Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[cyclotourist]

Perfect! And don't re-sell it down the line!

On 10/24/13, Abcyclehank  wrote:
> Mission accomplished pending payment and shipping details.  +1 down.  Let
> the trees unite.
> Special thanks goes out to Elton Pope-Lance for his tip and assistance
> connecting me to a potential seller.
> Also Kelly and Amit who have larger collections than I do still.
>
> Ryan "future 68cm Coleman Green Beam owner" Hankinson
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: New Schwalbe Mondial Tires 700x47

[jar351]

Price bump. How about $115 shipped or $105 local pickup?

On Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:23:10 PM UTC-7, jar351 wrote:
>
> I'm on a mission to find the largest 700c tires that will fit (well) on my 
> Miyata touring bike. I tried these Schwalbe Mondials and found that they 
> just BARELY fit, too tight in fact for practical use. So unfortunately they 
> must go. Sold as 47mm, they measure closer to 42mm on my 23mm rims. In case 
> you're not familiar with the Mondial model--I don't think Riv sells 
> them--they replaced the legendary XR's as the ultimate expedition touring 
> tires. Considering how robust they are and how hard-wearing they are 
> reputed to be, they're not heavy at all and roll quite well. Everything 
> I've read about them leads me to believe they are excellent tires and well 
> worth the dough. This pair has been mounted and test ridden around the 
> neighborhood (on paved roads), so technically they're not *
> brand-spanking-new*, but they're as good as new. These are the folding 
> Evolution Line version, the highest level that Schwalbe makes. I'm asking 
> $130 for the pair, shipped in the CONUS, or $120 with local pickup.
>
> Andre R.
> Oakland, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Hetre/Synergy safety issue?

[Peter Morgano]

This was a helpful article

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/24/mounting-tires-on-rims-with-deep-wells/
On Oct 25, 2013 1:13 AM, "Michael"  wrote:

> Someone on a thread here says Hetre BSD size is too big for synergy rims.
> Am I in danger using these tires with these rims?
> I don't want them coming off while I am riding.
> Mine seem to fit my new ( year 2012) Synergy rim fine.
> Also my Twin Hollow rim.
> Any advice welcome.
>
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Re: [RBW] Hetre/Synergy safety issue?

[Peter Morgano]

First I have heard. I have easily 1k miles on mine...
On Oct 25, 2013 1:13 AM, "Michael"  wrote:

> Someone on a thread here says Hetre BSD size is too big for synergy rims.
> Am I in danger using these tires with these rims?
> I don't want them coming off while I am riding.
> Mine seem to fit my new ( year 2012) Synergy rim fine.
> Also my Twin Hollow rim.
> Any advice welcome.
>
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[RBW] Hetre/Synergy safety issue?

[Michael]

Someone on a thread here says Hetre BSD size is too big for synergy rims.
Am I in danger using these tires with these rims?
I don't want them coming off while I am riding.
Mine seem to fit my new ( year 2012) Synergy rim fine.
Also my Twin Hollow rim.
Any advice welcome.

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[Abcyclehank]

Mission accomplished pending payment and shipping details.  +1 down.  Let the 
trees unite.  
Special thanks goes out to Elton Pope-Lance for his tip and assistance 
connecting me to a potential seller.   
Also Kelly and Amit who have larger collections than I do still.

Ryan "future 68cm Coleman Green Beam owner" Hankinson

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[Peter Morgano]

It's a beautiful space. Maybe it's the barista in me but I think if you
added a little latte machine and some stools it would be a great spot to
drink coffee and talk bikes.
On Oct 25, 2013 12:42 AM, "LeahFoy"  wrote:

> Wow, it is so beautiful! I feel like I'm being transported back to a
> simpler, happier time - like my childhood romps through the woods. I hope
> that magic rubs off into your customers...and their wallets!
>
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[Bill Lindsay]

MannySpotted in the photos.  Imagine that

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:42:00 PM UTC-7, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> Wow, it is so beautiful! I feel like I'm being transported back to a 
> simpler, happier time - like my childhood romps through the woods. I hope 
> that magic rubs off into your customers...and their wallets!

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[LeahFoy]

Wow, it is so beautiful! I feel like I'm being transported back to a simpler, 
happier time - like my childhood romps through the woods. I hope that magic 
rubs off into your customers...and their wallets!

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[grant]

It's a new experience for us...who are used to people trying to find us and 
knowing something about the bikes before they come in. Now we get rare 
curiosity seekers who don't know or care what a lug is, and mostly 
ask,"what's with the hatchets?", which of course is an excellent question. 
I addressed that on a page I taped to the front door window, but not 
everybody sees it, and--at least they're in the store. Our 3 day sales have 
been $752, $412, and up to 7:30 tonite (we close at 9, but I left 730), 
$316...and half is from friends-who-are-local customers already, and 
relatives,and the landlord bought two hatchets today (he lives in a 
spaceship house in Taos, is a retired carpenter, and needed them...he said).

We're going to start having events, like storytime for kids, how-two for 
bike riders, and maybe even some ride, like Learn the Local Trails. It's 
pretty clear that we can't just be cocky or even confident based on any 
history we have already. This saturday will be interesting, since -- 
saturday shopper traffic, or something. Anywayit's been great to see 
friends there..

I think there are pix on the BLug, and I'll make more.


On Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:23:39 PM UTC-7, Bill Rhea wrote:
>
> I was coming back from Sacramento on Tuesday and stopped at the new Bike, 
> Book and Hatchet location on Main Street for opening day.  Definitely worth 
> a visit!  Don't miss the "stick the lug to the rare earth magnet" game.
>
> I picked up the new catalog and a few odds and ends, including the new 
> Swedish green long sleeve wooly which has become my new favorite.  Great 
> seeing Grant again.
>
> -br
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[Michael]

>
> Wow! I am impressed. That is one classy looking bike shop.
>
I like the way the bikes are displayed, and all the wood in that place. 
Very  impressive. I hope it works out well for them. Thanks for sharing the 
pics.

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[RBW] Seagull Century 2013 ride report.

[Michael]

 It was my first century ride. Thanks everyone for all the tips on un-racer 
training for a century.

I did my regular commuting and then did long rides on the weekends. I did 
two 25 milers, a 36, a couple of 40's, a 62, a 63 and a 70 miler in 
preparation. I was very nervous all week before going on the ride. But once 
we hit the starting line all the fear evaporated and it was pure riding joy 
the whole time. I cruised in comfort on the Sam. 

 
 
*The Ride:*

I rode the Assateague Century Course - Salisbury University to Assateague 
Island loop. They also have a Snow Hill Century course, which I hope to try 
next year.

