date:20240320

[RBW] Re: FS: Cycling Style, Road and Mountain Tires, Bars, and WomensClip-in Shoes

2024-03-20 Thread Peter Adler

I PMed you, but the photos are locked behind Google Photos' "ask for 
individual access" door. If you don't want to give 50-100 potential 
purchasers permission to see them one at a time, you might want to unlock 
the door for everybody.

Peter Adler
Berkeley, California

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 8:52:22 PM UTC-7 bei...@gmail.com wrote:

> Shipping from Colorado to Continental US are some riding clothes, various 
> tires, bars and barely used womens Giro cycling shoes. All prices include 
> shipping. Payment by venmo, zelle, or last option paypal friends and 
> family. Thanks!
>
> *Photos here 
> *
> .
>
> Osloh Lane *Jean* 
> 
>  *$50 
> includes shipping*: *34W 32L* (currently sold out), Fits slim for my 
> larger than average legs ‘n glutes. Some wearing in the seat from my brooks 
> C17, missing right rear button, but very functional commuter or around town 
> jeans with great pockets.
>
> J n G Cycling Wear *Touring Shorts* 
> , Large, Black:* 
> $25 includes shipping*. Fit me slightly too small, but probably a true 
> Large for someone with more of a slim/straight fit. 
>
> J n G Cyclingwear *Wind Jacket* 
> , Large, black: 
> *$30 
> includes shipping.* I’m usually a true large, but this fits like an XL.  
>
> *Women’s Giro Cadet Cycling Shoe 
> ,
>  
> *Size 41 White, *$140 includes shipping- *My wife used a few times after 
> buying new, but we’ve had two kids in two years and interest in clipping in 
> has been lost!
>
> *Jones H-Bar 2.5 Rise 
> * *$70 includes 
> shipping*
>
> *Porteur Bar 22.2 
>  
> $35 
> includes shipping*- used on an ‘90s MTB conversion that was short lived
>
> *Specialized Roubaix Pro Tire 30mm $50 for both, includes shipping *bought 
> from a friend, but didn’t fit on my current road-bike. (No roadini *yet*!). 
>
>
> *Soma Shikoro 42’s $100 for both 
> , 
> includes shipping *came stock on my Platypus and I prefer bigger tires.
>
> *Honcho Light n Supple 2.6 
> 
>  
> $50 includes shipping *– Setup tubeless briefly as a rear tire, but ended 
> up running my mountain bike with a 2.6 up front and 2.4 in the rear. 
> *Honcho Light n Supple 2.4 
> 
>  
> $65 includes shipping- *Brand new, you save taxes and shipping.
>
> Again, *photos here 
> .
>  *
>
> - Christian in Boulder, Colorado
>

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[RBW] WTB: Bosco and JJJ Bars

2024-03-20 Thread Collin A

Heyo,

Looking to do a little cockpit refinement before touring season kicks off 
and was hoping to get my hands on some well-loved (but not abused) 
handlebars to help me achieve that without breaking the bank. Specifically 
I am looking for:

   1. 52 cm heat treated Bosco bars
   2. Sycip JJJ or VO Granola bars, either in silver would be ideal

If you've got some gathering dust, let me know and lets chat :)

Happy Belated Equinox!
Collin in Berkeley

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[RBW] FS: Cycling Style, Road and Mountain Tires, Bars, and WomensClip-in Shoes

2024-03-20 Thread Christian B-H

Shipping from Colorado to Continental US are some riding clothes, various
tires, bars and barely used womens Giro cycling shoes. All prices include
shipping. Payment by venmo, zelle, or last option paypal friends and
family. Thanks!

*Photos here
*
.

Osloh Lane *Jean*

*$50
includes shipping*: *34W 32L* (currently sold out), Fits slim for my larger
than average legs ‘n glutes. Some wearing in the seat from my brooks C17,
missing right rear button, but very functional commuter or around town
jeans with great pockets.

J n G Cycling Wear *Touring Shorts*
, Large, Black:*
$25 includes shipping*. Fit me slightly too small, but probably a true
Large for someone with more of a slim/straight fit.

J n G Cyclingwear *Wind Jacket*
, Large, black: *$30
includes shipping.* I’m usually a true large, but this fits like an XL.

*Women’s Giro Cadet Cycling Shoe
,

*Size 41 White, *$140 includes shipping- *My wife used a few times after
buying new, but we’ve had two kids in two years and interest in clipping in
has been lost!

*Jones H-Bar 2.5 Rise
* *$70 includes
shipping*

*Porteur Bar 22.2

$35
includes shipping*- used on an ‘90s MTB conversion that was short lived

*Specialized Roubaix Pro Tire 30mm $50 for both, includes shipping *bought
from a friend, but didn’t fit on my current road-bike. (No roadini *yet*!).

*Soma Shikoro 42’s $100 for both
,
includes shipping *came stock on my Platypus and I prefer bigger tires.

*Honcho Light n Supple 2.6

$50 includes shipping *– Setup tubeless briefly as a rear tire, but ended
up running my mountain bike with a 2.6 up front and 2.4 in the rear.
*Honcho Light n Supple 2.4

$65 includes shipping- *Brand new, you save taxes and shipping.

