Re: [RBW] Where are the Brompton Owners or A Case of the Novembers

[Joe Bernard]

I shall be the owner of a black M3L tomorrow...with an electric kit! It's a 
low-tech/low-power front wheel motor with a thumb throttle, intended to be an 
assist on steep stuff or when you're just cold and tired and want to get home. 
My first Brompton after admiring them for years, it should fit in my little 
Fiat 500 Abarth just great :)

Joe "a little help, please" Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wtb/bar end shifter question

[Bill in Roswell GA]

Very cool solution, Patrick. I later read your comment about ordering a 13 
first position and a 30/31/32 single big ring. Maybe that is what Steve P 
did on his franken-cassette. Sounds like an ideal solution for my CX bike w 
46/34 up front and lots of hills I have to ride because I live at the top 
of one of the bigger ones around! 

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 8:46:11 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I inadvertently proved today that Silver shifters can shift 10 speeds, if 
> not mountain or Dynasys (I know nothing about those). I replaced the 
> Bontrager 44/40/26 triple with a Logic on a offset 130 Phil, with 42/28 
> rings, so I had to change my cassette. For me, this means dumping the cog 
> box onto the floor and scrambling around to find the right sizes -- the 
> collection includes Uniglides, 7s, 8s, 9s, and apparently even some 10s. I 
> found the butt end of a cassette, 3 cogs riveted together on a spider, 
> 21-23-27, which looked just right for the big end, so I put that on. I 
> wasn't paying attention, so I just shoved the other cogs on with 9 speed 
> spacers, and was a bit disconcerted to find (a) that the lockring had to be 
> pushed hard to engage the threads, and (b) that I had to adjust the inner 
> limit screw. The 9 speed SRAM chain shifted fine.
>
> Then I looked more closely and found that I had a home-brew 10 speed: 
> 13-27. That would have been very good news, except that my hub seems 
> incompatible with dished big cogs; the inside of the 27 lightly rubbed the 
> spokes. When I substituted a "flat" big, I could no longer squeeze 10 onto 
> the freehub body.
>
> But the Silver BESs shifted the 9 speed chain very nicely across all 10 of 
> the cogs.
>
> Given my experience, I will now simply buy some 10 speed spacers (if I can 
> find a source that doesn't charge $7 to $18 per) and a new chain, and build 
> my own 10 speed cassette. I think that the ~2 mm saved by the narrower 
> spacers will more than make up for the absence of a dished inner cog.
>
> Anyway, an interesting experience -- 10 speeds with 9 speed spacing on a 
> Shimano freehub.
>
> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 6:36 PM, Jon BALER  
> wrote:
>
>> Shimano 10 speed mountain/dynasys needs more cable pull than traditional 
>> friction shifters, so you can't use just any shifter.
>>
>> Microshift is the only compatible bar end shifter that i know of.   There 
>> are other options for friction shifting for downtube or thumb shifting that 
>> will work with dynasys.
>>
>> There is also a modification that I have used to make a 9 speed shifter 
>> work. Take a dremel to the shifter and increase the lever travel.
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
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> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Anton Tutter]

I did say 'surprisingly'.


On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 10:21:58 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 12/08/2016 08:58 PM, Anton Tutter wrote: 
> > A lot of names in 650B revival weren't mentioned, but surprisingly 
> > Jeff Lyon's L'Avecaise custom, which few people outside of the Bicycle 
> > Quarterly universe know of, was mentioned. 
>
> RBR is definitely within the "Bicycle Quarterly universe" 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albastache on what frame?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I've got the MAP/Ahearne bars on my Kogswell P/R and like them very much, 
though I have to use a long stem to get them far enough away for the 
(fairly aggressive, forward-weighted) posture I want on the bike. I find 
them extremely comfortable with Ergon GC1 grips and huge 4-finger brake 
levers. There's a nice secondary hand position on the forward curves, and 
at least with these levers I've still got plenty of access to the brakes up 
there. Definitely worth a try!

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 9:04:33 AM UTC-8, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
> Apologies as I don't want to steer this from the intended topic of the 
> Albastache but you mentioned you had used the MAP bars.  I just got 
> MAP/Ahearne and they looked great for modified bar/go fast type.  Care to 
> comment on that?
> thanks and back to Albastache
>

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[RBW] Re: Albastache on what frame?

[Jeremy Tavan]

Curious to hear how this project works out. I've got my local shop building 
up a 1960s-vintage Harry Quinn in 531 for me as a 3-speed commuter, and 
will be using Albastache bars on it at least at first. 

