[RBW] Re: FS: Quickbeam 54 Orange

[Valerie Yates]

Sale is pending! That was fast. No time for me to have second thoughts 
about passing this one along. Has been a favorite. 

Val in Boulder CO
On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 5:23:13 PM UTC-6 Valerie Yates wrote:

> I am offering for sale my orange Quickbeam 54 with the parts listed as 
> included, below. It is a super fun bike to ride and is in lovely condition. 
> I see only a couple of scratches on the front fork where I leaned it 
> against a rock when pumping a tire, a small nick on the seat tube, and 
> paint wear around the rear wheel drop-outs. The gearing is great for my 
> hilly neighborhood. Tons of pictures are here 
> . 
>
> Price is $1800 net to me of any transaction/buyer protection fees. Paypal, 
> Venmo or Zelle accepted.  I will  pay to have it professionally packed at 
> my local bike store, a Bike Flights partner. Once packed, buyer to arrange 
> and pay for shipping directly with Bike Flights. 
>
> Did I forget to mention anything? Let me know if you have questions. 
>
> *Included*
>
> ·   Frame, fork, headset, & bottom bracket
>
> ·   Wheels: SunRim CR18 silver
>
> ·   Tires: Compass Bon Jon Pass 700x35
>
> ·   Front hub: Shimano Deore DX
>
> ·   Rear hub: Surly flip-flop
>
> ·   Crank: Sugino 170 length
>
> ·   Chain rings: Chainguard, 40, 32
>
> ·   Freewheel: White Industries Dos Enos Blue 16/18
>
> ·   Fixed cog: Suzue 16
>
> ·   Handlebar: Nitto 42 short reach, not certain which one but likely 
> the M151F
>
> ·   Brakes: Tektro canti
>
> ·   Brake levers: Shimano
>
> ·   Seatpost: Nitto 65
>
> ·   Stem: Nitto 7 cm (possibly technomic, not sure)
>
> *Optional*: +$200 to include Berthoud Aspin touring saddle in Cork 
> colorway with Berthoud Klickflix Saddlebag. Saddle in great condition. Bag 
> leather has some water spots. 
> *Excluded:* MKS pedals, King Cage Iris water bottle cage
> [image: PXL_20230421_210830887.MP.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: matching paint

[Michael Morrissey]

>From Rivendell's Tumblr page when the Joe Appaloosa was introduced:

*Colors*

We’re calling the color shown here, Dark Mustard, but it responds to brown, 
butterscotch, or Pantone 132C, too. The other color is a creamy blue with a 
hint of green. A really beautiful, soft, nice color as well.

https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/135532314029/the-wannabe-legendary-joe-appaloosa-appaloosa-is



On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:00:42 AM UTC-4 Tom Horton wrote:

> a tired old question, but anyone got a match for the 'mustard' color on 
> the joe app? 
>
> a sizeable tulip poplar (8-10 inch diameter) fell on joe last year, just 
> missing my head. broke/bent stem, bars, stainless front rack, stout wheel 
> and summa my ribs; but the double top tube frame and fork remained true, 
> albeit scarred.
> sky blue day, windless. go figure.
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Child Stoker Kit for HubbuhHubbuh

[Paul Clifton]

I'd like to buy a used child stoker kit that fits the 1 1/4" seat tube of 
the HubbuhHubbuh. 

This Burley version looks like it would work, but I'd rather not pay 300 
bucks, and if anyone's kids have outgrown theirs, I'd love to give it a new 
home.
https://budgetbicyclectr.com/burley-tandem-child-stoker-conversion-kit-5368.html

Please reply off list if you have one, and feel free to reply on list if 
you have tips and tricks for using these things.

All the best,
Paul in AR

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[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

The reason I suggest the chain hanger is that on one of my 1x bikes, 
recently, the chain suddenly started not wanting to stay on the chainring 
(VO chainring on SunXCD cranks - low miles on both). I got to looking at it 
and the chain appeared to be twisted where it got to the chainring. Further 
inspection revealed that the chain appeared to be twisted everywhere, then 
I looked at the bike from the rear, and the derailleur was obviously 
slanted in relation to the freewheel. I got out the hanger tool and 
straightened out the hanger - problem solved. The bike had apparently 
fallen over and bent the hanger in, the large pulley Altus derailleur was 
fine though. 

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd 
> in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> . 

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Ted W]

I agree with the other folks here, if it’s popping off the chainring, is it
popping off inside or outside? Was the bike originally a 1x or did you do a
conversion? If you converted it, did you reuse an old double/triple crank?
Did you put the ring on the inside or outside of the spider? Did you use a
narrow-wide chainring?

All of these things are important and can affect the reliability of the
chain staying on the chainring. Usually this will either be because of, as
others have said, chain tension or lack of a clutched derailer if it’s
popping off over bumps. If it’s popping off when shifting, I’d be
suspicious of your chain line.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 4:32 PM Caroline Golum 
wrote:

> Part of this issue too, FWIW, is my ongoing frustration with hitting
> specific gears with a friction shifter. If the chain slack is the culprit
> or the derailleur hanger then it takes care of two problems and I don't
> hate that!
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 3:45:43 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ
> wrote:
>
>> Caroline
>>
>> Might want to consider installing a N-Gear Jump Stop or similar chain
>> stop device on the seat tube to prevent the chain from coming off.  Sounds
>> like when you shift, you develop a wave in the chain which takes it off the
>> ring
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:
>>
>>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps
>>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had
>>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc.
>>>
>>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an
>>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2
>>> .
>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>
-- 
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >

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Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Eric Marth]

Got it, thanks Patrick! 

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 3:51:15 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Eric: You can put me down for 2 instead of just 1; thanks.
>
> Patrick Moore
>
> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 1:01 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> Got it, thanks Stephanie! 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:52:32 AM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>
>>> I'd also be in for a couple!
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:03:12 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Thanks, Ted, got you down for a couple. 

 Haven't heard back from my contact in the UK, will follow up with 
 everyone when I do. 

