Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[Clark Fitzgerald]

Thanks aeroperf! So on your touring style Rivendell you were 100 * 11.2 /
11.6 = 96.5% as fast as your road bike. Now we have three data points! I
hope to see some more...

Rider, PercentSpeed
Clark, 82
Fullylugged, 99
aeroperf, 96.5

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:49 PM aeroperf  wrote:

> Road bike: 1982 Team Fuji with all 2018 equipment (3x9-spd Sora w/105
> brakes, 622x28 tires, drops)
> Riv bike: 2015 Sam Hillborn set up per factory (3x9-spd Suguino/Shimano
> w/Tektro rim brakes, 622x42 tires, Albatross)
> Both bikes had Sigma BC.12.12 computers which were calibrated.
>
> The road bike averaged 11.6 mph on 5 trials and the Sam averaged 11.2 mph
> on 5 trials.
>
> To me, the big differences seemed to be in the gearing and rider
> position.  The Fuji has a 50 tooth big chainring, while my Sam has a 46
> tooth.
> Weight seemed at best a secondary effect.  The Fuji is 28 lb while the Sam
> is 30.5 lb., but I’m 210 lb.
> For another comparison, my 31.5 pound Soma Saga Disc heavy touring bike
> averaged just less than 11.1 mph on the same 5 trials.  It’s big chainring
> has 44 teeth.
>
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[RBW] Re: Long distance tour

[Collin A]

That sounds like quite a treat...

It'd depend on how the bikes are setup, weight distributed, etc. but 
probably the homer for the following reasons:

   - Mostly road and I am a light person, so I'd fall under the recommended 
   weight limits
   - The mental aspect that I am taking a *slightly lighter* bike
   - Whichever bike has drops and wide slick tires (I realize this can be 
   both)
   - It feels like a more Italian countryside appropriate bike than the Joe 
   (less tubes, traditional angles, etc.)

But again, whichever is better setup for the type of riding you described 
would be the one to go with. As everyone here knows, you can make each one 
the bikes feel very different or very similar based on wheels, tires, 
cockpit, etc.

Collin, smoky with jealousy, in Sacramento

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 7:36:46 PM UTC-7 Friend wrote:

> If ya'll were to pack up your bike, travel with it to Italy, and do a bike 
> tour trip there, would you take a double-top-tube Appaloosa or a Homer 
> Hilsen.  It would mostly be paved roads, some gravel, and packed for full 
> camping (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc...)  Why??

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[RBW] Long distance tour

[Friend]

If ya'll were to pack up your bike, travel with it to Italy, and do a bike 
tour trip there, would you take a double-top-tube Appaloosa or a Homer 
Hilsen.  It would mostly be paved roads, some gravel, and packed for full 
camping (stove, tent, sleeping bag, etc...)  Why??

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me optimize my ride

[Eric Floden]

Thanks. I don't know how I missed that picture.

I discovered the straps on my bag (Carradice long-flap)  are too far apart
to move the collars outside the straps, but I moved them further apart than
they were, almost right to the inside of the straps. Now I feel optimized!

And yes, I catch my leg on the frame a couple of times a year. So far, no
damage to the bike, or to me.

EricF
Vancouver

On Sun, 25 Jul 2021 at 16:48, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Check the next photo on the Riv page. Those doohickeys can be spaced
> either inside or outside of the straps so the saddlebag doesn't slide
> around on that bar. You grab it in the middle there to carry the bag after
> you pop the QR open.
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Correct Nitto rear rack size?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi Gunner,

I suggest going with the 33R as I'm convinced the 32R was built with 26" 
wheels in mind. I've tried the 32R on the following bikes:

   - 51cm Appaloosa (650b) - Needed to run on low-mid braze on. Could be 
   run on the dropout braze-on but contacts top of rear fender.
   - 47cm MIT Homer (650b) - Just clears with the fender and 42mm tires
   - 46cm Clem L - Perfect 
   - Small Gus Boots Wilsen (650b) - Not even close

I ended up getting the 33R - currently on the Hillsen - and keeping the 32R 
on the Clem.

--Ed C.

On Friday, July 23, 2021 at 12:36:29 PM UTC-7 gpgun...@aol.com wrote:

> Hello All
>
> I would greatly appreciate it if anyone can tell me the correct Nitto rear 
> rack size (32R/33R) for a Toyo built 56cm H/Hilsen with 650B wheels. 
> Initially , I was thinking large (33R) but now I am just not sure. The 
> older Toyo built Hilsen frame geometry has me questioning the optimal size. 
> Again, much appreciated.
>
> Cheers
>
> Gunner
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 170mm 110BCD crank arms

[Johnny Alien]

I meanmaybe I might want some more to have on hand. Hit me up! Thanks!

