date:20221203

Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace and Japanese Recycling

2022-12-03 Thread Nick Payne

On Saturday, 3 December 2022 at 2:24:41 pm UTC+11 Scott wrote:

> John, the Atlantis I purchased new from Riv last month takes a 31.8 clamp 
> FD. Yours is a 28.6? They must have changed along the way?
>

I think you'll find your Atlantis seat tube is 28.6mm diameter (AKA 1⅛"). 
That's what the Riv website says.

Nick

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Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace and Japanese Recycling

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

The website description is fascinatingly murky, like I couldn't make it 
murkier if I tried. The seattube ovalizes as it heads down to the BB shell 
and I believe it is indeed 31.8 at the fd section (the MIT model). 
Toyo/Waterford was 28.6. 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:46:00 AM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:

> On Saturday, 3 December 2022 at 2:24:41 pm UTC+11 Scott wrote:
>
>> John, the Atlantis I purchased new from Riv last month takes a 31.8 clamp 
>> FD. Yours is a 28.6? They must have changed along the way?
>>
>
> I think you'll find your Atlantis seat tube is 28.6mm diameter (AKA 1⅛"). 
> That's what the Riv website says.
>
> Nick
>

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[RBW] Re: FS- Large Hubbuhhubbuh tandem, $1800.

2022-12-03 Thread Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY

Tandem is sold, and will make the long trek to central Brooklyn tomorrow. 
(I’ll get to have one last solo cruise on it 🙃)
Thanks all
-Kai


On Wednesday, November 30, 2022 at 10:54:46 AM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn 
NY wrote:

> Hey folks, 
> Economics and non-use force sale of a would be beloved bicycle.
> I rode it solo a bit, less than 30 miles, and did a couple very short 
> jaunts with a kiddo.
> It’s fairly swank, with a beautiful and expensive Velocity wheel set with 
> a SON dyno hub.
> I had big plans, but they relied too heavily upon the hope that others in 
> the family would fall in love with the thing. 
> I put clear helicopter tape on the top tube out back to facilitate feet 
> upon it while legs were growing, and routed the brake cable away from that 
> same section of top tube. Works like a charm. 
> Never got as far as hooking up a light or connecting the front shifter, 
> but I’ll include both a light and a front shifter in the sale. 
> Hoping for a local sale, can deliver in and around New York and the 
> surrounding areas, and I’m happy to $hip it.
> Photos- https://photos.app.goo.gl/tex6dqhe3pXZN83a7
> And I’ll be keeping my captain saddle
>
> Thanks much
> -Kai
>
>

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[RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug H.

I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
would be most appreciated. 
Doug

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

There's an order of operations to proper adjustment.Have you tried the Park
Tool website? They have some great videos for that.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:41 PM, Doug H. wrote: I
want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog?
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most
appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Also, you can hop onto the Shimano website and locate your FD model's Service
Instructions that will demonstrate step-by-step. I can send you the link later.
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:43 PM, Scott Luly wrote:
There's an order of operations to proper adjustment.Have you tried the Park
Tool website? They have some great videos for that.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug H.

Hey Scott,
I will do that. Thank you.
Doug

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:46:56 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

> Also, you can hop onto the Shimano website and locate your FD model's 
> Service Instructions that will demonstrate step-by-step. I can send you the 
> link later.
>
> Scott 
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:43 PM, Scott Luly
>  wrote:
> There's an order of operations to proper adjustment.
> Have you tried the Park Tool website? They have some great videos for that.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:41 PM, Doug H.
>  wrote:
> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
> would be most appreciated. 
> Doug
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Richard Rose

I recently replaced the Deore on my Clem with a nearly identical XTR. Only did so because it was cheap @ a tubeless tire explosion coated the Deore with sealant. That stuff just will not come off!A way I had never installed / tuned one before. The supplied instructions were very helpful - it was a cinch! If I can find those instruction I will see if I can forward some pics. In the meantime, I think Shimano provides access to these very same instructions on line.Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Doug H. wrote:I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug H.