 On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:52:43 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my 
> email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:
>
>> Count me in for a couple!
>>
>> P. W.
>> ~
>> (917) 514-2207
>> ~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>> Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing 
>> clamps. The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be 
>> interested 
>> in importing some for other cyclists. 
>>
>> I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell. 
>>
>> The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. 
>> They're made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, 
>> two 
>> washers and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on 
>> old 
>> British race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well. 
>>
>> If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some 
>> nice clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you 
>> need 
>> to clamp your housing. 
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>>
>> -- 
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>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>
 -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Eric Marth]

Ted, glad to see you got an Appaloosa ordered. Do let us know how it all 
works out with the fit and the ride once you have it all built up!

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 9:46:29 AM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the info, Garth! So, apologies about the confusion in my last 
> email. I am on a bike tour this week and trying to do everything on my 
> phone leads to funny wording sometimes, not to mention the difficulty 
> constructing coherent thoughts with the brain fog from all day riding. I 
> did not mean to say they were “mostly identical”, you are correct, there is 
> quite a difference. However, considering that I needed a longer set back 
> seat post and very long stem on the LHT, the extra room should be a 
> welcomed difference and the end result of the fit should be mostly 
> identical using normal-ish parts (standard set back and reasonable length 
> stem). I was able to use the LHT as a reference for how the Appa would fit 
> in relation to something I had experience with, despite their differences 
> and that’s teLly what I was trying to figure out. The last thing I wanted 
> to do was wind up with something that was severally out of whack to where I 
> wouldn’t enjoy such an otherwise lovely bike.
>
> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 8:48 AM Garth  wrote:
>
>> Ted, Origin8 makes a "Pro Fit"  zero setback 26.8 silver seatpost. (365 
>> Cycles sells them) I don't know about the quality of the hardware. I'm 
>> mainly referring to the bolts and the length of the clamp itself as to how 
>> long it holds the rails. Kalloy for example, sucks !  Nitto and Thomson 
>> make them in 26.8 for more money but have proper clamps and stout bolts. 
>> This will allow you to get your saddle positioned over the BB where you 
>> need it. *This positioning comes first*, before any consideration of 
>> reach to the bars. 
>>
>> By the way, the STA and HTA are anything but nearly identical ! The 
>> difference between 71.5d and 73d in seat angle = appx. 18mm further back of 
>> the seat tube at saddle height. The 72d and 71d HTA means the Appa bars 
>> don't move back as much as they do with the shallower LHT. This is where 
>> when comparing frames you must look at everything in relation with 
>> everything else. I'm assuming these two frames : 
>>
>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa4,5f5e45837fbbda0017192063
>>
>> You can input things here https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ if you really 
>> want to see how things change. It's sorta geeky, but you catch on how it 
>> works. It beats buying the wrong frame though. 
>>
>> I've edited this so much my heads spinning so forgive me if it's a bit 
>> scattered !
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Whoosa Getting an Appaloosa? 2023

[Eric Marth]

Nice, Ted! 

Looking forward to seeing these builds. 

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:09:08 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Got my 57 in purp!
>
> On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 3:06 PM Keith Weaver  wrote:
>
>> Looks like I got mine! All paid for, and order confirmation received. I'm 
>> seeing some have already sold out. 
>>
>> On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 8:45 AM Keith Weaver  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm hoping to get one, have been planning the build for months now. I 
>>> have a pair of Velo Orange Crazy Bars that I bought for a 90s MTB 
>>> conversion. That MTB had such a short steer tube I couldn't make it work, 
>>> but I kept the bars. We'll see if they work for the Appaloosa. I do have a 
>>> pair of Albatross bars around as a backup. I bought a used pair of Vittoria 
>>> Terreno Dry tires (Thanks, Joe!) that are 47 mm wide as my starter pair. 
>>> Not sure what type of tire I'll end up with, but these look like a decent 
>>> compromise to start.
>>>
>>> It's been a lot of fun acquiring old parts, I'm going with an XTR rear 
>>> derailleur, Dura-ace clamp-on front, XT parallel-push V-brakes. I had Rich 
>>> build up a pair of wheels with a SON dynamo, also my first dynamo bike.
>>>
>>> I'm going for the Limeolive, can't quite get excited about the purple. I 
>>> really wanted mermaid, but oh well.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Keith
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 7:16 AM Johnny Alien  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I am shocked thats a hot color honestly. I am not a huge fan and 
 Rivendell is set on making every bike in that color at this point. Then 
 again I am not in the market for a new bike right now so it doesn't affect 
 me. :)

 On Friday, May 26, 2023 at 10:12:49 AM UTC-4 John A. Bennett wrote:

> *I'd say if you want a purple Joe Appaloosa, pretend it's 2021. *
>
> On Friday, May 26, 2023 at 5:26:07 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi all — Who's getting an Appaloosa today? What color frame? Are you 
>> building it up or Rivendell? How are you specifying the build? What size 
>> tires? Which bars? 
>>
>> I got mine built up in 2021 and had it built by Mark Abele at Riv. 
>> But within a year I'd replaced the bars, stem, shifters, front wheel, 
>> rear 
>> derailer, front derailer and maybe something else I'm forgetting! It's 
>> been 
>> a great bike. 
>>
>> Best of luck to everyone logging on today, I hope the sale is nice 
>> and relaxed rather than a frantic shootout. Back in 2021 the Platypus 
>> and 
>> Appaloosa frames sold out with lightning speed. It seems things have 
>> calmed 
>> a bit based on the last several frame releases. 
>>
>> Let us know what you're ordering. 
>>
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 .

>>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 54cm like new Mermaid Roadini

[Ahmed Elgasseir]

BUMP. Not sure why I’m getting nothing on this but price is negotiable. All 
the parts are top of the line. 

Ahmed in San Mateo

On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 8:35:42 AM UTC-7 Ahmed Elgasseir wrote:

> Moving, Getting Divorced, thinning the herd some more. Beautiful build. 
> More pics upon request. I prefer local if possible - I’m in San Mateo. 
> $2000 saddle and pedals included.