Again, *photos here
.
*

- Christian in Boulder, Colorado

[RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Collin A

SON is supposed to be releasing a light that has a charger and has a "high
beam" function in "Spring 2024"
Update: New version of the Edelux USB-FL – SON Hub Dynamos (nabendynamo.de)

I'll be eager to try it out when it gets released...

Collin in Berkeley

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 6:10:14 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
wrote:

I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I wait
for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got back
from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a newly
minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I was
welcomed with Second Winter.

Michigan is over here, doing me dirty.

I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a lot
of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least you
could do!

I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will
fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the
tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m
considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing
Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road
ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is
a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could,
because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires,
should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than
anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s.
What’s the consensus?

Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked
it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need
a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from
bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know
Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and
he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing
about their front racks?

Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build,
but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to
have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do
just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people
using to charge phones on long rides away from home?

I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in Philly
talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. Here’s a
sneak peek.

And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s experiences
and points of view!
Leah

Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread DavidP

Jumping on the "48s are fine" bandwagon: I have a roadish "gravel" bike 
with 650x48s (22mm inner width rims, Panaracer Pari-Moto rear, RH Juniper 
Ridge front) - it's plenty quick on pavement despite not being a dedicated 
paved road bike. At ~160lbs, I run 30psi.

The 650b wheels on the 50cm Platypus will reduce the gyroscopic effect when 
compared with a 700x48 tire, and you get you back some of the "nimbleness" 
Patrick mentioned that can be lost with wider tires. You may notice the 
650x48 handles more nimbly than your 700x42 Platypus (the reduced wheelbase 
will have an effect as well).

-Dave
On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 7:05:37 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> To take into account George's experience: I do use widish rims for the 
> 48s/50s: 27 mm IW Velocity Blunt SS's. But at 20 the Soma SV SLs handle 
> wonderfully on pavement. I agree that as the tires get fatter and the 
> pressures lower, small pressure differences make a big difference in 
> handling. 
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 5:03 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than 
>> a 42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure 
>> 50 on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter 
>> rider can use less.
>>
>> Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily 
>> affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the 
>> "nimbleness" of handling.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>
>>> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm 
>>> will be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph 
>>> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on 
>>> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which 
>>> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same 
>>> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King 
>>> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me. 
>>>
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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Re: [RBW] How do I know when a saddle fits?

2024-03-20 Thread rltilley

I also feel that if I did not think about my saddle or anything that touches it during a ride then I have a successful saddle fit. I ride with no padded shorts so I can tell when a saddle doesn’t feel right.On my saddles that fit best I can feel pressure on my sit bones but nowhere else. My understanding is that saddles with more cushion are actually worse for comfort since you sink into them and that crushes parts that should not be crushed. When you find a saddle that works be sure to buy a supply of them because manufacturers tend to keep changing things and what works for you may be gone when you need a replacement.Robert TilleySan Diego, CASent from my iPhoneOn Mar 20, 2024, at 4:18 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:I'm sorry to hear that, but I am confident that you can find a solution. IME, saddle comfort depends as much on saddle setup -- height, setback, tilt -- and on body position when your ride -- thus bar shape and position -- as it does on saddle shape.My own test is, "did I think about the saddle during my ride?" If I don't think about it on a ride of typical length, then I judge the saddle a success. Of course, what "disappears" for 20 or 30 miles may come back with a vengeance after 50 or 100 miles, so one has to take into account all of one's riding.Perhaps you might consider getting a professional bike fit? Really, if I were in your situation, I'd consider this money well spent.Good luck, and let us know what happens.Patrick "Original Flites and only original Flites" MooreOn Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 2:00 PM Emily Guise wrote:Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C&O canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a saddle that won't hurt. I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it becomes uncomfortable? I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for in the next saddle I try out. Thanks!

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-- Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum---Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services---When thou didst not, savage, know thine own meaning,But wouldst gabble like a thing most brutish,I endowed thy purposes with words that made them known.

Re: [RBW] How do I know when a saddle fits?

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore

I'm sorry to hear that, but I am confident that you can find a solution.
IME, saddle comfort depends as much on saddle setup -- height, setback,
tilt -- and on body position when your ride -- thus bar shape and position
-- as it does on saddle shape.

My own test is, "did I think about the saddle during my ride?" If I don't
think about it on a ride of typical length, then I judge the saddle a
success. Of course, what "disappears" for 20 or 30 miles may come back with
a vengeance after 50 or 100 miles, so one has to take into account all of
one's riding.

Perhaps you might consider getting a professional bike fit? Really, if I
were in your situation, I'd consider this money well spent.

Good luck, and let us know what happens.