That would be great. Thank you. I know it should be easy! And, if I learn 
to read instructions that would be most helpful. ;)
Doug

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 3:24:21 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I recently replaced the Deore on my Clem with a nearly identical XTR. Only 
> did so because it was cheap @ a tubeless tire explosion coated the Deore 
> with sealant. That stuff just will not come off!
> A way I had never installed / tuned one before. The supplied instructions 
> were very helpful - it was a cinch! If I can find those instruction I will 
> see if I can forward some pics. In the meantime, I think Shimano provides 
> access to these very same instructions on line.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Doug H.  wrote:
>
> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
> would be most appreciated. 
> Doug
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1faff1d8-a50b-406b-9398-d29af132187cn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Doug:
Chew on these...

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
https://si.shimano.com/en/#/en/search/Series?name=XTR&generation=Archive&type=MTB
On the Shimano site do some surfing around to find your FD model Service
Instructions.

Bon appetit,
Scott

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 01:34:39 PM MST, Doug H.
wrote:

That would be great. Thank you. I know it should be easy! And, if I learn to
read instructions that would be most helpful. ;)Doug

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 3:24:21 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Doug H. wrote:

I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog?
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most
appreciated. Doug

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61 cm Toyo A Homer Hilsen

2022-12-03 Thread Dave C

Price drop to $2300 complete minus saddle. I have swapped the rapid rise 
derailleur for a silver Shimano regular derailleur. Dave Carroll in 
Carlsbad, CA

On Thursday, December 1, 2022 at 10:59:59 AM UTC-8 Dave C wrote:

> I still have this for sale. It is terrific shape overall, excepting some 
> paint chipping on the seat tube/top tube lug at the pointy end. 
>
> On Sunday, November 13, 2022 at 12:21:04 PM UTC-8 Dave C wrote:
>
>> $2450. I am willing to have REI ship it at buyers expense. I will keep my 
>> saddle.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OeefpS48u-wgLaOtDpuYc4HewVltFt1T
>>
>> I recently purchased a early model, Toyo-built A Homer Hilsen from the 
>> previous owner in Los Angeles.  My goal was to see if I would prefer the 
>> Homer compared to my Romulus enough to justify the expense. I have invested 
>> a few hundred dollars in new Dura Ace bar end shifters, a new XT cassette, 
>> new 35 mm Gravelking slicks, and longer cables and cable housing to be able 
>> to raise and lower the bars so I can find my desired height. 
>>
>> It is a very nice bike, but I realize once I put on larger tires I will 
>> not sufficient standover for my preference, and I can already go up to 38 
>> mm on my Romulus.
>>
>> I think the frameset is in very good condition, perhaps excellent. There 
>> a few minor paint chips on a chain stay, and some chipping on the pointed 
>> part of the seat tube / top tube lug pointing towards the saddle. I believe 
>> this is a great opportunity for someone who wants a Toyo Homer in a 61 cm 
>> to get one in terrific shape. It fits very much like my previous 61 cm 
>> Atlantis. It actually handles in a very similar manner and that makes it 
>> difficult to sell, but I want to get a fast drop bar mountain bike and a 
>> slightly smaller 650b rando bike more than I want to have an additional 
>> 700c country bike.
>>
>> If you want to purchase it without pedals, I would sell it for $2400.
>>
>> I have a 77 cm saddle height set up as pictured. I would suggest this as 
>> a minimum, and if you are a little taller than me you will probably be able 
>> to run 40+ mm tires with zero issues. Please message me directly if you 
>> have serious interest in this bike. 
>>
>> Regarding the rest of the parts -
>> Nitto Noodle
>> Technomic stem, 9 cm (I can swap for another length if you prefer, I have 
>> a 5, 8 and a 11 cm.
>> Dura Ace bar end shifters, new
>> Kickstand
>> Nitto seatpost
>> Velocity Dyad rims, XT hubs
>> XT Rapid Rise rear derailer
>> IRD Alpina front derailer
>>
>> If you want to buy without the wheelset, I will sell it for $2100.
>>
>> David Carroll
>> Carlsbad, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB - Maybe ... - Clem L - Medium

2022-12-03 Thread Paul Clifton

I'm curious if anyone has a medium Clem L they'd like to sell. I'd prefer 
frame/fork, but I'd consider a complete or partial build.

If you have one, please send me a PM with details and your price.

I'm contemplating passing my Rosco Bebe on to another family, but need a 
replacement before I do. But hey, my daughter might be pedaling her own 
bike in the next couple weeks, so I may not even need a townie for much 
longer, so who knows how this'll all shake out.

