[RBW] Re: Rough Riders Rally: photos, roster, awards winners, and more

2010-07-27 Thread cyclofiend


On Jul 26, 2:27 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Sadly and surprisingly, only one Rivendell was in attendance.

I dunno, doesn't look very sad to me  ;^)

All hail the Bleriot!

http://www.adventurecorps.com/rrr/2010/show02/pages/DSC04664.html

http://www.adventurecorps.com/rrr/2010/show02/pages/DSC04665.html

http://www.adventurecorps.com/rrr/2010/show04/pages/_7249639.html

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Re: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

2010-07-27 Thread Bruce
I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly. 





From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 26, 2010 5:04:59 PM
Subject: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

Greetings everyone ..  I'm in search of some smooth post
cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
at least good in if wet.


  

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[RBW] Re: Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

2010-07-27 Thread Ginz
I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes.  In the
future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes.  I believe the
Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop.

How about Avid, Jagwire and Ritchey, all good pads or so I am told and
popular with the Cyclocross folks.

I was not crazy about the IRD Cafam brakes.  If your canti studs are
not the correct length, or even a hair too short, the bolts bind the
arms as you tighten them down.  I had no success with the IRDs though
they seemed very nice.  If you are mounting them on a Rivendell frame,
might want to give them a call to check their experience with the
IRDs.


On Jul 27, 6:05 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I have also had good success with Aztecsbut then I've had good
 success with Kool Stop Salmons too

 Angus

 On Jul 27, 4:04 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:



  I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly.

  
  From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
  To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Mon, July 26, 2010 5:04:59 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

  Greetings everyone ..  I'm in search of some smooth post
  cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
  at least good in if wet.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

2010-07-27 Thread Ginz
One more note:  If you have only tried smooth-post brakes and pads,
definitely try the CR720s or the Cafams.  With threaded-post pads, the
adjustment is completely and causes of squealing are completely
different and you might find that Kool Stop pads work better than all
others.  Just a through.

On Jul 27, 9:44 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
 pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes.  In the
 future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes.  I believe the
 Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop.

 How about Avid, Jagwire and Ritchey, all good pads or so I am told and
 popular with the Cyclocross folks.

 I was not crazy about the IRD Cafam brakes.  If your canti studs are
 not the correct length, or even a hair too short, the bolts bind the
 arms as you tighten them down.  I had no success with the IRDs though
 they seemed very nice.  If you are mounting them on a Rivendell frame,
 might want to give them a call to check their experience with the
 IRDs.

 On Jul 27, 6:05 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  I have also had good success with Aztecsbut then I've had good
  success with Kool Stop Salmons too

  Angus

  On Jul 27, 4:04 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

   I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly.

   
   From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
   To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Sent: Mon, July 26, 2010 5:04:59 PM
   Subject: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

   Greetings everyone ..  I'm in search of some smooth post
   cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
   at least good in if wet.- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

2010-07-27 Thread EricP
Have had good luck with the Yokozuna pads.  Both my Sam Hillborne and
my wife's bike have them right now.  I want to say they are different
than Kool Stop as these are supposedly the old Mathauser compound.

Then again Jim Thill at Hiawatha Cyclery has had good luck with stock
Tektro pads.  Might want to try those first and see if they work on
your setup.  Cheap enough.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 27, 8:46 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 One more note:  If you have only tried smooth-post brakes and pads,
 definitely try the CR720s or the Cafams.  With threaded-post pads, the
 adjustment is completely and causes of squealing are completely
 different and you might find that Kool Stop pads work better than all
 others.  Just a through.

 On Jul 27, 9:44 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
  pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes.  In the
  future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes.  I believe the
  Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop.

  How about Avid, Jagwire and Ritchey, all good pads or so I am told and
  popular with the Cyclocross folks.

  I was not crazy about the IRD Cafam brakes.  If your canti studs are
  not the correct length, or even a hair too short, the bolts bind the
  arms as you tighten them down.  I had no success with the IRDs though
  they seemed very nice.  If you are mounting them on a Rivendell frame,
  might want to give them a call to check their experience with the
  IRDs.

  On Jul 27, 6:05 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

   I have also had good success with Aztecsbut then I've had good
   success with Kool Stop Salmons too

   Angus

   On Jul 27, 4:04 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly.


From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 26, 2010 5:04:59 PM
Subject: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

Greetings everyone ..  I'm in search of some smooth post
cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
at least good in if wet.- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nigel Smythe Tweed Bags

2010-07-27 Thread EcoVelo
Both of the bags are sold. Thanks, all!

On Jul 26, 9:45 am, EcoVelo ecoveloi...@gmail.com wrote:
 The buyer backed out, so the Country Bag is still available.

 Thanks,
 Alan

 On Jul 26, 7:55 am, EcoVelo ecoveloi...@gmail.com wrote:



  Hi,

  I have a pair of hard to find Nigel Smythe tweed bags for sale. These
  are a few years old, but in very good condition, never used in the
  rain, etc.

