[RBW] Sugino Wide/Low Double Feedback -- Triple vs Double

2015-04-02 Thread DSat
Any feedback from those who have used this wide/low dbl crank?  
Likes/dislikes?  I see Riv recommends it for the Clem and I think that I 
saw it in one of the build kits for a Sam.  Anyone got the wide/low and 
then switched back to the triple?  Anyone switched from the triple to the 
double and ended up keeping the double?  So, kind of a Sugino triple vs 
double comparison?

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[RBW] Sam or Clem (or both) ???

2015-04-01 Thread DSat


Sam 55 vs Clem 52.  PBH 83.  5'10 and weigh 300 lbs.  Will ride mostly on 
pavement.  Anything offroad will not be too rough.  Will never carry any 
real heavy loads.  I do one charity ride a year where you get to choose 
anywhere from 30 to 100 miles.  I usually do the 60 mile ride.

Clem will provide a couple more CM's of standover than the Sam, so I could 
use the max width tire than Clem will allow if I so choose.  I'm not really 
sure how wide of a tire that I could use on the Sam and still have 
clearance for standover.  I've read the min SO for the Sam is 83, so I will 
be close to max'd out with standover on the Sam.  I think I could do 
standover for at least the 38mm tires.  I usually ride in sandals, so I do 
not get a lot of help with standover from my shoe soles.

Per some Riv employees, I could get the bars maybe 1cm or so higher on the 
Sam/Hunq as compared to the Clem in my sizes.  I will use either Alba's or 
Bosco's no matter which bike b/c I am not very flexible and I need the bars 
above the seat level.

I think the Clem is probably the safest bet just due to a little more 
standover height with the ability to get the bars nearly as high as the 
Sam.  I'd love to have both, but I'm not sure about spending that much 
money.  I'm not sure if the Clem would work for the charity ride due to an 
out of shape engine.  Seems like my head is saying Clem and my heart is 
saying Sam ha ha ha.

Wow, things must be going well for me if my biggest problem is deciding on 
which bike to buy!!!

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[RBW] Re: Sam or Clem (or both) ???

2015-04-01 Thread DSat
Yes, I am afraid that the 51 Sam would not allow me to get the bars high 
enough.  My lack of flexibility probably eliminates the Sam 51.

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 2:50:57 PM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

  One thought: if you're looking to ride soon, then Sam is probably the 
 way to go. IIRC: Clem and Clementine are scheduled for fall. If you can 
 wait that long (or possibly longer if there are delays), then no big deal. 
 But... you'd be missing prime riding season, which is worth something.

 With your PBH at 83, you could go either 51 or 55 Sam-- if you're 
 concerned about stand over, why not go down to 51? It's also 650b like 52 
 Clem. (or do you think the head tube/handle bars won't get high enough?)

 shoji 


 On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 2:19:26 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote: 

 You can't go wrong either way. You will be delighted either way. You will 
 scratch your head and wonder what if... either way. Grin. 

 I wouldn't fret about standover height on the Sam. I ride bikes that have 
 a standover height the same as my PBH and I put the fattest tires I can on 
 there, and we get along great. You'll do just fine. From what you describe 
 I'd go for the Sam were I you. Then I'd get the Clementine for when I'm 95 
 and can't swing my leg over the saddle or the top bar any more. Grin.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick 



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[RBW] Re: Sam or Clem (or both) ???

2015-04-01 Thread DSat
I currently have a San Marcos which will either be sold or given to the son 
because the 59 is on the big side for me.  That is one thing that I was 
thinking about was how wide of tires do I want at my weight.  Are you 
keeping your Sam as well as getting the Clem?  I'm sure that I could decide 
if I could test ride, but I'm completely across the country.  I just have 
no idea how a Clem would ride differently than a Sam.  No idea if the Clem 
would do all that I am looking for or not.  I do get the impression that 
the Clem 52 would probably allow more options for seat height to bar and 
seat to bars adjustment than the 55 Sam would.  