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 10:09:49 PM UTC-4 Frank Brose wrote:

> So are you all set now?
> If not I have some Sugino 170's if you're still looking.
> Frank
>
> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:16:56 PM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> I picked up a set of those as well to check out based on your review. I 
>> have another frame that I am going to be building up soon and it will be a 
>> perfect test bed.
>>
>> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:14:45 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Did you find the Origin8 cranks Johnny ?  They are listed as in stock @ 
>>> both Ebay(retailer Bikewagon) and Amazon, if you had not. 
>>> I would not have brought this crank to light unless I knew it was 
>>> available !!! 
>>>  
>>> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 12:09:53 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 As closure, I realized that while 170 was not available, the New Albion 
 cranks came in the mid size of 172.5 and those were available everywhere.  
 But I still am going to complain about the waning supplies of bike parts.

 On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Thanks Garth! I will check to see if any place has the Origin8 in 
> stock in the size/color I am looking for.
>
> CoalTrain, I did check there before posting here. They have stuff in 
> stock but not in the size/color combination I am looking for.
>
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 10:50:08 AM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>
>> Have you checked https://www.modernbike.com/s?search=new+Albion+crank 
>> ? They usually have New Albion. and Sugino in stock. 
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 8:56:24 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> This whole supply problem with bike parts thing is starting to 
>>> bother me. :)
>>>
>>> I picked up the Charlie Gallop sample frame and plan to make it a 
>>> 1X11 setup.  I am going to pick up a wolf tooth chainring (this is 
>>> pretty 
>>> easy to find) but need some crank arms to go with it. My preferred size 
>>> is 
>>> 170 and preferred color is silver. The combination is impossible to 
>>> find in 
>>> anything affordable. So I am looking for a Sugino xd, New Albion (riv 
>>> calls 
>>> this the clipper) or Silver crank arm set. If you need to unload it 
>>> with 
>>> rings I am ok with that. Silver, 170mm, 110 bcd, square taper in good 
>>> shape.  Anyone have anything like that?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 170mm 110BCD crank arms

[Frank Brose]

So are you all set now?
If not I have some Sugino 170's if you're still looking.
Frank

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:16:56 PM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I picked up a set of those as well to check out based on your review. I 
> have another frame that I am going to be building up soon and it will be a 
> perfect test bed.
>
> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:14:45 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> Did you find the Origin8 cranks Johnny ?  They are listed as in stock @ 
>> both Ebay(retailer Bikewagon) and Amazon, if you had not. 
>> I would not have brought this crank to light unless I knew it was 
>> available !!! 
>>  
>> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 12:09:53 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> As closure, I realized that while 170 was not available, the New Albion 
>>> cranks came in the mid size of 172.5 and those were available everywhere.  
>>> But I still am going to complain about the waning supplies of bike parts.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 Thanks Garth! I will check to see if any place has the Origin8 in stock 
 in the size/color I am looking for.

 CoalTrain, I did check there before posting here. They have stuff in 
 stock but not in the size/color combination I am looking for.

 On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 10:50:08 AM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:

> Have you checked https://www.modernbike.com/s?search=new+Albion+crank 
> ? They usually have New Albion. and Sugino in stock. 
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 8:56:24 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> This whole supply problem with bike parts thing is starting to bother 
>> me. :)
>>
>> I picked up the Charlie Gallop sample frame and plan to make it a 
>> 1X11 setup.  I am going to pick up a wolf tooth chainring (this is 
>> pretty 
>> easy to find) but need some crank arms to go with it. My preferred size 
>> is 
>> 170 and preferred color is silver. The combination is impossible to find 
>> in 
>> anything affordable. So I am looking for a Sugino xd, New Albion (riv 
>> calls 
>> this the clipper) or Silver crank arm set. If you need to unload it with 
>> rings I am ok with that. Silver, 170mm, 110 bcd, square taper in good 
>> shape.  Anyone have anything like that?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

aeroprof

The 2.5 lb weight difference (Fuji vs Sam) is worth 0.2 mph (1lb =12 mph) 
and would correct the LIGHTER Fuji time by subtracting 0.2mph to compare to 
the Sam, or 
Fuji corrected = 11.4 mph Sam = 11.2 mph

The 0.2mph seems insignificant, probably within the statistical variation 
of 5 trials

It would seem the Sam's riding position is not a large negative effect.  
 Perhaps the Sam is not as upright as the Soma

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 7:49:37 PM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:

> Road bike: 1982 Team Fuji with all 2018 equipment (3x9-spd Sora w/105 
> brakes, 622x28 tires, drops)
> Riv bike: 2015 Sam Hillborn set up per factory (3x9-spd Suguino/Shimano 
> w/Tektro rim brakes, 622x42 tires, Albatross)
> Both bikes had Sigma BC.12.12 computers which were calibrated.
>
> The road bike averaged 11.6 mph on 5 trials and the Sam averaged 11.2 mph 
> on 5 trials.
>
> To me, the big differences seemed to be in the gearing and rider 
> position.  The Fuji has a 50 tooth big chainring, while my Sam has a 46 
> tooth.
> Weight seemed at best a secondary effect.  The Fuji is 28 lb while the Sam 
> is 30.5 lb., but I’m 210 lb.
> For another comparison, my 31.5 pound Soma Saga Disc heavy touring bike 
> averaged just less than 11.1 mph on the same 5 trials.  It’s big chainring 
> has 44 teeth.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[A. Douglas M.]

