[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[John Hawrylak]

Stan 

>From the bike picture you posted, you already have bars with long ramps and 
a low ramp angle (approx. 10°) and you have the bars rotated to obtain a 0° 
ramp angle (ramps parallel to ground).   I would say the bars are either 
Nitto B132 or VO Course bars.

So you already have the long reach you discussed.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 4:21:40 PM UTC-4, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> To add to the number of variables we've already discussed, I stumbled upon 
> some articles on hand positioning for drops (
> http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html),
>  
> which have introduced me to a hand position I haven't used much before and 
> hadn't really heard of, the ramps. Feel stupid for not having really heard 
> of it until now, but I think this may explain a lot. I always thought if 
> people weren't tucking in, then were either on the hoods or on the tops. 
> When I ride my new bike, I find my hands naturally gravitating toward the 
> ramps, but I kept thinking this wasn't a 'proper' position for long 
> portions of a ride. I kept thinking I needed to stretch for the hoods. 
> After reading Jan Heine talk about preferring longer reach bars and 
> primarily using the ramps and not the hoods, combined with the fact that 
> this bike was built up heavily with Jan's influence, I feel like this stem 
> and bar length might suit the ramp hand position more than hoods, for a 
> rider of my proportions. Not sure how other folks here feel about ramps vs 
> hoods, but I'm excited to give the ramps some miles as my primary hand 
> position and see how that goes.
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>>
>> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It 
>> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle 
>> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room 
>> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's 
>> handmade, there's no max height line...
>>
>> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go 
>> on the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure 
>> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio 
>> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it 
>> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched 
>> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Peter is of course correct. My fault for responding to an email before I was 
fully awake.

I have both lights, and the experience I described in my email is for the 
larger light, which I have used for some (but not extensive) night riding. Glad 
to hear that Peter has them in stock!

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Aug 18, 2018, at 5:31 AM, Peter White  wrote:
> 
> The light in the photo is not an Ixon. It's an Ixon Core. It has a built-in 
> lithium battery that charges via USB. The Ixon, now called Ixon IQ Premium, 
> is a different and slightly larger headlight that does run on 4 AA batteries 
> and has a 5 hour run time at full power; 20 hours at low power. The width of 
> the Ixon Core beam is about ½ that of the Ixon. We import both and sell quite 
> a few direct to consumers as well as to shops all over the US and Canada.
> 
> PJW
> Peter White Cycles
> 
>> On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>>  wrote:
>> Yes. Busch and Muller makes the Ixon light, which uses 4 AA batteries. Nice 
>> light that runs 3 hours on high, 15 on low. The low setting is OK for me in 
>> dark places (our in the country away from streetlights); YMMV. 
>> 
>> I’ve never seen them for sale in a US shop. Bought mine from a German online 
>> store. 
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> –Eric N
>> 
>> 
>> > On Aug 18, 2018, at 3:54 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:
>> > 
>> > Anyone make asymmetrical batt lights?
>> > 
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> 
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[RBW] Re: CL outing: NIB Sam Hillborne Frame $899 OBO

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I'll probably have one like this available in October, in case anyone 
cares.  Also a first-edition green 60cm model.  It's not still wrapped; 
it's been built up for about 6 years but has very low mileage and is in 
excellent condition.  PM me if you want more information.  

Dave
Boston/Indy

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[RBW] Re: CL outing: NIB Sam Hillborne Frame $899 OBO

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Rereading what I just wrote above, I should clarify that I'll have a 
frame/fork/headset available.  Since "it's been built up for about 6 
years," what I'd have was kind of ambiguous (but I knew what I meant!).  

Dave

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[RBW] CL outing: NIB Sam Hillborne Frame $899 OBO

[J Imler]

I'll pick it up and drop off at a local bike flights shop for $200.00 if 
needed. PM off list. 

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[RBW] CL outing: NIB Sam Hillborne Frame $899 OBO

[Joe Bernard]

That's a first-run Sam. Still wrapped!

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Daniel Jackson]

Sean,

I’d say the ramps are the primary position used by many who ride this style of 
bike. Often traditional Rando machines are kitted with long reach bars like 
those to which you refer - the variety of hand positions afforded aids in 
comfort for long miles. 