Beautiful weather. Clear skies and sunny. 60's-80's if I remember correctly.
 
Headwinds were practically non-existent and only felt in a couple areas. No 
hard efforts required. Some people have said that some years they are very 
bad. But this year there was almost nothing. I was very thankful.
 
It was pure riding joy, cruising along through the beautiful scenery on 
flats.
 
I went with a riding buddy, Dewey. We stuck together the whole time and had 
a blast. He has done the Seagull Century every year since they started (25 
years ago), except I think he said he missed 2 or 3 times.
 
Everyone was in high spirits. Cheerful and friendly. I think over 8,000 
people. But didn't seem crowded. Everyone was really spaced out. It was 
fully supported and had 4 or 5 rest stops. Lots of locals were out on their 
lawns and cheered us on as we went by. 
 The route took us through forested areas, farmland, and over to the beach 
at Assateague Island, and back to the school. Roads were in great condition. 

I saw no Rivendells. Bummer. I saw a Disc Trucker, some recumbents, a few 
tandems, lotsa modern geometry race style bikes, some older steel road 
bikes, a kid on a Next bike, an elderly woman riding the century, a Ragbrai 
person, and a Seattle to Portland person. I even saw two kids on really 
small road bikes that looked about 10 years old in pacelines!! 
 
*The Bike:* 
I rode my 41 Noodle Blue Sam that I got last spring. After getting my fit 
squared away on it, I can now say that it is the most comfortable bike I 
have ever ridden. I have had some seriously wonderful rides this year. Just 
so great to be able to go for long rides in comfort and not hurt.
I have been commuting on it this summer and took it on the training rides.
 On the century I had some normal bike riding minimal shoulder soreness a 
couple of times, which went away after a few arm windmills and moving my 
head around to look at the scenery for a few minutes. Also, my feet were a 
little sore after the ride. I guess because of so much pedaling all at one 
time. Those things are nothing to complain about though.
I would highly recommend the Seagull Century ride for  a first time century 
rider. All flat and you can just cruise right along. Plenty of support and 
well organized.
I think it was the best ride I have ever had. I thank the Lord for blessing 
me with such great riding this year and I hope there will be more to come.
A few pics from the ride:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157636910487253/

 

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[cyclotourist]

Jump on one of those 'Beams while you can!

On 10/24/13, Abcyclehank  wrote:
> Thanks all surprisingly have 3 opportunities for a 68 Quickbeam and in
> negotiations as we speak.  Sadly nothing on an elusive Antlantis yet but
> hope has not completely waned yet.
>
> Ryan"potentially +1 in the herd" Hankinson
>
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David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Seattle Mechanic Recommendation- Overhaul

[Andy Williams]

Tim,

FWIW, I recently had a good experience with Montlake Bike 
Shop. 
  They paid good attention to detail and expressed appreciation for the 
opportunity to work on a Rivendell.

Andy


On Thursday, October 24, 2013 5:32:29 PM UTC-7, Tim Tetrault wrote:
>
> Hey Seattle based RBW gang- I don't have the skills or tools to perform my 
> own overhaul, but could any of you recommend a reputable mech who maybe 
> knows their way around a Riv and will take pains to do a good job for a 
> full overhaul?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Rampart Reservoir S24O

[Deacon Patrick]

It was supposed to be a S48O, but between hunters and loud construction work on 
the dam from pre-dawn to post-dusk my brain was not getting the escape it 
needed. So I’m recovering from my recover ride. But that’s the joy of pushing 
the envelope to try and heal the brain — sometimes it pushes back.

It was a grand trip, with lots of day riding, including through snow on the 
north slopes, a few groves of aspen still in full color, and riding through a 
small finger of the Waldo Burn area. The sun is lower now, as my burnt nose can 
attest to despite wearing my brimmed hat. Apparently I need a sombrero. Grin. 
Temps are now getting down to the edge of my equipment and safety comfort 
level, so this will likely be the last camping trip till Spring. It was a 
fantastic one while it lasted.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157636920660764/

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Brake Pad Recommendations?

[Deacon Patrick]

Indeed, Bill. Blowing through brakes is a good problem to have, especially 
if you're not on a steep hill at the time. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:03:18 PM UTC-6, Bill Gibson wrote:
>
> Well done Deacon Patrick. I am always proud of wearing out brake pads, 
> rims, tires, chains, etc. Sad, though, when a frame cracks. 
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 7:53 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> > wrote:
>
>> Thanks again, Ron. Next time I have a parts question, I'll just write you 
>> off list. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 8:24:02 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>>>
>>> $9/pair for Kook Stop salmon - hard to beat
>>>
>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:19:00 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I replaced my brake pads this spring after a year of use. Now, I nearly 
 had to end a S24O before it started (but swapping sides worked) from brake 
 metal on rim. I’ve admittedly done a lot more steep single track, with 
 full 
 gear, plus riding slow behind my daughters, so no doubt my use has 
 increased. 

 What’s the most cost effective quality brake pad for cantilevered 
 brakes?
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Bill Gibson
> Tempe, Arizona, USA 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Brake Pad Recommendations?

[Bill Gibson]

Well done Deacon Patrick. I am always proud of wearing out brake pads,
rims, tires, chains, etc. Sad, though, when a frame cracks.


On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 7:53 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Thanks again, Ron. Next time I have a parts question, I'll just write you
> off list. Grin.
>
> With abandon
> Patrick
>
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 8:24:02 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> $9/pair for Kook Stop salmon - hard to beat
>>
>> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:19:00 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> I replaced my brake pads this spring after a year of use. Now, I nearly
>>> had to end a S24O before it started (but swapping sides worked) from brake
>>> metal on rim. I’ve admittedly done a lot more steep single track, with full
>>> gear, plus riding slow behind my daughters, so no doubt my use has
>>> increased.
>>>
>>> What’s the most cost effective quality brake pad for cantilevered brakes?
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
>>> *www.OurHolyConception.org*
>>>
>>>  --
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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: Brake Pad Recommendations?

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks again, Ron. Next time I have a parts question, I'll just write you 
off list. Grin.

With abandon
Patrick

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 8:24:02 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> $9/pair for Kook Stop salmon - hard to beat
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:19:00 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I replaced my brake pads this spring after a year of use. Now, I nearly 
>> had to end a S24O before it started (but swapping sides worked) from brake 
>> metal on rim. I’ve admittedly done a lot more steep single track, with full 
>> gear, plus riding slow behind my daughters, so no doubt my use has 
>> increased. 
>>
>> What’s the most cost effective quality brake pad for cantilevered brakes?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
>> *www.OurHolyConception.org*
>>  
>>

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[RBW] Re: Brake Pad Recommendations?

