[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread tuolumne bikes 
The difference between the first bead and the second is that there's the 
opposite bead and tube conspiring to push the second bead out of the groove. 
Two suggestions.

1. After starting the second bead, stuff a length of 1/4 inch nylon tube 
between the rim and bead to ensure the bead isn't being pushed out of the 
groove. Not usually necessary, but you have presented a worst case.

2. Since the valve stem fills the groove, leave the valve stem as the last 
place to push on the bead. Also, if you have to use a tool for the final push, 
the reinforcement of the tube at the stem and ability to push the stem into the 
tire may make it a bit easier to avoid pinching the tube.

Carl, Columbia, CA

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Mark C 

I was just looking at the Rivendell site and see that the mid sizes is 
actually 54 and 57, not 54 and 58, and that the 57 would be fine for me. I 
think some info in this thread might be from a previous run. 

Just didn't want to be spreading bad info. The bike is still lovely and 
very tempting.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Joe Bernard 
That's correct, Will hadn't even seen the orange (he mentioned this somewhere) 
'til the Blue Lug photos. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Mark C 
Oh my, that is pretty. It may even beat out the creamsicle Rambouillet for 
prettiest Rivendell, at least to my taste. I take it I've missed the 
presale now. I was struggling with size; it is hard for me to imagine 
getting a 54" when my other Rivs are 60 to 62. The sizing of the Susie feel 
in a perfect place for me, but just couldn't convince myself I needed that 
bike. And the Appaloosa is really still more bike than I need, but that 
picture might have swayed me. I assume they ordered the bikes, and picked 
the color, but did not have a picture yet of the finished product.

For now I think I'm back to finding the biggest tire I can fit on my 
Rambouillet. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Garage Cleanout - Tires (650b/29"), Nitto Bars/Stems, Canti Brakes, Misc. Parts

2020-02-02 Thread David B 
Tallux stem, Nitto seatpost, and Exage brake levers have sold. Dibs taken 
on the M174 bars. Adding some saddle wedges I forgot I had and updating 
list below.

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 1:02:47 PM UTC-6, David B wrote:
Finally cleaning up my garage and clearing out parts that I've hung onto 
for too long. This is round 1 - there are likely more parts that'll shake 
loose - so if you're after something particular, doesn't hurt to ask.

> Paypal for payment, regular goods/services is fine.
Contact offlist if you're interested or have questions - photos available 
via email.
Shipping is mostly included except for a few items - these will be noted.
Pickup in River Grove, IL (just west of Chicago) is an option too. 
Thanks!
David

Bags (all my own brand)

   - Saddle Wedge - brush brown Martexin waxed canvas, rolltop closure with 
   flap, black trim - $50 shipped - https://www.instagram.com/p/B48S_pfl2Zf/ 
   (2nd bag photographed)
   - Saddle Wedge - brown XPac X10 cotton duck - lightweight fabric - 
   rolltop closure - slightly larger than my normal design - $50 shipped - 
   https://www.instagram.com/p/B48S_pfl2Zf/ (first bag photographed)
   - Saddle Wedge - charcaol gray XPac X10 cotton duck - lightweight fabric 
   - rolltop closure with exterior flap - tan leather trim - $50 shipped - 
   https://www.instagram.com/p/B48S_pfl2Zf/ (third bag photographed)
   - Saddle Wedge - brush brown Martexin waxed canvas, rolltop closure - 
   $40 shipped
   - Basket Bag - black Martexin waxed canvas - fits Wald 137 basket, 
   rolltop closure with leather strap/buckle closure, couple loops to use 
   toestraps to attach to basket, but best with a net/strap - d-rings for a 
   should strap and includes a matching leather shoulder strap - leather is 
   Horween tan essex (very nice stuff) I've been using this one occasionally 
   as a regular shopping bag off the bike - $45 shipped - 
   - Mini Randonneur Bag - compact, lightweight design for a small front 
   rack, brown XPac X10 cotton duck lightweight fabric, gray trim - $65 shipped
   
 *Tires*

   - WTB Byway Tires - 650b x 47mm - emergency backup pair or to test 
   clearances, a buncha wear on tread but still life in the tread, however 
   sidewalls are starting to show threads through the rubber - $25 shipped
   - Bruce Gordon Rock n Road Tires - 650b x 43mm - tanwalls, wear 
   noticeable but still miles left in them - $40 shipped
   - Soma Grand Randonneur Tires - 650b x 42mm - tanwalls, extra light 
   version, wear noticeable, but still miles left in them, tan walls - $40 
   shipped
   - Continental "Basketball" Contact Speed - 650b x 50mm - like new 
   condition, wire bead, just a tad too big for my converted Redwood - $45 
   shipped
   - Continental Speed King 2.2 Tires - 29 x 2.2 - minimal tread design - 
   rides like a big road tire, very light weight and supple, minimal wear to 
   tread - $60 shipped
   - Schwalbe Studded Tires - Marathon Winter/Winter Plus - 26" x 2.0 - one 
   Marathon Winter with light wear but nice condition, and one new Marathon 
   Plus, had these on my beater but clearances for fenders with snow is a bit 
   too close, so I'm sizing down - $70 plus shipping