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 6:17:22 PM UTC-4, cbone97 wrote:

 I had a Sam and loved every aspect of it, except that tire size maxed out 
 at about 40mm.  I'm a big guy and like the peace of mind, at least for me, 
 of riding fatter tires.  I now have a Clem pre-orderd and can't wait to 
 have the fat-tired Riv I always wanted at a bargain price.

 Do you have a bike now? 


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[RBW] Re: Sam or Clem (or both) ???

2015-04-01 Thread DSat
Yes, I also considered the Cheviot.  I am not very flexible, so the low 
standover is attractive.  I would be interested to see an overlay or side 
by side comparison of the Sam 55 and the middle size Cheviot.  Due to my 
lack of flexibility and plus I have shorter arms that most males my height, 
I usually want the bars 3 to 4 inches above the seat.  I struggle to find 
the happy medium of sitting too upright and too bent over.  I like enough 
distance to the bars that I can stand to pedal with leverage on the bars 
when I choose too.  Do you happen to know if the Cheviot is more upright in 
comparable sizes than say a Sam or Clem?  Or how the top tube length (or 
distance from seat to head tube) would compare to the other bikes?  I will 
admit that I don't like being at minimum standover for the 55 Sam, but 
then again it helps get the bars high like needed.  I want the bars high, 
but I don't want to be too upright.

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 4:43:02 PM UTC-4, Kellie wrote:

 You can save some dough; buy the Clem. You can get two different sets of 
 tires for the different kind of riding. That's cheaper than 2 bikes. Also I 
 use the Rock and Road tires on my Cheviot and ride trail and street. Love 
 them!

 On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 11:09:57 AM UTC-7, DSat wrote:

 Sam 55 vs Clem 52.  PBH 83.  5'10 and weigh 300 lbs.  Will ride mostly 
 on pavement.  Anything offroad will not be too rough.  Will never carry any 
 real heavy loads.  I do one charity ride a year where you get to choose 
 anywhere from 30 to 100 miles.  I usually do the 60 mile ride.

 Clem will provide a couple more CM's of standover than the Sam, so I 
 could use the max width tire than Clem will allow if I so choose.  I'm not 
 really sure how wide of a tire that I could use on the Sam and still have 
 clearance for standover.  I've read the min SO for the Sam is 83, so I will 
 be close to max'd out with standover on the Sam.  I think I could do 
 standover for at least the 38mm tires.  I usually ride in sandals, so I do 
 not get a lot of help with standover from my shoe soles.

 Per some Riv employees, I could get the bars maybe 1cm or so higher on 
 the Sam/Hunq as compared to the Clem in my sizes.  I will use either Alba's 
 or Bosco's no matter which bike b/c I am not very flexible and I need the 
 bars above the seat level.

 I think the Clem is probably the safest bet just due to a little more 
 standover height with the ability to get the bars nearly as high as the 
 Sam.  I'd love to have both, but I'm not sure about spending that much 
 money.  I'm not sure if the Clem would work for the charity ride due to an 
 out of shape engine.  Seems like my head is saying Clem and my heart is 
 saying Sam ha ha ha.

 Wow, things must be going well for me if my biggest problem is deciding 
 on which bike to buy!!!



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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread DSat
I enjoyed the comparison of the Clem and Hunq.  Nice layover.  Just out of 
curiosity, what size Hunq was compared to the Clem 52?  I ask because I 
have been communicate with Riv and 2 of the choices that I have been given 
is a 52 Clem and a 54 Hunq.  They say that the Clem 52 would give me a 
couple of CM of extra standover height.  Still trying to decide between the 
Clem, Hunq, and Sam.  I was just trying to determine if spending the extra 
money on the Hunq was worth it or not.  I know the Hunq has nicer tubing, 
lugs, and paint which drives up the price.  