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 8:47:41 AM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I'm starting to think that the Redwood might be a good fit. The Monster 
> Cross I use the drops quite a bit. 
> The Redwood is converted to 650b with WTB Horizon tires. I use the drop 
> portion much less on the Redwood. So maybe that might be the right bike to 
> try it out on. Then I might need a Roadini if taller sizes are made to fill 
> in my 'road' bike slot.
> A Hunqapillar with albastaches would be ideal, but it's not in the budget 
> right now. A used one probably, but a new one probably not for a few years.
> Things to ponder.
>
> On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 10:21:45 PM UTC-6, dstein wrote:
>>
>> I applaud your itch to build up a bike around a handlebar, i feel each 
>> bike should have a decidedly different cockpit. I have an albastached on my 
>> hunqapillar and as a serial cockpit swapper i've tried jones, map, dirt 
>> drops, and something else I can't remember but always go back to 
>> albastache. I feel they work on any bike you would have put drops on 
>> because the reach puts you in an aero position like drops would, but you 
>> also have the benefit of uprights. What about your black mountain? I like 
>> mine on the hunq b/c its my all rounder and trail bike. Seems the Black 
>> Mountain might fit that bill for you as well. If not I'd try and score an 
>> XO-1 or an MB-1 or something dirt and trail oriented that I can fit wider 
>> tires on and use for an all rounder.
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 6:17:05 AM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:
>>>
>>> So I've had an itch to build up an Albastache'd bike. Might be silly to 
>>> build up a bike only to have another handlebar option, but I'm ok with that.
>>> My goal is to find an older mtb as a winter project and build it up with 
>>> Albastache bars. 
>>> Assuming the bars work out for me, I'd like to swap things over to a 
>>> newer frameset.
>>>
>>> My question is:
>>> Which frame would work well with Albastache bars assuming I want a 
>>> semi-upright yet still a tad aggressive setup?
>>> As this is the Riv list, Rivendell frames obviously should be in the 
>>> mix, but other frame suggestions are welcomed.
>>>
>>> Ideally new bike would not overlap with current bikes/handlebar setups 
>>> which are:
>>> Riv Clem - Albatross
>>> Riv Redwood - drops, Nitto B132
>>> Black Mountain Monster Cross - drops, Nitto B132
>>> VO Campeur - shortened Albatross w/ inverse brake levers
>>>
>>> David
>>> winter project dreaming when I should be working in Chicago, IL
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Quality of Sugino Alpina2 cranks nowhere near that of original model Alpina

[Bill in Roswell GA]

I think you should get a refund and/or replacement. There is no excuse for 
lack of quality control, regardless of where it's made.

Cheers
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:04:50 AM UTC-5, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> I own a pair of the original model Sugino Alpina cranks, which are about 
> as nicely finished as any crank I've owned. So when I needed another set of 
> cranks I had no hesitation in ordering a set of the Sugino Alpina2 cranks, 
> thinking they would be of equivalent quality. However, when they arrived, I 
> found that the quality of the finish is nowhere near the same level. To wit:
>
> - the polishing on the new cranks is inferior
>
> - on the new cranks the grinding marks between the spider arms have not 
> been polished out as had been done on the older Alpina
>
> - on the new cranks, there is not a consistent thickness of all the spider 
> arms. In the linked photo, if you look at the spider arm nearest the crank, 
> the surface of it is about 1mm higher where it meets the chainring compared 
> to the other spider arms.
>
> - on the new cranks, the webbing where the spiders each side of the 
> crankarm meet the crank is much thinner, creating a location where a stress 
> fracture can start - on the original model, this webbing had been ground 
> back and then polished to reduce the chance of failure here. In the past 
> I've had to retire a set of Campagnolo NR and SR cranks because cracks 
> appeared at this location due to the thinness of the metal at this high 
> stress location.
>
> Original model Alpina (click on image for larger size)
>
>
> 
>
>
> New model Alpina2 (click on image for larger size)
>
>
> 
>
>
> So my suggestion would be, if you want a 110/74 crank: buy the XD instead. 
> The quality of finish is much the same and it's substantially cheaper.
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Trail calculator

[Bill in Roswell GA]

Good to post, Les. FWIW, it's been around a hot minute. I don't recall if 
Jim or Sheldon came up with it, as it was a further back than my memory can 
handle. 

Use the "compare bikes" link at the bottom to view your current rides to 
others. 

Very handy tool to have!

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell who first found Riv and iBob around 2007 after I found out 
my knee was done with running and I would therefore have to become a full 
time cyclist

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 6:09:30 PM UTC-5, Les Lammers wrote:
>
> This will allow comparison of different frames and give a pretty good idea 
> of how the steering will be. Out of curiosity, I compared a 55 Sam to a 55 
> Chevoit using the Riv geometry chart. So close that the difference is 
> negligible.
>
> http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php
>

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Bill in Roswell GA]

I find it a bit funny that we never hear about the Berthoud saddles any 
more. I guess most folks realized that a Brooks/Rivet/SA is more 
comfortable for most people. However, even a used Berthoud goes for not 
much less than near new price. Would be interesting to try one as I tend to 
like saddles a bit on the firm side. 

Years ago, I found a 1978 B17 on ebay for $32. I really wanted to try one 
out without the break-in period. It was like putting on an old pair of 
bluejeans. Being of thicker leather that Brooks used back then, it is still 
going strong (it's on my coffee shop bike, ridden 3-5 miles a few times a 
week in nice weather - never rain!). 

Hope to get a C17 soon as I can find one on sale or have a coupon. 

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 1:22:48 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
> sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
> past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
>  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
> Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
> wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
> people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember some 
> people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
> thoughts comparing these 3 choices?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Bill in Roswell GA]

Just pull the liners out at the end of the day. Same goes for any boot, 
pull the insoles out. Things will dry out overnight with the liners/insoles 
out of the boot as long as they are inside (and not on the unheated 
rain/snow porch). 

