Re: [RBW] Options for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to thumbies?

[reca...@gmail.com]

I use the MicroShift road thumb shifter mounts with the silver shifters. 

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=106560

They are very nicely made, work great, and the pair comes in at less than 
$40. 

On Sunday, November 12, 2023 at 7:46:05 PM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> If you are eager to acquire the X and O thumbie mounts that Rivendell 
> sells and want to pay less than 45 dollars each for them, maybe just say 
> how much you want to spend, and maybe somebody who has a set will sell them 
> to you.  Or maybe you have something that retails for $90 that you no 
> longer want and you could trade?  There are ways to shake things loose in 
> this community.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Saturday, November 11, 2023 at 11:53:51 AM UTC-8 modemm...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Yeah, the Riv ones I knew about. 90 bucks just to mount shifters is 
>> really expensive, though. I was hoping there was another option LOL. Maybe 
>> some will come up used. 
>>
>> On Saturday, November 11, 2023 at 11:26:47 AM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:
>>
>>> As near as I know the only game in town are the mounts sold by Riv for 
>>> that exact purpose, which you must be familiar with but I’ll link here 
>>> anyhow: https://www.rivbike.com/products/z558mz-cnv-oialk. Paul used to 
>>> sell adapters for their Thumbie mounts, but they are neither 1. cheap nor 
>>> 2. currently in production, so would require some scrounging. 
>>>
>>> Jay Lonner
>>> Bellingham, WA
>>>
>>> Sent from my Atari 400
>>>
>>> On Nov 11, 2023, at 8:13 AM, Jon Craig (Vendraen)  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> So what options exist for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to 
>>> thumbies? That don't cost a fortune - $60-$70 per shifter seems just crazy 
>>> honestly. Is there anything more reasonable? 
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Homer Hilsen: Braking performance

[reca...@gmail.com]

I also use them and find them to work nearly as well as the higher-end 
brakes I've had. I combine them with a good lever and use kool stop pads 
they work great. That being said, I have never used them with road-style 
levers. 

carlos

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 9:55:11 PM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:

> Thanks again all. I’ll check out the coated cables/housing. I’ve also used 
> Jagwire Pro before with good results. 
>
> If I end up with a Homer, I’ll most likely use it with something like 
> Albatross or Bosco’s so it’d be mtb style short pull levers. 
>
> For those that are knowledgeable about these brakes. I have a pair on 
> hand. What I’ve noticed is a fairly heavy/stuff return spring. Anyone know 
> if lighter springs are available? I’m not sure if I dare try bending the 
> spring. I’d think the lighter action would help with better feel. 
>
> On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 8:02:06 PM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> @Jason Fuller:
>>
>> Good question on which handlebar type are we setting the brake lever with 
>> (TRP RRL + Tektro 559).  We've become big fans of Ritchey Logic "Beacon" 
>> drop type gravel bars (here 
>> ).
>>   
>> They have 36 degrees of flare - some folks might find it severe while 
>> others find it ergonomic.  For us, very easy to brake from either the hoods 
>> or the drops (the severe flare places the brake levers in a much more ergo 
>> position).  Combine the short reach and shallow drop, it makes it comfy (at 
>> least for us) in either position (along with the other available positions).
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff & Lori
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 4:18:50 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> What handlebar type are you setting it up with?  If going with a bar 
>>> that uses MTB style levers such as Albatross, I would be much less 
>>> concerned, because you have much better ergonomic mechanical advantage at 
>>> the lever vs. being on the hoods of a drop bar lever.  I don't believe 
>>> you'll have any issue, and if you did, you could rectify with either better 
>>> pads or going to Paul Racers as mentioned. Then you're certainly well set 
>>> up for mountains - after all Jan Heine prefers centerpulls over other types 
>>> of brakes for his wet, mountain pass-heavy and mixed surface riding. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, 26 April 2023 at 01:27:52 UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>>
 I’m window shopping for the next project and was interested in the 
 Homer. Great looking frame. My only concern is the brakes. I live in a 
 pretty mountainous area. Meaning plenty of long, fast descents. 

 Those of you with Homers, how have you liked or disliked the brakes? Do 
 the 559’s give you adequate performance to descend with confidence? One 
 thing I do like about caliper brakes are how easy they are to set up and 
 adjust. 
 Thanks for any input. 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PONCHOS!!!