[Ron Mc]

$9/pair for Kook Stop salmon - hard to beat

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:19:00 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I replaced my brake pads this spring after a year of use. Now, I nearly 
> had to end a S24O before it started (but swapping sides worked) from brake 
> metal on rim. I’ve admittedly done a lot more steep single track, with full 
> gear, plus riding slow behind my daughters, so no doubt my use has 
> increased. 
>
> What’s the most cost effective quality brake pad for cantilevered brakes?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
> *www.OurHolyConception.org*
>  
>

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[RBW] Brake Pad Recommendations?

[Deacon Patrick]

I replaced my brake pads this spring after a year of use. Now, I nearly had to 
end a S24O before it started (but swapping sides worked) from brake metal on 
rim. I’ve admittedly done a lot more steep single track, with full gear, plus 
riding slow behind my daughters, so no doubt my use has increased. 

What’s the most cost effective quality brake pad for cantilevered brakes?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[Leslie]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/haircow/10434049705/

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[RBW] Seattle Mechanic Recommendation- Overhaul

[Tim Tetrault]

Hey Seattle based RBW gang- I don't have the skills or tools to perform my 
own overhaul, but could any of you recommend a reputable mech who maybe 
knows their way around a Riv and will take pains to do a good job for a 
full overhaul?

Thanks in advance.

Tim

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Platrack and Jack Brown Blue

[Chris]

The tires are sold.  Platrack is still available.  I'm open to reasonable 
offers.  Thanks!

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 8:23:10 PM UTC-4, Chris wrote:
>
> Nitto Platrack  (brand new)
> In original plastic packaging.  Never been installed.  Includes the rack, 
> pair of struts, hardware and installation instruction.
> $130, shipped to Continental USA
>
> Jack Brown Blue  (used)  
> A pair (one bike worth) of Jack Brown Blue.  Had about 400 miles on them. 
>  Never been punctured or had any flats.  Still plenty of life left.
> $70, shipped to Continental USA
>
> Please reply offline for offers, questions or picture requests.
>
> Thanks!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Cyclofiend]

No - I've never had to replace a freehub that didn't fail internally  
at the pawls.  They have looked pretty ugly at the splines, but since  
the cassettes are a semi-solid unit, it has not mattered. Between CX  
racing and singlespeed, mine have had rough lives.   Off the top of my  
head, I think it's just been a couple on the singlespeed mtb.  Which  
is why I like fixed.  No pawls to worry about... ;^)


- J

On Oct 24, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:


Jim,

I certainly have some longer reach brakes lying around, so that  
might be an option just to check and see.


I was planning on a new wheel when I went to 650b anyway, so  
switching out the hub was not really a big deal.  I currently have a  
Campy hub, forget whether it's Chorus or Centaur, so it definitely  
won't take a Shimano freehub.  I thought about just unlacing the rim  
from the hub and lacing up a 650b wheel, but I've had bad luck re- 
using hubs with multiple lacings, the flanges don't like it.


Or did you mean replace the freehub shell every time I replace a  
cassette?  I've never replaced a freehub shell before, usually I end  
up trashing the rim, or cracking the hub flange, or both, before  
wear on the freehub shell or splines become an issue.



On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Cyclofiend Jim > wrote:

Jim -

Probably better to pose that gearing/drivetrain question as a  
separate thread. A lot of folks dip into conversations based on the  
title.


One thing I didn't see mentioned was possibly changing your brakes  
but staying with the 622 (700C) wheelsize.  From your description,  
the tire is hitting the brake itself (and just on the rear?).  It's  
quite possible that simply going to a longer-armed brake with a  
better curve in the arms could gain both height for larger tires and  
width to clear a fender. A centerpull might work fine, and you could  
probably find a DiaCompe or similar quality with the dimensions to  
check it out. At the time time your bike was built, there probably  
was simply not the selection of brakes with longer reach.  You may  
have more room to work with than is indicated.


As far as drivetrain goes -
- Swapping from Campy to Shimano means you at least have to change  
the freehub when you buy new rear spockets, and depending on the  
hub, that may not be possible.  Therefore a new hub or wheel.
- If you are _really_ going to use friction shifting, then it  
doesn't matter what gear range or manufacturer's sprockets you use.   
You can hang the cheapest compatible sprockets onto the freehub.
- You are unlikely to wear out a rear derailleur unless you are  
cross-chaining, running high chain tension and continually applying  
excessive torque to the der. body.  Especially in a friction  
shifting environment, where you can compensate for a little bit of  
derailleur slop with the shifters.
- You'll burn many, many more sprockets and chains than you will  
derailleurs.


Hope that helps,

- Jim / cyclofiend.com



On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:14:08 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.

I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am  
trying to do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just  
blow money on bike parts that sound cool on some Internet forum  
anymore.


I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even  
though the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is  
that the parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8  
speed Shimano compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits  
are not reasonably priced and in the amount of riding I'll do  
preparing for PBP I will probably wear out at least some of them.


But how low is too low to go?  Is there anything functionally  
deficient about the new Shimano Claris group for example?  My  
requirements are that the parts work well, and that they look nice  
on a Rivendell in keeping with the general aesthetics of the bike.


In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite  
polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for  
around $75.  Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25.  The  
Claris long cage rear derailer also looks nice and goes for around  
$25 or so plus is rated for 32T.  A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is  
about $15 online and is nickle plated so looks nice.


Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also  
looks very nice but costs $88.  It also can handle 36T which  
admittedly is nice but I am fine with the gears I have now, which  
are 50-38-26 in the front and 13-26 in the back.  If I really need  
the Deore to get the job done in France so be it, but I'd rather not  
pay $88 for what I can do for $25.


Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am  
planning on friction shifting.  :0


Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it  
being machine built?  I can't build it myself for this cheap:

http:

[RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell Rambouillet - 58cm blue

[Eric]

Okay...bumpin' with price drop. $800 (fees/shipping are additional). 

