Re: [TANKS] Battery deal

[Michael Butts]

LiFePo4 (aka LiFe) batteries are as rugged (in my experience) as lead acid/ gel 
cell batteries without as significant a weight penalty. 
Mike B

> On Jan 30, 2017, at 9:56 AM, Loic  wrote:
> 
> Will,
>  
> I found out with the RC Commission Sherman tank that 5000mAh LiPo batteries 
> have a fairly short life on the battlefield. I had to revert to the 12V 20Ahr 
> batteries (lead acid). I’m hearing that higher mAhr batteries are available 
> in LiPo form
> Would love to hear about your build up of your FOA RC Panther!
>  
> Happy Modeling!
> Loic Anthian
> http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com
>  
>  
> 
>  
>  
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Re: [TANKS] Re: EV warrior

[Michael Butts]

I have a pair of EV warrior motors graciously sent to me by John P(?), if I 
remember right. They are mounted in a chain driven reduction gearbox. It is a 
sturdy and fairly compact package.

It has been a couple years and I have made very little headway on my project 
due to the complications of military service (Navy). Stuck at the planning 
phase. This thread inspires me to pass along the generosity. I will be back 
home from a short trip in mid September and could perhaps send them to a new 
home where they could be utilized sooner.

I am also now on the west coast again (San Diego). I bet I could flat rate box 
them to anywhere.

Thanks,
Mike Butts

> On Aug 30, 2016, at 3:10 PM, TyngTech  wrote:
> 
> Might be interested in the motors and wiring harnesses.
> 
> ST
> 
>> On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 7:55:41 PM UTC-4, su100t34 wrote:
>> I have to complete EV warrior bicycle I no longer have space for. Anyone 
>> interested. No batteries ran last time it had them.
>> 
>> Will
> 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Michael Butts]

Perhaps then his tracks would be best applied in "feather weight" vehicles and 
in vehicles operating on better groomed/smoother surfaces? Would it be 
potentially feasible in a 50lb tank with a very robust tensioning system? 
Mike Butts

> On Oct 29, 2015, at 1:09 PM, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
> 
> Derek's experience is the rule, not the exception.
> 
> Based on my experience (which goes back to the original dual-chain bicycle 
> track) and the collective experience of everyone who has built, tested and 
> battled such designs in the last 15 years, the dual-chain design is far more 
> problematic than either a single-chain design or a link-drive design.  
> Lateral forces on the track immediately cause the chains to skew, which 
> increases the likelihood of jumping one of the chains off a sprocket tooth in 
> rough terrain.  Guide horns help decrease the likelihood, but doesn't 
> decrease it enough to make the tracks reliable enough in our world (which is, 
> by far, the toughest test of scale tracks).
> 
> When it comes to chain designs, size matters.  Based on quite a few people 
> who have tried such an approach over the years, #40 chain is too small and 
> not rigid enough to be used as either a single-chain or dual-chain track 
> design in our operating scale and terrain.  On the other hand, #60 chain is 
> so rigid that it has proven very reliable when used in a single-chain design, 
> thereby eliminating the need for a dual-chain design.
> 
> That said, the design being discussed is the first time someone has used pins 
> that go from one side of the track to the other, using the track pad itself 
> to keep the pins parallel.  This *could* provide the rigidity needed to 
> prevent chain skew in a hard turn, thereby preventing a dreaded derailment.  
> I say *could* because it all comes down to the stiffness of the plastic pads 
> and the amount of sideways movement allowed between the pads and the pins.  
> No amount of calculation or workbench testing will provide the required 
> answers.  The track needs to be installed on a tank chassis and driven 
> through the roughest terrain possible by an operator skilled in abusing 
> vehicles to determine if the design is reliable or not.
> 
> Battlefield-tested isn't a marketing slogan.
> 
>> On 10/29/2015 12:26 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>> I believe I said the tracks might have issues staying on since they are
>> similar to my design that I abandoned because they didn't stay on in
>> high stress due to lack of the center guides.  Even with the center
>> guides, mine flexed too much side to side so they still came off the
>> sprockets.
> 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Michael Butts]

If I recall correctly, a while back he petitioned anyone building a tank to 
help him out with testing. He never got much of a response. I told him I would 
be happy to help but my timeline is pretty long and I'm still in the planning 
stage. I have seen a successful metal hulled, suspended, and roller chain 
tracked tank on YouTube. I believe it was a 1/10 scale Leclerc. The fella drove 
it with him standing on top of it. And also had a video (from a side mounted 
camera) showing the suspension articulation and track movement while driving it 
around. Seemed pretty solid. I would say that if he is committed to roller 
chain then he can make it work reliably. I also believe that rc tank combat is 
not the only market he is aiming at.
Mike Butts



Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 26, 2015, at 7:20 AM, TyngTech  wrote:
> 
> Pretty website but has this track been tested with a 120lb tank neutral 
> turning in tall grass yet?  Reason I ask is that without guide horns I think 
> this track will run off the drive sprocket (especially with a suspended 
> tank).  The first gen tanks used chain tracks (with wood slats) and slipping 
> off the drive sprockets was the issue with them if I recall.
> 
> ST
> 
>> On Sunday, October 25, 2015 at 6:49:22 PM UTC-4, Joshua Updyke wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I posted a while back and you all were very helpful with details about how 
>> continuous track systems work. I wanted to share my progress. If anyone is 
>> interested you can check out the official website here:
>> 
>> http://www.tankchain.com/shop/
>> 
>> and if you want to see the development blog you can see it here:
>> https://hackaday.io/project/6106-modular-continuous-track-system
>> 
>> There is some good information about casting rubber parts there that I think 
>> could help.
>> 
>> Josh
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Re: [TANKS] Small Markers

[Michael Butts]

For ease of finding parts I would suggest an "empire mini". However the 
regulator is built into the grip. And there are electronics in the foregrip if 
I remember correctly. An airgun designs "automag" is also a possibility. Once 
there was something called a "mini mag" but I think those are pretty rare. I 
would suggest getting on a paintball forum and exploring.
Mike Butts

> On Oct 10, 2015, at 6:35 PM, Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> It is looking like I might be able to build a tank this winter, so I'm doing 
> some preliminary research.  I'm looking for a short (body length minus 
> barrel) marker. Short is anything 8 inches or shorter. I would like it to be 
> .68 cal if that can be possible, but I could do .50 if there are no other 
> options. Price range?...as cheap as possible. :) 
> In case you're wondering, this will be for a M22 Locust. They are very tiny 
> so I need tiny marker.
> If you know of a marker that fits the criteria, please let me know.  I've 
> been reaserching but not finding much.
> Thanks,
> Caleb
> 
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Re: [TANKS] M50 Ontos pictures

[Michael Butts]

They are there both in the email and the mobile version of Google groups. Don't 
know what to tell ya:-/
Mike Butts

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Re: [TANKS] EPIC WEEKEND : Sunday morning pre battle preparations

[Michael Butts]

What fun. Not something I've done. All the ones I answered previously were 
from experience, lol
Mike B

 On Aug 25, 2015, at 2:38 PM, 1 su100...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 A 11.1 V Lipo was connected parallel instead of in series with a 14.4V Lipo. 
 Luckily I heard the gas release from the pack and was able to remove it from 
 the tank.
 
