[RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Craig Montgomery]

If you want to shim with class, head over to ACE and get a package of brass 
shimstock. The package has various thicknesses starting with thinnest to 
thickest. Start with thinnest :^) The neat thing about it is that you can 
wrap the post (maybe half way or a bit more), slide it in and clamp it down 
with excess sticking out. Then it is super easy to trim it with a 
delicately used Exacto or utility knife. Really a piece of cake once you 
get the stuff. 

Craig "Original Mickey Mouse Club member" in Tucson

On Thursday, September 9, 2021 at 12:40:07 PM UTC-7 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> Anybody else have issues with their seat post slipping on their Clem H or 
> any other Rivs?  This is driving me crazy.  I am infatuated with this bike. 
>  Favorite ride of all time.  I have a perfect 30 mile SF-Marin Headlands-SF 
> loop that keeps me sane.What is driving me insane however is that my 
> seat post slips down about 1-1.5 inches every time I ride this ride, which 
> involves quite a lot of fire trail.  I have cleaned the inside of the seat 
> tube, I have applied friction grease, I changed the seat bolt and greased 
> and regressed it.  I have heard that maybe a Coke can might work as a shim, 
> but I'd rather resolve the issue without hodging and podging.  Any 
> thoughts?  Advice?  Commiseration?  Thanks all.  I've ridden on a Kalloy 
> and a Thomson seat post, and it doesn't matter which seat post I use, there 
> is slippage.  
> Alex
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem Smith Jr H

[Andrew Huston]

Sent you a PM

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:24:23 PM UTC-4 Davey Two Shoes wrote:

> Hi All,
> I've been away for a while but have returned to sell my Clem Smith Jr size 
> 52 (whichever way the medium size during the Green run) It is the stock Riv 
> build and in pretty good condition. A scratch or two I guess. It comes with 
> the Willie Nelson sticker applied by the previous owner whom I bought this 
> bike from on this group. It will make you faster, or slower, whatever 
> you're going for! I have Albatross and Bullmoose flat bars I can send you 
> if you'd prefer them over the bars pictured. I will also include Schwable 
> G1 tires in addition to the stock tires mounted. Velo orange rack and 
> brooks saddle will be included too if you wish. I'll be keeping the pedals
>
> I will miss this bike but it deserves better than to collect dust on the 
> rack while I lust after a plasticky carbon gravel bike (hopefully this 
> fevered lunacy will break in a few years lol!) Take care of er' and ride 
> er' into the sunset...or ground, for me! This bike came from Austin, where 
> it learned to be weird - then lived in New York city where it learned to be 
> mean. Then it ate Pizza in New Jersey. These days it lives the good life 
> gettin' drunk on craft beer in Vermont. Where will you take it?
>
> Price:$1300
> Buyer pays shipping[image: clem 1.jpg][image: clem2.jpg]
> [image: clem.jpg]
>
> Apologies if this double posts. I just recovered this account after having 
> to create a new account yesterday.
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking derailer recs for a Hillborne build.

[David Person]

Sun XCD rear derailleur, if you can find one.  Look at MicroShift for front 
derailleurs.  Though, finding ones that fit a 28.6mm seat tube are getting 
harder to find.  Problem Solvers makes a adapter in 28.6mm, as to others, 
in silver.  That with a MicroShift R9 braze-on front derailleur would do 
the trick.  As with lots of things these days, finding bike stuff can be 
difficult.

Let me know if you decide to sell the XT RD M-771.

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 4:00:46 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> I like the IRD Alpina with IRD clamp - both all silver. The IRD clamp is 
> single position in relation to the braze-on derailleur whereas the Origin 8 
> allows the derailleur to be adjusted relative to the clamp. I prefer the 
> cleaner looks and simpler design of the IRD clamp. Just a bit more tweeking 
> needed to install. 
>
> [image: IMG_0111.jpg]
>
> Also all manner of old Campagnolo derailleurs (but not old enough to be 
> "vintage") - they can often be had new for less than a new Japanese or 
> Taiwanese. Just need to verify the seat tube size if they have integral 
> clamp. This brand new Athena 11 was $33 shipped - with integral 31.8 clamp
>
> [image: IMG_0687 (2).jpg].
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 5:29:36 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi all — I'm building up a Hillborne with a Sugino XD2 triple, Shimano 9s 
>> 12-36 cassette, 113mm bottom bracket. 
>>
>> I currently have Shimano XT front and rear derailers: FD-M771, RD-M771. I 
>> figure these will work fine. Only problem is... they're hideous. Okay, I 
>> can abide the rear. The front, though...ouch!
>>
>> I'm looking for recs for comparable mechs but in a silver. With a 
>> classic, innocuous look. Vintage is fine. Readily available is groovy. 
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> [image: IMG_6096.JPG]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking derailer recs for a Hillborne build.