My big issue is that I'm a tough fit due to lack of flexibility and I have 
slightly shorter arms than a male of my height.  My PBH is 83.  I wonder 
which one would give me the most options of seat heights and bar heights. 
 I almost think that the Clem would.  I seem to like my bars 2 to 4 inches 
above seat level, but yet not where I'm sitting straight upright.  For a 
visual (just viewing the seat and handlebars), the pic of the 59 Clem 
Anthracite looks like what I am trying to achieve in terms of bars above 
seat level and distance from seat to bars.

To do that on the Hunq and Sam, I'm afraid that I would need to get the max 
sized frame which would allow the least standover height which then would 
limit how wide of a tire that I can use.  Anyone know the max standover 
height on the Hunq size 54 with the widest accepted tire?  Anyone know the 
max standover height of the Sam 55 with the widest accepted tire? 

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 1:52:49 PM UTC-4, DSat wrote:

 Anyone can compare the two that has had experience with one or both?  
 What's different?  What's the same?  Ride the same?  Ride different?  One 
 heavier vs one lighter?  One more upright than the other?  I know the Clem 
 is designed for swept back bars such as the Alba's or Bosco.  I know the 
 Hunq would be 700 tires vs 650 for the Clem.  I know the Clem has longer 
 chainstays.  What would be the reason to spend the extra $$$ for the Hunq 
 over the Clem?
 I am talking the Hunq 54 vs the Clem 52 (though that probably don't matter)
  
 Any input appreciated.


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[RBW] Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-26 Thread DSat


Anyone can compare the two that has had experience with one or both?  
What's different?  What's the same?  Ride the same?  Ride different?  One 
heavier vs one lighter?  One more upright than the other?  I know the Clem 
is designed for swept back bars such as the Alba's or Bosco.  I know the 
Hunq would be 700 tires vs 650 for the Clem.  I know the Clem has longer 
chainstays.  What would be the reason to spend the extra $$$ for the Hunq 
over the Clem?
I am talking the Hunq 54 vs the Clem 52 (though that probably don't matter)
 
Any input appreciated.

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[RBW] Re: Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

2015-03-26 Thread DSat
Zack, which would you choose between the two if you had to only keep one of 
them?

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 4:38:12 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

 First, and most importantly, talk to the guys at Riv about any and all 
 sizing and weight/height issues.  They will not ever steer you wrong.  If 
 you aren't near enough to SF to visit Walnut Creek, follow the instructions 
 explicitly for measuring your PBH.  At Riv, if the best option is the 
 cheapest option, they will tell you so.  It's a different buying experience 
 than at 99% of the places you buy things in the world.  They are awesome, 
 they will help you, and that is good.  You won't get any pressure sales 
 tactics, I would say it's more like talking with a genius friend about what 
 might work best for your situation.

 Next: I am 6'3, of varying weights depending on how many pizzas donuts 
 and carrot cakes i am consuming at any given time, from about 215 to 250. 
  I have a Sam and a Hunq.  Both are most excellent bikes.  I just got back 
 from a camping overnight on the Sam, loaded up, and it was totally fine.  I 
 have the 64 cm double top tube.  I don't ever think about putting too much 
 stuff on the Sam.  I certainly don't think about it on the Hunq.  I took 
 the Sam because it currently has fenders on it and the Hunq doesn't.  The 
 Sam rides better when there is less stuff on it (but is still eminently 
 rideable when carrying a load), the Hunq feels better when it's loaded up, 
 but is still fun to ride when it isn't!  


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[RBW] Re: Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

2015-03-26 Thread DSat


Intended use?  Majority paved riding.  If I did off-road, it would be 
somewhat smooth, nothing rough.  I will not do any heavy loaded touring.  
So, due to my intended riding, I'm more concerned with getting the correct 
fit as I think any of the models would serve my purpose.  I have always 
been a tough bike fit because I am not very flexible and my arms are 
slightly shorter than most men my size.  So, I need the bars 2 to 4 inches 
above seat level.  I'm trying to find the happy medium from being too 
upright and too far bent over.