Patrick "Original Flites and only original Flites" Moore

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 2:00 PM Emily Guise  wrote:

> Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle
> that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended
> up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited
> my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C&O
> canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a
> saddle that won't hurt.
>
> I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic,
> cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of
> the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a
> central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for
> around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured.
>
> It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable
> long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask
> the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it
> love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the
> ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it
> becomes uncomfortable?
>
> I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for
> in the next saddle I try out. Thanks!
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8d572c1-c108-4cf3-87c4-cd982950a2dan%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore

To take into account George's experience: I do use widish rims for the
48s/50s: 27 mm IW Velocity Blunt SS's. But at 20 the Soma SV SLs handle
wonderfully on pavement. I agree that as the tires get fatter and the
pressures lower, small pressure differences make a big difference in
handling.

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 5:03 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than
> a 42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure
> 50 on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter
> rider can use less.
>
> Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily
> affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the
> "nimbleness" of handling.
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>
>> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm
>> will be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph
>> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on
>> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which
>> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same
>> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King
>> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me.
>>
>
>

-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore

Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than a
42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure 50
on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter rider
can use less.

Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily
affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the
"nimbleness" of handling.

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm will
> be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph
> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on
> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which
> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same
> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King
> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me.
>

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[RBW] Re: How do I know when a saddle fits?

2024-03-20 Thread George Schick

Oh boy. There are so many variables that go into good saddle fit and 
comfort that I'm not sure where to begin.  One has to do with the type of 
shorts (or other garbs) which you wear to ride.  Many on this blog have 
talked about the thinner the padding in their shorts the more comfy the 
ride.  Then again, there is the matter of riding position.  If you are 
riding in a more upright position on a bike with bars that reach way back 
you will likely put more pressure and possibly friction on your groin area 
causing discomfort.  There are those who seem to like riding that way - 
kinda like a rolling leg press machine, putting lots and lots of pressure 
on the pedals with every stroke in a very high gear, maybe that's how they 
get by with it - but that's not normative with everyone.  And, of course, 
there's always the usually undiscussed issue of just how sensitive those 
lower bones (ischial tuberosity tissues}, and other skin and muscle tissues 
play a part. 

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 3:00:24 PM UTC-5 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle 
> that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended 
> up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited 
> my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C&O 
> canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a 
> saddle that won't hurt. 
>
> I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, 
> cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of 
> the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a 
> central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for 
> around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. 
>
> It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable 
> long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask 
> the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it 
> love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the 
> ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it 
> becomes uncomfortable? 
>
> I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for 
> in the next saddle I try out. Thanks! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] How do I know when a saddle fits?

2024-03-20 Thread Emily Guise

Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle
that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended
up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited
my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C&O
canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a
saddle that won't hurt.

I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic,
cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of
the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a
central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for
around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured.

It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable
long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask
the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it
love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the
ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it
becomes uncomfortable?

I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for
in the next saddle I try out. Thanks!

Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread George Schick

A few respondents to this thread have referred to "inflation" (and I don't 
mean these horrible price increases we're undergoing), J and Jay...maybe 
it's J&J...I used to take my truck to a transmission repair service by that 
name and they did a poor job of serving, but I digress.  Anyway, inflation 
and pressure matter a great deal.  I run 60mm Schwalbe Big Apple balloon 
tires on my Surly 1x1 and if I haven't ridden it for a while and the 
pressure gets down to 20 lbs or so they feel like I'm riding on wheels with 
foam pipe insulation glued to the rims; OTOH if I pump them up to 35 lbs 
(the range recommended on the tire sidewalls) they respond like an 
overinflated basketball that bounces 6ft. when dribbling.  IOW, it's good 
to experiment with various inflation pressures when making the decision 
whether or not a certain tire is a good or bad performer.  Having said 
that, if one rides primarily on smooth roads vs. gravel paths vs. off-road 
trails it would make sense to pick the tire with minimal tread (or smooth) 
for regular riding. 