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[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Caroline Golum]

Part of this issue too, FWIW, is my ongoing frustration with hitting 
specific gears with a friction shifter. If the chain slack is the culprit 
or the derailleur hanger then it takes care of two problems and I don't 
hate that!

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 3:45:43 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> Caroline
>
> Might want to consider installing a N-Gear Jump Stop or similar chain stop 
> device on the seat tube to prevent the chain from coming off.  Sounds like 
> when you shift, you develop a wave in the chain which takes it off the ring
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>
>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>> . 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Patrick Moore]

Eric: You can put me down for 2 instead of just 1; thanks.

Patrick Moore

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 1:01 PM Eric Marth  wrote:

> Got it, thanks Stephanie!
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:52:32 AM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>
>> I'd also be in for a couple!
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:03:12 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Ted, got you down for a couple.
>>>
>>> Haven't heard back from my contact in the UK, will follow up with
>>> everyone when I do.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:52:43 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my
 email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.

 On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:

> Count me in for a couple!
>
> P. W.
> ~
> (917) 514-2207
> ~
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>
> Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing
> clamps. The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be interested
> in importing some for other cyclists.
>
> I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell.
>
> The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. They're
> made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, two washers
> and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on old British
> race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well.
>
> If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some
> nice clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you need
> to clamp your housing.
>
> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>
> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>
> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>
> --
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> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/96573840-390a-4693-bc1c-585d0696f1ccn%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>
> --
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> 
> .
>
 --
 Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >

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> .
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---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

['John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Caroline

Might want to consider installing a N-Gear Jump Stop or similar chain stop 
device on the seat tube to prevent the chain from coming off.  Sounds like 
when you shift, you develop a wave in the chain which takes it off the ring

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd 
> in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> . 

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Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Eric Marth]

Got it, thanks Stephanie! 

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:52:32 AM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:

> I'd also be in for a couple!
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:03:12 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Ted, got you down for a couple. 
>>
>> Haven't heard back from my contact in the UK, will follow up with 
>> everyone when I do. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:52:43 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my 
>>> email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:
>>>
 Count me in for a couple!

 P. W.
 ~
 (917) 514-2207
 ~




 On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:

 Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing clamps. 
 The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be interested in 
 importing some for other cyclists. 

 I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell. 

 The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. They're 
 made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, two washers 
 and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on old British 
 race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well. 

 If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some 
 nice clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you need 
 to clamp your housing. 

 <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>

 <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>

 <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>

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 .
 <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
 <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
 <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>

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>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7CC75FBD-9501-425F-B3B1-D38533FBC046%40gmail.com
  
 
 .

>>> -- 
>>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Garth]

So the "chain keeps coming off the crank" . where ? (inner ring or 
outer or both ?) When ? (any particular cogs or all of them, terrains, 
bumps, etc ? )

What bike frame and how long are chainstays ? Which crank and ring ?

Without knowing that offhand, myfirst thoughts are also the derailleur 
hanger, and the position of the chainring relative to the cassette. Is the 
chain relatively straight in which cog, 5 or 6 ?  If you have something 
long, thin and straight that may help to "see straight". 

If the chain is not staying put in a given gear though that really points 
to a crooked hanger, at least initially. 

Check the proper chain length easily here 
https://www.omnicalculator.com/sports/chain-length

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[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Piaw Na]

If the chain is coming off the crank, my experience is (1) you need a 
narrow-wide chainring -- if you don't have one, you need to get one. (2) 
the rear derailleur might not have a clutch. (3) you might have excessive 
chain length. Too much chain and your 1x setup will be prone to derailling.

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:32:44 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd 
> in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> . 

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Caroline Golum]

Thanks Laing, appreciate it <3

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:58:22 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> I will take that as a no, the derailleur hanger was not checked. I would 
> make sure that the derailleur hanger was straight.
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:53:07 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both 
>> new parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>>
>> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur 
>> were good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built 
>> the bike in 2009. 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>>> hanger is straight?
>>>
>>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
 Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?

 On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
 wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've 
> had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> .  
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[brizbarn]

Thanks for the diagram Christian.  I'll give that a try when I get a rear 
light, just having a hard time wanting to spend 80 some dollars on a tiny 
rear light at the moment.

Nice set up Ted.  Looks similar to mine, I just skipped the a few steps. 
 It's working great for me so far.

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:20:25 AM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:

