Re: [RBW] Re: Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[cyclotourist]

Nice, thoughtful post, René. If I can interject my opinion (it is the
internet), I would say don't sell any more bikes!
You have a great 1, 2, 3 combination right now... seems just perfect!

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:24 PM, René Sterental  wrote:

> Sorry John, I didn't take any photos before taping it.
>
> I don't know if I can articulate the differences between the C17 vs. B17
> and Berthoud touring saddle. I have both versions of the C17, with and
> without the cutout and I find them pretty much the same. Perhaps the one
> with the cutout is slightly more comfortable. My guess is that the material
> has the right combination of hardness, rigidity and flexibility for me. The
> fact that its top is flatter than the B17 is a plus for me, but then the
> Berthoud is flat and it still hurt after a bit on the saddle. BTW, I found
> the Berthoud preferable to the B17, but man, perhaps I didn't ride them
> long enough to break the leather in, after about 15-20 minutes, my seat
> bones would hurt and eventually the pain would kill the pleasure of the
> ride.
>
> With the C17, I've been comfortable right from the start of the ride and
> when not having ridden in a while, I can feel my seat bones and butt get
> sore, but after one or two 30 minute rides I'm conditioned again and while
> definitely feeling like a firm saddle, everything is superbly comfortable.
> I definitely recommend it.
>
> Wallingford Bikes (www.wallbike.com) offers a six month unconditional
> guarantee if you purchase from them, so if you don't find it good for you,
> he'll take it back.
>
> René
>
> René
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:13 PM, John Hawrylak 
> wrote:
>
>> I enjoyed the detailed report and am glad things are working out for you
>> & the AHH.
>>
>> Do you have a picture of the Compass handlebars mounted and rotated
>> without the bar tape?
>>
>> What differences/advantages do you find that makes the C-17 better than
>> other saddles you tried?
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>>
>>>
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>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[René Sterental]

Sorry John, I didn't take any photos before taping it.

I don't know if I can articulate the differences between the C17 vs. B17
and Berthoud touring saddle. I have both versions of the C17, with and
without the cutout and I find them pretty much the same. Perhaps the one
with the cutout is slightly more comfortable. My guess is that the material
has the right combination of hardness, rigidity and flexibility for me. The
fact that its top is flatter than the B17 is a plus for me, but then the
Berthoud is flat and it still hurt after a bit on the saddle. BTW, I found
the Berthoud preferable to the B17, but man, perhaps I didn't ride them
long enough to break the leather in, after about 15-20 minutes, my seat
bones would hurt and eventually the pain would kill the pleasure of the
ride.

With the C17, I've been comfortable right from the start of the ride and
when not having ridden in a while, I can feel my seat bones and butt get
sore, but after one or two 30 minute rides I'm conditioned again and while
definitely feeling like a firm saddle, everything is superbly comfortable.
I definitely recommend it.

Wallingford Bikes (www.wallbike.com) offers a six month unconditional
guarantee if you purchase from them, so if you don't find it good for you,
he'll take it back.

René

René

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:13 PM, John Hawrylak 
wrote:

> I enjoyed the detailed report and am glad things are working out for you &
> the AHH.
>
> Do you have a picture of the Compass handlebars mounted and rotated
> without the bar tape?
>
> What differences/advantages do you find that makes the C-17 better than
> other saddles you tried?
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[John Hawrylak]

I enjoyed the detailed report and am glad things are working out for you & 
the AHH.

Do you have a picture of the Compass handlebars mounted and rotated without 
the bar tape?

What differences/advantages do you find that makes the C-17 better than 
other saddles you tried?

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ


>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[René Sterental]

Thank you Erl.

Edwin, that's not a bad idea to consider. I may give it a try.

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:38 PM, WETH  wrote:

> Rene,
> I enjoyed reading about the evolution of your bikes as well as your
> progress toward your fitness goals. Well done!  Your Homer is beautiful!
> All the best,
> Erl
>
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[RBW] Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[WETH]

Rene,
I enjoyed reading about the evolution of your bikes as well as your progress 
toward your fitness goals. Well done!  Your Homer is beautiful!
All the best,
Erl

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[RBW] Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[Edwin W]

One little aesthetic change I made recently (sorry no photos) was that I put my 
computer on the top tube. I like the look of the stem - even a lil' feller like 
your 5 cm is so much better naked!

Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Rear derailer on my Hillborne

[René Sterental]

Those rear derailers, and even the 9 speed XT 772 no longer have the barrel
adjuster since the mountain shifters have them. When using bar end
shifters, you can insert some 3rd party cable barrel adjusters in the
housing between the handlebar and the down tube mounts, but if you're
running downtube shifters, you need to get a barrel adjuster that can fit
where the cable goes into the rear derailer. RBW used to sell them, but I
can't find them on their site anymore and I haven't been able to see who
else might sell them. I bough them for my XT 772s, which required some
filing so they'd fit but they work perfectly (I'm using down tube shifters
on all my bikes now).