Aeroperf,

We’re you exerting the same effort each time? I find myself not wanting to 
go fast on my albatross bikes. I think that plays a big part in it. I can 
match speeds on my 29+ but it’s not as fun and it’s not the point of the 
bike. So unless I was purposely trying to match speeds, I never would.

Best,

Aaron

P.s. Nice Fuji.

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 5:49:37 PM UTC-6 aeroperf wrote:

> Road bike: 1982 Team Fuji with all 2018 equipment (3x9-spd Sora w/105 
> brakes, 622x28 tires, drops)
> Riv bike: 2015 Sam Hillborn set up per factory (3x9-spd Suguino/Shimano 
> w/Tektro rim brakes, 622x42 tires, Albatross)
> Both bikes had Sigma BC.12.12 computers which were calibrated.
>
> The road bike averaged 11.6 mph on 5 trials and the Sam averaged 11.2 mph 
> on 5 trials.
>
> To me, the big differences seemed to be in the gearing and rider 
> position.  The Fuji has a 50 tooth big chainring, while my Sam has a 46 
> tooth.
> Weight seemed at best a secondary effect.  The Fuji is 28 lb while the Sam 
> is 30.5 lb., but I’m 210 lb.
> For another comparison, my 31.5 pound Soma Saga Disc heavy touring bike 
> averaged just less than 11.1 mph on the same 5 trials.  It’s big chainring 
> has 44 teeth.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[A. Douglas M.]

Between my drop bar Bianchi Virata on 650b38 (parimotia) and my Bianchi 
Volpe with albatross bars and a porteur rack and bag, the difference was 
notable. The Volpe was comfortable and a blast around town. When I tried to 
go on long rides with it, it seemed to fight me after 40 miles or so.

The Virata was fast and smooth and only my posterior hurt. But the drop 
bars weren’t as comfortable around town. Worse visibility too. 

I think the biggest difference is just position and wind resistance.

I do find it easy to go faster riding fixed gear, at least on the flats. 
The only time I could ride with the weekly A group was fixed.

Best,

Aaron

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 4:34:26 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I meant to add qualifications: flat terrain, paved surfaces, negligible 
> wind -- the huge, almost 30" tall tires, and 80 mm fenders on the Matthews 
> 1:1 do indeed seem to catch the wind more than the stripped, 24 3/4", 28 mm 
> wheeled gofast.
>
> On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:31 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I've not made any rigorous measurements, but casual measurements that 
>> don't isolate all non-riding time pauses, as stoplights, stops to adjust a 
>> shoe or consult a phone, or weed out all the pre-ride shuffling and 
>> preparation after I set Cycle meeter in motion, but don't include any very 
>> large pauses like 20 minutes in a store, seem to back up my seat-of-pants 
>> impression that ss is not itself a cause of large speed differences.
>>
>> I've recently ridden my 1999 Joe Starck light (18 lb) gofast 76" gear 
>> fixie shod with ineffably nice Elk Pass tires and yes, it does indeed seem 
>> particularly fast, faster than my 2020 Matthews 2:1 build along same lines 
>> but ~8 lb heavier, Naches Pass Regular instead of EP ELs, and with AM hub 
>> epicyclic and SON 20R dynohub powering Edeluxe1 and 2 small tail lights. It 
>> *feels* faster, as in ease of maintaining a cadence in a given gear in 
>> given terrain.
>>
>> *BUT!* Riding my 2015 Matthews 1:1 "road bike for dirt" with 2X10 
>> drivetrain and 700C X 61 mm Big One extra lights: nope, this bike *feels* 
>> just 
>> as fast as the 1999 Joe, and such times I've recorded on Cyclemeter 
>> indicate that it's not slower in average speed. 
>>
>> This proves nothing at all, but it might indicate that there are causes 
>> of speed differentials amongst which the slightly lower friction of a ss 
>> drivetrain simply disappears.
>>
>> Now, as to *handling,* there's not question which is "better."
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 8:28 AM Joel Levin  wrote:
>>
>>> I'd venture that the geared vs. singlespeed difference is playing a 
>>> major role.
>>>
>>> I'm always much faster on singlespeeds when the route involves climbing. 
>>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[Patrick Moore]

I meant to add qualifications: flat terrain, paved surfaces, negligible
wind -- the huge, almost 30" tall tires, and 80 mm fenders on the Matthews
1:1 do indeed seem to catch the wind more than the stripped, 24 3/4", 28 mm
wheeled gofast.