*Stems*
>
>- Nitto Dirt Drop Stem - nice condition, light shopwear - 26.0mm 
>clamp, 10cm - $50 shipped
>- Nitto Technomic Deluxe - nice condition, 25.4mm clamp, 11cm - $50 
>shipped
>- Velo Orange Threadless Stem - 10cm, 26.0mm clamp, +/- 6 degrees, 
>never used, but some shopwear - $25 shipped
>
> *Seatposts*
>
>- HL Aero Seatpost - 27.2mm, some scratches but aero section is clean 
>- $15 shipped
>
> *Racks*
>
>- Nitto Front Rack - mounts to canti studs like an M12, curved stays, 
>platform is longer than the M12 - $50 plus shipping
>- Velo Orange Constructeur Front Rack - like new, mounted but never 
>used, newer design with adjustable strut - $70 plus shipping
>
> *Handlebars*
>
>- Nitto B132 Drop Bars - randonneur shaped bar, 44cm, 25.4mm clamp, 
>fairly clean clamp area, buncha tape residue - $20 plus shipping
>- Nitto M174 Drop Bars - compact Noodle-shaped bar, designed by 
>Fairweather I believe - 25.4mm clamp, 42cm measured at hoods (like 
> Noodle), 
>so ~43mm c-c on ends - $35 plus shipping (DIBS APPLIED)
>- Nitto B132 V-Brake Drop Bar Setup - for your beater/lock-up bike - 
>includes:
>   - Nitto B132 Drop Bar - 44cm, bunch scratches on clamp sleeve
>   - Kalloy Uno Dirt Drop Quill Stem - 10cm - silver
>   - Tektro V-Brake Aero Drop Bar Levers - all black
>   - cables/housing - black (full housing for rear brake)
>   - V-brakes - generic black v-brakes with pads/noodles, no mounting 
>   bolts
>   - bars wrapped in Newbaums pink/purple tape in a Speedblend nod
>   - $40 plus shipping for everything
>
> *Brakes*
>
>- Dia Compe DC-750 Centerpull Brakes - mounted but in like new 
>condition, nutted version, though I swapped M6 domed

[RBW] Re: FS: tires

2020-02-02 Thread Joe T 
On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 9:11:13 AM UTC-6, Joe T wrote:
> I need to clean out my storage and pass on to those that will use it.
> I have some tires for sale and will have more items soon enough. 
> 
> One pair of new never seen or touched tarmac Compass Snoqualmie Pass 700X44c. 
> I did mount these up to check for frame clearance but ended up selling the 
> frame, so they have been just sitting around. $130 shipped.
> 
> One pair of lightly used Compass 650X48 Switchback Hill Extra Light Tires. 
> Never off road or gravel ridden. Orange seal boogies. I peeled off a lot of 
> it. Excellent condition. $140 shipped
> 
> One pair of Soma Cazaderro 700X42, not tubeless compatible. Had a few rides 
> on them a few years ago. Still perfect.  $75 shipped —-SOLD—-


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Re: [RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread MCT 
Analog cycles has a good guide.  I know others have given plenty of advice, but 
I have found that combining multiple layers of advice usually gets it figured 
out.

https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/

Matt in OKC

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Patrick Moore 
This is *hors sujet* but not entirely, relating to rednecks in pickup
trucks.

Long ago, I stupidly planted my front wheel in a cattle guard at a
relatively heavily trafficked intersecton and did the expected flip over
the bar, smashing the wheel and bruising ribs. A line of cars pass me by
with gawking occupants, some laughing, but I was picked up by 2 lily-white
fatboys out of Deliverance with full beards in a black-primered pickup, who
kindly took me to the ER -- they were on the way to get valves for one of
their Harley's ground. Moral, don't judge the book by its beard and paint
job. (I wasn't badly injured except in my pride.)

On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 9:31 AM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> At this point in the discussion my biggest concern for the OP is this:
>
> "The area I live in is pretty backward. There are a number of cyclists,
> but also lots of harassment from drivers while riding...mostly from young
> white males in pickup trucks."
>
> That's not really a manageable risk for he lives amongst morons.
>
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Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Patrick Moore 
I have to agree with those whose approach to obeying traffic laws is
pragmatic, since sometimes these laws don't fit well with the situation;
this applies in spades to cycling where, IMO, one's own safety is paramount
after that of others for which you are responsible, and where following the
strict letter of the law can be death (as St. Paul teaches us. Wait a
minute ...).

I live 1/2 mile north off an access road from a major E-W artery, which it
is necessary to cross to get to the city's major N-S bike/recreational
trail. The artery is divided at the intersection, with provision only for
cars heading West and turning South. I have with full deliberation, for lo
these 16 years, violated the traffic law by using this left/South turn lane
as a way to turn East toward the bike path. Until I carped and nagged at
the City to put in a ped crossing a few yards East of the intersection,
there was no realistic legal way for a cyclist to make this crossing. They
did put in said ped crossing, but it's a half-assed (tech term in project
management) solution that requires the cyclist to walk or ride East across
the mouth of the access road just where cars behind him are piling up to
turn right/West, and cars approaching from the East may well be planning to
turn right/North. So I continue to violate the law happily unless traffic
his really heavy, in which case I walk the bike as described to the new ped
crossing. So sue me!

(When I gently suggested that the City install a zebra crossing, or at
least a ped crossing sign, either at the junction or a few yards north, the
rep said, "Nope, 'cause that would give pedestrians the idea that they had
a legal right to cross there." Or meaning to that effect. Again, dumbass
half assery predicated on the principle that the car is real and that
nothing else is.)






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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Steve Palincsar 
This is the standard recommendation now for "tubeless ready" rims.  
Also, the best tip for Deacon Patrick's situation is *NEVER* use tools 
to mount a tire.


On 2/2/20 7:03 PM, Mark C wrote:
Thinner rim tape can really help with a tight tire/rim combination. I 
prefer Velox rim tape, but have one set of 26" wheels that are nearly 
impossible to mount tires on. Switching to a thin plastic rim strip 
made them doable. These were just some cheapies I had around, but I 
picked up a Schwalbe branded version at our bike co-op just in case I 
ever encounter this frustration again. I believe those are readily 
available and seem to be good quality. The plastic probably is a bit 
slicker too, which might contribute a bit.


On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 9:59:20 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove
(bottom of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but
invariably with a brand new, not yet stretched tire, using the
tire iron to leverage that last bit over the rim runs a 50/50
chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially inflated to help
it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle back). Any
tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
www.CatholicHalos.org 
www.DeaconPatrick.org 

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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Patrick Moore 
I have a Koolstop tire jack that works well for excessively tight tires and
doesn't touch the tube; this works better than the VAR which IME flexes too
easily to be convenient.