I spend about 70% of the time on the ramps of my Compass Randonneur bars. The 
hoods are reserved for hammering up steep technical terrain and the drops for 
fast descents or aero flats. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[iamkeith]

Total speculative brainstorming here:  

I installed one of the regular mini racks on my clem earlier this year, using a 
sheldon nut on the back of the crown so that i could space and elevate a fender 
mount tab as high as possible, but also so that there was no slop/wiggle 
between the mounting hole  and stud diameters. Interestingly, I had to use a 
thin washer on the front of the crown because there weren't >quite< enough 
threads on the top strut of the rack.  Otherwise it "looked" like it was 
tightened all the way in at a glance, but the nut was actually bottoming 
against the last of the threads.  A total dimensional coincidence.  I could 
imagine that stud/strut becoming fatigued if left to move and vibrate, and a 
rider might never know it was an issue because it wouldn't ever loosen up.

That said, i somehow interpreted that the problem was with the ones that mount 
to the canti studs.  

No matter what, this is an issue of a  user's responsibility to exercise good 
judgement, and it bothers me to no end that there have been lawsuits over it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[James Warren]

I genuinely appreciated the lecture, Collin.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 4:01 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:
> 
> you should be
> 
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 10:11:40 PM UTC-5, Collin A wrote:...
>> 
>> 
>> Sorry for the lecture,
>> Collin A
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: 61 cm Bleriot

[Reid Echols]

PM sent! 

On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 4:42:38 PM UTC+1, patrick ryan wrote:
>
> Hello- I have only had this bike for a few months.  It is a bit tall for 
> me (PBH 89), so am hoping someone will be able to make good use of it.  
> Comes with basic pedals (one-side SPD), spring bell, nice fenders, two sets 
> of tires, no saddle, two more sets of new 650b tires (pictured) 
> negotiable...*$900*.
> Has one minor blemish on the top tube where (I am presuming) the bar end 
> shifter rubbed the paint  when the handlebar was turned too far.  More 
> detailed pictures available upon request.  Thank you.
>
> [image: IMG_3434.jpg]
>
>
> [image: IMG_3432.jpg]
>
> [image: IMG_3446.jpg]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Patrick Moore]

A usable position on the ramps depends a great deal on the bar's shape. I
used to use Nitto 185s, with very short reach -- 9 cm -- and hardly any
ramps to speak of. I switched to the Maes Parallel (I have bars in this
shape from Compass and from VO), with 125 mm reach; these do provide a
nice, long, and comfortable ramp which I now use very often. I've set the
bars up so that overall reach to the hoods is a bit more than with the
185s, so despite the now higher bars compared to how the 185s were set, I
can still get aero on the hoods; but I can also sit up a bit and cruise on
the ramps. Very nice.

On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 2:21 PM, Sean Steinle  wrote:

> To add to the number of variables we've already discussed, I stumbled upon
> some articles on hand positioning for drops (http://lovelybike.blogspot.
> com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html), which have
> introduced me to a hand position I haven't used much before and hadn't
> really heard of, the ramps. Feel stupid for not having really heard of it
> until now, but I think this may explain a lot. I always thought if people
> weren't tucking in, then were either on the hoods or on the tops. When I
> ride my new bike, I find my hands naturally gravitating toward the ramps,
> but I kept thinking this wasn't a 'proper' position for long portions of a
> ride. I kept thinking I needed to stretch for the hoods. After reading Jan
> Heine talk about preferring longer reach bars and primarily using the ramps
> and not the hoods, combined with the fact that this bike was built up
> heavily with Jan's influence, I feel like this stem and bar length might
> suit the ramp hand position more than hoods, for a rider of my proportions.
> Not sure how other folks here feel about ramps vs hoods, but I'm excited to
> give the ramps some miles as my primary hand position and see how that goes.
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>>
>> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It
>> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle
>> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room
>> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's
>> handmade, there's no max height line...
>>
>> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go
>> on the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure
>> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio
>> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it
>> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched
>> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>>
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[John Phillips]

   I have heard of failures of the fork crown bolt or the diving board 
plate on the Mark's rack, but I would really like to see how much weight, 
how it was loaded, and what kind of riding led to each failure. I'm not 
going to ever go close to tempting fate with my loads, but my curiosity is 
really itching to know what exactly happened in these rack failures.