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 2:15:34 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm will 
> be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph 
> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on 
> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which 
> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same 
> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King 
> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me. 
>
> There is no definitive answer on the strap, since it's about risk 
> tolerance, but with the higher load limit of the basket rack as well as the 
> fact that most of the structure is welded with just that little adjustable 
> bit at the bottom ... I would not run a strap with it. I don't think it 
> would fall into the front tire the same way as the small racks do when they 
> fail, plus it's less likely to fail in the first place. It's always a good 
> idea to occasionally check that all the rack fixing bolts are tight, in any 
> case. 
>
> Sorry to hear about Second Winter, as indeed the cherry blossoms are upon 
> us here in Vancouver! 
>
> On Wednesday 20 March 2024 at 12:00:48 UTC-7 JohnS wrote:
>
>> Will has Mark's alternate safety strap in this email news letter, scroll 
>> down to "Mark's safety cable". Looks like a good solution since the cable 
>> housing protects the bike frame from the cable.
>>
>>
>> https://us7.campaign-archive.com/?u=ad1569fa93a2ab2374ead2fde&id=279bef4181
>>
>> As far as 650B tires go, I recommend Rene Herse Babyshoe Pass 42mm width 
>> tire, extra light casing. They are great for mixed surface rides; road and 
>> hard packed gravel or cinder such as a rail trail. As mentioned already, 
>> they are not so good in mud where they can get squirmy and can loose 
>> traction. I have them on my Crust Lightening Bolt canti which is my bike 
>> for long rides and mixed surfaces. I have Gravel King SK tires on my gravel 
>> bike. They are a very good tire and I use that bike for more challenging 
>> gravel rides where the surface can be looser and the trails are more like 
>> mountain bike single track.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> JohnS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-4 J wrote:
>>
>>> You don't say which Gravel King model you are using, but I see in your 
>>> Philly post that you have Ultradynamico Cava tires on your bike. So maybe 
>>> you run the file tread GK? Anyhow, I rode through 2 sets of 700x42 Gravel 
>>> King SK on my old Sam Hillbourne before moving up to 700x50 which just 
>>> barely fit. I thought I'd notice a big difference but it turned out not to 
>>> be true, as long as I kept the air pressure up. I only have 650b bikes now, 
>>> and don't ride Gravel King SK after discovering the Rene Herse file tread 
>>> much smoother and faster "feeling". I've switched back and forth from 42 
>>> and 48mm RH file treads as well as 42 Gran Bois and have settled on 48mm RH 
>>> (Switchback Hill) which measures quite a bit over 48mm on my wheels. The 
>>> 42mm tires gave the perception that I was faster but the strava data did 
>>> not corroborate, and the 48mm have so much lovely float over gravel 
>>> compared to anything narrower or with tooth, I figured why bother? YMMV but 
>>> I think 48s won't be an issue. If my words sway you at all towards RH, just 
>>> keep in mind that they are not great in wet conditions with steep descents 
>>> combined with rim brakes. I learned this twice this fall, and kept RH 
>>> knobbies on until a few days ago. 
>>>
>>> mysterious J
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 11:42:19 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews 
 were among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various 
 "racing" tires and 2 extralight RH models. I

Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Jason Fuller

The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm will 
be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph 
difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on 
the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which 
necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same 
pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King 
is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me. 

There is no definitive answer on the strap, since it's about risk 
tolerance, but with the higher load limit of the basket rack as well as the 
fact that most of the structure is welded with just that little adjustable 
bit at the bottom ... I would not run a strap with it. I don't think it 
would fall into the front tire the same way as the small racks do when they 
fail, plus it's less likely to fail in the first place. It's always a good 
idea to occasionally check that all the rack fixing bolts are tight, in any 
case. 

Sorry to hear about Second Winter, as indeed the cherry blossoms are upon 
us here in Vancouver! 

On Wednesday 20 March 2024 at 12:00:48 UTC-7 JohnS wrote:

> Will has Mark's alternate safety strap in this email news letter, scroll 
> down to "Mark's safety cable". Looks like a good solution since the cable 
> housing protects the bike frame from the cable.
>
> https://us7.campaign-archive.com/?u=ad1569fa93a2ab2374ead2fde&id=279bef4181
>
> As far as 650B tires go, I recommend Rene Herse Babyshoe Pass 42mm width 
> tire, extra light casing. They are great for mixed surface rides; road and 
> hard packed gravel or cinder such as a rail trail. As mentioned already, 
> they are not so good in mud where they can get squirmy and can loose 
> traction. I have them on my Crust Lightening Bolt canti which is my bike 
> for long rides and mixed surfaces. I have Gravel King SK tires on my gravel 
> bike. They are a very good tire and I use that bike for more challenging 
> gravel rides where the surface can be looser and the trails are more like 
> mountain bike single track.
>
> Good luck,
> JohnS
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-4 J wrote:
>
>> You don't say which Gravel King model you are using, but I see in your 
>> Philly post that you have Ultradynamico Cava tires on your bike. So maybe 
>> you run the file tread GK? Anyhow, I rode through 2 sets of 700x42 Gravel 
>> King SK on my old Sam Hillbourne before moving up to 700x50 which just 
>> barely fit. I thought I'd notice a big difference but it turned out not to 
>> be true, as long as I kept the air pressure up. I only have 650b bikes now, 
>> and don't ride Gravel King SK after discovering the Rene Herse file tread 
>> much smoother and faster "feeling". I've switched back and forth from 42 
>> and 48mm RH file treads as well as 42 Gran Bois and have settled on 48mm RH 
>> (Switchback Hill) which measures quite a bit over 48mm on my wheels. The 
>> 42mm tires gave the perception that I was faster but the strava data did 
>> not corroborate, and the 48mm have so much lovely float over gravel 
>> compared to anything narrower or with tooth, I figured why bother? YMMV but 
>> I think 48s won't be an issue. If my words sway you at all towards RH, just 
>> keep in mind that they are not great in wet conditions with steep descents 
>> combined with rim brakes. I learned this twice this fall, and kept RH 
>> knobbies on until a few days ago. 
>>
>> mysterious J
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 11:42:19 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews 
>>> were among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various 
>>> "racing" tires and 2 extralight RH models. I'd say that the right 48 mm 
>>> tire will roll plenty fast. 
>>>
>>> I've not used any Gravel Kings.
>>>
>>> Patrick "it's not my tires that make me slow" Moore
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:10 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 ... Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my 
 other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles 
 total. 
 I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are 
 fat 
 enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride 
 again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will 
 cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?