  Nigel Smythe Country Bag, Tweed: If I remember correctly, these sold
  new for around $200. Asking $125 + actual shipping

  Nigel Smythe Bar Tube, Tweed: Again, not sure on the original price,
  but asking $60 + actual shipping

  Photos here:

 http://www.ecovelo.info/images/nigel-smythe-countrybag.jpghttp://www

  Please contact me at the following e-mail address: a...@ecovelo.info

  Thanks!
  Alan

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[RBW] Re: Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices

2010-07-27 Thread Garth
Thanks for the tip about the Cafams Ginz.  The front and rear studs on
the Bombadil have slightly different depths, I ran into the same
binding problem with one set of my vintage Shimano cantlievers,
rendering them useless.

I need to follow the advice I always give other people .. the only
way to know, is to try it yourself.

I'll call Riv and ask them about the Cafams and CR720 on the Bombadil
and the differing depth of canti studs. The CR720 is now sold in
Polished Silver BTW. No one online has any photos though.

I'll probably get some VO pads and holders to try too. I like that
they are road sized pads, so they won't hit the fork blades like the
mtb ones do.

I found a pair of Aztec pads in my toolbox to try.  I'll get them wet
and see how they work.

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[RBW] Re: Wanted: very small Rivish/bobish bike (42-45cm seat-tube)

2010-07-27 Thread Lisa
Here are some geometry comparisons of small touring bikes (Riv
Atlantis, Surly LHT, Soma Saga).ETT = Effective Top Tube, SO =
standover in mm, STA = seat tube angle.

Make-and-size   ETT SO  STA
Atlantis-47cm   520 712 72.5
LHT-46cm515 724 74.5
LHT-42cm505 703 75
Saga-47cm   517 714 74.5
Saga-44cm   502 701 75

In this chart, note the difference in the seat tube angle (STA) on the
Atlantis.  To get the same saddle position relative to the pedals,
you'd have to push the saddle back on the Surly and Soma bikes.  Every
degree of STA is worth a little over 10 mm of saddle position in a
bike of this size (use your high school trig -- exact calculation
depends on seat height).   The correction is about 20 mm for a 74.5
degree STA and 25 mm for a 75 degree STA.

So the equivalent ETT for the 46 cm LHT would be about 535 mm, and for
the 42 cm LHT it would be 530.  For the Soma Saga 47 cm the equivalent
ETT would be 537, and for the 44 cm Saga it would be 527.

Bottom line:  the Atlantis' stated ETT measurement is the longest of
the bunch, but because of the shallower seat tube angle, it has the
shortest reach.

Handlebar height and head tube angle also affect reach.  This issue is
addressed in more generality and detail here:
http://www.rivbike.com/article/bicycle_making/the_top_tube_ruse

Lisa

PS:  If the OP's friend's PBH is 670 mm, she won't be able to stand
over any of these bikes.  She may need a mixte, or a bike with 24
wheels.

On Jul 27, 1:35 am, Ian Dickson iandicks...@gmail.com wrote:

 The bike is tiny, but with the small wheels and level top tube it
 looks normal and nicely proportioned.  A lot of small frames look like
 they've been squashed.  I haven't looked at the geometry, but I would
 guess that the 46cm LHT is similar to a 47cm Atlantis, which would be
 nicer if your friend is willing to spend the money.  My wife is very
 happy with the Surly, though.  They are nice bikes.

 Ian

 On Jul 26, 8:43 pm, Ken Mattina ken.matt...@gmail.com wrote:

  The soma buena vista comes in a 42cm size.  The salsa vaya comes in a 50cm
  although according to the geometry chart, the seat tube measures 45cm.

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[RBW] Re: Wanted: very small Rivish/bobish bike (42-45cm seat-tube)

2010-07-27 Thread cm
I would try to find a shop with a 42cm Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT).
If it is a good fit, she could probably cannibalize her Gary Fisher
and end up with a new bike in the $400 range. B/B/S (beg/borrow/
steal) any parts that she is missing. I have had good luck with the i
need this part posts.

Cheers!
cm

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[RBW] Re: Wanted: very small Rivish/bobish bike (42-45cm seat-tube)

2010-07-27 Thread Phil Bickford
Earl - If you go with 24 tires like the Red-Line then here's a
bobish alternative:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/bik/1863030284.html

Tire selection is probably abysmal in 24.  I'd try to stay with 26
if you can.

Phil B


On Jul 26, 7:53 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 My friend has been riding a Fisher mountain bike for years (a 13) but
 now wants a faster/more versatile bike for mixed and road riding and
 commuting. Pretty much the only stock bikes that fit her are Terrys
 (her PBH is 67cm), and she isn't quite ready to drop $3000. Does
 anyone have a very small diamond-framed or small mixte-framed (up to
 48cm?) bike sitting around looking for a rider?

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[RBW] I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread William
Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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Re: [RBW] I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Bill Connell
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 1:25 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.


I'm in for sure! I'd like to try to build my own frame eventually, and
it'll be really interesting to have Grant's take on the design
process, especially since whatever i end up building will no doubt
have a hefty dose of Riv influence.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: FS: Tweed Big Loafer w/rain cover

2010-07-27 Thread stevew
The bag and cover have been sold.

Steve

On Jul 26, 9:39 pm, stevew st...@stevewimberg.com wrote:
 I am selling my tweed Big Loafer.  It is in used good condition.  It
 has seem a little rain, but still looks nice.  There is some
 discoloration on the little D rings on the top, the snaps, and on the
 leather straps that go under the bag.  Inside is clean.  Here is a URL
 for pix:

 http://picasaweb.google.com/swimberg/BigLoafer?authkey=Gv1sRgCMnIv46T...