[Joe Bernard]

Three good things about the XT front:
1. Low clamp so the kludgy plastic doesn't show on the drive-side. 
2. That kludgy plastic is light and doesn't dig into your paint, a thing 
recently discussed here. 
3. It matches the rear for much matchy-matchy! 

But if I haven't talked you into using it you can try searches for 9-speed 
Ultegra and 105 triples, lots of Rivs came with them. IRD and Microshift 
made clones, too. 

Joe Bernard
On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 2:29:36 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi all — I'm building up a Hillborne with a Sugino XD2 triple, Shimano 9s 
> 12-36 cassette, 113mm bottom bracket. 
>
> I currently have Shimano XT front and rear derailers: FD-M771, RD-M771. I 
> figure these will work fine. Only problem is... they're hideous. Okay, I 
> can abide the rear. The front, though...ouch!
>
> I'm looking for recs for comparable mechs but in a silver. With a classic, 
> innocuous look. Vintage is fine. Readily available is groovy. 
>
> Thanks! 
>
> [image: IMG_6096.JPG]
>

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[RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Ray]

Haha I was the one that bought Collin's Clem H from him (and eventually 
reamed out the seat tube like he mentioned), and before finding that 
solution I did in fact break the binder bolt off trying to super-tighten 
it. There was a lot of torque that it still slipped under before I 
eventually broke it.

-Ray

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 1:24:18 PM UTC-5 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> Nice.  I like that advice.  I was scared to tighten too much.  I'm not 
> scared anymore
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 10:06:05 AM UTC-7 Andrew Huston wrote:
>
>> My Clem H had the same issue. I called Riv and Grant told me to crank on 
>> the bolt until it doesn’t slip. He said the bolt or nut would break
>> Before I would damage anything. I cranked and it quit slipping. He also 
>> offered the knurling option. 
>>
>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 6:02:51 AM UTC-4 EricP wrote:
>>
>>> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the 
>>> nut? I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque 
>>> down on the frame to hold the post.
>>>
>>> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
>>> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
>>> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>>>
>>> Good luck.
>>>
>>> Eric Platt
>>> St. Paul, MN
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>>>
 With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in 
 the seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
 before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
 take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
 But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
 grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
 reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in 
 use.

 As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a 
 coke can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see 
 if that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it 
 can be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
 initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
 get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.

 Nick

>>>

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[RBW] Re: FT: 700x50 Soma Cazaderos for something wider

[Matthew P]

Hey Jeremy,
I just saw this now. No problem. I'll put them up to the group and see if I 
catch anything.
Wishing I didn't miss those Super Yummies!
Happy Schwalbeing.
-Matthew
San Diego

On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 12:55:45 PM UTC-7 Jeremy Till wrote:

> Hi Matthew, 
>
> Thanks for the offer, but I actually had already found another member to 
> whom I traded the Cazaderos for a pair of Schwalbes. The Ardents look like 
> great tires (especially love the tan sidewall) but I'm trying not to hoard 
> too much at the moment.   
>
> Best,
>
> Jeremy
>
> On Monday, September 6, 2021 at 3:54:34 PM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:
>
>> Hey Jeremy,
>>
>> Sorry for the delay. I hope I didn't lag too long.
>> I scored some 29x2.4" Maxxis Ardents, off David Banzer from Treetop Bags 
>> I believe. Had'em on his Clem, doing what you say, maxing out the tire 
>> clearance.
>> I was going to try them on my Atlantis but I already see they won't fit 
>> without shaving'em bald or something.
>> It'd make a lot more sense to trade with you. Wanna trade? Pic included. 
>> They're a little dirty but appear to be in darn good shape (as I received 
>> them).
>> If you (or anyone else) wants these but don't have the Cazaderos anymore, 
>> I'd be interested in other tires. Basically anything 48 mm wide and above, 
>> in 26", 27.5", or 29".
>>
>> -Matthew
>> Kinda wishing all wheels & tires were one size (27.5" or 26")
>> and my Atlantis could fit that size at 2.4" wide or maybe even 2.6"
>> in San Diego, CA
>>
>> [image: IMG_20210826_073736.jpg]
>>
>> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 10:51:17 AM UTC-7 Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>>> Probably a long shot, but up for trade is one used pair of Soma 
>>> Cazaderos in the 700x50 size with tan sidewalls (tubeless compatible). I 
>>> bought these used from a list member thinking they'd be good knobbies for 
>>> my erstwhile early Hunqapillar. Now that that bike is sold I'd like to 
>>> trade them for something that more fully utilizes my Clem's more generous 
>>> tire clearances, something in the 700x55-60mm/29x2.2-2.3" range with an XC 
>>> or gravel type tread pattern and tubeless compatibility. I'm somewhat 
>>> agnostic on suppleness vs. protective casing, especially with tubeless 
>>> tires.
>>>
>>> As far as I can tell the previous owner had these set up tubeless so 
>>> there is some sealant residue inside the tire and mild tread wear, more 
>>> noticeable on one tire than the other (I assume that was on the rear). I 
>>> only seated one tire on my rim to check out the sizing but never added 
>>> sealant, a tube, or rode them.
>>>
>>> If you have a pair of tires in as-new condition that you'd be willing to 
>>> trade I'd be happy to throw in some cash or other extras into the deal to 
>>> make it fair.  
>>>
>>> Picture here: https://flic.kr/p/2mdYjaw
>>>
>>> -Jeremy Till
>>> Sacramento, CA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: How To Skip to the Bottom / Latest Post of a Very Long Thread

[Alex K]

I had the same problem and now the answer is somewhere deep in the FS Bikes 
for Sale on Craigslist thread around July 29. 2021.  The answers I got were 
to:
1. Put the cursor on the text of the top message, and hit the END key. 
 Zooms right to the bottom.
2.  And for Mac keypads w/o an END key, "FN + right arrow" or "COMMAND + 
down arrow"

All I got.
Alex
On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 1:58:08 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> The only trick I have on my Android is to click on the thread and swipe up 
> fast to get it going. It'll stop in the middle to catch up, then I do it 
> again. If you click and just wait a minute it won't do that pause. It's all 
> annoying, that Craigslist/Ebay thread is so bad I rarely look at it. 
>
> Joe "not today" Bernard 
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 1:27:07 PM UTC-7 Paul in Dallas wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a trick to accomplish what's in the title of this thread 
>> while using a smart phone?
>>
>> Some threads are so long one's finger gets tired just scrolling and 
>> scrolling and scrolling and scrolling and scrolling ...
>> well,  you get the idea.
>>
>> Thank you. 
>>
>> Paul in Dallas
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: IRD 26.8 x 250mm Waaaaaaay back seatpost

[Eric Marth]

This seatpost has sold. 

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 2:22:22 PM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'll take it!
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 10:54:15 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I have a new, un-installed IRD seatpost. Purchased from Riv.
>>
>> Silver 26.8 x 250mm 
>>
>> $100 shipped CONUS, PayPal Friends and/or Family. 
>>
>> Info here.  
>> 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: How To Skip to the Bottom / Latest Post of a Very Long Thread

[Joe Bernard]

The only trick I have on my Android is to click on the thread and swipe up 
fast to get it going. It'll stop in the middle to catch up, then I do it 
again. If you click and just wait a minute it won't do that pause. It's all 
annoying, that Craigslist/Ebay thread is so bad I rarely look at it. 

Joe "not today" Bernard 

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 1:27:07 PM UTC-7 Paul in Dallas wrote:

> Does anyone have a trick to accomplish what's in the title of this thread 
> while using a smart phone?
>
> Some threads are so long one's finger gets tired just scrolling and 
> scrolling and scrolling and scrolling and scrolling ...
> well,  you get the idea.
>
> Thank you. 
>
> Paul in Dallas
>
>
> .
>

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[RBW] How To Skip to the Bottom / Latest Post of a Very Long Thread

[st nick]

Does anyone have a trick to accomplish what's in the title of this thread while 
using a smart phone?
Some threads are so long one's finger gets tired just scrolling and scrolling 
and scrolling and scrolling and scrolling ...well,  you get the idea.

Thank you. 
Paul in Dallas


.