 Will
 
 On Aug 25, 2015 1:12 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com wrote:
 The explanation is really quite simple. Technically speaking, the goes-inta 
 and the goes-outa got crossed thereby causing release of the magic smoke.
 
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Re: [TANKS] EPIC WEEKEND : Sunday morning pre battle preparations

[Michael Butts]

Overdrawing the battery. Using too much amperage will destroy cells. Also a 
hard impact of something inside the tank. Or exposed wire(s) that allowed the 
battery to be shorted. Perhaps a battery connector with the male end soldered 
to the battery instead of the female end. 
Mike B

 On Aug 24, 2015, at 6:41 PM, 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat 
 rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:
 
 I'll let Will fill in the technical details as to the type and voltage of the 
 LIPO cell.
 
 So, for those who were not there Sunday, can you tell us why the cell caught 
 fire.
 The were properly charged, installed, and then the SU100 was driven, carrying 
 equipment over 100 feet to the battle prep area..  It was resting when the 
 POP was heard..
 
   
 how did this happen
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
  
 how did this happen
 View on youtu.be
 Preview by Yahoo
  
 
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Re: [TANKS] brushless motor questions

[Michael Butts]

The max power spec for the CIM motor is for normal operation. It is capable of 
drawing almost 1600w when stalled. Ohms law... 12v and 133A. However, generally 
speaking the CIM motor is very inefficient, ~65% or less. 

An outrunner style brushless motor can produce the same torque at much higher 
efficiencies, ~75-90%. Copy link below for a motor that can easily produce more 
torque than the CIM and is almost definitely more efficient in normal 
operation. It just needs to have its 6mm shaft adapted. 

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18174__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_5055_320kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

The higher RPM of a geared brushless system should minimize cogging. Where 
the motor has trouble analyzing its own position. Which is a problem in direct 
drive low RPM circumstances. 

Mike

 On Jul 27, 2015, at 9:07 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hello –
  
 We’ve had a few discussions regarding brushed vs brushless motors. The most 
 important point I remember was that brushed and brushless ran at similar 
 energy efficiencies under load. I’m wondering about efficiency with respect 
 to size and weight.
  
 Let’s compare this brushless motor
 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXLWY0P=7
  
 to this brushed motor
 http://www.andymark.com/CIM-motor-FIRST-p/am-0255.htm
  
 Both are in the 300 watt range. At 12v, the unloaded brushless motor, rotates 
 at 32k rpm and the brushed motor at 5.3k rpm. Of course, the brushless motor 
 would need a lot more gearing to make it usable in a tank. That aside, could 
 I expect roughly the same performance from both motors ? It’s hard for to 
 believe that because the brushless motor is 1/14 of the brushed motor weight 
 and 1/7 of the volume.
  
 Is there another factor (besides cost) I need to take into account when 
 comparing a brushed to a brushless motor ?
  
 Thanks,
 Doug
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Re: [TANKS] Looking for someone to test my new track design

[Michael Butts]

I would absolutely love to take you up on that! I am still in the planning 
stages of my tank. Funding is a bit shy too:-/ When things slow down I hope to 
make more progress. I am active duty Navy (E-6), working on my bachelors degree 
online (8 courses left), and just started a second job (should allow some 
funding!). I want to laser cut an interlocking hull and power it with some ev 
warrior motors kindly donated by John P. My tank will be an SU-122-54 for a 
decent learning platform with simple suspension and simple (but attractive) 
hull lines.
Mike B

 On Jul 22, 2015, at 6:08 PM, Joshua Updyke jupd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hello all,
 
 
 
 I posted a while back about my track design and I got a lot of really helpful 
 feedback. I have been working hard on the design and prototyping my first set 
 of tracks. There is a lot of information about my design here if you want to 
 read more about it.
 
 https://hackaday.io/project/6106-modular-continuous-track-system
 
 The reason I am posting is that I am looking for someone that is building a 
 vehicle and might be interested in testing out the tracks. They run on 
 standard #35 roller chain and are 3 wide. I am not sure but I think that 
 might be a little small compared to what most people here are using. However, 
 I also have another size that is 4 wide. So there are some options. I also 
 have done a lot of work with the horns for bogie wheels, but at this moment I 
 dont have and prototyped. They will be an easy to add feature down the road.
 
 So if you have a vehicle that you would be interested in testing out my 
 design and giving me some feedback let me know. Below is a couple pictures of 
 the most recent progress.
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Fury

[Michael Butts]

Hahaha. Fury was good. Don't know about Furry;-) The Tiger scene was better 
than I thought it would be! Going to snag it on BlueRay when I get the 
opportunity.
Mike B

 On Oct 20, 2014, at 12:34 PM, neroc1 
 funkyneroc%ntlworld@gtempaccount.com wrote:
 
 Damm !
 
 I watched Furry , went to the wrong cinema 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Fury

[Michael Butts]

I already saw it in the theater. I just can't wait to get it on Blu-ray for my 
collection:)
Mike B

 On Oct 20, 2014, at 5:01 PM, OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat 
 rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:
 
 don't know about waiting that long, maybe a week or two
  
 chris
  
 In a message dated 10/20/2014 2:44:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 buttsakau...@gmail.com writes:
 Going to snag it on BlueRay when I get the opportunity.
 Mike B
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Fury

[Michael Butts]

I came to that realization watching it. I  even exclaimed that to the guy 
sitting next to me... He looked at me like I was stupid for being so excited 
over a tank, haha.
Mike B

 On Oct 20, 2014, at 3:49 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 That's the Bovington Tiger used in the file.  Not some CGI or cardboard fake.
 
 http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-24987676
 
 
 
 On Monday, October 20, 2014 2:44:19 PM UTC-4, Michael Butts wrote:
 Hahaha. Fury was good. Don't know about Furry;-) The Tiger scene was 
 better than I thought it would be! Going to snag it on BlueRay when I get 
 the opportunity.
 Mike B
 
 On Oct 20, 2014, at 12:34 PM, neroc1 
 funkyneroc%ntlwor...@gtempaccount.com wrote:
 
 Damm !
 