 I also have the large rain cover that fits over it.

 How does $95 for the bag and cover, including USPS Priority shipping
 sound?

 Steve Wimberg

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Re: [RBW] I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Bill Gibson
I'm in. I want to document my bikes and reconstruct bikes from my past.

On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 1:25 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.


 I'm in for sure! I'd like to try to build my own frame eventually, and
 it'll be really interesting to have Grant's take on the design
 process, especially since whatever i end up building will no doubt
 have a hefty dose of Riv influence.

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN

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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Interesting tiny upcycled panniers found, cheap!

2010-07-27 Thread William
http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443

I have no affiliation with this guy.  He apparently got his hands on
some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
panniers.  They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5 x 11
item), but he offers it as a pannier, a shoulderbag, a saddlebag, and
a handlebar bag.  Cheap at $42 each
(shipping included)  (or only $30 if he doesn't do any modifications
to the base bag).

Riv content: he correctly uses the term 'beausage'.

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Re: [RBW] Interesting tiny upcycled panniers found, cheap!

2010-07-27 Thread Ken Freeman
This is Jeff Potter, Michigan cyclist and outdoorsman.  He's been
active on several lists that have high overlap with this one.


On Tuesday, July 27, 2010, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443

 I have no affiliation with this guy.  He apparently got his hands on
 some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
 panniers.  They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5 x 11
 item), but he offers it as a pannier, a shoulderbag, a saddlebag, and
 a handlebar bag.  Cheap at $42 each
 (shipping included)  (or only $30 if he doesn't do any modifications
 to the base bag).

 Riv content: he correctly uses the term 'beausage'.

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-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Touring gear list advice

2010-07-27 Thread doug peterson
That is cool!  Modifying Ti is a bit above my pay grade, tho.  They
say the make it out of scrap, so I'm guessing small runs.  I'll ask
them if they'll do one with a 15 mm open end.

dougP

On Jul 26, 7:54 pm, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:
 And it should be made of titanium.

 http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/dept...

 Okay, not a pedal wrench, but it could be modified.



 On Mon, Jul 26, 2010 at 7:46 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
  What this world needs is a 15 mm pedal wrench on one end with a bottle
  opener on the other.  When was the last time you found a 9/16
  spindle?

  I have a nice collection of cheap cork screws, gathered on various
  tours.  Can you believe 6 wine drinking cyclists  NO ONE thought to
  bring one?  Guess we're not the wine snobs we make out to be.

  dougP

  On Jul 26, 5:59 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  No corkscrew 
  required.http://www.stx.ox.ac.uk/system/files/images/Knob+Creek.JPG

  On Mon, Jul 26, 2010 at 4:42 PM, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
   Jeez, do all of you travel without a corkscrew!  I did that once and
   found myself in the Maine woods trying to open a cabernet with a screw
   driver.  I swore never again.  Now I always include a swiss army knife
   in my tool kit.  There's only so much civilization I leave behind when
   I tour.

   michael

   On Jul 26, 7:07 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Who you calling hypercracker?

Bring a hypercracker.

   http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/stein-mini-lock/

On Jul 26, 3:54 pm, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I'd bring a leatherman, a bike tool, some chain lube, patch kit, 3
 spare tubes, chain pin, folding tire, and a GOOD bike pump that has a
 gauge.

 To me that would be a dream tool/ repair kit. Get really comfortable
 with the patch kit and it will save you some $$$ and pump your tires
 up every morning.

 I hope you are going North to South!!!

 Cheers,
 cm

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  Redlands, CA

  Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
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[RBW] Re: Seat Sgueaks!

2010-07-27 Thread Peter Andrews
The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
ever had.  I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
applying various 'remedies' (Obenauf's on the underside of the
leather, getting some between the rear plate and leather, tightening
and loosening the tension bolt, lube the rails where they're clamped
by the seat post), all of which gave some temporary relief, but the
creak would eventually come back.  Somehow I'd forgotten the old rule
of thumb about lubing up the areas where metal contacts metal (aside
form the rails), especially where threaded (you know, like your crank
bolts and pedals and bearing cups and even your quill in the fork
tube).  I took some of Phil's Tenacious oil, took my saddle off for
ease of access, and made sure to douse the tension bolt threads, the
plate it threads into, and especially where that plate (the one the
tension bolt goes through, and this was my 'aha!' moment) wraps around
the front loop of the seat rails.  This is a pivot point where metal
rubs metal, and if your saddle is really tight, it rubs hard. If it's
tighter than that (it shouldn't be!) it won't move and thus won't rub
and thus will not squ(c)reak until the leather stretches and allows
for movement and the squ(c)reak comes back (and then many of us who do
not know better will tighten it again (this includes me) until it goes
away and comes back again and again and again luckily I only did
this a few times and did not ruin my saddle).  I chose the tenacious
oil over a heavier grease so it could penetrate better.  Chain oil
would penetrate, but might not be viscous enough to have a lasting
effect.  If you're a feather-weight, you might get a nano-meter of
movement as you mount or dismount, or if you aggressively pedal-bounce
in your seat.  We heavier riders will get a bit more movement (and
volume) than that.  My bike is now stealthy silent, but for the purr
of the chain and the coasting click of the freewheel.  I hope this
helps.

