Re: [RBW] RE: RE: RBW Listers Take Over The West Point Inn, June 24 & 25 - Join us there!!! Proposed Ride.

[Hugh Smitham]

Well I don't ride up there much. I was hoping the locals could let me know
whether this route was doable. 40% does seem a tad much. I chose all trails
and roads I've heard people have ridden.
On Jun 9, 2016 9:38 PM, "René Sterental"  wrote:

40% maximum grade? You've got to be kidding me!


On Thursday, June 9, 2016, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> I think my post to the original got buried.
>
> I wanted to throw out this ride as a potential Saturday ride from the Inn
> and back with a stop at the Marin Museum of Bicycling. At first glance it
> looks like a formidable ride 32 miles and 6200' elevation but we have all
> day to do this ride. I purpose we bring a lunch with us and eat out on the
> trail. Of course not all are up for a ride like this. I encourage folks to
> chime in with a plan "B" and "C" route(s) maybe a bail out on my route
> where we all meet at a specific time at the museum for a tour and a really
> mellow ride staying closer to the Inn.
>
> Without further fanfare here's the route
> .
>
> Your thoughts?
>
> ~Hugh
>   Los Angeles, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] RE: RE: RBW Listers Take Over The West Point Inn, June 24 & 25 - Join us there!!! Proposed Ride.

[René Sterental]

40% maximum grade? You've got to be kidding me!

On Thursday, June 9, 2016, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> I think my post to the original got buried.
>
> I wanted to throw out this ride as a potential Saturday ride from the Inn
> and back with a stop at the Marin Museum of Bicycling. At first glance it
> looks like a formidable ride 32 miles and 6200' elevation but we have all
> day to do this ride. I purpose we bring a lunch with us and eat out on the
> trail. Of course not all are up for a ride like this. I encourage folks to
> chime in with a plan "B" and "C" route(s) maybe a bail out on my route
> where we all meet at a specific time at the museum for a tour and a really
> mellow ride staying closer to the Inn.
>
> Without further fanfare here's the route
> .
>
> Your thoughts?
>
> ~Hugh
>   Los Angeles, CA
>
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[RBW] Cycling in Tampa with pics...

[Lungimsam]

In March I went to Tampa to help take care of my Dad during his 6 week stem 
cell transplant and recovery process. After a total 8 months of 
chemo...cancer-free!!! Praise the Lord!!! He got through the treatments as 
easily as a person can - with minimal bad effects. It definitely wasn't 
easy, but on the easiest side of things as treatment goes. So I am also 
thankful for that.

I had driven down (16 hours in one shot - auto-nneuring!) and brought my 
Blue Sam. Having been down there before caregiving, I knew I would be able 
to take a quick spin every day as time allowed.

First few weeks I rode through the USF Campus to Moffitt Cancer Center 
Hospital and back to our nearby rented apartment as a way to ride daily. 
Commuting to the hospital, basically.
Dad would kvell to the nurses that I rode every day. :)
When he was released to apartment nearby the hospital I'd take a daily 
quick jaunt in adjacent neighborhood.
When he was released home I took daily quick spins through the neighborhood.

Here are some pics of the rides and pretty flora and fauna and 
neighborhoods. A couple videos, too. Enjoy.

I always heard that Cancer and Cancer treatment is a horrifying thing, but 
never knew about the logistical nightmare treatment entails for the patient 
and the agony of living in fear and uncertainty.
I am very proud of my Dad. Such a frightening thing to face but he got 
though it and is now getting his life back, even driving and going out 
again. As his immune system matures he will be able to do more and more 
normal activities.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/albums/72157669464666796





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[RBW] FS: Rich built wheelset; 700c velocity rims/ lx hubs

[Michael Williams]

Hey group,  for sale is a 700c wheelset.   Both hubs are Shimano Deore LX/ 36 
hole.  The front rim is a velocity synergy, rear rim is a velocity dyad, both 
36 hole.  Built by Rich at Riv. The wheels are solid and true,   Used but not 
toomuch.  * included in the sale are 3 pairs of used but totally still great 
tires: 29x2.25 thunder burts/ 700x50 marathon duremes and 700x 40 clement xplor 
mso.  Asking $200 for everything,  not including shipping.  Still gotta figure 
that out!   Please message me off list,  thanks!   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: FS - Tan Nigel Smith Loafers

[Glen]

I prefer to sell them as a set but if they don't move by Sunday I'll be 
glad to sell just the small.

An offer for the large and there will be three happy people.

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 2:57:51 PM UTC-6, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I interested in just the small.  I was actually getting ready to post a 
> WTB.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Fair winds,
>
> Captain Conway
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[eliu01]

Had one a few years back.  When Hiroshi asked what color I wanted I told 
him, "British Racing Green."  He knew exactly what I wanted.

https://flic.kr/p/6A3buc

Eric Liu
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: WTB: drop bar brake levers, down tube or bar end shifters

[dougP]

Are you looking for indexed bar ends or Suntour Bar-Cons?

dougP

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 6:25:01 PM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> More interested in the drop bar levers as I think I may have the bar 
> end/down tube figured out right now..
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB Jitensha Ebisu All-Purpose

[exliontamer]

I know it's a long shot but this seems like the right place to ask. 91 PBH. 
Seems like a 62-63cm is ideal. I'm looking for a frame/fork in 700c but I'm 
open to 650b and/or complete bikes. Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Tom, I live a mile away from the Brandywine Creek in Chadds Ford.  Mind telling 
me where your photo was taken with the mill in the background?  Nice bike too!

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[RBW] Re: WTB: drop bar brake levers, down tube or bar end shifters

[David Person]

I have a pair of Velo Orange Gran Compe levers that I bought last year, 
mounted but then switched to Albatross bars instead.  $50 shipped (CONUS)

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/brakes/levers/gran-compe-202-non-aero-brake-levers-drilled.html

David Person

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 6:25:01 PM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> More interested in the drop bar levers as I think I may have the bar 
> end/down tube figured out right now..
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: drop bar brake levers, down tube or bar end shifters

[Belopsky]

More interested in the drop bar levers as I think I may have the bar 
end/down tube figured out right now..


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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

['frank_a' via RBW Owners Bunch]

 Don McClung 29er cruiser - # 51

https://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/11392941485/in/photostream/

- Frank



On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:51:28 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] A practical bike, believe it or not!

[Justin August]

Putting the RIOT back in Fop Chariot. Looks great. 

-Justin

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[RBW] Plastic fenders - never again

[Dan A]

I've found Planet Bike fenders to be much easier to install than SKS fenders. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Deacon Patrick]

Of course it's the real thing. Just a different real thing. In the spirit 
of clan tartans, we can call this ancient British racing green. They used 
natural dies that faded with sun. The lighter the green the greater the 
rider. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 5:00:18 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> That's not BRG - much to light and bright.  Not a bad color, but still, 
> not the real thing.
>
>
>
> On 06/09/2016 06:22 PM, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Bunch o' clowns, but here you go.  
>
> As much as I do like the color, I think "one" is probably enough.  
>
> Some day I'll paint the QB.
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote: 
>>
>> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
>> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
>> David 
>> Chicago
>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Fenders

[Bill Lindsay]

Oops, 5 different bikes.  I forgot about my wife's Yves Gomez, which runs 
41mm Fatty Rumpkins without fenders.  