John

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[RBW] FS: Clem H 52 mustard

[Joe Bernard]

Ok, it's in for real now. I just got a raging deal on a ti Brompton which is 
still too expensive for me, so something has to give (plus I'm going to end up 
with the Riv MTB next year, it's inevitable). This bike literally has 15 miles 
on it..I bought it then I was injured for a bit so I didn't get far. 

Stock setup except the shifters/levers are switched back to normal for 9-speed 
indexing in back. No saddle, comes with the plastic flat pedals. 

$1300 shipped Bike Flights, $1450 with the Nitto Nedium Rack. Be there, aloha. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPMcxsi2fDJcB1dg9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n5uKfWfyoJ5o5LJo6

Joe Bernard
Novato CA.
Text: 415 786 4623
Email: joeremi62 at gmail com

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Sean Steinle]

To add to the number of variables we've already discussed, I stumbled upon 
some articles on hand positioning for drops 
(http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html),
 
which have introduced me to a hand position I haven't used much before and 
hadn't really heard of, the ramps. Feel stupid for not having really heard 
of it until now, but I think this may explain a lot. I always thought if 
people weren't tucking in, then were either on the hoods or on the tops. 
When I ride my new bike, I find my hands naturally gravitating toward the 
ramps, but I kept thinking this wasn't a 'proper' position for long 
portions of a ride. I kept thinking I needed to stretch for the hoods. 
After reading Jan Heine talk about preferring longer reach bars and 
primarily using the ramps and not the hoods, combined with the fact that 
this bike was built up heavily with Jan's influence, I feel like this stem 
and bar length might suit the ramp hand position more than hoods, for a 
rider of my proportions. Not sure how other folks here feel about ramps vs 
hoods, but I'm excited to give the ramps some miles as my primary hand 
position and see how that goes.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It 
> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle 
> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room 
> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's 
> handmade, there's no max height line...
>
> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go on 
> the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure 
> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio 
> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it 
> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched 
> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Kid Hauling

[J Imler]

Hi Group,

I've been semi-busy this summer with some tinkering plans I've had in mind 
for a time. Over the last couple months I've been able to add a Mountain 
Tamer Triple  to two of my 
bikes and I'm loving that. I also converted our Trek trailer into a cargo 
hauler. Prior to the redo it looked like this: 

[image: ac22c36128ca61563469993da531c52b.jpg] 

What was nice is that I didn't have to drill any additional holes but just 
bolted some plywood on there for now and scrapped the excess material. I 
call it the open air flyer now. The MT Triple plus a Wolftooth Roadlink 
let's me get a seriously low gear on my step through, which I've been after 
since we like to load up and get errands done and exercise in one swoop. 
It's been good. The hauler let's my kid get on and off his own balance bike 
and it's nice in the event of major traffic or anything where caution is 
used.


Installing the Mountain Tamer Triple is a little bit tricky, but if you 
read the directions carefully and work though it, the material is really 
quality and I'm very satisfied. I'm using the Shimano XT front deraileur 
from RBW and it's awesome, especially with the Silver shifter, we're 
talking micro millimeter fine adjustment that's just dialed in.


In one of the pics little man isn't wearing a helmet, we wouldn't do that 
again. Click here 

 
for the pictures. 


Ride on.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Adam in Indiana]

So is the common mode of failure at the fork crown bolt..?  Seems like the 
canti post mounts are fairly robust.


On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:16:51 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto racks, 
> breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no baskets".  
> Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the Blahg that we 
> shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors claiming Nitto Racks 
> carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  Some gullible people 
> think that means that racks from other vendors are 'stronger' than the ones 
> you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed front rack is a big problem, 
> and conservative recommendations are intended to protect your head, even if 
> that discourages you from buying something:
> 
> 
> GRANTS BLAHG
> 
> 
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Patrick Moore]

Mark and others: I've been toying with a similar idea, replacing the
calipers with cantis on my 2003 custom for better fender clearance. The
calipers *are* 7400 Dura Aces, and they clear fenders as well as any other
caliper that I can think of, except perhaps some of the old, cheap
Weinmanns.