Just based on the eyeball test (and too many past bikes), the 59 Clem 
Anthracite (size 59 is too high for standover height for me though) pic on 
the Riv web site looks like what I want to achieve in the (1) distance from 
seat to bars; and (2) distance of bars above seat level.  So, I'm trying to 
determine which Riv model and size will give me the best opportunity to 
match that setup for my PBH.

Based on my PBH, I guess we are talking a 55 Sam, 52 Clem, 56 Atlantis, and 
54 Hunq.  Woops, forgot to look at Cheviot sizing.  I live in Georgia, so 
I'm trying to narrow things down.

My only frame of reference is my 59 Soma San Marcos (that Riv sells as 
well).  Yes, the 59 San Marcos to too big for standover height with 32mm 
tires.  I can stand over it with shoes on, but it is at emergency status 
if you know what I mean ha ha.  

It currently has Alba's with a 130mm length stem and is not far from a good 
fit.  I forget the model of the Nitto stem, but I seem to remember it was 
the tallest version that had the 130mm length and I currently have the stem 
at the max height.  For a lack of a better way of explaining it, it's 
almost like the Alba's are slightly to small and the Bosco bars are slighty 
too big.  The Alba's need just a little more height and a little more reach 
back towards the seat.  I can get the Bosco to work height wise, but it 
comes about 2 inches too far back towards the seat.  I think if I had a bar 
halfway between an Alba and Bosco it would be about right.

I am looking to replace the 59 San Marcos due to the standover height.  
Also, I've never seemed to be able to find a good pedalling position or 
relationship between the seat position and the pedals.  It's just never 
been right and I assume it is just that the frame is a little big.

The 59 San Marcos and the 55 Sam is somewhat close in geometry.  I'm afraid 
that I might run into the same bar issue with the Sam as with the San 
Marcos.  The Clem, Sam, and Hunq (i think) have the upsloping top tube by 6 
degrees which will help get the bars up.  The Atlantis I think is only 2 or 
2.5 degree upslope.
Any advice on which model or models that you think might best for my sizing 
issues?

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 4:26:14 PM UTC-4, DSat wrote:

 To the riders that weigh 200 lbs or more, which Riv model are you riding?  
 I am just shy of 300, so should I consider one model over another?  I 
 assume that the wider the tires the better.


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[RBW] Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

2015-03-25 Thread DSat
To the riders that weigh 200 lbs or more, which Riv model are you riding?  
I am just shy of 300, so should I consider one model over another?  I 
assume that the wider the tires the better.

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Re: [RBW] Anyone in Georgia (USA) have a Sam (or other model) Size 55/56?

2015-03-25 Thread DSat
Bruce, I sent you a private message.  I might be in the Knoxville area in a 
couple of weeks.

On Tuesday, March 24, 2015 at 7:10:01 AM UTC-4, Bruce Baker wrote:

 This might help I have a 56 Sam and live in Knoxville, TN.  Let me know if 
 this works for you.. 
 Bruce

 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 12:53 PM, DSat satt...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

  I am located in the state of Geogia and just trying to find a bike to 
 try on for sizing.  My PBH is approximately 83 +/-

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[RBW] Re: Anyone in Georgia (USA) have a Sam (or other model) Size 55/56?

2015-03-25 Thread DSat
When you say surprised, were you surprised it was that low or that high? 
 On your 56 Hillborne, what size tires do you have and what is the actual 
standover height?  My issue is I am ballpark 83cm PBH and wear thin soled 
shoes, so I'm not sure if a 55 would work or not as I'd like to run as wide 
of tires as it would allow.  So, trying to decide between Sam and Hunq and 
Clem.  I weigh just shy of 300, so the wider the tires the better I would 
think.  I will not do any rough off road riding.  Anything off road would 
be relatively smooth.  Thanks for the info.