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 4:43:15 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> If I was going to set up a Cheviut with fenders, I would run 38mm tires or 
> narrower.  50mm without fenders sounds about right for the max.  I don't 
> have a Cheviut but I have owned 4 different bikes with the exact same 
> Tektro big mouth brake calipers.  I tried to get 42s and fenders on there, 
> and it "fit" but it did not have proper clearance.  So I always ran 38 or 
> narrower.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:19:49 PM UTC-7, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:
>>
>> Michael's comments and the follow up replies made me start thinkingSo 
>> im starting this new thread so as not to derail Michaels.Plastic 
>> Fenders-never again.
>> Im buildinga new Riv Chevy-out. I want fenders and I also want big fat 
>> tires. Since 50mm tires are as big as can be put on it, you have to know 
>> how wide are the tires REALLY.
>> Which is about 46mm
>> Since I know nothing about installing fenders but I do have a Bike 
>> stand..(that should help) Im asking for some clarification among you fender 
>> installing pros.
>> Im considering the VO Zeppelin or the flutted aluminum fenders for good 
>> looks as well as long life. 
>> But I think the 50mm Fender will only allow a 42mm ACTUAL width tire?
>> I also see they have a 63mm fender that will hold a 52 mm tire, but is 
>> that the actual tire width or the size of the tire?
>> How do you know if the fender is too big for the frame?
>> This is where it gets confusing, so any help is appreciated
>> Riv offers the SKS P50 for the chevy, but maybe a steel or Aluminum 
>> fender like the VO will hold up longer, better?
>> Just dont know anything.
>> Your comments are valued.
>>
>> Thanks BBOB )
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Fenders

[Bill Lindsay]

If I was going to set up a Cheviut with fenders, I would run 38mm tires or 
narrower.  50mm without fenders sounds about right for the max.  I don't 
have a Cheviut but I have owned 4 different bikes with the exact same 
Tektro big mouth brake calipers.  I tried to get 42s and fenders on there, 
and it "fit" but it did not have proper clearance.  So I always ran 38 or 
narrower.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:19:49 PM UTC-7, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:
>
> Michael's comments and the follow up replies made me start thinkingSo 
> im starting this new thread so as not to derail Michaels.Plastic 
> Fenders-never again.
> Im buildinga new Riv Chevy-out. I want fenders and I also want big fat 
> tires. Since 50mm tires are as big as can be put on it, you have to know 
> how wide are the tires REALLY.
> Which is about 46mm
> Since I know nothing about installing fenders but I do have a Bike 
> stand..(that should help) Im asking for some clarification among you fender 
> installing pros.
> Im considering the VO Zeppelin or the flutted aluminum fenders for good 
> looks as well as long life. 
> But I think the 50mm Fender will only allow a 42mm ACTUAL width tire?
> I also see they have a 63mm fender that will hold a 52 mm tire, but is 
> that the actual tire width or the size of the tire?
> How do you know if the fender is too big for the frame?
> This is where it gets confusing, so any help is appreciated
> Riv offers the SKS P50 for the chevy, but maybe a steel or Aluminum fender 
> like the VO will hold up longer, better?
> Just dont know anything.
> Your comments are valued.
>
> Thanks BBOB )
>
>

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[RBW] A practical bike, believe it or not!

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Love it!  Thanks for sharing

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Re: [RBW] Speaking of Fenders

[Steve Palincsar]

It won't fit inside the fork crown and between the chain stays at the 
bottom bracket shell.  Serious remodeling will be required to make a 
too-wide fender fit, and it's going to take a lot longer than you might 
at first glance think.


On 06/09/2016 06:19 PM, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:

How do you know if the fender is too big for the frame?


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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Steve Palincsar]

That's not BRG - much to light and bright.  Not a bad color, but still, 
not the real thing.




On 06/09/2016 06:22 PM, iamkeith wrote:


Bunch o' clowns, but here you go.

As much as I do like the color, I think "one" is probably enough.

Some day I'll paint the QB.






On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:

All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' -
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/

David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Fenders

[Ron Mc]

my daughter's upright has 42mm Soma SVs with 50mm SKS fenders - works, but 
not much room to spare.  

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 5:50:11 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Measure the width inside of the fork blades, seatstays, and chainstays to 
> determine your max fender width.
>
> There are different formulae for safe fender to tire size. I think boulder 
> bikes recommends a fender 12 mm wider than your tire width.
>
> Others will chome in with their opinions.
>
>

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[RBW] Speaking of Fenders

[Lungimsam]

Measure the width inside of the fork blades, seatstays, and chainstays to 
determine your max fender width.

There are different formulae for safe fender to tire size. I think boulder 
bikes recommends a fender 12 mm wider than your tire width.

Others will chome in with their opinions.

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[iamkeith]

Bunch o' clowns, but here you go.  

As much as I do like the color, I think "one" is probably enough.  

Some day I'll paint the QB.





On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] Speaking of Fenders

[bluebirdonabicycle]

Michael's comments and the follow up replies made me start thinkingSo 
im starting this new thread so as not to derail Michaels.Plastic 
Fenders-never again.
Im buildinga new Riv Chevy-out. I want fenders and I also want big fat 
tires. Since 50mm tires are as big as can be put on it, you have to know 
how wide are the tires REALLY.
Which is about 46mm
Since I know nothing about installing fenders but I do have a Bike 
stand..(that should help) Im asking for some clarification among you fender 
installing pros.
Im considering the VO Zeppelin or the flutted aluminum fenders for good 
looks as well as long life. 
But I think the 50mm Fender will only allow a 42mm ACTUAL width tire?
I also see they have a 63mm fender that will hold a 52 mm tire, but is that 
the actual tire width or the size of the tire?
How do you know if the fender is too big for the frame?
This is where it gets confusing, so any help is appreciated
Riv offers the SKS P50 for the chevy, but maybe a steel or Aluminum fender 
like the VO will hold up longer, better?
Just dont know anything.
Your comments are valued.

Thanks BBOB )

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Avery Wilson]

To add to the fray -  my '92 MB-5 in BRG, or very close to it! 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BGcthzhTfwW/

Sporting Riv standard wheelset, original Deore LX drivetrain, Rat Trap Pass 
tires, etc. It's fun and I love riding it. It's icing on the cake that it's my 
favorite bike color. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bags

[Conway Bennett]

I just bought that beauty and I'm on the east side of said park.

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[RBW] Re: FS - Tan Nigel Smith Loafers

[Conway Bennett]

I interested in just the small.  I was actually getting ready to post a WTB.  
Thanks in advance.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bags

[David Banzer]

Forgot to add, local pickup certainly is an option. I'm in Chicago, across 
from Horner Park.
For checkout, you can put in the promo code LOCAL which takes off the 
shipping charge.
Big saddlebag is sold.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:16:51 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> These are bags I make and sell under the Treetop name.
> I've got a bunch of one-offs that I've made, and typically use for a 
> little bit to test out the design.
> All the bags for sale are listed at treetop.bigcartel.com.
> Please read the full description and see photos at the links provided for 
> each bag.
> Shipping is a flat $7 per order, sent USPS Priority mail.
> Payment can be made with credit/debit card or through Paypal.
> Please go through the webstore if you'd like to purchase a bag. 
> Obligatory chainring plug: I also have a bunch of Willow chainrings listed 
> for sale on that webstore as well, feel free to add some to your order as 
> it all ships for $7 no matter the size of your order. I also have a few 
> stems listed there as well.
>
> Please contact me offlist if you have any questions.
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
>
> Saddle Wedge - maroon, leather trim, new - $60 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge
>
> Saddle Wedge - tan, new - $60 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge
>
> Saddle Wedge - one-off bag made of canvas/nylon fabric, no straps, 
> side-release buckle, leather-less - $30 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/saddle-wedge-wr-canvas-nylon
>
> Saddle Wedge - black, no straps - $25 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-black-saddle-wedge-no-straps
>
> Saddle Wedge - slightly different design than my normal wedge, Ranger Tan 
> waxed canvas - $45 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge-ranger-tan-waxed-canvas
>
> Basket Bag - gray waxed canvas, fits Wald 137 basket - $30 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/basket-bag
>
> Big Saddlebag - one-off big bag design - 13" wide, 12" tall, 6" deep, 
> waxed canvas - $65 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/big-saddlebag-gray-waxed-canvas
>
> Porteur Bag for Pass & Stow Rack - zippered bag, big chunka leather on the 
> bottom - $80 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/porteur-bag-for-pass-stow-rack
>
> Weekender Bag - non bike-specific bag, waxed Ranger Tan twill canvas, big 
> chunka leather on the bottom - $100 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/weekender-bag-ranger-tan-waxed-canvas
>
> Waxed Canvas Cover for Moleskine Large Cahier - non bike-specific, but fun 
> prototype for keeping a notebook in a bike-specific bag - $5 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/large-moleskine-cahier-cover
>
> Mini Rando Bag - leather trim, front pocket, side sleeve pockets, zippered 
> pocket on top - $75 - 
> http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-mini-rando-bag
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New project

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/09/2016 04:12 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner) wrote:

I tried that once and I can't say it was an unqualified success:
https://flic.kr/p/9ASpVg

But maybe it's time to give it another try.