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 7:51 PM, Surlyprof  wrote:

> Thanks, Bill.  Jon Dukeman had a similar suggestion.  It looks pretty
> close and sounds smooth.  I think I'll ride it a while until I can get it
> to a shop to align it properly.  Now I know tool to ask if they have for a
> precision alignment.
>
> Jim, I didn't realize it didn't have a barrel adjuster until I got it
> home.  Trusting that Shimano knew what they were doing, I installed it
> using this .pdf as a reference since it was so different than what I was
> used to (
> http://www.bikebrothers.no/files/files/Manualer/14_Shadow_RD_Tips.pdf).
> Went on quite easily and adjustments were handled entirely with the
> b-tension screw and high- and low-gain screws.  It'll be interesting to see
> how that goes long-term as cables stretch further.
>
> John
>
>
> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 2:47:43 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> " I am wondering if there is a way of checking to make sure if the hanger
>> is aligned properly.  I don't want to cause any extra wear if it's still
>> slightly twisted.  Any tips on how to check this or to align it properly?"
>>
>> Eyeball it.  Get your face behind the rear derailer and down low.  Are
>> both pulleys in-plane with the plane of the cog that the chain is on?  Is
>> the imaginary line connecting the two pulleys in-plane with that same cog?
>> If yes, don't sweat it.
>>
>> If it looks way out of plane in any direction, let a good shop check it
>> out.  A good shop will have a tool like this:
>>
>> http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2-2
>>
>> They will use that to make sure your derailer hanger is in-plane with the
>> entire rear wheel.  They'll use that same tool to bend it straight, if
>> necessary.  Very few home mechanics invest in this tool.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 2:40:15 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>>>
>>> Grant's incident was different than mine.  I had noticed a clicking
>>> noise recently, particulary during hard pedal strokes.  Turned out that a
>>> link of the chain was coming loose and when it broke open, it hooked the
>>> derailleur and twisted it up nicely.  Lesson learned... check the chain
>>> more often as part of my regular maintenance routine.  I'm just glad the
>>> derailleur hanger wasn't twisted beyond my own repair capabilities.  Had
>>> this been an aluminum bike, I'm sure it would have cracked.  If not when it
>>> happened, surely when I tried to bend it back.  I don't even want to think
>>> what would have happened had it been carbon fiber.
>>>
>>> Everything seems to be running smoothly since the repair.  I am
>>> wondering if there is a way of checking to make sure if the hanger is
>>> aligned properly.  I don't want to cause any extra wear if it's still
>>> slightly twisted.  Any tips on how to check this or to align it properly?
>>>
>>> Thanks again everyone.
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:32:32 PM UTC-8, BenG wrote:

 I found Grant's incident interesting because I did the same thing - not
 enough chain for big-big combo, and it locked me up. My case was 54-34
 combo on '72 Schwinn Sports Tourer, which I tried to hit after flying fast
 down a valley and up the other side, fogetting to drop to the 30 ring. In
 my case, though, that '72 Schwinn derailer (actually an early Shimano long
 cage) was up to the challenge, and just froze its idler.  Or maybe I can't
 put down the torque like GP.  Whatever, I learned to put an extra link in
 that one.
>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] Re: Removing shellac on paint

[murphyjrfk]

Denatured alcohol works a wonder.

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[RBW] Bike quiver update focusing on my A. Homer Hilsen

[René Sterental]

One of the benefits of downsizing in both number of bikes and body weight,
is that you can refocus on the bikes you have, while deciding what to do
next about the total number of bikes and other stuff one accumulates.

The Hunqapillar is in transit to its new home in the East Coast, and the
Atlantis is getting some rack updates as my only rightful loaded commuter
and camping bike. Post coming soon.

The Go Fast segment in my quiver is now being contested by the A. Homer
Hilsen and the Betty Foy.

Betty Foy, you ask? For me at this time, definitely yes! I love riding the
Betty with its 650b 38mm Compass Loup Loup Pass to have enough clearance
with the Berthoud fenders. I have it setup as a commuter/errand bike, but I
still find it fantastic to ride 20+ miles (which is the longest I'm riding
at this time in my return to cycling fitness) and can see myself having it
as my only bike if I was ever put on the spot. It's set up with the new
extended MAP handlebars from Ahearne Cycles that allow plenty of room for
the grips and the brake levers. It's an upright position, but I place my
hands on the bends when riding faster and needless to say, ride it pain
free. Need to post more detailed photos, but here is one of its current
configuration:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/22553128307/in/album-72157625115263842/

The Homer has been getting some love lately as well, and like the Betty, I
use it for my 20+ mile rides. The Homer always felt magical, and it was my
very first Rivendell which opened the door to the new riding philosophy
when I couldn't find a way to continue riding without extreme suffering my
"commercial road bikes". Still, I was conflicted because I couldn't ride it
pain free with drop bars feeling I was too extended, my hands and neck hurt
a lot from the position and rising the handlebars above saddle level didn't
help and/or felt very weird. Since I was so heavy @ 285 lbs shortly after
getting it, I just rode the heavy duty bikes primarily (Atlantis &
Hunqapillar) and the Homer just hung in my garage reminding me of painful
reminders.