There seem to be other makes out there, too:

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=kool+stop+tire+bead+jack=ffab=v167-1=shopping

On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 7:59 AM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove (bottom
> of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a brand
> new, not yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that last bit
> over the rim runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially
> inflated to help it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle
> back). Any tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
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> 
> .
>


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Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Looking for 4" section (or so) of nice, silver, aluminum handlebar

2020-02-02 Thread Patrick Moore 
I want to replace the plastic bar on my new accessory bar with a section of
metal tube. (In case the information is useful, the device I have has 2
struts threaded at one end to replace a faceplate stem clamp bolt, and at
the other to take M5 bolts holding on the accessory tube.)

Needless to say, am looking for a straight section. Mut be aluminum (so I
can more easily drill it) and should have no scratches and have a decent
finish. Need not be cold forged.

Happy to pay a few $ for the item and, of course, pay for shipping.

Thanks.

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Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Mark C 
Thinner rim tape can really help with a tight tire/rim combination. I 
prefer Velox rim tape, but have one set of 26" wheels that are nearly 
impossible to mount tires on.  Switching to a thin plastic rim strip made 
them doable. These were just some cheapies I had around, but I picked up a 
Schwalbe branded version at our bike co-op just in case I ever encounter 
this frustration again. I believe those are readily available and seem to 
be good quality. The plastic probably is a bit slicker too, which might 
contribute a bit.

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 9:59:20 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove (bottom 
> of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a brand 
> new, not yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that last bit 
> over the rim runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially 
> inflated to help it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle 
> back). Any tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Garage Cleanout - Tires (650b/29"), Nitto Bars/Stems, Canti Brakes, Misc. Parts

2020-02-02 Thread 'Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch 
Dibs on the Nitto 174 Noodles!
Could you send pics?
Email sent.
Thanks, 
David Lipsky 
Berkeley, CA

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 11:02:47 AM UTC-8, David B wrote:
>
> Finally cleaning up my garage and clearing out parts that I've hung onto 
> for too long. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread George Schick 
Truegolden and masmojo:
I'm finding your comments about the Dallas area intriguing.  I had to live 
there for about 18 months in the mid-90's for business purposes.  I rented 
a small apartment along Royal Lane in Irving, just North of the John 
Carpenter.  I took my bike down there with me and after working hours I'd 
pull out of the apt. complex onto Royal Lane, go West bound across the 
Beltline, and ride along various business park streets up to Tweat(sp?) 
Road, after which I'd ride the frontage road parallel to 121 until it dead 
ended at the river, loop around under the bridge and ride the South bound 
frontage until it stopped.  Then I'd turn around and ride back to complete 
the distance.   Something tells me that such an undertaking might be 
suicidal nowadays.  For one thing, I've been told that Royal Lane has been 
cut through to Dallas County now and runs along the Northern side of the 
city.  Seems to me that such a change would turn Royal Lane into an 
expressway.  Also, as a aside, I recall that one of the most nightmarish 
places to drive (besides the Airport Expressway) was Loop 12.  Still the 
case?  Just curious.



On Saturday, February 1, 2020 at 12:29:58 PM UTC-6, masmojo wrote:
>
> For me in comes down to one very basic principle and that is the road ways 
> and everything associated with them were designed for *motor vehicles *simple 
> really. As a result they were not designed for me OR my bicycle.  I am 
> forced to deal with a system that was not designed for me. So, If I take 
> liberties fine I've got to do whats good for me.  I've been riding for as 
> long as I can remember pretty much and although the way I ride has changed 
> it's more of an evolution than anything. Over time I know what works and 
> what doesn't.
>
> Even in situations where there's bike lanes, (Which I do use when it makes 
> sense) they were put in after the fact, problem we have here in Dallas is 
> there's insane numbers of people moving here and it's quickly overwhelming 
> our Infrastructure, roads especially. NOTE to people thinking about moving 
> here *Please don't* it's starting to really really Suck!
>
> We ARE expanding bike trails and whatnot at a aggressive rate, but 
> unfortunately I think the perception of Bike trails in general is that they 
> are a Recreational resource; this mindset makes me a little crazy, Because, 
> people can walk, Run, Or even casually recreate on their bicycle just about 
> anywhere.  If you are not going anywhere, you can go nowhere, just about 
> anyplace.  A bike path should facilitate alternative transport and it will 
> be very effective at that if we keep that in mind. Don't build bike paths 
> from nowhere to nowhere. I am OK with people walking their dogs or 
> whatever, but 9 times out of 10 I am using the bikepath or trail for 
> Transportation, as a practical tool, putting tax dollars to functional use, 
> decreasing traffic for the other people who are not so inclined. Is it 
> wrong for me to expect a little consideration? I don't think so; I try to 
> work with the cars, the traffic in a collaborative fashion, you give me a 
> little space and I'll give you a little space, etc.
>
> Fortunately, on my 16 mile one way ride to work, roughly half of it is on 
> a bike path, another 4ish miles are residential/lightly traveled streets, 
> but balance is sidewalks. No biggie really, I don't think riding a bike on 
> the sidewalk is technically legal, but it's kind of understood that it's 
> the only safe option. The only place I've ever caught any grief for riding 
> on the sidewalk was Guadalupe St. in Austin, but that was 30 years ago.
>
> So, Yeah, I don't know why I had to unpack all that, but do what's good 
> for you on or off your, bike; I'm not going to judge.
>
> But, the whole riding on the sidewalk is against the law argument, just 
> kinda gets me fired up. It's one thing if you live in NYC, SF or maybe 
> Chicago, but just about anywhere else in this country it's frequently your 
> best option. I try to be courteous, because I think it's in my best 
> interest, but we cannot continue to grow automotive use, sadly it's not 
> sustainable.
> Bike commuting is growing here, despite the ever shrinking availability of 
> shops catering to cyclist, that should be a sign.
> I expect Ebike commuting to Double in 2020 and probably every year after 
> that.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Leah Peterson 
I know this was a horror story with the threatening drivers and untimely death 
of your mother. But aside from that, I was enthralled picturing a free-spirited 
but grieving long-haired teen riding along the ocean, racing the squalls coming 
off of the Pacific and night riding on lonely beach town streets. 

I’m so sorry about your mom, John. It sounds like your bike helped you deal, 
and I’m glad it did and that you were unharmed on your rides.