What could it hurt?  There are a bunch of tutorial videos now that 
didn't used to exist a while ago, and this is clearly one area where 
practice does make perfect.


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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Steve Palincsar]

I'll bet they won't deteriorate from UV...

On 06/09/2016 04:27 PM, Jeff Lesperance wrote:

What's the opinion on stainless still ties?

Inline image 1

I picked up a packet of these at the big box hardware store and used 
'em to attach stuff to my bike, but not a basket, yet.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/09/2016 01:27 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

I have five thoughts on this subject

1.  I agree that metal fenders look nicer than plastics.  I have no 
gripes with anybody who chooses to use metal fenders exclusively. 
 That said, I think plastics look fine, and are good enough for many 
things.  I use metals and plastics about 50/50 in my stable.


I only replaced the SKS fenders on my Longstaff because the weight of 
the Pixeo tail light kept breaking the fender.  I had them on that bike 
for over a dozen years and thought they worked fine, looked like they 
belonged (I mean, Longstaff is as British as it's possible to be, and 
plastic fenders pretty much are "the British way") and I went with metal 
because I was afraid the breakage issue would continue with other brands 
of plastic fenders, and because they were on sale, the price was within 
ten dollars of the plastic ones.


2.  If you are doing it right, metal fenders take a bit longer to 
install than plastics.  If it took 3 hours, you were doing it wrong. 
 If it required 3 arms and a box of ambidextrous luck, you were doing 
it wrong.  Doing it right should take about 40 minutes for plastics 
and about 60 minutes for metal.  Maybe 80 minutes for metal if they 
are not pre-drilled.  I'm speaking roughly and generally because 
usually this process is meditative, and involves a glass of wine or 
dram of whisky.


If you're doing it for the first time and you're serious about being 
meditative, 3 hours would still be within the realm of reasonable. 
Printed instructions and photographs only go so far.  If you've never 
seen it done, you're right to appreciate the delicacy of the materials 
you're working with and the costly harm you can so easily and so quickly 
done.  Taking the time to stop, play it all again in your mind and calm 
yourself down, can be time well spent.   Of course, subsequent installs 
are faster and easier, but this is one area where being in a hurry is 
wrong in every possible way.


3.  I agree 100% with Steve Palincsar that the very best fender 
installs happen on bicycles designed perfectly to accept metal 
fenders.  That means equidistant bridges, with a threaded boss already 
present at the seatstay bridge, the chainstay bridge and under the 
fork crown.  That install takes a while because you need to custom 
drill your fenders for the bike, but that's the very best way, in my 
opinion.  Everything else is a workaround.  The relative goodness of 
that workaround is in the eye of the beholder.  All of my Rivendells 
have nice threaded bridges in back.  None of my Rivendells have a 
proper fender attachment point at the fork crown, so I have to use an 
L-Bracket there.  That's a workaround, but I think it's an acceptable 
workaround.


"My mind to your mind, my thoughts to your thoughts..."

"My mind to your mind, my thoughts to your thoughts," - See more at: 
http://www.startrek.com/database_article/mind-meld-vulcan#sthash.5IQbk0p5.dpuf


4.  The most common way of "doing it wrong" in my experience, is 
trying to do a proper fender install with the bike on the ground. 
 Choosing to try to install your own fenders without having the bike 
in a proper workstand will definitely make the job more challenging 
and probably more frustrating.  Metal fenders in particular, with 
perfectly designed attachment points, require you to remove and 
reinstall the wheels multiple times.  I don't recommend attempting 
that without having the bike in a stand.  If the bike is on the 
ground, then that motivates me to try to do everything with the wheels 
on, and that just makes it harder.


Agree 1,000%.  I can't even imagine attempting to install metal fenders 
without a proper workstand.   Talk about "this won't end well..."


5.  I agree with Michael in his OP that whether or not to choose to 
use a product has little to do with the product itself and almost 
everything to do with the person holding the wrench.  Michael doesn't 
like installing plastic fenders, so he won't do it anymore.  Bravo. 
 Similarly, I find doing a bleed on mineral-oil hydraulic brakes far 
easier than doing a bleed on D.O.T. fluid hydraulic brakes, so I 
choose to avoid D.O.T. hydraulic brakes.  My choice says little 
objectively about D.O.T. brakes.  My choice says something about my 
mechanical abilities and proclivities.  People who find themselves 
similar to Michael in ability and experience might also decide to stop 
using plastic fenders.  That's totally cool.  I don't like roofing or 
drain-side plumbing, so I pay people to do those things.  I like 
construction framing and supply-side plumbing, so I do those tasks 
when they arise.  Those choices have more to do with me than they have 
to do with the nature of the tasks.


Like some guitarists like Martin Dreadnoughts over J-series Gibsons, and 
vice versa.  Neither is wrong, and both are splendid guitars. If you're 
doing it for the love of it, you shouldn't work on or use what you don't 
love.  That 

Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Jeff Lesperance]

What's the opinion on stainless still ties?

[image: Inline image 1]

I picked up a packet of these at the big box hardware store and used 'em to
attach stuff to my bike, but not a basket, yet.

On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 3:54 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Anton insisted on prolonging the rhetorical exercise with:
>
> "If you extend my reasoning to Wald baskets, most often there is another
> way besides zip-ties to ensure a sturdy connection."
>
> If your alternative is wire wrapping, then:
> Your solution costs more than zipties (but we're first worlders who don't
> care about cost)
> Your solution is heavier than zipties (but we're not weight weenies)
> Your solution takes 100x longer to install than zipties (but we spend lots
> of our free time on time sink projects so we don't mind)
> Your solution takes 10x longer to remove than zipties (ditto)
> Your solution is stronger than the basket itself, as are zipties (if we
> tested your wires would hold more load than 8 zipties, but the basket and
> the rack would fail first)
> Your solution will outlive you, as zipties can (you saw zipties crack in
> under a year, I have not)
> Your solution cannot fail catastrophically, just like 8 zipties
> You think 8 zipties looks ugly and trashy.  I think wire lashing looks
> ugly and trashy.
>
> The gap is entirely aesthetic, and that's OK.  Ugly is in the eye of the
> beholder.  Lots of people think twine is ugly.  Lots of people hate all
> forms of adhesive tape on bicycles.  To each his own.
>
> Bill
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Phil Wood, VO, Carradice, Pasela & More

[DB]

All that is remaining are the Paselas and the Garmin case.