But perhaps Mafac or Paul or Compass centerpulls will give all the
clearance that crown and bridge allow, so that cantis, and the cost and
hassle of adding bosses, aren't needed? Can anyone say?

Thanks, Patrick



On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Mark Schneider  wrote:

> I had a similar issue with my Homer. To get more clearance for fenders
> with wider tires I found a very clean set of Mafac Raids, and put them  on
> my Homer, they work very well. Compass make centerpulls that are very
> similar to the Raids but $$$. Paul Components Racer's  are also very nice
> with reach between 559's and the Raids. So yes I would consider
> centerpulls. I got my Raids for around 60$ on EBay, but it took a while.
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:33:52 PM UTC-7, Mike K. wrote:
>
>> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm
>> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's
>> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger
>> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the
>> current setup won't allow it.
>>
>> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37
>> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts,
>> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even
>> switch to 650b.
>>
>> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different
>> frame and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on
>> what I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go
>> bigger than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and
>> just need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>>
>> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>>
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[RBW] FS: 61 cm Bleriot

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Beautiful bike! If you haven’t tried it, a shorter stem may dial that right in 
for you.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[John Hawrylak]

Stan

Really nice bike and the contrasting head tube is sharp.

Suggesting the best action is to get a Nitto Technomic (either 225mm 0r 
190mm quill or a Soma Sutra if stem length of 80 or 100mm is good) of the 
best stem length and install to get handlebars at saddle height.  Raising 
the bars to saddle height brings the bar back to you by 1.5cm, if they are 
5cm below saddle now.  This shortening and the "growth" of your arms (see 
Tube Tube Ruse by RBW) with SH = BH should correct your problem if the new 
stem is same length as existing one.  If not, try a 10mm shorter stem

Do not install bar tape, but ride and adjust as required, perhaps even 
changing the stem length.
When you get the correct fit, install the bar tape and your problem is 
solved and bike looks like it did.  I think the Soma Sutra is available in 
Black.

I know this more expensive, but it will give you the results you are 
looking for, without going to a fitter at this point

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ


On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 10:40:51 AM UTC-4, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions so far! To clarify, not custom built for me, I 
>> bought it used. However, the fellow I bought it from was very similar to me 
>> in the key measurements. The more I think about this, the more I wonder if 
>> it is a case of me needing to get used to it, exacerbated by the bars being 
>> a bit too far below saddle height. I'm not sure the reach is the biggest 
>> culprit. I rode a Brompton M-bar exclusively for almost a year before 
>> getting this. I remember when I hopped back on my Salsa Casseroll (similar 
>> reach to the new rando, but bars much closer to saddle height) after riding 
>> the Brompton for all those months, I felt very stretched out, almost 
>> ridiculously so. Yet, I had ridden the Cass for 4 years prior to getting 
>> the Brompton, for the most part just fine. In the end, I started to wish I 
>> was just a tad more upright on the Cass, so I'm guessing even after I ride 
>> the rando for awhile, I'll probably wish for a stem that's a tad shorter & 
>> a couple inches higher. To be honest, I'd be all over Michael's 90mm VO 
>> stem with removable faceplate (that way I can keep the cockpit, with the 
>> nice Brooks bar tape, together).  I think bringing the bars in 2 cm and 
>> raising the bars to saddle height would probably make for a pretty near 
>> goldilocks fit. What's holding me back from snatching it up is purely 
>> aesthetic, it's nickel and not chrome...first world problems. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Lose the double kickstand and the wheel lock and get a Titanium bow lock. 
Replace the kickstand with a rear triangle mounted one like a Greenfield. Like 
you, I originally didn’t worry too much about the weight of my Atlantis. I 
ordered a double kickstand as that was what everyone said was the Bees knees, 
but it was ridiculously heavy.  My old Tubus rack was lighter than my current 
Nitto if for additional weight savings too, but the esthetics are not quite as 
nice on a Riv. 

Here is a link for the lock: 
https://www.tigrlock.com/store/tigrmini/?utm_content=99 

Then there is a single chainring set up, with carbon cranks and a hollow bottom 
bracket which is very expensive, but would dump a lot of weight. I have them on 
my Atlantis. 

