Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-17 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Fantastic! That chain arm looks like a much better position in the big cog. 
Yowza, that’s a big cog. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-17 Thread Matt C.
I approve of your bike based on looks alone!! Great looking bike. I hope the 
fix holds up. Happy riding.

Matt Cook
Ledyard, CT 

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread Kurt Manley
I run the exact cassette you have with a Shimano XT M772 rear derailleur 
and it works reasonably well. I think the derailleur you're using might not 
have clearance for a 40t ( i know on paper it doesn't but in rear world 
they can work). The M772 technically doesn't either but it does clear. If 
that's what you've been offered up I'd recommend trying it. The 772 hangs a 
bit lower with it's longer bracket.

On Sunday, December 9, 2018 at 7:48:16 AM UTC-8, William R. wrote:
>
> Ok. I did go out this morning to test the new setup. Quite cold this 
> morning in the north east. I sought out every climb I could think of to 
> stay warm and test the 40t cog. All was going great until it wasn't! Smooth 
> shifting, no noise, a good climbing gear. And then wammo! Low speed, 
> mid-climb and "SNAP!" suddenly I was pedaling air. On initial inspection it 
> was clear that my chain had broken. Right where I added the four cogs. 
> Secondary inspection revealed that the upper pulley wheel had come into 
> contact with the 40t cog and had veered to the inside, dumping my chain 
> into the gap between cog and spokes. I think that is what really caused the 
> chain to break, but at it's weakest point, where I joined it to make it 
> longer. On further recall I think I hit a pretty good bump right when this 
> happened. Perhaps all was well at first because I had just enough distance 
> with the b-tension screw to keep things smooth and quiet until I hit a bump 
> and that caused the upper pulley to hit the cog and for all hell to ensue.
>
> Three thoughts:
>
> 1.) Gee, maybe I do need a longer b-tension screw to move the upper pulley 
> away from the 40t cog.
> 2.) Maybe I should try a "shadow" derailleur. One has been offered to me 
> at a very reasonable price (thanks Joe!)
> 3.) Maybe Deacon Patrick is right and I should give up the ghost and go 
> back to my original set up and walking.
>
> What would you do?
>
> A couple shots from pre-ride-wreaking chain break. 2nd shot is the hill 
> the chain broke on. Yeah, that one up there...
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>
> [image: IMG_1052.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1053.jpeg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Another thought, one which doesn’t offer any specific answers but is a general 
principle I came to in my drivetrain quest: the drivetrain takes constant 
pressure and even more on climbs and even more shifting while climbing. It’s 
well worth getting a system that isn’t jury rigged to function, but instead is 
being used as it was intended, if that makes sense.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread Steve Palincsar


On 12/9/18 12:50 PM, William R. wrote:
Option "4.)"! Thanks Steve. I had no idea such a thing existed. And I 
will check the spokes. Thanks.


To be clear, this device simply lowers the derailleurs attachment 
point to the bike? Does the Shimano Shadow type derailleur do this as 
well or does this Wolf Tooth component do it better by lowering the 
attachment point even more?



The Road Link is intended to extend the range of a derailleur not meant 
or designed for such large sprockets, by lowering the attachment point.  
Basically, it extends the length of the derailleur hanger.  Think of it 
as a drop-bolt for a road-type rear derailleur.   According to WolfTooth 
documentation, the RoadLink is not intended for use on the most recent 
MTB rear derailleurs: WolfTooth has other products, "GoatLink and 
GoatLink 11 which are specifically designed for Shimano Shadow+ 10 speed 
rear derailleurs (clutch type ONLY) which have a Direct Mount link 
(including spacer, if so equipped) or B-pivot knuckle with a thickness 
of 7.9-8.1mm.  Shimano changed to this sometime in 2013. Very early 
Shadow+ rear derailleurs have a thinner link and are not compatible." 
[from WolfTooth web site]


If the question is, how do the MTB type derailleurs designed for huge 
sprockets do it, that I can't say.   Likewise, I can't say if a Shadow 
rear derailleur can handle a 40T rear sprocket.  That's well beyond my 
knowledge base.  I haven't personally used a RoadLink either, but I have 
read a good deal about them on the Paceline & VSalon forums, where they 
are well regarded, with many happy satisfied users.



Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread William!
Yep, the RoadLink just lowers the derailleur so it is further from the cog. 
It works great for some, others have reported that it works but shifting to 
the largest cog isn't as smooth as it could be.

If you are considering a new derailleur, get one that officially supports 
larger cogs. These derailleurs are designed for 1x setups, so as a bonus 
they will typically have a clutch as well (which will help make it harder 
to drop your chain). Not all Shadow type derailleurs support larger cogs, 
and generally long cage derailleurs do not (but you are running 1x so no 
need for a long cage anyway). I don't know of any 9 speed mech that 
officially supports large cogs, and I know of exactly one 10 speed mech:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m6000/RD-M6000-GS.html

Note that the long cage (SGS) version of this derailleur does *not* support 
larger cogs. Only the GS version got the new large-cog-frienly cage design.