> Hey Brizbarn,
>
> Correct, tail light should be powered through the appropoite connector on 
> the headlight. I believe the tail light has a lower power requirement than 
> what the dynamo provides. 
>
> I attached a diagram that is the same wiring scheme as my bike and what 
> your message discribes, its easier for me to understand if I draw it than 
> to write it out (electrical peeps, forgive me for the + and -). Sounds like 
> what you described would work though! You can pull those little red caps 
> off the ring terminals (loop crimp) and use heat shrink for a cleaner look. 
> The connections can be soldered or crimped in place. 
>
> Christian
> Phoenix, AZ
>
>
> On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 4:45:37 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:
>
>> Hey Christian and Matthew, thanks for the posts.  Wow, that frame routing 
>> looks great Matthew, didn't realize you could go through the chain stay, 
>> good work.  I'm planning something very similar, but not sure I'll go 
>> through the frame.  B IQ-XS front light, B U, My, Mini (whatever it's 
>> called) rear, with Shutter Precision hub. 
>>
>> Some follow up Christian:  My understanding is that you should not power 
>> a rear light straight from the dynamo hub, but rather from the front light. 
>> Not sure if that is what you meant.  My thought was to use the existing 
>> spade connectors from front light (you can see in first pic), ground one of 
>> those to the front rack, and run one strand of Velo Lumino thin wire to 
>> rear light via the other spade connector.  Then connect it with a spade 
>> connector to the rear light, and ground the rear light to the frame (via a 
>> rack eyelet where I'll be mounting the light).  You said running two stands 
>> of Velo Lumino wire is more straight forward, but do you think my plan 
>> would work?
>> [image: IMG_0129.JPG] 
>> [image: IMG_0131.JPG]for reference: Left is Velo Lumino 22 wire. Right 
>> is B double strand. If I need to run two strands of Velo L wire from 
>> front to rear light, its not much thinner than running B double strand, 
>> just more pliable and better insulated is my understanding.
>> [image: IMG_0133.JPG]for reference in this pic: B double strand wire 
>> with spade connectors, two spade terminals, a banana connector, a loop 
>> crimp for grounding.
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 1:46:41 PM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Matthew, 
>>>
>>> I’m replying on my phone so apologies in advance for any typos or 
>>> non-standard formatting. 
>>>
>>> Running two wires to the taillight from the dynamo is probably the best 
>>> and loner straightforward way to do it. It’s a closed system and easy to 
>>> track down any issues if they arise. 
>>>
>>> I’m not sure which model B light you have but you can certainly try 
>>> grounding one side of the dynamo and one side of light to the fork and 
>>> frame respectively. I’ve heard the anodizing on some higher quality 
>>> cartridge bearing headsets (Chris King, etc) can prevent the continuity 
>>> between the fork and the frame. In the past folks have suggested removing 
>>> the anodization around the neck of the headset cup to allow current to pass 
>>> through. It’s easy to check for continuity between frame and fork; set a 
>>> multimeter to resistance (ohms) and touch one probe to bare metal on the 
>>> fork, and the other probe to bare metal on the frame (eyelet or dropout 
>>> works well). If the needle or number is close or on zero you shouldn’t have 
>>> a problem. If there’s no change in reading then you don’t have continuity, 
>>> probe around and start troubleshooting :)
>>>
>>> Splitting a single length of Velo Lumino wire into two and adding spade 
>>> terminals would not work, right?
>>>
>>>
>>> Not sure what you mean by the above. The Velo Lumino wire that I have is 
>>> a single strand. One of the headlight companies includes a two stranded 
>>> 22ga wire that can be split into single strands. The insulation on that 
>>> wire is less durable and larger in diameter making it difficult to pull 
>>> through small holes. One strand is black and the other is white, bare wire 
>>> is copper. Is that the wire you’re referring to?
>>>
>>> The wire Velo Lumino sells is thin (22ga?) and has a tough but thin 
>>> insulation that is much smaller in diameter to hardware store wire or 
>>> anything else I’ve found. I find it easier to work with compared to the 
>>> coaxial wire Schmidt uses on their lights. 
>>>
>>> In the next few months I’ll be reconfiguring my lighting setup. I can 
>>> snap some photos and draw some diagrams if you’d like some more detailed 
>>> information on how it’s 

Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

I will take that as a no, the derailleur hanger was not checked. I would 
make sure that the derailleur hanger was straight.

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:53:07 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both new 
> parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>
> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur were 
> good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built the 
> bike in 2009. 
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>> hanger is straight?
>>
>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
>>> Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
 coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
 the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 

 Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
 .  

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 .

>>>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Caroline Golum]

Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both new 
parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 

The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur were 
good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built the 
bike in 2009. 

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur hanger 
> is straight?
>
> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
>> Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
>>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>>
>>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>>> .  
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/665b64a1-dea4-47b8-8417-d2b1ce26392bn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur hanger 
is straight?

Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. Clutch 
> RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>
> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
> wrote:
>
>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>
>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>> .  
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/665b64a1-dea4-47b8-8417-d2b1ce26392bn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[Caroline Golum]

I love this! Just added me + the Betty, excited to see who else in NYC is 
rocking a Riv <3

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 12:32:53 AM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:

> Almost 200 riders on the map now, and quite a few lovely photos of some 
> fine Rivs around the world.
>
> See the top of the thread if you want to add a pin.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Wednesday, May 10, 2023 at 12:07:35 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> Just a reminder on this map if you haven't gone through the thread: You 
>> don't need to put your specific address if you'd rather not. A random 
>> address in your city or town, or a cross street nearby is enough.
>>
>> Also, you can add a photo of your bike if you wish. We all love to see 
>> the cool bikes about which we are so passionate!
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 9, 2023 at 4:07:26 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> Bump on this for those who may have missed it and want to add a pin to 
>>> the map. See the top of the thread for instructions.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 6:20:12 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>>>
 I've added Rivendell Dealers to the Riv Rider's Map, and these icons 
 are in blue. I used the addresses found on the Riv website, but I'm not 
 sure if all of these dealers are still dealers or even in business.

 If anyone knows what I don't, let me know and I'll update the map.

 Cheers, John

 On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 5:59:52 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:

> Ha, Ray! That's a brilliant idea per Keith's caution about using your 
> specific address. 
>
> Thanks, Patrick. I'm working on it.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 11:38:02 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I like this idea. Please do add this feature.
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 24, 2023 at 7:45 PM John Rinker  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm playing with the idea of riders being able to add a photo of 
>>> their bike such that when one clicks on a map pin not only do you get 
>>> info 
>>> in the sidebar but also an image of a beautiful bicycle. (You can check 
>>> out 
>>> the pin I added at RBW as an example)
>>>
>>> Could be a fun addition. Of course, anyone who has more than one Riv 
>>> would have to make a choice. 
>>>
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 9:05:38 AM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:
>>>
 Good idea! I found the street address of my nearest post office and 
 changed my answer to that. It's close enough, and if any bike thieves 
 go 
 there, they'll be very, very, confused.