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[RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Alex K]

Nice.  I like that advice.  I was scared to tighten too much.  I'm not 
scared anymore

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 10:06:05 AM UTC-7 Andrew Huston wrote:

> My Clem H had the same issue. I called Riv and Grant told me to crank on 
> the bolt until it doesn’t slip. He said the bolt or nut would break
> Before I would damage anything. I cranked and it quit slipping. He also 
> offered the knurling option. 
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 6:02:51 AM UTC-4 EricP wrote:
>
>> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the 
>> nut? I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque 
>> down on the frame to hold the post.
>>
>> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
>> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
>> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>>
>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>>
>>> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
>>> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
>>> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
>>> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
>>> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
>>> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
>>> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>>>
>>> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke 
>>> can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if 
>>> that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can 
>>> be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
>>> initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
>>> get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: IRD 26.8 x 250mm Waaaaaaay back seatpost

[Alex K]

I'll take it!

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 10:54:15 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have a new, un-installed IRD seatpost. Purchased from Riv.
>
> Silver 26.8 x 250mm 
>
> $100 shipped CONUS, PayPal Friends and/or Family. 
>
> Info here.  
> 
>

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[RBW] FS: IRD 26.8 x 250mm Waaaaaaay back seatpost

[Eric Marth]

I have a new, un-installed IRD seatpost. Purchased from Riv.

Silver 26.8 x 250mm 

$100 shipped CONUS, PayPal Friends and/or Family. 

Info here.  


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[RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Andrew Huston]

My Clem H had the same issue. I called Riv and Grant told me to crank on 
the bolt until it doesn’t slip. He said the bolt or nut would break
Before I would damage anything. I cranked and it quit slipping. He also 
offered the knurling option. 

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 6:02:51 AM UTC-4 EricP wrote:

> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the nut? 
> I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque down 
> on the frame to hold the post.
>
> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
>> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
>> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
>> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
>> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
>> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
>> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>>
>> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke 
>> can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if 
>> that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can 
>> be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
>> initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
>> get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Collin A]

Another anecdotal point...I tried the S65 in the hopes it would solve the 
slipping problem but it did not. The knurling on the el-cheapo kalloy that 
came with the Clem did, however. 

Collin, "It rained" in Sacramento

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 8:55:57 AM UTC-7 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> So much good info.  Glad I am not alone here.  Gonna reclean the seat tube 
> and apply the Blue Friction Grease again.  Guessing it won't work, so next 
> will be the Coke can method.  Also gonna switch to a Crystal Fellow seat 
> post.
>
>  Thanks again for all the help.
> Alex
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 7:30:20 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> If you want max torque to clamp the seatpost use a quick release type 
>> binder bolt. The one Riv sells is the Sunlite stainless steel version, 
>> 6x55mm, not to be confused with the other Sunlite version which just says 
>> steel and comes with steel spacers. 
>>
>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 9:33:42 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve found that some brands are slightly (not “nominally;” it’s a tiny 
>>> but real difference) bigger than others; eg: Am Classic vs Syncro.
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 10, 2021, at 4:02 AM, EricP  wrote:
>>>
>>> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the 
>>> nut? I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque 
>>> down on the frame to hold the post.
>>>
>>>
>>> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
>>> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
>>> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>>>
>>> Good luck.
>>>
>>> Eric Platt
>>> St. Paul, MN
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>>>
 With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in 
 the seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
 before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
 take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
 But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
 grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
 reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in 
 use.

 As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a 
 coke can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see 
 if that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it 
 can be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
 initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
 get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.

 Nick

>>> -- 
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Seatpost 26. S-65 Crystal Fellow or S-83

[Alex K]

Trying to correct some seat post issues.In SF Bay Area, I can pickup 
locally along BART lines.

Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Share More Riv Riding Pics

[Rick Urbanowski]

I can’t tell. It’s a close up of a brown frame

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 10, 2021, at 11:44 AM, st nick  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Urbanowski wrote,
> unread,
> Sep 9
> Wow! "Was that a cracked frame?"
> 
> Which bike Rick?
> 
> Paul in Dallas
> 
> Wh
> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Alex K]

So much good info.  Glad I am not alone here.  Gonna reclean the seat tube 
and apply the Blue Friction Grease again.  Guessing it won't work, so next 
will be the Coke can method.  Also gonna switch to a Crystal Fellow seat 
post.