Last little bit of advice. lift weights. I am 62 and the muscles are 
falling off my body, so I lift light weights to stay functional. I live on a 
second floor walk up, and I live without a car, so my bike gets carried up my 
stairs daily (my weight lift program). I get it. 

For technique, I reach down with my right hand and grab the seat tube (over the 
top tube) down around the front derailleur area, and with my left I grab the 
front rack to lift the front wheel above the stairs. A leather handle just adds 
weight. Lightening a bike is about taking stuff off. 

And last, but not least, lightening a bike is a rabbit hole and can get 
expensive. I love my Atlantis and have been slowly perfecting it and lightening 
it over the past twenty years. Name you bike “Lola”, because she always get 
what she wants, . 

I hope this helps.

Clayton
#DirtDanceDesigns



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[RBW] Re: QB Seatpost Diameter

[Dave Grossman]

Thanks all.  You were all correct and my caliper was not.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[R Shannon]

Andy, I like it! Thank you for the photographs and description.

Regards,
Rich in ATL

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 18, 2018, at 6:59 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:
> 
> I use a Topeak Morph for Carradice Pendle, Brooks Milford, and Berthoud GB 25 
> bags.
> 
> I use one of those short cylinder pumps from Topeak in my banana sax. Gotta 
> get new pumps as both are a few years olde and I don’t want to get caught out 
> with rotted seals. I think the Topeak is 9 years olde now.
> 
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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Kiley Demond]

Thanks, Phil. Tires and wheels will be the object of my next OCD research 
binge. I really didn't focus on weight at all during my Cheviot build; it 
only needed to be shiny, preferably steel, and not made in China.

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 7:15:00 AM UTC-7, phil k wrote:
>
> IME changing tires has the best cost to benefit, in some cases it may not 
> even cost more. I switched from Schwable to Compass tires (Compass tires 
> were a bit cheaper actually), and lost almost 2 pounds.
>
> Your other biggest value is figuring out how much you actually NEED to 
> carry. I used to carry a few patches, a couple of tubes, large air pump, 
> and multiple tools. I now only carry a spurcycle multitool (super light and 
> very convenient!), a patch, and a spare tube if I'm going on longer rides. 
> Probably saved me another pound or so.
>
> My next biggest weight was bags and racks. A Marks front rack is about a 
> pound or so. Then a basket is another pound. Then another canvas bag can be 
> another pound or as well. I switched to rear bag that just straps onto my 
> saddle loops. XPAC also makes the bag weigh much less. I also run a 
> rackless front bag. This also saved me some weight as well.
>
> I think the thing to keep in mind is how useful and convenient you want 
> your bike to be. A basket with a front bag is super convenient. Running 
> triple crankset is super convenient. Sometimes convenience has a weight 
> penalty. I'm actually thinking of going back to the basket up front, just 
> because it was so convenient. 
>
> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:56:35 PM UTC-4, Kiley Demond wrote:
>>
>> Now that my Riv is Gabriel's Riv, and seeing it stripped down to its 
>> original glory, I think about what wasn't perfect and what I would like to 
>> do for my next bike, a time-honored technique for dealing with loss; in 
>> this case, the loss of a bike. 
>>
>> I love steel frames. I can't imagine not having a steel bike, but since I 
>> am 5'10" (the 91 PBH is the real issue), the frame is large, and even 
>> though I am strong, I am still a 60-year old woman. My pimped Cheviot was* 
>> heavy.* Getting it up the three steps to my front porch wasn't easy. 
>> Given that, what could be done to make one of these bikes lighter? I took 
>> Grant's "let's not quibble about weight" philosophy to heart, so when I 
>> added some essential accessories, they were all shiny steel. Like stacking 
>> tolerances, it all added up. I didn't know much about components when I 
>> first got the bike, but I learned from understanding and replacing what I 
>> didn't like (and I did end up with the Bosco aluminum bars because they 
>> were the "right" size). I could *read* about it, but I really needed to 
>> *feel 
>> *about it. (Speaking of which, I always thought that a Build-a-Bike 
>> program would be a great idea. It is a cross between Build-a-Bear and Book 
>> Club; you buy the frame and then learn how to build up a bike, and you can 
>> swap out components until you find the ones that work for you. The first 
>> class is the theoretical parts discussion over a beer or coffee depending 
>> on the time of day, where you pick your frame, and subsequent meetings are 
>> building and testing riding.)
>>
>> *Anyhow*, thoughts on reducing weight on a bike? I figure this needs to 
>> be considered at the component level up (or is that down?), if the frame is 
>> a given. 
>>
>> (My next bike will be another mixte or step-thru, which unless something 
>> changes in the next two years, will be a Cheviot or L-Clem. I also want it 
>> to be e-Bike "compatible". I cannot buy an off-the-rack eBike because no 
>> one makes a mixte or step-thru large enough, and I still want the bike to 
>> be a pleasure to ride!)
>>
>> Kiley
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Kiley Demond]

