racks over the weekend and remove those mounts. (Ah, winter boredom.) Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Feb 2, 1:23�pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/2/10 5:29 AM, Avuncular at pyrogek...@gmail.com wrote: Perhaps someone can help me understand how the Nitto canti bolts sold by RBW might make attachment of a rack to the brake boss safer. It seems to me that by nudging the rack bracket a little further from the fork, it increases the mechanical advantage of the rack and bracket, thereby increasing the pressure on the braze rather than reducing it. Would it have something to do with the shorter stud on the Nitto bolt versus the longer stock bolts? That doesn't make immediate sense to me, but then I'm no engineer, so I'm sure there are many things I don't know. I think you may be misreading the purpose of that bolt design. GP's comment about breaking bosses off strikes me as referring to the design aspect of attaching a rack to the boss in general. �I expect this is why Rivendell designs with mid-fork brazeons. I thought that the specific type of bolt extension they sell - http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-canti-bolt-and-acorn-nut/2... was to prevent the rack, which is often times subject to torque and twisting from loads, from loosening the bolt. If you use a standard canti mount bolt, the rack would be between the brake arm and the bolt head, and if the bolt loosened, you would probably lose your braking. With the Nitto style bolt, you can torque the bolt down appropriately for the brake arm, and have a separated nut to hold the rack in place. The only rack they sell with the canti mount is the Nitto Highrider (shown on the Bomadil here - http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-highrider-front-rack/20-187 but, there are definitely other, lighter duty racks which attach in a similar manner. As seth noted, it also makes the rack swap move a bit easier. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Yes! I already mentioned I hope it has... get this... room for 60mm tires and no TCO! :-) But I understand if it doesn't. That's the extreme end of the design spectrum, and may not be one of the goals. That doesn't mean it's covered in mucus, either! :-) On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 2:06 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote: Perhaps the Hunqapillar will fit your yearing for bigger knobby tired lugged bikes? It is touted as somwhere between the Atlantis and the Bombadil. I haven't seen any geometry yet but to me that means at least a 2.0 29er tire. Perhaps Grant can fill in the missing geometry data so those of us who are searching for that kind of bike ( rough off-road capable) can decide on whether to wait for the 'Hunqa' or not. Mike Awaiting the Hunqa in SoCal On Feb 2, 8:55 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 7:14 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote: I think that for people who think TCO is an issue -- it is, and I don't try to change their minds. But I think if someone is wondering whether it's going to be an issue for them... it probably isn't. TCO was an issue, once, for me on one bike. Then I decided if I was in a place where it could happen I had to be going so slowly that I'd just stop and put a foot down. It's not like I have clips or clipless pedals anyway so putting a foot down isn't any extra work. :) -sv -- Grant et al I was the OP for this conversation, and was wondering about TCO for a specific reason: off-road riding an Atlantis with SPD pedals. When I'm clicked in, TCO is bad cuz' I'm not the fastest un-clicker-outer. That's mainly only a problem on singletrack. My AR doesn't have it, but it only fits 42-44mm tires. I'm looking at bikes that fit full 29ers, of which the Atlantis is one. No disparaging remarks about Atlantis were made or intended at all. That's a GREAT bike, no matter how much mucus is all over it! I'm trying to rationalize buying one -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
On Feb 2, 8:02 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: Yes! I already mentioned I hope it has... get this... room for 60mm tires and no TCO! :-) But I understand if it doesn't. That's the extreme end of the design spectrum, and may not be one of the goals. That doesn't mean it's covered in mucus, either! :-) If that's the case then you might want to look at a 559 or 584 (650b) wheel-size bike, like a 56cm Atlantis or a 56cm Bombadil(?)I don't think you can get 60mm tires on either, though, but 60mm is pretty fat. I think those frames max out at 52mm.The Surly might be able to fit it, I'm not sure.I think you mentioned in the other thread that the 60cm Bombadil is too big for you, but the 56 would probably fit, and it has 650b wheels and zero chance of overlap. I have a 56cm Bombadil and really could not be happier with it. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: TCO in general..