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:39:17 AM UTC-5, Eric wrote:
>
> It has been on eBay but it didn't meet my reserve. I'm firm on the price, 
> which I think is pretty,pretty good. 
>
>
> On Monday, July 8, 2013 12:19:01 AM UTC-5, Eric wrote:
>>
>> So I recently bought this beautiful Rambouillet from member "Steve". And 
>> after a funny receiving it a funny thing happened. I took the frame down to 
>> the basement placed next to the other bikes, other frames, other wheelsets 
>> and other bike related stuff. Then I took a good look at everything, I 
>> assessed the stable and came to the realization that "this is too much!" 
>> and I can't possibly have every Rivendell ever existed (I own a Saluki & 
>> Atlantis as well) and that (fill in the number) of bikes is quite enough. 
>>
>> As a result this realization I have decided to sell this beauty!
>>
>> Rivendell Rambouillet - frame/fork/headset - 58cm
>>
>> Geometry can be found here: http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/geometry.html
>>
>> Nice condition but with a few knicks in the paint. No dings/dents.
>>
>> $900 (shipping / any PayPal fees are additional)
>>
>> http://imageshack.us/a/img69/6862/ns0p.jpg"; alt="" />
>> http://imageshack.us/a/img534/4475/nwu0.jpg"; alt="" />
>> http://imageshack.us/a/img259/9592/lzos.jpg"; alt="" />
>> http://imageshack.us/a/img607/6788/93ff.jpg"; alt="" />
>> http://imageshack.us/a/img842/2697/ud5v.jpg"; alt="" />
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[Abcyclehank]

Thanks all surprisingly have 3 opportunities for a 68 Quickbeam and in 
negotiations as we speak.  Sadly nothing on an elusive Antlantis yet but hope 
has not completely waned yet.

Ryan"potentially +1 in the herd" Hankinson

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell BBH visit

[jpp]

Anyone know of any pics of this place?  Please help your non-west coast 
friends!

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 4:23:39 PM UTC-4, Bill Rhea wrote:
>
> I was coming back from Sacramento on Tuesday and stopped at the new Bike, 
> Book and Hatchet location on Main Street for opening day.  Definitely worth 
> a visit!  Don't miss the "stick the lug to the rare earth magnet" game.
>
> I picked up the new catalog and a few odds and ends, including the new 
> Swedish green long sleeve wooly which has become my new favorite.  Great 
> seeing Grant again.
>
> -br
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Jim Bronson]

Jim,

I certainly have some longer reach brakes lying around, so that might be an
option just to check and see.

I was planning on a new wheel when I went to 650b anyway, so switching out
the hub was not really a big deal.  I currently have a Campy hub, forget
whether it's Chorus or Centaur, so it definitely won't take a Shimano
freehub.  I thought about just unlacing the rim from the hub and lacing up
a 650b wheel, but I've had bad luck re-using hubs with multiple lacings,
the flanges don't like it.

Or did you mean replace the freehub shell every time I replace a cassette?
I've never replaced a freehub shell before, usually I end up trashing the
rim, or cracking the hub flange, or both, before wear on the freehub shell
or splines become an issue.


On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Cyclofiend Jim
wrote:

> Jim -
>
> Probably better to pose that gearing/drivetrain question as a separate
> thread. A lot of folks dip into conversations based on the title.
>
> One thing I didn't see mentioned was possibly changing your brakes but
> staying with the 622 (700C) wheelsize.  From your description, the tire is
> hitting the brake itself (and just on the rear?).  It's quite possible that
> simply going to a longer-armed brake with a better curve in the arms could
> gain both height for larger tires and width to clear a fender. A centerpull
> might work fine, and you could probably find a DiaCompe or similar quality
> with the dimensions to check it out. At the time time your bike was built,
> there probably was simply not the selection of brakes with longer reach.
> You may have more room to work with than is indicated.
>
> As far as drivetrain goes -
> - Swapping from Campy to Shimano means you at least have to change the
> freehub when you buy new rear spockets, and depending on the hub, that may
> not be possible.  Therefore a new hub or wheel.
> - If you are _really_ going to use friction shifting, then it doesn't
> matter what gear range or manufacturer's sprockets you use.  You can hang
> the cheapest compatible sprockets onto the freehub.
> - You are unlikely to wear out a rear derailleur unless you are
> cross-chaining, running high chain tension and continually applying
> excessive torque to the der. body.  Especially in a friction shifting
> environment, where you can compensate for a little bit of derailleur slop
> with the shifters.
> - You'll burn many, many more sprockets and chains than you will
> derailleurs.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> - Jim / cyclofiend.com
>
>
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:14:08 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>> Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.
>>
>> I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am trying
>> to do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow money on
>> bike parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore.
>>
>> I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even though
>> the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is that the
>> parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8 speed Shimano
>> compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits are not reasonably
>> priced and in the amount of riding I'll do preparing for PBP I will
>> probably wear out at least some of them.
>>
>> But how low is too low to go?  Is there anything functionally deficient
>> about the new Shimano Claris group for example?  My requirements are that
>> the parts work well, and that they look nice on a Rivendell in keeping with
>> the general aesthetics of the bike.
>>
>> In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite
>> polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for around $75.
>> Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25.  The Claris long cage rear
>> derailer also looks nice and goes for around $25 or so plus is rated for
>> 32T.  A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is about $15 online and is nickle plated
>> so looks nice.
>>
>> Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also looks
>> very nice but costs $88.  It also can handle 36T which admittedly is nice
>> but I am fine with the gears I have now, which are 50-38-26 in the front
>> and 13-26 in the back.  If I really need the Deore to get the job done in
>> France so be it, but I'd rather not pay $88 for what I can do for $25.
>>
>> Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am
>> planning on friction shifting.  :0
>>
>> Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it being
>> machine built?  I can't build it myself for this cheap:
>> http://www.ebikestop.com/**quality_wheels_pavement_rim_**
>> brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_**shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__**
>> dt_competition_all_silver-**WE7429.php
>>
>> LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me.  I wish
>> it were 36H but the bike curren

[RBW] Rivendell BBH visit

[Bill Rhea]

I was coming back from Sacramento on Tuesday and stopped at the new Bike, 
Book and Hatchet location on Main Street for opening day.  Definitely worth 
a visit!  Don't miss the "stick the lug to the rare earth magnet" game.

I picked up the new catalog and a few odds and ends, including the new 
Swedish green long sleeve wooly which has become my new favorite.  Great 
seeing Grant again.

-br


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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Steve Palincsar]

On 10/24/2013 01:14 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:

Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.

I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am 
trying to do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow 
money on bike parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore.


I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even 
though the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is 
that the parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8 
speed Shimano compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits 
are not reasonably priced and in the amount of riding I'll do 
preparing for PBP I will probably wear out at least some of them.


Since cost is an issue, why not just leave it with the 9 speed Campy 
Chorus?  The only things you need to change for a 650B conversion are 
the wheels and the brakes.



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Re: [RBW] bridgestone posters for sale at Riv!

[Aaron Young]

Yes, I was just being light hearted.  I don't consider Riv prices to be
literally taxing, and Riv sure never forced me to buy anything wether I
wanted to or not. When I went to type Rivbike.com Rivbike.gov came out of
my fingers.  Instead of correcting it, I just went with it.