Cheers 
Bill in Roswell where frozen precip is a rare event

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 10:18:13 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>
> Alright. I went with some lightly used sorels off eBay with a more treaded 
> sole and removable liners. Been seeing mostly rain, mud and ice so far, so 
> I hope I didn't over do it in the warmth department. I hadn't considered 
> the dryablitly of the liners, but its all making sense now. Much 
> appreciated.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Deacon Patrick]

Good deal, Drew.  The more you use them the more you'll learn. Short the 
below 0˚F zone, the most dangerous temp zone is wet and sloppy (45˚F-20˚F, 
depending on conditions). Pick up some extra socks and liners, and you'll 
have room to screw up, learn, and change into something dry. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 8:18:13 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> Alright. I went with some lightly used sorels off eBay with a more treaded 
> sole and removable liners. Been seeing mostly rain, mud and ice so far, so 
> I hope I didn't over do it in the warmth department. I hadn't considered 
> the dryablitly of the liners, but its all making sense now. Much 
> appreciated.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sugino XD2, Ultegra RD, IRD Thumbies, Microshift, Pletscher double kickstands

[Ryan Thompson]

Crankset, shifters and Ultegra derailleur have sold.  Here's what remains:

2. IRD thumb shifters mounts with shims. $50 shipped

5. Two Pletscher double leg kickstands.  One is cut at 280 and has no feet, 
the other is cut at 270 and has feet.  These were installed on my 58 Sam 
Hillborne and 60 Cheviot. $30 each

6. New set of Dia Compe 988 cantilever brakes. $40

Pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/135783646@N08/albums/72157673662519603

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Steve Palincsar]

On 12/08/2016 08:58 PM, Anton Tutter wrote:
A lot of names in 650B revival weren't mentioned, but surprisingly 
Jeff Lyon's L'Avecaise custom, which few people outside of the Bicycle 
Quarterly universe know of, was mentioned.


RBR is definitely within the "Bicycle Quarterly universe"

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Re: [RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[drew]

Alright. I went with some lightly used sorels off eBay with a more treaded sole 
and removable liners. Been seeing mostly rain, mud and ice so far, so I hope I 
didn't over do it in the warmth department. I hadn't considered the dryablitly 
of the liners, but its all making sense now. Much appreciated.

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[RBW] FS- Jeff Lyon custom lugged road/randonneuring 58cm - $1400

[KevinS]

Is this bike still available? If so can you provide me with stand over height? 
Thanks

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Sam Hillborne 55ish

[Belopsky]

Make me an offer. 

On Friday, December 2, 2016 at 2:48:00 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> UP
>
> On Sunday, November 13, 2016 at 3:40:28 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> Pretty standard Rivendell build. 
>>
>> Shimano brake levers
>> Tectro canti brakes.
>> Shimano bar end shifters
>> Sugino XD2 triple crankset
>> IRD Front derailleur 
>> Deore rear derailleur 
>> Synergy 36 h wheels XT hubs
>> Nitto Technomic stem
>> Nitto Campee front rack
>> Nitto Albatross bars
>>
>> TT. C-C. 57
>> ST. C-T. 55
>>
>> Pedals, seat, wire basket, and rear bag *not* included. 
>>
>> Too big for me. Got it locally and it works for commuting with the pull 
>> back bars but I'm trying to build up a drop bar bike and well gotta n-1 
>> myself.
>>
>> Photo Album: http://imgur.com/a/lEPAZ
>>
>> Shows the bike, some of the components, and the knicks. No dents on the 
>> frame.
>>
>> Rides great, everything works/shifts well. Tires in great shape as well.
>>
>> Message me off list please
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Anton Tutter]

A lot of names in 650B revival weren't mentioned, but surprisingly Jeff 
Lyon's L'Avecaise custom, which few people outside of the Bicycle Quarterly 
universe know of, was mentioned.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 6:02:14 PM UTC-5, Les Lammers wrote:
>
> No mention of Riv?
>
> On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:26:43 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>>
>> https://www.roadbikerider.com/latest-rbr-newsletter-2016/258-issue-no-740/2536-a-new-wheel-tire-size-to-consider
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Jon Dukeman]

That's good info Patrick .I used to have a pair of suede pull overs and
they were very warm .  I couldn't wear them in summer too warm.

On Dec 8, 2016 4:26 PM, "Deacon Patrick"  wrote:

The concepts on winter boots I've learned:

wet and sloppy (wet and 45˚ down to 20˚F): keep outside moisture out, even
if it means rubber bottoms/oiled leather. Swap liners and socks to allow
for drying. Feet often get wet from not being able to breathe. The trick is
to anticipate this and swap liners as needed.

Everything colder than 20˚F: highly breathable and wind blocking outer
(suede is great!) with plenty of upsizing and extra layers (with lots of
room for those layers) -- the idea being to evaporate moisture away while
out and about so feet stay dry and warm. Give liners time to dry, and extra
liners help.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 1:46:58 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> ive been spending my weekends working on a little cabin and some land near
> Yosemite. I'm from LA, and while my hiking boots have performed pretty good
> so far, I now find myself in the cold, wet, muddy zones more frequently.
> I'm looking for boots that can handle some water, slush, cold and solid
> thrashing. They won't see deep snow that often though, but should be
> useable on icy roads and rocks.
> I almost bought some sorells before remembering that you guys usually have
> more thoughtful and unexpected brand recommendations. Budget conscious
> options are always appreciated

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Bill M.]

It's fine if I click on it to display it in another window.