 On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 10:05:08 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:

> This is great.  Thanks for putting it together! 
>  I have couple of suggestions, more for the participant 
> pi-droppers than for John:
>
> 1)  Please be cautious and think twice about listing your actual 
> home address.  Especially if you live somewhere like Denver or 
> Oakland, 
> where bike theft is a major industry.  Thieves could use this info to 
> stake-out and target your place.
>
> 2)  it would be great to list the model(s) and size(s) of bikes 
> you own.  So many times I wish I could have test-ridden something, 
> but 
> didn't know how to find an example nearby.  This could really help.
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 5:33:44 PM UTC-6 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> The map is growing nicely! Got riders in Oceania and Europe on 
>> the map! Still awaiting the first rider in Sri Lanka to pop up.
>>
>> If you've added yourself, to the map please note that you can 
>> edit your responses in case you...I don't know...get a new bike? 
>> Change 
>> your riding style? Misspelled your name? Move from Arizona to 
>> Babylonia? 
>>
>> To do this, simply click on the 'Riv Rider Registration' and you 
>> can choose to 'Edit your response.' 
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:59:58 PM UTC-8 John Rinker 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The Map of Riv Riders is ready!* Thanks to Dave's example of the 
>>> 'Unicycle Community Map' I've put together a similar interactive 
>>> map that 
>>> Riv Riders can now populate with your location. 
>>>
>>> As mentioned, the purpose of this map is to help Riv riders find 
>>> each other, connect and plan rides.
>>>
>>> Here's a link to the site:
>>>
>>> Map of Rivendell Riders 
>>> 
>>>
>>> There is a Google form registration that, once completed and 
>>> manually updated by me, will put a pin of your location on the 

Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Eliot Balogh]

That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. Clutch
RD ? New rings ? New chain ?

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum 
wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc.
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd
> in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2
> .
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Caroline Golum]

Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 

Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd 
in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
. 

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[RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[RichS]

Kai,

My compliments on your Clem! Your portfolio of images really displays the 
Clems versatility, and I might add, your creativity. An ideal bike for 
NY/Brooklyn terrain.
The adjustable bottom bracket is pretty cool too:-)

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:16:23 PM UTC-4 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY wrote:

>
> Many photos of many states of Clem H, all gravel ready- 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uxqm63W2nB5scvmg7
> -Kai
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 4:06:54 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> [image: PXL_20230606_164339003.jpg]
>>
>> This thread needs less opinions and more inpirational photos of Gravel 
>> Clems. Just my opinion. :P 
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 12:02:41 PM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not going to provide specific tire recommendations, but I ride 
>>> "gravel" and single-track quiet a bit on my Roadini. I still remember that 
>>> time in the 1990s when I was riding with Bridgestone-sponsored cyclist Eric 
>>> House, and we all showed up in the East Bay proud of ourselves for riding 
>>> road bikes on a Grant ride. Grant showed up on a fixie with 35mm tires and 
>>> proceeded to outride us all on and off road. 
>>>
>>> A few principles:
>>>
>>>- The lighter the rider, the smaller the tire you can get away with. 
>>>At 140 pounds, I can ride fire roads with 25mm tires (or even 23, back 
>>> when 
>>>Michelin 23s were $10/pop!)
>>>- Tread or no tread doesn't matter as much as rider skill and speed.
>>>- Rider skill cannot be disentangled from bike fit. If the bike 
>>>doesn't fit, you will find stuff scary that you can actually ride if the 
>>>bike fit. I once accidentally raised my seat too high and discovered 
>>> that 
>>>stuff I could easily ride suddenly became hard!
>>>- The longer the ride and the steeper the climb, the more important 
>>>weight becomes. I can ride big heavy tires if I'm only going to go 
>>> downhill 
>>>because a car did most of the work. But if I have to do a lot of 
>>> climbing 
>>>(some of which turns into hiking inevitably if you ride in mountainous 
>>>areas), the lighter the bike the better off you are.
>>>- You can drop tire pressure far more than most tire pressure 
>>>calculators will tell you to. I can run 700x40 tires measuring 38mm at 
>>>25psi (the Rene Herse calculator will recommend 33psi) when I'm riding 
>>> off 
>>>pavement. On the pavement that same pressure will feel inefficient. I go 
>>> so 
>>>far as to carry a pressure gauge to drop tire pressure at the trail head 
>>>and pump up the tires when I transition off a dirt descent onto pavement 
>>>for the ride home.
>>>- Bigger tires affect handling - one reason I don't ride with as big 
>>>a tire as I can get away with is that you lose some agility. Frequently 
>>> I 
>>>find that being able to steer precisely and quickly offsets the 
>>> inability 
>>>to plow through some obstacle head on.
>>>
>>> What I do notice is that most people don't like to underbike. They will 
>>> make comments that I won't be able to do a ride on my 25mm tires and then 
>>> be all surprised when I show up and do the ride. But when I'm touring I'm 
>>> not going to bring 3 different bikes, so I just push the limits and go 
>>> slower and occasionally depend on pulling a spare tire out of my saddle bag 
>>> if a tire were to shred during a tour (which can happen even if you're not 
>>> riding off pavement).
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[christian poppell]

Hey Brizbarn,

Correct, tail light should be powered through the appropoite connector on 
the headlight. I believe the tail light has a lower power requirement than 
what the dynamo provides. 

I attached a diagram that is the same wiring scheme as my bike and what 
your message discribes, its easier for me to understand if I draw it than 
to write it out (electrical peeps, forgive me for the + and -). Sounds like 
what you described would work though! You can pull those little red caps 
off the ring terminals (loop crimp) and use heat shrink for a cleaner look. 
The connections can be soldered or crimped in place. 