-Peter

On Jul 26, 5:22 pm, thirty-six thirty-...@live.co.uk wrote:
 On 26 July, 16:18, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:

  Not mine, the Riv's.

  I'm using a Brooks Swift and it is making noise. I'll characterize it  
  as a leathery squeak.
  I've lubricated and checked the fasteners and think this is a leather  
  squeak not a rail to seat post or seat post to frame squeak.

  Has anyone here encountered such a problem?

 Yes.



  Any experience/tips on how to cure saddle squeak?

 Look for a loose rivet and close it up.
 Oil the leather after releasing some tension.   At least with the
 Wrights saddles the leather would likely mishape because it doesn't
 always draw in the oil evenly.  So with the thicker Brooks I also am
 careful to detension before applying oil.  Use castor oil if you don't
 have the Brooks dressing.  If the squeak still exists it's more likely
 the saddle clamp and rail interface than the nose adjuster of the
 saddle.  Sometimes a bit of paper around the saddle rail is needed to
 prevent the return of the squeak.  For the adjuster, use a solid
 lubricant such as molybdenum disulphide for a long term cure.



  I'm particularly concerned as the Swift I used on Sierra-to-the-Sea  
  developed a bent tensioner bolt and went kaput.

 Wow!

  It's a bummer as Swifts work great for me. I'm becoming skeptical  
  about their durability not to mention their acoustic qualities.

  -JImD

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Re: [RBW] Interesting tiny upcycled panniers found, cheap!

2010-07-27 Thread Tim McNamara


On Jul 27, 2010, at 1:54 PM, William wrote:


http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443

I have no affiliation with this guy.  He apparently got his hands on
some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
panniers.  They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5 x 11
item), but he offers it as a pannier, a shoulderbag, a saddlebag, and
a handlebar bag.  Cheap at $42 each
(shipping included)  (or only $30 if he doesn't do any modifications
to the base bag).

Riv content: he correctly uses the term 'beausage'.


Ah, this is Jeff Potter's web site.  Jeff knows his way around  
Rivendellia and is an ardent DIY'er.  In some ways he makes Grant  
seem pretty mainstream.  Jeff also offers some interesting bike books  
including Victor Vincente of America's epic poem to dirt bike riding.


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[RBW] Re: Interesting tiny upcycled panniers found, cheap!

2010-07-27 Thread William
Seems like a cool guy.  I searched on ETSY and somebody is doing
exactly the same thing with exactly the same surplus bags for $114 a
pair plus shipping.  I went ahead and bought a pair...$85 shipped.
I'll find some good uses for them.

On Jul 27, 2:20 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 On Jul 27, 2010, at 1:54 PM, William wrote:

 http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443

  I have no affiliation with this guy.  He apparently got his hands on
  some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
  panniers.  They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5 x 11
  item), but he offers it as a pannier, a shoulderbag, a saddlebag, and
  a handlebar bag.  Cheap at $42 each
  (shipping included)  (or only $30 if he doesn't do any modifications
  to the base bag).

  Riv content: he correctly uses the term 'beausage'.

 Ah, this is Jeff Potter's web site.  Jeff knows his way around  
 Rivendellia and is an ardent DIY'er.  In some ways he makes Grant  
 seem pretty mainstream.  Jeff also offers some interesting bike books  
 including Victor Vincente of America's epic poem to dirt bike riding.

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[RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread pruckelshaus
Don't stop at drawing it, build it!  I built my first frame this past
spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
nicest frames I've ever ridden!

On Jul 27, 2:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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[RBW] Re: Touring gear list advice

2010-07-27 Thread Dave Craig
I like doing my own maintenance and fixing my own mechanical problems
on the road. I tend to see dealing with repair problems as part of the
adventure of touring. I also enjoy being of service to other tourers I
meet who are having bike issues. So, because I enjoy wrenching and
being independent of shop mechanics, I do carry a heavier tool kit. I
economize on other equipment to balance out the weight. Note: For self-
contained touring, my total base gear load is about 45 pounds
including the panniers.


Bike Touring Repair Kit Contents
(With some items carried elsewhere)*

--All of these items are packed in a small, 2-pocket fanny pack and
travel in a front pannier. This is the kit I use for 2- to 6-week,
self-contained tours where bike shops might be inconsistently
available--

Tools

Crank Bro’s M10 Multitool
Park 8/10 Open End Wrench
Chainring Bolt Tool
Mini Vise Grips
Brooks Saddle Spanner
Park Chain Checker (CC-3)
Stein Mini Cassette Lockring Tool
Park Spoke Wrench
½ Hacksaw Blade
15mm Wrench
Park CT-5 Chain Tool
Single 5mm Hex Wrench (for seat adjustment)

Tire Repair

TTO2 Patch Kit – Double Contents
2 Valve Caps
2 Presta Stem Nuts
Presta/Schrader Rim Adapter
Presta/Schrader Fill Adapter
1-2 Spare Tubes
Spare Tire