Even better than Rivbike.gov though would be Rivbike.guv'na.  Well, maybe...

-Aaron "has a horrible fake English accent" Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wednesday, October 23, 2013, Michael wrote:

> Thanks Joe for letting me know.
>>
> Sorry you have to pay sales tax. But the good thing about living there is
> the lack of winter you all have there. Though it was colder in the SF area
> today than here in central MD.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New York Times debate on Rules of the Road

[Peter Morgano]

Living and riding in nyc there is a vocal minority of Bicycle haters who
want everyone to think there is some two wheeled menace about. Most people
are growing to accept that shared roadways are here to stay but there will
always be morons who think that sharing means losing something.
On Oct 24, 2013 2:36 PM, "Rick"  wrote:

> A lot of blow back from the haters there, but Grant did not pull any
>> punches.  The most common criticisms of the Idaho Stop suggestion pretend
>> it means baldly ignoring traffic and signs, and then point out how
>> dangerous that is.  When done properly, it makes it better for everybody.
>>
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[RBW] Re: New York Times debate on Rules of the Road

[Rick]

>
> A lot of blow back from the haters there, but Grant did not pull any 
> punches.  The most common criticisms of the Idaho Stop suggestion pretend 
> it means baldly ignoring traffic and signs, and then point out how 
> dangerous that is.  When done properly, it makes it better for everybody.
>

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[RBW] Re: Chain stay kickstand sandwiches- do you like yours.

[dougP]

Functionally I like it; visually not so much.

Rivendell sold the kickstand mounting plate as a loose part for retrofit.  
I attached that to the fender bridge, then mounted the kickstand with the 
guard.  The bottom of the stand contacts the mounting plate, as it would 
were the plate welded on.  The guard protects the top of the stays.  I'd 
had trouble with the kickstand rotating & the mounting plate solved that as 
it is formed at the edges to locate the kickstand.  This was all temporary 
pending getting around to having the plate welded on.  Been several years 
now with no problems.  I must admit it's a bit clunky looking with all that 
hardware.  Oh, and I used a long bolt with a nylok nut even though the 
kickstand itself is threaded.  

dougP

On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 10:30:09 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> Tell me how you like yours.
>
> I just bought a sandwich.
> But, the plastic guard pieces don't match the curve of my Bleriot stays. 
> Also, the sandwich only comes with guards for the top of the stays. No 
> guards for the bottom side. I knew that when I bought it. But I guess I 
> didn't really understand until I got it.
>
> Since I'll have to bar tape the stays to protect the bottom, I figure I'll 
> just not use the sandwich and go for the sleeker look of just taping the 
> stays and then clamping the kickstand on over the tape. My stays are 
> scratched and crushed anyway by the previous owner mounting his double 
> legger on the bare stays of the bike.
> I figure I don't want to add to the problem though.
>
> I'll hopefully do some twining and shellacking before clamping. That will 
> be fun and make it look nice.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[NickBull]

While you're at it, you could solve your dynamo wheel problem with:
http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement__front_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_dynamo__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7273.php

I've had good luck buying the Quality wheels and then going through and 
doing the final tensioning, stress-relieving, trueing myself at home.  
Think of it as buying the parts, conveniently assembled into a wheel that 
has been mostly completed, and you just have to take it the final step.  
Even if you have to pay someone else to do that final step, it's almost 
certainly still cheaper than having a wheel built from scratch.

As to cheapo parts.  Like you, I can't afford to spend too much money on 
parts.  But I usually try to go for Shimano 105 / Deore type quality, which 
seems to be usually the optimal compromise between "good enough" and "not 
too expensive".  My experience with cheaper parts, e.g. Shimano Soros, was 
disappointing.  Maybe take a look on EBay and you can find new old stock 
that'll save some cash but that you don't have to worry someone crashed it 
and they're hiding the damage.

You're going to be riding this bike a lot of miles, both in training for 
PBP and on PBP itself, and hopefully for many miles after, so think in 
terms of cost per mile.  The last thing you want is to spend $2000 on 
airfare, hotels, etc for PBP and then end up sitting in the middle of 
France, unable to proceed because your $25 derailleur broke at 3am in the 
rain and you can't fix it well enough to get to the next control.

Nick

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:14:08 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.
>
> I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am trying to 
> do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow money on bike 
> parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore.
>
> I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even though 
> the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is that the 
> parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8 speed Shimano 
> compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits are not reasonably 
> priced and in the amount of riding I'll do preparing for PBP I will 
> probably wear out at least some of them.
>
> But how low is too low to go?  Is there anything functionally deficient 
> about the new Shimano Claris group for example?  My requirements are that 
> the parts work well, and that they look nice on a Rivendell in keeping with 
> the general aesthetics of the bike.  
>
> In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite 
> polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for around $75.  
> Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25.  The Claris long cage rear 
> derailer also looks nice and goes for around $25 or so plus is rated for 
> 32T.  A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is about $15 online and is nickle plated 
> so looks nice.
>
> Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also looks very 
> nice but costs $88.  It also can handle 36T which admittedly is nice but I 
> am fine with the gears I have now, which are 50-38-26 in the front and 
> 13-26 in the back.  If I really need the Deore to get the job done in 
> France so be it, but I'd rather not pay $88 for what I can do for $25.  
>
> Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am planning 
> on friction shifting.  :0
>
> Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it being 
> machine built?  I can't build it myself for this cheap:
>
> http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement_rim_brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7429.php
>
> LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me.  I wish it 
> were 36H but the bike currently has 32H on it and it's been fine for many 
> miles of brevet riding.
>
> Well anyway, I'll stop rambling now.  Thanks for all the great input 
> everyone.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Tim Gavin 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> The math works thus:
>> 700C diameter is 622
>> 650B diameter is 584
>> difference of 38mm
>> half of that is19mm
>>
>> the 650B wheel drops the entire bicycle 19mm.  
>>
>> Then subtract the difference in tire size.
>> 650B tire is 38mm
>> 700C tire is 32mm
>> difference is 6mm
>>
>> Hence the 13mm, because the 6mm bigger 650B tire will raise it back up a 
>> smidge from the 19mm drop.  13mm BB drop means a bit more likely to scrape 
>> a pedal, and a bit less clearance under the chain ring when mounting 
>> obstacles.
>>
>> The vertical clearance gained is 13mm, because the tire height does 
>> matter there.  13mm = plenty of room for fenders.
>>
>> The difference in brake reach is 19mm, because the brakes don't care 
>> about the tire height.  49 + 19 = 68mm brake reach.  The 55 to 73mm range 
>> of the Tektro R559/Silver brakes make them perfect for this, an

Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Jim - 

Probably better to pose that gearing/drivetrain question as a separate 
thread. A lot of folks dip into conversations based on the title. 