>>>

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread JohnS

Will has Mark's alternate safety strap in this email news letter, scroll 
down to "Mark's safety cable". Looks like a good solution since the cable 
housing protects the bike frame from the cable.

https://us7.campaign-archive.com/?u=ad1569fa93a2ab2374ead2fde&id=279bef4181

As far as 650B tires go, I recommend Rene Herse Babyshoe Pass 42mm width 
tire, extra light casing. They are great for mixed surface rides; road and 
hard packed gravel or cinder such as a rail trail. As mentioned already, 
they are not so good in mud where they can get squirmy and can loose 
traction. I have them on my Crust Lightening Bolt canti which is my bike 
for long rides and mixed surfaces. I have Gravel King SK tires on my gravel 
bike. They are a very good tire and I use that bike for more challenging 
gravel rides where the surface can be looser and the trails are more like 
mountain bike single track.

Good luck,
JohnS




On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-4 J wrote:

> You don't say which Gravel King model you are using, but I see in your 
> Philly post that you have Ultradynamico Cava tires on your bike. So maybe 
> you run the file tread GK? Anyhow, I rode through 2 sets of 700x42 Gravel 
> King SK on my old Sam Hillbourne before moving up to 700x50 which just 
> barely fit. I thought I'd notice a big difference but it turned out not to 
> be true, as long as I kept the air pressure up. I only have 650b bikes now, 
> and don't ride Gravel King SK after discovering the Rene Herse file tread 
> much smoother and faster "feeling". I've switched back and forth from 42 
> and 48mm RH file treads as well as 42 Gran Bois and have settled on 48mm RH 
> (Switchback Hill) which measures quite a bit over 48mm on my wheels. The 
> 42mm tires gave the perception that I was faster but the strava data did 
> not corroborate, and the 48mm have so much lovely float over gravel 
> compared to anything narrower or with tooth, I figured why bother? YMMV but 
> I think 48s won't be an issue. If my words sway you at all towards RH, just 
> keep in mind that they are not great in wet conditions with steep descents 
> combined with rim brakes. I learned this twice this fall, and kept RH 
> knobbies on until a few days ago. 
>
> mysterious J
>
> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 11:42:19 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews were 
>> among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various "racing" 
>> tires and 2 extralight RH models. I'd say that the right 48 mm tire will 
>> roll plenty fast. 
>>
>> I've not used any Gravel Kings.
>>
>> Patrick "it's not my tires that make me slow" Moore
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:10 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> ... Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my 
>>> other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles total. 
>>> I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are fat 
>>> enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride 
>>> again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will 
>>> cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Abomination? Riv Road "upgrades"

2024-03-20 Thread Ted Durant

On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 9:57:32 AM UTC-5 EGNolan wrote:

Pairing the wheels with some on-sale Vittoria Corsa G2.0 in 32 width made
the bike smoother than with 650b x 42 GravelKings and loads faster. Is it
an abomination? Heresy?

Well, my only personal feeling about Eric's bike is that the graphics on
the rims are kinda loud. Love the Ritchey cranks, though!

I sold my Heron Touring bike to a friend, for whom it was a perfect fit.
His brother-in-law, a hard-core road bike kinda guy, had a snazzy pair of
"last year's" carbon fiber wheels that he gave to my friend for cheap. I
was initially horrified by it and the cork pads he'd manage to find for the
cantilever brakes, but he was happy and rode it a LOT, so that made me
happy.

I have a lovely Campagnolo Daytona group on my Rivendell Road, with wheels
built by Joe Young using shiny, light, skinny FIR rims. I just discovered
that Rene Herse 32mm tires fit with room to spare, measuring 29mm on those
skinny rims. I also found a NOS 13-26 cassette to replace the 12-23 that I
had on there. Talk about an upgrade! All of a sudden I like this bike a
lot more.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2024

2024-03-20 Thread Drew Fitchette

Real Beauty of a DTT Sam on Ebay:

Riviendell Sam Hillborne Double Top-Tube 27-Speed Bicycle Size 58 EXQUISITE 


On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:00:23 PM UTC-4 Drew Fitchette wrote:

> Good Deal on a giant Clem:
>
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bop/d/tacoma-rivendell-clem-frame-fork-64cm/7728687165.html
>
> On Friday, March 15, 2024 at 11:46:10 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I love a bargain 👍
>>
>> On Friday, March 15, 2024 at 7:40:48 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> It's on special offer now to those of us who are watching it.  Now 
>>> avaiable for the low low price of $6250.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 13, 2024 at 9:59:37 AM UTC-7 LBleriot wrote:
>>>
 Yikes!  I would love to add a Heron Touring to go with my Road, but 
 this Ebay listing is kind of a silly way to solicit real offers.

 On Wednesday, March 13, 2024 at 12:26:30 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Obviously the Chris King Headset Composite Index has gone through the 
> roof.
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 6:37 PM Josh C  wrote:
>
>> wow
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 3:33:10 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> $7000  In a word, HA!  At least they are taking offers...  
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:28:26 PM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Heron Touring 
 55cm
 $7000
 Walled Lake, Michigan
 Rare rare rare parts like Titanium Chris King headset, Nitto racks, 
 and full Campagnolo...