 I watched Furry , went to the wrong cinema 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] FURY

[Michael Butts]

   I was reading that they were trying very hard to not make it too theatrical 
but not relegate it to being a fancy documentary. Generally they were trying to 
make it as authentic as possible. I know it is on my must see list.
Mike Butts

 On Sep 7, 2014, at 1:49 PM, Robert Currie rcrobertcur...@gmail.com wrote: 
 
 http://youtu.be/SKu5lGfRBxc
 
 Looks like this might be good 
 
 Cheers Robert Currie 
 M4A1 GRIZZLY T - 89
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Goliath Mine

[Michael Butts]

Just a thought. It appears that the Goliath required skilled driving/strategy 
to get in position for a disabling or killing detonation. I think that a 
single shot setup with fixed elevation is a fair approximation of that 
difficulty. If shot at, any point, anywhere, you are out. Seems like a fair 
challenge. If you set it up with a flat or slightly negative trajectory that 
will force it into a close enough range. I know I wouldn't waste my one shot 
trying to hit someone at range/20-40ft. Of course this is all speculation 
because I have never attended an event:-/
Mike B

 On Sep 2, 2014, at 8:32 AM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 We don't shout bang or boom in this hobby, we paint things to denote a 
 hit.  It's not a kid's game :-)
 
 I agree that paintball grenades would be expensive and, perhaps, overkill, 
 but you aren't limited to them as the active device.  You can also use a 
 slightly pressurized bladder or a balloon as the active device.  For example, 
 fill a small balloon with paint and mount it on a mouse-trap like trigger.  
 Pop the balloon with the trigger and anything that gets splattered with paint 
 is destroyed.  It may require some experimentation to determine the right 
 size of balloon and amount of paint, but it's certainly doable.
 
 On 9/1/2014 7:21 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:
 I'm not sure a paintball grenade would work, Frank. First, they throw a
 LOT of paint over a long distance.(up to 30 ft) Not only would that coat
 the vehicle being destroyed, but also the operator if he was standing
 near his tank.
 Second, they're fairly expensive. ($6.00-$9.00 a pop) A full day of
 battling would be fairly expensive.
 Couldn't you do something simpler like when the driver want to detonate
 his mine, he yells Detonating, and any vehicle within two paces is
 considered destroyed? Or something along those lines.
 
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Re: [TANKS] Motor Question

[Michael Butts]

Having done some off-roading in my old winch equipped '77 Scout II I offer that 
winch motors are often used for extended periods and are geared very heavily to 
prolong life and increase capability.
Mike B

 On Jul 1, 2014, at 1:04 PM, Don Shankin dshan...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I'm assuming that max means 100A @ stall.  I personally would be _very_ 
 uncomfortable w/ an H-bridge that is rated at only 10% over the stall current.
 
 Re: the winch motors:
 I would think that they'd be able to run fine for our applications.  They're 
 pulling a very large load, sometimes up an incline.  I've never winched a 
 vehicle, but I would assume that it's a relatively slow process, so I would 
 think that they could run for a decent duration, especially w/ such a 
 (relatively) small load.  My concern would be what type of rpm you'd get from 
 one.
 
 -Don
 
 
 On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Aaron Stern kaaronst...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello again,
 
 I just wanted to pop in quickly to ask about some specific motors that I 
 found to see if anyone has tried them before.  AmpFlow sells some very 
 powerful high performance motors with attached gearboxes.  The E30-400-G is 
 the model I have ordered (out of stock, a few more weeks of waiting to go).  
 The specs show that it is a max hp of 2.1 at a little over 100 amps.  I hope 
 not to run at that high a torque but it would be nice to know that it is 
 available if needed.  Ive built my own Hbridge circuit and it SHOULD be ok 
 up to 110 amps but I dont want to push my luck.
 
 On a related note has anyone tried winch motors before?  You can find a 3.2 
 hp 24V winch motor for $100 very easily.  My only concern would be the 
 windings overheating from extended periods of operation and shorting 
 themselves.
 
 Thanks for the help,
 Aaron Stern
 
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Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers ....

[Michael Butts]

Says right on the page it is a rebranded Fly Sky radio. No harm no foul.
Mike Butts

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 12:10 PM, RocketMan dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Looks like a blatant trademark violation, here
 
 Cheap and Dirty Radio Control System (am-2520)
 http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2520.htm
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers ....

[Michael Butts]

Sorry, I feel like a heel. I have a really hard time with picking up on 
humor/sarcasm. My wife says I have the intuition of a brick:)
Mike B

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 7:29 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Yeah  I guess I should have added a j/k or winky emoticon to keep this 
 post from being interpreted as seriously as it apparently was. I was poking 
 fun at the Cheap name aspect and the fact that Cheap Control Systems 
 probably does not have
 
 A) lawyers, or
 B) a Cheap trademark
 
 Future humor will be more conspicuously labelled.
 
- Doug
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
 Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
 Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 5:20 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers 
 
 Nope, the C12C is still the one and only R/C system that uses a wireless game 
 pad to provide short-range R/C control.  The AM-2520 is a re-branded Chinese 
 system that is available for about $35 from their China distribution center, 
 plus shipping and handling from China.  Glad to see that Andy Mark is 
 stocking them, thereby making it easier to purchase them.
 
 My legal team tells me, however, that the use of the word Cheap could be 
 problematic depending on how it is used.  Our motto is Cheap Doesn't Mean 
 Inexpensive  so it's probably not an infringement :-)
 
 On 6/27/2014 12:10 PM, RocketMan wrote:
 Looks like a blatant trademark violation, here
 
 Cheap and Dirty Radio Control System (am-2520) 
 http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2520.htm
 
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Re: [TANKS] Spring rates

[Michael Butts]

Has anyone really pushed the envelope of progressive rate coil springs in a
compression style suspension?
Mike B


On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 6:30 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com
wrote:

 2X = Soft
 3X = Semi-Stiff
 4X = Stiff

 Most men (and women) prefer stiff ;-)


 On 6/11/2014 4:25 PM, Don Shankin wrote:

 I didn't think it'd be a factor of two though.


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Re: [TANKS] Man Down

[Michael Butts]

Boy howdy... I know that sensation. I've played a lot of paintball:) Elicits my 
empathy and a chuckle.
Mike B

 On May 27, 2014, at 10:02 AM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 OK ... complete honesty ... how many of you laughed at the end of the video?
 
 On 5/26/2014 2:07 PM, 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat wrote:
 Going for the kill I whirled around the tree and snapped off a round.
 Sadly, a bit high. Sorry about that Noah. He shook it off, and play
 resumed.
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

[Michael Butts]

Neil,
  There are many types of lithium based batteries that have a good price tag. 
My favorite are LiFePo4 cells also known as just LiFe cells. They have a 
3.2-3.4v operating voltage. Look at batteryspace.com to get an idea of the 
various capacities and discharge rates available. Also there is a type of LiFe 
cell known as a Headway cell it is a blue cylinder. They tend to have higher 
discharge ratings than the prismatic bricks. LiFe cells are less voltage, 
temperature, moisture, and impact sensitive than other lithium types. 