One thing I didn't see mentioned was possibly changing your brakes but 
staying with the 622 (700C) wheelsize.  From your description, the tire is 
hitting the brake itself (and just on the rear?).  It's quite possible that 
simply going to a longer-armed brake with a better curve in the arms could 
gain both height for larger tires and width to clear a fender. A centerpull 
might work fine, and you could probably find a DiaCompe or similar quality 
with the dimensions to check it out. At the time time your bike was built, 
there probably was simply not the selection of brakes with longer reach.  
You may have more room to work with than is indicated.

As far as drivetrain goes - 
- Swapping from Campy to Shimano means you at least have to change the 
freehub when you buy new rear spockets, and depending on the hub, that may 
not be possible.  Therefore a new hub or wheel.
- If you are _really_ going to use friction shifting, then it doesn't 
matter what gear range or manufacturer's sprockets you use.  You can hang 
the cheapest compatible sprockets onto the freehub.
- You are unlikely to wear out a rear derailleur unless you are 
cross-chaining, running high chain tension and continually applying 
excessive torque to the der. body.  Especially in a friction shifting 
environment, where you can compensate for a little bit of derailleur slop 
with the shifters. 
- You'll burn many, many more sprockets and chains than you will 
derailleurs. 

Hope that helps,

- Jim / cyclofiend.com


On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:14:08 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.
>
> I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am trying to 
> do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow money on bike 
> parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore.
>
> I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even though 
> the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is that the 
> parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8 speed Shimano 
> compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits are not reasonably 
> priced and in the amount of riding I'll do preparing for PBP I will 
> probably wear out at least some of them.
>
> But how low is too low to go?  Is there anything functionally deficient 
> about the new Shimano Claris group for example?  My requirements are that 
> the parts work well, and that they look nice on a Rivendell in keeping with 
> the general aesthetics of the bike.  
>
> In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite 
> polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for around $75.  
> Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25.  The Claris long cage rear 
> derailer also looks nice and goes for around $25 or so plus is rated for 
> 32T.  A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is about $15 online and is nickle plated 
> so looks nice.
>
> Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also looks very 
> nice but costs $88.  It also can handle 36T which admittedly is nice but I 
> am fine with the gears I have now, which are 50-38-26 in the front and 
> 13-26 in the back.  If I really need the Deore to get the job done in 
> France so be it, but I'd rather not pay $88 for what I can do for $25.  
>
> Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am planning 
> on friction shifting.  :0
>
> Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it being 
> machine built?  I can't build it myself for this cheap:
>
> http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement_rim_brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7429.php
>
> LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me.  I wish it 
> were 36H but the bike currently has 32H on it and it's been fine for many 
> miles of brevet riding.
>
> Well anyway, I'll stop rambling now.  Thanks for all the great input 
> everyone.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Tim Gavin 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> The math works thus:
>> 700C diameter is 622
>> 650B diameter is 584
>> difference of 38mm
>> half of that is19mm
>>
>> the 650B wheel drops the entire bicycle 19mm.  
>>
>> Then subtract the difference in tire size.
>> 650B tire is 38mm
>> 700C tire is 32mm
>> difference is 6mm
>>
>> Hence the 13mm, because the 6mm bigger 650B tire will raise it back up a 
>> smidge from the 19mm drop.  13mm BB drop means a bit more likely to scrape 
>> a pedal, and a bit less clearance under the chain ring when mounting 
>> obstacles.
>>
>> The vertical clearance gained is 13mm, because the tire height does 
>> matter there.  13mm = plenty of room for fenders.
>>
>> The difference in brake reach is 19mm, because the brakes don't care 
>> about the tire height.  49 + 19 = 68mm brake rea

Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[NickBull]

Here is a link to a website with some relevant discussion of 650B tire size:
http://gearinches.com/blog/internet-goodies/650b-tire-diameter

in turn that has a link to a spreadsheet with some actual tire measurements:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhJ3Eg2EndMUcFpsLUVBTm5XWWk3aGlEVXZfS2pvTHc&hl=en#gid=0

On Velocity Synergy rimes: Hetre's are 670mm OD; Pari-Moto's are 669mm OD; 
SOMA B-Line's are 656mm OD; Cypres 650Bx322 are 653mm OD.

Has anyone measured OD of 700C tires that they could post for comparison?

Nick

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 9:29:20 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I may have proved empirically your rule of thumb. Can others chime in? I 
> didn't know that the width difference always equals the diameter difference.
>
> Had I done the math for the first example correctly, I'd have caught on 
> earlier. But still wonder if this is consistently true.
>
> As to narrower = higher, I've read that and seem to remember that I've 
> measured it, too. Must re-measure. Stretching the tire wider means that 
> there is less to go higher, but to rely on this would be to violate my own 
> "be empirical" maxim.
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 9:53 PM, Bill Lindsay 
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Patrick, buddy.  You'd be completely right except for a few small errors:
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:03:52 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> The problem with this analysis is that the tire calculation is based on 
>>> width, not height. Height is also very much affected by rim width: a 
>>> narrower rim will give you a taller but narrower tire.
>>>
>>> That's false.  Give one example you've measured where the same tire is 
>> taller on a narrower rim.  It's just not the case.  
>>  
>>
>>>  FWIW, a 22 mm 559 tire measures just about 24" in diameter while a 
>>> true 35 mm one is about 25", very narrow rim, 
>>>
>>
>> A 35mm tire "should be" 13mm larger in RADIUS, and 26mm larger in 
>> diameter.  You measure 1" difference in diameter.  26mm vs 25.4mm.  I'd 
>> call that perfect agreement.
>>  
>>
>>> although 25-22 = only 3. 
>>>
>>
>> That's your typo.  You meant to type 35-22 = 13
>>  
>>
>>> Likewise, on the same very wide rim, the 55 mm (measured; labeled 50) 
>>> Furious Fred is 28.5" while the 61 mm (labeled 60) Big Apple Liteskin is 
>>> 20.25"
>>>
>>
>> your typo, you meant to type that the Big Apple Liteskin is 29.25"
>>  
>>
>>>  in diameter: 3/4" overall while the 60-50 route gives you 10 mm. 
>>>
>>> 3/4" in DIAMETER is 19mm, or 9.5mm in RADIUS.  60 - 50 is 10mm in 
>> radius.  Again, perfect agreement.
>>  
>>
>>> Best to get empirical measurements. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>   -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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>
>
>
> -- 
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>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Dynamic 626 seatpost Crystal Fellow $70 shipped US

[Rod C]

Hello,

I'm selling this like new Nitto seatpost.  27.2 x 300mm

You can see it's currently mounted.  I'm going back to a different post 
with more setback than this one.

