Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Happy Commuter

[Dave Lloyd]

Here's our every day ride to school (my son Gus and I are on the Big Dummy).

http://videos.stltoday.com/p/video?id=14182075

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shorts--MUSA alternatives

[Dave Lloyd]

I'm a fan of the North Face Paramount cargo shorts. Fitted enough, still
loose, cargo pockets and a gusseted crotch so your movement isn't, um,
restricted.  Nice balance between light and durable, too.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Remember those learning bikes in the Rivendell Reader? Success Story here

[Dave Lloyd]

I, too, am a big believer in Skuuts. All three kids have used 'em so far,
you can flip the frame upside down to fit smaller kids, and they make
learning a big kid bike a breeze.  I did still have to take off the pedals
when I moved the kids up to real bikes (they handle a bit differently), but
once they got used to the different center of gravity, steering and whatnot,
it was literally five minutes learning to pedal and they were off.  Number
two of three started riding a bike without training wheels at 3.5 that way
(youngest so far!).

What was really rewarding recently is helping a friend of my oldest learn to
ride a bike in a similar fashion. I yanked the pedals and training wheels
from her bike, lowered the seatpost as far as it would go, then my oldest
was coaching her through the finer points of scooting along with your feet
and learning to balance. It was incredibly rewarding seeing my son pass on
something that he had learned. I felt like a star parent that day for sure.

As far as brands, I can vouch for the Skuut being pretty durable, surviving
a few hand me downs and extended loans to other kids.  I figure that the two
we have will have gone through at least three kids each by the time number
four (due any day now) graduates from one.

Anyway, balance bikes are awesome. If you have young kids, get 'em one. If
you have friends or relatives with young kids, buy 'em one.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Kid bike recommendations (geared, for a 4'8" kid)

[Dave Lloyd]

I think that the conquest also comes in a 20" flat bar version as well.
Specialized makes a Hotrock Street which has 21 speeds and a rigid fork
(Aluminum, though). The Raleigh Rowdy has 6 speeds and comes in a 20" size.

Novara also had the pulse, which is a 26" wheeled road bike, but it seems to
be unavailable now.

--dlloyd



On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 11:31, Bill Connell  wrote:

> The Redline Conquest is a really nice, versatile bike that comes in a
> small size with 24" wheels. I think typical retail new is about double
> your range, but a used one would be about right. So many kid bikes are
> mountain bikes, if they're riding mostly on paved surfaces this might
> be a better option.
>
> --
> Bill Connell
> St. Paul, MN
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 5:41 PM, Earl Grey  wrote:
> > We are thinking of getting my nephew a new bike, since he has outgrown
> > his bmx. He wants gears, and we can't spend more than $250-300. Any
> > ideas about good (if not Rivish) kids bikes?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gernot
> >
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Re: [RBW] Bike to work day

[Dave Lloyd]

Got out the door early with my Son, hit the refueling station by our house
and ended up in the paper.
http://videos.stltoday.com/p/video?id=14182075


A typical day aside from the really beautiful weather.

Riv-ish content on the bike: The BD was featured in a reader, rim brakes,
albatross bars, cork grips, twine, shellac and bar end sheifters.

--dlloyd



On Sun, May 23, 2010 at 12:42, Andy Williams  wrote:

> "Friday was national bike to work day...or something like that.
>
>  How did "y'all" do?"
>
> Woke up Friday a.m. to drizzle, cold, puddles, etc, and was on the
> fence about riding, given distance, hills and the day's agenda.
> But, clicked on the news, saw more pictures of the Gulf Coast Oil
> Disaster, thought about the good ol' Bleriot, and decided to be part
> of a solution.
>
> Saddled up, had a great time!
>
> Andy
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: I'll be in Chicago for the next eight days

[Dave Lloyd]

Check out if the Museum of Science and Industry has a reciprocal arrangement
with any museums in your area. I know that they do with the STL Science
Center (my town), which with the discount on tickets just about pays for a
one year membership at the STL Science Center.

If you want to check out tall buildings, the Hancock center is better than
the Sears tower. Plus, you can get in for free-ish.  Go for the cocktail
lounge on the  94th floor.  While standing in line, duck out to go to the
bathroom. Floor to ceiling windows in the bathroom and no admission fee.

It's been ages since I've been up there as a tourist, so I've forgotten all
the cool things to do.  What part of town are you staying in?