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/176156925449?itmmeta=01HRQFP37XW2ZW9W57MX91XV8H&hash=item2903c55e09:g:1-QAAOSwlT9le1Vr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAI4A7jbJYmJLb0qhGidg8sdvoie5vcUpIvYrS%2BSMvrLJLvPiSDvKpjMsaHlJTCd1soc%2BS7lyI3DhBCJIMPjYbsw%2Bz2jx3FF1A8HaYOsrSGCGDojnJMNqrJC9m0GJvRkaVV7ejS4wIjNmkGPkl5PLpOEQlbXY8ub8%2FhPJelndP333HN%2B5YXfIBsGZBcK%2BedK1MLmQWY7kHqX4c4AzxDVzG%2B1rJVrllsTotNUBw2pKEhm%2BQDzzEV4sTfCquOQ0jScQhSElZQaXk3KjAGccNhRMGhT54kCgPjyFiebEPpJtvqbTfN%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4C02O_FYw

 On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 5:36:38 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Roadini
> 57cm
> 2000
> Emeryville, CA
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/emeryville-rivendell-leo-roadini/7720529232.html
>
 -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>> send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/74990461-7391-474d-8678-55c5cf2c2ef6n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other 
> writing services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-20 Thread Richard Rose

My only rapid rise - a beautiful Nexave courtesy of JJ - has made me a big fan. In particular, I am quite happy with my non rapid rise Deore unit on my Clem which gets lots of flatlander miles. But my Gus gets the singletrack hills. This is where the Nexave has one huge benefit. It takes zero effort to shift to an easier gear when I need it most. Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 20, 2024, at 1:14 PM, J J wrote:I'm 100 percent with Jock on this issue. It's hard to take the Disraeli Gears comments about the XT RD-M760 seriously, dripping as they are with dismissiveness. We've had long threads on this forum about low normal derailleurs before, and I still find the myths that circulate about Rapid Rise perplexing. For example, the myths that Rapid Rise performs "worse" than high normal, or it's harder to set up or index, or that (per the Disraeli Gears comments) it's somehow more prone to rust than other derailleurs in the same general series, like the XT M750, built with the same material.The reason I favor RR comes down to a shifting logic that works better for my brain and motor coordination than high normal. I shift in friction mode on all my bikes, which all have low normal rear ders. I like that I can move both levers in the same direction to get to higher/harder or lower/easier gears instead of moving oppositely. That's about it. I do think there are a few other benefits of RR: if my shift cable broke, the RR spring will push the derailleur to the easiest gear instead of the hardest, thus avoiding a potential high-gear slog home. But how often do cables break? RR also seems to shift more easily to lower/easier gears under load. But maybe this is a misattribution. Maybe I've simply gotten better about timing my shifts and floating the pedals. It does not mean that I have trouble with high normal shifting! To the contrary, high normal is just fine. Low normal is just a preference. What works great for Rapid Rise adherents won't necessarily work great for anyone else. Once you try RR, the possible outcomes will be that you like it, you hate it, or that you're more or less neutral about it. (You will also realize that one way or another, it is not earth shattering or life changing, nor will it make you a more skilled and faster rider). Any shifts I have missed or bungled are totally attributable to user error, to my timing or judgement, and not anything inherent to a high normal vs. low normal modality.Finally, all Rapid Rise rear ders I have tried, from the humble end to the fancy XTRs, work beautifully. The differences between them are refinement level, materials, weight, looks, aesthetics, and so on, just like every other Shimano product categories that are stratified by price point.On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:38:41 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:@ http://disraeligears.co.uk/…well I suppose if you pedal around in a saltwater bath, like some of those unfortunate souls…that might happen. For those us who ride under sunny skies now and again—and take care of stuff properly—I can tell you that after years and years of working those mechs, never a mixed-up shift that wasn’t my doing and not even a microscopic spot of corrosion to be found anywhere. Total hooey I say. And I’ve got the goods to prove it 🤪JockOn Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:15 PM Chintan Jadwani wrote:Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem indifference of the performance between low vs high normal. But online elsewhwre, there seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that? For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760"The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and, worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey, wrote:And the Rivendell ‘fan base’ is a subset of another and another so as to be mostly inconsequential. We do count, however and a few brave souls do sort-of OK serving us. Nevertheless, most of us (even here in RBW’s backyard) seldom cross paths with cyclists with whom we have anything in common other than two wheels. We’re already a bit abnormal and ‘low-normal’ makes us even more so. Jock (and his fleet of abnormal low-normals)On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 9:41 AM Johnny Alien wrote:I have to think that most of the market for these is from the Rivendell fan base. I don't hear any other bike group talking about them at all. Because of that I kind of think IF Riv ends up bringing their new one to market the used scene will come WAY down. Just a theory. I really hope that I can test the theory (because they successfully release it)On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-4 chintan...@gmail.com wrote:Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I kn

Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-20 Thread J J

I'm 100 percent with Jock on this issue. It's hard to take the Disraeli 
Gears comments about the XT RD-M760 seriously, dripping as they are with 
dismissiveness. We've had long threads on this forum about low normal 
derailleurs before, and I still find the myths that circulate about Rapid 
Rise perplexing. For example, the myths that Rapid Rise performs "worse" 
than high normal, or it's harder to set up or index, or that (per the 
Disraeli Gears comments) it's somehow more prone to rust than other 
derailleurs in the same general series, like the XT M750,  built with the 
same material.