Thanks,
Paul in AR


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[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works 
so here goes:

Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
crankarm. 

Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on 
the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough 
travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 

Easy! 😂

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
> would be most appreciated. 
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
is let out as much as it will go. 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
> works so here goes:
>
> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
> crankarm. 
>
> Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often 
> on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting 
> enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 
>
> Easy! 😂
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
>> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
>> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
>> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
>> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
>> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
>> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
>> would be most appreciated. 
>> Doug
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug Hansford

Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!DougSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable is let out as much as it will go. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works so here goes:Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and crankarm. Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. Easy! 😂On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most appreciated. Doug

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[RBW] Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread Jacob Byard

Hello good people,

I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash 
doesn't work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm 
bottom bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. 

I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake 
on my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem 
to have enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had 
everything installed correctly. 

The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.  

If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance 
issues? I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the 
option. 

Thanks for any insight!

Cheers,

Jacob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
wrong! 😬

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
> move the cage through that range.
>
> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
> a hex bolt. 
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
>> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
>> Doug
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
>> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
>> is let out as much as it will go. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
>>> works so here goes:
>>>
>>> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
>>> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
>>> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
>>> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
>>> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
>>> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
>>> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
>>> crankarm. 
>>>
>>> Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often 
>>> on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting 
>>> enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 
>>>
>>> Easy! 😂
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>>
 I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
 Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
 Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
 largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
 I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
 pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
 after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any 
 advice 
 would be most appreciated. 
 Doug

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>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread Justus G

If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should 
have a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not 
hit the stays and enough range for the triple.  I am currently using this 
setup with a 110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB.  But 
you may not need a new FD anyway.

Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact?  If so, that is meant to 
be run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out 
of range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline. 

My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs 
what you have now to tire) and go to that.  Perfect chainline.  Great 
Q-factor.  Prefect.  

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello good people,
>
> I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash 
> doesn't work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm 
> bottom bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. 
>
> I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake 
> on my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem 
> to have enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had 
> everything installed correctly. 
>
> The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.  
>
> If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance 
> issues? I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the 
> option. 
>
> Thanks for any insight!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jacob
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug Hansford

It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all wrong! 😬On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will move the cage through that range.If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use a hex bolt. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!DougSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable is let out as much as it will go. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works so here goes:Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and crankarm. Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. Easy! 😂On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread Jacob Byard

I just checked and it’s a 110 BCD on the big ring. I’ve got just under .5” of clearance if I’m in the small/ big combo. So I should be fine swapping in a narrower BB. I’ll see about picking up one of the m737 or m563’s Thanks for the help! Cheers,JacobSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G wrote:If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should have a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not hit the stays and enough range for the triple. I am currently using this setup with a 110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB. But you may not need a new FD anyway.Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact? If so, that is meant to be run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out of range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline. My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs what you have now to tire) and go to that. Perfect chainline. Great Q-factor. Prefect. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:Hello good people,I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash doesn't work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm bottom bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake on my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem to have enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had everything installed correctly. The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB. If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues? I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option. Thanks for any insight!Cheers,Jacob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

A spindle length of 107mm should give a chain line of 47.5mm (which is kind of
standard, if I'm not mistaken) and 113mm a 50mm.
I run a 113 because I like to run my rings a scratch more outboard.
I'm not a subject matter expert, but a 123 BB sounds very long for a triple
set-up, or even double.
Service Instructions for my Shimano FDs indicates recommended chain line for
various Shimano BBs and 123 isn't even on the list. I can double check when I
return home and send you the chart I have.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:18 PM, Jacob Byard wrote: I
just checked and it’s a 110 BCD on the big ring. I’ve got just under .5” of
clearance if I’m in the small/ big combo. So I should be fine swapping in a
narrower BB.
I’ll see about picking up one of the m737 or m563’s
Thanks for the help!

Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G wrote:

If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should have
a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not hit the
stays and enough range for the triple. I am currently using this setup with a
110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB. But you may not need a
new FD anyway.
Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact? If so, that is meant to be
run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out of
range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline.
My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs what
you have now to tire) and go to that. Perfect chainline. Great Q-factor.
Prefect.

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

Hello good people,
I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash doesn't
work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm bottom
bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire.

I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake on
my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem to have
enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had everything
installed correctly.

The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.

If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues?
I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option.