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

[Dave Lloyd]

Recently (this weekend) I noticed that the rear wheel on my Big Dummy (XT
hub, Mavic 319 rim) had play. Figuring that it's a year round commuter and
it's been about a year since the hub and wheel were new, I yanked it apart,
re-greased, adjusted, etc.

Whoops. Stil play. Adjust the cones tighter (wow, that just seems like too
much resistance). Still play.

The next day I took the wheel back from whence it came. One of the mechanics
could reproduce the play, the other could not. Suggestion: try without the
Burley hitch.

I get home and think, "gee, it's always been a tight fit in the rear
dropout, I wonder...). With the help of a friend and a workstand, we noticed
that with the QR removed, the axle was not seated fully in the dropout.  A
utility knife and judicious use of a file later (paint only, no metal
removal), the axle now seats fully.

Huh.  But there's still play.  This time, I ride back to the shop.  Well,
now they're able to reproduce the issue, yank the hub apart, re-grease,
adjust, etc.  Still play.

The best guess is that the freehub body is not secured adequately to the
hub.  Since the bearing race is part of the freehub body, if the freehub is
loose, well, there ya go. I stop at the local cheap tools place (Autozone)
and pick up a 14MM allen key for a 1/2" socket. When I get home, I yank the
thing apart again and sure enough, the fixing bolt for the freehub was not
tight (don't worry, I didn't hamfist it and was judicious in how much torque
I was applying).

Now, I get the hub back together, adjust correctly (now that feels like the
bearings are smooth!), secure the wheel again, and now I have smooth
spinning and no play.

So, the moral of this story is that you should definitely check the
alignment of the axle in the dropouts, the alignment of the dropouts
themselves and other things that you wouldn't expect to be loose, like the
freehub body.  It's unclear if having the axle not seated fully in the
dropouts caused or aggravated any of my issues, or if it's my propensity to
sprint from stoplights on a really huge bike, but in the future, you can bet
that I will always shave paint from the inside of the dropouts of any new or
repainted frame and check for axle play every week.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Re: Kickstands

[Dave Lloyd]

I've heard that wallbike.com carries them, though you have to call as
they're on the website.  Also, they're available here:
http://yubaride.com/yubashop/14-b.html .

I do prefer the Hebie over the Pletcher for functionality, hands down.

The best kickstand I have is the KickBack on my Big Dummy, but that's an
entirely different beast.

--dlloyd


On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 19:30, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> The Hebie looks even stouter than the VO but from a very quick and cursory
> Google search it's not available in the US and, overseas, it's priced like
> the Pletscher. Is that right? But it looks wider and more stable than the
> Pletscher, which I found inadequate -- certainly not as good for eccentric
> rear loads as a cheap Greenfield rear-triangle-mount stand, and certainly
> *certainly* not as good as the VO. I opine that, for the price (~&US27) the
> VO is value king, but we'll see how long it holds up. It is a bit lighter
> than the Hebie at 1 1/2 lb of good ol' Amurkin aluminum. (Actually, that's
> good ol' Amerkin *Chinese* aluminum.)
>
> The Greenfield is great in stores. I wheel the bike through the store as my
> shopping cart with the stand down despite the eternally circling fixed
> drivetrain crankset; I can simply let go as I browse the aisles of plenty,
> AND it supports even a way-offside left side load if you turn the wheel all
> the way to the right. Cheap, black and effective: what else do you need? I'd
> put one on the Sam Hill in place of the VO but the SH has that bb plate
> which just demands to be used.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Kickstands

[Dave Lloyd]

I've used the Pletscher on a bike (now sold) and the Hebie bipod on my
wife's bike.  The Hebie is truly panzeresque in both its build quality and
weight, but an extra kilo won't hurt too bad on a utility bike.  I did have
to shim a bit with a piece of aluminum bar stock so the inside of the bipod
wouldn't rub on the 700x37 tire on her bike, but it works great to keep the
bike stable when the Burley's attached.

--dlloyd



On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 16:43, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> Note: large, heavy, clunky and, since the legs don't retract as fully as
> the Pletscher's, your chain may rub on them, though you can adjust the
> degree to which the legs do retract (or their retracted angle, if you
> prefer) which is what I did to solve the rubbing problem -- there is a set
> screw that allows you to reduce the degree of retraction. But, still, if a
> stand's job is to support a bike, IME, the VO works considerably better than
> the Pletscher.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Child seat recommendations?

[Dave Lloyd]

I was given a BoBike mini (minus the mount, that went with my brother in
law's bike which was, erm, borrowed without permission) but have a
threadless stem on my Big Dummy. Anyone have a line on where to get a
threadless adapter?