The reason I favor RR comes down to a shifting logic that works better for 
my brain and motor coordination than high normal. I shift in friction mode 
on all my bikes, which all have low normal rear ders. I like that I can 
move both levers in the same direction to get to higher/harder or 
lower/easier gears instead of moving oppositely. That's about it. I do 
think there are a few other benefits of RR: if my shift cable broke, the RR 
spring will push the derailleur to the easiest gear instead of the hardest, 
thus avoiding a potential high-gear slog home. But how often do cables 
break? RR also seems to shift more easily to lower/easier gears under load. 
But maybe this is a misattribution. Maybe I've simply gotten better about 
timing my shifts and floating the pedals. 

It does not mean that I have *trouble* with high normal shifting! To the 
contrary, high normal is just fine. Low normal is just a preference. What 
works great for Rapid Rise adherents won't necessarily work great for 
anyone else. Once you try RR, the possible outcomes will be that you like 
it, you hate it, or that you're more or less neutral about it. (You will 
also realize that one way or another, it is not earth shattering or life 
changing, nor will it make you a more skilled and faster rider). 

Any shifts I have missed or bungled are totally attributable to user error, 
to my timing or judgement, and not anything inherent to a high normal vs. 
low normal modality.

Finally, all Rapid Rise rear ders I have tried, from the humble end to the 
fancy XTRs, work beautifully. The differences between them are refinement 
level, materials, weight, looks, aesthetics, and so on, just like every 
other Shimano product categories that are stratified by price point.

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:38:41 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:

> @ http://disraeligears.co.uk/…well I suppose if you pedal around in a 
> saltwater bath, like some of those unfortunate souls…that might happen. 
>
> For those us who ride under sunny skies now and again—and take care of 
> stuff properly—I can tell you that after years and years of working those 
> mechs, never a mixed-up shift that wasn’t my doing and not even a 
> microscopic spot of corrosion to be found anywhere. 
>
> Total hooey I say. And I’ve got the goods to prove it 🤪
>
> Jock
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:15 PM Chintan Jadwani  
> wrote:
>
>> Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem indifference 
>> of the performance between low vs high normal. But online elsewhwre, there 
>> seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that? 
>>
>> For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760
>>
>> "The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT 
>> variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and, 
>> worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your 
>> way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless 
>> steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."
>>
>> On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey,  wrote:
>>
>>> And the Rivendell ‘fan base’ is a subset of another and another so as to 
>>> be mostly inconsequential. We do count, however and a few brave souls do 
>>> sort-of OK serving us. 
>>>
>>> Nevertheless, most of us (even here in RBW’s backyard) seldom cross 
>>> paths with cyclists with whom we have anything in common other than two 
>>> wheels. We’re already a bit abnormal and ‘low-normal’ makes us even more 
>>> so. 
>>>
>>> Jock (and his fleet of abnormal low-normals)
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 9:41 AM Johnny Alien  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have to think that most of the market for these is from the Rivendell 
 fan base. I don't hear any other bike group talking about them at all. 
 Because of that I kind of think IF Riv ends up bringing their new one to 
 market the used scene will come WAY down. Just a theory. I really hope 
 that 
 I can test the theory (because they successfully release it)

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-4 chintan...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I know of the RR, every time 
> I am on an uphill and I have to push the gear to climb higher on the 
> cassette I feel some justification for having a "low-normal" derailleur. 
>
> Thanks also

Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread J

You don't say which Gravel King model you are using, but I see in your 
Philly post that you have Ultradynamico Cava tires on your bike. So maybe 
you run the file tread GK? Anyhow, I rode through 2 sets of 700x42 Gravel 
King SK on my old Sam Hillbourne before moving up to 700x50 which just 
barely fit. I thought I'd notice a big difference but it turned out not to 
be true, as long as I kept the air pressure up. I only have 650b bikes now, 
and don't ride Gravel King SK after discovering the Rene Herse file tread 
much smoother and faster "feeling". I've switched back and forth from 42 
and 48mm RH file treads as well as 42 Gran Bois and have settled on 48mm RH 
(Switchback Hill) which measures quite a bit over 48mm on my wheels. The 
42mm tires gave the perception that I was faster but the strava data did 
not corroborate, and the 48mm have so much lovely float over gravel 
compared to anything narrower or with tooth, I figured why bother? YMMV but 
I think 48s won't be an issue. If my words sway you at all towards RH, just 
keep in mind that they are not great in wet conditions with steep descents 
combined with rim brakes. I learned this twice this fall, and kept RH 
knobbies on until a few days ago. 

mysterious J

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 11:42:19 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews were 
> among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various "racing" 
> tires and 2 extralight RH models. I'd say that the right 48 mm tire will 
> roll plenty fast. 
>
> I've not used any Gravel Kings.
>
> Patrick "it's not my tires that make me slow" Moore
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:10 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> ... Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my 
>> other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles total. 
>> I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are fat 
>> enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride 
>> again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will 
>> cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore

The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews were
among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various "racing"
tires and 2 extralight RH models. I'd say that the right 48 mm tire will
roll plenty fast.