Thank you,
Dan

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 9:45:09 PM UTC-7, DB wrote:
>
> Update:
> The following items are still available:
>
>
>
> Phil Wood 123 mm, square taper BB (used, thousands of miles of life left 
> in it): $60
> 4 Brand New 26x1.5 Panaracer Pasela tires (wire bead): $20 each
> Sigma Sport 1600 wireless computer (used): $10
> Knog Wireless computer (used- pink) $10
> Garmin silicone case for Edge 520: Free with any of the above items
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 11:04:08 AM UTC-7, DB wrote:
>>
>> The following items are for sale.  Pick up in the East Bay is preferred 
>> but I'm willing to ship anywhere in the US if you pick up the costs. 
>>  Photos here: https://goo.gl/photos/TG72CVfVPdjMHm2m7
>>
>> Phil Wood 123 mm, square taper BB (used, thousands of miles of life left 
>> in it): 60
>> Velo Orange Randonneur Rack (used): $40
>> 4 Brand New 26x1.5 Panaracer Pasela tires (wire bead): $20 each
>> Carradice Bagman Quick Release (used, missing jubilee clip): $25
>> No name saddlebag support: $5
>> Fizik Aliante saddle (used): $25
>> Sigma Sport 1600 wireless computer (used): $10
>> Knog Wireless computer (used- pink) $10
>> Garmin silicone case for Edge 520: Free with any of the above items
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dan
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Deacon Patrick]

After years of extensive testing silver and orange are the fastest bikes in 
my stable. No other colors even came close. BRG didn't even show up. Shrug. 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Bags

[David Banzer]

These are bags I make and sell under the Treetop name.
I've got a bunch of one-offs that I've made, and typically use for a little 
bit to test out the design.
All the bags for sale are listed at treetop.bigcartel.com.
Please read the full description and see photos at the links provided for 
each bag.
Shipping is a flat $7 per order, sent USPS Priority mail.
Payment can be made with credit/debit card or through Paypal.
Please go through the webstore if you'd like to purchase a bag. 
Obligatory chainring plug: I also have a bunch of Willow chainrings listed 
for sale on that webstore as well, feel free to add some to your order as 
it all ships for $7 no matter the size of your order. I also have a few 
stems listed there as well.

Please contact me offlist if you have any questions.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

Saddle Wedge - maroon, leather trim, new - $60 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge

Saddle Wedge - tan, new - $60 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge

Saddle Wedge - one-off bag made of canvas/nylon fabric, no straps, 
side-release buckle, leather-less - $30 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/saddle-wedge-wr-canvas-nylon

Saddle Wedge - black, no straps - $25 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-black-saddle-wedge-no-straps

Saddle Wedge - slightly different design than my normal wedge, Ranger Tan 
waxed canvas - $45 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-saddle-wedge-ranger-tan-waxed-canvas

Basket Bag - gray waxed canvas, fits Wald 137 basket - $30 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/basket-bag

Big Saddlebag - one-off big bag design - 13" wide, 12" tall, 6" deep, waxed 
canvas - $65 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/big-saddlebag-gray-waxed-canvas

Porteur Bag for Pass & Stow Rack - zippered bag, big chunka leather on the 
bottom - $80 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/porteur-bag-for-pass-stow-rack

Weekender Bag - non bike-specific bag, waxed Ranger Tan twill canvas, big 
chunka leather on the bottom - $100 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/weekender-bag-ranger-tan-waxed-canvas

Waxed Canvas Cover for Moleskine Large Cahier - non bike-specific, but fun 
prototype for keeping a notebook in a bike-specific bag - $5 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/large-moleskine-cahier-cover

Mini Rando Bag - leather trim, front pocket, side sleeve pockets, zippered 
pocket on top - $75 - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/ready-made-mini-rando-bag


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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Bill Lindsay]

I've got three bikes and a rack that need to go to the powdercoaters, but I 
keep putting it off.  

The first of the three will most likely be powdercoated this color:

IT'S PINK!?!? 


I don't particularly care if people love or hate the color.  A crappy bike 
in your favorite color is still a crappy bike.  A fantastic bike in your 
least favorite 'colorway' is still a fantastic bike.  If your color-bias is 
so out-of-whack that the color prevents you from enjoying what is good 
about a bike, then that's unfortunate.  

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:44:32 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Bring it on!  Unless otherwise stated, please please assume my response to 
> each photo is:
>
> *Fantastic bike!  I would have chosen a different color, but I hope it 
> brings you thousands of happy miles!*
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 9:51:28 AM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
>> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
>> David 
>> Chicago
>>
>>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Bill Lindsay]

Anton insisted on prolonging the rhetorical exercise with:

"If you extend my reasoning to Wald baskets, most often there is another 
way besides zip-ties to ensure a sturdy connection."

If your alternative is wire wrapping, then:
Your solution costs more than zipties (but we're first worlders who don't 
care about cost)
Your solution is heavier than zipties (but we're not weight weenies)
Your solution takes 100x longer to install than zipties (but we spend lots 
of our free time on time sink projects so we don't mind)
Your solution takes 10x longer to remove than zipties (ditto)
Your solution is stronger than the basket itself, as are zipties (if we 
tested your wires would hold more load than 8 zipties, but the basket and 
the rack would fail first)
Your solution will outlive you, as zipties can (you saw zipties crack in 
under a year, I have not)
Your solution cannot fail catastrophically, just like 8 zipties
You think 8 zipties looks ugly and trashy.  I think wire lashing looks ugly 
and trashy.  

The gap is entirely aesthetic, and that's OK.  Ugly is in the eye of the 
beholder.  Lots of people think twine is ugly.  Lots of people hate all 
forms of adhesive tape on bicycles.  To each his own.  

Bill

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[RBW] A practical bike, believe it or not!

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

From: Thomas Allingham >
Date: June 9, 2016 at 3:11:36 PM EDT
To: "Allingham II Thomas J. (Retired Partner)" 
>
Subject: A practical bike, believe it or not!
Reply-To: Thomas Allingham >

Lest you all think that I'm capable of nothing but precious flowers like 
yesterday's Wilbury and the recent Clementines, here are a couple of pics of my 
brutish black Bombadil with Rolloff hub, the bike of the apocalypse:

Glam shots:

Rivendell 
Bombadil






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Rivendell Bombadil



Bombadil with 
Rohloff






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Bombadil with Rohloff



And out and about for lunch today:

Bomba, out and 
about






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Bomba, out and about








The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher 
& Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on behalf of 
Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or probonolaw.com domain 
names is in his/her personal capacity and not on behalf of Skadden or its 
affiliates.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

In addition to yesterday's Wilbury, I offer my Mystery Bike with its tentacular 
stays in BRG:

https://flic.kr/p/dKqGWE

And maybe a SimpleOne qualifies?

https://flic.kr/p/c3Kbjd

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2016, at 1:44 PM, Bill Lindsay 
> wrote:

Bring it on!  Unless otherwise stated, please please assume my response to each 
photo is:

Fantastic bike!  I would have chosen a different color, but I hope it brings 
you thousands of happy miles!

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 9:51:28 AM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
David
Chicago


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[RBW] A practical bike, believe it or not!

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

From: Thomas Allingham >
Date: June 9, 2016 at 3:11:36 PM EDT
To: "Allingham II Thomas J. (Retired Partner)" 
>
Subject: A practical bike, believe it or not!
Reply-To: Thomas Allingham >

Lest you all think that I'm capable of nothing but precious flowers like 
yesterday's Wilbury and the recent Clementines, here are a couple of pics of my 
brutish black Bombadil with Rolloff hub, the bike of the apocalypse:

Glam shots:

Rivendell 
Bombadil






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Rivendell Bombadil



Bombadil with 
Rohloff






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Bombadil with Rohloff



And out and about for lunch today:

Bomba, out and 
about






[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png]
Bomba, out and about








The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher 
& Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on behalf of 
Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or probonolaw.com domain 
names is in his/her personal capacity and not on behalf of Skadden or its 
affiliates.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Bill Lindsay]

Tom

A daruma is certainly OK.  I use the built in L-Bracket with SKS fenders 
because it's built in.  You know my fleet well, so you are familiar with 
all five of my bikes that have metal fenders.  

1.  Paramountain.  Since I was paying Ed Litton to put fender eyelets at 
the fork tips, I paid him to braze a threaded boss under the crown.  
2.  Schwinn Tempo 650B conversion.  I chose to use a Sheldon nut and 
L-bracket on that bike because a daruma would have crowded my tire.  
3.  Rawland Nordavinden.  Since I was paying Ed Litton to braze on 
centerpull posts, I paid him to braze a threaded boss under the crown
4.  Rawland Stag.  Since I was paying Jeff Lyon to build me a custom fork 
with dynamo wire guides and flexy fork blades, I paid him to braze a 
threaded boss under the crown
5.  My Pop's Windsor 700c conversion.  I used a daruma because there was 
headroom without encroaching on the tire.  