As the time passed and I kept changing handlebars, saddles, pedals and
other details on my Atlantis & Hunqapillar in my effort to ride pain free
(and seriously concerned that I couldn't), I eventually broke through many
of my mental barriers and went from clipless pedals to flats and then wide
flats, moved away from drop bars on the Atlantis & Hunqa and tried all the
Riv (and other) upright rear swept bars making slow but positive progress
towards the pain free goal. The flat pedals allowed me to ride mostly foot
pain free, the Compass Elysee bars allowed me to ride hand and neck pain
free on the Atlantis, and since I couldn't find the same on the Hunqapillar
and wanted to downsize, I set it free to find a new owner. The Betty found
the same pain free configuration described above, so it was time to decide
the fate of the Homer.

For some stubborn reason, I always resisted putting back swept bars on the
Homer. In my mind, it was supposed to be my go-fast bike and as such, it
had to have drop bars. But I couldn't find a set of drop bars that I could
ride comfortably. I had the original Nitto Noodles in 48, tried the Nitto
Randonneur bars and was about to give up and put the same Elysee handlebars
I have on the Atlantis, when I discovered I could get a 5cm Nitto Technomix
stem from Ben Cycles in Milwaukee. I had previously tried the shortest
stems I could find from Riv, but they never had a 5cm stem so I didn't know
they existed. At the same time, Jan posted about the new Compass Randonneur
handlebars on his site and about how they are super comfortable and none of
the other "replicas" comes close. I decided to give it a try, and got a
42cm set that I installed on the 5cm stem with the corresponding shims (the
stem is 26.0 and the bars are 25.4). Installed a set of Shimano Ultegra
brakes that over time, I had found to me the most comfortable for me for
that type of handlebar with the long ramps, and mounted the cockpit on the
Homer. A few tweaks and a quick test ride later, I felt confident enough to
tape them with Brooks leather tape. This was my last attempt with drop bars
and there isn't a shorter stem to even try. I adjusted the rotation of the
bars per Jan's instructions so the top of the ramps are horizontal and
started riding it.

I had to cut short my first test ride after 35 minutes when one of the rear
spokes of my 32 spoked Open Pro/CK pre-Riv wheel set broke, but it was
enough to confirm that the position was fine and I didn't need to raise the
bars higher, and that I had no hand or neck pain at all. This wheel set (I
actually have two, the other one laced to a Power Hub - don't ask why) were
from my carbon road bike days, and I had kept them for the Homer even
though they were black. But now, I asked myself if I really needed a
lighter 32 spoked wheel set and decided to swap them for the 36 spoked Dyad
wheel set I was using on the Hunqapillar (same 

Re: [RBW] Rear derailer on my Hillborne

[Surlyprof]

Thanks, Bill.  Jon Dukeman had a similar suggestion.  It looks pretty close 
and sounds smooth.  I think I'll ride it a while until I can get it to a 
shop to align it properly.  Now I know tool to ask if they have for a 
precision alignment.

Jim, I didn't realize it didn't have a barrel adjuster until I got it home. 
 Trusting that Shimano knew what they were doing, I installed it using this 
.pdf as a reference since it was so different than what I was used to 
(http://www.bikebrothers.no/files/files/Manualer/14_Shadow_RD_Tips.pdf). 
 Went on quite easily and adjustments were handled entirely with the 
b-tension screw and high- and low-gain screws.  It'll be interesting to see 
how that goes long-term as cables stretch further.

John

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 2:47:43 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> " I am wondering if there is a way of checking to make sure if the hanger 
> is aligned properly.  I don't want to cause any extra wear if it's still 
> slightly twisted.  Any tips on how to check this or to align it properly?"
>
> Eyeball it.  Get your face behind the rear derailer and down low.  Are 
> both pulleys in-plane with the plane of the cog that the chain is on?  Is 
> the imaginary line connecting the two pulleys in-plane with that same cog? 
>  If yes, don't sweat it.  
>
> If it looks way out of plane in any direction, let a good shop check it 
> out.  A good shop will have a tool like this:
>
> http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2-2
>
> They will use that to make sure your derailer hanger is in-plane with the 
> entire rear wheel.  They'll use that same tool to bend it straight, if 
> necessary.  Very few home mechanics invest in this tool.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 2:40:15 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> Grant's incident was different than mine.  I had noticed a clicking noise 
>> recently, particulary during hard pedal strokes.  Turned out that a link of 
>> the chain was coming loose and when it broke open, it hooked the derailleur 
>> and twisted it up nicely.  Lesson learned... check the chain more often as 
>> part of my regular maintenance routine.  I'm just glad the derailleur 
>> hanger wasn't twisted beyond my own repair capabilities.  Had this been an 
>> aluminum bike, I'm sure it would have cracked.  If not when it happened, 
>> surely when I tried to bend it back.  I don't even want to think what would 
>> have happened had it been carbon fiber.
>>
>> Everything seems to be running smoothly since the repair.  I am wondering 
>> if there is a way of checking to make sure if the hanger is aligned 
>> properly.  I don't want to cause any extra wear if it's still slightly 
>> twisted.  Any tips on how to check this or to align it properly?
>>
>> Thanks again everyone.
>> John
>>
>> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:32:32 PM UTC-8, BenG wrote:
>>>
>>> I found Grant's incident interesting because I did the same thing - not 
>>> enough chain for big-big combo, and it locked me up. My case was 54-34 
>>> combo on '72 Schwinn Sports Tourer, which I tried to hit after flying fast 
>>> down a valley and up the other side, fogetting to drop to the 30 ring. In 
>>> my case, though, that '72 Schwinn derailer (actually an early Shimano long 
>>> cage) was up to the challenge, and just froze its idler.  Or maybe I can't 
>>> put down the torque like GP.  Whatever, I learned to put an extra link in 
>>> that one.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Santa Barbara Mini Tour Ride Report.