[reca...@gmail.com]

I've used the waxed canvas Carradice poncho for a little while now. It 
works great and have been pleasantly surprised with how durable the waxing 
has been. The only downsides I see are that it's a bit heavy to carry 
around off the bike and the straps can be a little fussy to use. The only 
other thing that keeps me from recommending it to everyone is that if you 
ride upright bars like any of the Riv variants, the water will pool between 
the bars. Not a big deal but it happens as these seem to be designed more 
for drop bars? All minor niggles for me in the end as it works better than 
any rain jacket I've used. 

carlos

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 10:55:55 AM UTC-6 Stephen wrote:

> I just got my first bike poncho recently from a list member after being 
> poncho curious for awhile. Its the yellow grundens variety that Rivendell 
> used to sell but I do not think it is made anymore. It has served me very 
> well in the few pours I've worn it in, along with fenders being crucial. 
> When I was looking at purchasing a poncho new I was leaning towards the 
> waxed canvas one made by Carradice as I try to avoid plastics and 
> synthetics, the only downsides to it being a drab and dark color for urban 
> riding, and potentially a little heavier. For my basket I've just used my 
> sackville shop sack, and haven't had anything too important in the bag. 
> Water definitely gets in the zipper opening. I've thought a shop sack 
> combined with a smaller backpack style rain cover over the top like a 
> shower cap would be a good combo for keeping things dry.
>
> -Stephen
>
> On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 10:02:10 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Dazzle camo on a rain cape is a bold move! I love it! Those drivers can’t 
>> tell how big or small you are, or what direction you’re headed… might as 
>> well mess with ‘em!
>>
>> On Mar 6, 2023, at 8:42 PM, Roberta  wrote:
>>
>> More riding to you!  ponchos are great for short jaunts.
>>
>>
>>  I don’t like riding in the rain but if it’s not too bad I’ll ride home 
>> from work wearing my CleverHood Cape, dazzle print in the tall size for 
>> more coverage 
>> https://cleverhood.com/products/rover-rain-cape?variant=40416266715341  
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>>
>> On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 5:57:13 PM UTC-5 ack...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all, 
>>> Rainy season is almost over in the Bay Area, but I'm going to be try and 
>>> be more prepared next year.  I am looking at ponchos, and I have decided 
>>> that the PEOPLE'S PONCHO is the one I'm going to buy.  But, I'd love to 
>>> hear/see what everybody else is rocking for their rainy day full coverage 
>>> (including front basket and bag) rain gear.  I know there are going to be 
>>> varied responses here, but I'm hoping we can focus on PONCHOS
>>>
>>> Thanks for reading,
>>> Alex
>>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS/FT: Large Rivendell Sackville SaddleSack

[reca...@gmail.com]

Still available and lowering the price to $160+shipping.


On Wednesday, December 29, 2021 at 12:34:10 PM UTC-5 reca...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> I have an essentially new large blue SaddleSack. This is the model before 
> the Baggabong bag. I used it once for a very short ride and realized I 
> would need a rack for heavier loads and didn't want to bother. Like new. 
> $170+Ship (probably around $20). I am pretty open regarding trades so I 
> will consider most things. Thanks!
>
> More photos here: https://recarcar.tumblr.com/post/670843231295225856/bags
>
> Carlos
> Brooklyn
>

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[RBW] WTB: Susie Longbolts Medium/Large

[reca...@gmail.com]

It's a long shot but I am looking for a M or L Susie, preferably L. If 
anyone had one they might like to part with, please let me know. Thank you!

Best,
Carlos


 

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[RBW] Re: Seat bag security

[reca...@gmail.com]

As Alan mentioned, stainless steel zip ties work great to secure bags and 
when I was living in Oakland (if I left anything on the bike unsecured 
there it would almost always get snagged), these came in very handy. I 
started using hiplock's ties recently as they are easy to take on and off 
but they are probably less secure than the stainless zip ties. 

carlos
Brooklyn, NY
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:27:37 AM UTC-4 alan lavine wrote:

>
> Another option is stainless steel zip ties, placed where they are 
> obviously noticeable.  Very difficult to cut with diagonal pliers but easy 
> to cut with sharp surgical sissorsthat's the dirty little secret.  But 
> it looks impressive.  Available on line at Home Depot.
>
> Alan NYC
> On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 3:58:58 PM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> In the big city, I usually ride with one Ortlieb bag on the left, then 
>> take it with me wherever I go. They're light enough to carry only a few 
>> items in, and it expands in case I go to a store and buy some snacks. The 
>> quick release is always reliable for me.
>>
>> The Sackville bags are nice, but I wouldn't risk one getting stolen. 
>>
>> m
>>
>> On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 2:19:15 PM UTC-4 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>>
>>> When I lived in Chicago and used a Carradice I would pair it with a 
>>> Pletscher rear rack with a mousetrap. When I parked the bike I would open 
>>> the mousetrap over the bag and then use a little padlock to lock a loop on 
>>> the bag to the mousetrap. It was an easy lockup trick and nobody every 
>>> messed with it. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 12:37:36 PM UTC-5 Greg J wrote:
>>>
 On my Bart bike (which I leave at the station all day during non-covid 
 times), I loop a thin braided steel cable (like 2-3mm diameter, ~10" long) 
 through the bag and the seatpost binder bolt.  These were typically used 
 to 
 theft-deter quick release seat posts.  On at least a couple of occasions, 
 I 
 found my bag (just a cheap Jannd, but still, I don't want it stolen) 
 hanging off the bike but still attached because the thief couldn't just 
 walk off with it.  Of course, I don't leave anything valuable in the bag, 
 and you could pretty easily cut through the cable if you were determined.

 Greg

 On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 7:16:09 AM UTC-7 zem...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've always wanted to attach a fancy Sackville bag to my bike, but I 
> live in Toronto where stuff gets stolen off your bike all the time. So 
> I've 
> resigned myself to only using bike parts I can bolt down.
>
> Anyone else deal with this? Any suggestions for locking down or 
> otherwise securing seat bags? 
>
> Cheers!
>
> Zack
> Toronto, Canada
>


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[RBW] Re: Shimano discontinuing rim-brake hubs?

[reca...@gmail.com]

Obviously you can run disc hubs with rim brake rims, but hub spacing would 
play a role depending on your rear hub spacing if running a disc hub. I 
wouldn't spread say a 130mm rear triangle to fit a 142mm hub. Hopefully, 
Shimano will provide interchangeable endcaps but I don't foresee a future 
where good rim brake hubs are not around. 

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 1:35:44 PM UTC-4 Christopher Cote wrote:

> There is no practical reason at all that you couldn't run a disc-brake hub 
> with a rim-brake rim. Maybe you can make a valid objection for aesthetic 
> reasons, but it's hardly a reason for concern, IMHO. 
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:01:36 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Per Grant's blog:
>>
>> *Shimano is going to stop making  middle-to-upper end non-disc brake hubs 
>> soon, road and mountain. *
>>
>> Thank God there is always Phil Wood. And no doubt vast quantities of old 
>> Shimano rim-brake hubs buried in garages worldwide.
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Regrets

[reca...@gmail.com]

I've not regretted getting rid of almost any bike I've had as I learn more 
and as my riding style and preferences change, but the only bike I regret 
selling was a Jitensha Studios Shula. 

On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 3:56:06 PM UTC-4 Damien wrote:

> In my seemingly endless search to optimize my bike collection, fill gaps, 
> and try new and cool bikes, I recently realized how many bikes I've had in 
> my life and how many questionable decisions I've made. There are a number 
> of choices I've made, for better or worse, to sell bikes in order to make 
> room for other bikes, downsize, or simply because I felt they weren't 
> getting the use they deserved.
>
> My question to the group is: what bike or bikes do you most regret 
> selling, trading, or giving away?  
>
> For me, as you may know, I absolutely regret selling my Roadini, and an 
> old Marinoni touring bike that I originally thought was too big for me (I 
> realize now how wrong I was, and am currently in the process of replacing 
> it!).
>
> Would love to hear what regrets others here have!
>
> <3
> Damien
>

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[RBW] Re: Can an 11speed cassette fit on an 8-9-10 hub

[reca...@gmail.com]

I run this setup on my bikes and will work if your setup is as outlined by 
philipr. I use friction shiting also and it works fine with 11 speed. 