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 6:02 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: Yes! I already mentioned I hope it has... get this... room for 60mm tires and no TCO! :-) .. 70 mms and fenders (TCO be damned)? Patrick wimpy skinny 60s Moore -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com (505) 227-0523 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Toe overlap is not a problem because riding and cornering at normal speed the front wheel never turns far enough for the toe to hit the front wheel. The only time it becomes an issue is when turning sharply at a very slow speed; doing a U-turn on a very narrow road for example. This is just untrue. Toe clip overlap is also a problem climbing very steep roads at very slow speeds. At least, it is for me. I had a Romulus, and I would regularly hit my foot on the wheel on climbs. Since I like to climb, I traded my Romulus (with 700 c wheels) for an Atlantis (with smaller wheels). -- -- Anne Paulson He who wills the ends wills the means -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Sunday AM climb
This is a shot from top of my local hill climb on the Atlantis on a brisk Sunday morning 1-24-10. Greater LA basin looking north from top of Palos Verdes- (approx. 1300 ft.) Snow caps on Angeles Crest from the recent storms. Port of LA/ San Pedro is just off t the right. /Users/todd/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2010/Feb 2, 2010/ IMG00031-20100124-1157.jpg -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Nitto Canti Bolt
Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks to both of you. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Nitto Canti Bolt
In my experience with the Nitto m12 rack, the special bolts prevent the brackets on the rack from tightening against the cantilever brake arms so tight that the brake doesn't pivot. The $15 bolts, while intuitively do reduce mechanical advantage (although the m12 struts are somewhat pliable), allow the both the brakes and the rack to be cranked down snugly without choking the brake arm movements. I have have an M12 attached to modern cantilever brakes (Tecktro cr720, and/ or Shimano BR550) that requires fancy bolts and another one attached to some old Mafacs that still pivot well with the stock bolts. I can't imagine the brake actually coming loose without the special nuts unless you were purposely leaving the stock bolts loose to prevent the brake arms from getting pinched. Regardless, the double ended bolts make for a clean install- especially with some acorn nuts covering up the ends. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Sunday AM climb-photo
Lets try this again... http://www.flickr.com/photos/24971...@n06/4326901594/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] WAS: TCO NOW: Tire Width Smack
David, of Redlands, CA, wrote: 60's are for sissies! --- I am amused to learn that my 42mm Grand Bois Hetres are now considered ³hard, skinny, racing tires.² -- Jon ³Papa² Grant Austin, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] WAS: TCO NOW: Tire Width Smack
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 6:56 PM, Jon Grant jgr...@papagrant.com wrote: David, of Redlands, CA, wrote: 60's are for sissies! --- I am amused to learn that my 42mm Grand Bois Hetres are now considered “hard, skinny, racing tires.” *-- **Jon “Papa” Grant *Austin, Texas -- Peloton wanna-be! -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] WTB Phil Wood 32h 130 or 135mm Rear Cassette Hub
Does anyone have a Phil Wood 32 hole cassette rear hub in new or used condition they would like to sell? I will take a wheel or just the hub. Really looking for just the hub - but will take a wheel if that is what you have. If it is a wheel, I have no rim size preference b/c I will just cut out the hub and relace it to my own rim - unless your rim is a 650b offset Synergy with Sapim Laser spokes Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Nitto Canti Bolt
Hopefully on topic since the canti bolts are suggested for it. Does the Nitto M12 readily mate to an Atlantis? I saw a post with picture in the past where the rack support that connects to the stud didn't quite line up and the owner was fearful of tweaking the rack to much. Later I saw other Atlantis pictures with the rack successfully installed. I'm building up an Atlantis and would like to include this rack in the build along with the canti bolts. Thanks, Mitch - San Luis Obispo, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
Hello all, This is kind of an interesting topic, and I think about it sometimes . . . so I'll add some thoughts. I have 8, or so, bikes (guess I need one more?) 6 of them don't have TCO, but my two FAVORITE bikes do: my 63cm AHH, and my 25 Jack Taylor (which has WAY more fork rake than the AHH.) Both of those bikes have fenders, and I might not have TCO if I removed the fenders (which I won't.) If those were my only bikes, I'd probably remember the TCO, and use proper low-speed techniques to compensate. It hasn't been a huge problem: I just occasionally graze the fenders on both, and quickly remember to adjust myself. IF you are riding unclipped, then it's pretty easy to put a foot down - especially with a low BB. Bottom line: my two favorite bikes have TCO, and it's not a big deal to me, just a minor, occasional annoyance. FYI: my other bikes are mainly variations of mountain bikes, including my Bike Friday with 20 wheels - no TCO there! The only sport touring bike that I have with no TCO is a '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer, and it has fenders too. It's a great bike, but I like the AHH and the JT better . . . I do understand that some may hate it - especially if you've had to eat pavement, or something. Best! Alex Moll Seattle (ish), WA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] TCO in general..