 Thanks again for all the help.
Alex
On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 7:30:20 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> If you want max torque to clamp the seatpost use a quick release type 
> binder bolt. The one Riv sells is the Sunlite stainless steel version, 
> 6x55mm, not to be confused with the other Sunlite version which just says 
> steel and comes with steel spacers. 
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 9:33:42 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I’ve found that some brands are slightly (not “nominally;” it’s a tiny 
>> but real difference) bigger than others; eg: Am Classic vs Syncro.
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 10, 2021, at 4:02 AM, EricP  wrote:
>>
>> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the 
>> nut? I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque 
>> down on the frame to hold the post.
>>
>>
>> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
>> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
>> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>>
>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>>
>>> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
>>> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
>>> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
>>> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
>>> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
>>> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
>>> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>>>
>>> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke 
>>> can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if 
>>> that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can 
>>> be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
>>> initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
>>> get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Share More Riv Riding Pics

[st nick]

Rick Urbanowski wrote,
unread,Sep 9Wow! "Was that a cracked frame?"
Which bike Rick?
Paul in Dallas
Wh
.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Garth]

If you want max torque to clamp the seatpost use a quick release type 
binder bolt. The one Riv sells is the Sunlite stainless steel version, 
6x55mm, not to be confused with the other Sunlite version which just says 
steel and comes with steel spacers. 

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 9:33:42 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I’ve found that some brands are slightly (not “nominally;” it’s a tiny but 
> real difference) bigger than others; eg: Am Classic vs Syncro.
>
> Patrick Moore
> iPhone
>
> On Sep 10, 2021, at 4:02 AM, EricP  wrote:
>
> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the 
> nut? I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque 
> down on the frame to hold the post.
>
>
> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. 
> But my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. 
> In your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
>> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
>> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
>> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
>> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
>> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
>> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>>
>> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke 
>> can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if 
>> that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can 
>> be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
>> initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
>> get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>>
>> Nick
>>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Patrick Moore]

I’ve found that some brands are slightly (not “nominally;” it’s a tiny but real 
difference) bigger than others; eg: Am Classic vs Syncro.

Patrick Moore
iPhone

> On Sep 10, 2021, at 4:02 AM, EricP  wrote:
> 
> Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the nut? I 
> have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque down on 
> the frame to hold the post.
> 
> On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. But 
> my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. In 
> your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
> 
>> On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
>> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
>> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
>> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
>> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
>> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
>> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>> 
>> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke can 
>> - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if that 
>> makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can be 
>> cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the initial 
>> hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can get the 
>> scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>> 
>> Nick
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Analog Fingerling 5cm Quill Stem, Spank Ouzy Pedals, SunRace 11x50 11 speed cassette

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

PM sent for the 36t ring

Marty

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 7:26:20 AM UTC-4 Tim Bantham wrote:

> Up for sale is few items that may be of interest to my Riv friends!
>
> 1) Gorgeous filet brazed quill faceplate stem. This is Analog Cycles 
> Fingerling stem made by Alex Meade Cycles in Massachusetts. Incredible 
> workmanship! Just an amazing well built and attractive stem. This one is 
> finished with clear coat. Good for on or off road. Turned out to be too 
> short for my long arms. Paid $195 new. Asking $125 plus shipping. 
>
> 2)Spank Ouzy pedals in good condition. Had these on a Clem that I only 
> kept for a short period of time. $70 plus shipping cost. 
>
> 3) SunRace 11 speed rear cassette for a 1x setup. 11x50. $70 plus shipping
>
> Also in the group of photos is a Wolf Tooth 36T drop stop chain ring 110 
> BCD and a set of disc brake rotors. Let me know if you have interest in 
> either the rotors or the chainring and we can work out a price. 
>
> Please go to the photos here:   
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0u5n8hH4Kz0LP
>

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[RBW] FS: Analog Fingerling 5cm Quill Stem, Spank Ouzy Pedals, SunRace 11x50 11 speed cassette

[Tim Bantham]

Up for sale is few items that may be of interest to my Riv friends!

1) Gorgeous filet brazed quill faceplate stem. This is Analog Cycles 
Fingerling stem made by Alex Meade Cycles in Massachusetts. Incredible 
workmanship! Just an amazing well built and attractive stem. This one is 
finished with clear coat. Good for on or off road. Turned out to be too 
short for my long arms. Paid $195 new. Asking $125 plus shipping. 