I run friction shifting out of mere convenience as it's plug and play and 
just easier to maintain, but it has definitely worked fine for me with an 
11-speed cassette. Even my old 7-speed era dura-ace friction shifters work 
really smoothly and nicely with my 11-speed. setups

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:29:44 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:

> I’m sure this has been covered before but I’ll ask anyway. 
> Using. 135mm mountain hub from Shimano, will an 11 speed cassette work?
> I’m considering a 1x drivetrain and would prefer to use a hub I already 
> have. 
>
> Secondly, it looks like SRAM and Shimano both make/made 11 speed rear 
> derailers. 
> Anyone have their preferences?
>  Does friction shifting become ludicrous at 11?
>
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie/Wolbis Front-Center Question

[reca...@gmail.com]

Thanks, all! I was wondering if it had something to do with wanting to get 
the handlebars higher and the shallow head tube angle. I wonder if people 
are generally also using these with shorter stems? All this was just to see 
what people's riding experiences have been in terms of handling. I'll just 
have to build a susie/wolbishish bike to test for myself, though not sure 
where to find chainstays that long! Thanks again all!

On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 5:39:11 PM UTC-4 Shoji Takahashi wrote:

> Hi, 
> I think F-C is an important parameter for Grant's designs. Here's a 
> thread: 
> https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/dW25Rl2Qf3M/m/FL_RhSQwAwAJ
>
> I think Joe's point about the type of handlebar to which he's designing 
> the frame around is important, and has permitted him to expand F-C over the 
> years in other models. 
>
> Grant designs for where he rides (and how he rides). If your ride 
> conditions are different, it might not work as well for you. Longer chain 
> stays probably help quite a bit on steep hard-pack dirt for climbing and 
> descending. East Bay trails aren't rooted like New England trails, so 
> popping up front wheel or other MTB-maneuvers isn't as important. For me, 
> my low-trail bike washes out on loose dirt trails compared to my Riv. 
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
> Arlington MA
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:39:33 PM UTC-4 reca...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> Since I've been *very* slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the 
>> past few years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some 
>> geometries work for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to 
>> appreciate the method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using 
>> front-center as a guide for putting together a frame geometry with relation 
>> to getting the rider's weight distribution the way they want it (i.e. 
>> getting the bike to ride and fit the way one wants).
>>
>> A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the 
>> following method (paraphrased):
>>
>>
>>1. pick the trail you want
>>2. pick where you want your wheels to be
>>3. pick BB height
>>4. make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired 
>>position(s) through HT length, stem, bars, etc.
>>
>> So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more 
>> upright and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to 
>> accommodate this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the 
>> front-center length of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of 
>> making the total wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and 
>> corresponding fork offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most 
>> importantly is, what are the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it 
>> still handle in the way that most other high-trail bikes characteristically 
>> do? I ask because I am really interested in this design, understand the 
>> benefits of longer chainstays especially for my kind of more upright 
>> position and preferred weight distribution, but have still found that my 
>> favorite kind of bike that I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center, 
>> lowish trail, and a  front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the 
>> Susie. I am by no means a low trail evangelist, so  I guess what I am 
>> looking for are some impressions in terms of front-end handling of the 
>> bike? 
>>
>> Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the discussions) if this 
>> has been covered here before. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Susie/Wolbis Front-Center Question

[reca...@gmail.com]

Hello All,

Since I've been *very* slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the past 
few years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some 
geometries work for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to 
appreciate the method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using 
front-center as a guide for putting together a frame geometry with relation 
to getting the rider's weight distribution the way they want it (i.e. 
getting the bike to ride and fit the way one wants).

A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the 
following method (paraphrased):


   1. pick the trail you want
   2. pick where you want your wheels to be
   3. pick BB height
   4. make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired position(s) 
   through HT length, stem, bars, etc.

So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more 
upright and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to 
accommodate this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the 
front-center length of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of 
making the total wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and 
corresponding fork offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most 
importantly is, what are the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it 
still handle in the way that most other high-trail bikes characteristically 
do? I ask because I am really interested in this design, understand the 
benefits of longer chainstays especially for my kind of more upright 
position and preferred weight distribution, but have still found that my 
favorite kind of bike that I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center, 
lowish trail, and a  front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the 
Susie. I am by no means a low trail evangelist, so  I guess what I am 
looking for are some impressions in terms of front-end handling of the 
bike? 

Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the discussions) if this has 
been covered here before. 

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[RBW] WTB: Large Sackville Saddle Bag or Something Similar

[reca...@gmail.com]

Hello All,

Looking to buy a Sackville Baggabond or large Sackville saddle bag. I am 
also open to any other large capacity saddle or handlebar bag. Let me know 
if anyone has anything they would like to sell. I am pretty open in terms 
of color but would like a large capacity bag. Thanks!

Carlos

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