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 8:22 PM, james black chocot...@gmail.com wrote: Bicycles should not cause this kind of low-grade anxiety. It's unnecessary - if a bike has TCO, the wheels are too big. Design it out with smaller wheels! Oh, c'mon. TCO tolerance is as personal as saddle likes and pedal choices. I have no problem adapting to TCO with (1) clips and (2) fenders and (3) fixed drivetrain. I'd rather have TCO than other compromises, like smaller wheels -- on the Motobecane -- or poorer handling or weight distribution. Patrick anxiety? what anxiety? Moore, who automatically thinks about TCO even with his 559/571 bikes and finds it doesn't bother him in the least. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com (505) 227-0523 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: TCO in general..
On Feb 2, 2010, at 9:22 PM, james black wrote: On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 23:36, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote: TCO ends up being a problem---in my opinion---only in theoretics, but not in practice. THere are some builders who would disagree; and although in the spirit of diplomacy and reasonableness and agreeing to disagree and all that, I accept thatI can't understand it. To fear TCO or to regard it as Dangerouswell, it's ust something that to me doesn't make any sense. I also disagree - I strongly dislike toe clip overlap, having encountered it on a few frames (I usually ride long-raked 60-62cm frames now, so have little problem). It can be a problem trackstanding, riding slowly, turning sharply while riding a fixed gear, riding offroad, and climbing slowly. If it doesn't make you crash, it's still annoying, inconvenient, and I don't want to sit around while riding constantly thinking, Oh, I better be careful not to jamb my shoe into my fender. Bicycles should not cause this kind of low-grade anxiety. It's unnecessary - if a bike has TCO, the wheels are too big. Design it out with smaller wheels! Easier said than done. Any standard bike 60 cm or smaller will have to have 559 wheels- even 650B isn't small enough to guarantee no TCO. Most people find those aesthetics unacceptable as the small wheels makes the bike look like a toy in their eyes (I ride a '96 60 cm All Rounder with 559s, so I get that reaction a lot). Bicycle design involves compromises. You can eliminate TCO with a 68 degree head angle and 70 mm fork offset. But most people don't want to ride the bikes that would result from that geometry (You'll find that geometry on millions of old British 3 speeds. They handle like wheelbarrows but no TCO). You can eliminate TCO with a 62 cm top tube and normal angles, but nobody under 6 feet tall will be able to ride it and it'll look funny on a 56 cm frame. Or you can use a naked 23 mm wide tire instead of a 45 mm tire with fenders. Or you can build frames with tiny trail due to huge fork offsets (but I won't buy 'em. I had that geometry years ago, don't want it again. 55 mm trail is just about right). Sorry folks, but TCO is a necessary design compromise in many cases. Get a pencil, some graph paper, a compass, a straightedge and draw up some proportional drawings of bikes. You'll see the hopeless problem pretty quickly. It's easy to say get rid of TCO but it's well-nigh impossible to do so in every instance without designing something like the Moulton. I've done enough frame design to have worked this out for myself. I've got bikes with TCO, having size 13 feet and not liking to pedal on my tippy toes results in this. I haven't have a crash or a near crash in years, the last being riding fixed on the street on my old track bike (zero toe overlap problems on the velodrome, which is where such bikes belong. They don't belong on the street, speaking from experience) years ago. I'm used to the TCO since most of the bikes I've owned since I was 14 have had TCO, I don't pedal through corners at low speeds and have low enough gears- and thankfully enough strength- to not have to weave back and forth up hills. My riding style is adapted to the reality of my bikes. It's just not a problem. I think there are a number of us who want our cake and get to eat it too: sporty fast geometry with 45 mm tires, full fenders and no TCO. I'd say pick two. Some enchiladas can't be readily served whole. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