I've not used any Gravel Kings.

Patrick "it's not my tires that make me slow" Moore

On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:10 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> ... Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my
> other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles total.
> I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are fat
> enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride
> again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will
> cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?
>

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[RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Drew Fitchette

Hey Leah, 

Seconding Leif on the Basket comment. I used the Sim Works Obento Rack on 
my Atlantis and connected it at 3 points(fork crown, mid fork, and drop 
out) which gave me piece of mind when I had my Basket/Basket bag full of 
groceries or camping gear. 

I've swapped to a marks rack now and similarly use 3 connecting points. 

Drew in ATL

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 9:57:39 AM UTC-4 leifec...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey, Leah, 
> I don’t think you’ll have to worry about keeping up or pace for that 
> particular 2-day ride. It’s flat (no real hills) and mostly a laid-back 
> ride at your own pace. That said, some folks will be riding quicker than 
> others and you will find folks to ride with at any pace. Will you have 
> Michigan club rides starting up before June to try out the 48s with a 
> faster pace group?
>
> On the basket rack safety issue, you could possibly do a more permanent 
> belt and suspenders approach with an extra set of 2 daruma bolts and 2 
> extra stays attached to the mid-fork braze ons, which would replace the 
> backup safety feature of the strap. That way you’d have attachment points 
> at fork crown, mid fork eyelets and drop out eyelets. 
>
> As to maybe the other question of are belts and suspenders really 
> necessary?: it’s hard to answer for other people. Making sure bolts are 
> tight and inspecting fork crown attachment for damage before big rides or 
> on a maintenance schedule could help relieve some of those anxieties. I get 
> rivs cautions about being thrown by jammed fenders or failing rack 
> attachments: you’d never choose to have these things happen to you, so why 
> not add some extra fail-safes. 
> Best, 
> Leif in Chicago 
>
> On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 8:10:14 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I 
>> wait for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got 
>> back from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a 
>> newly minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I 
>> was welcomed with Second Winter. 
>>
>> Michigan is over here, doing me dirty. 
>>
>> I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a 
>> lot of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least 
>> you could do!
>>
>> I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will 
>> fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the 
>> tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m 
>> considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing 
>> Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road 
>> ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is 
>> a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could, 
>> because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires, 
>> should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than 
>> anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. 
>> What’s the consensus?
>>
>> Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked 
>> it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need 
>> a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from 
>> bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know 
>> Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and 
>> he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing 
>> about their front racks?
>>
>> Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build, 
>> but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to 
>> have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do 
>> just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people 
>> using to charge phones on long rides away from home?
>>
>> I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in 
>> Philly talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. 
>> Here’s a sneak peek.
>>
>> And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s 
>> experiences and points of view!
>> Leah
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Leif Eckstrom

Hey, Leah, 
I don’t think you’ll have to worry about keeping up or pace for that 
particular 2-day ride. It’s flat (no real hills) and mostly a laid-back 
ride at your own pace. That said, some folks will be riding quicker than 
others and you will find folks to ride with at any pace. Will you have 
Michigan club rides starting up before June to try out the 48s with a 
faster pace group?

On the basket rack safety issue, you could possibly do a more permanent 
belt and suspenders approach with an extra set of 2 daruma bolts and 2 
extra stays attached to the mid-fork braze ons, which would replace the 
backup safety feature of the strap. That way you’d have attachment points 
at fork crown, mid fork eyelets and drop out eyelets. 

As to maybe the other question of are belts and suspenders really 
necessary?: it’s hard to answer for other people. Making sure bolts are 
tight and inspecting fork crown attachment for damage before big rides or 
on a maintenance schedule could help relieve some of those anxieties. I get 
rivs cautions about being thrown by jammed fenders or failing rack 
attachments: you’d never choose to have these things happen to you, so why 
not add some extra fail-safes. 
Best, 
Leif in Chicago 

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 8:10:14 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I wait 
> for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got back 
> from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a newly 
> minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I was 
> welcomed with Second Winter. 
>
> Michigan is over here, doing me dirty. 
>
> I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a lot 
> of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least you 
> could do!
>
> I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will 
> fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the 
> tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m 
> considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing 
> Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road 
> ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is 
> a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could, 
> because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires, 
> should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than 
> anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. 
> What’s the consensus?
>
> Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked 
> it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need 
> a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from 
> bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know 
> Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and 
> he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing 
> about their front racks?
>
> Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build, 
> but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to 
> have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do 
> just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people 
> using to charge phones on long rides away from home?
>
> I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in Philly 
> talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. Here’s a 
> sneak peek.
>
> And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s experiences 
> and points of view!
> Leah
>
>
>

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