Bill


On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 11:31:48 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
> Bill:  
>
> Re your third thought on this subject, why not use a daruma bolt instead 
> of an L bracket for the fork crown attachment?  Much cleaner looking, thus 
> partially compensating for all those zip ties elsewhere on the bike
>
> Tom
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Bill Lindsay  
> wrote:
>
> I have five thoughts on this subject 
>
> 1.  I agree that metal fenders look nicer than plastics.  I have no gripes 
> with anybody who chooses to use metal fenders exclusively.  That said, I 
> think plastics look fine, and are good enough for many things.  I use 
> metals and plastics about 50/50 in my stable.
> 2.  If you are doing it right, metal fenders take a bit longer to install 
> than plastics.  If it took 3 hours, you were doing it wrong.  If it 
> required 3 arms and a box of ambidextrous luck, you were doing it wrong. 
>  Doing it right should take about 40 minutes for plastics and about 60 
> minutes for metal.  Maybe 80 minutes for metal if they are not pre-drilled. 
>  I'm speaking roughly and generally because usually this process is 
> meditative, and involves a glass of wine or dram of whisky.  
> 3.  I agree 100% with Steve Palincsar that the very best fender installs 
> happen on bicycles designed perfectly to accept metal fenders.  That means 
> equidistant bridges, with a threaded boss already present at the seatstay 
> bridge, the chainstay bridge and under the fork crown.  That install takes 
> a while because you need to custom drill your fenders for the bike, but 
> that's the very best way, in my opinion.  Everything else is a workaround. 
>  The relative goodness of that workaround is in the eye of the beholder. 
>  All of my Rivendells have nice threaded bridges in back.  None of my 
> Rivendells have a proper fender attachment point at the fork crown, so I 
> have to use an L-Bracket there.  That's a workaround, but I think it's an 
> acceptable workaround. 
> 4.  The most common way of "doing it wrong" in my experience, is trying to 
> do a proper fender install with the bike on the ground.  Choosing to try to 
> install your own fenders without having the bike in a proper workstand will 
> definitely make the job more challenging and probably more frustrating. 
>  Metal fenders in particular, with perfectly designed attachment points, 
> require you to remove and reinstall the wheels multiple times.  I don't 
> recommend attempting that without having the bike in a stand.  If the bike 
> is on the ground, then that motivates me to try to do everything with the 
> wheels on, and that just makes it harder. 
> 5.  I agree with Michael in his OP that whether or not to choose to use a 
> product has little to do with the product itself and almost everything to 
> do with the person holding the wrench.  Michael doesn't like installing 
> plastic fenders, so he won't do it anymore.  Bravo.  Similarly, I find 
> doing a bleed on mineral-oil hydraulic brakes far easier than doing a bleed 
> on D.O.T. fluid hydraulic brakes, so I choose to avoid D.O.T. hydraulic 
> brakes.  My choice says little objectively about D.O.T. brakes.  My choice 
> says something about my mechanical abilities and proclivities.  People who 
> find themselves similar to Michael in ability and experience might also 
> decide to stop using plastic fenders.  That's totally cool.  I don't like 
> roofing or drain-side plumbing, so I pay people to do those things.  I like 
> construction framing and supply-side plumbing, so I do those tasks when 
> they arise.  Those choices have more to do with me than they have to do 
> with the nature of the tasks.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote: 
>>
>> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
>> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
>> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
>> 

Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Actually, 

The glue workaround is something I enthusiastically endorse *when* there is 
no better method available for a particular bike. If a bike were built for 
wiring, I would not endorse gluing the wires. The glue is the most elegant 
solution I can think of when there is no better way. 
There is no glue on my L'Avecaise, because it was designed for wires. But 
there is glue on my Rawland, because it wasn't designed for wires. If you 
extend my reasoning to Wald baskets, most often there is another way 
besides zip-ties to ensure a sturdy connection. If there weren't, I'd 
endorse zip ties.

Anton




On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:07:31 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I'm a complicated guy, what can I say...
>
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 2:53:06 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>>
>> Anti zip tie, but oddly the idea of gluing wires is somehow appealing!?
>
>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

I'm a complicated guy, what can I say...


On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 2:53:06 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> Anti zip tie, but oddly the idea of gluing wires is somehow appealing!?

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[masmojo]

Anti zip tie, but oddly the idea of gluing wires is somehow appealing!?

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Wally Estrella]

Oooh! I don't have a BRG bike!  It's my fave color on a bike.  I'm hoping 
to build up another bike next year and have that as the color!  I do have a 
BRG Brooks B17 :)
Now, to drool over these posted pics

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:51:28 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New project

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

The Rasta Clementine isn't finished -- I'm waiting for a package from Paul that 
will have the appropriately colored brake levers, Motolites, and Melvin chain 
tensioner.

And then I have to figure out a creative way to tape the bars in red, yellow 
and green.

And yes, Steve P, while I'm waiting for the Paul package I was working on my 
PJW-modified Raleigh, but I needed a bottom bracket tool for the SKF BB, so now 
I'm waiting on that, too.

Which is how the Wilbury got finished!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2016, at 11:58 AM, Ryan Fleming 
> wrote:

Tom, I was snooping and saw your Rasta Clem which I thought was pretty darn 
coolhave you finished it and do you like the Choco bars? Also, how do you 
decide which bike to pick for the day, you have a truly dizzying array of 
choices! I'm BRG with envy!

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 5:17:15 PM UTC-5, Marc40a wrote:

Wow.

Big fan of British racing green.

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The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher 
& Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on behalf of 
Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or probonolaw.com domain 
names is in his/her personal capacity and not on behalf of Skadden or its 
affiliates.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

Bill:

Re your third thought on this subject, why not use a daruma bolt instead of an 
L bracket for the fork crown attachment?  Much cleaner looking, thus partially 
compensating for all those zip ties elsewhere on the bike

Tom

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Bill Lindsay 
> wrote:

I have five thoughts on this subject

1.  I agree that metal fenders look nicer than plastics.  I have no gripes with 
anybody who chooses to use metal fenders exclusively.  That said, I think 
plastics look fine, and are good enough for many things.  I use metals and 
plastics about 50/50 in my stable.
2.  If you are doing it right, metal fenders take a bit longer to install than 
plastics.  If it took 3 hours, you were doing it wrong.  If it required 3 arms 
and a box of ambidextrous luck, you were doing it wrong.  Doing it right should 
take about 40 minutes for plastics and about 60 minutes for metal.  Maybe 80 
minutes for metal if they are not pre-drilled.  I'm speaking roughly and 
generally because usually this process is meditative, and involves a glass of 
wine or dram of whisky.
3.  I agree 100% with Steve Palincsar that the very best fender installs happen 
on bicycles designed perfectly to accept metal fenders.  That means equidistant 
bridges, with a threaded boss already present at the seatstay bridge, the 
chainstay bridge and under the fork crown.  That install takes a while because 
you need to custom drill your fenders for the bike, but that's the very best 
way, in my opinion.  Everything else is a workaround.  The relative goodness of 
that workaround is in the eye of the beholder.  All of my Rivendells have nice 
threaded bridges in back.  None of my Rivendells have a proper fender 
attachment point at the fork crown, so I have to use an L-Bracket there.  
That's a workaround, but I think it's an acceptable workaround.
4.  The most common way of "doing it wrong" in my experience, is trying to do a 
proper fender install with the bike on the ground.  Choosing to try to install 
your own fenders without having the bike in a proper workstand will definitely 
make the job more challenging and probably more frustrating.  Metal fenders in 
particular, with perfectly designed attachment points, require you to remove 
and reinstall the wheels multiple times.  I don't recommend attempting that 
without having the bike in a stand.  If the bike is on the ground, then that 
motivates me to try to do everything with the wheels on, and that just makes it 
harder.
5.  I agree with Michael in his OP that whether or not to choose to use a 
product has little to do with the product itself and almost everything to do 
with the person holding the wrench.  Michael doesn't like installing plastic 
fenders, so he won't do it anymore.  Bravo.  Similarly, I find doing a bleed on 
mineral-oil hydraulic brakes far easier than doing a bleed on D.O.T. fluid 
hydraulic brakes, so I choose to avoid D.O.T. hydraulic brakes.  My choice says 
little objectively about D.O.T. brakes.  My choice says something about my 
mechanical abilities and proclivities.  People who find themselves similar to 
Michael in ability and experience might also decide to stop using plastic 
fenders.  That's totally cool.  I don't like roofing or drain-side plumbing, so 
I pay people to do those things.  I like construction framing and supply-side 
plumbing, so I do those tasks when they arise.  Those choices have more to do 
with me than they have to do with the nature of the tasks.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The first 
pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 70's.  
Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS fenders.  It 
seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them to the brake bolt 
and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, and tightened a nut.  
You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put a little plastic cap over 
the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment.  You were done, until they 
came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal fenders.  They are just a bit more 
challenging, I needed to be more careful in getting them aligned, but once that 
was done, they would stay put for years.