Thanks for any insight!
Cheers,
Jacob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread Jacob Byard

In my notes I had 123mm written down. So who knows how I came up with that. I have notes everywhere. Like a crazy person. I’m ordering a 113mm now and will swap it out. Going narrower will probably help my knees too. Cheers,JacobSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 7:44 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:A spindle length of 107mm should give a chain line of 47.5mm (which is kind of standard, if I'm not mistaken) and 113mm a 50mm.I run a 113 because I like to run my rings a scratch more outboard.I'm not a subject matter expert, but a 123 BB sounds very long for a triple set-up, or even double.Service Instructions for my Shimano FDs indicates recommended chain line for various Shimano BBs and 123 isn't even on the list. I can double check when I return home and send you the chart I have.Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidOn Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:18 PM, Jacob Byard wrote: I just checked and it’s a 110 BCD on the big ring. I’ve got just under .5” of clearance if I’m in the small/ big combo. So I should be fine swapping in a narrower BB. I’ll see about picking up one of the m737 or m563’s Thanks for the help! Cheers,JacobSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G wrote:If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should have a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not hit the stays and enough range for the triple. I am currently using this setup with a 110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB. But you may not need a new FD anyway.Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact? If so, that is meant to be run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out of range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline. My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs what you have now to tire) and go to that. Perfect chainline. Great Q-factor. Prefect. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:Hello good people,I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash doesn't work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm bottom bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake on my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem to have enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had everything installed correctly. The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB. If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues? I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option. Thanks for any insight!Cheers,Jacob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Probably a typo on your part?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:57 PM, Jacob Byard wrote:
In my notes I had 123mm written down. So who knows how I came up with that. I
have notes everywhere. Like a crazy person. I’m ordering a 113mm now and will
swap it out. Going narrower will probably help my knees too.
Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 7:44 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
wrote:

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G wrote:

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.

If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues?
I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option.

Thanks for any insight!
Cheers,
Jacob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Joe,
I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy. I'm happy to discard
what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification than
too much.
I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short time
I've been in the group.
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford wrote:
It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:

Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned over
the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's served me
well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all wrong! 😬

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and H to
cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will move the
cage through that range.
If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt there.
Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use a hex bolt.

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable loose
when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!Doug

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:

Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L
setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable is
let out as much as it will go.

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works so
here goes:
Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way out,
then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear the
chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it swinging
any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and shift to the
big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the big ring? Good,
now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the chain from
overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and crankarm.
Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on the
first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough travel
to knock the chain to the next ring.
Easy! 😂

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes or 
set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

> Joe,
>
> I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to 
> discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
>
> I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification 
> than too much.
>
> I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
>
> My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short 
> time I've been in the group.
>
> Scott
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford
>  wrote:
>
> It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
> over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
> served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
> wrong! 😬
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
> move the cage through that range.
>
> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
> a hex bolt. 
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>
> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
> Doug
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
> is let out as much as it will go. 
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
> works so here goes:
>
> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
> crankarm. 
>
> Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often 
> on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting 
> enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 
>
> Easy! 😂
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>
> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
> would be most appreciated. 
> Doug
>
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[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch

Doug

It sounds like the FD does not move far enough to the inside to shift to 
the granny of a triple with the low adjustment screw all the way out.  A 
possibility is your FD is designed for a front chain line greater than you 
actual front chain line.   FD have about 20mm of sideway motion and if the 
front chain lines are mismatched AND the crank ring spacing is > 5mm, the 
FD can move to the granny.

Suggestion:
Measure the front chain line to the middle chain ring and compare it to the 
design value for the FD
Measure the front chain line of the granny ring.  If the middle - granny is 
> 5mm (like 7 to 8 mm on a Sugino XD/TD crank you may have a problem.

Possible solution:  Get an old triple FD designed for a 45 mm front chain 
line, like a FD-MT-60 form the 80's.  I bought a Sora FD-3030b (9spd) with 
a FCL of 45m and it shifts a Sugino TD-2 46-36-26 with problem.  The 
XT-FD-M781-AX6S had a FCL of about 50mm and could not shift to the 28T 
granny.  TD-2 ring spacing is 8mm Outer to Middle and 5mm Inner to Small.  
 I bought the Sora from Universal Cycles  for $34.88.  My FD-MT60 also 
shifted it fine, part of a Biopace crank on a 88 Schwinn Voyaguer.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:41:41 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
> would be most appreciated. 
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Doug H.