*$70 shipped US.*

Respond here and we can work out a Paypal transaction.

Thanks.







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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Jim Bronson]

Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.

I have another question along the same vein for the group.  I am trying to
do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just blow money on bike
parts that sound cool on some Internet forum anymore.

I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even though
the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus.  Reason being is that the
parts are very, very reasonably priced.  Rivendell sells 8 speed Shimano
compatible cassettes for $30, for example.  Campy bits are not reasonably
priced and in the amount of riding I'll do preparing for PBP I will
probably wear out at least some of them.

But how low is too low to go?  Is there anything functionally deficient
about the new Shimano Claris group for example?  My requirements are that
the parts work well, and that they look nice on a Rivendell in keeping with
the general aesthetics of the bike.

In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite
polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for around $75.
Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25.  The Claris long cage rear
derailer also looks nice and goes for around $25 or so plus is rated for
32T.  A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is about $15 online and is nickle plated
so looks nice.

Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also looks very
nice but costs $88.  It also can handle 36T which admittedly is nice but I
am fine with the gears I have now, which are 50-38-26 in the front and
13-26 in the back.  If I really need the Deore to get the job done in
France so be it, but I'd rather not pay $88 for what I can do for $25.

Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am planning
on friction shifting.  :0

Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it being
machine built?  I can't build it myself for this cheap:
http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement_rim_brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7429.php

LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me.  I wish it
were 36H but the bike currently has 32H on it and it's been fine for many
miles of brevet riding.

Well anyway, I'll stop rambling now.  Thanks for all the great input
everyone.

Jim




On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Tim Gavin
wrote:

> The math works thus:
> 700C diameter is 622
> 650B diameter is 584
> difference of 38mm
> half of that is19mm
>
> the 650B wheel drops the entire bicycle 19mm.
>
> Then subtract the difference in tire size.
> 650B tire is 38mm
> 700C tire is 32mm
> difference is 6mm
>
> Hence the 13mm, because the 6mm bigger 650B tire will raise it back up a
> smidge from the 19mm drop.  13mm BB drop means a bit more likely to scrape
> a pedal, and a bit less clearance under the chain ring when mounting
> obstacles.
>
> The vertical clearance gained is 13mm, because the tire height does matter
> there.  13mm = plenty of room for fenders.
>
> The difference in brake reach is 19mm, because the brakes don't care about
> the tire height.  49 + 19 = 68mm brake reach.  The 55 to 73mm range of the
> Tektro R559/Silver brakes make them perfect for this, and I'm pleased with
> their performance.  I put Kool-stop pads in mine, though.
>
> Feel free to call Rivendell to ask.  I did.  They told me to mind the BB
> drop, since my early Road Standard has a low BB to begin with.  That's all
> they said.  But they're very nice folks out there, and won't mind telling
> you the same.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:56 PM, Michael  wrote:
>
>> The R559's are easier to set up and adjust, in my experience.
>>>
>>
>> But remember to run it by the folks at Rivendell, there may be issues we
>> don't think of or know about.
>>
>> --
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>
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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Sackville Slickersack/Nitto Platrack

[Coconutbill]

I purchased the Platrack / Slickersack from Jim a few months back.

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[RBW] Re: New York Times debate on Rules of the Road

[EGNolan]

I definietly think that the infrastructure should protect and make everyone 
feel comfortable riding. That could be a young, fit, not-so daring male 
or a woman or even children riding to school. There were some good ideas & 
considerations on how to do this. I'd love to see more of these ideas 
adopted. Here in Indianapolis we've been fortunate to get about a billion 
miles of bike lanes, but traveling w/ cars going 45-55 mph on some of our 
one way streets scares my wife & definitely keeps me from allowing my kids 
from riding on their own. We're better off now, but there's much further to 
go.
 
Best,
Eric 
Indpls
On Thursday, October 24, 2013 7:10:49 AM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:

> I like that they took care to include so many women in this debate. I've 
> read recently that making women feel safer and designing bike 
> infrastructure that accommodates the kind of multi-stop trips that women 
> tend to make in our daily lives is the key to making city cycling work. 
> Here in Vancouver, a lot of legacy bike infrastructure is designed with the 
> young, fit, daring male rider in mind, although that's changing with some 
> upgrades. 
>
>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Advice on choosing a warm coat. Slight topic drift.

[jimD]

+1 on the marmot dry clime
-JimD
On Oct 22, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Zack  wrote:

> if it is specific to riding (i.e. you are planning on wearing it while you 
> ride!) i have a marmot dri clime jacket that is awesome.  it is my go-to cold 
> weather jacket.  i wore mine all through vermont winters.  the key is that it 
> blocks the wind.  it's almost like magic.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion dilemmas - Riv with short reach brakes

[Patrick Moore]

I may have proved empirically your rule of thumb. Can others chime in? I
didn't know that the width difference always equals the diameter difference.

Had I done the math for the first example correctly, I'd have caught on
earlier. But still wonder if this is consistently true.

As to narrower = higher, I've read that and seem to remember that I've
measured it, too. Must re-measure. Stretching the tire wider means that
there is less to go higher, but to rely on this would be to violate my own
"be empirical" maxim.




On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 9:53 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

>
>
> Patrick, buddy.  You'd be completely right except for a few small errors:
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:03:52 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> The problem with this analysis is that the tire calculation is based on
>> width, not height. Height is also very much affected by rim width: a
>> narrower rim will give you a taller but narrower tire.
>>
>> That's false.  Give one example you've measured where the same tire is
> taller on a narrower rim.  It's just not the case.
>
>
>> FWIW, a 22 mm 559 tire measures just about 24" in diameter while a true
>> 35 mm one is about 25", very narrow rim,
>>
>
> A 35mm tire "should be" 13mm larger in RADIUS, and 26mm larger in
> diameter.  You measure 1" difference in diameter.  26mm vs 25.4mm.  I'd
> call that perfect agreement.
>
>
>> although 25-22 = only 3.
>>
>
> That's your typo.  You meant to type 35-22 = 13
>
>
>> Likewise, on the same very wide rim, the 55 mm (measured; labeled 50)
>> Furious Fred is 28.5" while the 61 mm (labeled 60) Big Apple Liteskin is
>> 20.25"
>>
>
> your typo, you meant to type that the Big Apple Liteskin is 29.25"
>
>
>> in diameter: 3/4" overall while the 60-50 route gives you 10 mm.
>>
>> 3/4" in DIAMETER is 19mm, or 9.5mm in RADIUS.  60 - 50 is 10mm in radius.
>  Again, perfect agreement.
>
>
>> Best to get empirical measurements.
>>
>>
>>
>>   --
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Albuquerque, NM

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RE: [RBW] Tuesday Night Ride

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Great report, Andy - inspirational.  Gotta get a group started in lil' ol' 
Delaware.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ascpgh
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 9:46 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Tuesday Night Ride

The stalwarts gathered at the coffee shop for another nighttime adventure in 
the city. We finished our coffees and headed out on another urban adventure 
ride in the city. Our targets were the paths by the rivers, the confluence and 
the points of interest in the city along these.