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The 

[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Donald Funke]

Why not use the best of both worlds? On my AHH I used SKS P45s and honjo 
mounting brackets. I used just one screw in the top of the fender so that 
if a stick got caught between the wheel and fender the fender would break 
loose. Looks great, quiet, easy to install. You can buy honjo brackets 
separate from the fenders in a few on-line stores. I have to admit to 
spending 8 hours installing my first set of honjos, only to switch to 
Barlows and have them too tight so I went with the combo.
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/133523714@N05/24213515526/in/datetaken/

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 4:22:49 AM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

I knew roughly what Bill meant by a dram of whiskey -- a modest amount -- but I 
was curious enough about its exact meaning to look it up.  According to the 
U.S. Customary System, a dram is exactly one eighth of a fluid ounce -- less 
than a teaspoon. For fender installation, I personally need more whiskey than 
that!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Bill Lindsay 
> wrote:

I have five thoughts on this subject

1.  I agree that metal fenders look nicer than plastics.  I have no gripes with 
anybody who chooses to use metal fenders exclusively.  That said, I think 
plastics look fine, and are good enough for many things.  I use metals and 
plastics about 50/50 in my stable.
2.  If you are doing it right, metal fenders take a bit longer to install than 
plastics.  If it took 3 hours, you were doing it wrong.  If it required 3 arms 
and a box of ambidextrous luck, you were doing it wrong.  Doing it right should 
take about 40 minutes for plastics and about 60 minutes for metal.  Maybe 80 
minutes for metal if they are not pre-drilled.  I'm speaking roughly and 
generally because usually this process is meditative, and involves a glass of 
wine or dram of whisky.
3.  I agree 100% with Steve Palincsar that the very best fender installs happen 
on bicycles designed perfectly to accept metal fenders.  That means equidistant 
bridges, with a threaded boss already present at the seatstay bridge, the 
chainstay bridge and under the fork crown.  That install takes a while because 
you need to custom drill your fenders for the bike, but that's the very best 
way, in my opinion.  Everything else is a workaround.  The relative goodness of 
that workaround is in the eye of the beholder.  All of my Rivendells have nice 
threaded bridges in back.  None of my Rivendells have a proper fender 
attachment point at the fork crown, so I have to use an L-Bracket there.  
That's a workaround, but I think it's an acceptable workaround.
4.  The most common way of "doing it wrong" in my experience, is trying to do a 
proper fender install with the bike on the ground.  Choosing to try to install 
your own fenders without having the bike in a proper workstand will definitely 
make the job more challenging and probably more frustrating.  Metal fenders in 
particular, with perfectly designed attachment points, require you to remove 
and reinstall the wheels multiple times.  I don't recommend attempting that 
without having the bike in a stand.  If the bike is on the ground, then that 
motivates me to try to do everything with the wheels on, and that just makes it 
harder.
5.  I agree with Michael in his OP that whether or not to choose to use a 
product has little to do with the product itself and almost everything to do 
with the person holding the wrench.  Michael doesn't like installing plastic 
fenders, so he won't do it anymore.  Bravo.  Similarly, I find doing a bleed on 
mineral-oil hydraulic brakes far easier than doing a bleed on D.O.T. fluid 
hydraulic brakes, so I choose to avoid D.O.T. hydraulic brakes.  My choice says 
little objectively about D.O.T. brakes.  My choice says something about my 
mechanical abilities and proclivities.  People who find themselves similar to 
Michael in ability and experience might also decide to stop using plastic 
fenders.  That's totally cool.  I don't like roofing or drain-side plumbing, so 
I pay people to do those things.  I like construction framing and supply-side 
plumbing, so I do those tasks when they arise.  Those choices have more to do 
with me than they have to do with the nature of the tasks.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The first 
pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 70's.  
Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS fenders.  It 
seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them to the brake bolt 
and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, and tightened a nut.  
You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put a little plastic cap over 
the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment.  You were done, until they 
came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal fenders.  They are just a bit more 
challenging, I needed to be more careful in getting them aligned, but once that 
was done, they would stay put for years.



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[RBW] In search of beer - lompoc saison de l'evolution

[Belopsky]

I was recently in Portland,OR and had some lompoc  saison de l'evolution

So good. Now I am in Michigan and long for it - can anyone ship me some 
bottles? I *think* they bottle it.. 

A bit off topic I know but...

Thanks

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Brian Campbell]

I am pro glue and anti zip tie, when it comes to wires on a bike. I am pro 
zip tie when it comes to attaching a Wald basket to a Nitto rack. I do 
realize that I probably best represent what is wrong with this country 
today;-)

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 1:41:23 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Even though I ignore Anton's disapproval, I celebrate his approval.  ;-)
>
> Just for perspective, Anton can cringe when he sees a ziptie on a 
> nice bike if he wants to cringe.  On the other hand, 
> Anton enthusiastically endorses the inventive and discreetly executed 
> method of gluing wire guides onto a bicycle, fender or rack.  I bet there 
> are people out there who would cringe at the act of gluing stuff onto your 
> bike.  They can cringe if they want.  Anton obviously has a justification 
> for why zipties are a lowbrow hack and why glue is not a lowbrow hack, but 
> he doesn't need to have a justification.  Each individual can dismiss an 
> option if they want to dismiss it.  Alternatively, if you want, you can 
> include all options.  If somebody wants to consider an option only for 
> bikes of a certain price range or level of niceness, that's fine, too.  I 
> think it's unfortunate when a personal bias causes you to tell somebody 
> else that their bike looks terrible or trashed out, but if you can't help 
> it, then you can't help it.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 8:39:50 AM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> Thank God. ;-)
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 1:42:39 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> I have one bike that has a VeloLumino sitcker on it.  That bike features 
>>> two ingenious VeloLumino products.  That bike has no zip ties on it.  
>>>
>>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[sameness]

*B*ill
*R*esents
*G*oogle

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Bill Lindsay]

Bring it on!  Unless otherwise stated, please please assume my response to 
each photo is:

*Fantastic bike!  I would have chosen a different color, but I hope it 
brings you thousands of happy miles!*

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 9:51:28 AM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[WETH]

My son's bike: https://flic.kr/p/o47xfw
Good old rustoleum spray paint!!

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Bill Lindsay]

Even though I ignore Anton's disapproval, I celebrate his approval.  ;-)

Just for perspective, Anton can cringe when he sees a ziptie on a 
nice bike if he wants to cringe.  On the other hand, 
Anton enthusiastically endorses the inventive and discreetly executed 
method of gluing wire guides onto a bicycle, fender or rack.  I bet there 
are people out there who would cringe at the act of gluing stuff onto your 
bike.  They can cringe if they want.  Anton obviously has a justification 
for why zipties are a lowbrow hack and why glue is not a lowbrow hack, but 
he doesn't need to have a justification.  Each individual can dismiss an 
option if they want to dismiss it.  Alternatively, if you want, you can 
include all options.  If somebody wants to consider an option only for 
bikes of a certain price range or level of niceness, that's fine, too.  I 
think it's unfortunate when a personal bias causes you to tell somebody 
else that their bike looks terrible or trashed out, but if you can't help 
it, then you can't help it.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 8:39:50 AM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> Thank God. ;-)
>
> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 1:42:39 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I have one bike that has a VeloLumino sitcker on it.  That bike features 
>> two ingenious VeloLumino products.  That bike has no zip ties on it.  
>>
>>


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[RBW] RE: RE: RBW Listers Take Over The West Point Inn, June 24 & 25 - Join us there!!! Proposed Ride.