Bill

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 10:56:19 AM UTC-8, ian m wrote:
>
> I just realized the picture I posted is strangely squished, don't know how 
> that happened. Still not sure how that would equate to thinking it was 
> stretched beyond the tension bolt

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Deacon Patrick]

The concepts on winter boots I've learned:

wet and sloppy (wet and 45˚ down to 20˚F): keep outside moisture out, even 
if it means rubber bottoms/oiled leather. Swap liners and socks to allow 
for drying. Feet often get wet from not being able to breathe. The trick is 
to anticipate this and swap liners as needed. 

Everything colder than 20˚F: highly breathable and wind blocking outer 
(suede is great!) with plenty of upsizing and extra layers (with lots of 
room for those layers) -- the idea being to evaporate moisture away while 
out and about so feet stay dry and warm. Give liners time to dry, and extra 
liners help.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 1:46:58 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> ive been spending my weekends working on a little cabin and some land near 
> Yosemite. I'm from LA, and while my hiking boots have performed pretty good 
> so far, I now find myself in the cold, wet, muddy zones more frequently. 
> I'm looking for boots that can handle some water, slush, cold and solid 
> thrashing. They won't see deep snow that often though, but should be 
> useable on icy roads and rocks.
> I almost bought some sorells before remembering that you guys usually have 
> more thoughtful and unexpected brand recommendations. Budget conscious 
> options are always appreciated

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[RBW] Trail calculator

[Les Lammers]

This will allow comparison of different frames and give a pretty good idea 
of how the steering will be. Out of curiosity, I compared a 55 Sam to a 55 
Chevoit using the Riv geometry chart. So close that the difference is 
negligible.

http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php

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[RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Les Lammers]

No mention of Riv?

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:26:43 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>
>
> https://www.roadbikerider.com/latest-rbr-newsletter-2016/258-issue-no-740/2536-a-new-wheel-tire-size-to-consider

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Jon Dukeman,central Colorado]

The storm chaser boot only comes in "D"width ,too wide for me. Plus the outside 
width looks as wide as my sorrels.

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Jon Dukeman,central Colorado]

I'm going to our local LL bean tomorrow to look at the bean boots.Mainly to 
check sizing with my thick wool socks.
They are out of the medium and narrow in my size but they have the ones 
without the Thinsulate to try and also they have the shearling inserts. The 
ll Bean 8" boot is back ordered until February.
I'll check out the storm chaser if they have it.
Jon

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:53:19 PM UTC-7, Jim D Massachusetts 
wrote:

> I found my LLBean boots very comfortable. However, the traction on ice was 
> not great with the "chain" sole. Their storm chaser boots look like a 
> better option and I would think the stiffer sole would be better to ride 
> in. Jim D.Massachusetts
>
> On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 7:41:35 AM UTC-5, Michael Rivers wrote:
>>
>> LL Bean boots. Warm, long lasting. Living in the Northeast for years 
>> these handle mud, sand, snow when it's cold, and just get hosed off when 
>> dirty. I sound like a shill, but after 40 years of using this boot it just 
>> works.
>>
>>
>> http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/33549?feat=506794-GN2=men-s-l-l-bean-boots-8-thinsulate
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Ron Mc]

that's exactly what Team Pro is for - it's shaped very different from B17

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:06:52 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>
> If the B-17 is the wrong shape for drop-bar riding, what about the Team 
> Pro?  I've had several of those over the years on road bikes and the only 
> thing I didn't like about it was the lack of bag loops (which can be 
> rectified by an add-on device).
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 9:22:59 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> OK, but this was the first 8 miles on my first S-A - it stretched so much 
>> the front of the saddle actually let go of the stretch bolt - this was 
>> stopped at a bike shop to borrow some tools to fix it.  
>> This took most of the stretch bolt and finally bent a rail.  
>>
>>
>> 
>> I have 10,000 mi on a B17 Select and took just a little stretch bolt in 
>> the summer when I was sweating heavily.  
>>
>>
>> 
>> I'm also pushing that distance on my Rivet Indy.  
>> It's one of the first Debra made and developed the problem of a ridge 
>> behind the slot, I think because the radius of that rear hole was too 
>> small.  
>> She solved this problem by increasing the diameter of the rear slot hole 
>> - I think at my recommendation.  
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Finally this year, I just took one of my very sharp knives and sliced the 
>> ridge off.  
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> It's working great.  This is a very cozy high-mileage saddle.  
>>
>>
>> I think for most people, B17 is the wrong shape for a drop-bar road bike 
>> - it certainly is for me.  I think B17 works best on your sit-up touring 
>> bike, and also works fine for me on an upright.  
>>
>> And I agree, for the greatest range in riding positions, S-A is the most 
>> invisible saddle ever made.  But matching a B17 or Rivet to its correct 
>> riding position (for your tush) is equally invisible.  
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 8:14:35 AM UTC-6, ian m wrote:
>>>
>>> I am honestly surprised people have managed to stretch the SA leather 
>>> past the length of the tension bolt. I have a Titanico (original model 
>>> before T, X, ) I've had for about 5 years. Put countless miles on it, 
>>> rode it on a week long tour, commuted on it, you name it. Still going 
>>> strong. I bought a second about 3 years ago (T model) and like the leather 
>>> more than on the original. Haven't moved the tension bolt past halfway for 
>>> either.
>>>
>>> I'm guessing the combination of a less stiff leather than the Brooks and 
>>> the looser hammocking shape of the saddle makes the SA work better with 
>>> specific body shapes. People with uneven hip rotation will stretch each 
>>> side of the saddle differently, people with thicker legs may experience 
>>> thigh rub,  I personally never found a Brooks comfortable and after 
>>> riding one for about a year barely noticed any breaking in whereas the SA 
>>> was the most comfortable saddle I ever sat in right out of the box. To each 
>>> their own, best thing you can do is try as many saddles as possible.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 1:22:48 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:

 I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
 sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
 past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
 Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
 wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
 people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember 
 some 
 people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
 thoughts comparing these 3 choices?