LiPo cells tend to have the best discharge rates and capacities for their 
weight.
Mike Butts

 On May 25, 2014, at 10:29 AM, neroc1 funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 
 I get it, C = maximum draw . In my world 100 amps continuous draw is a lot.
 
 Reading a little further down , I see -
 Discharge(c)  20
 Max Charge Rate (C)   2
 So does this mean although this battery can discharge @ 100 amps it can only 
 take 10 amps whilst charging ?
 
 I have calculated that this battery gives you 12.5 ah / kg whilst SLA gives 
 only around 2.6 ah / kg. 
 A staggering difference of 5 times more ah for the same weight at a very 
 similar voltage, 
 and that's not taking into account the fact that an 18 ah SLA doesn't provide 
 18 ah.
 
 i like this battery ..
 
 Neil R
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

[Michael Butts]

In short. Maxon's 400w+ motors are $800+. Generally absurdly expensive unless 
you found them on crazy sale on ebay. Even then not worth the money compared to 
China motor specials.
Mike Butts

 On Apr 8, 2014, at 3:46 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 
 oh, i know they are costly, i just wanted to see if they have made anything 
 in comparison to scooter motors
  
 In a message dated 4/8/2014 1:42:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 steve...@gmail.com writes:
 Chris, I don't get you Dude!  Your complaining about the shipping from TNC 
 and in the next email asking about Maxon motors?  You will pay several 
 hundred dollars (per motor) for a wattage comparable solution from Maxon and 
 that's assuming you'll find a distributor that will deal with you.
 
 ST
 
 
 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 11:33:00 AM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
 i was just looking to see what might be out there in the way of 24 volt 
 motors and Maxon popped up. we have used some of their smaller motors in the 
 larger r/c boats and they had plenty of power and never let us down, so when 
 their name popped up, i figure it couldn't hurt any to see what they 
 have..
  
 i have no clue as to what they have as they don't just list stuff easily by 
 volts/watts, so if anyone knows what to enter into this page (not like i 
 expect them to actually have anything to offer)
  
 http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/msp/
  
 chris
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

[Michael Butts]

There are drop down boxes on the following page where you can specify what you 
are interested in: http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/catalog
Pick a wattage and you will get a listing of all motors at that power.
Mike B

 On Apr 8, 2014, at 8:17 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 
 ya, they do cost a bit, but they are not built like basic motors. china 
 motors, are they like them little hobby mabuchi motors with plastic end caps 
 that scream with anything more than 3 volts, make pretty magic smoke and then 
 burn your fingers?
  
 i still have some old Maxons in some of the 8' r/c boats and subs and 
 wouldn't trade them for anything (other than for new Maxons).
  
 as to their larger motors, i haven't had any personal experience with them, 
 but would love to see them running in person.
  
 and as to China motors, don't know of them other than i would have to check 
 them with a geiger counter and then scrape for lead poisoning and mold testing
  
 so, you have a page or link to see these 400w motors they have? curious to 
 see their specs
  
 chris
  
 In a message dated 4/8/2014 4:59:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 buttsakau...@gmail.com writes:
 In short. Maxon's 400w+ motors are $800+. Generally absurdly expensive unless 
 you found them on crazy sale on ebay. Even then not worth the money compared 
 to China motor specials.
 Mike Butts
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Re: [TANKS] linier drive for steering?

[Michael Butts]

This site has hacked and externally geared servo setups.
http://www.servocity.com/html/robotzone_servos.html?no_redirect=true

Look around the site for many other solutions.

Mike B

 On Mar 30, 2014, at 9:03 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 
 lol, that is how i was designing it - use the bell crank (if that's what they 
 are calling that part in the center) to act as a buffer (of sorts) and to 
 increase the throw/torque just a bit. that and with using ball link ends 
 it'll help smooth things out (specially when in motion) the rest of the way. 
 thanks for that link (i can replace some of my doodles and show a bit better 
 prospective of it all).
  
 i'm hoping to look over the pages steve posted tonight to see what info they 
 offer
  
 chris
  
 In a message dated 3/30/2014 6:23:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 panthergol...@gmail.com writes:
 That must be why the concept is used by most cars, RC racing or otherwise; 
 its a conspiracy by Futaba to sell replacement gears... 
 
 Look up bell crank steering. Its mechanically simple, resists bump steer very 
 well and keeps the wear off your servos. 
 
 Heres a great picture of the implementation:
 
 http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.teammagic.com.tw%2Fpic%2FProductIntroduction%2FCars%2FE4%2FE4RS09%2Fsingle-bell-crank-steering-system.jpgimgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.teammagic.com.tw%2Fwb_product03.asp%3Fcid%3D18%26itno%3D503003h=220w=460tbnid=BEk1iLdqf1749M%3Azoom=1docid=Bm9TGafqzGw_8Mei=a5g4U5uPEIPlyQGfuoCoDQtbm=ischved=0CA8QhBwwAjhkiact=rcdur=301page=9start=93ndsp=12
 
 
 
 
 On Sun, Mar 30, 2014 at 5:32 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 it is possible not very practical as it'll put some serious strain on the 
 servo and gears
  
 chris
  
 In a message dated 3/30/2014 5:17:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 panthergol...@gmail.com writes:
 Unfortunately its more complicated than that... for example, how long are 
 the steering arms (im assuming your using some variant of Ackerman 
 steering)? Even the weakest servo with a seriously long lever could give 
 some harsh torque...
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[TANKS] Dimensional Dilemma

[Michael Butts]

I have been investigating the SU-122-54. However the dimensions given on 
various web pages and those I have measured on drawings do not match. The 
length to width ratio is off. Here are some helpful locations.

http://alternathistory.org.ua/samokhodnaya-ustanovka-su-122-54-sssr

http://www.militaertechnik-der-nva.de/Waffensysteme/Artilleriesysteme/Artillerie/SU122-54/122-mm-SU122-54.html

Should I keep looking for more accurate documentation? I have 6-10hrs of web 
scouring in English and Russian so far. Or should I just build to the drawing 
in one of those links and call it good because it looks about right/ 
proportional?

Mike Butts

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Re: [TANKS] torsion suspension units

[Michael Butts]

Grant, what is the approximate per unit cost without springs? Also what is the 
overall width of an assembled unit (30mm?).
Mike Butts


 On Feb 26, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Grant Stonnell gr...@spudnet.co.nz wrote:
 
 Hi there
 We can make them what ever size U require, the residing factor is what 
 diameter and lenght the spring is that you want to use.
 I have used small 30mm diameter springs only because I had limited space 
 inside my hull once the batteries had gone in.
 If interested i do flatpack the main hull and turret bits fir my Abrams, only 
 thing is you would then need to weld it all together.
 Both the suspension and body can be cut from what ever material U wish, my 
 hull is 4mm mild steel and suspension is Aluminium.
 