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 2, 2020, at 11:39 AM, John Phillips  wrote:
> 
> 
> I had forgotten that I had gone through a time like our OP's 47 years ago 
> in 1974. 
> 
> I was in my early teens, had a drop bar bike and would blow off steam by 
> taking hour long rides after school along the ocean. Then three things 
> happened, my mom passed away, I grew my hair long out of anger and rebellion 
> and because she wasn't around any longer to pester me, and tourism really, 
> really took off. The roads were filling up with people in cars not watching 
> the road, or opening car doors without looking, or standing in the middle of 
> the road to take in the view. Or they really hated long haired kids on bikes. 
> Several times I found myself checking over my shoulder or under my left arm 
> to find the mirror of a Winnebago 3-4 feet from my head even though I was 
> hugging the right-hand edge of the asphalt, and the driver glaring at me with 
> intent. There was plenty of room to give me the lane, let alone 1-2 feet of 
> space, but no, I didn't belong there and he was going to give me a lesson. 
> There were too many people who didn't have a qualm running a long haired 
> teenager off the road or hitting them with their vehicle.
> 
> So I took to riding at night. Nearly no body was on those roads at night, 
> and I could hear cars coming from a long way off or see the headlights, and I 
> would just pull of the road. Or in winter, I rode in stormy weather which 
> kept the tourists away as well. I would try and race the squalls coming in 
> off the Pacific. A couple of years later, I cut my hair, but it was still a 
> bit too risky to ride when the tourists were out. And it was quiet and 
> peaceful having the rods to myself.
> 
>I don't propose this as a solution for anyone. I'm just saying I know what 
> it feels like to fear riding has just become way too dangerous to do anymore.
> 
> John
> 
> PS: There weren't any sidewalks, but sometimes I rode the golf cart paths at 
> night when no one was playing. Mea culpa.
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Joe Bernard 
I had this when I lived in Lake County CA. No shoulders, high speed two-lane 
roads and douchebags in pickups. It just sucked and I didn't ride much. 

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[RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread John Phillips 
I had forgotten that I had gone through a time like our OP's 47 years 
ago in 1974. 

I was in my early teens, had a drop bar bike and would blow off steam 
by taking hour long rides after school along the ocean. Then three things 
happened, my mom passed away, I grew my hair long out of anger and 
rebellion and because she wasn't around any longer to pester me, and 
tourism really, really took off. The roads were filling up with people in 
cars not watching the road, or opening car doors without looking, or 
standing in the middle of the road to take in the view. Or they really 
hated long haired kids on bikes. Several times I found myself checking over 
my shoulder or under my left arm to find the mirror of a Winnebago 3-4 feet 
from my head even though I was hugging the right-hand edge of the asphalt, 
and the driver glaring at me with intent. There was plenty of room to give 
me the lane, let alone 1-2 feet of space, but no, I didn't belong there and 
he was going to give me a lesson. There were too many people who didn't 
have a qualm running a long haired teenager off the road or hitting them 
with their vehicle.

So I took to riding at night. Nearly no body was on those roads at 
night, and I could hear cars coming from a long way off or see the 
headlights, and I would just pull of the road. Or in winter, I rode in 
stormy weather which kept the tourists away as well. I would try and race 
the squalls coming in off the Pacific. A couple of years later, I cut my 
hair, but it was still a bit too risky to ride when the tourists were out. 
And it was quiet and peaceful having the rods to myself.

   I don't propose this as a solution for anyone. I'm just saying I know 
what it feels like to fear riding has just become way too dangerous to do 
anymore.

John

PS: There weren't any sidewalks, but sometimes I rode the golf cart paths 
at night when no one was playing. Mea culpa.


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[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
Bill, I think your step #8 may be the brilliant answer I need. Like you 
allude to, I've been scratching me bald pate that I can get the bloomin' 
tire's first side on with me bare hands so I ought to be able to with the 
second bead well into the blood groove of the rim. I'll give it a go and 
let you know! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 9:48:48 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Deacon
>
> Here's my recommendation for how to convince yourself of a couple things 
>
> 1. Tire is completely off the rim.
> 2. Set the tube aside
> 3. Get one bead of the tire onto the rim with your hands only.  Were you 
> able to do that?  If so, then you've proven that with nothing in your way 
> you can mount that bead with your hands
> 4. If you believe the tire is symmetric, then move to step 6.  If you 
> don't have faith in that fact then take the tire back off and repeat step 3 
> with the other bead
> 5. Now you know you can get either bead onto the rim with only your hands 
> provided nothing is your way.  Get back to one bead on the rim
> 6. Slide in the slightly inflated tube.  Start at the valve stem and get 
> as far around as you can with your hands.  Let's say you get to 80% 
> complete before is starts getting tight. You have about 8" of bead that is 
> not on the rim.
> 7, For the part of the bead that IS on the rim, work all the way around 
> pushing this bead into the very middle of the well, which will be pushing 
> the already mounted bead slightly up and out of the well. 
> 8. When you get back to that 8" section that is not on, pull an 8" section 
> to the left back out.  Now work the tire on from the right. 
> 9. For me the last bit I will pull up and over with my 8 fingers.  The 
> wheel is upright, planted on the ground.  I'm above it and my 8 fingers are 
> grabbing the bead and rolling it OVER the rim.  
>
> I mount all tubeless tires with no tire levers, including brand new ones 
> that are much tighter than ones that I've mounted several times.  I believe 
> there are rim-tire combinations that are unusually tight.  Unusually tight 
> ones may require a second or third run at steps 7 and 8.  The uncovering 
> step in step 8 is important in my opinion because you are sliding the 
> "finishing section" over to a place where the tube is already where it 
> needs to be out of your way.   
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 6:59:20 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove 
>> (bottom of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a 
>> brand new, not yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that 
>> last bit over the rim runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it 
>> partially inflated to help it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to 
>> wiggle back). Any tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Garage Cleanout - Tires (650b/29"), Nitto Bars/Stems, Canti Brakes, Misc. Parts

2020-02-02 Thread David B 
Finally cleaning up my garage and clearing out parts that I've hung onto 
for too long. This is round 1 - there are likely more parts that'll shake 
loose - so if you're after something particular, doesn't hurt to ask.