Thanks, Wally. The steps were really only an example; prior to my Chev 
going to Gabriel, I moved it to the shop so there were no steps involved. 
It's just the overall agility. I know it is all about tradeoffs and options 
to consider when deciding on those tradeoffs.

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 3:58:37 AM UTC-7, Wally Estrella wrote:
>
> Kiley,
>
> For the steps I'd suggest installing a board to the outer edge of the 
> steps to roll up or down. Keep it wide enough for getting the bike on, but 
> narrow enough to not become a trip hazard.
>
> CHEERS!
> Wally
>
> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:56:35 PM UTC-4, Kiley Demond wrote:
>>
>> Now that my Riv is Gabriel's Riv, and seeing it stripped down to its 
>> original glory, I think about what wasn't perfect and what I would like to 
>> do for my next bike, a time-honored technique for dealing with loss; in 
>> this case, the loss of a bike. 
>>
>> I love steel frames. I can't imagine not having a steel bike, but since I 
>> am 5'10" (the 91 PBH is the real issue), the frame is large, and even 
>> though I am strong, I am still a 60-year old woman. My pimped Cheviot was* 
>> heavy.* Getting it up the three steps to my front porch wasn't easy. 
>> Given that, what could be done to make one of these bikes lighter? I took 
>> Grant's "let's not quibble about weight" philosophy to heart, so when I 
>> added some essential accessories, they were all shiny steel. Like stacking 
>> tolerances, it all added up. I didn't know much about components when I 
>> first got the bike, but I learned from understanding and replacing what I 
>> didn't like (and I did end up with the Bosco aluminum bars because they 
>> were the "right" size). I could *read* about it, but I really needed to 
>> *feel 
>> *about it. (Speaking of which, I always thought that a Build-a-Bike 
>> program would be a great idea. It is a cross between Build-a-Bear and Book 
>> Club; you buy the frame and then learn how to build up a bike, and you can 
>> swap out components until you find the ones that work for you. The first 
>> class is the theoretical parts discussion over a beer or coffee depending 
>> on the time of day, where you pick your frame, and subsequent meetings are 
>> building and testing riding.)
>>
>> *Anyhow*, thoughts on reducing weight on a bike? I figure this needs to 
>> be considered at the component level up (or is that down?), if the frame is 
>> a given. 
>>
>> (My next bike will be another mixte or step-thru, which unless something 
>> changes in the next two years, will be a Cheviot or L-Clem. I also want it 
>> to be e-Bike "compatible". I cannot buy an off-the-rack eBike because no 
>> one makes a mixte or step-thru large enough, and I still want the bike to 
>> be a pleasure to ride!)
>>
>> Kiley
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Kiley Demond]

Thank you for the great reply! I agree it is a balancing act.