[Jack Doran]

Hugh,

I'm back in Northern California and haven't been back to the Central Coast 
since finishing school, but I'm thinking that's going to change after 
seeing your post!

Jack

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Re: [RBW] Re: Santa Barbara Mini Tour Ride Report.

[Jack Doran]

Drew,

I moved back to Northern California after school and haven't been back to 
the Central Coast since, but that might all change after seeing your post.

Jack

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Re: [RBW] Re: suspicious Cheviot on Bay Area CL

[cyclotourist]

Hooray!!! All's well that ends well!

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 11:27 AM, Dave  wrote:

>
> Will be picking it up tomorrow, can't wait!
> On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 6:13:49 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> Dave did you pick it up?
>>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[Daniel Jackson]

Get new rack hardware from riv that will allow you to attach rack to the 
hourglass just below canti studs. 

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[RBW] Re: Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[Jack Doran]

Thanks, John. That is indeed the solution. Nice to have the extra eyelets, 
and also nice to have struts that are so bendable.

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-8, John Phillips wrote:
>
> I used struts like these bolted to the mid-fork braze-ons of my 54cm 
> Hunqapillar:
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[Jack Doran]

Drew,

I just tested that with some struts from a different rack and yes, that is 
absolutely going to work. I guess it's one thing to have a bunch of fork 
braze-ons, and quite another to see their advantages.

Many, many thanks to you, Drew. You saved me a lot of hassle and probably 
some money, too.

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 6:18:57 PM UTC-8, drew wrote:
>
> could you use regular/longer struts and attach them to the mid-fork mounts 
> under the brakes?  
>

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[RBW] Re: Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[John Phillips]

I used struts like these bolted to the mid-fork braze-ons of my 54cm 
Hunqapillar:







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[RBW] Re: Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[drew]

could you use regular/longer struts and attach them to the mid-fork mounts 
under the brakes?  

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[RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

['velo59' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Paul Morningstar made FreeHub Soup for low temperature use in freehubs.  I 
wonder if anyone holds rights to his intellectual property.  If so, it 
would be nice to see someone restart production of this lube and other neat 
Morningstar tools.

If you don't know, Paul Morningstar was a tool maker in Bodfish, CA, who 
made tools to service and lubricate freehubs and brake rotors, along with 
FreeHub Soup.  He was killed when one of the booby traps he had installed 
on his property was activated.  He was a bit troubled by the government.

Jason Cloutier
Pawtucket, RI

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[RBW] Issue installing Nitto Campee 27F on a Hunqapillar 700c fork

[Jack Doran]

Hi all,

I have a very specific problem with components not playing nice. I am 
trying to get a Nitto Campee 27f front rack on my Hunqapillar, but I can't 
get the arms that bolt to the cantilever stays lined up to attach to the 
rack. Here's a photo that I hope illustrates the problem (sorry it's a 
little blurry):




What's supposed to happen is that the arms line up inside the rack and 
attach to those two plates by way of barrel eyebolt and concave spacer. 
Turning the brake boss connecters so that the arms are at 6 o'clock gets 
them inside the rack, but they are too low to connect to the plates on the 
rack. I saw a picture of another Hunq online with this rack and some pretty 
minimal Tektro brakes, and the arms are attached so that they're at 12 
o'clock. But I don't have that option because the brakes (Shimano cx-70) 
get in the way. 


So, if I want to keep this rack (and I do), it looks like my only option is 
to either get some different brakes or possibly find an angle saw to take 
to the plates on the boss connector, which is probably more trouble than 
it's worth. Unless anyone else with this very obscure, specific problem 
came up with a different solution. 


Thanks for reading.

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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Michael Hechmer]

This is a real mystery, Deacon.  So many people in our society suffer from 
such very high levels of anxiety that the pathological base has come to be 
labeled normal.  Most American's think their life would be better if only 
they were in some other place doing something else!  In the short run not 
much can be done to change that and the long run begins with refusing to 
buy into their delusion.  As for self protection, I start with trying to be 
visible at all times.  This can feel counter intuitive, compared to trying 
to stay out of the line of travel,  but, as you surely know, the driver who 
hits you will swear s/he never saw you, that "you came out of nowhere." 
 You are right to take the lane when necessary, and I would add, wear 
brightly colored clothing.  Of course the law in all states requires slow 
moving vehicles to stay as far to the right as reasonably possible.