Spares

2 Ortlieb Pannier Clip Spacers
2 Planet Bike Fender Stay Bolts
1 Bottom Fender Spacer
2 Ortlieb Rack Spacers
4 M5 Stainless Fender Washers
4 M5 Stainless Washers
4 M5 Split/Lock Washers
4 M5 Nylock Nuts
10 Asst’d Stainless M5 Bolts
Derailleur/Brake Cable End Crimps
Derailleur/Brake Cable Housing End Caps
3 Cable “Donuts”
Brake Noodle Boot
8  9 Speed Sram  Powerlinks
5mm Cassette Spacer (allows use of 7 speed cassette on 8/9 speed hub)
Brake Cable
Brake Pads
Derailleur Cable
FiberFix Spoke

Miscellaneous

Modified Jansport Fanny Pack
Assorted Zip Ties
Tenacious Tape(TM)
Therm-A-Rest Repair Kit
Small Bottle Phil Grease
Small Bottle with Boeshield T-9 Lube
Small Bottle Blue Loctite

Total weight of above items = 3 lbs 14 oz

*Repair Items Carried Elsewhere

Small Swiss Army Knife (Kitchen)
Folding Scissors (First Aid)
Sewing Kit (First Aid)
3 Spokes (Taped to Rack)
Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP (Frame)
Dollar Bill (Tire Boot)
Mini Duct Tape Roll (Front Pannier)
Nylon Cord (Clothesline and Repair - Front Pannier)


On Jul 25, 10:30 pm, thebvo the...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy all!
 I'm doing the Pacific coast tour (2000 miles - yikes) in september.
 It will be my first long distance tour ever, so I would love to hear
 suggestions on what to bring, besides camping gear.
 I've been backpacking for 10 years, so that part is covered, but what
 I'm curious about deals with bike tools and accessories and tips.  For
 example:  bike pumps - cO2 cartridge or top tube pump?  Pedals -  Grip
 king or cages? - I am NOT doing the lance armstrong shoes.  So, I
 dunno.  I'm just puttin it out there if anyone with experience wants
 to float some knowledge my way about touring.
 Thanks a lot
 ~Ben
 ps: I'll be out in the woods canoeing for 3 weeks, but when I get back
 I'll be ready to read and learn.  Cheerio

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Rob Harrison

Pics please!

I'm intrigued by this idea, and will try to follow along if I can make  
the time. We often debate the merits of hand drawing versus computer  
drawing versus Building Information Modeling in my office. We're using  
ArchiCAD for most of our projects now, but sometimes I think about  
chucking it all and going back to drawing with parallel rule, scale  
and triangles which, by the way, I still have from when I started  
architecture school in 1974, and work just as well as they did then.


Rob in Seattle


On Jul 27, 2010, at 3:55 PM, pruckelshaus wrote:


Don't stop at drawing it, build it!  I built my first frame this past
spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
nicest frames I've ever ridden!


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Re: [RBW] I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread tarik saleh
This was in one of the old Bridgestone catalogs, or perhaps in a BOB
pamphlet for those who have the complete archival collection, it is in
there somewhere.  Maybe a bridgestone handout?


I think if you have lots of drafting experience, this is pretty easy.
Lots of framebuilders work from full sized frame drawings so they can
lay the tubes and tacked assembluies on the drawings to quickcheck
dimensions and angles.  Akll you really need is a big ruled straight
edge, a adjustable triangle and a compass. Musty recollection is that
was all that was in the old Grant draw a bike publication.



On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 12:25 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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-- 
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tas at tariksaleh dot com
in los alamos, po box 208, 87544
http://tariksaleh.com
all sorts of bikes blog: http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Bill M.
You might want to play around with BikeCAD, too.

http://www.bikeforest.com/CAD/index.php#

The full-featured version is expensive, but the on-line Java version
is free and quite fun to play with.  It can even model 650b wheels
with 42 mm tires!

Bill

On Jul 27, 11:25 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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[RBW] Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread JB
I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
much more.

I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

Thanks,

John

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[RBW] Re: Seat Sgueaks!

2010-07-27 Thread thirty-six


On 27 July, 21:40, Peter Andrews beardedpe...@gmail.com wrote:
 The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
 ever had.  I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
//  //
  I chose the tenacious
 oil over a heavier grease so it could penetrate better.  Chain oil
 would penetrate, but might not be viscous enough to have a lasting
 effect.

Careful with any mineral oil for it is the enemy of leather, the
fibres will break where contaminated.

 If you're a feather-weight, you might get a nano-meter of
 movement as you mount or dismount, or if you aggressively pedal-bounce
 in your seat.  We heavier riders will get a bit more movement (and
 volume) than that.  My bike is now stealthy silent, but for the purr
 of the chain and the coasting click of the freewheel.

A judicious use of grease and oil will take care of that.

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[RBW] Re: Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread EricP
Don't have a Hilsen, but have a Sam Hillborne.  Also 220 (this year.
Last year was about 240 when the bike arrived.)  No problems at all.

Now, the SH is a bit stouter built than the AHH.  So there may be a
slight difference.  However, I don't think you'll have a problem.

If you purchased through Rivendell and Grant and/or Keven gave to okay
(or kave the gokay) then it should be good.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 27, 4:00 pm, JB baile...@voyager.net wrote:
 I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
 lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
 hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
 deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
 Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
 touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
 few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
 of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
 much more.