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:31 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I've not made any rigorous measurements, but casual measurements that
> don't isolate all non-riding time pauses, as stoplights, stops to adjust a
> shoe or consult a phone, or weed out all the pre-ride shuffling and
> preparation after I set Cycle meeter in motion, but don't include any very
> large pauses like 20 minutes in a store, seem to back up my seat-of-pants
> impression that ss is not itself a cause of large speed differences.
>
> I've recently ridden my 1999 Joe Starck light (18 lb) gofast 76" gear
> fixie shod with ineffably nice Elk Pass tires and yes, it does indeed seem
> particularly fast, faster than my 2020 Matthews 2:1 build along same lines
> but ~8 lb heavier, Naches Pass Regular instead of EP ELs, and with AM hub
> epicyclic and SON 20R dynohub powering Edeluxe1 and 2 small tail lights. It
> *feels* faster, as in ease of maintaining a cadence in a given gear in
> given terrain.
>
> *BUT!* Riding my 2015 Matthews 1:1 "road bike for dirt" with 2X10
> drivetrain and 700C X 61 mm Big One extra lights: nope, this bike *feels* just
> as fast as the 1999 Joe, and such times I've recorded on Cyclemeter
> indicate that it's not slower in average speed.
>
> This proves nothing at all, but it might indicate that there are causes of
> speed differentials amongst which the slightly lower friction of a ss
> drivetrain simply disappears.
>
> Now, as to *handling,* there's not question which is "better."
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 8:28 AM Joel Levin  wrote:
>
>> I'd venture that the geared vs. singlespeed difference is playing a major
>> role.
>>
>> I'm always much faster on singlespeeds when the route involves climbing.
>>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[Patrick Moore]

I've not made any rigorous measurements, but casual measurements that don't
isolate all non-riding time pauses, as stoplights, stops to adjust a shoe
or consult a phone, or weed out all the pre-ride shuffling and preparation
after I set Cycle meeter in motion, but don't include any very large pauses
like 20 minutes in a store, seem to back up my seat-of-pants impression
that ss is not itself a cause of large speed differences.

I've recently ridden my 1999 Joe Starck light (18 lb) gofast 76" gear fixie
shod with ineffably nice Elk Pass tires and yes, it does indeed seem
particularly fast, faster than my 2020 Matthews 2:1 build along same lines
but ~8 lb heavier, Naches Pass Regular instead of EP ELs, and with AM hub
epicyclic and SON 20R dynohub powering Edeluxe1 and 2 small tail lights. It
*feels* faster, as in ease of maintaining a cadence in a given gear in
given terrain.

*BUT!* Riding my 2015 Matthews 1:1 "road bike for dirt" with 2X10
drivetrain and 700C X 61 mm Big One extra lights: nope, this bike *feels* just
as fast as the 1999 Joe, and such times I've recorded on Cyclemeter
indicate that it's not slower in average speed.

This proves nothing at all, but it might indicate that there are causes of
speed differentials amongst which the slightly lower friction of a ss
drivetrain simply disappears.

Now, as to *handling,* there's not question which is "better."



On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 8:28 AM Joel Levin  wrote:

> I'd venture that the geared vs. singlespeed difference is playing a major
> role.
>
> I'm always much faster on singlespeeds when the route involves climbing.
>

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Re: [RBW] Creaky Stem Issue

[Jon Dukeman]

Chase
Torque on the NITTO stem clamp/ handlebar is 14-16 Nm or
120-140 inch lb. ( per NITTO specs.)
I recommend cleaning mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol Before
assembling and torqueing.
I've never heard a creak doing it this method.
Jon

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021, 1:49 PM Chase Granoff  wrote:

> I am trying to solve what I believe is either a creaky stem and/or
> handlebar issue.
>
> I've got a couple of questions... how many Nm are you suppose to torque
> both the handlebar clamp and the stem on a Nitto Tallux stem?
>
> And have any of you had positive experiences using something like the Park
> Tool Supergrip Carbon and Alloy Assembly Compound on the contact points?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chase
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Creaky Stem Issue

[Ben Mihovk]

Hey Chase!
I had a creak on my Atlantis when I first got it last fall and I was super 
bummed that I couldn't seem to fix it with the amount of tension (or lack 
thereof) on the nut on the stem clamp thing. It was suggested I look at a 
thread that Leah started a long time ago about something similar and I was 
able to fix my creak by lightly lubing the contact point between handlebar 
and stem. I loosened the nut and slid the handle bar out used a couple 
drops of Boeshield T9. Put it back together and the creak almost vanished 
completely immediately. I let it sit overnight and by the time I rode to 
work the next morning, the creak vanished and hasn't come back since.

I have no experience with the compound you're looking at, but if it's a 
lubricant, I'm guessing it'd be fine.