 Thanks,
 John

>>>

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[RBW] Re: 2016 PTSD Ride: The Video

[Jock Dewey]

Perfect! 

Yellow & Carradice...The Ghost of Jobst!

JD / Athens, GA

On Monday, December 5, 2016 at 7:25:47 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> My latest video highlights my annual Post Turkey and Stuffing Day ride 
> from Davis to SF:
>
> https://youtu.be/mgZIty9L4w0 
>
> Enjoy!
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

[Jim D Massachusetts]

I found my LLBean boots very comfortable. However, the traction on ice was 
not great with the "chain" sole. Their storm chaser boots look like a 
better option and I would think the stiffer sole would be better to ride 
in. Jim D.Massachusetts

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 7:41:35 AM UTC-5, Michael Rivers wrote:
>
> LL Bean boots. Warm, long lasting. Living in the Northeast for years these 
> handle mud, sand, snow when it's cold, and just get hosed off when dirty. I 
> sound like a shill, but after 40 years of using this boot it just works.
>
>
> http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/33549?feat=506794-GN2=men-s-l-l-bean-boots-8-thinsulate
>
> Michael
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Bill Lindsay]

I don't frequent CR, so that probably wasn't it, but check the rest. 

Bill

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Tim Gavin]

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/650b/tricolor%7Csort:relevance/650b/irOsuXe479A/wd2iyjacCAAJ

So, I found the post.  He's looking for just the hubs.  So, I look on eBay
to get an idea of a fair price, and I find this listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Set-of-Shimano-600-Tricolor-Hubs-8-9-10-11-SPEED-IN-GREAT-SHAPE-130MM-/381876098473?hash=item58e996d5a9:g:t0AAAOSw6DtYRzU2

I'm not going to unlace my wheels just to sell the hubs for $50, and now
I'd feel bad charging him more.  So, I told him so and sent him the eBay
listing.  LOL!

Cheers,
Tim

On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Tim
>
> On one of these boards, I saw a WTB post for a tricolor Hubert. Maybe you
> could find that potential buyer for your wheelset
>
> Bill
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Tim Gavin]

I found it on 650b.  Thanks!

On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Tim
>
> On one of these boards, I saw a WTB post for a tricolor Hubert. Maybe you
> could find that potential buyer for your wheelset
>
> Bill
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Tim Gavin]

Thanks, Bill.  I'll search.  You thinking RBW, 650b, iBOB, or Classic
Rendezvous?

On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Tim
>
> On one of these boards, I saw a WTB post for a tricolor Hubert. Maybe you
> could find that potential buyer for your wheelset
>
> Bill
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Bill Lindsay]

Tim 

On one of these boards, I saw a WTB post for a tricolor Hubert. Maybe you could 
find that potential buyer for your wheelset

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Kieran J]

S-A also did an interesting crowdfunded project to make a leaf-dampened 
full carbon version of their saddle, for you weight weenies out there. 
It looks nuts! And it costs $400.

KJ


On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 1:22:48 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
> sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
> past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
>  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
> Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
> wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
> people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember some 
> people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
> thoughts comparing these 3 choices?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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[RBW] 2016 PTSD Ride: The Video

[Kellie]

Enjoyed.  Thanks for sharing.

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[RBW] Re: Albastache on what frame?

[BSWP]

On the topic of Albastaches, have any set them up with interruptors, either 
in addition or solely? I'm looking for alternative placements from what the 
Tiagra levers provide.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[George Schick]

If the B-17 is the wrong shape for drop-bar riding, what about the Team 
Pro?  I've had several of those over the years on road bikes and the only 
thing I didn't like about it was the lack of bag loops (which can be 
rectified by an add-on device).