 I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
 necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
 have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

 Thanks,

 John

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Re: [RBW] Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread CycloFiend
on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:

 I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
 lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
 hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
 deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
 Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
 touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
 few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
 of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
 much more.
 
 I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
 necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
 have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

What size frame are you getting?

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

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'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary
handlebars, grinning indulgently, eyeing Tom's helmet.  Double disbeleif:
not one, but two grown Americans riding bicycles.
-- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac

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Re: [RBW] Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread Rene Sterental
I'm currently 266 lbs, down from 280 in June. I have both a 61 Homer
that I ride with Open Pro 32 spoked wheels and tires pumped F60/R90
with 35mm Mara Supremes and a 61 Atlantis that just replaced the 60
Bombadil that was too big for me. The Atlantis has Dyad 36 rims with
50mm Big Apples pumped to F30/R50.

While I ride mostly seated, when I stand to pedal the Atlantis has no
rub whatsoever while the Homer's front tire rubs against the Honjo
fender somewhere and I can see the front wheel flex a bit. At first I
thought it was the front derailer rubbing, but after paying some
attention realized the noise came from the fender, and I could avoid
it by not tilting the bike so much to miunimize the wheel flex while
standing.

The Atlantis has 60mm Berthoud fenders but there si no rubbing and I
don't see the stronger Dyad wheels flex.

You should have no problems with good wheels.

Now, choosing between the Homer and the Atlantis...

René

On 7/27/10, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Just order it with a thicker downtube and pay the upcharge.

 On Jul 27, 2:00 pm, JB baile...@voyager.net wrote:
 I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
 lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
 hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
 deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
 Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
 touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
 few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
 of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
 much more.

 I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
 necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
 have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

 Thanks,

 John

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RE: [RBW] Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread Larry Powers

I have a Rambouillet and an Atlantis. The Atlantis is a work horse that can 
haul a load and is fun to ride unloaded.  I have ridden 200k brevets on it when 
my Rambouillet was out of commission.  The Rambouillet feels more lively when 
unloaded and will always be my first choice for unloaded riding.  I have even 
done Inn to Inn touring on the Rambouillet bike.  I currently weigh 210, have 
been as high as 230 and as low as 200.  I have not been disappointed by this 
bike.

It is my understanding that the Hilsen tubing falls in between the Rambouillet 
and the Atlantis.  I think given your description this is the bike you are 
looking for.  I will offer this, if you aren't sure call Rivendell.  I have 
found that they are very good at matching bike and rider and they won't steer 
you wrong.

Larry Powers 

 

Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain




 Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:00:09 -0700
 Subject: [RBW] Big guy advice
 From: baile...@voyager.net
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 
 I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
 lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
 hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
 deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
 Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
 touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
 few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
 of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
 much more.
 
 I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
 necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
 have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.
 
 Thanks,
 
 John
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Seth Vidal
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 6:55 PM, pruckelshaus pruckelsh...@gmail.com wrote:
 Don't stop at drawing it, build it!  I built my first frame this past
 spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
 nicest frames I've ever ridden!


I realize this is off-topic but Mike Flanigan of ANT bikes in
massachussets offers a bike building class where you get one one one
lessons and leave the class with a bike frame. I know at least one
person who has taken this course and he really enjoyed it.

http://antbikemike.wordpress.com/br-3/

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Bill Connell
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 9:03 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 6:55 PM, pruckelshaus pruckelsh...@gmail.com wrote:
 Don't stop at drawing it, build it!  I built my first frame this past
 spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
 nicest frames I've ever ridden!


 I realize this is off-topic but Mike Flanigan of ANT bikes in
 massachussets offers a bike building class where you get one one one
 lessons and leave the class with a bike frame. I know at least one
 person who has taken this course and he really enjoyed it.

 http://antbikemike.wordpress.com/br-3/


Doug Fattic in Michigan also does framebuilding classes, in fact i
think he's mostly teaching now and now building many frames. A friend
here in town took the class last fall and made a beautiful road frame.
I know other local builders will sometimes take on an apprentice, but
there aren't that many who do regular classes.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Steve
I did this:  signed up for a framebuilding class, measured my youngest
son who needed a good road bike, and built a virtual clone of my
Rambouillet.  The only change I made
was to increase the fender clearance slightly under the headtube and
the seat stay bridge since my Ram frankly runs at the minimum usable
clearance with 28mm tires.  The lugged bike turned
out to be spectacular:  it handles, if you can believe this, slightly
better than the Ram (although I suspect that my handling test was
biased due to less weight in the front bag).  No matter;  he loves the
bike.  I spent about twelve Sundays building this and loved every
minute of it.  If you can spare the time and cash, do it.

Steve
Ames, IA

On Jul 27, 1:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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[RBW] Tonight's Ride Photo

2010-07-27 Thread Eric Norris
Taken from aboard my Quickbeam (aka The Quickbeam That Conquered France).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/4836538284/ 

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat Sgueaks! Fixed!

2010-07-27 Thread JimD


Well, my squeaker was the leather at the nose of the saddle rubbing on  
the plate that the nose rivets attach to.