When all is said and done, at 71, I would rather die on my bike than on the 
sofa watching reruns of Gilligan's Island!

39 degrees, 30 mph winds, and light rain in Vermont today, so not tempted 
to ride.

Michael


On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 2:22:25 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> On narrow mountain roads we take the lane, riding in the right tire track. 
> Thus, cars no longer run us off the road, but instead pass us after going 
> to the oncoming lane. That works great when there is clear sight line and 
> no oncoming traffic. Far too often, entitled drivers pass us anywhere, when 
> it is either a blind curve or there is clear oncoming traffic. This 
> happened 4 times this morning just getting out of our small mountain town 
> on y ride with our two eldest lassies. Four times oncoming traffic was 
> forced to stop and/or pull over for selfish drivers.
>
> Whenever I see this situation is about to happen, I try to signal the 
> driver coming up behind me (I always ride at the end of the bike line) by 
> putting my left hand out in the "Caution, slow" signal and if I hear them 
> still passing, I wave them back. This has caused a driver to slow down 
> exactly once out of countless times.
>
> Any ideas how to help the situation be smoother/better?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: Does a MacBook Air 13 in a protective sleeve fit inside the Sackville Hub Area Bag?

[René Sterental]

Thanks Patrick,

The numbers don't quite tell the whole story in the sense that while giving
a guideline, for tight fits there is a personal comfort variable that is
hard to assess unless one gives it a try.

I'm planning to stop by RBW on my way to Sacramento next Thursday and will
test it myself.

Best,

René

On Saturday, February 20, 2016, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Just going by the numbers:
>
> MacBook Air 13:
> Width: 12.8 inches (32.5 cm)
> Depth: 8.94 inches (22.7 cm)
>
> Hub area Bag:
> Dimensions are 12" x 10" x 5"
>
> So the question is, are you comfortable with the lid needing to make up
> for the .8" of computer sticking up?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:54:18 PM UTC-7, René wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking for a front pannier where my laptop would fit vertically, and
>> regular front panniers seem to be very small to carry it.
>>
>> Have you tried anything that works on a front lowrider rack?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> René
>>
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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[sameness]

*This *is* home of the bull bar.

Jeff "Such Is Life" Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[sameness]

When I lived in rural Australia, I quickly learned that farmers drive as 
fast as they can on (beautiful, idyllic, cycle-perfect) country roads. 

These are the roads that connect the properties they were born on and will 
likely die on, so navigating them almost blindfolded, at high speeds in 
full anticipation of all the twists and turns, was dialed in and committed 
to motor memory by the age of 13. 

The rationale for such speeds, above and beyond the sheer convenience of 
getting somewhere X amount faster, was that they wanted to make sure that 
anything they hit (in this case, kangaroos, wallabies, wombats and foxes) 
not only flew clear of the road, but died on impact. Farmer wouldn't have 
to think twice about pulling over and finishing it off in the name of 
mercy. Chuck a dirty tyre iron in the boot? Yeah, nah, mate. This home of 
the bull bar.

I thought I had perfected the art of offensive bike riding in LA, but this 
upped the ante by an exponent, esp. considering I almost never came across 
or even saw another bike rider on these roads. So if the farmers are not 
anticipating me, I really can't expect that they would know how to react to 
my presence without sticking to the script of "better X than me".

This is a long-winded way of stating that I can never trust an automobile 
driver to have my best intentions in mind. And while I would love to expend 
some of my energy and attention on courtesy, I simply find it more useful 
to pay attention to my surroundings and my personal well being, maintain a 
high level of situational awareness and bail out options, and hope that the 
odds are in my favor.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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Re: [RBW] Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Patrick Moore]

Patrick: I will be very interested to hear of others' solutions to this
dilemma. Frankly, my own solution, or so I think, would be to avoid riding
in such situations as much as I could; not a good answer.

Giving a fervid, and even fevered, imagination the reins, I imagine a new
Federal Law Enforcement Department staffed by men in black with
bug/evil/alien wraparound shades, and carbines with thick, heavily finned
barrels and laser sights, positioned on each such tight curve, aiming at
any motorist who is so impatient he can't wait 15 seconds until he can pass
safely.

More! Federal statute GY 777 X (i) 3: To strictly limit the (i) horsepower
and (ii) overall area occupied by vehicle at rest to a strictly
proportional ratio to an algorithm composed of the driver's IQ, age, number
of years driving, driving record, and habitual facial expression (though in
no case to exceed for horsepower the driver's age, if male and under the
age of 50). We might go back to the days when stronger riders on the
steeper hills would, in words I once read in a bike book "picked off the
slower automobiles."