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 9:22:59 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> OK, but this was the first 8 miles on my first S-A - it stretched so much 
> the front of the saddle actually let go of the stretch bolt - this was 
> stopped at a bike shop to borrow some tools to fix it.  
> This took most of the stretch bolt and finally bent a rail.  
>
>
> 
> I have 10,000 mi on a B17 Select and took just a little stretch bolt in 
> the summer when I was sweating heavily.  
>
>
> 
> I'm also pushing that distance on my Rivet Indy.  
> It's one of the first Debra made and developed the problem of a ridge 
> behind the slot, I think because the radius of that rear hole was too 
> small.  
> She solved this problem by increasing the diameter of the rear slot hole - 
> I think at my recommendation.  
>
>
> 
>
> Finally this year, I just took one of my very sharp knives and sliced the 
> ridge off.  
>
>
> 
>
> It's working great.  This is a very cozy high-mileage saddle.  
>
>
> I think for most people, B17 is the wrong shape for a drop-bar road bike - 
> it certainly is for me.  I think B17 works best on your sit-up touring 
> bike, and also works fine for me on an upright.  
>
> And I agree, for the greatest range in riding positions, S-A is the most 
> invisible saddle ever made.  But matching a B17 or Rivet to its correct 
> riding position (for your tush) is equally invisible.  
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 8:14:35 AM UTC-6, ian m wrote:
>>
>> I am honestly surprised people have managed to stretch the SA leather 
>> past the length of the tension bolt. I have a Titanico (original model 
>> before T, X, ) I've had for about 5 years. Put countless miles on it, 
>> rode it on a week long tour, commuted on it, you name it. Still going 
>> strong. I bought a second about 3 years ago (T model) and like the leather 
>> more than on the original. Haven't moved the tension bolt past halfway for 
>> either.
>>
>> I'm guessing the combination of a less stiff leather than the Brooks and 
>> the looser hammocking shape of the saddle makes the SA work better with 
>> specific body shapes. People with uneven hip rotation will stretch each 
>> side of the saddle differently, people with thicker legs may experience 
>> thigh rub,  I personally never found a Brooks comfortable and after 
>> riding one for about a year barely noticed any breaking in whereas the SA 
>> was the most comfortable saddle I ever sat in right out of the box. To each 
>> their own, best thing you can do is try as many saddles as possible.
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 1:22:48 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:
>>>
>>> I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
>>> sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
>>> past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
>>>  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
>>> Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
>>> wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
>>> people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember some 
>>> people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
>>> thoughts comparing these 3 choices?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[stonehog]

I am on the side of thumbs up for SA. I'm a mostly commuter, sometimes 
rando/bikepacker.  I've tried B17 (good shape, pretty), Rivet Pearl (good 
shape, too stiff), and Selle Anatomica X (old writeup here: 
https://stonehog.com/2012/08/02/leathersaddles/), and replaced all my 
saddles with the Selle Anatomica at this point.  Comfortable from the get 
go.  I weigh in around 165lb, and have skinny legs, bony butt, so this 
saddle fits me well.  I've put 300k on these in the rain, and while they 
may sag, they are comfy.  I can do the B17 for about 100k - anything more, 
and I will get numbness and soreness.  On the Rivet, I eventually did the 
Lon Haldeman Brooks break in method 
(https://stonehog.com/2013/05/29/soften-the-rivet/), but ended up giving 
the saddle away when that didn't really make things better.  Every butt is 
unique - everyone needs to try saddles to find the one that works for their 
butt, distance, style.  

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA 

On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 10:22:48 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
> sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
> past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
>  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
> Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
> wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
> people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember some 
> people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
> thoughts comparing these 3 choices?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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[RBW] 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[lum gim fong]

https://www.roadbikerider.com/latest-rbr-newsletter-2016/258-issue-no-740/2536-a-new-wheel-tire-size-to-consider

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[RBW] Re: FS: Giordana 57 road frame, Nitto Campee lowrider, Stronglight 99, Campy BB, and more!

[Tim Gavin]

Bump!  Items 4, 9, and 10 are sold or claimed.  

I will entertain offers, especially on multiple items.

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 10:55:14 AM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> I have various items for sale, plus actual shipping cost via BikeFlights.  
> Located in Cedar Rapids, IA.  
>
> *1) 51 cm Soma San Marcos (v1), $1200 complete or $600 frameset.*  
> Listed separately here 
> 
> :
>
> *2) 57 cm Giordana XL-Eco road stage race frame/fork/headset, $250.*  
> Exceedingly light lugged steel frame of thin-wall, heat-treated Excell 
> steel; it definitely planed for me.  Springy, but not noodly.  I'm selling 
> the frame because it's too small for me.
> Designed by Dario Pegoretti, handmade in Italy by Billato Bros in the 
> mid-90s.
> Some description and geometry here. 
> 
> However, this frame only clears a 700 x 26 or 650 x 36 tire.
> Plenty of small chips, scuffs, and scratches (especially in the decals), 
> but no dents. 
> Downtube cable stops are included, but the knobs are corroded.
> 90s vintage Shimano XTR headset included
> Pictures here. 
> 
>   
> 32h 700c Mavic Open Pro/Shimano Tricolor 600 wheelset also available for 
> $150.  
>
> *3) Nitto Mt Campee F20 front rack w/lowriders, $180.*  
> This is the 26" wheel version 
> ; 
> it fits well on 26 x 2" or 650 x 42 setups, plus fenders.  Intended for 
> forks with eyelets in front of the fork ends.
> This version also has a larger top platform (5.25" 
> 
>  
> x 9.5" 
> )
>  
> than other Campee front racks (Nitto min-rack size 4.25" x 8")
> The lower mounting struts were trimmed down to about 1" by the prevoius 
> owner, but I restored the length with a Tubus extension kit 
> .
>   
> Now, it has 13.75" from platform to lower eyelet. 
> 
> Your choice of straight struts, bent struts, or cantilever post upper 
> mounts. 
> 
>
> *5) Stronglight 99 triple crankset, with Campagnolo Record loose ball BB, 
> $100.*  
> 170 mm crankarm length 
> ,
>  
> standard English pedal and extractor threads!  86 mm BCD.
> Campagnolo Record loose ball BB cups 
> ,
>  
> Stronglight 125 mm triple spindle 
> .
>  
> ~150 mm Q factor.
> 52t, 42t, and 30t Stronglight rings 
> 
>  
> with little wear but some dirt and scuffing.
> These vintage French cranks have very low Q, but there is little clearance 
> between the big ring and the straight crankarm.  A front derailleur with a 
> scuplted outer cage (most modern triple FDs) will hit the arm.  I recommend 
> a vintage FD with a flat outer cage plate; it friction shifted great with 
> an '80s Suntour Cyclone FD.
>
> *6) Nitto 185 drop handlebar, $40.*  42 cm width 
> ,
>  
> 26.0 mm clamp, 82 mm reach, 140 mm drop.  Classic curve.  Not too 
> scratched, but with plenty of bar tape residue 
> 
> .
> These are not the currently-produced "neat" model; the "neat" model has 
> cable grooves that this bar lacks.  
>
> *7) Full Speed Ahead (FSA) New Ergo drop handlebars, $25.*  46 cm width, 
> 
>  
> 31.8 mm clamp, 80 mm reach, 150 mm drop.  New, ergo D-shaped curve 
> ,
>  
> works great with STI/Ergo brifters.  VG shape with only a little bar tape 
> residue. 
> 