For hauling kids, I've used both a trailer and an Xtracycle.  If you just
want to try it out, trailers are widely available, have an active secondary
market (for Burley and Chariot brands, anyway) and can hook up to a variety
of bikes.  Easiest way to add carrying 2 kids to your bike.

That said, I vastly prefer the Xtracycle due to maneuverability. Even with
two big kids on the back, it's still easier to maneuver and feels more
stable than the trailer.  I've also had kids on the back of the Xtracycle
and kids in a trailer (hey, I hauled as many kids as our minivan fits one
day!), which is definitely different.  You're not going anywhere fast that
way.

When hauling kids around, you find yourself far more aware of traffic and
the environment around you, just as Grant mentioned (and as I can confirm)
when riding without a helmet.  You ride more cautiously and are far pickier
about your routes.

I would wager that the AAoP recommendations are aimed towards the general
public, most of whom ride a bicycle  a few times a year around the park or
on a bike trail.  The target audience is likely not biking thousands of
miles each year in a variety of conditions as many of us do.  The easiest
way to survive an accident is to not be involved in one in the first place.
The best way to not be involved in a bicycle accident is knowing how to
handle your bike, how to recover from bad situations and be aware of your
surroundings to avoid bad situations.  I bet that all of us on this list
know how to handle our bicycles, recover (and can remember a few times when
we couldn't or didn't recover and have learned from them), and can know what
to avoid. As such, pick the kid hauling method that lets you ride your bike
like a bike.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Mounting a Mini MagLite as a Headlamp?

[Dave Lloyd]

Conduit clamps fastened back to back with each other:

(look for home made bracket):
http://www.nordicgroup.us/s78/flashlights.html

(my version):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeadave/4174295862/

(my wife's bike):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeadave/3948677475/

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] 59cm XO-3 on ebay

[Dave Lloyd]

This one might be a 55:
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/1584917370.html
(local to me in STL)

--dlloyd



On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 14:09, William  wrote:

> There's a 59cm 1993 XO-3 on ebay.  It's super cheap as of right now
> with 3 days to go.  I'd love to get a 55 for myself to set up as a
> city bike.  There's not much stock on this one, if anything, but the
> XO-3 spec wasn't anything to write home about anyway:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320495024015&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
>
> Affordable Atlantis?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: IGH

[Dave Lloyd]

Oh, that alignment.  Since there's only one way it'll fit, I don't even
think about it much.  Insert wheel, twiddle with cassette joint until anti
rotation washers are aligned properly, stuff washers into dropouts, tension
chain, etc.

It's tedious, but I haven't found it to be overly complicated.  Then again,
I may have a different opinion of complicated from other people.

--dlloyd



On Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 15:20, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:

> On the Nexus/Alfine hubs, the axle needs to be aligned with the
> dropout such that the cable stop arm is pointed forward at an
> appropriate angle. There are color-coded alignment washers on the axle
> for this purpose, and they have to be oriented in the right direction
> as you slide the wheel into the dropouts.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] IGH

[Dave Lloyd]

Axle alignment technique? I haven't heard of that one before. Usually
I just tension the drive side, apply enough torque to hold the
position, screw down the non drive side, tighten the drive side, then
tighten the non drive side. Am I missing something?

