[RBW] Re: Yoke height for Racer Centerpull brakes
Rene, have you read Sheldon's article on cantilever geometry? http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical (links to the section on mechanical advantage) Of course, the specifics of the article are about cantilevers, but the information about straddle cable height should be pretty much the same for centerpull calipers. The truth is, I don't think there is one optimal MA setting for these types of brakes, it really comes down to the vagaries of your personal setup and your own preferences in how your brakes feel. Sheldon points out that the normal instincts of brake feel, coming from cars--that a firm, stiff response in the lever is optimal-- doesn't necessarily lead to the best brake set up here. MA is basically the ratio of distances traveled between lever and pad. At higher MA's, the lever is traveling much farther than the pad is, and thus it can feel spongy and worrisome. However, if you think about it, high MA means that all that distance being traveled by the lever is turning into clamping force at the rim, just like when you use a simple lever and fulcrum, you push the lever a much greater distance than the load, but produce a greater force than you could unaided. Thus, spongy feeling levers can actually produce prodigious stopping power, and have great modulation. However, with too much MA the lever can bottom out on the handlebars. Lower MA's, conversely, feel firmer at the lever and prevent the lever bottoming out on the bar, but you will need to squeeze the lever harder within that smaller range in order to produce the same stopping power as before. So some of it comes down to hand strength, some to how your lever interacts with the curve of your bars, and some to how you want the lever to feel when you pull back on it. I would set the MA as high as is possible while maintaining what feels to you like an okay range of motion for the lever, i.e. that doesn't risk bottoming out on the bars. I took this to the extreme on a bike i recently sold. It had a traditional medium-profile cantilever (single front brake on a fixed gear) and a nice old LX mtb (pre-v brake) lever. I basically set the straddle cable in line with the bottom of the fork crown, so as low as it could go without affecting clearance. The lever traveled relatively far, but MAN, could that thing stop--it shot me forward off the seat the first time i pulled it. On Apr 12, 9:37 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote: Finally figured out how to use the calculator. However, while I can see the MA go up or down, what is the optimal MA to strive for? I'm still unsure, based on all I've read, whether a lower or a higher MA are better. I thought I understood that lower MA meant more modulation but more force needed to apply the brakes; also a spongier feeling at the lever. Higher MA meant ligher snappier feeling that stops very quickly but looses modulation. Is it then a matter of finding what you like or is there a number or setting to go for? René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yoke height for Racer Centerpull brakes
I think you guys are making this way more complicated and confusing than it needs to be. If you want to lift something with a cable it is best to pull it in exactly the direction you want it to move.So a long and nearly vertical arm, like the neo-retros move upward in a wider, flatter arc and therefore need a higher cable set pretty close to 90 degrees to lift the arm upward. A lower profile like the Shimano brake moves more inward in a narrower arch and so will work better with a shorter cable, also set close to 90 degrees. I'm not staring at my neo-retros right now, but I believe Paul recommends a 6 high straddle and I believe that is about where mine is set. They work great. I also have both the Racers (on a my tandem) and the Racer Ms on my Rambouillet. You will get a pretty good angle at about 4 on these. That is where mine are set and they work quite well. michael On Apr 13, 2:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote: Rene, have you read Sheldon's article on cantilever geometry? http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical (links to the section on mechanical advantage) Of course, the specifics of the article are about cantilevers, but the information about straddle cable height should be pretty much the same for centerpull calipers. The truth is, I don't think there is one optimal MA setting for these types of brakes, it really comes down to the vagaries of your personal setup and your own preferences in how your brakes feel. Sheldon points out that the normal instincts of brake feel, coming from cars--that a firm, stiff response in the lever is optimal-- doesn't necessarily lead to the best brake set up here. MA is basically the ratio of distances traveled between lever and pad. At higher MA's, the lever is traveling much farther than the pad is, and thus it can feel spongy and worrisome. However, if you think about it, high MA means that all that distance being traveled by the lever is turning into clamping force at the rim, just like when you use a simple lever and fulcrum, you push the lever a much greater distance than the load, but produce a greater force than you could unaided. Thus, spongy feeling levers can actually produce prodigious stopping power, and have great modulation. However, with too much MA the lever can bottom out on the handlebars. Lower MA's, conversely, feel firmer at the lever and prevent the lever bottoming out on the bar, but you will need to squeeze the lever harder within that smaller range in order to produce the same stopping power as before. So some of it comes down to hand strength, some to how your lever interacts with the curve of your bars, and some to how you want the lever to feel when you pull back on it. I would set the MA as high as is possible while maintaining what feels to you like an okay range of motion for the lever, i.e. that doesn't risk bottoming out on the bars. I took this to the extreme on a bike i recently