[RBW] Re: Albastache on what frame?

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Apologies as I don't want to steer this from the intended topic of the 
Albastache but you mentioned you had used the MAP bars.  I just got 
MAP/Ahearne and they looked great for modified bar/go fast type.  Care to 
comment on that?
thanks and back to Albastache

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 11:21:45 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:

> I applaud your itch to build up a bike around a handlebar, i feel each 
> bike should have a decidedly different cockpit. I have an albastached on my 
> hunqapillar and as a serial cockpit swapper i've tried jones, map, dirt 
> drops, and something else I can't remember but always go back to 
> albastache. I feel they work on any bike you would have put drops on 
> because the reach puts you in an aero position like drops would, but you 
> also have the benefit of uprights. What about your black mountain? I like 
> mine on the hunq b/c its my all rounder and trail bike. Seems the Black 
> Mountain might fit that bill for you as well. If not I'd try and score an 
> XO-1 or an MB-1 or something dirt and trail oriented that I can fit wider 
> tires on and use for an all rounder.
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 6:17:05 AM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> So I've had an itch to build up an Albastache'd bike. Might be silly to 
>> build up a bike only to have another handlebar option, but I'm ok with that.
>> My goal is to find an older mtb as a winter project and build it up with 
>> Albastache bars. 
>> Assuming the bars work out for me, I'd like to swap things over to a 
>> newer frameset.
>>
>> My question is:
>> Which frame would work well with Albastache bars assuming I want a 
>> semi-upright yet still a tad aggressive setup?
>> As this is the Riv list, Rivendell frames obviously should be in the mix, 
>> but other frame suggestions are welcomed.
>>
>> Ideally new bike would not overlap with current bikes/handlebar setups 
>> which are:
>> Riv Clem - Albatross
>> Riv Redwood - drops, Nitto B132
>> Black Mountain Monster Cross - drops, Nitto B132
>> VO Campeur - shortened Albatross w/ inverse brake levers
>>
>> David
>> winter project dreaming when I should be working in Chicago, IL
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albastache on what frame?

[David Banzer]

I'm starting to think that the Redwood might be a good fit. The Monster 
Cross I use the drops quite a bit. 
The Redwood is converted to 650b with WTB Horizon tires. I use the drop 
portion much less on the Redwood. So maybe that might be the right bike to 
try it out on. Then I might need a Roadini if taller sizes are made to fill 
in my 'road' bike slot.
A Hunqapillar with albastaches would be ideal, but it's not in the budget 
right now. A used one probably, but a new one probably not for a few years.
Things to ponder.

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 10:21:45 PM UTC-6, dstein wrote:
>
> I applaud your itch to build up a bike around a handlebar, i feel each 
> bike should have a decidedly different cockpit. I have an albastached on my 
> hunqapillar and as a serial cockpit swapper i've tried jones, map, dirt 
> drops, and something else I can't remember but always go back to 
> albastache. I feel they work on any bike you would have put drops on 
> because the reach puts you in an aero position like drops would, but you 
> also have the benefit of uprights. What about your black mountain? I like 
> mine on the hunq b/c its my all rounder and trail bike. Seems the Black 
> Mountain might fit that bill for you as well. If not I'd try and score an 
> XO-1 or an MB-1 or something dirt and trail oriented that I can fit wider 
> tires on and use for an all rounder.
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 6:17:05 AM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> So I've had an itch to build up an Albastache'd bike. Might be silly to 
>> build up a bike only to have another handlebar option, but I'm ok with that.
>> My goal is to find an older mtb as a winter project and build it up with 
>> Albastache bars. 
>> Assuming the bars work out for me, I'd like to swap things over to a 
>> newer frameset.
>>
>> My question is:
>> Which frame would work well with Albastache bars assuming I want a 
>> semi-upright yet still a tad aggressive setup?
>> As this is the Riv list, Rivendell frames obviously should be in the mix, 
>> but other frame suggestions are welcomed.
>>
>> Ideally new bike would not overlap with current bikes/handlebar setups 
>> which are:
>> Riv Clem - Albatross
>> Riv Redwood - drops, Nitto B132
>> Black Mountain Monster Cross - drops, Nitto B132
>> VO Campeur - shortened Albatross w/ inverse brake levers
>>
>> David
>> winter project dreaming when I should be working in Chicago, IL
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sugino XD2, Ultegra RD, IRD Thumbies, Microshift, Pletscher double kickstands