Good luck!
Ben 
On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:49:43 PM UTC-5 chase@gmail.com wrote:

> I am trying to solve what I believe is either a creaky stem and/or 
> handlebar issue.
>
> I've got a couple of questions... how many Nm are you suppose to torque 
> both the handlebar clamp and the stem on a Nitto Tallux stem?
>
> And have any of you had positive experiences using something like the Park 
> Tool Supergrip Carbon and Alloy Assembly Compound on the contact points?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chase
>
>

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[RBW] Creaky Stem Issue

[Chase Granoff]

I am trying to solve what I believe is either a creaky stem and/or 
handlebar issue.

I've got a couple of questions... how many Nm are you suppose to torque 
both the handlebar clamp and the stem on a Nitto Tallux stem?

And have any of you had positive experiences using something like the Park 
Tool Supergrip Carbon and Alloy Assembly Compound on the contact points?

Thanks!

Chase

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 170mm 110BCD crank arms

[Johnny Alien]

I picked up a set of those as well to check out based on your review. I 
have another frame that I am going to be building up soon and it will be a 
perfect test bed.

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 2:14:45 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Did you find the Origin8 cranks Johnny ?  They are listed as in stock @ 
> both Ebay(retailer Bikewagon) and Amazon, if you had not. 
> I would not have brought this crank to light unless I knew it was 
> available !!! 
>  
> On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 12:09:53 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> As closure, I realized that while 170 was not available, the New Albion 
>> cranks came in the mid size of 172.5 and those were available everywhere.  
>> But I still am going to complain about the waning supplies of bike parts.
>>
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Garth! I will check to see if any place has the Origin8 in stock 
>>> in the size/color I am looking for.
>>>
>>> CoalTrain, I did check there before posting here. They have stuff in 
>>> stock but not in the size/color combination I am looking for.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 10:50:08 AM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>>>
 Have you checked https://www.modernbike.com/s?search=new+Albion+crank 
 ? They usually have New Albion. and Sugino in stock. 
 On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 8:56:24 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:

> This whole supply problem with bike parts thing is starting to bother 
> me. :)
>
> I picked up the Charlie Gallop sample frame and plan to make it a 1X11 
> setup.  I am going to pick up a wolf tooth chainring (this is pretty easy 
> to find) but need some crank arms to go with it. My preferred size is 170 
> and preferred color is silver. The combination is impossible to find in 
> anything affordable. So I am looking for a Sugino xd, New Albion (riv 
> calls 
> this the clipper) or Silver crank arm set. If you need to unload it with 
> rings I am ok with that. Silver, 170mm, 110 bcd, square taper in good 
> shape.  Anyone have anything like that?
>


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Re: [RBW] Billie Bars 58cm Nitto Al

[EGNolan]

More Billie's SOLD.

Thanks.

On Saturday, July 24, 2021 at 5:50:58 PM UTC-4 EGNolan wrote:

> I too have a pair of Billie Bars FS. I used them for a short bit, but 
> prefer the shape of Losco/Bosco bars for my riding.
> I'll sell for the same $75 + shipping. 
>
> I also have a pair of 46.0 wide Noodles if anyone is interested. Used VERY 
> briefly on a Roadini before switchin' to upright h'bars.
>
> Best,
> Eric Nolan
>
> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 7:44:30 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Bars have been sold!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2021, at 1:17 PM, Matthew Williams  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I don't think so. The OD appears consistent everywhere except the section 
>> at the stem/center.
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2021, at 1:04 PM, Collin A  wrote:
>>
>> Are these ones that have the slightly undersized OD on the grip section?
>>
>> Collin in Sacramento
>>
>> On Monday, July 19, 2021 at 11:48:30 AM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> 58cm aluminum Nitto Billie Bars.
>>> In excellent condition.
>>> $75, plus shipping in the US of A.
>>> Local pickup: San Francisco east bay area.
>>>
>>> I bought them from Kai, but they're not quite right for me, so back on 
>>> sale they go!
>>>
>>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/12723578-6253-422d-8a06-6f77d1ede9b6n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 170mm 110BCD crank arms

[Garth]

Did you find the Origin8 cranks Johnny ?  They are listed as in stock @ 
both Ebay(retailer Bikewagon) and Amazon, if you had not. 
I would not have brought this crank to light unless I knew it was available 
!!! 
 