Paypal for payment, regular goods/services is fine.
Contact offlist if you're interested or have questions - photos available 
via email.
Shipping is mostly included except for a few items - these will be noted.
Pickup in River Grove, IL (just west of Chicago) is an option too. 
Thanks!
David

*Tires*

   - WTB Byway Tires - 650b x 47mm - emergency backup pair or to test 
   clearances, a buncha wear on tread but still life in the tread, however 
   sidewalls are starting to show threads through the rubber - $25 shipped
   - Bruce Gordon Rock n Road Tires - 650b x 43mm - tanwalls, wear 
   noticeable but still miles left in them - $40 shipped
   - Soma Grand Randonneur Tires - 650b x 42mm - tanwalls, extra light 
   version, wear noticeable, but still miles left in them, tan walls - $40 
   shipped
   - Continental "Basketball" Contact Speed - 650b x 50mm - like new 
   condition, wire bead, just a tad too big for my converted Redwood - $45 
   shipped
   - Continental Speed King 2.2 Tires - 29 x 2.2 - minimal tread design - 
   rides like a big road tire, very light weight and supple, minimal wear to 
   tread - $60 shipped
   - Schwalbe Studded Tires - Marathon Winter/Winter Plus - 26" x 2.0 - one 
   Marathon Winter with light wear but nice condition, and one new Marathon 
   Plus, had these on my beater but clearances for fenders with snow is a bit 
   too close, so I'm sizing down - $70 plus shipping

*Stems*

   - Nitto Dirt Drop Stem - nice condition, light shopwear - 26.0mm clamp, 
   10cm - $50 shipped
   - Nitto Tallux Stem - some marks, residue from steerer, 26.0mm clamp, 
   9cm - $45 shipped
   - Nitto Technomic Deluxe - nice condition, 25.4mm clamp, 11cm - $50 
   shipped
   - Velo Orange Threadless Stem - 10cm, 26.0mm clamp, +/- 6 degrees, never 
   used, but some shopwear - $25 shipped

*Seatposts*

   - Nitto S65 Seatpost - 27.2mm, lots of scratches hence the price, 
   shorter length version - $20 shipped
   - HL Aero Seatpost - 27.2mm, some scratches but aero section is clean - 
   $15 shipped

*Racks*

   - Nitto Front Rack - mounts to canti studs like an M12, curved stays, 
   platform is longer than the M12 - $50 plus shipping
   - Velo Orange Constructeur Front Rack - like new, mounted but never 
   used, newer design with adjustable strut - $70 plus shipping

*Handlebars*

   - Nitto B132 Drop Bars - randonneur shaped bar, 44cm, 25.4mm clamp, 
   fairly clean clamp area, buncha tape residue - $20 plus shipping
   - Nitto M174 Drop Bars - compact Noodle-shaped bar, designed by 
   Fairweather I believe - 25.4mm clamp, 42cm measured at hoods (like Noodle), 
   so ~43mm c-c on ends - $35 plus shipping
   - Nitto B132 V-Brake Drop Bar Setup - for your beater/lock-up bike - 
   includes:
  - Nitto B132 Drop Bar - 44cm, bunch scratches on clamp sleeve
  - Kalloy Uno Dirt Drop Quill Stem - 10cm - silver
  - Tektro V-Brake Aero Drop Bar Levers - all black
  - cables/housing - black (full housing for rear brake)
  - V-brakes - generic black v-brakes with pads/noodles, no mounting 
  bolts
  - bars wrapped in Newbaums pink/purple tape in a Speedblend nod
  - $40 plus shipping for everything
   
*Brakes*

   - Dia Compe DC-750 Centerpull Brakes - mounted but in like new 
   condition, nutted version, though I swapped M6 domed allen bolts and 
   recessed nuts when I mounted them - $45 shipped
   - Tektro CR-720 Cantilever Brake Arms/Springs - just the brake arms and 
   springs, not mounting bolts, pads/holders, straddle yokes or cables - 
   polished silver - $13 shipped
   - Shimano STX BR-MC32 Cantilever Brakes - low profile design, smooth 
   finish similar to Nitto Tallux stem, made in Japan - $25 shipped
   - Shimano BR-AT50 Cantilever Brakes - silver, comes with new Koolstop 
   salmon pads, no mounting bolts, these work on older frames with narrower 
   canti stud spacing - $25 shipped
   - Shimano BR-M550 Deore LX Cantilever Brakes - silver, no mounting 
   bolts, come with Koolstop salmon pads, these also work nicely on older 
   frames with narrower canti stud spacing - $25 shipped 
   
*Misc. Parts*

   - Tektro V-Brake Aero Levers for Drop Bars - used minimally, nice 
   condition, silver levers - $15 shipped
   - Shimano Exage Aero Brake Levers - older model, lots of wear, but these 
   are a rare Shimano aero lever with a built in quick release button similar 
   to Tektros - $15 shipped
   - Shimano Double-Sided Platform/SPD Pedals - used pretty heavily but 
   still seem fine - plastic washer/seal on axle on one pedal has broken off - 
   $15 shipped
   - Shimano Triple Crank - RX100 Polished Silver Finish - 175mm length, 
   130/74 bcd, new with some shopwear - no chainrings, but I have some if you 
   want to discuss - $40

[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread John Phillips 
Patrick,

 My only tubeless rims are Velocity Cliffhangers, and I've only tried 
this with Rene Herse and Schwalbe tubeless compatible tires, so I don't 
have a lot of experience, but...

 I use 2 Crank Brothers Speedier Levers which clip to the rim allowing 
you to let go and inspect if the bead is still down in the well where I 
want it, and that your tube isn't sneaking it's way out back under the bead 
you're working on. After I get the first bead on, I insert the tube and try 
to fill it up enough to make it behave, but not so much it interferes with 
keeping the beads down in the well. Once the second bead is on, I check 
again that the tube isn't caught under either bead, them use a floor pump 
to seat the beads on the rim.