2)Spank Ouzy pedals in good condition. Had these on a Clem that I only kept 
for a short period of time. $70 plus shipping cost. 

3) SunRace 11 speed rear cassette for a 1x setup. 11x50. $70 plus shipping

Also in the group of photos is a Wolf Tooth 36T drop stop chain ring 110 
BCD and a set of disc brake rotors. Let me know if you have interest in 
either the rotors or the chainring and we can work out a price. 

Please go to the photos here:   
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0u5n8hH4Kz0LP

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[RBW] Re: FS: cockpit - Analog/Spank "flare 25º" + DiaCompe 287 V-brake levers

[J Schwartz]

Dropping the price on this set-up to $115 plus shipping from New York 

On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 11:32:33 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:

> Hello, 
> I have a Bar/Lever combo here for sale for $135 plus shipping from New 
> York State
>
> Analog/Spank  Flare 25º wide drops , 46cm...these are super interesting 
> and incredibly comfy bars in that the 31.8mm clamp diameter size is 
> extended all the way along the flats of the bars just until the bar bends 
> towards the brake levers.
>
> https://analogcycles.com/products/spank-flare-25-degree-bars?variant=40095929401521
>
> Size is 46cm but they feel much wider than say..a noodle...because of that 
> flare ...they are wide enough to clear my quite huge BagsxBird (which is a 
> custom sized about 18" wide including pockets) 
>
> The levers are the much appreciated Dia Compe 287-V with gum colored hoods.
> The choices for long pull drop bar levers are few and these are perhaps 
> the most elegant out there.
>
> The bars are currently wrapped in some sort of orange/red Newbaurms and 
> then shellacked with half amber/half clear and finished off the the V.O. 
> waxed finishing thread in black. 
>
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/grips-wraps/products/extra-waxed-thread-for-bar-wraps-other-leathers
>
> There is brake housing under the wrap and that housing extends about 18" 
> for the rear once it exits the tape and about 15.5" for the front once it 
> exits the tape.  Definitely long enough for a 55cm Appaloosa with V'brakes 
> and a short/high stem.
>
> Obviously you'll need a face-plater type stem in 31.8mm size.  I used an 
> Analog 30mm on my Appaloosa. 
>
> Including a bunch of pics of them on my bike with both teal and rust 
> colored wrap and off.
>
> *PHOTOS HERE: *
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Schwalbe Thunder Burt // 29 x 2.1" // Pair // New/Never Used // $70 shipped

[Tim Bantham]

If anybody is thinking about Thunder Burt's I'd say go for it! I have these 
on my Appaloosa and they are the "Goldilocks" tire I've always wanted. They 
easily set up tubeless (if that's your thing) great on pavement and great 
on dirt. You'll love them! + free bump for Justin!

On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 6:57:19 PM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy 
(Brooklyn, NY) wrote:

> I got a good deal on these, but meant to order the 2.25" version. Brand 
> new, never unfolded or mounted. Folding bead, tubeless ready, etc. Compound 
> is "TLR PaceStar." 
>
> $70 shipped for the pair or $65 local pickup NYC. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[EricP]

Am assuming when you say you replaced the bolt, you also replaced the nut? 
I have found that nylock seatpost nuts don't allow me to fully torque down 
on the frame to hold the post.

On my Clem, a Kalloy Uno seatpost, in black, seems to not slip as much. But 
my issue is excess body weight, not a poor fit between post and frame. In 
your case, maybe a switch to a 27.0 post would be a better solution.

Good luck.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Friday, September 10, 2021 at 12:55:21 AM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:

> With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the 
> seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop 
> before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to 
> take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame. 
> But the post was, I considered, too loose a fit in the seat tube, so I 
> grabbed a 27.0mm seatpost (a Nitto S65) and did a very small amount of 
> reaming of the seat tube to ensure a perfect fit. It's never slipped in use.
>
> As a much cheaper alternative, you could cut yourself a shim from a coke 
> can - the aluminium in those is usually around 0.1mm thick - and see if 
> that makes a difference. The metal in those cans is thin enough that it can 
> be cut with a good sharp pair of scissors. You might have to hack the 
> initial hole in the side of the can with something else, but once you can 
> get the scissor blade in there, it should manage the rest.
>
> Nick
>

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