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 8:25:43 PM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:

 D,

 I'm afraid I don't live anywhere near GA but I thought I could offer my 
 perspective as a Hillborne owner.  Riv's Hillborne catalog said that the 55 
 required a minimum of 83 PBH.  That surprised me a little.  I have an 85cm 
 PBH and ride a 56cm Hillborne that fits me better than any bike I've 
 owned.  Here is a photo to give you a sense of how much seatpost I have 
 showing.  I thought it was a lot of seatpost and I've had no problems with 
 the standover.  I would suggest talking to Will or Keven at Riv to tap 
 into their fitting expertise.

 Hope that helps.
 John



 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 11:11:58 AM UTC-7, DSat wrote:

 I am located in the state of Geogia and just trying to find a bike to try 
 on for sizing.  My PBH is approximately 83 +/-



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[RBW] Re: I test rode the Clem

2015-03-21 Thread DSat
Which current Riv bike model would be the most similar to the Clem?  I 
realize the Clem is different, but try and explain where it fits into the 
current bike model lineup.

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 3:21:27 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I rolled by RBW HQ this morning and got to test ride a 52cm Clem.  I've 
 always felt lucky that I'm pretty much exactly Grant-sized.  Turns out 
 today I got to ride Grant's Clem prototype, and didn't even have to change 
 saddle height.  It's terrific.  It rides how I expected it to ride, meaning 
 it disappeared, made me smile, and made me reluctant to return it to them.  

 I don't know if I will pre-order, but if I do, the $150 they are paying me 
 to adopt early will go towards a set of Bosco Bullmooses.  That's the bar 
 for that bike.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA




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[RBW] Clem Colors -- Silver vs Anthracite ????

2015-03-21 Thread DSat
On the Blug there is a picture labelled Anthracite.  I thought that I 
read somewhere that the three colors for the Clem were blue, green, and 
silver.  Does Anthracite refer to the silver color that was mentioned? 
 Or is there not a picture of the Silver?  Is the Anthracite just a test 
color that will not be offered for the bike?  Any input appreciated on 
silver vs anthracite.

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[RBW] Sam Owner's - What is the true standover height for size 51 and 55?

2015-03-12 Thread DSat
For those with a 51 or 55 Sam, what is the true standover height with 32mm 
or larger tires.  I think the 55 Sam would be at my max standover height 
and I didn't know if dropping down to a 51 would be doable or not.  I'm 
kind of hesitant buy a bike with a fit that is at an extreme.  Or would the 
Clem 52 help split the difference b/t the Sam 51 and 55.  Does anyone know 
the standover of the 52 Clem?  I have shorter than normal arms for a male, 
so I do need help getting the bars up either buy the type of bars or the 
upsloping top tube.  Thanks in advance.

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[RBW] Re: Sam Owner's - What is the true standover height for size 51 and 55?

2015-03-11 Thread DSat
Thanks for the info.  Sounds like I am just an in-betweener.  I'd rather 
not have a bike fit me at an extreme.  Sounds like 55 is just barely too 
big and the 51 would be a shade to small since I really like the bars 
high.  Thanks again.

On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 3:27:31 PM UTC-4, DSat wrote:

 For those with a 51 or 55 Sam, what is the true standover height with 32mm 
 or larger tires.  I think the 55 Sam would be at my max standover height 
 and I didn't know if dropping down to a 51 would be doable or not.  I'm 
 kind of hesitant buy a bike with a fit that is at an extreme.  Or would the 
 Clem 52 help split the difference b/t the Sam 51 and 55.  Does anyone know 
 the standover of the 52 Clem?  I have shorter than normal arms for a male, 
 so I do need help getting the bars up either buy the type of bars or the 
 upsloping top tube.  Thanks in advance.