 Which rims, tubes and tires are you using?

Best of luck!

John

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[RBW] FS: Garage Cleanout - Tires (650b/29"), Nitto Bars/Stems, Canti Brakes, Misc. Parts

2020-02-02 Thread David B 
Finally cleaning up my garage and clearing out parts that I've hung onto 
for too long. This is round 1 - there are likely more parts that'll shake 
loose - so if you're after something particular, doesn't hurt to ask.

Paypal for payment, regular goods/services is fine.
Contact offlist if you're interested or have questions - photos available 
via email.
Shipping is mostly included except for a few items - these will be noted.
Pickup in River Grove, IL (just west of Chicago) is an option too. 
Thanks!
David

*Tires*

   - WTB Byway Tires - 650b x 47mm - emergency backup pair or to test 
   clearances, a buncha wear on tread but still life in the tread, however 
   sidewalls are starting to show threads through the rubber - $25 shipped
   - Bruce Gordon Rock n Road Tires - 650b x 43mm - tanwalls, wear 
   noticeable but still miles left in them - $40 shipped
   - Soma Grand Randonneur Tires - 650b x 42mm - tanwalls, extra light 
   version, wear noticeable, but still miles left in them, tan walls - $40 
   shipped
   - Continental "Basketball" Contact Speed - 650b x 50mm - like new 
   condition, wire bead, just a tad too big for my converted Redwood - $45 
   shipped
   - Continental Speed King 2.2 Tires - 29 x 2.2 - minimal tread design - 
   rides like a big road tire, very light weight and supple, minimal wear to 
   tread - $60 shipped
   - Schwalbe Studded Tires - Marathon Winter/Winter Plus - 26" x 2.0 - one 
   Marathon Winter with light wear but nice condition, and one new Marathon 
   Plus, had these on my beater but clearances for fenders with snow is a bit 
   too close, so I'm sizing down - $70 plus shipping

*Stems*

   - Nitto Dirt Drop Stem - nice condition, light shopwear - 26.0mm clamp, 
   10cm - $50 shipped
   - Nitto Tallux Stem - some marks, residue from steerer, 26.0mm clamp, 
   9cm - $45 shipped
   - Nitto Technomic Deluxe - nice condition, 25.4mm clamp, 11cm - $50 
   shipped
   - Velo Orange Threadless Stem - 10cm, 26.0mm clamp, +/- 6 degrees, never 
   used, but some shopwear - $25 shipped

*Seatposts*

   - Nitto S65 Seatpost - 27.2mm, lots of scratches hence the price, 
   - HL Aero Seatpost - 27.2mm, some scratches but aero section is clean - 
   $15 shipped

*Racks*

   - Nitto Front Rack - mounts to canti studs like an M12, curved stays, 
   platform is longer than the M12 - $50 plus shipping
   - Velo Orange Constructeur Front Rack - like new, mounted but never 
   used, newer design with adjustable strut - $70 plus shipping

*Handlebars*

   - Nitto B132 Drop Bars - randonneur shaped bar, 44cm, 25.4mm clamp, 
   fairly clean clamp area, buncha tape residue - $20 plus shipping
   - Nitto M174 Drop Bars - compact Noodle-shaped bar, designed by 
   Fairweather I believe - 25.4mm clamp, 42cm measured at hoods (like Noodle), 
   so ~43mm c-c on ends - $35 plus shipping
   - Nitto B132 V-Brake Drop Bar Setup - for your beater/lock-up bike - 
   includes:
  - Nitto B132 Drop Bar - 44cm, bunch scratches on clamp sleeve
  - Kalloy Uno Dirt Drop Quill Stem - 10cm - silver
  - Tektro V-Brake Aero Drop Bar Levers - all black
  - cables/housing - black (full housing for rear brake)
  - V-brakes - generic black v-brakes with pads/noodles, no mounting 
  bolts
  - bars wrapped in Newbaums pink/purple tape in a Speedblend nod
  - $40 plus shipping for everything
   
*Brakes*

   - Dia Compe DC-750 Centerpull Brakes - mounted but in like new 
   condition, nutted version, though I swapped M6 domed allen bolts and 
   recessed nuts when I mounted them - $45 shipped
   - Tektro CR-720 Cantilever Brake Arms/Springs - just the brake arms and 
   springs, not mounting bolts, pads/holders, straddle yokes or cables - 
   polished silver - $13 shipped
   - Shimano STX BR-MC32 Cantilever Brakes - low profile design, smooth 
   finish similar to Nitto Tallux stem, made in Japan - 
   - Shimano BR-AT50 Cantilever Brakes - silver, comes with new Koolstop 
   salmon pads, no mounting bolts, these work on older frames with narrower 
   canti stud spacing - 
   - Shimano BR-M550 Deore LX Cantilever Brakes - silver, no mounting 
   bolts, come with Koolstop salmon pads, these also work nicely on older 
   frames with narrower canti stud spacing - 
   
Misc. Parts

   - Tektro V-Brake Aero Levers for Drop Bars - used minimally, nice 
   condition, silver levers - $15 shipped
   - Shimano Exage Aero Brake Levers - older model, lots of wear, but these 
   are a rare Shimano aero lever with a built in quick release button similar 
   to Tektros - $15 shipped
   - Shimano Double-Sided Platform/SPD Pedals - used pretty heavily but 
   still seem fine - plastic washer/seal on axle on one pedal has broken off - 
   $15 shipped
   - Shimano Triple Crank - RX100 Polished Silver Finish - 175mm length, 
   130/74 bcd, new with some shopwear - no chainrings, but I have some if you 
   want to discuss - $40 shipped
   - Willow Chainrings - random sizes remaining at this point - $10

[RBW] WTB: Paul canti brakes and levers

2020-02-02 Thread Birdman 
Hey there fellow Riv Bunchers,
I’m working on a new build and looking for Paul Canti Levers and Cantilever 
brakes in silver. Let me know if you happen to have any gathering dust.
Isaac in Portland, OR

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[RBW] PSA: stop swap and save

2020-02-02 Thread Dave S 
I’m going.  I have a small table with a friend.  Its my first time going but 
Ive heard good things.