sold. It had a traditional medium-profile cantilever (single front brake on a fixed gear) and a nice old LX mtb (pre-v brake) lever. I basically set the straddle cable in line with the bottom of the fork crown, so as low as it could go without affecting clearance. The lever traveled relatively far, but MAN, could that thing stop--it shot me forward off the seat the first time i pulled it. On Apr 12, 9:37 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote: Finally figured out how to use the calculator. However, while I can see the MA go up or down, what is the optimal MA to strive for? I'm still unsure, based on all I've read, whether a lower or a higher MA are better. I thought I understood that lower MA meant more modulation but more force needed to apply the brakes; also a spongier feeling at the lever. Higher MA meant ligher snappier feeling that stops very quickly but looses modulation. Is it then a matter of finding what you like or is there a number or setting to go for? René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme
Well I'll let you all know how the Dureme 50's work on my early green Hillborne. They were shipped out yesterday. Clearly I won't be able to run fenders.. So it will be my mid to late summer configuration. In the fall, the Berthoud 50mm fenders and Pasela TG 37's will go back on. Looking forward to some fast, versatile cush. I'll keep you posted. Jason On Apr 9, 2:31 pm, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote: I highly recommend vittorria hypers. On Sat, Apr 9, 2011 at 1:12 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: Jason My Hillborne is an Orange one. I bought it from Riv in December of 2009, and at the time, I think there were some Greens still around in some sizes, but there were no Green 56's. After another pass through my taxes, I've decided that a $150 set of tires for my Hillborne (for which I already have 7 reasonably appropriate pairs of tires) would be an extravagance. Maybe later this spring What are the 7? 1. IRC Mythos knobbies 2. Pasela 37's 3. Jack Browns 4. Soma New Express 32s 5. IRC Tandem 700x30 6. Continental 700x28 7. Roly Poly OK, I admit I'll probably never run the Conti's or the Roly Polys on the Hillborne, and the 37 Paselas are on the tandem at the moment. :) Bill Bill On Apr 9, 9:37 am, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote: Bill , Is yours an older green or a new orange Hillborne. I remember when I was at RBW, Keven telling me that the new oranges had a bit more clearance at the chain stays. I purchased the last 56cm guy in the house. So, I know that as far as Hillbornes go...my bike has less room for big tires. Still, I'd like to know that the 50mm Duremes are on a Synergy rim. They may be great as a cush, fast tire with no fender. Currently I'm running 37mm Pasela TG under 50mm Berthoud / SKS fenders. Jason -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yves Gomez
On Apr 11, 3:44 pm, SamuelJames samcoal...@gmail.com wrote: Any men ride one? Just curious cause I would love one but my fragile male ego says no. I rode a 'girls' bike all thru college. My Dad commuted on a 'girls' bike for years. Mixtes are really nice for normal stop and go, on and off the bike, kind of stuff. Egos are over rated. My 2 cents. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] new tool rolls
Just saw this pop up on the riv website http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/sackville-mark-s-toolwrap/20-228 looks like a nice step from the burrito wrap. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: new tool rolls
Looks like I may be ordering that because my burrito wrap with tire levers, patch kit, tube, small open wrench, mulitool and a couple bucks was stolen right off my bike last week while it was briefly locked up. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Flickr Legola group
on 4/12/11 1:38 PM, Jim M. at mather...@gmail.com wrote: Martin started a Legolas group here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/legolas/members/ Only 3 lonely Legolas (Legoli?) so far, including the only 2 copper colored ones. How about adding some more pics, or are Legolas owners too bashful, too busy riding? I think on a percentage basis, that could be a pretty significant number. I know of three, plus yours and the ones which were (thankfully?) not the right size in the Frame Specials section of the site. Not sure how many of those bicycles got built, but I'd be surprised if it was more than 30. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes The Gallery needs your photos! Send 'em in - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines She edged in to get a better look at the bike, how it was made, the intricacy of its brakes and shifters pulling her straight in. Beauty. -- William Gibson, Virtual Light -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: new tool rolls
That wrap is really nice, but I admit I've still got a softspot for the original burrito wrap. Mine I bought from Bridgestone Owners Bunch, so it's nearly 20 years old now. I was going to get a couple more until I saw this. While I think the Sackville one is worth $30 and it will enable me to even more neurotically bag-match, it's a stretch for me to justify it being worth 10x the burrito wrap. I want one of the $30 ones, for sure, but I really like having a $3 toolwrap. That comes up often, doesn't it. Especially in the Riv vs Surly discussion. If the Surly can be ridden all the same places, weighs about the same, and costs much less, then a Riv must be a rip-off. Right? If a burrito wrap holds tools, is water resistant, and straps to your seat rails for $3, then $30 for this other thing must be a rip- off, or is at least overkill. It comes down to these solutions- looking-for-a-problem things. I was fine with my burrito wrap until this thing showed me that I wasn't fine with my burrito wrap. On Apr 13, 8:40 am, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote: Looks like I may be ordering that because my burrito wrap with tire levers, patch kit, tube, small open wrench, mulitool and a couple bucks was stolen right off my bike last week while it was briefly locked up. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: new tool rolls
On Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 1:59 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: That wrap is really nice, but I admit I've still got a softspot for the original burrito wrap. Mine I bought from Bridgestone Owners Bunch, so it's nearly 20 years old now. I was going to get a couple more until I saw this. While I think the Sackville one is worth $30 and it will enable me to even more neurotically bag-match, it's a stretch for me to justify it being worth 10x the burrito wrap. I want one of the $30 ones, for sure, but I really like having a $3 toolwrap. That comes up often, doesn't it. Especially in the Riv vs Surly discussion. If the Surly can be ridden all the same places, weighs about the same, and costs much less, then a Riv must be a rip-off. Right? If a burrito wrap holds tools, is water resistant, and straps to your seat rails for $3, then $30 for this other thing must be a rip- off, or is at least overkill. It comes down to these solutions- looking-for-a-problem things. I was fine with my burrito wrap until this thing showed me that I wasn't fine with my burrito wrap. I think you're committing a fallacy there. X is Y does not imply Not X is Not Y So a burrito wrap is a good item for the price does not mean a tool roll is NOT a good item for the price. It doesn't have to be a ripoff just b/c it costs more - that only works when you are only judging value by a single characteristic. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yves Gomez
On Apr 12, 12:23 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: . Why the price difference anyway? Gender- bais The $200 is for the custom paint job on the Ives. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: new tool rolls
I agree it is a fallacy. I was stating that is was a justification that we run across on these boards. But I don't think I'm necessarily committing that fallacy. I'll quote myself: I think the Sackville one is worth $30 I said it and I meant it. I want the Sackville one, but the presence of something that is 1/10th the cost, that I've been happily using for the same task for ~20 years has me in a position where it's a stretch, that's all. On Apr 13, 11:02 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 1:59 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: That wrap is really nice, but I admit I've still got a softspot for the original burrito wrap. Mine I bought from Bridgestone Owners Bunch, so it's nearly 20 years old now. I was going to get a couple more until I saw this. While I think the Sackville one is worth $30 and it will enable me to even more neurotically bag-match, it's a stretch for me to justify it being worth 10x the burrito wrap. I want one of the $30 ones, for sure, but I really like having a $3 toolwrap. That comes up often, doesn't it. Especially in the Riv vs Surly discussion. If the Surly can be ridden all the same places, weighs about the same, and costs much less, then a Riv must be a rip-off. Right? If a burrito wrap holds tools, is water resistant, and straps to your seat rails for $3, then $30 for this other thing must be a rip- off, or is at least overkill. It comes down to these solutions- looking-for-a-problem things. I was fine with my burrito wrap until this thing showed me that I wasn't fine with my burrito wrap. I think you're committing a fallacy there. X is Y does not imply Not X is Not Y So a burrito wrap is a good item for the price does not mean a tool roll is NOT a good item for the price. It doesn't have to be a ripoff just b/c it costs more - that only works when you are only judging value by a single characteristic. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: new tool rolls
On Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 2:16 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: I agree it is a fallacy. I was stating that is was a justification that we run across on these boards. But I don't think I'm necessarily committing that fallacy. I'll quote myself: I think the Sackville one is worth $30 I said it and I meant it. I want the Sackville one, but the presence of something that is 1/10th the cost, that I've been happily using for the same task for ~20 years has me in a position where it's a stretch, that's all. Fair enough. I didn't mean to come down all 'fallacy-monger' on you. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yves Gomez
A, not too bad a deal... On Apr 13, 10:38 am, Bob Baxter aa7eq...@sbcglobal.net wrote: On Apr 12, 12:23 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: . Why the price difference anyway? Gender- bias The $200 is for the custom paint job on the Ives. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Flickr Legola group
intimate close up of Legolas caught in natural habitat http://www.flickr.com/photos/thehillsareburning/3286770378/in/gallery-41563482@N06-72157626491577380/ soon to be uploaded in the Group -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Flickr Legola group
I thought it was closer to 100 because, IIRC, there was a 2nd run. Now I'll have to check. jim m wc ca On Apr 13, 10:09 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 4/12/11 1:38 PM, Jim M. at mather...@gmail.com wrote: I think on a percentage basis, that could be a pretty significant number. I know of three, plus yours and the ones which were (thankfully?) not the right size in the Frame Specials section of the site. Not sure how many of those bicycles got built, but I'd be surprised if it was more than 30. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yoke height for Racer Centerpull brakes