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[RBW] Clem Questions

2015-03-04 Thread DSat
I am a relative newcomer to the Rivendell world.  I am considering a Clem. 
 I don't know a lot about the Clem other than the new blog pic's, etc.  Is 
there any particular type of riding that this bike is meant for?  Is there 
any type of riding that the Clem is not meant for?  Since they suggested 
the wide low double crank, I didn't know if that leant to a certain type of 
riding or not.  With a PBH of 83, Iassume the middle size would be my size. 
 Any idea if the blue color would be a light blue or a darker blue?  Thanks 
In Advance

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[RBW] More Clem Questions

2015-03-04 Thread DSat
Anyone know the rear spacing on the Clem? 135?
Anyone know the wheel size for the Clem (size 52 medium)?  700?
Which current Riv bike model would most closely resemble the Clem?  or ride 
like the Clem, etc?  Sam?  Hunq?

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[RBW] Re: Derailer Cable Replacement Issues (Help a novice)

2015-01-25 Thread DSat
I started over for the I don't know how many-ith time, and now it seems to 
be doing better.  I haven't got to get out and ride yet, but it seems to be 
remotely close to working which is miles ahead of where I was.  Thanks to 
everybody for all of the help.  I have no idea what that I did differently, 
but who cares at this point.  Thanks to all.
 

On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 6:33:31 PM UTC-5, DSat wrote:

  First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable.  Using the same 
 handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good 
 condition).  Have not touched any limit screws as derailer seems to be 
 lined up correctly under the smallest gear in back.  Chain on smallest cog 
 in back and on small ring up front.  Shifter all the way down when I insert 
 the cable.  I am only pulling the cable by hand when I attach it to the RD 
 (Deore 9 spd) which has a groove for the cable.  Having no luck getting it 
 to shift correctly.  When I am shifting from the smallest to larger cogs, 
 once I hit about the 3rd smallest cog it automatically shifts back down. 
  If I go further up it does the same thing.  Only when it gets in the 
 biggest rings does it stay put.  I've played with the cable adjust thing on 
 the RD as well as the one at the cable stop (where downtube shifters would 
 go) in about as many combinations as I could think of and nothing seems to 
 help.

 Any advice as to what is causing it or would fix it?  Do I need to have 
 the cable pulled tighter than by hand when attaching to the RD?  If I push 
 on the cable about a foot or two up above the bottom bracket cable guide, 
 how tight should the cable feel (should I be able to push it and hit the 
 frame or should it be tight, etc???)  About at the point to give up and 
 take it to a bike shop b/c I've spent too many hours for such a seemingly 
 simple task.  Yes, I'm a beginner, but after watching videos, and reading 
 bike repair books, and even advice from Mark at Riv, I'm still obviously 
 doing something wrong.

 Thanks In Advance


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[RBW] Re: Derailer Cable Replacement Issues (Help a novice)

2015-01-22 Thread DSat
Yes, you are correct in your description of the issue.  I've tried to 
loosen and or snug up the d-ring screw and the behavior seems the same no 
matter how loose or snug it is.  So, at this point I either need to get a 
different set of shifters or open it up so see if I have any luck.  It's a 
lost cause as it is, so I don't guess that it would hurt to open it up and 
see what's going on.  I have an old set of dia-compe shift levers that i 
guess that I could try.  Thanks so much.

On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 7:54:05 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I think it sounds like the ratcheting part inside your shifter is not 
 engaging correctly.  

 When you say It automatically shifts back down, you mean you use your 
 hand to move the shifter far enough to get it to move all the way up to the 
 5th or 6th cog, and when you take your hand off the shifter, it shifts back 
 down.  Is this correct? 

 If yes, then you haven't done anything wrong with the cable.  There's 
 something slipping in the shifter.  There are two ways this could happen, 
 one simple and easy, the other a little more complex, but still not rocket 
 surgery.  