Dave

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Mark Roland 
So the OP has had confrontations with young men in pickups? I didn't get that.

In any case, I think wherever you live, the attitude we bring is the most 
important thing. See BBDD. If our attitude is, it's only a matter of time, and 
I'm old, then yes, it may make sense for us to hang up the bike. I think most 
of us are somewhere on this continuum. My current plan is to keel over on the 
side of the road at 87 while riding up a hill with my son.

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[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Bill Lindsay 
Deacon

Here's my recommendation for how to convince yourself of a couple things 

1. Tire is completely off the rim.
2. Set the tube aside
3. Get one bead of the tire onto the rim with your hands only.  Were you 
able to do that?  If so, then you've proven that with nothing in your way 
you can mount that bead with your hands
4. If you believe the tire is symmetric, then move to step 6.  If you don't 
have faith in that fact then take the tire back off and repeat step 3 with 
the other bead
5. Now you know you can get either bead onto the rim with only your hands 
provided nothing is your way.  Get back to one bead on the rim
6. Slide in the slightly inflated tube.  Start at the valve stem and get as 
far around as you can with your hands.  Let's say you get to 80% complete 
before is starts getting tight. You have about 8" of bead that is not on 
the rim.
7, For the part of the bead that IS on the rim, work all the way around 
pushing this bead into the very middle of the well, which will be pushing 
the already mounted bead slightly up and out of the well. 
8. When you get back to that 8" section that is not on, pull an 8" section 
to the left back out.  Now work the tire on from the right. 
9. For me the last bit I will pull up and over with my 8 fingers.  The 
wheel is upright, planted on the ground.  I'm above it and my 8 fingers are 
grabbing the bead and rolling it OVER the rim.  

I mount all tubeless tires with no tire levers, including brand new ones 
that are much tighter than ones that I've mounted several times.  I believe 
there are rim-tire combinations that are unusually tight.  Unusually tight 
ones may require a second or third run at steps 7 and 8.  The uncovering 
step in step 8 is important in my opinion because you are sliding the 
"finishing section" over to a place where the tube is already where it 
needs to be out of your way.   

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 6:59:20 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove (bottom 
> of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a brand 
> new, not yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that last bit 
> over the rim runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially 
> inflated to help it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle 
> back). Any tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Joe Bernard 
At this point in the discussion my biggest concern for the OP is this: 

"The area I live in is pretty backward. There are a number of cyclists, but 
also lots of harassment from drivers while riding...mostly from young white 
males in pickup trucks."

That's not really a manageable risk for he lives amongst morons. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Dorothy C 
It would have been nice if Riv could have posted a clearer picture of the 
orange while the presale was still on. I already have 2 blue Rivendells.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
I would also say one more thing. If I followed the “don’t ever ride on the 
sidewalk” and rode on the street on our school commute there would be absolute 
WAR here. And I’m certain one of the 3 of us would be dead by now. 

There is one way up this mountain and one way down it. Two lanes run each 
direction. Speed limit is supposed to be 35 but everyone goes 50 (yep, me too, 
when I’m driving) because it is a steep descent. There is no bike lane and no 
shoulder. None. There is also a very wide sidewalk, as you saw pictured in my 
previous post. Pedestrians are rare.

If we took the lane we would clog up the traffic for every single member of 
this community trying to get to work and/or school. There would be pandemonium. 
They would honk. They would be enraged. They would write about me on Nextdoor. 
If I followed the advice that cars don’t belong on sidewalks I would be a 
pariah with the cars here. I truly believe I or one of my kids would be dead by 
now if we rode that raceway.

Instead, the people in cars wave at me. They recognize me in the community “hey 
you’re the bike girl!” They say things like, “I have watched you and your boys 
ride your bikes for years. I wish I could do that.” A business owner recognized 
me at a coffee shop one day and showered me with gifts from his shop. The cop 
heading to work in his police SUV waves at me. I got approached by some parents 
who had seen me biking and asked if their kids could join me. So I started a 
bicycle bus. I don’t have a bad relationship with cars. I’m not giving cyclists 
a bad name.

Do what works where you live. Don’t be quick to judge other cyclists who are 
taking reasonable measures to stay alive. Try to get along with drivers - they 
can so easily kill you. Better to make them your allies. Plus, it’s nice 
getting gifts at coffee shops.

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[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Garth 


I saw this Kool-Stop tool recently,  it's different from levers in that it 
catches the bead from the outside while using the other side of the rim for 
leverage. Here's how to use it. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EZRSz1DlHg


Warm tires help, as does lots of talc, and the ineffable PFM  shrugs. 

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Re: [RBW] Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread Peter White 
Extremely high air pressure. Best done with a compressor.

PJW

On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 9:59 AM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove (bottom
> of the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a brand
> new, not yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that last bit
> over the rim runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially
> inflated to help it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle
> back). Any tips for not destroying tubes at this juncture?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 
Peter White

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[RBW] PSA: stop swap and save

2020-02-02 Thread Paul Richardson 
anybody heading out to the east coast's largest indoor bicycle swap and 
consumer expo next sunday?  i've only been once, several years ago, but 
there were plenty of deals to be had.



paul
takoma park, md. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Melanie 
Rambouillet Orange was spectacular. 

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Toyo Fatlantis?

2020-02-02 Thread Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY) 
If you're looking for budget options, check out Continental Race Kings or 
Double Fighter. I've used the latter on my Cheviot when I want to take it 
off-road (don't laugh!), removing the fenders to fit 2" 29ers. You can find 
them for super-cheap at the link below ($13 a pop) and they work perfectly 
fine on and off-road. 