 Let me know if U have any other questions.
 
 Grant
 From: Loren
 Sent: 27/02/2014 12:50
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] torsion suspension units
 
 Sorry for getting back so late.  I'm doing an Abrams too--1/6, size isn't too 
 big a deal, are you offering different sizes?
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Re: [TANKS] Paintball and the Law

[Michael Butts]

To me it reads that non-battlers are to stay out from behind vehicles and 
weapon systems. While battlers are expected to be in said location and can/will 
be shot on occasion.
Mike Butts

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 7, 2014, at 9:41 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 
 i do question the wording of # 7
  
 Awareness - A battler must be aware of all objects down-range from a valid 
 target at all times, including spectators, cars and building, and should 
 avoid hitting them whenever possible. This does not apply to battlers who are 
 standing behind their vehicles or weapons systems
 
 why does this not apply to someone standing behind their vehicle that they 
 are battling with? what i read in the first part makes it sound like it 
 applies to individuals who are standing anywhere but behind their vehicles, 
 but the ones that are standing behind them are exempt from the rule
  
 maybe just do away with the last sentence?
  
 chris
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Re: [TANKS] Re: CO2 versus Compressed Air

[Michael Butts]

Co2 under 2 in diameter and any length do not need retesting. All others
of larger diameters do... Last time I checked (a year ago).
Mike Butts


On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 4:29 PM, Mike Lyons mxly...@cox.net wrote:

 I believe CO2 tanks need re-testing with perhaps an exception for steel or
 aluminum tanks under 2 diameter and 2' length (and even that may be old
 information).


 On Thursday, January 23, 2014 2:01:07 PM UTC-5, Loic atFOA wrote:
 ...

 CO2


- Do not require re-testing and re-certification

 ...



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Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors

[Michael Butts]

Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge
with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get
by with 12awg though I bet.
Mike B


On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use...


 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using
 in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors?


 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would
 stall.  My tracks are steel so they would slip some.


 On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks
 like they still have the connectors in stock:

 http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html

 Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them.  The fuses
 you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use.
  Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors.  I think I'm
 using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller.  Stall current would be if you
 decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep
 pushing the motors full throttle.  At that point they would stall and be
 pulling upwards of 100A.  At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors
 and my controllers.

 Derek


 On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries 
 panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage
 of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors
 though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 
 volts.

 Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the
 datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how 
 many
 Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do
 the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?


 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:

 Hi all,

 I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been
 doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a 
 moment
 to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to
 not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.

 Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem
 to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a 
 fair
 bit of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea 
 how
 many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt
 scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys 
 think,
 seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
 enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at 
 least
 500-600 watts?


 Thanks in advance,

 Isaac

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Michael Butts]

T-43 irked me... T-44 was solid but a little frustrating for its
tier... but I LOVE marauding in my T-54! I'm like a vulture on treads!
Mike Butts
(IS-3 is #1 in my heart... real world and in the game... hull down
like its my job!)

On 7/19/13, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:
 Im just finishing my t30, after that ill be hanging around tier 8 for a
 while doing is3 and centurion 1 (both about 1/3 done ) and kv4 (and someday
 pershing and ferdi but my clan doesn't need meds atm and i already have 2,
 nor jpz)
 On 2013-07-19 2:36 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 Cool, we should platoon at some point, it seems you have many of the same
 tanks i do
 On 2013-07-19 2:35 PM, Derek ENGELHAUPT tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Nope.  Closest to getting an IS-7, but its a long way off.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 19, 2013, at 1:30 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I loved the is once i got the top gun turret and engine. For t44 get the
 wet ammo rack. Your gonna need it. And never use the repair kit unless
 its
 on the ammo rack.

 Engel got any tier tens?
 On 2013-07-19 2:05 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 The IS is a great tank for it's tier, but only once it's fully
 upgraded.


 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Buck Cronk
 buckcr...@gmail.comwrote:

 My highest tier is 7. I have a T-43, and hopefully will soon have the
 IS. I really don't like the T-43, since it seems like a T-34-85 (Which
 I've
 already played a ton) but way worse. I'm really looking forward to the
 T-54
 and T-62a! I don't know much about that T-44, but I'm really glad to
 hear
 that it has the potential to be a favorite.


 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Derek Engelhaupt
 tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have like 20 tanks in my stable.  I'm heading up the Soviet medium
 tree now.  Only one tier 9 in my stable and that's the IS-8.  I have
 enough
 experience to get the AMX tier 9, but not the cash.  I've taken a
 break now
 that my premium account has expired.  Running the Centurion I and the
 Pershing are expensive.  Without premium I lose money on them even
 when I
 win...  I've also sold all of my artillery since they are no fun to
 play
 anymore.


 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 10:17 AM, isaac goldman 
 panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 I hated the T44 with a passion. T54 and 62a are both great tanks
 though



 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 11:08 AM, TyngTech
 steve...@gmail.comwrote:

 Pete wrote:

 I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These
 guys are obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)

 As Pete's a historical type I can understand his statement.  When
 I'd see these types of comments in the game, my first response was
 always,
 WOT is a game, not a history lesson!


 Steve Fun First, Facts Second Tyng







 On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:

 I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just
 wanted to let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially
 not my
 passion for tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.

 First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been
 for months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post
 pictures
 when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's still a
 work in
 progress!

 Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I
 know
 Steve Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely
 worth a
 Google search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your username,
 please!
 Mine is Spitfire155.

 I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng
 and the others again for their input when I was building it. :)

 Glad to see this hobby still going!

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Michael Butts]

I play... DasButts is my screen name. However, I m overseas till the
end of the year. I will be back on the NA server in late Dec:)
Mike Butts

On 7/18/13, Pete Arundel pureteenl...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These guys are
 obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)


 On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:

 I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just wanted to

 let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially not my passion
 for
 tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.

 First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been for
 months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post pictures
 when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's still a work in

 progress!

 Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I know Steve
 Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely worth a Google

 search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your username, please! Mine is

 Spitfire155.

 I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng and the

 others again for their input when I was building it. :)

 Glad to see this hobby still going!


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Michael Butts]

I'm afraid not. I've never driven in Canada:)
Mike B

On 7/18/13, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:
 MIchael stupid question but are you the Michael Butts who was on Canada's
 Worst Driver a few years back?


 On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 7:07 AM, Michael Butts
 buttsakau...@gmail.comwrote:

 I play... DasButts is my screen name. However, I m overseas till the
 end of the year. I will be back on the NA server in late Dec:)
 Mike Butts

 On 7/18/13, Pete Arundel pureteenl...@hotmail.com wrote:
  I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These guys
  are
  obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)
 
 
  On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:
 
  I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just wanted
 to
 
  let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially not my
  passion
  for
  tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.
 