On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 12:09:53 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> As closure, I realized that while 170 was not available, the New Albion 
> cranks came in the mid size of 172.5 and those were available everywhere.  
> But I still am going to complain about the waning supplies of bike parts.
>
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> Thanks Garth! I will check to see if any place has the Origin8 in stock 
>> in the size/color I am looking for.
>>
>> CoalTrain, I did check there before posting here. They have stuff in 
>> stock but not in the size/color combination I am looking for.
>>
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 10:50:08 AM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>>
>>> Have you checked https://www.modernbike.com/s?search=new+Albion+crank ? 
>>> They usually have New Albion. and Sugino in stock. 
>>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 8:56:24 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 This whole supply problem with bike parts thing is starting to bother 
 me. :)

 I picked up the Charlie Gallop sample frame and plan to make it a 1X11 
 setup.  I am going to pick up a wolf tooth chainring (this is pretty easy 
 to find) but need some crank arms to go with it. My preferred size is 170 
 and preferred color is silver. The combination is impossible to find in 
 anything affordable. So I am looking for a Sugino xd, New Albion (riv 
 calls 
 this the clipper) or Silver crank arm set. If you need to unload it with 
 rings I am ok with that. Silver, 170mm, 110 bcd, square taper in good 
 shape.  Anyone have anything like that?

>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTT 53cm Frank Jones Sr

[A. Douglas M.]

Swapped the bars for 45mm Nitto B115s and a VO stem. Changed out the 
colored cable housing to Ultegra gray housing. Just ordered some maroon 
tape and twine from Rivendell (along with Tosco bars for my fillet brazed 
MTB).

I’ll get it taped up and take some better photos. 

Price will be $2300 shipped. 

Thanks!
On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 9:37:56 PM UTC-6 A. Douglas M. wrote:

> [image: FB25B041-2B7D-4704-AD6D-B1A0BE7816CE.jpeg]
> Ok, it’s up on the chopping block. Still interested in trades but here is 
> the build:
>
> 53cm frame in very good condition (one small scratch on NDS of top tube)
> Alex Meade 50cm fillet brazed stem with Salsa Cowchippers (unwrapped while 
> I got fit down)
> Tektro TRP levers
> FSA headset
> Tektro 556 brakes
> Gravelking 35 SS on velocity A23 rims laced to formula hubs (both can be 
> set up tubeless but are not currently)
> Phil Wood bottom bracket 110
> Sugino XD crank with 40t wolf tooth chainring and 32t willow chainring
> Surly 18t fixed cog and lock ring
> White industries 16t freewheel
> KMC chain
> Nitto S85 seatpost
> Vintage Brooks professional 
> No cages or pedals included
>
> Between the fillet brazed BB and custom HT lugs it’s a beautiful frame and 
> I’m disappointed it doesn’t fit. 
>
> $2400 and I’ll take care of shipping. All parts have very low mileage 
> (like maybe 100 miles) except the saddle and wheels. I think the wheelset 
> has ~300 miles. 
>
> I could swap the bars and stem to a VO/Nitto setup and reduce the cost by 
> $100.
>
> Thanks! Feel free to reach out with any questions. 
>
> Best,
>
> Aaron in El Paso 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 170mm 110BCD crank arms

[Johnny Alien]

As closure, I realized that while 170 was not available, the New Albion 
cranks came in the mid size of 172.5 and those were available everywhere.  
But I still am going to complain about the waning supplies of bike parts.

On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Thanks Garth! I will check to see if any place has the Origin8 in stock in 
> the size/color I am looking for.
>
> CoalTrain, I did check there before posting here. They have stuff in stock 
> but not in the size/color combination I am looking for.
>
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 10:50:08 AM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>
>> Have you checked https://www.modernbike.com/s?search=new+Albion+crank ? 
>> They usually have New Albion. and Sugino in stock. 
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 8:56:24 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> This whole supply problem with bike parts thing is starting to bother 
>>> me. :)
>>>
>>> I picked up the Charlie Gallop sample frame and plan to make it a 1X11 
>>> setup.  I am going to pick up a wolf tooth chainring (this is pretty easy 
>>> to find) but need some crank arms to go with it. My preferred size is 170 
>>> and preferred color is silver. The combination is impossible to find in 
>>> anything affordable. So I am looking for a Sugino xd, New Albion (riv calls 
>>> this the clipper) or Silver crank arm set. If you need to unload it with 
>>> rings I am ok with that. Silver, 170mm, 110 bcd, square taper in good 
>>> shape.  Anyone have anything like that?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Bullmoose, Fillet Brazed

[Amit Singh]

beautifully shot 

On Sunday, July 18, 2021 at 7:26:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel Jackson wrote:

> $170 shipped. 
> New condition. Such a beauty.
> Photo attached.
>
> Thanks!
> Daniel
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2021 Appaloosa thread

[Andrew Stevens]