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/continental-double-fighter-iii-29x2.00/135913596/p 


On Saturday, February 1, 2020 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-5, Thomas B wrote:
>
> I would like to put some bigger tires on my Toyo Atlantis for some of the 
> steeper off-road trails around Mt. Tam and East Bay Hills. At the moment I 
> run Barlow Pass and am pretty clueless about off-road tires In general and 
> what to look for. Any advice? 
>
> Recent pictures from fellow El Cerrito resident Hillbubba have been quite 
> inspirational. 
>
> Thanks 
> Tom

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[RBW] Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

2020-02-02 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
I put the new tubeless (thus too tight) tire into the blood groove (bottom of 
the rim well), and that makes it possible, but invariably with a brand new, not 
yet stretched tire, using the tire iron to leverage that last bit over the rim 
runs a 50/50 chance of slicing the tube (I leave it partially inflated to help 
it get out the way, but sometimes it seems to wiggle back). Any tips for not 
destroying tubes at this juncture?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.CatholicHalos.org
www.DeaconPatrick.org

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[RBW] Bags! Revelate, Rapha, Rockgeist, Jones

2020-02-02 Thread lukeheller 
$5 off everything. Help me consolidate trips to the post office. 
Jones bag sold. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread tc 
Looks very close to the old sidepull Sam. Would need to compare in the same 
light. Regardless, beautiful!



Tom

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 1:59:41 AM UTC-5, Grady Wright wrote:
> The Orange in Better light. It’s perfect.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread j.schwartz 
So far looks pretty great..
I think Oranges are tricky to get right and I don't think Rivendell always 
nails with their oranges. ...
I do also think the Butterscotch color from the Original Apps should be an 
always color for that bike..like Hunqapillar Green or Atlantis Submarine 
Green

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 4:34:16 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Yep, that's what I'm seeing. That color looks even better in person, 
> although I must express the sacrilege that I like it better on the Susie 
> without the creamy headtube. I know!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Mark Roland 
Let's look at this from another perspective. Most of the posters on RBW are 
also drivers. I would bet that almost every one of us breaks the law in our 
cars with regularity. As an example, the aforementioned 9D has a speed 
limit of 30mph. Although I am conscientious about my speed on local roads, 
portions of this road are engineered in a way that makes it a huge struggle 
to stay at the posted speed limit, including a section with two lanes. 
(Especially in a machine designed to hit speeds of 90-100mph.) I generally 
go about 35mph in this section, and I'm passed on the right (where a 
cyclist trying to get to the bridge crossing without riding on the sidewalk 
would be) by virtually everyone.

This is pertinent to the discussion here, as every increase in auto speed 
translates to greater chance of death for pedestrians and cyclists in a 
collision with that vehicle. I won't even bring up how many of us do the 
posted limit on highways. So even though all the infrastructure and traffic 
signals are designed for the convenience of the automobile, if it veers off 
of what is the reality, people will disregard the law. And not even for 
safety--in fact "speeding" is demonstrably less safe--but for their own 
convenience.. Even grandmothers and grandfathers. If you have never gone 
above the speed limit, my apologies.

On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 7:47:22 AM UTC-5, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> Cyclists and motor vehicle drivers should both follow traffic laws. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Fullylugged 
BBDG comments that "if sidewalks are clear, I'll use them." This is a valid 
option for her most of the time:
"Nevada permits bicycles to ride on the street and also on most sidewalks 
except in certain large municipal areas with local regulations. To accommodate 
cyclists, cars are required, on single-lane roads, to move over at least three 
feet from a cyclist."
My comment that seems to set off this sidewalk sidebar (my state does not allow 
bikes on sidewalks) was only to say that I don't have that option. Cyclists and 
motor vehicle drivers should both follow traffic laws.  Back to my advice to 
the OP, he should not ride where he is not comfortable about it. My RUSA region 
held a 200K yesterday on a rail-trail and people loved it. I am not against off 
highway riding at all. I'm just flexible.  I rode 51 miles on a US highway 
yesterday with 5 others to route test an upcoming event. It was great. Except 
for the rain, overcast, wind, and some hills :)  Riv content: I rode my '95 
pre-production sample of the Rivendell Road.

YMMV

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread Joe Bernard 
Yep, that's what I'm seeing. That color looks even better in person, although I 
must express the sacrilege that I like it better on the Susie without the 
creamy headtube. I know!

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

2020-02-02 Thread 'Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch 
So, same orange as the Susie/Wolbis orange?
Looks it to my eyes.

David
Berkeley

On Saturday, February 1, 2020 at 10:59:41 PM UTC-8, Grady Wright wrote:
>
> The Orange in Better light. It’s perfect. 

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Toyo Fatlantis?

2020-02-02 Thread Garth 

 
Any off-road tire will work just fine !

If you're asking the "best thought/opinion/bias " *about* tires , there 
isn't one. 




On Saturday, February 1, 2020 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-5, Thomas B wrote:
>
> I would like to put some bigger tires on my Toyo Atlantis for some of the 
> steeper off-road trails around Mt. Tam and East Bay Hills. At the moment I 
> run Barlow Pass and am pretty clueless about off-road tires In general and 
> what to look for. Any advice? 
>
> Recent pictures from fellow El Cerrito resident Hillbubba have been quite 
> inspirational. 
>
> Thanks 
> Tom

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[RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....

2020-02-02 Thread Daniel D. 
I thought wow that's interesting.  But from googling the description of 
traffic accident stats or penalties in India doesn't seem accurate.  

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/may/26/india-reduce-road-death-penalties-high-rate-accidents

On Saturday, February 1, 2020 at 10:27:17 PM UTC-8, Corwin wrote:
>
> car).
>
> What rarely gets mentioned here is that people in the US have a completely 
> different attitude toward driving than drivers in much of the world. When I 
> visit India, I see bikes, cars, busses, trucks, motorcycles, 
> auto-rickshaws, etc. all careening down the street at maximum speed, 
> literally inches from each other (sometimes less) with no road rage. 
> Further, given the number of vehicles on the road, accidents are rare. When 
> an accident does happen, it frequently does not go well for the driver of a 
> motor vehicle if a cyclist or pedestrian has been injured or killed. I 
> think what really needs to happen is that a paradigm shift. Not sure how to 
> make it happen - I think the cost of driving will bring this on 
> independently.
>
> Namaste,
>
>
> Corwin
>

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