  First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been for
  months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post
  pictures
  when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's still a
  work
 in
 
  progress!
 
  Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I know
  Steve
  Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely worth a
 Google
 
  search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your username, please! Mine
 is
 
  Spitfire155.
 
  I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng and
 the
 
  others again for their input when I was building it. :)
 
  Glad to see this hobby still going!
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Why not brushless motors??

[Michael Butts]

I say go for the brushless if it interests you. All the theory in the world
isn't worth beans till someone puts it to the test. It is your money.
Mike B


On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 12:08 AM, Niels Erik Kristensen n...@live.dkwrote:

 Aeroplane engine in a tank???   Yes, and my mext tank will be a Centurion.
 The tank that the Danish army had when i was a soldier in the late
 seventies.
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolls-Royce_Meteor
 Den søndag den 31. marts 2013 08.35.20 UTC+2 skrev Niels Erik Kristensen:

 They are not brushless motors  Its a brushless esc, that are hacked
 to drive brushed motors.
 Den lørdag den 30. marts 2013 23.42.39 UTC+1 skrev TeamTiki:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=XBLYkRLRBZQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBLYkRLRBZQ

 brushless motors for robot draintrain (in 4 parts)

 to summerize:  the control simply isn't there...

 -TeamTiki

 --- On *Sat, 3/30/13, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com* wrote:


 From: Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Why not brushless motors??
 To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
 Date: Saturday, March 30, 2013, 9:12 AM

 I also wish you well in completing your project.  I have solved some
 problems with my ideas and created new ones with others.  Experimenting is
 half the fun.

 Derek

 On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 9:43 AM, Frank Pittelli 
 frank.pitte...@gmail.comhttp://us.mc1631.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=frank.pitte...@gmail.com
  wrote:

 Here's an interesting statement from the article you referenced:

*Under high mechanical loads, brushless motors and high-quality
 brushed motors are comparable in efficiency.*

 Airplane propeller == low mechanical load

 Tank tracks == high mechanical load


 On Saturday, March 30, 2013 5:37:29 AM UTC-4, Niels Erik Kristensen
 wrote:

 Iam not an expert-But i can read :-)
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/**B**rushless_DC_electric_motorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Computer modelling of tanks

[Michael Butts]

Sketchup it is! Thanks everyone:)
Mike B

On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 8:10 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 If money's no object I highly recommend Rhino, otherwise Sketchup like
 everyone else is recommending.

 Steve Tyng


 On Friday, February 22, 2013 12:50:16 AM UTC-5, Michael Butts wrote:

 While I am deployed does anyone know of a relatively user friendly
 modelling software that I could use to plan out a tank? Any CAD type
 software that would lend itself to being used by a completely inexperienced
 person? I am reasonably savvy. I just have never had occasion to use such
 software.
 Mike B

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[TANKS] Computer modelling of tanks

[Michael Butts]

While I am deployed does anyone know of a relatively user friendly
modelling software that I could use to plan out a tank? Any CAD type
software that would lend itself to being used by a completely inexperienced
person? I am reasonably savvy. I just have never had occasion to use such
software.
Mike B

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Re: [TANKS] Re: ASCII Tanks...part II

[Michael Butts]

Lol... Magic Eye references. Makes me want to go buy a Sunday paper:)
Mike B

On Oct 17, 2012, at 8:21 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 In a message dated 10/17/2012 8:18:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 buckcr...@gmail.com writes:
 dunno how u get dolphins, but thats pretty cool
 sorry, your right i stared a bit longer and saw whales and seagulls
  
 Chris
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Re: [TANKS] My T34/85

[Michael Butts]

I heartily concur:) It is an invigorating prospect! Now to hit up the
multiple local lumber yards (suppliers) and multiple cabinet shops
(consumers) for some high quality build material!
Mike B

On 9/17/12, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 The JS-III has beefy return rollers, should make tab construction easier
 for it's tracks.  I'm looking forward to the challenge of building the
 proven TTS-2 for the JS-III.

 I just took a better look at the JS3.  Those return idlers would make
 decent road wheels on any lesser tank!

 ST

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Re: [TANKS] My T34/85

[Michael Butts]

An IS-3 shouldn't have said problems I would think. At 1/7 scale the
return rollers are 2.25+ in diameter. At 1/6 scale the return rollers
are 2.75+- in diameter. One inch tall tracking tabs should be no
problem.
Mike B

On 9/14/12, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ah yes, the Sherman and it's little brother the Stuart.  This WW1 legacy
 suspension design supports the return rollers from underneath.  The tracks
 dual outside tracking tabs run on the outside of the idler supports.  I
 concede that in this one example, tracking tab height can exceed the
 half-diameter of the smallest idler in the system.

 For those wanting a mechanically complex track system with limited
 suspension travel, build a Sherman or Stuart.  For those wanting a
 mechanically simple and high performance battle proven system, build a
 Christie suspension and forget about return rollers.

 Steve Tyng




 On Thursday, September 13, 2012 12:59:59 PM UTC-4, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 On the subject of idlers I will have to disagree with Steve.  If small
 idlers limit the tracking tab height, move them to the outside of the
 track
 ala Stuart or an early Sherman.  Problem solved.  Any problem can be fixed

 with enough time or money... :)

 Derek my KV-2 has idlers and no issues  Engelhaupt




 On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 8:18 AM, TyngTech stev...@gmail.com
 javascript:
  wrote:

 I don't think I'll be building any of those suggestions, Dave... it
 seems at least the M18 is different. A quick Google search turned up a
 picture of an M18 with little idlers (what are they called?) strung out
 above the road wheels.

 I call them return idlers, the bane of the small tank builder.  The
 smallest idler sets your tracks max tracking tab height.  Bigger tabs
 mean
 better track performance.  There's a reason TyngTech vehicles are based
 off
 of Christie inspired tanks.

 Steve Christie is my Deity Tyng


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Re: [TANKS] Rules and other things

[Michael Butts]

Dave,
  I was under that impression due to the models I had seen. Scale
modelers are really anal for the most part. Also because of this site:

http://www.peachmountain.com/5star/US_Army_Ordnance_Museum_IS3_tank.aspx

The clearest picture shows the under belly of the tank. It is 2/3 of
the way down or so. You can tell this is all one set of pictures by
the lighting.

Also do you have a drawing with all the hull angles and whatnot like that IS-4?
Mike B

On 8/22/12, Dave D. degeck...@optonline.net wrote:
 Hey Mike,

 Me again...  I was rereading your post and you mentioned that you thought
 the JS-III had sloped sides/bottom...