Christian
Phoenix, AZ


On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 4:45:37 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:

> Hey Christian and Matthew, thanks for the posts.  Wow, that frame routing 
> looks great Matthew, didn't realize you could go through the chain stay, 
> good work.  I'm planning something very similar, but not sure I'll go 
> through the frame.  B IQ-XS front light, B U, My, Mini (whatever it's 
> called) rear, with Shutter Precision hub. 
>
> Some follow up Christian:  My understanding is that you should not power a 
> rear light straight from the dynamo hub, but rather from the front light. 
> Not sure if that is what you meant.  My thought was to use the existing 
> spade connectors from front light (you can see in first pic), ground one of 
> those to the front rack, and run one strand of Velo Lumino thin wire to 
> rear light via the other spade connector.  Then connect it with a spade 
> connector to the rear light, and ground the rear light to the frame (via a 
> rack eyelet where I'll be mounting the light).  You said running two stands 
> of Velo Lumino wire is more straight forward, but do you think my plan 
> would work?
> [image: IMG_0129.JPG] 
> [image: IMG_0131.JPG]for reference: Left is Velo Lumino 22 wire. Right is 
> B double strand. If I need to run two strands of Velo L wire from front 
> to rear light, its not much thinner than running B double strand, just 
> more pliable and better insulated is my understanding.
> [image: IMG_0133.JPG]for reference in this pic: B double strand wire 
> with spade connectors, two spade terminals, a banana connector, a loop 
> crimp for grounding.
>
>
> On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 1:46:41 PM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:
>
>> Hey Matthew, 
>>
>> I’m replying on my phone so apologies in advance for any typos or 
>> non-standard formatting. 
>>
>> Running two wires to the taillight from the dynamo is probably the best 
>> and loner straightforward way to do it. It’s a closed system and easy to 
>> track down any issues if they arise. 
>>
>> I’m not sure which model B light you have but you can certainly try 
>> grounding one side of the dynamo and one side of light to the fork and 
>> frame respectively. I’ve heard the anodizing on some higher quality 
>> cartridge bearing headsets (Chris King, etc) can prevent the continuity 
>> between the fork and the frame. In the past folks have suggested removing 
>> the anodization around the neck of the headset cup to allow current to pass 
>> through. It’s easy to check for continuity between frame and fork; set a 
>> multimeter to resistance (ohms) and touch one probe to bare metal on the 
>> fork, and the other probe to bare metal on the frame (eyelet or dropout 
>> works well). If the needle or number is close or on zero you shouldn’t have 
>> a problem. If there’s no change in reading then you don’t have continuity, 
>> probe around and start troubleshooting :)
>>
>> Splitting a single length of Velo Lumino wire into two and adding spade 
>> terminals would not work, right?
>>
>>
>> Not sure what you mean by the above. The Velo Lumino wire that I have is 
>> a single strand. One of the headlight companies includes a two stranded 
>> 22ga wire that can be split into single strands. The insulation on that 
>> wire is less durable and larger in diameter making it difficult to pull 
>> through small holes. One strand is black and the other is white, bare wire 
>> is copper. Is that the wire you’re referring to?
>>
>> The wire Velo Lumino sells is thin (22ga?) and has a tough but thin 
>> insulation that is much smaller in diameter to hardware store wire or 
>> anything else I’ve found. I find it easier to work with compared to the 
>> coaxial wire Schmidt uses on their lights. 
>>
>> In the next few months I’ll be reconfiguring my lighting setup. I can 
>> snap some photos and draw some diagrams if you’d like some more detailed 
>> information on how it’s configured. 
>>
>> Hope that’s helpful! 
>>
>> Christian 
>> Phoenix, AZ 
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2023, at 15:08, brizbarn  wrote:
>>
>> Christian, thanks for the pics and example.  I have some of the Velo 
>> Lumino wire.  With a a B light, would I need to run two wires to a rear 
>> B light?  Or do something similar to what you show in your pics, 
>> grounding to the frame on both the headlight and taillight ends, and just 
>> running one length of wire to the 

[RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[Piaw Na]

11s MTB is the same spacing as 10s Road. You won't have any trouble. I've 
used it even on Duraace 7700 rear hubs from 2004!

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 8:08:17 AM UTC-7 Stephanie A. wrote:

> Thanks, all, and sorry for the light thread hijack. I'm planning on 
> installing the Deore M5100 11-51t cassette. Hopefully it works, but If I 
> end up needing to buy a new wheel that's still easier (and cheaper, since 
> parts for the spouse's bike have to be strong--6' 3" and 300+ lbs) than 
> converting to a 2x. 
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:06:17 PM UTC-4 abraham nussbaum wrote:
>
>> I'm definitely UNO-curious.
>>
>> In the meantime, I've been running the Microshift 11 speed for over a 
>> year, in both friction and index mode. It's awesome. I run a 1 x 11 and 
>> it's been flawless after you dial in the fit bolt.
>>
>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 5:43:41 PM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>
>>> I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more 
>>> gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette 
>>> and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 6:12:15 PM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hey Max,

 I saw the video where Russ announced this, and was also curious as I've 
 got an 11sp Cassette in my parts bin with no current home. 

 I do think you need an 11sp chain, as the chain width and cassette 
 spacing work most natively together. You may be able to get away with a 
 10sp chain depending on the company, so if you've got one it could be 
 worth 
 a try. 

 Primary difference between the Microshift and the Uno is the ratchet. 
 I've got the microshift 11sp shifter on my gevanalle brifters and it works 
 fine in index but the friction setting is a little frustrating without the 
 ratchet. That paired with the fact that the Uno looks classy makes me feel 
 like you still made the right call... especially for a Riv.

 Hope that's helpful!

 - Drew

 On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 2:51:40 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Has anyone tried the UNO? 
>
> If you don't know what I'm talking about check out this video from 
> Russ at The Path Less Pedaled. 
>  The shifter is a 
> collaboration between Soma, DiaCompe and Russ.  It's a friction shifter 
> that should take anything you throw at it including 11 or 12 speed, MTB 
> or 
> Road drivetrains. 
>
> I got to it because I'm considering a 1x set up on one of my bikes and 
> I want maximum flexibility and compatibility to allow me to use a clutch 
> and a SRAM RD if I choose to.
>
> Also, I've been fighting a CX-70 FD paired with White Industries 2x9 
> setup on my Hunqapillar. No matter how much I adjust it or how much I 
> trim, 
> certain combinations (of the ones I actually use) always have some rub. 
> I'm 
> still trying to get my hands on an IRD Sub-C FD which might allow me to 
> keep the current setup (I love the gearing I have with 42/24 chainrings 
> and 
> a 11-40 cassette) but I might want to switch things up.
>
> Long story short I bit the bullet and got an UNO. It feels really 
> solid and the ratchet sounds great. Also take a look, the thing is 
> massive 
> compared to a Silver2:
>
> [image: IMG_0495.jpeg]
>
> For my 1x I'm considering using a Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-40 
> cassette that I already have in my parts box. And I'll probably pair that 
> with a SRAM GX 10-Speed RD.
>
> The question for the group is: do I need to use an 11 speed chain 
> given the 11 speed cassette?
>
> Oh, and now I'm wondering, is the UNO just a fancy version of this 
> Microshift shifter 
>  
> which 
> I hadn't seen but just found on Crust's website?
>
> Cheers,
> Max in rainy Boston
>
> PS. They are available here from Soma 
> 
>  for 
> a pretty penny if you want to get one.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[Stephanie A.]