[Hugh Smitham]

Hi Folks,

I think my post to the original got buried. 

I wanted to throw out this ride as a potential Saturday ride from the Inn 
and back with a stop at the Marin Museum of Bicycling. At first glance it 
looks like a formidable ride 32 miles and 6200' elevation but we have all 
day to do this ride. I purpose we bring a lunch with us and eat out on the 
trail. Of course not all are up for a ride like this. I encourage folks to 
chime in with a plan "B" and "C" route(s) maybe a bail out on my route 
where we all meet at a specific time at the museum for a tour and a really 
mellow ride staying closer to the Inn.

Without further fanfare here's the route 
. 

Your thoughts?

~Hugh
  Los Angeles, CA

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Bill Lindsay]

I have five thoughts on this subject

1.  I agree that metal fenders look nicer than plastics.  I have no gripes 
with anybody who chooses to use metal fenders exclusively.  That said, I 
think plastics look fine, and are good enough for many things.  I use 
metals and plastics about 50/50 in my stable.
2.  If you are doing it right, metal fenders take a bit longer to install 
than plastics.  If it took 3 hours, you were doing it wrong.  If it 
required 3 arms and a box of ambidextrous luck, you were doing it wrong. 
 Doing it right should take about 40 minutes for plastics and about 60 
minutes for metal.  Maybe 80 minutes for metal if they are not pre-drilled. 
 I'm speaking roughly and generally because usually this process is 
meditative, and involves a glass of wine or dram of whisky.  
3.  I agree 100% with Steve Palincsar that the very best fender installs 
happen on bicycles designed perfectly to accept metal fenders.  That means 
equidistant bridges, with a threaded boss already present at the seatstay 
bridge, the chainstay bridge and under the fork crown.  That install takes 
a while because you need to custom drill your fenders for the bike, but 
that's the very best way, in my opinion.  Everything else is a workaround. 
 The relative goodness of that workaround is in the eye of the beholder. 
 All of my Rivendells have nice threaded bridges in back.  None of my 
Rivendells have a proper fender attachment point at the fork crown, so I 
have to use an L-Bracket there.  That's a workaround, but I think it's an 
acceptable workaround. 
4.  The most common way of "doing it wrong" in my experience, is trying to 
do a proper fender install with the bike on the ground.  Choosing to try to 
install your own fenders without having the bike in a proper workstand will 
definitely make the job more challenging and probably more frustrating. 
 Metal fenders in particular, with perfectly designed attachment points, 
require you to remove and reinstall the wheels multiple times.  I don't 
recommend attempting that without having the bike in a stand.  If the bike 
is on the ground, then that motivates me to try to do everything with the 
wheels on, and that just makes it harder. 
5.  I agree with Michael in his OP that whether or not to choose to use a 
product has little to do with the product itself and almost everything to 
do with the person holding the wrench.  Michael doesn't like installing 
plastic fenders, so he won't do it anymore.  Bravo.  Similarly, I find 
doing a bleed on mineral-oil hydraulic brakes far easier than doing a bleed 
on D.O.T. fluid hydraulic brakes, so I choose to avoid D.O.T. hydraulic 
brakes.  My choice says little objectively about D.O.T. brakes.  My choice 
says something about my mechanical abilities and proclivities.  People who 
find themselves similar to Michael in ability and experience might also 
decide to stop using plastic fenders.  That's totally cool.  I don't like 
roofing or drain-side plumbing, so I pay people to do those things.  I like 
construction framing and supply-side plumbing, so I do those tasks when 
they arise.  Those choices have more to do with me than they have to do 
with the nature of the tasks.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Michael Hechmer]

Rollex Redux: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B02GJDfWGGpgoAQ

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:51:28 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I love that color so this should be a fun topic!

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[RBW] Re: fs/t - New Pair Compass Strada Bianca 700c x 30mm

[Ron Mc]

oops, sorry I carried a brain burp in the title - Challenge Strada Biancas

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 11:13:16 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> sale pending

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[RBW] Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[David Banzer]

All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
David 
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Philip Kim]

Agreed. I also found the stays seem a bit flimsy holding the weight of the 
plastic fenders. Doesn't really seem to hook up strong like the wrap around 
fender stays of aluminum. I've had the VO alum fenders, and went to SKS for 
a few bikes, but my next set of fenders, I'm going back to VO Fenders.

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 6:22:49 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: fs/t - New Pair Compass Strada Bianca 700c x 30mm

[Ron Mc]

sale pending

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Re: [RBW] Re: New project

[Ryan Fleming]

Tom, I was snooping and saw your Rasta Clem which I thought was pretty darn 
coolhave you finished it and do you like the Choco bars? Also, how do 
you decide which bike to pick for the day, you have a truly dizzying array 
of choices! I'm BRG with envy!

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 5:17:15 PM UTC-5, Marc40a wrote:
>
>
> Wow. 
>
> Big fan of British racing green.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks B17 ($50 shipped), 2x XT front deraillers ($15 shipped each), Shimano UN55 68 x 115mm Bottom Bracket ($15 shipped)

[Belopsky]

ONLY the direct mount derailler is left - $15

I also have - shipping included - 

2x bags of nipples. Looks like more than enough to build 4 wheels but I 
have no idea..they are silver, no idea if they are brass.. $10 shipped
1x White nitto stem (racey kind) from an old Cannondale - lots of wear 
(someone tried to take the white off..) $10 shipped
1x Shimano down tube shifter mounted to a bar end pod - I think Shimano 600 
- not sure if it's front or back, pod's worth the cost IMO? $10 shipped

Take all of this for $35 shipped

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[RBW] fs/t - New Pair Compass Strada Bianca 700c x 30mm

[Ron Mc]

Two new, unused tires, one still boxed (the other has been kept folded in a 
ziplok.  
My experience is they measure 32mm and work best on narrow rims.  
Tan wall.  



They're fast and supple tires.  Stretching the first time can be tough, but 
the algorithm is start and finish at the valve stem.  

They run best well below rated pressure, 55-65 psi (down to 50 in front), 
and work well on all roads.  

Asking $80 including priority mail to US for the pair, prefer paypal, and 
will also trade the pair for one new Barlow EL with tan wall.  


Please contact off board if possible.  

Thanks for looking

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[RBW] FS: Odds and Ends

[Joe Bernard]

What size is the Litespeed?

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Thank God. ;-)

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 1:42:39 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I have one bike that has a VeloLumino sitcker on it.  That bike features 
> two ingenious VeloLumino products.  That bike has no zip ties on it.  
>
>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Ron Mc]

Major Honjo fan here, but I also like my SKS raceblades (XL) on the bike 
with no bosses - they work with my Barlows and I adding a PDW Origami on 
the seat tube makes them close enough to full coverage.  


After getting them properly adjusted, they're 2 min. total to install, and 
30s to remove.  

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Mark's Rack

[Belopsky]

I have a Surly Straggler and need something adjustable..

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Re: [RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Will]

Good point. If I had the tail light mounted on the fender I'd need metal. 
As it is I'm running a Topline on a Tubus rack. Love the Topline. Great 
rear light. 