Hull: I like Steve Tyng construction methods and suspension. However I
 wonder about grime affecting springs. That method would also call for a
 non scale hull shape for an IS-3. It is flat down the centerline at a
 marginal width but angles up toward the road wheels/ sides. To counteract
 mines I would guess. His method need a box hull it would seem.

 I think you may be confusing the JS-III with the JS-IV, which seems from
 drawings to have sloped sides.  I haven't any photos that show this
 conclusively, but the diagrams do

 JS-IV









 And here is a good close-up photo showing the JS-III's suspension and side
 wall, looks 90 degrees to me...

 I wonder why the Russians put those five holes in each road wheel, access
 points, I guess.  The return rollers have 'em too!!  And yet they don't seem
 to line up with anything on the inside... Hmmm.  Excess weight reduction?
 Additional enemy sighting portals?  Vodka'ed up Russkie wheel die man left
 his signature mark?  Any ideas, Chris-OS?




 So you can go with the venerable Tyng suspension/hull design with
 confidence...  Nothing runs like a Tyng...  I've seen the videos to prove
 it!!  LOL.   I think I've coined a phrase, with all due respect to John D.


 And even if it were sloped (I really think it isn't) I believe the hobby
 would let you slide abit and build the hull bottom flat, to accommodate the
 wheel axles and such.  I highly doubt they'll sacrifice a potential new
 paint target - I mean member over a relatively minor build modification!!


 Just my two cents worth...


 Dave Boy this forum is fun D.

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Re: [TANKS] Hey Mike - more on the JS-III tracks...

[Michael Butts]

I think I know the difference. The wider tracks appear to belong to an IS-3M. 
The different lights, fenders, and cover over the mantlet suggest that to me. 
The wider one have tabs that stick out beyond the end of the pins unlike the 
other ones. An excuse to step up to the wider 114mm tracks in 1/7th scale. No 
Intralox product is just right. That and they have dual tracking tabs. The 
IS-3 has single ones. Another idea I was thinking of was dual roller chain 
tracks. With aluminum t extrusion material for treads. I have so many ideas 
flying around in my head!
  I am active Navy and stationed in Charleston, SC. Sounds like we are both 
deep into the planning process. I was thinking of using a wood hull as well. 
Maybe we can build in conjunction with each other?
Mike B


On Aug 21, 2012, at 11:32 PM, Dave D. degeck...@optonline.net wrote:

 Hey Mike,
  
 Seeing as we may be building the same vehicle I couldn't help but be 
 intrigued by your posting!!   (First off,  I agree with you Mike, I think the 
 JS III is the most gorgeous tank to ever roam the battlefield.  Ever since I 
 saw its profile on that Panzerblitz counter (as a teenager), I knew it was my 
 favorite.  And it plays well to my (part) Ukrainian heritage... from my post 
 Re: [TANKS]  RE: Greetings from South Carolina - 8/16/2012 5:52pm)  I needed 
 to create a new thread, as my Outlook Express wouldn't let me insert pictures 
 directly into my reply to your original thread.  So I started a new thread to 
 accommodate the pictures.  Not a big B.Gates fan... hahaha.
  
 Funny that you considered 1/7th scale, I'm going to go with that scale, as it 
 conforms to the rules, and makes for a less bulky vehicle, and more car trunk 
 friendly too.
  
 I plan on giving Intralox a call tomorrow btw...
  
 Your track width measurements are spot on.  I did a little calculating based 
 on the photo below, and I came up with a 1/7th track width of 3.72, which 
 equates darn close to 94mm!!  I believe that this photo gives the best 
 front-on view of the JS-III that I could find.  I came up with a 1/7th 
 scale of 18 for the width of the JS-III overall, which I used to help 
 calculate my track measurement, using a simple proportion ratio...
  
 7007790007_09419b2219-03 GOOD!!.jpg
  
  
 I basically took a width measurement from the photo, going from the top 
 outside corner of the fender over to the corresponding other fender corner.  
 I then took a measurement of the track width.  I did a proportion ratio, 
 dividing the track width from the photo by the overall width of the tank from 
 the photo.  This gave me a proportion of .206896, which I multiplied by the 
 18 (the 1/7th overall width), to give me the 1/7th width of the track, 
 3.724, to be precise.
  
 Funny, as I was going to insert two more examples of frontal photos of the 
 JS-III, but each of those photos gave a larger track width... one gave 3.81 
 and the other came in at 4.14.  Not helping the argument to give the 85mm 
 Intralox a shot!!
  
 I calculated that you'd be right at 90.425% of the actual 1/7th track width 
 if you went with the 85mm Intralox tread ( 85 divided by 94...), not too far 
 off.  But I can see where the extra 3/8ths of an inch can affect the look of 
 the tank, especially x2, which would be 3/4ths of an inch of missing track. 
  Nonetheless, just something to consider.
  
 I've amassed a fairly extensive photo gallery of the JS-III, and have made 
 some preliminary measurement conversions in three foot, 1/6th and 1/7th 
 scales.  If you ever need someone to help verify a measurement regarding the 
 JS-III, let me know...I'd be more than willing to help out.
  
 I decided to add the other two photos...
  
 IS-3_frontal_view70 resizedjpg
  
 Actually, this one is directly front-on as well, and looks to be from 
 Aberdeen...  Wow, it's coming up with a 1/7th width of 3.757.  Yikes, the 
 eyes can play tricks on you at my age...  LOL.  This photo makes it slightly 
 harder to get a width measurement, as the track guards are different...  I 
 tell you, I can see where this taking measurements from photos can get nerve 
 racking... I keep getting a slightly different number on this photo!!  I 
 guess you just gotta go with a very close approximation, to keep your sanity, 
 and begin the build!!  I think this is why I keep having trouble getting 
 started, too much the perfectionist!!  Just start cutting the damned wood 
 Dave...
  
  
  
  
  
 JS-3-3 resized.jpg
  
 This is the one that gave me the 4.14 1/7th track measurement...
  
  
 PS.  I came up with a 1/7th overall length of 37.51.  Thought you might be 
 asking...  LOL.  Although, once again, I've got another set of specs that 
 make all of the JS-III's measurements longer, so go figure.
  
  
 Oh well, I've always be into crunching numbers, can you tell?!!  Oh yeah, be 
 meaning to ask, where do you hail from?
  
  
 Dave D.
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[TANKS] Rules and other things

[Michael Butts]

Rules: I hear rumor of impending changes: Speed limit, size = armament, etc. I 
would like to plan my build with future changes in mind.

Scale: I am very torn between 2 scales. 1/7 scale for an IS-3 puts it at 37+- 
and 1/6 scale is 44+-. I figure 1/6 will be more popular if I was to build a 
plug for that hemispherical turret and then I could make a handful of them out 
of fiberglass and sell either them and/or the plug/mold. Convenient fact: At 
1/6 scale there is an intralox track like Joe S. used that is almost the right 
size (105mm intralox vs 110mm scale). At the 1/7 scale the intralox stuff is 
way too wide or skinny (85/105mm intralox vs 94mm scale).