Eastside Pedal Pushers in Austin, TX still has a 57 in orange

Cheers
Andrew

On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 5:30:32 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looks like Analog has a few Appaloosa frames for sale and on sale for 
> $1,550
>
> https://analogcycles.com/secret-summer-sale-2021/
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yirHUduDp0U4VVpI8LT0BRRCbBVL4bjd0ABFmc6tIcY/edit#gid=0
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2021-07-25 at 6.27.35 PM.png]
>
> On Friday, July 23, 2021 at 7:40:16 AM UTC-4 Bones wrote:
>
>> Adam, I would go with a 2x9 or 2x10, silver wide/low with the chain 
>> guard. Excellent value. Appaloosas are great for hauling lots of stuff, and 
>> if you take it on trails, I doubt you will need that big ring. Every time 
>> I've set up a triple on mine, it's never lasted long because I never need 
>> that much gearing, and it's pretty flat around me. I agree also with the 
>> silver shifters. I've used the dura ace bar ends that do index/friction, 
>> but if you don't need that option, the silver shifters are the smoothest 
>> thing around. Bar ends or maybe thumbies if you've got lots of real estate 
>> on the bars (Billies, Choco's, etc.). Good luck!
>>
>> Bones
>>
>> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 12:18:07 PM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Mark. I am goign to play around with this a bit. My concern with 
>>> mounting along seat tube is that the gap between the seat stay is pretty 
>>> wide. While the peg will support the pump near the crank, there won't be 
>>> any support on seat collar end. Will try it out and report the findings. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 5:59:12 AM UTC-7 esoter...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>

 Kushan,

 Zefal makes plastic pump pegs that you can secure around any tube on 
 your bike. I'm using one on my Atlantis to hold a Zefal pump and it works 
 great (mine's an FPX , not an HPX, but they fit the pegs just the same). 
 I've got an extra one if you'd like, let's say $10 shipped. PM me if 
 you're 
 interested. Cheers,

 ~Mark
 Raleigh, NC



 On Jul 21, 2021, at 07:45, Eric Marth  wrote:

 Rad bike, Kushan, and congrats! 


 I don't have any experience hacking an HPX4 but maybe you could add 
 some felt washers to the piston between the handle and the main frame body 
 to effectively add to the overall length of the pump when compressed. 

 https://www.mcmaster.com/felt-washers/

 On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 1:43:24 AM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:

> P.S. It turns out that my frame pump, Zefal HPX4, is a tad too short 
> for 60 cm Appa (although it fits fine on 61 Roadini). To my knowledge, 
> HPX4 
> is the largest size pump Zefal makes. If anyone has recommendations on 
> larger frame pump (or hacks on how to make HPX4 work), please let me 
> know. 
> It's a bummer because I just got this one a few weeks ago.
>
> On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 10:41:24 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:
>
>> After a few weeks of obsessively checking, finally got a note from 
>> Will that it's ready. Picked up my 60 cm Appaloosa arrived today. I took 
>> it 
>> for a quick 10 mile spin on local paved trail and ride quality has 
>> exceeded 
>> expectations. It is joyfully upright (Albatross bars), planted, and 
>> climbs 
>> well. It makes me want to just keep pedaling and forget about things 
>> like 
>> speed, heart rate, and strava. 
>>
>> Here are some pictures 
>> 
>> On Saturday, July 3, 2021 at 5:46:50 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all for posting pictures of your Appaloosa builds. It has 
>>> inspired me to hang on to mine and give it more love. Question for 
>>> those of 
>>> you running wider tires (2.25) How much mud clearance does it leave 
>>> when 
>>> riding a tire of that size. I am thinking about upgrading from 2.0 WTB 
>>> Venture tires to 2.25 Thunder Burts. Just wondering how well the tire 
>>> will 
>>> fit on Cliffhanger rims. Would appreciate any insight on clearances. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 1, 2021 at 10:54:26 AM UTC-4 bp wrote:
>>>
 Brendon - Nitto Kite bars. Ordered from Blue Lug many years ago. 
 Keep swapping out, keep coming back time and again. Close matches are 
 Soma 
 Osprey or Riv Wavie. Beartraps are OK. Comfortable. Aggressive grip on 
 shoes. And my shins/calves.

 Eric - that's out my front door in central Iowa. 

 On Thursday, July 1, 2021 at 6:22:00 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Brent -- That's a nice looking bike there! The friscalating 
> dusklight is complimentary. Where, geographically, are you riding? 
>
> On Thursday, July 1, 2021 at 2:58:24 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

[RBW] Re: Help me optimize my ride

[Dorothy C]

Same here Joe - I have scraped the inside of my knee on the edge of it a 
couple of times, when it hasn’t had the handgrip and bag in place. Might be 
more of an issue when you set your bike up with a lot of seatpost showing 
as I do on my 26in wheel Appaloosa 

On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 5:04:29 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Btw this is super handy but check how you get on your bike before buying. 
> I still swing my increasingly creaky old leg over the saddle and I kicked 
> that thing *every time 臘*
>
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 4:48:45 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Check the next photo on the Riv page. Those doohickeys can be spaced 
>> either inside or outside of the straps so the saddlebag doesn't slide 
>> around on that bar. You grab it in the middle there to carry the bag after 
>> you pop the QR open. 
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 4:34:04 PM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:
>>
>>> I have a Nitto Saddlebar Grip P50, and it seems to work very well, but I 
>>> see there is an adjustment I have not tweaked. What is the optimal value of 
>>> x in the pic below? I fear I am losing out on a more supple ride, and or 
>>> higher cruising speed. Seriously though, at what distance or range of 
>>> distances apart should these two pieces be? Alternatively, what do they do?
>>>
>>> Presently they are slightly further apart than depicted.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/nitto-saddlebag-grip-quick-release-r50-20109?variant=23336752257
>>>
>>> [image: image.png]
>>>
>>> EricF
>>> Vancouver BC
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Yet another round of name that sound