John,
My chain ring is a double...38x24. I think it will work if I can get it 
adjusted. That is some good information though and I will keep it in mind. 
The collective knowledge here in this group is a fantastic resource.
Doug

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 8:47:45 PM UTC-5 John Hawrylak wrote:

> Doug
>
> It sounds like the FD does not move far enough to the inside to shift to 
> the granny of a triple with the low adjustment screw all the way out.  A 
> possibility is your FD is designed for a front chain line greater than you 
> actual front chain line.   FD have about 20mm of sideway motion and if the 
> front chain lines are mismatched AND the crank ring spacing is > 5mm, the 
> FD can move to the granny.
>
> Suggestion:
> Measure the front chain line to the middle chain ring and compare it to 
> the design value for the FD
> Measure the front chain line of the granny ring.  If the middle - granny 
> is > 5mm (like 7 to 8 mm on a Sugino XD/TD crank you may have a problem.
>
> Possible solution:  Get an old triple FD designed for a 45 mm front chain 
> line, like a FD-MT-60 form the 80's.  I bought a Sora FD-3030b (9spd) with 
> a FCL of 45m and it shifts a Sugino TD-2 46-36-26 with problem.  The 
> XT-FD-M781-AX6S had a FCL of about 50mm and could not shift to the 28T 
> granny.  TD-2 ring spacing is 8mm Outer to Middle and 5mm Inner to Small.  
>  I bought the Sora from Universal Cycles  for $34.88.  My FD-MT60 also 
> shifted it fine, part of a Biopace crank on a 88 Schwinn Voyaguer.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:41:41 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
>> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
>> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
>> largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when 
>> I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is 
>> pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, 
>> after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice 
>> would be most appreciated. 
>> Doug
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread brendonoid

My Susie is clearing a 2.8" rear tyre with a triple setup on a 113mm BB 
atm. Not the same crank but majority of that era triples were pretty much 
made for 110mm BBs except for some Suntours which needed crazy long ones.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Junes

Joe, you’re incredibly generous with your knowledge and experience. Thank you!! I’ve learned so much from your contributions to this community, and I very much appreciate the basics, too. The deeper I get into working on my bikes myself, the more I understand that 1) the notion of bike “standards” is hilarious and 2) what might be obvious to one person is not at all obvious to another. Everyone starts somewhere. You’re a great teacher, and you instruct with humor and kindness. On Dec 3, 2022, at 20:22, Joe Bernard wrote:I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes or set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:Joe,I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy. I'm happy to discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification than too much.I'm here to learn, not show what I know.My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short time I've been in the group.ScottSent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidOn Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford wrote: It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all wrong! 😬On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will move the cage through that range.If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use a hex bolt. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!DougSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable is let out as much as it will go. On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works so here goes:Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and crankarm. Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. Easy! 😂On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Ray Varella

I’ve always done my initial  derailer adjustments before I install the 
chain. 
Front and rear both get installed and before the cable is connected I 
adjust the limit screw so that the front’s cage is centered on the small 
ring and the rear pulleys are centered on the small cog. 
Then I install the cables  and take up the slack, cinch the cable, run 
through the range of motion a few times to set the housing in the 
 ferrules. 
Then check the slack. 
Next, install the chain and run through the gears being careful not to run 
the chain into the spokes. 

Like Joe said, it can take a bot of fine tuning to get things perfect so I 
take my screwdriver and Allen wrench on a test ride. 
Getting the gross adjustment really close will minimize the fine tuning. 

Ray “also self taught many decades ago“  Varella 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 6:03:25 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

> Joe, you’re incredibly generous with your knowledge and experience. Thank 
> you!! I’ve learned so much from your contributions to this community, and I 
> very much appreciate the basics, too. The deeper I get into working on my 
> bikes myself, the more I understand that 1) the notion of bike “standards” 
> is hilarious and 2) what might be obvious to one person is not at all 
> obvious to another. Everyone starts somewhere. You’re a great teacher, and 
> you instruct with humor and kindness. 
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 20:22, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes 
> or set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to 
>> discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
>>
>> I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification 
>> than too much.
>>
>> I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
>>
>> My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short 
>> time I've been in the group.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> 
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford
>>  wrote:
>>
>> It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
>> over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
>> served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
>> wrong! 😬
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
>> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
>> move the cage through that range.
>>
>> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
>> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
>> a hex bolt. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
>> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
>> Doug
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
>> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
>> is let out as much as it will go. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
>> works so here goes:
>>
>> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
>> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
>> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
>> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
>> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
>> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
>> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
>> crankarm. 
>>
>> Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often 
>> on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting 
>> enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 
>>
>> Easy! 😂
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
>> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
>> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
>> largest rear cog? Should the H and L scr