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 12:22 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> On narrow mountain roads we take the lane, riding in the right tire track.
> Thus, cars no longer run us off the road, but instead pass us after going
> to the oncoming lane. That works great when there is clear sight line and
> no oncoming traffic. Far too often, entitled drivers pass us anywhere, when
> it is either a blind curve or there is clear oncoming traffic. This
> happened 4 times this morning just getting out of our small mountain town
> on y ride with our two eldest lassies. Four times oncoming traffic was
> forced to stop and/or pull over for selfish drivers.
>
> Whenever I see this situation is about to happen, I try to signal the
> driver coming up behind me (I always ride at the end of the bike line) by
> putting my left hand out in the "Caution, slow" signal and if I hear them
> still passing, I wave them back. This has caused a driver to slow down
> exactly once out of countless times.
>
> Any ideas how to help the situation be smoother/better?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] FS: 60cm Bombadil Complete

[Justin Schoop]

I have 29x2.1 smart same mounted and they have plenty of room. I would say 
there's another 5mm of clearance between the tire and the chain stays.

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[RBW] FS: 60cm Bombadil Complete

[Daniel Jackson]

What is max tire width on this one?

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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Garth]

   Imagine for a moment, you are on a like in a small paddle boat .  
Approaching you directly comes another small boat , just like yours , but 
there is no one steering it. You veer off to avoid it , but it moves with 
you, still approaching you directly.  You may yell, gesture, try to steer 
away again and again, but all of no avail. 

There is an impact , no real harm is done  you may find it an odd 
occurrence, maybe funny even.  You and the other boat now go your own way. 

No imagine this again, but there is a person in the other boat. The same 
thing is happening. The person is paying no attention to you on it's 
collision course.  As it approaches you may really yell and gesture this 
time to alret them, but they are simply in another world minding 
themselves.  Again the boats impact , no real harm is done. 

How do you react this time, seeing a person in the other boat not even 
conscious of you ?  
Do you hold them responsible for not being aware of you ?

Have you even been the "other boat" ? 


Yes ... you may well say, yes but this circumstance, yes but that 
circumstance .. but of what value are relative circumstances when the 
truth is the only matter ?  There was no one aware of you , who you appear 
to be.  

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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Garth]

   Imagine for a moment, you are on a like in a small paddle boat .  
Approaching you directly comes another small boat , just like yours , but 
there is no one steering it. You veer off to avoid it , but it moves with 
you, still approaching you directly.  You may yell, gesture, try to steer 
away again and again, but all of no avail. 

There is an impact , no real harm is done  you may find it an odd 
occurrence, maybe funny even.  You and the other boat now go your own way. 

No imagine this again, but there is a person in the other boat. The same 
thing is happening. The person is paying no attention to you on it's 
collision course.  As it approaches you may really yell and gesture this 
time to alret them, but they are simply in another world minding 
themselves.  Again the boats impact , no real harm is done. 

How do you react this time, seeing a person in the other boat not even 
conscious of you ?  
Do you hold them responsible for not being aware of you ?

Have you even been the "other boat" ? 


Yes ... you may well say, yes but this circumstance, yes but that 
circumstance .. but of what value are relative circumstances when the 
truth is the only matter ?  There was no one aware of you. 


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[RBW] Re: Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Howard. Yeah, I realize I'm seeking the cure to Stupid and a way to 
feed it to strangers as the pass by. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 2:27:36 PM UTC-7, Howard Hatten wrote:
>
> I don't know what to say but it's not just a country road thing

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[RBW] Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Howard Hatten]

Patrick ,
I wish I had an answer how to deal with drivers endangering bicyclists. I think 
some just resent us being on the roads and don't care how their actions might 
cause us harm. On the other hand I think not enough time is spent in new driver 
education on how to deal with bicyclists. I often take the lane on the city 
streets of my neighborhood to avoid parked cars and such. Many times I've been 
treated to horn beeps & finger salutes. 
I don't know what to say but it's not just a country road thing

Stay safe
Howard

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[RBW] Re: Does a MacBook Air 13 in a protective sleeve fit inside the Sackville Hub Area Bag?

[Deacon Patrick]

Just going by the numbers:

MacBook Air 13:
Width: 12.8 inches (32.5 cm)
Depth: 8.94 inches (22.7 cm)

Hub area Bag:
Dimensions are 12" x 10" x 5"

So the question is, are you comfortable with the lid needing to make up for 
the .8" of computer sticking up?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:54:18 PM UTC-7, René wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a front pannier where my laptop would fit vertically, and 
> regular front panniers seem to be very small to carry it. 
>
> Have you tried anything that works on a front lowrider rack?
>
> Thanks!
>
> René 
>

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[RBW] FS: 60cm Bombadil Complete

[Justin Schoop]

Willing to trade for a 61-63cm AHH.

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[Daniel Jackson]

So you're the one that pinched that very last Plus they found. I called too 
late for it. If you every want to move that framset along. I've got a 
Rohloff setup just itching for it. 