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 7:44:21 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> I had SKS fenders on my Longstaff for many years.  Bluemels would have 
> been the perfect choice, had they been available -- epitome of classic 
> British framebuilding coupled with the traditional British fender -- but 
> when I switched from a sidewall generator driven tail light to a Pixeo 
> battery light the rear fender cracked at the lamp mount.  A replacement 
> fender (a take-off from the Rambouillet I used to own [hence obligatory Riv 
> content]) cracked in the identical place.  So last Christmas I decided to 
> buy something new.
>
> At the time, Longboards were within a few dollars of the price of VO metal 
> fenders during their Christmas sale, so I got these  
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders/700c/vo-polished-45mm-facette-fenders-700c.html
>
>
>
> Here they are on the bike:
>
>
>
> As Will said of his P65s, great coverage, light, quiet and better 
> looking.  Standard Honjo-type install, with all that means.  They are 
> pre-drilled.
>
> On 06/09/2016 08:20 AM, Will wrote:
>
> Meh... I'm using P65s. Great coverage. Light. Quiet. Better looking. :-)
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 5:22:49 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote: 
>>
>> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
>> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
>> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
>> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
>> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
>> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
>> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
>> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
>> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
>> years. 
>>
>> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
>> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
>> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
>> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
>> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
>> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
>> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
>> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>>
>> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
>> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
>> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
>> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
>> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
>> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
>> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>>
>> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
>> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>>
>> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
>> later today.
>>
>> Michael
>>
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[RBW] FS: Odds and Ends

[Eric Karnes]

Continuing my (late) spring cleaning after getting my Roadeo. It's coming 
along nicely after changing the gearing a bit, adding a SaddleSack, and the 
slightly narrower bars. Anyways, here's what I have:

Riv-built 700c wheelset. Velocity Twin Hollow rims and Tiagra hubs. Good 
condition. Came off my Roadeo demo purchased a few months ago. $100 if 
you’re willing to pick them up local from me in Center City Philadelphia.


Nitto Tallux (26mm) 11cm stem. Good condition. Also came off the Roadeo. 
$45 shipped conus.


Selle Anatomica Tru-leather Vintage X-series saddle. Ridden for half a 
season or so. Little less than half the bolt left. Annoying metal badge 
removed from the back edge. $60 shipped conus. Would also be interested in 
trading towards a Brooks C17.


Set of Pararacer Pari-moto 38mm 650b tires. Barely ridden…maybe 30 miles. 
No tread wear. $50 shipped conus.


I also still have the Riv-ish Cross-Check Jones Bar touring build and 
Litespeed Single-speed (1000 and 800 respectively shipped conus...100 less 
if picked up locally) if anyone is still interested before I go the Ebay 
route.


Email me off list if interested and want details, photos, etc. Thanks!


Eric

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[GAJett]

Must agree with Michael.  Installed Bluemels years ago without much 
problem.  Several years ago installed SKS on a 26-inch utility bike.  Took 
over 3 hours, never got the alignment right, and a fender stay came loose, 
losing the hardware, within weeks of handing the bike over to a family 
member (who is admittedly rough on equipment).  I have little problems with 
other bike maintenance issues from cable replacement to wheel building, but 
that was my last set of SKS's.
gajett

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Will]

Meh... I'm using P65s. Great coverage. Light. Quiet. Better looking. :-)

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 5:22:49 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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Re: [RBW] Plastic fenders - never again

[Garth]

  That's what I did Jeff , just cut the end off the plastic, end of drama.  
Having and enclosed end serves no real purpose anyways.  

Michael, this little bit has nothing to do with the fender overall so don't 
let it ruin your day :) 

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[RBW] Plastic fenders - never again

[Michael Hechmer]

I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
 You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
years.

Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
 The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
want them to be.  All together annoying. 

Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.

Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.

BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
later today.

Michael

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??

[Garth]

... and once again and still undefeated. The Debate for the win !  
Ahahahaahahahahahahahahahha !

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[RBW] Re: Fancy pants Clem build...soon to be CleMTB

[Michael Hechmer]

Very nice job.  I take it this will be a town cruiser, or are all those low 
gears for mountain climbing?  In either case,  enjoy the ride.  Good choice 
of tires.  This year, on the tandem we went from from 1.5 Marathon Racers, 
a pretty good tire, to 1.75 Compass tires and I have been amazed at how 
much more comfortable the extra 6 mm have been.

Michael

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:03:00 AM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> Some folks may know that I acquired one of the first run 59cm Clem 
> framesets a while back, in a green color not too dissimilar from that which 
> my ancestors across the pond applied to their racing automobiles (sorry 
> Bill).  It's taken me a while to get around to building it up, but after 
> much berating from my wife, who herself bought a matching green 52cm Clem 
> from the demo fleet, I've finally acquired everything I needed and got it 
> rolling!  Pictures are here, apologies for the poor quality of my current 
> cell phone camera: 
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskBihWen
>
> My original intent was kind of a Riv/Jones mashup, focused on offroading, 
> but the initial build has ended up a little different.  The wheels are 
> prototype Silver hubs, acquired at a Riv garage sale a couple of years 
> back, laced to the new Velocity Cliffhanger rim, which is basically a 
> completely current mtb rim (30mm wide and tubeless compatible) but with a 
> rim brake track.  Crank is a Coda (Cannondale) branded Sugino 94/58 triple, 
> current setup as a 36/22 double.  I was able to source a pretty complete 
> 9spd Shimano XT/SLX/Deore component spec, including XT v-brakes and the 
> awesome Deore T611 mechanical brake levers.  Scouring around for a seatpost 
> in the weirdo 29.8mm size, all I found were cheap Kalloys and blingy 
> Thomsons, and I wanted two bolts, so...Thomson it was!  All in all, it came 
> out to a pretty deluxe parts spec, kind of ironic for what's supposed to be 
> Rivendell's "budget" bike.  
>
> After I got the wheels laced up a couple of days ago things started to 
> gain momentum and the build took on a life of its own.  Stole the Technomic 
> deluxe stem, Avenir Circa handlebar, and Ergon grips off my Quickbeam.  I'm 
> still waiting on some tubeless knobbies to come in for it, but I just 
> happened to have a pair of Specialized "Fatboy" 29x1.75's around, fat 
> gumwall slicks in Specialized's otherwise ho-hum tire lineup.  The XT front 
> derailleur ended up a needing a shim that I didn't have, so I just left it 
> off in the Riv Mystery Bike/Kick Shift tradition.  So as it came together 
> as a speedy upright cruiser.  The fit with swept-back bars is totally 
> dialed, and the fat slicks are awesome.  They may be staying on for a 
> while.  Excited to ride it more!
>

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[RBW] TrunkSack shaped/sized wire Basket?

[Garth]

A shoe cobbler should be able to replace snaps. Also, there are many videos on 
yt on replacing snaps in leather.  The press and snap tool is not inexpensive 
but that depends on perspective.  Wire baskets top mounted may break too btw 
and considering the type of riding you do it would likely be a matter of when.  
A porteur rack with a fence sounds like something that would work for you in 
that you can strap your bag and even more !

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[RBW] Re: Anybody not receiving RBW digest emails?

[Hugh Smitham]

I was getting 4 abridged emails a day. Now back to once a day.

~Hugh

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 3:46:18 AM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Since I posted this, my RBW emails have been hitting my inbox four or five 
> at a clip over a 24 hour period. I think I am basically caught up. Maybe 
> something to do with server traffic or a googleglitch.
>
> On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:09:36 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>
>> Mark, same here. After about a week of not receiving the e-mails one 
>> finally appeared today. 
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBW Listers Take Over The West Point Inn, June 24 & 25 - Join us there!!!

[Hugh Smitham]

Hi Folks,

I wanted to throw out this ride as a potential Saturday ride from the Inn
and back with a stop at the Marin Museum of Bicycling. At first glance it
looks like a formidable ride 32 miles and 6200' elevation but we have all
day to do this ride. I purpose we bring a lunch with us and eat out on the
trail. Of course not all are up for a ride like this. I encourage folks to
chime in with a plan "B" and "C" route(s) maybe a bail out on my route
where we all meet at a specific time at the museum for a tour and a really
mellow ride staying closer to the Inn.

Without further fanfare here's the route
.

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipeedemusings.com/

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