I applied a bit of neatsfoot oil to the juncture of the plate with the  
leather and voila - No More Squ(C)reaks.


Thanks to all for the many suggestions.

-JimD

...and special thanks to Peter for coming up with the tech term of   
the week Squ(C)reaks'.


On Jul 27, 2010, at 1:40 PM, Peter Andrews wrote:


The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
ever had.  I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
applying various 'remedies' (Obenauf's on the underside of the
leather, getting some between the rear plate and leather, tightening
and loosening the tension bolt, lube the rails where they're clamped
by the seat post), all of which gave some temporary relief, but the
creak would eventually come back.  Somehow I'd forgotten the old rule
of thumb about lubing up the areas where metal contacts metal (aside
form the rails), especially where threaded (you know, like your crank
bolts and pedals and bearing cups and even your quill in the fork
tube).  I took some of Phil's Tenacious oil, took my saddle off for
ease of access, and made sure to douse the tension bolt threads, the
plate it threads into, and especially where that plate (the one the
tension bolt goes through, and this was my 'aha!' moment) wraps around
the front loop of the seat rails.  This is a pivot point where metal
rubs metal, and if your saddle is really tight, it rubs hard. If it's
tighter than that (it shouldn't be!) it won't move and thus won't rub
and thus will not squ(c)reak until the leather stretches and allows
for movement and the squ(c)reak comes back (and then many of us who do
not know better will tighten it again (this includes me) until it goes
away and comes back again and again and again luckily I only did
this a few times and did not ruin my saddle).  I chose the tenacious
oil over a heavier grease so it could penetrate better.  Chain oil
would penetrate, but might not be viscous enough to have a lasting
effect.  If you're a feather-weight, you might get a nano-meter of
movement as you mount or dismount, or if you aggressively pedal-bounce
in your seat.  We heavier riders will get a bit more movement (and
volume) than that.  My bike is now stealthy silent, but for the purr
of the chain and the coasting click of the freewheel.  I hope this
helps.

-Peter

On Jul 26, 5:22 pm, thirty-six thirty-...@live.co.uk wrote:

On 26 July, 16:18, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:


Not mine, the Riv's.


I'm using a Brooks Swift and it is making noise. I'll characterize  
it

as a leathery squeak.
I've lubricated and checked the fasteners and think this is a  
leather

squeak not a rail to seat post or seat post to frame squeak.



Has anyone here encountered such a problem?


Yes.




Any experience/tips on how to cure saddle squeak?


Look for a loose rivet and close it up.
Oil the leather after releasing some tension.   At least with the
Wrights saddles the leather would likely mishape because it doesn't
always draw in the oil evenly.  So with the thicker Brooks I also am
careful to detension before applying oil.  Use castor oil if you  
don't
have the Brooks dressing.  If the squeak still exists it's more  
likely

the saddle clamp and rail interface than the nose adjuster of the
saddle.  Sometimes a bit of paper around the saddle rail is needed to
prevent the return of the squeak.  For the adjuster, use a solid
lubricant such as molybdenum disulphide for a long term cure.




I'm particularly concerned as the Swift I used on Sierra-to-the-Sea
developed a bent tensioner bolt and went kaput.


Wow!


It's a bummer as Swifts work great for me. I'm becoming skeptical
about their durability not to mention their acoustic qualities.



-JImD


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[RBW] Re: Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread JB
61

On Jul 27, 8:59 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:

  I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
  lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
  hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
  deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
  Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
  touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
  few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
  of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
  much more.

  I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
  necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
  have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

 What size frame are you getting?

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

 'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary
 handlebars, grinning indulgently, eyeing Tom's helmet.  Double disbeleif:
 not one, but two grown Americans riding bicycles.
 -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac

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[RBW] Re: Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread JB
Thanks all,

I'm buying the bike at The Country Bike Shop in Ohio -- they're a
Rivendell dealer.  The owner (Dick) was great to work with and spent
all day with me getting the right fit.  I tried a number of sizes of
Hillbourns and Hilsens.  The second I got on the 61cm Hilsen I knew I
had the right fit.  Between riding my own bike to the shop and riding
different Rivendell's, I put on 93 km that day and had a good long try
on all the bikes.  However, there are no (zero, none, nada)  hills in
that part of Ohio and he had no Atlantis to try.  I have been in
contact with Rivendell (Mark) and it seemed that either bike would be
OK.  The frame is already in but it'll be about 3 weeks before the
build is done.  Just wanted some reassurance from the masses.

Thanks, it doesn't sound as though I really have any worries.

John

On Jul 27, 9:47 pm, Larry Powers lapower...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I have a Rambouillet and an Atlantis. The Atlantis is a work horse that can 
 haul a load and is fun to ride unloaded.  I have ridden 200k brevets on it 
 when my Rambouillet was out of commission.  The Rambouillet feels more lively 
 when unloaded and will always be my first choice for unloaded riding.  I have 
 even done Inn to Inn touring on the Rambouillet bike.  I currently weigh 210, 
 have been as high as 230 and as low as 200.  I have not been disappointed by 
 this bike.

 It is my understanding that the Hilsen tubing falls in between the 
 Rambouillet and the Atlantis.  I think given your description this is the 
 bike you are looking for.  I will offer this, if you aren't sure call 
 Rivendell.  I have found that they are very good at matching bike and rider 
 and they won't steer you wrong.