The take home from the calculator, I think, is three-fold. 1. Wide profile cantilevers (ones like Mafacs, Tektro CR720, Paul Neo Retros) behave about the same regardless of straddle yoke height. For that reason, these brakes are almost impossible to screw up, and give consistent behavior pretty much every time. At any straddle height higher than the tire height, you are in the flat part of the curve, where big changes in straddle height mean small changes in MA. They can be frustrating if you think lowering the straddle will give you more power, though, because the payoff will be tiny. 2. Centerpulls have the most pronounced knee in the curve of any of the brakes listed. If the straddle is really low, then tiny changes in straddle height mean huge changes in MA. If the straddle is above ~1 inch, then it's almost dead flat, your MA will remain nearly constant regardless of straddle height. 3. Low profile cantilevers (like most 90's shimanos, Paul Touring Cantis, IRDs and similar) are hugely sensitive to straddle height. These are easily screwed up, and are highly tuneable for those who know what they want to do. The frustration is that if you move straddle height to clear a fender or a rack or similar, you might be in a spot where you hate how your brakes feel. The thing that a lot of people miss is the importance of the OD dimension in the calculator. It has a pretty big bearing on what MA you can achieve, but whatever this dimension is, you are basically stuck with it. The OD dimension depends on where your frame builder happened to install your canti-posts (and your rim diameter). If your frame builder mounted the posts a few mm on the low side, you'll get more MA. If your frame builder mounted them a few mm on the high side, you'll get less MA. Drag OD back and forth on your brake of choice and see the dramatic changes in the height of the MA curve. It's a pretty big deal. On Apr 13, 3:47 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I think you guys are making this way more complicated and confusing than it needs to be. If you want to lift something with a cable it is best to pull it in exactly the direction you want it to move. So a long and nearly vertical arm, like the neo-retros move upward in a wider, flatter arc and therefore need a higher cable set pretty close to 90 degrees to lift the arm upward. A lower profile like the Shimano brake moves more inward in a narrower arch and so will work better with a shorter cable, also set close to 90 degrees. I'm not staring at my neo-retros right now, but I believe Paul recommends a 6 high straddle and I believe that is about where mine is set. They work great. I also have both the Racers (on a my tandem) and the Racer Ms on my Rambouillet. You will get a pretty good angle at about 4 on these. That is where mine are set and they work quite well. michael On Apr 13, 2:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote: Rene, have you read Sheldon's article on cantilever geometry? http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical (links to the section on mechanical advantage) Of course, the specifics of the article are about cantilevers, but the information about straddle cable height should be pretty much the same for centerpull calipers. The truth is, I don't think there is one optimal MA setting for these types of brakes, it really comes down to the vagaries of your personal setup and your own preferences in how your brakes feel. Sheldon points out that the normal instincts of brake feel, coming from cars--that a firm, stiff response in the lever is optimal-- doesn't necessarily lead to the best brake set up here. MA is basically the ratio of distances traveled between lever and pad. At higher MA's, the lever is traveling much farther than the pad is, and thus it can feel spongy and worrisome. However, if you think about it, high MA means that all that distance being traveled by the lever is turning into clamping force at the rim, just like when you use a simple lever and fulcrum, you push the lever a much greater distance than the load, but produce a greater force than you could unaided. Thus, spongy feeling levers can actually produce prodigious stopping power, and have great modulation. However, with too much MA the lever can bottom out on the handlebars. Lower MA's, conversely, feel firmer at the lever and prevent the lever bottoming out on the bar, but you will need to squeeze the lever harder within that smaller range in order to produce the same stopping power as before. So some of it comes down to hand strength, some to how your lever interacts with the curve of your bars, and some to how you want the lever to feel when you pull back on it. I would set the MA as high as is possible while maintaining what feels to you like an okay range of motion for the lever, i.e. that doesn't risk bottoming out on the bars. I took this
[RBW] FS: Heron Road 56cm $750
Cross-post from BOB list since no one is beating down my door yet... Hi, everyone: Time for me to pass this along. It's nice but I usually end up riding my 650b bikes and I want to free up a little bike/ equipment money. This is one of the Waterford-built 531 models. If I recall correctly the geometry is: 56.5 tt, 56 st, 72.5 STA, 73.5 STA. The handling is really nice--somewhat Rivendellish/stable but snappier (I don't know how else to describe it). I got a good deal on the bike but then poured some money into it as I am wont to do. New rims (Velocity Synergy); new tires (Grand Bois Cypres, 26mm); new cranks (Stronglight Impact, 170mm, 46/36). The hubs, DT shifters, derailleurs, brake calipers and levers are Superbe Pro or Superbe. Nitto seatpost with some scratches, Origin 8 100mm threadless stem with quill adapter. No pedals but el cheapo plastic saddle included. Nitto Dream bars (42mm) sans tape. There a paint scrape on the top tube that was painted black but that's the only cosmetic issue that I see. The bike shop said the bearings in the hubs might be in need of replacement. I'd much prefer selling this to someone who can meet up with me in Seattle but wanted to give local iBobs first crack. That being said, get in touch if you're interested yet non-local and maybe we can swing it. I don't want to part it out. Drop me a line. Thanks! Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] What is that thing to the right of the fork crown?