Thanks, all, and sorry for the light thread hijack. I'm planning on 
installing the Deore M5100 11-51t cassette. Hopefully it works, but If I 
end up needing to buy a new wheel that's still easier (and cheaper, since 
parts for the spouse's bike have to be strong--6' 3" and 300+ lbs) than 
converting to a 2x. 

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:06:17 PM UTC-4 abraham nussbaum wrote:

> I'm definitely UNO-curious.
>
> In the meantime, I've been running the Microshift 11 speed for over a 
> year, in both friction and index mode. It's awesome. I run a 1 x 11 and 
> it's been flawless after you dial in the fit bolt.
>
> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 5:43:41 PM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:
>
>> I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more 
>> gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette 
>> and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 6:12:15 PM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Max,
>>>
>>> I saw the video where Russ announced this, and was also curious as I've 
>>> got an 11sp Cassette in my parts bin with no current home. 
>>>
>>> I do think you need an 11sp chain, as the chain width and cassette 
>>> spacing work most natively together. You may be able to get away with a 
>>> 10sp chain depending on the company, so if you've got one it could be worth 
>>> a try. 
>>>
>>> Primary difference between the Microshift and the Uno is the ratchet. 
>>> I've got the microshift 11sp shifter on my gevanalle brifters and it works 
>>> fine in index but the friction setting is a little frustrating without the 
>>> ratchet. That paired with the fact that the Uno looks classy makes me feel 
>>> like you still made the right call... especially for a Riv.
>>>
>>> Hope that's helpful!
>>>
>>> - Drew
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 2:51:40 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 Has anyone tried the UNO? 

 If you don't know what I'm talking about check out this video from 
 Russ at The Path Less Pedaled. 
  The shifter is a 
 collaboration between Soma, DiaCompe and Russ.  It's a friction shifter 
 that should take anything you throw at it including 11 or 12 speed, MTB or 
 Road drivetrains. 

 I got to it because I'm considering a 1x set up on one of my bikes and 
 I want maximum flexibility and compatibility to allow me to use a clutch 
 and a SRAM RD if I choose to.

 Also, I've been fighting a CX-70 FD paired with White Industries 2x9 
 setup on my Hunqapillar. No matter how much I adjust it or how much I 
 trim, 
 certain combinations (of the ones I actually use) always have some rub. 
 I'm 
 still trying to get my hands on an IRD Sub-C FD which might allow me to 
 keep the current setup (I love the gearing I have with 42/24 chainrings 
 and 
 a 11-40 cassette) but I might want to switch things up.

 Long story short I bit the bullet and got an UNO. It feels really solid 
 and the ratchet sounds great. Also take a look, the thing is massive 
 compared to a Silver2:

 [image: IMG_0495.jpeg]

 For my 1x I'm considering using a Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-40 
 cassette that I already have in my parts box. And I'll probably pair that 
 with a SRAM GX 10-Speed RD.

 The question for the group is: do I need to use an 11 speed chain given 
 the 11 speed cassette?

 Oh, and now I'm wondering, is the UNO just a fancy version of this 
 Microshift shifter 
  
 which 
 I hadn't seen but just found on Crust's website?

 Cheers,
 Max in rainy Boston

 PS. They are available here from Soma 
 
  for 
 a pretty penny if you want to get one.




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Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Stephanie A.]

I'd also be in for a couple!

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:03:12 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks, Ted, got you down for a couple. 
>
> Haven't heard back from my contact in the UK, will follow up with everyone 
> when I do. 
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:52:43 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my 
>> email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:
>>
>>> Count me in for a couple!
>>>
>>> P. W.
>>> ~
>>> (917) 514-2207
>>> ~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing clamps. 
>>> The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be interested in 
>>> importing some for other cyclists. 
>>>
>>> I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell. 
>>>
>>> The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. They're 
>>> made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, two washers 
>>> and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on old British 
>>> race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well. 
>>>
>>> If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some 
>>> nice clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you need 
>>> to clamp your housing. 
>>>
>>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>>
>>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>>>
>>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/96573840-390a-4693-bc1c-585d0696f1ccn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7CC75FBD-9501-425F-B3B1-D38533FBC046%40gmail.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Eric Marth]

Thanks, Ted, got you down for a couple. 

Haven't heard back from my contact in the UK, will follow up with everyone 
when I do. 