On 2010-02-19, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery  wrote:
> IME the Shimano 8sp hubs are just fine, though I recommend regular
> maintenance, since water, grime, and corrosive elements do get in and
> cause problems. If you are accustomed to single speeds and dérailleur
> bikes that are decently maintained, and you are inclined to vigorous
> riding, the IGH may feel like a friction box. I notice that wheels
> with the 8s hubs come quickly to a stop when I give them a spin in my
> truing stand, unlike non IG wheels that spin for a long time. They are
> indeed more troublesome than a single-speed for wheel remove/replace.
> There is a shift cable that may or may not require tools, and there is
> an axle alignment requirement. Obviously, it's a technique one can
> master with practice.
>
> We have sold many IG setups to customers, and many of those customers
> are satisfied. But I choose not to use them on any bike I ride
> regularly.
>
>
>
> On Feb 19, 10:45 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> But does this caution apply to the various 8 speed hubs? At any rate, the
>> supposedly forthcoming 11 is meant for off road.I personally haven't owned
>> a
>> IGH for years except for a few transitory 3 speed grocery beaters that I
>> kept for only a few months, but the thought of a 400% range neatly
>> packaged
>> into a pretty, shiny metal cylinder has me very interested.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Angus  wrote:
>> > Thanks for the input Jim...I was toying with the idea of a 8 speed IGH
>> > on my All-Rounder/Commuter but I think I'll spend my money elsewhere.
>>
>> > Angus
>>
>> > On Feb 18, 7:50 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
>> > wrote:
>> > > One of my more exuberant customers killed his 2nd or 3rd 3-speed hub
>> > > in 2 years. I called the highly regarded manufacturer of the most
>> > > recent one to get another warranty replacement, which it turns out, is
>> > > no longer available (they've never had parts, so we always just
>> > > replace the whole hub). The tech told me that IGHs are for "cruisers
>> > > and other low-torque applications". Anyway, this is about Chapter 20
>> > > of my book of frustrations with IG hubs, which is not polite
>> > > conversation in utility cycling circles, where IGHs are surrounded by
>> > > a sort of religious devotion. So it was with some satisfaction that I
>> > > read today's Riv blog post about IGHs.
>>
>> > --
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>> Albuquerque, NM
>> For professional resumes, contact
>> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com(505) 227-0523
>
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--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Re: IGH

[Dave Lloyd]

Civia has some nice videos in their tech section:
http://www.civiacycles.com/civiaMedia/civiaTech.php

It does take a bit
longer to remove than a wheel with a QR, but I didn't find it horrible by
any stretch of the imagination, and my IGH bike has a roller brake and full
chaincase. The trick to removing the cable from the cassette joint is using
a 2mm allen wrench ot move the cassette joint around to take the tension off
the cable so that you can easily unhook the cable end.  Needle nose pliers
are also handy for removing the housing end from the cassette joint.

What would be truly nice is if shops that sold bikes equipped with IGHs
would give their customers demos on how to remove the rear wheel.  I was
able to figure it out, but not everyone is mechanically minded the same way
I am.

For city riding, I really like the IGH.  Really a hop on and ride sort of
utility bike, no thinking about what pants you're wearing, if the drivetrain
is gunked up, etc. with the bike I have. Plus, shifting at stoplights is
truly great.

That said, I will be selling my IGH bike (anyone interested in a gently used
Trek L200?) since I find I just don't ride anything but my Xtracycle these
days.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Christmas Loot

[Dave Lloyd]

I've got that workstand.  Very nice, easy to use, sets up and collapses
quickly and easily.  Plus, it's extra sturdy.  It holds my Xtracycle with no
complaints. The biggest problem I heavy bikes is, well, hoisting them up
there.

Happy holidays!

--dlloyd



On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 12:42, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Santa brought me a workstand and a teeny tiny bike.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157622943604959/
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of Cork grips…

[Dave Lloyd]

This is like paste wax for furniture.  From my experience with putting paste
wax on wood, the feel is more, well, tactile than slippery.  I guess that's
the best way I can describe it.

--dlloyd



On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 23:42, charlie  wrote:

> The look can be modified with wood stains before shellacking. The
> initial feel can be a little tacky at first but soon smooths out as
> you ride them. I wouldn't use wax, it can be slippery when really cold
> (think downhill skis) and melts to a gooey mess in the extreme heat.
> What I want in a grip is wellgrip! Thats my opinion and I'm
> "sticking" to it!
>  I'll almost bet Grant and gang thought this one through at least a
> little bit and considered other options.
>
> On Nov 28, 4:27 pm, Ray  wrote:
> > Funny the cork grip thing came up (Great tactile minds think alike?).
> > I was going to post the following question:
> >
> > What range of treatment do tou cork users put on the product?  I have
> > typically shellaced mine, but I'm always disappointed afterwards with
> > the feel and look. Certainly I know you can use them just as untreated
> > cork, but what about alternatives to shellac or varnish?  I'm thinking
> > bee's wax, linseed, or. . . (help me out, folks)
> >
> > Ray
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of Cork grips…

[Dave Lloyd]

In that case, I'd try the paste wax.  Easy to touch up, too.

You could try one thin coat of shellac on the cork, then paste wax on top of
that as well.

--dlloyd



On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 22:33, Ray Shine  wrote:

> That's sorta what I had in mind, some sort of wax or rubbed in treatment. A
> light touch.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Glue for cork grips

[Dave Lloyd]

I've used 3M's super 77 spray adhesive twice now, but that's mostly because
I had a can in the basement.  Downside is overspray, but that tends to clean
up pretty easy with mineral spirits as long as you catch it early enough.