Grant posted a pdf with some photos http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/420/original_April_13_misc_Layout_1.pdf One is a new fork crown for a new bike that we may see from them. It looks like a Hunqa-crown and says its designed around a 60mm tire. Then there's a little luggy thing to the right that Grant goes on and on about whether it's to the right or to the crown's left, but never says what it is. It looks like a head tube reinforcer of some kind to me, but I'm likely wrong. Could it be tandem pieces? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: new tool rolls
Dang, the khaki ones are already gone -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What is that thing to the right of the fork crown?
slingshot ammo. duh. On Apr 13, 4:13 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: Grant posted a pdf with some photos http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/420/original_April_13_misc_Lay... One is a new fork crown for a new bike that we may see from them. It looks like a Hunqa-crown and says its designed around a 60mm tire. Then there's a little luggy thing to the right that Grant goes on and on about whether it's to the right or to the crown's left, but never says what it is. It looks like a head tube reinforcer of some kind to me, but I'm likely wrong. Could it be tandem pieces? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Yves Gomez
Thanks again guys and girls, a Betty Foy actually looks good after said pep talk. On Apr 13, 1:24 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: A, not too bad a deal... On Apr 13, 10:38 am, Bob Baxter aa7eq...@sbcglobal.net wrote: On Apr 12, 12:23 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: . Why the price difference anyway? Gender- bias The $200 is for the custom paint job on the Ives. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: 700c touring/commuting wheelset
Selling a wheelset with the following components: Velocity Dyad silver rims, 32h, 700C Shimano LX M570 matte silver hubs (this is the older version with the external rubber boots), 135mm rear spacing Wheelsmith DB silver spokes, brass nipples Wheels were built by Universal Cycles, and have been ridden less than 2000 miles (front wheel has maybe 250 miles). No dings/dents, and no chain contact to the spokes. Might need minor touching up, but otherwise true. Includes rim strips, but does not include skewers. Only selling because I'm switching to disc brakes. $100 + shipping (via FedEx Ground). PayPal only. Note that I won't be able to ship these for 1-2 weeks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Small Saddle Bag- Nigel Smythe Keven's or Sackville Saddlesack XS?
Okay, so it looks like the shipment of frames, including my 54 Hunqapillar, will be departing from Taiwan sometime this week...and should arrive in 4 weeks. I'm stoked! =) I've been thinking about ordering a small saddle bag, and like both the tweed Nigel Smythe Keven's bag as well as the Sackville Saddlesack XS(in green). There's some uncertainty as to when and if the tweed bags will actually arrive, and there will be some design changes...but I'll still consider it as one of my options. Can anyone here who has owned either(or both) share their thoughts and comments on these bags? The tweed Nigel Smythe Keven's costs $90 and is made in England. The Sackville Saddlesack XS costs $55 and is made in the USA. So, there is a cost difference. But, I'm willing to spend the extra dough if the Nigel Smythe tweed bag is worth the difference. Thanks, ahead of time, for any help that you could offer. Much appreciated! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Wanted to preview Sam Hillborne
i live in West Virginia's eastern panhandle, about two hours outside Washington, DC. I'm interested in eyeballing a Sam, as part of the decision process. Anyone close willing to let me look over your ride? If you are, please contact me by email at: jmolenda@gmail.com Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