Drivetrain: I like the idea of already geared scooter motors. I think that a 
controller that can handle stall current is prudent. Leaning toward the 
Dimension Engineering products. Roller chain between motors and drive shafts.

Turret rotation: Dual radio receivers in tank. Self contained turret. Infinite 
rotation with belt drive. That will allow slippage just in case I smack barrel 
into something. 

Hull: I like Steve Tyng construction methods and suspension. However I wonder 
about grime affecting springs. That method would also call for a non scale 
hull shape for an IS-3. It is flat down the centerline at a marginal width but 
angles up toward the road wheels/ sides. To counteract mines I would guess. His 
method need a box hull it would seem.

Armament: old school AGD (Air Gun Designs) automag paintball gun comes to mind. 
Single tube. All mechanical. Short body. Angled ball feed. Reliability used to 
be mediocre. I have heard aftermarket parts have fixed all issues.

Please feel free to comment on any ideas that have proved less than reliable:-)
Mike B

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[TANKS] Greetings from South Carolina

[Michael Butts]

Hello all,
  Just wanted to give a quick introduction now that I have joined the
list. My name is Mike Butts and I am active duty Navy and stationed in
Charleston, SC. I have been following RC Tank Combat since 2003 (near
end of high school) but have sunk my resources into RC Naval Combat.
Some might recognize me from various forums/ lists realted to Big Gun/
Fast Gun formats.

  I have a fetish with all things Soviet and my very favorite tank is
the IS-3 (Iosif Stalin), aka JS-3. I have a great many drawings and
pictures of it. I have seen some 3D renderings of it but have had no
luck in contacting the person responsible so as to get their hull
dimensions. I have looked at all the links on the site and have yet to
come up with hull shapes/ angles for the IS-3. Only 2D drawings that
with some creative geometry I could come up with said dimensions. The
front of the tank is made up of 6 plates meeting at various angles. Is
it the most practical tank... nope. Is the turret going to be rather
complicated... oh yes. Am I going to consider any other tank...
absolutely not. My mantra is that if you don't love it... don't build
it. Because when you hit a snag you might quit.

  My build will be slow and not due to start for about a year.
However, I can get a good plan together in the mean time and maybe
accumulate some good parts. Thanks for letting me join and I look
forward to gaining some knowledge!
Mike B

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[TANKS] Greetings from South Carolina

[Michael Butts]

Ironically, it is on my watch list:) I was just hoping to find some actual 
plans.

A quick question: Are geared turret rotation setups prone to stripping when 
bumped?

Mike B


On Aug 15, 2012, at 6:28 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mike,
 
 Welcome.  I love the way Russian tanks look.  What I have done is buy a 1/35 
 scale model and scale all the measurements up to 1/6 or whatever scale you 
 want:
 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-1-35-Scale-JS3-Stalin-Russian-Heavy-Tank-Kit-/170893427017?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item27ca0ac149#ht_2061wt_1397
  
 
 Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Greetings from South Carolina

[Michael Butts]

That is pretty cool Steve!

Mike B



On Aug 15, 2012, at 7:37 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://us.dinodirect.com/3d-paper-model-soviet-is3-heavy-tank.html?cur=USD
 
 Steve
 
 
 On Wednesday, August 15, 2012 4:23:48 PM UTC-4, Michael Butts wrote:
 Hello all, 
   Just wanted to give a quick introduction now that I have joined the 
 list. My name is Mike Butts and I am active duty Navy and stationed in 
 Charleston, SC. I have been following RC Tank Combat since 2003 (near 
 end of high school) but have sunk my resources into RC Naval Combat. 
 Some might recognize me from various forums/ lists realted to Big Gun/ 
 Fast Gun formats. 
 
   I have a fetish with all things Soviet and my very favorite tank is 
 the IS-3 (Iosif Stalin), aka JS-3. I have a great many drawings and 
 pictures of it. I have seen some 3D renderings of it but have had no 
 luck in contacting the person responsible so as to get their hull 
 dimensions. I have looked at all the links on the site and have yet to 
 come up with hull shapes/ angles for the IS-3. Only 2D drawings that 
 with some creative geometry I could come up with said dimensions. The 
 front of the tank is made up of 6 plates meeting at various angles. Is 
 it the most practical tank... nope. Is the turret going to be rather 
 complicated... oh yes. Am I going to consider any other tank... 
 absolutely not. My mantra is that if you don't love it... don't build 
 it. Because when you hit a snag you might quit. 
 
   My build will be slow and not due to start for about a year. 
 However, I can get a good plan together in the mean time and maybe 
 accumulate some good parts. Thanks for letting me join and I look 
 forward to gaining some knowledge! 
 Mike B 
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Re: [TANKS] Greetings from South Carolina

[Michael Butts]

Awesome! I am looking forward to it! I will bring everything I have about the 
IS-3 with me.
Mike B



On Aug 15, 2012, at 8:19 PM, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Heya Mike.  Fancy meeting you here.  Heh.
 
 Lots of info on the web site and here.  More than enough info and experience 
 available to plan out your upcoming build.  
 
 I'll bring the Strv to the Labor Day battle.  
 
 Mike
 
 From: Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.com
 To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:23 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Greetings from South Carolina
 
 Hello all,
   Just wanted to give a quick introduction now that I have joined the
 list. My name is Mike Butts and I am active duty Navy and stationed in
 Charleston, SC. I have been following RC Tank Combat since 2003 (near
 end of high school) but have sunk my resources into RC Naval Combat.
 Some might recognize me from various forums/ lists realted to Big Gun/
 Fast Gun formats.
 
   I have a fetish with all things Soviet and my very favorite tank is
 the IS-3 (Iosif Stalin), aka JS-3. I have a great many drawings and
 pictures of it. I have seen some 3D renderings of it but have had no
 luck in contacting the person responsible so as to get their hull
 dimensions. I have looked at all the links on the site and have yet to
 come up with hull shapes/ angles for the IS-3. Only 2D drawings that
 with some creative geometry I could come up with said dimensions. The
 front of the tank is made up of 6 plates meeting at various angles. Is
 it the most practical tank... nope. Is the turret going to be rather
 complicated... oh yes. Am I going to consider any other tank...
 absolutely not. My mantra is that if you don't love it... don't build
 it. Because when you hit a snag you might quit.
 
   My build will be slow and not due to start for about a year.
 However, I can get a good plan together in the mean time and maybe
 accumulate some good parts. Thanks for letting me join and I look
 forward to gaining some knowledge!
 Mike B
 
 -- 
 You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group.
 To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
 Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
 
 
 -- 
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 To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
 Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat

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