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 12:26:24 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> My *speculative* thoughts on reducing weight on a bike but still keeping 
> good functionality:
>
> 1. Luggage - use luggage that requires no rack. Try light bags: Sackville 
> banana sax and sackville bartube, Brooks Milford, etc.
> 2. Lighter wheelsets.  Aerohead by Velocity I think is their lightest rim 
> that is Rivish ( and will fit wide tires). One of the Mavic Open Pro models 
> is like 405 g rim. Shimano 105 hubs may be lighter than typical Rivbuild 
> Deore? Guessing?
> 3. Remove fenders (they act as hood scoops and sails to catch air and slow 
> you down. I don't care what Bicycle Quarterly says.
> 4. Don't use a Rando box shaped front bag - flatness of the front of the 
> bag pushes air, slowing you down, I don't care what Bicycle Quarterly says. 
> Plus Berthoud bags are heavy, even empty, even without the stiffners. My 
> GB25 is a little over 600 grams empty/no stiffner. Sackville bartube is a 
> little over 100g. Of course, the GB25 is more functional than a bartube, 
> but with the also lightweight banana sax...or 400+g Milford you are still 
> at less weight than a GB25 bag.
> 5. Carbon *non-structural* stuff all over bike: bottle cages, derailers, 
> bike pump, etc.
> 6. Go to DT shifting to save weight on cables/housings and give bike 
> cleaner look.
> 7. Losing body fat - changing your power to weight ratio should help make 
> it easier pedalling on down the road.
> 8. Any component replaced has to be lighter than the previous one.
> 9. Use lightweight tires like Grand Bois tires.
> 10. Remove any bike computers and fittings and use a cycling phone app 
> instead if you carry a cell phone anyway when you ride.
>
> I think it is a balancing act. Keeping the bike light but with the 
> functionality you want.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Peter White]

The light in the photo is not an Ixon. It's an Ixon Core. It has a built-in
lithium battery that charges via USB. The Ixon, now called Ixon IQ Premium,
is a different and slightly larger headlight that does run on 4 AA
batteries and has a 5 hour run time at full power; 20 hours at low power.
The width of the Ixon Core beam is about ½ that of the Ixon. We import both
and sell quite a few direct to consumers as well as to shops all over the
US and Canada.

PJW
Peter White Cycles

On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Yes. Busch and Muller makes the Ixon light, which uses 4 AA batteries.
> Nice light that runs 3 hours on high, 15 on low. The low setting is OK for
> me in dark places (our in the country away from streetlights); YMMV.
>
> I’ve never seen them for sale in a US shop. Bought mine from a German
> online store.
>
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>
> –Eric N
>
>
> > On Aug 18, 2018, at 3:54 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:
> >
> > Anyone make asymmetrical batt lights?
> >
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Tom Wyland]

Here two of the shaped beam lights that are battery powered.  I had the 
AA-powered one for many years before I invested in a dynamo set up.
http://www.dontgethit.com/3wrehe.html

http://www.dontgethit.com/3waledbihe.html

Don’t expect them to last forever, but worth a try.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes. Busch and Muller makes the Ixon light, which uses 4 AA batteries. Nice 
light that runs 3 hours on high, 15 on low. The low setting is OK for me in 
dark places (our in the country away from streetlights); YMMV. 

I’ve never seen them for sale in a US shop. Bought mine from a German online 
store. 

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–Eric N


> On Aug 18, 2018, at 3:54 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:
> 
> Anyone make asymmetrical batt lights?
> 
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[RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[Lum Gim Fong]

I use a Topeak Morph for Carradice Pendle, Brooks Milford, and Berthoud GB 25 
bags.

I use one of those short cylinder pumps from Topeak in my banana sax. Gotta get 
new pumps as both are a few years olde and I don’t want to get caught out with 
rotted seals. I think the Topeak is 9 years olde now.

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Anyone make asymmetrical batt lights?

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[RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[Pondero]

Thanks, Andy! Well done!

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Re: FS: Roadini 57cm Grilver (nearly) complete build $2200

[William R.]

Hi Raymond,

Sorry it took me so long to respond! Yes, I am asking $2200. And yes, it is 
a beautiful bike.

I know that my original post said I was mostly looking to sell to someone 
local and avoid shipping. But I will "bump" this sale now and say that 
$2200 is the sale price shipped to the continental US. I will pack it 
myself. I have done this many times and am good at it. But, if you wish to 
have it professional packed, you would need to pay one of my local shops to 
do that and then I will pay the actual shipping. For anyone interested 
local to my area with no shipping, the price is now $2100. 

I've been meaning to take more photos of the bike as the buyer would 
receive it. In lieu of that please know that the price does not include the 
saddle and does not include any bags, pedals, bottles & bottle cages, bells 
or electronics that are on the bike in the photos in the original post.

All questions welcome and thanks for your interest.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Julian Westerhout]

Symmetrical beam lights are ok in trail riding where you will not be 
encountering oncoming cyclists and motorists (and in fact in that sort of 
use can be good, as they'll show you tree limbs, etc that are high up), but 
are horrible for road riding, as they often blind oncoming traffic, which 
is not only impolite, but can be dangerous. 