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 10:39:02 AM UTC-5, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> Seems like a fine price, but for a tall bike like this, you might have to 
> open yourself up to shipping it.
>
> I would be tempted, but I just blew my bike fund on a Jones Plus 
> .
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 2:03 AM, David Craig  > wrote:
>
>> Yep. Complete Hilsen. Great bike in excellent condition. Perhaps someone 
>> who has a bit more time and patience than me can resell for more $$. Right 
>> now, storage and reducing my possessions are priorities for me.
>>
>> I recently cleaned out a hoarder's home who was always holding on to 
>> things in order to "sell them for what they're worth." When she could no 
>> longer manage her own affairs, we ended up trashing or giving away many of 
>> those "treasures" just to cope with the monumental task of cleaning up the 
>> mess. I refuse to put my loved ones through the same situation.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 5:23:53 PM UTC-8, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>>
>>> That's a beauty! Man is some long legged rider gonna get a deal! $1300 
>>> for a complete Hilsen?? I'm surprised that hasn't sold @ $1500. If it was 
>>> my size I'd be on the road right now.
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:48:59 PM UTC-8, David Craig wrote:

 Hey, Folks.

 Haven't posted for quite awhile. I've been on a medically prompted 
 hiatus from cycling for the past couple of years. The wife and I will be 
 hitting the road in a couple of weeks for a year long sabbatical, and I've 
 decided to pass on my HH to somebody who might be able to use it rather 
 than store it.

 The bike is in great condition - pictured here: 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/albums/72157626013424216

 Couple of changes from the picture - the bike no longer has a leather 
 seat and it now sports a 7cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem instead of the 
 riser - otherwise, it's the same bike pictured.

 I can provide detailed photos and build info to interested buyers. I'm 
 looking for $1500.00 OBO for the entire bike. Quite a deal, but you'd need 
 to be able to pick the bike up in central California. I don't have the 
 time 
 to ship it. I'm located in the Gold County near Yosemite and I'd be 
 willing 
 to drive to a couple of hours from here to deliver the bike.

 I've sold several items to list members over the years, so I believe 
 I've got a good reputation as a straight shooter and honest guy. 

 Remember, please reply via a PM instead of through the list. I'll get 
 back to you ASAP.

 Dave

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[RBW] Re: suspicious Cheviot on Bay Area CL

[Dave]

Will be picking it up tomorrow, can't wait! 
On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 6:13:49 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Dave did you pick it up?
>

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[RBW] Tips for how to better handle Selfish Drivers?

[Deacon Patrick]

On narrow mountain roads we take the lane, riding in the right tire track. 
Thus, cars no longer run us off the road, but instead pass us after going 
to the oncoming lane. That works great when there is clear sight line and 
no oncoming traffic. Far too often, entitled drivers pass us anywhere, when 
it is either a blind curve or there is clear oncoming traffic. This 
happened 4 times this morning just getting out of our small mountain town 
on y ride with our two eldest lassies. Four times oncoming traffic was 
forced to stop and/or pull over for selfish drivers.

Whenever I see this situation is about to happen, I try to signal the 
driver coming up behind me (I always ride at the end of the bike line) by 
putting my left hand out in the "Caution, slow" signal and if I hear them 
still passing, I wave them back. This has caused a driver to slow down 
exactly once out of countless times.

Any ideas how to help the situation be smoother/better?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: what bolts?

[Tony]

Thanks for the tip about the upgrade available for the Allen wrenches. I 
bought the Security Bolts a couple of years ago, but gave up due to the 
poor quality tool that came with the bolts. My Riv has been fine here in 
the suburbs so far with a tether cable through the saddle, but I recently 
had my Specialized saddle/seat post stolen inside a BART station overnight 
- they cut the cable. I use a new cable with a ball bearing now in the bolt 
head, kept there with bee's wax, but I'm gonna try the Security Bolt again 
with the Bondhus tool. I'm actually gonna but five of the 5mm wrenches, 
since that's the only size I need - "Bondhus 48364 5mm Tamper Resistant Tip 
Hex L-Wrench with ProGuard Finish and Long Arm, 119mm, 5-Piece" $18 on 
Amazon.

Tony

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 7:42:51 AM UTC-8, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Nothing against the Pit Lock using contingent here (he says in advance to 
> avoid further ruffling anyone's feathers) but the security bolt idea is a 
> great and inexpensive solution -- you just need to remember to pack along 
> the appropriate tamper resistant hex L- wrench if you're the type that 
> likes to make adjustments on the fly. It's a nearly fool-proof solution 
> since the Riv binder design embeds the nylock nut flush on the other side 
> .. all you're left to worry about is the parts pinching thief who carries 
> around a set of security wrenches with him while out hunting. And btw: you 
> can replace the saddle clamp bolt the same way, as well. 
>
> Shioji's spec is spot-on for the Riv standard seatpost binder. Lastly, the 
> wrenches that Security Bolts supplies with your purchase are pretty nice 
> but if you're looking to upgrade then Bondhus sells a decent set work 
> looking into:
>
> http://www.bondhustools.com/ccp0-prodshow/bondhus_48386.html
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 12:49:34 AM UTC-5, Patrick D Kelly wrote:
>>
>> I've got a joe appaloosa on order. I'd like to try out securing my seat 
>> post and saddle with bolts from http://www.bicyclebolts.com/. Anybody 
>> know what size/which bolts I should get?
>>
>> I've used pinhead locking skewers on my bikes up to now. Any 
>> (anti-)recommendations for skewers and the joe?
>>
>> Assuming I used a good u-lock and sheldon brown locking method, are there 
>> any other bits that I can/should worry about locking? I'm guessing there's 
>> nothing to be done (nothing available) for the quill stem/handle bar.
>>
>> mahalo
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Removing shellac on paint

[Lungimsam]

1. Shellac wears off of handle bars over time, so i would imagine if you leave 
it alone, it might wear off on its own.

2. Try rubbing with your spit and your bare skin or spit on a rag. Not kidding. 
Spit is used by art museum curators to clean paintings. It is the gentlest 
cleanser.