 1.  The friction part is just too loose.  Your Silver shifter is held in 
 place with friction.  The tightness of that friction is determined by the 
 tightness of the D-ring screw part on the shifter.  See if that D-ring 
 feels loose, and maybe snug it up a bit.  If it seems snug, do not reef on 
 it hard.  You can break the plastic washer if you get all burly on it. 
  That's why it's a D-ring, to keep you from putting a wrench on it and 
 overtightening.  
 2.  The ratchet part is not engaging.  Inside that shifter there's a 
 ratchet ring.  It has lots of teeth on it and there's a spring loaded 
 little toothy thing that locks into those teeth.  Pulling the cable drags 
 that springloaded toothy bit across the ratchet rings.  Then it locks in 
 place with friction.  Releasing the cable forces that ratchet ring to move 
 through friction.  Anyway, if those teeth aren't engaging right, then your 
 derailer might not hold a position.  A couple of us have taken apart that 
 internal mechanism, but it's pretty delicate.  You kind of need to know 
 what you are looking at and need to know how it's supposed to look to 
 determine if it's messed up.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA  

 On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 3:33:31 PM UTC-8, DSat wrote:

 First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable.  Using the same 
 handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good 
 condition).  Have not touched any limit screws as derailer seems to be 
 lined up correctly under the smallest gear in back.  Chain on smallest cog 
 in back and on small ring up front.  Shifter all the way down when I insert 
 the cable.  I am only pulling the cable by hand when I attach it to the RD 
 (Deore 9 spd) which has a groove for the cable.  Having no luck getting it 
 to shift correctly.  When I am shifting from the smallest to larger cogs, 
 once I hit about the 3rd smallest cog it automatically shifts back down. 
  If I go further up it does the same thing.  Only when it gets in the 
 biggest rings does it stay put.  I've played with the cable adjust thing on 
 the RD as well as the one at the cable stop (where downtube shifters would 
 go) in about as many combinations as I could think of and nothing seems to 
 help.

 Any advice as to what is causing it or would fix it?  Do I need to have 
 the cable pulled tighter than by hand when attaching to the RD?  If I push 
 on the cable about a foot or two up above the bottom bracket cable guide, 
 how tight should the cable feel (should I be able to push it and hit the 
 frame or should it be tight, etc???)  About at the point to give up and 
 take it to a bike shop b/c I've spent too many hours for such a seemingly 
 simple task.  Yes, I'm a beginner, but after watching videos, and reading 
 bike repair books, and even advice from Mark at Riv, I'm still obviously 
 doing something wrong.

 Thanks In Advance



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[RBW] Derailer Cable Replacement Issues (Help a novice)

2015-01-22 Thread DSat
First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable.  Using the same 
handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good 
condition).  Have not touched any limit screws as derailer seems to be 
lined up correctly under the smallest gear in back.  Chain on smallest cog 
in back and on small ring up front.  Shifter all the way down when I insert 
the cable.  I am only pulling the cable by hand when I attach it to the RD 
(Deore 9 spd) which has a groove for the cable.  Having no luck getting it 
to shift correctly.  When I am shifting from the smallest to larger cogs, 
once I hit about the 3rd smallest cog it automatically shifts back down. 
 If I go further up it does the same thing.  Only when it gets in the 
biggest rings does it stay put.  I've played with the cable adjust thing on 
the RD as well as the one at the cable stop (where downtube shifters would 
go) in about as many combinations as I could think of and nothing seems to 
help.

Any advice as to what is causing it or would fix it?  Do I need to have the 
cable pulled tighter than by hand when attaching to the RD?  If I push on 
the cable about a foot or two up above the bottom bracket cable guide, how 
tight should the cable feel (should I be able to push it and hit the frame 
or should it be tight, etc???)  About at the point to give up and take it 
to a bike shop b/c I've spent too many hours for such a seemingly simple 
task.  Yes, I'm a beginner, but after watching videos, and reading bike 
repair books, and even advice from Mark at Riv, I'm still obviously doing 
something wrong.

Thanks In Advance

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