--dlloyd

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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of Cork grips…

[Dave Lloyd]

Anything about it you don't like in particular?  Cork can take about any
finish you can put on wood, it just may soak up more of it (depending on
what the finish is).  I suppose you could coat it in marine spar vanish for
the ultimate in all weather durability, but at $15 a set, it may not be
worth the time.

I find shellac to be more, well, tactile and grippy than other finishes I've
put on cork or wood in the past (my main other experience with finishing
cork is installing floors).  You could try good ol' paste wax.  Cheap at the
hardware store.  Just rub in and buff off, and re-live your inner Karate
Kid.

--dlloyd



On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 22:24, Ray Shine  wrote:

> But, that's my dilemma.  I don't like feel of shellac. . .
>
> --- On *Sat, 11/28/09, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> *wrote:
>
>
> From: Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Speaking of Cork grips…
>
> To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 2009, 7:50 PM
>
>
> Get 'em dirty with a few hundred miles of riding, then shellac.
>
> On Nov 28, 6:27 pm, Ray 
> http://mc/compose?to=r.sh...@sbcglobal.net>>
> wrote:
> > Funny the cork grip thing came up (Great tactile minds think alike?).
> > I was going to post the following question:
> >
> > What range of treatment do tou cork users put on the product?  I have
> > typically shellaced mine, but I'm always disappointed afterwards with
> > the feel and look. Certainly I know you can use them just as untreated
> > cork, but what about alternatives to shellac or varnish?  I'm thinking
> > bee's wax, linseed, or. . . (help me out, folks)
> >
> > Ray
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: wool-friendly detergents for HE washers

[Dave Lloyd]

If you can find it, I've used Bio-Pac with great success.

That said, here's the secret about HE detergents and front loading washers:
you need less soap.  A lot less.  Seriously.  For our Bosch, we kept having
error after error after a google search revealed that Bosch tech support had
told some customers that the manual was incorrect.  You only need a
tablespoon or two of liquid detergent, vary with the load size of course.
Once we drastically reduced our soap usage, the problems went away and our
clothes still got clean.  Problem solved and our laundry detergent lasts
much longer now.

The word was that Bosch never officially recommended that little detergent
in the documentation as most customers would never believe that such a small
amount of detergent would work.

--dlloyd
"I don't know what utopia will be like exactly, but it will have bicycles."
-- Frank Barron


On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 14:58, Eric  wrote:

>
> I've had luck with garden-variety detergents like Tide for my wool
> clothing. Use cold water and the Delicate cycle.
>
> --Eric Norris
> Sent from my iPhone 3G*S*
>
> On Jul 27, 2009, at 12:26 PM, Bill Rhea  wrote:
>
> >
> > I recently got a new High Efficiency washer to replace our 15+ year-
> > old Kenmore when it died.
> >
> > Because of their low water use and the way they agitate, you're
> > supposed to use HE-type soap to keep things from foaming up too much
> >
> > I have always used Ivory Snow detergent for my wools and have had OK
> > luck, but am uncertain what to use in the new HE machine for my
> > woolies.  Any suggestions?
> >
> > -br
> > >
>
> >
>

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[RBW] P-clamps may become difficult to obtain?

[Dave Lloyd]

I bet that this is for p-clamps made with PVC.  PVC needs a bit of lead in
it (think wire insulation) to make it flexible.  Both PVC and lead are nasty
things and have some not so nice byproducts and health hazards in the
manufacturing process (look up the Doe Run smelter on the 'net; it's just a
bit south of my fair city of St. Louis).  I'd wager that the silicone coated
P clamps are still in ample supply.  McMaster Carr will likely have
stainless P clamps with a silicone cushion in whatever size you need.

--dlloyd

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[RBW] Toe in or not toe in

[Dave Lloyd]

Denatured alcohol (cheap at any hardware or paint store) and a cast off
scotch brite from the kitchen work well for me.  Clean up with a rag
moistened with fresh alcohol and you're done.

You may want to wear gloves since the alcohol will dry your hands out and
any little nicks will sting like the dickens.

--dlloyd



On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 15:44, Seth Vidal  wrote:

>
> On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 4:38 PM, Garth  wrote:
> >
> > Have you tried cleaning your rims really well? ...like squeaky clean.
> >
>
> What's the best suggested cleaning agent? Just alcohol?
>
> -sv
>
> >
>

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