 Larry Powers

 Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain



  Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:00:09 -0700
  Subject: [RBW] Big guy advice
  From: baile...@voyager.net
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
  lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
  hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
  deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
  Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
  touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
  few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
  of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
  much more.

  I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
  necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
  have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

  Thanks,

  John

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[RBW] Re: Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread Dave Craig
Jim's question is key. Frame size matters. Given the same tubing, big
frames flex more than smaller ones. Riv has gone to double TT's to add
stiffness to the larger frame sizes.

I weigh about 210 and I'm pretty athletic. When I stand and pedal
aggressively, I sometimes flex my 64cm Atlantis in the same manner you
describe. My 60cm Bombadil doesn't have the same degree of flex even
under off road conditions because it's smaller, has double TT's and
thicker tubing overall.

Dave



On Jul 27, 5:59 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:

  I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
  lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
  hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
  deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
  Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
  touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
  few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
  of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
  much more.

  I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
  necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
  have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

 What size frame are you getting?

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

 'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary
 handlebars, grinning indulgently, eyeing Tom's helmet.  Double disbeleif:
 not one, but two grown Americans riding bicycles.
 -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-07-27 Thread Bill Gibson
I took a welding class (Welding for Artists, or something like that)
at the local community college a few years ago and got to try
everything and developed instant respect for the simplest welds in my
life. I got to try both gas and electric and gas brazing and plasma
cutting, and it's on my list. But teaching school science starting
last week, 6 weeks too soon for me -maybe it's time to retire and ride
and make bikes and whittle spoons and kuksas...need to gather school
supplies...

On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Steve sring...@gmail.com wrote:
 I did this:  signed up for a framebuilding class, measured my youngest
 son who needed a good road bike, and built a virtual clone of my
 Rambouillet.  The only change I made
 was to increase the fender clearance slightly under the headtube and
 the seat stay bridge since my Ram frankly runs at the minimum usable
 clearance with 28mm tires.  The lugged bike turned
 out to be spectacular:  it handles, if you can believe this, slightly
 better than the Ram (although I suspect that my handling test was
 biased due to less weight in the front bag).  No matter;  he loves the
 bike.  I spent about twelve Sundays building this and loved every
 minute of it.  If you can spare the time and cash, do it.

 Steve
 Ames, IA

 On Jul 27, 1:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
 frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: quieting the Shopsack

2010-07-27 Thread Calm54
Oliver:  I have the Sackville Shopsack in the Wald.  I really like it
and I don't have the rattle issue.  I did get a wobble in the front
tire when I reach 27.2 miles per hour.  Do you ever get a wobble in
your front tire?  Cal M.

On Jul 25, 9:35 pm, Oliver S. os...@pdx.edu wrote:
 The medium Sackville Shopsack in the Wald basket has been wonderful.
 Keeps things dry, easy to detach and bring into the store, nice
 looking, easy to open and close, canvas feels nice, etc. But sometimes
 the rattle from the dog leash hooks bothers me. I was wondering if
 anyone was using any clever methods to reduce the rattle. Figuring
 that some old tubes or cloth tape would work. Any other ideas?

 Thanks,
 Oliver Smith

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[RBW] Re: Any Interest of doing a S240 in Bay Area?

2010-07-27 Thread reidplum
Sunday would probably not do for me, unfortunately. Saturday afternoon
is good, if you want to really pack your day. Maybe the next weekend
would be better?

Reid

On Jul 26, 3:53 am, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 That's wonderful! We should get together and do a short ride to meet.
 I'm traveling all week but will be home on Friday night.

 Care to meet somewhere on Sunday morning and go for a 10-15 mile ride
 with a stop for coffee and chatting afterwards?

 I have a few doctor appointments on Saturday morning, and the
 afternoon is going to be most likely devoted to family time after
 being away all week, but if needed, Saturday afternoon is also an
 option.

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[RBW] Re: Interesting tiny upcycled panniers found, cheap!

2010-07-27 Thread Philip Williamson
I talked a bit with Jeff Potter on a Rivendell ride up Mt Diablo a few
years ago. Really nice guy.

 philip
97128


On Jul 27, 3:02 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Seems like a cool guy.  I searched on ETSY and somebody is doing
 exactly the same thing with exactly the same surplus bags for $114 a
 pair plus shipping.  I went ahead and bought a pair...$85 shipped.
 I'll find some good uses for them.

 On Jul 27, 2:20 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:



  On Jul 27, 2010, at 1:54 PM, William wrote:

  http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443

   I have no affiliation with this guy.  He apparently got his hands on
   some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
   panniers.  They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5 x 11
   item), but he offers it as a pannier, a shoulderbag, a saddlebag, and
   a handlebar bag.  Cheap at $42 each
   (shipping included)  (or only $30 if he doesn't do any modifications
   to the base bag).

   Riv content: he correctly uses the term 'beausage'.

  Ah, this is Jeff Potter's web site.  Jeff knows his way around  
  Rivendellia and is an ardent DIY'er.  In some ways he makes Grant  
  seem pretty mainstream.  Jeff also offers some interesting bike books  
  including Victor Vincente of America's epic poem to dirt bike riding.

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