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:52:43 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my 
> email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:
>
>> Count me in for a couple!
>>
>> P. W.
>> ~
>> (917) 514-2207
>> ~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>> Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing clamps. 
>> The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be interested in 
>> importing some for other cyclists. 
>>
>> I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell. 
>>
>> The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. They're 
>> made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, two washers 
>> and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on old British 
>> race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well. 
>>
>> If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some 
>> nice clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you need 
>> to clamp your housing. 
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>>
>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/96573840-390a-4693-bc1c-585d0696f1ccn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7CC75FBD-9501-425F-B3B1-D38533FBC046%40gmail.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Ted W]

Thanks for the info, Garth! So, apologies about the confusion in my last
email. I am on a bike tour this week and trying to do everything on my
phone leads to funny wording sometimes, not to mention the difficulty
constructing coherent thoughts with the brain fog from all day riding. I
did not mean to say they were “mostly identical”, you are correct, there is
quite a difference. However, considering that I needed a longer set back
seat post and very long stem on the LHT, the extra room should be a
welcomed difference and the end result of the fit should be mostly
identical using normal-ish parts (standard set back and reasonable length
stem). I was able to use the LHT as a reference for how the Appa would fit
in relation to something I had experience with, despite their differences
and that’s teLly what I was trying to figure out. The last thing I wanted
to do was wind up with something that was severally out of whack to where I
wouldn’t enjoy such an otherwise lovely bike.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 8:48 AM Garth  wrote:

> Ted, Origin8 makes a "Pro Fit"  zero setback 26.8 silver seatpost. (365
> Cycles sells them) I don't know about the quality of the hardware. I'm
> mainly referring to the bolts and the length of the clamp itself as to how
> long it holds the rails. Kalloy for example, sucks !  Nitto and Thomson
> make them in 26.8 for more money but have proper clamps and stout bolts.
> This will allow you to get your saddle positioned over the BB where you
> need it. *This positioning comes first*, before any consideration of
> reach to the bars.
>
> By the way, the STA and HTA are anything but nearly identical ! The
> difference between 71.5d and 73d in seat angle = appx. 18mm further back of
> the seat tube at saddle height. The 72d and 71d HTA means the Appa bars
> don't move back as much as they do with the shallower LHT. This is where
> when comparing frames you must look at everything in relation with
> everything else. I'm assuming these two frames :
>
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa4,5f5e45837fbbda0017192063
>
> You can input things here https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ if you really want
> to see how things change. It's sorta geeky, but you catch on how it works.
> It beats buying the wrong frame though.
>
> I've edited this so much my heads spinning so forgive me if it's a bit
> scattered !
>
> --
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> 
> .
>
-- 
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Garth]

Ted, Origin8 makes a "Pro Fit"  zero setback 26.8 silver seatpost. (365 
Cycles sells them) I don't know about the quality of the hardware. I'm 
mainly referring to the bolts and the length of the clamp itself as to how 
long it holds the rails. Kalloy for example, sucks !  Nitto and Thomson 
make them in 26.8 for more money but have proper clamps and stout bolts. 
This will allow you to get your saddle positioned over the BB where you 
need it. *This positioning comes first*, before any consideration of reach 
to the bars. 

By the way, the STA and HTA are anything but nearly identical ! The 
difference between 71.5d and 73d in seat angle = appx. 18mm further back of 
the seat tube at saddle height. The 72d and 71d HTA means the Appa bars 
don't move back as much as they do with the shallower LHT. This is where 
when comparing frames you must look at everything in relation with 
everything else. I'm assuming these two frames : 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa4,5f5e45837fbbda0017192063

You can input things here https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ if you really want 
to see how things change. It's sorta geeky, but you catch on how it works. 
It beats buying the wrong frame though. 

I've edited this so much my heads spinning so forgive me if it's a bit 
scattered !

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Re: [RBW] I spy a yellow Platypus

[Elton Lance]

Love the white Rivet saddle.  Looks perfect on the bike!

Elton Lance
Vero Beach, FL





> On Jun 8, 2023, at 7:14 AM, Roberta  wrote:
> 
> I love it. Like riding on sunshine. 
> 
> Like Leah, you and bike are color coordinated. And, you have the BEST reason 
> for being absent from social media. 
> 
> Roberta 
> 
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:06:52 PM UTC-4 sarahlik...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Yes, this is the dream realized Yellow Platypus! And I have been very very 
>> absent from social media because I cannot stop riding this bike!
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>>> Yes! Good eye, Max! And Ryan, good memory! My RivSister (we met on 
>>> Instagram) wanted a yellow Platy and we have been planning and dreaming for 
>>> weeks, and here it finally is. I will start a new thread about her bike 
>>> (she asked me to because she isn’t in love with technology) tonight, 
>>> probably late. She’s out riding and is on West Coast time and I’m in 
>>> Eastern, so there’s a little delay. Anyway, as soon as she answers the 
>>> questions I have and hands me the photos she wants, I’ll be back with the 
>>> details. I’m so happy for her! 
>>> Leah
>>> 
>>> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 4:26:41 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
 Oooh nice! I feel like Leah mentioned someone getting a Platypus and 
 wanting to paint it yellow fairly recently...within the last 6 months or 
 so. 
 
 On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 2:23:24 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
> Did you see the yellow platy on Insta? OMG!
> 
> Posting here for those without social media accounts
> 
> Max
> 
> 
> 
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> .
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>  
> .

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[RBW] Re: I spy a yellow Platypus

[Roberta]

I love it. Like riding on sunshine. 

Like Leah, you and bike are color coordinated. And, you have the BEST 
reason for being absent from social media. 

Roberta 

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 8:06:52 PM UTC-4 sarahlik...@gmail.com wrote:

> Yes, this is the dream realized Yellow Platypus! And I have been very very 
> absent from social media because I cannot stop riding this bike!
>
>
> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
>> Yes! Good eye, Max! And Ryan, good memory! My RivSister (we met on 
>> Instagram) wanted a yellow Platy and we have been planning and dreaming for 
>> weeks, and here it finally is. I will start a new thread about her bike 
>> (she asked me to because she isn’t in love with technology) tonight, 
>> probably late. She’s out riding and is on West Coast time and I’m in 
>> Eastern, so there’s a little delay. Anyway, as soon as she answers the 
>> questions I have and hands me the photos she wants, I’ll be back with the 
>> details. I’m so happy for her! 
>> Leah
>>
>> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 4:26:41 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> Oooh nice! I feel like Leah mentioned someone getting a Platypus and 
>>> wanting to paint it yellow fairly recently...within the last 6 months or 
>>> so. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 2:23:24 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 Did you see the yellow platy on Insta? OMG!

 Posting here for those without social media accounts

 Max
 [image: 351013416_54772725404_237773184394501808_n.jpg]

>>>

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