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread Ray Varella

I’ve always done my initial  derailer adjustments before I install the 
chain. 
Front and rear both get installed and before the cable is connected I 
adjust the limit screw so that the front’s cage is centered on the small 
ring and the rear pulleys are centered on the small cog. 
Then I install the cables  and take up the slack, cinch the cable, run 
through the range of motion a few times to set the housing in the 
 ferrules. 
Then check the slack. 
Next, install the chain and run through the gears being careful not to run 
the chain into the spokes. 

Like Joe said, it can take a bot of fine tuning to get things perfect so I 
take my screwdriver and Allen wrench on a test ride. 
Getting the gross adjustment really close will minimize the fine tuning. 

Ray “also self taught many decades ago“  Varella

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 6:03:25 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

> Joe, you’re incredibly generous with your knowledge and experience. Thank 
> you!! I’ve learned so much from your contributions to this community, and I 
> very much appreciate the basics, too. The deeper I get into working on my 
> bikes myself, the more I understand that 1) the notion of bike “standards” 
> is hilarious and 2) what might be obvious to one person is not at all 
> obvious to another. Everyone starts somewhere. You’re a great teacher, and 
> you instruct with humor and kindness. 
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 20:22, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes 
> or set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to 
>> discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
>>
>> I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification 
>> than too much.
>>
>> I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
>>
>> My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short 
>> time I've been in the group.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> 
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford
>>  wrote:
>>
>> It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
>> over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
>> served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
>> wrong! 😬
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
>> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
>> move the cage through that range.
>>
>> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
>> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
>> a hex bolt. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
>> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
>> Doug
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
>> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
>> is let out as much as it will go. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
>> works so here goes:
>>
>> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
>> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
>> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
>> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
>> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
>> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
>> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
>> crankarm. 
>>
>> Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often 
>> on the first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting 
>> enough travel to knock the chain to the next ring. 
>>
>> Easy! 😂
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my 
>> Shimano Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. 
>> Is it proper to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and 
>> largest rear cog? Should the H and L scre

[RBW] Downtube shifting boss question

2022-12-03 Thread maxcr

Hi Everyone I'm working on a new project and bumped into this shifting boss 
which I've never seen. They don't seem to accept a standard brass ferrule.

Any ideas on how to deal with these other than replacing them?

Thanks
Max
[image: IMG_8920.jpeg]

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[RBW] Re: Downtube shifting boss question

2022-12-03 Thread Ray Varella


It looks like a cover to allow running a cable stop at the shifter boss. 
If you pull it off, there should be a regular shifter boss under it. 
Those caps allow you to use bar end, thumb shifters or brifters. 

Ray
On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 9:24:24 PM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> Hi Everyone I'm working on a new project and bumped into this shifting 
> boss which I've never seen. They don't seem to accept a standard brass 
> ferrule.
>
> Any ideas on how to deal with these other than replacing them?
>
> Thanks
> Max
> [image: IMG_8920.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Downtube shifting boss question

2022-12-03 Thread Joe Bernard

Will shifter housing fit in there without a ferrule?

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 9:24:24 PM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> Hi Everyone I'm working on a new project and bumped into this shifting 
> boss which I've never seen. They don't seem to accept a standard brass 
> ferrule.
>
> Any ideas on how to deal with these other than replacing them?
>
> Thanks
> Max
> [image: IMG_8920.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace and Japanese Recycling

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[RBW] Re: FS- Large Hubbuhhubbuh tandem, $1800.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61 cm Toyo A Homer Hilsen

[RBW] WTB - Maybe ... - Clem L - Medium

[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[RBW] Downtube shifting boss question

[RBW] Re: Downtube shifting boss question

[RBW] Re: Downtube shifting boss question

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