Most/many battery lights in the US are symmetrical, and I've been blinded 
 by the powerful ones them both riding and driving at night. Very 
disconcerting and scary to essentially go black for a few seconds after 
being blitzed by these lights. If you do decide to go symmetrical, don't 
use that light on the road. 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 11:38:23 PM UTC-4, Collin A wrote:
>
> It doesn't answer your question, but I recommend taking a look at the 
> klite 1300 lumen light. Its a symmetrical light that (at least in the US) 
> I've found to be more useful than an asymmetrical light for all-round 
> riding. It's also bright as the dickens, but adds a noticeable amount of 
> drag on the dynamo hub.
>
> I've found it more useful than the schmidt due to the asymmetry of the 
> light beam.
>
> On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-7, Chris Corral wrote:
>>
>> Winter approaches, and as summer wastes away so do our hours of sunlight!
>>
>> I am looking to outfit my new bike with a tour-worthy lamp and am 
>> wondering if anyone has direct experience or opinions between the B IQ-x, 
>> Schmidt Edlux II, and the new Sinewave Beacon (Bacon?). I have personally 
>> owned the IQ-X and taken it on tours across Colorado, New Mexico, old 
>> Mexico, and Western Europe. Through rain, wind, dust and shine it performed 
>> flawlessly and I would buy it again. But I am interested in the USB 
>> charging capabilities and potential performance benefits of the Beacon or 
>> Schmidt. I also know those two have better standlights, with the Sinewave 
>> able to run on a battery cache. My riding is a healthy mix of on/off road, 
>> with tours gravitating towards off-road. I will also use this light on my 
>> tandem.
>>
>> I guess I have two questions. 
>> 1) Are the Schmidt and Sinewave worth the price premium over the IQ-X? 
>> 2) How is the new Sinewave Beacon anyway?
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[ascpgh]

Here's the pump on the dowel of my Carradice Nelson Longflap. Boy does it 
all have a lot of beausage in flash photos! It's earned it from being in 
since I've had it in use since 2002. The white bands are giant zip ties 
holding the D-ring for the draw cord. The OEM Delrin one died years ago.

The pump clip is zip tied to the dowel as it would to frame tube in 
alternatively from a set of water bottle bosses. The contour fits nicely, 
zip ties just tight enough but let it swing out of the way. There is no 
quieter pump than one inside your bag.






Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh


On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 12:53:04 PM UTC-4, Pondero wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> Thanks for the reminder about mounting on the dowel.  I've heard about 
> this approach before (maybe from you?), and have thought of doing this 
> myself.  Would you mind, if it isn't too far off topic, posting a photo of 
> how you oriented the mounting?
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 6:16:17 AM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
>>
>> Topeak mini is the pump I have with me every day on my commute. I mounted 
>> the frame clip, intended for one of the water bottle bosses, on the dowel 
>> inside my Carradice Nelson Longflap. It stays up out of the way, out of 
>> sight, quiet and ready to grab even if the bag is full. No roadside 
>> disengorging necessary. 
>>
>> That bike uses 700 x 40 tires. Flats are  not convenient, happen at odd 
>> times and places, all far from your trusty floor pump. I don't discredit 
>> the small size and reps needed to fill my tube/tire. I'm happy that it 
>> works wonderfully on those rare occasions when I've depended on it.
>>
>>  I do have the full sized Topeak frame pump and it rattles a bit where 
>> the handle telescopes over the body when mounted. Stuff like that is 
>> irritating when you take so much care to keep your bicycle so quiet in 
>> operation. You know, that one tick or click that escaped your careful 
>> service and maintenance, letting your mind ruin a perfectly wonderful ride.
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 6:24:33 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>>
>>> This topic comes up periodically so forgive me for raising it yet again! 
>>> I need a good pump that will fit inside a Medium Sackville bag.
>>> Lezyne is one that comes to mind and I believe I've seen it recommended 
>>> here.
>>>
>>> Thank you for your comments.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Rich in ATL 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Neil Doran]

I suggest we all continue to put baskets on Nitto racks, load them up, and not 
be stupid. 

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