[David Wadstrup]

Hello all,

While I've been reading all of these suggestions as they came through, it's 
not until now that I'm replying.  Sorry.  I am dumbfounded by all the the 
great ideas and thought people have put into helping me with my problem -- 
THANK YOU!  So... just yesterday afternoon I removed and reinstalled the 
cassette.  I also added a small touch of grease to the splines, as 
suggested.  I wasn't able to take it out do to a day full of rain, but I 
hope to tomorrow.  I'll report back on my findings.  

I ended up just making the one "adjustment" so I would be able to determine 
if it, and not any other adjustments, was the real solution.  I fit doesn't 
work, I'll move onto the BB.

To answer a few of the questions here.  all components including chain 
are in great, lightly used, condition.  This is the bike that sees the 
least use, even more so after a year of the pandemic, and I would imagine 
that everything has less than 1,000 miles on it.  I don't keep track of my 
mileage, and am a really bad estimator of it, so it could be even quite a 
bit less than this.  Definitely not more.  

I did remove and reinsert the seat post, and loosen and re-tighten the 
saddle bolt.  This has traditionally been the number one source of 
mysterious noises for me, but my fiddling had no effect this time.  Which I 
kind of suspected, given that the noises also occur when I'm out of the 
saddle.

Regarding the construction of the cassette... the 3 largest cogs are indeed 
on a "sub cluster assembly," which I found to be quite interesting given 
that it is only these three that make this noise.  Seems like the rivets or 
just the construction of this part as a whole, could be the culprit, as 
suggested.  Maybe my locking was a little on the loose side, and maybe 
there was some play between this cluster and the rest of the cogs?  I sure 
hope so!

Anyways, that you all for your time and the thoughtful replies -- they mean 
a lot!

I have another, unrelated question that I'll ask in a separate post.  See 
you there, I hope!

On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 8:32:48 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> Have you tried taking off the cassette and lightly greasing the splines 
> before reassembling? I used to get a similar sound on my Campy 
> freehub-equipped bikes, and this always worked.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Jul 22, 2021, at 2:49 PM, RichS  wrote:
>
> Hello David,
>
> Lots of helpful solutions provided by the group so I'm sure you'll 
> discover the problem soon. In addition to the cassette noise do you notice 
> a creaky sound coming from your stem? Perhaps the sounds are coming from 
> multiple locations? 
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 10:28:17 AM UTC-4 bdcamp...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would try the following (assumning you have not already):
>>
>> 1. Swap the bb.
>> 2. Light bit of grease of the tapers when installing the cranks
>> 3. Uninstall and re-install the cassette
>> 4. Check the chain for wear and make sure the master link is proerly 
>> secured.
>> 5. Check the front derailer adujustment to make sure the cage it not 
>> hitting the chain or possibly somethig else
>> 6. If you re wearing cleated shoes make sure the cleats are tight. Lower 
>> gearrs means lower pressure/contact with the pedals.
>> 7.  Make sure the chainring bolts are tight.
>> 8. IS the spacer (if there is one for 11 speed ) the correct width?
>>
>> Good luck and hope you solve it quickly!
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 11:47:06 AM UTC-4 brettjc...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> This is going to sound crazy, but is it the saddle, seatpost, or their 
>>> interface? That's happened to me more than once, and I've chased sounds 
>>> that I'm sure are bottom bracket, crank, or cassette related only to 
>>> discover that in certain gears or at certain effort levels, my saddle is 
>>> clicking. (In fact, this is happening with a Berthoud on my NFE at the 
>>> moment. It only clicks when I shift my weight and ride upright at low 
>>> cadence). 
>>>
>>> Just a thought...
>>> Brett in Portland
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 5:35:26 AM UTC-7 David Wadstrup wrote:
>>>
 We've played this game before, and I'm reluctant to begin another 
 round.  But after a fruitless deep dive into a general internet search 
 trying to identify the source of my sound, I thought bringing up my issue 
 here might be of help.  Here goes

 I am the proud owner of a beautiful, creamsicle colored Roadeo that I 
 purchased from a fellow list member here a couple of years ago.  I 
 purchased only the frameset, and built up it up myself.  A short while ago 
 I began to notice a creaking, clicking, cracking-type sound when climbing 
 steep-ish hills.  I loosened and re-tightened just about everything(except 
 the bottom bracket) in an attempt to fix whatever the source of the sound 
 might be.  No luck.