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[RBW] FS: 60cm Bombadil Complete

[Justin Schoop]

Here is a link to pictures.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128930488@N06/sets/72157664315198120

Build Specs...

Handlebars - Albatross
Stem - Dynamic 120mm
Seatpost - Shimano Ultegra
Crankset - Sugino XD2 wide/low double Crank 40t x 26t
Front Der. - Shimano Cx70
Rear Der. - Shimano XTR
Brakes and Brake Levers - Shimano XTR
Wheels - Velocity Dyads
Tires - Smart Sams or Marathon Supreme 29"

The frame was purchased from a list member maybe a year or so ago. It's not in 
showroom condition, it has some chain suck and a few chips here and there from 
riding but there are not dents. 

All parts were purchased new for the build. All XTR was NOS when built. Racks, 
Saddle, and pedals are NOT included in the sale. Only reason I am selling is to 
purchase a Homer since I mainly ride on pavement and light gravel. 

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[RBW] Re: Removing shellac on paint

[Trenker]

Methyl hydrate; but don't inhale. 

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[RBW] Removing shellac on paint

[drew]

I worked a couple of bikes through handlebar swaps and got apparently got a 
little carried away with shellacking, but didn't notice/care for about a week. 
Tried denatured alcohol and it sorts of worked for some thicker spots, but the 
thinner areas are giving me grief. Now it seems like the removal process is 
dulling the paint in the frustrating area. 

So what do you use to remove shellac?

Is there a wax or polish that people use to protect or restore paint on bikes?
Also, I do get the beausage thing. Battlescars and stuff I can abide, but this 
is just sloppy work on my part.

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[RBW] Re: 56CM Sam Hillborne - Double Top Tube

[Belopsky]

Hillborne has been sold. Still seeing if there is an interest in my Velo 
Orange build or frame or parts. Looking to pickup a different Riv in the 
future

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[Eric Daume]

Seems like a fine price, but for a tall bike like this, you might have to
open yourself up to shipping it.

I would be tempted, but I just blew my bike fund on a Jones Plus
.

Eric


On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 2:03 AM, David Craig 
wrote:

> Yep. Complete Hilsen. Great bike in excellent condition. Perhaps someone
> who has a bit more time and patience than me can resell for more $$. Right
> now, storage and reducing my possessions are priorities for me.
>
> I recently cleaned out a hoarder's home who was always holding on to
> things in order to "sell them for what they're worth." When she could no
> longer manage her own affairs, we ended up trashing or giving away many of
> those "treasures" just to cope with the monumental task of cleaning up the
> mess. I refuse to put my loved ones through the same situation.
>
> Dave
>
> On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 5:23:53 PM UTC-8, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>> That's a beauty! Man is some long legged rider gonna get a deal! $1300
>> for a complete Hilsen?? I'm surprised that hasn't sold @ $1500. If it was
>> my size I'd be on the road right now.
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:48:59 PM UTC-8, David Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, Folks.
>>>
>>> Haven't posted for quite awhile. I've been on a medically prompted
>>> hiatus from cycling for the past couple of years. The wife and I will be
>>> hitting the road in a couple of weeks for a year long sabbatical, and I've
>>> decided to pass on my HH to somebody who might be able to use it rather
>>> than store it.
>>>
>>> The bike is in great condition - pictured here:
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/albums/72157626013424216
>>>
>>> Couple of changes from the picture - the bike no longer has a leather
>>> seat and it now sports a 7cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem instead of the
>>> riser - otherwise, it's the same bike pictured.
>>>
>>> I can provide detailed photos and build info to interested buyers. I'm
>>> looking for $1500.00 OBO for the entire bike. Quite a deal, but you'd need
>>> to be able to pick the bike up in central California. I don't have the time
>>> to ship it. I'm located in the Gold County near Yosemite and I'd be willing
>>> to drive to a couple of hours from here to deliver the bike.
>>>
>>> I've sold several items to list members over the years, so I believe
>>> I've got a good reputation as a straight shooter and honest guy.
>>>
>>> Remember, please reply via a PM instead of through the list. I'll get
>>> back to you ASAP.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[Belopsky]

What a deal for someone tall. 

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[RBW] Re: suspicious Cheviot on Bay Area CL

[Belopsky]

Dave did you pick it up?

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[Deacon Patrick]

That is a beautiful Homer! But for higher priorities, I'd be all over this 
for long remote fire road rides. My thoughts and prayers for you in your 
health issues.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 12:03:51 AM UTC-7, David Craig wrote:
>
> Yep. Complete Hilsen. Great bike in excellent condition.
>

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