William

On Sunday, December 9, 2018 at 9:50:46 AM UTC-8, William R. wrote:
>
> Option "4.)"! Thanks Steve. I had no idea such a thing existed. And I will 
> check the spokes. Thanks.
>
> To be clear, this device simply lowers the derailleurs attachment point to 
> the bike? Does the Shimano Shadow type derailleur do this as well or does 
> this Wolf Tooth component do it better by lowering the attachment point 
> even more?
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Steve’s idea looks good, Bill. Also, I learned the hard way to only use 
quicklinks when extending a chain, never a chain tool. With narrow chains (7-8 
speed and above) it’s just too hard to get the pin back in correctly. Of 
course, triple check the quicklink to ensure it is fully clicked into place.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread William R.
Option "4.)"! Thanks Steve. I had no idea such a thing existed. And I will 
check the spokes. Thanks.

To be clear, this device simply lowers the derailleurs attachment point to 
the bike? Does the Shimano Shadow type derailleur do this as well or does 
this Wolf Tooth component do it better by lowering the attachment point 
even more?

Bill in Westchester, NY

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 12/9/18 10:48 AM, William R. wrote:
Ok. I did go out this morning to test the new setup. Quite cold this 
morning in the north east. I sought out every climb I could think of 
to stay warm and test the 40t cog. All was going great until it 
wasn't! Smooth shifting, no noise, a good climbing gear. And then 
wammo! Low speed, mid-climb and "SNAP!" suddenly I was pedaling air. 
On initial inspection it was clear that my chain had broken. Right 
where I added the four cogs. Secondary inspection revealed that the 
upper pulley wheel had come into contact with the 40t cog and had 
veered to the inside, dumping my chain into the gap between cog and 
spokes.



Carefully inspect the spokes where that happened.  It's possible the 
chain damaged the spokes when it fell behind the cassette -- I've had 
that happen -- and they may break later on.  If you see any signs of 
damage you might save yourself an awkward situation by having the spokes 
replaced before you're left stranded.



--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-09 Thread Steve Palincsar


On 12/9/18 10:48 AM, William R. wrote:
Ok. I did go out this morning to test the new setup. Quite cold this 
morning in the north east. I sought out every climb I could think of 
to stay warm and test the 40t cog. All was going great until it 
wasn't! Smooth shifting, no noise, a good climbing gear. And then 
wammo! Low speed, mid-climb and "SNAP!" suddenly I was pedaling air. 
On initial inspection it was clear that my chain had broken. Right 
where I added the four cogs. Secondary inspection revealed that the 
upper pulley wheel had come into contact with the 40t cog and had 
veered to the inside, dumping my chain into the gap between cog and 
spokes. I think that is what really caused the chain to break, but at 
it's weakest point, where I joined it to make it longer. On further 
recall I think I hit a pretty good bump right when this happened. 
Perhaps all was well at first because I had just enough distance with 
the b-tension screw to keep things smooth and quiet until I hit a bump 
and that caused the upper pulley to hit the cog and for all hell to 
ensue.


Three thoughts:

1.) Gee, maybe I do need a longer b-tension screw to move the upper 
pulley away from the 40t cog.
2.) Maybe I should try a "shadow" derailleur. One has been offered to 
me at a very reasonable price (thanks Joe!)
3.) Maybe Deacon Patrick is right and I should give up the ghost and 
go back to my original set up and walking.



Wolf Tooth Road Link

   /The RoadLink™ derailleur hanger extension is a unique patented
   device that offsets the position of your road derailleur to make it
   possible to run a wide-range mountain bike style cassette. It is an
   ideal solution for riders looking to convert their road, gravel,
   cyclocross, or commuter drivetrain bike to attain the simplicity and
   reduced weight of a single front chainring but without giving up the
   gear range of a double. It is also great for riders with double
   chainring bikes that want lower gearing for those ultra steep
   climbs. It does not compromise the shifting in the smaller cogs of
   the cassette but yet it enables the derailleur to work with as large
   as a 40T cassette.   --
   
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/derailleur-optimization/products/roadlink
   /

RoadLink


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Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-08 Thread William R.
Good advice Patrick! I did consider going down to a 36t chainring. And if this 
new cassette is less than hoped I may yet. Or like you say, go back to the way 
I had it in the first place and just LCG it when pedaling is no longer optimal! 
Now that I consider it, I’m beginning to wonder what I was thinking. Oh well, 
as long as it’s on and all set up, I might as well try it and see how it goes 
;-).

Bill in Westchester, NY

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-08 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Alternatives to the excellent advice already given:

— keep the old cassette (or get one that goes to 36) and switch to a 36 
chainring. How much do you use the 11t? Test it by riding one gear up (lower 
gearing) on the downhills and see how you do. You’ll max out and coast a bit 
sooner is all.
— keep the entire old setup and walk a bit more often as you get stronger in 
that low gear.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa 1x9 issue/question

2018-12-08 Thread William R.
Thanks. I did add four links and turned to b screw all the way in. All is 
working well in the stand. Test ride hopefully later today. Thanks again 
all for the input.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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