We rode through Shadyside and Oakland, down to the Monongahela river and the 
Jail Trail, passing through "The Run" at the end of Panther Hollow. Little 
known as the childhood home of the president of the Boston Red Sox and the 
coach of the Green Bay Packers. Over the Hot Metal Bridge to the South Side 
trail and a pit stop at REI. The Hoffbrauhaus PIttsburgh is caddy-corner. The 
trail leads through a seemingly wild but narrow strip of land along the river 
and increasing sights to see as we closed in on the downtown lights. Shocking 
sums of runners and walkers out in full black or dark clothes, virtually 
invisible to us with our bike lights until almost upon them.

We moved cautiously through the most "multi-" portion of the SouthSide MUP 
where it goes through Station Square, named as it was the terminal for a 
passenger-only rail line to NYC and Philly. Now a service and entertainment 
area, the restaurant in the terminal is breathtaking and the diner a t window 
tables track us as we pass. We continue under the interstate bridge that 
famously pops out of Mount Washington's face, onto a bridge and over to the 
downtown point. As we get just a bit beyond it and take to the sidewalk heading 
back that way, we are entering a pedestrian ramp on the side of the interstate, 
on the bridge over the Monongahela River, across to Point State Park.

We ride through the park to the Point and the illuminated fountain with the 
face of Mt. Washington and its incline railway marked by lights. We are 
surprised by the number of groups from three to eight who are out riding the 
city under light as well. We head up the Allegheny River with our minds on the 
water feature beneath the David L. Lawrence Convention Center, one of the early 
large LEED-certified facilities in the U.S. We had to dodge and bodge our route 
as the riverside trail was blocked and detoured by a work barge moored 
alongside the trail. We rode streetside along the city ends of the "three 
sisters" bridges, 6th, 7th and 9th streets now known as the Roberto Clemente, 
the Rachel Carson and the Andy Warhol bridges that reach onto the North Side 
from PNC Park to the Andy Warhol Museum. Entering the street through the center 
of the convention center then hopping onto the sidewalk in the middle of the 
separated lanes we were treated to the light show of illuminated falling water 
on the increasingly tall walls as we descended to the river from Penn Avenue, 
bother in the bright sound and purple lights. once at the bottom, it took a 
much more interesting appearance and I had to get a couple shots.

We rode back up the path, right on Penn Avenue through the Cultural District 
and the crowds gathered at events in several venues. At Gateway Center, home of 
the nation's first radio station, KDKA,
we crossed Liberty and entered the PPG campus which is always a mighty sight. 
The ice rink was being laid out and everything was a bit dark for it so we 
crossed into Market Square and took in the sights and smells of the wide 
vernacular of restaurants doing a boom trade. It was getting chilly so we beat 
an exit from downtown via Smallman street through the Strip District and 28th 
Street which gave us a rare climb that evening, up into the neighborhood of 
Polish Hill and by their remarkable cathedral. We also passed their comic book 
shop, coffee shop and neon-marked live music venue as we moved towards our 
quiet back street with a view across "Skunk Hollow", meeting the lights of the 
city as we crossed Baum boulevard and headed back to our start down Center 
avenue to Highland Avenue and our quieter origin of the evening in Highland 
Park where we habituated ourselves to a post ride beverage and food.

A repeat experience on a different route, a ride for the fun of it in the place 
where we are but spending some effort to see some of the things not always 
noticed. Certainly not from a car! Pictures prove it happened:

https://plus.google.com/photos/109160474815391208206/albums/5938115680192609921?authkey=CMWC3PT6y5iOQQ

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
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[RBW] Re: Chain stay kickstand sandwiches- do you like yours.

[Ron Mc]

I used strips of closed-cell foam, top and bottom - it fully compresses in 
the sandwich, but works great and provides reasonable protection.  

On Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:30:09 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>
> Tell me how you like yours.
>
> I just bought a sandwich.
> But, the plastic guard pieces don't match the curve of my Bleriot stays. 
> Also, the sandwich only comes with guards for the top of the stays. No 
> guards for the bottom side. I knew that when I bought it. But I guess I 
> didn't really understand until I got it.
>
> Since I'll have to bar tape the stays to protect the bottom, I figure I'll 
> just not use the sandwich and go for the sleeker look of just taping the 
> stays and then clamping the kickstand on over the tape. My stays are 
> scratched and crushed anyway by the previous owner mounting his double 
> legger on the bare stays of the bike.
> I figure I don't want to add to the problem though.
>
> I'll hopefully do some twining and shellacking before clamping. That will 
> be fun and make it look nice.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New York Times debate on Rules of the Road

[Cecily Walker]

I like that they took care to include so many women in this debate. I've 
read recently that making women feel safer and designing bike 
infrastructure that accommodates the kind of multi-stop trips that women 
tend to make in our daily lives is the key to making city cycling work. 
Here in Vancouver, a lot of legacy bike infrastructure is designed with the 
young, fit, daring male rider in mind, although that's changing with some 
upgrades. 



On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 6:15:08 PM UTC-7, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned in another thread, but 
> list members may be interested in a section posted in the New York Times 
> debating Rules of the Road. Grant Petersen is among the debaters.
>
> While I agree with his general proposition that making driving more 
> inconvenient could help the cause of bicycle commuting, I'm not so 
> convinced on some of the particulars. I am quite in favor, however, of The 
> Idaho Stop he mentions.
>
>
> http://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2013/10/21/cyclists-drivers-and-the-rules-of-the-road?hp
>
> Aaron
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sugino XD2 triple

[Joe Bernard]

Oops. 170. Thanks!

On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 10:41:10 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Joe-my-man,
>
> Tell your buyer what crankarm length they are buying from you.  
>
> kind regards
>
> Bill
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 10:29:20 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Used-but-nice. 24-36-46. $85 shipped. I may have a BB around here 
>> somewhere for another 20 bucks. Please email or text for pics.
>>  
>> Joe Bernard 415-786-4623
>> Vallejo, CA.
>>
>

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