[Ryan Thompson]

Crankset has sold.  Here's what remains:

2. IRD thumb shifters mounts with shims. $50 shipped

3. Ultegra 6700 rear derailleur, short cage.  The top pulley seems like it 
doesn't spin as smoothly as it should so it might need to be replaced.  $30

4. Microshift BS-A09 bar end shifters.  I mounted these but never used 
them.  $35

5. Two Pletscher double leg kickstands.  One is cut at 280 and has no feet, 
the other is cut at 270 and has feet.  These were installed on my 58 Sam 
Hillborne and 60 Cheviot. $30 each

6. New set of Dia Compe 988 cantilever brakes. $40

Pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/135783646@N08/albums/72157673662519603

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[RBW] Albastache on what frame?

[Surlyprof]

David,

I put albastache on my Sam to replace the albatross bars it came with.  I 
figured I was done with drops and the albatross was too upright for when I felt 
the desire to go fast (ish).  I had drops on my previous Bianchi and found I so 
rarely rode down in the drops.  The albastache was all I needed to get a more 
outstretched position I desired.  

Looks like most of you stable leans toward road.  I really like the albastache 
on trails.  I think Dave gravitates albastache back to his Hunq and Patrick 
raves about the albastache on his Hunq for a reason.  It's a great all arounder 
bar and great on trails.  Maybe you need a Hunqapillar?

John

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[RBW] FS: Sugino XD2, Ultegra RD, IRD Thumbies, Microshift, Pletscher double kickstands

[Tailwinds14]

Ryan - can't pm from mobile,bur I am interested in the Sugino xd2 cranks. Thanks
Beth
tailwind...@gmail.com - please email me here.

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[RBW] Re: Quality of Sugino Alpina2 cranks nowhere near that of original model Alpina

[ian m]

Interestingly, the original crank is also thicker near the crank arm than 
it is on the other "spider arms". Makes me think it's not a defect of the 
newer crank

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:04:50 AM UTC-5, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> - on the new cranks, there is not a consistent thickness of all the spider 
> arms. In the linked photo, if you look at the spider arm nearest the crank, 
> the surface of it is about 1mm higher where it meets the chainring compared 
> to the other spider arms.
>

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[RBW] Re: Quality of Sugino Alpina2 cranks nowhere near that of original model Alpina

[Ryan Thompson]

The original Alpina looks just like my Sugino Mighty Tour (new version) 
crankset but I think it's even more expensive then the Alpina2.

Ryan

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:04:50 AM UTC-5, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> I own a pair of the original model Sugino Alpina cranks, which are about 
> as nicely finished as any crank I've owned. So when I needed another set of 
> cranks I had no hesitation in ordering a set of the Sugino Alpina2 cranks, 
> thinking they would be of equivalent quality. However, when they arrived, I 
> found that the quality of the finish is nowhere near the same level. To wit:
>
> - the polishing on the new cranks is inferior
>
> - on the new cranks the grinding marks between the spider arms have not 
> been polished out as had been done on the older Alpina
>
> - on the new cranks, there is not a consistent thickness of all the spider 
> arms. In the linked photo, if you look at the spider arm nearest the crank, 
> the surface of it is about 1mm higher where it meets the chainring compared 
> to the other spider arms.
>
> - on the new cranks, the webbing where the spiders each side of the 
> crankarm meet the crank is much thinner, creating a location where a stress 
> fracture can start - on the original model, this webbing had been ground 
> back and then polished to reduce the chance of failure here. In the past 
> I've had to retire a set of Campagnolo NR and SR cranks because cracks 
> appeared at this location due to the thinness of the metal at this high 
> stress location.
>
> Original model Alpina (click on image for larger size)
>
>
> 
>
>
> New model Alpina2 (click on image for larger size)
>
>
> 
>
>
> So my suggestion would be, if you want a 110/74 crank: buy the XD instead. 
> The quality of finish is much the same and it's substantially cheaper.
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: 61cm AHH for 59/61cm Roadeo

[Brian Campbell]

Ha! If the swap happens as planned, I can have the new bike up and running 
in a day or two. This bike is pretty perfect but I don't really carry 
anything anymore. I would like to try the Roadeo and see if the lighter 
frame tubes make a difference in how the bike feels. I have an old Falcon I 
picked up on Craigslist, that is slated for sale, that I could use if 
needed. That is if it not sold in the near future...

On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 6:41:03 AM UTC-5, Mark Etze wrote:
>
> What are you going to ride during the swap period? I thought you one of 
> those crazy minimalists and this was your one bike, which is set up 
> perfectly btw.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: 61cm AHH for 59/61cm Roadeo

['Mark Etze' via RBW Owners Bunch]

What are you going to ride during the swap period? I thought you one of 
those crazy minimalists and this was your one bike, which is set up 
perfectly btw.

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[RBW] Re: Deep Red 60CM Joe Bell Painted Custom on Ebay - San Diego Area? Anyone recognize?

[BrettG]

I sent a message to the seller 2 days ago asking for a bit more detail (age 
of frame, wheelset info), but received no response.  The frame itself looks 
like it's seen little use unless it was recently repainted.  I was 
surprised at the lack of info in the posting as well.

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