RE: [TANKS] Re: Treads
On your first pic, I can clearly see the fenomen I was trying to explain that when your track goes straigth the gap is closing and make a colision with the teeth of the sprocket... I wish that you will make your track system working...!! And before making a business of scale tanks, Be sure to make one working well!! I have spend more then 1500$ until now in parts for one tank and I got nothing built for now! Don't give up it's now 8 years that I'm trying to make someting working!! Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 16:48:25 -0700 From: kunkmies...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads OK, finally getting sat down and uploading these. Looking at them, I'm no longer sure if Jean is right and it'll have problems. The gaps are bigger, 7/16, but the sprockets aren't the pattern I remembered, though I might be using the wrong sprocket--I thought it had more of a gap for the track to fit in. I'd appreciate your input Jean. While I'd like to see if this will work, it'd be nice to know how much effort it's worth. Since I'm looking at making tanks in this scale as a business, I'm also looking at doing realistic metal tracks, though that'll require work to find a process that doesn't take hours and hours of run time on machines to make one set. Also threw in a pic of the model for the hull. I need to get a few cuts on the table saw done, and I'll be able to finish assembling the hull and start putting motors and stuff in it. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads
the tracks i made for the Tiger are the same as what you have shown attached to the attachment chain. i am using the sprockets that were made for the chain, but i attached to that is a resin cast part that is to resemble the sprocket and idler wheels and be slightly slightly functional as they are meant to help prevent the tracks from flopping about when rounding those two wheels. the rest of the time the tracks will either be laying on top of the road wheels or passing beneath them. chris In a message dated 9/22/2014 7:48:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, kunkmies...@gmail.com writes: OK, finally getting sat down and uploading these. Looking at them, I'm no longer sure if Jean is right and it'll have problems. The gaps are bigger, 7/16, but the sprockets aren't the pattern I remembered, though I might be using the wrong sprocket--I thought it had more of a gap for the track to fit in. I'd appreciate your input Jean. While I'd like to see if this will work, it'd be nice to know how much effort it's worth. Since I'm looking at making tanks in this scale as a business, I'm also looking at doing realistic metal tracks, though that'll require work to find a process that doesn't take hours and hours of run time on machines to make one set. Also threw in a pic of the model for the hull. I need to get a few cuts on the table saw done, and I'll be able to finish assembling the hull and start putting motors and stuff in it. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to _rctankcombat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com) . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [TANKS] Re: Treads
It won't work. I don't get picks of my testing but I tryed exacly the same idea. It's hard to explane... When you got your track straight let say that you got .125inch of space between each treads. Yours treads are on the outside of the chain axle so with a larger radius then the chain axle. When your treads go arround let say the idler the chains will do there jobs buy turning arround each pins of the chain. It's make the space between yours treads larger(let say .25inch) of what they are when they are straight(I'm sure that all tankers that have tryed attachement treads can confirm that) . When I saw this, I though that I just needed to make theeths on my sprocket .25 inch large to fit in the space of the treads, but when the track becomes straight, the space close and cut the teeth that you try to put in. So, I tryed to do the same thing but with .125inch theeths but it did the same things... The problem is that the total length of the treads and the spaces changes drastically from around your sprocket to straigth line I had invested around 200$ of bike chain, bolts, nuts and aluminium treads pad few year ago thinking that I was smarter then other guys... I have waste two month in prototype making with all the manners I could think to make its work that way Seriously the tank i'm working on is made with the simple and durable Tyng Tracks System with sprocket drive and the 25ft of chain geting dusty in a corner of my garage. You can try if you want but if you understand what i'm trying to explain, it will be better to think about building your track a different way. Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 14:55:24 -0700 From: kunkmies...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: Treads I'm guessing attachment chain is designed with ready bolt holes? Sounds like it would be a bit more expensive, people wouldn't use it as much. As for the skip tooth IIRC it's best just made--cut out the desired teeth by whatever method you care for. I'm planning on a modified chain track system--two chains on each belt, and wooden treads just screwed on. The big difference was instead of friction drive, I was going to cut sprockets that actually engage the treads. It'll take some math, and without modeling software some trial and error, but it shouldn't be terribly difficult to get the sprocket right. This gives the reliability of a sprocket drive, without the mess of dealing with modifying sprockets or any of that. You could also do something similar with the larger roller chain down the middle, using sprockets on the treads instead of the chain to drive it. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads
Chris, IIRC that was more or less how the first chain tracks were made. I refer to the article: http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ The original fix to the derailing was to skip the sprockets and go to a friction drive. I'm going to make larger sprockets that will engage the track itself, not the chain. I'm thinking plywood might be enough, definitely test some of that before plunging in to cut aluminum though, even if I need metal in the end. Jean, if you only got an eighth of an inch between tracks, it's never gonna work right. Looking at the M1 Abrams(my build), the tracks are designed so the lugs on the outside the sprockets engage have space between them roughly the same as the length of the lug. This gives enough space for a decent sprocket tooth to engage the track. I'm not doing it quite like that, so the gaps are thinner, but you do have to make them big enough for a decent sprocket tooth. The Abrams has about 11 teeth on the track sprockets, even scaled down, that means a lot more than 1/8 between track pads. Gotta have the space to make it work. I've messed around with this a bit in Solidworks, and I'll mess around some more most likely before I start making stuff, and do some simple tests before going whole hog. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads
I used a double chain setup at one point. It worked...OK. On occasion it would come off. The problem was that the tracks didn't always track straight due to the friction with the ground. With the attachment chain, the chain is so stiff that there is no deflection which is why it works so well and the large sprocket engagement area. Derek On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 4:08 AM, Loren kunkmies...@gmail.com wrote: Chris, IIRC that was more or less how the first chain tracks were made. I refer to the article: http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ The original fix to the derailing was to skip the sprockets and go to a friction drive. I'm going to make larger sprockets that will engage the track itself, not the chain. I'm thinking plywood might be enough, definitely test some of that before plunging in to cut aluminum though, even if I need metal in the end. Jean, if you only got an eighth of an inch between tracks, it's never gonna work right. Looking at the M1 Abrams(my build), the tracks are designed so the lugs on the outside the sprockets engage have space between them roughly the same as the length of the lug. This gives enough space for a decent sprocket tooth to engage the track. I'm not doing it quite like that, so the gaps are thinner, but you do have to make them big enough for a decent sprocket tooth. The Abrams has about 11 teeth on the track sprockets, even scaled down, that means a lot more than 1/8 between track pads. Gotta have the space to make it work. I've messed around with this a bit in Solidworks, and I'll mess around some more most likely before I start making stuff, and do some simple tests before going whole hog. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [TANKS] Re: Treads
Wich Abrams you made??? I would like to see this because like I said I made a lot of try before to cancel the project... When I was saying 1/8'' it was just to image the thing because in real its was 5/16'' straight and more 3/8'' inch around a 4'' wheels Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 02:08:14 -0700 From: kunkmies...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads Chris, IIRC that was more or less how the first chain tracks were made. I refer to the article: http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ The original fix to the derailing was to skip the sprockets and go to a friction drive. I'm going to make larger sprockets that will engage the track itself, not the chain. I'm thinking plywood might be enough, definitely test some of that before plunging in to cut aluminum though, even if I need metal in the end. Jean, if you only got an eighth of an inch between tracks, it's never gonna work right. Looking at the M1 Abrams(my build), the tracks are designed so the lugs on the outside the sprockets engage have space between them roughly the same as the length of the lug. This gives enough space for a decent sprocket tooth to engage the track. I'm not doing it quite like that, so the gaps are thinner, but you do have to make them big enough for a decent sprocket tooth. The Abrams has about 11 teeth on the track sprockets, even scaled down, that means a lot more than 1/8 between track pads. Gotta have the space to make it work. I've messed around with this a bit in Solidworks, and I'll mess around some more most likely before I start making stuff, and do some simple tests before going whole hog. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads
I've not yet put it together, just modeled it. I'll get some pictures when I'm at school tomorrow and see what you think. IIRC I had more than 5/16 between treads, and I was trying to model the sprocket after the real thing. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads
either i've missed something or i've missed something... I'm guessing attachment chain is designed with ready bolt holes? Sounds like it would be a bit more expensive, people wouldn't use it as much. As for the skip tooth IIRC it's best just made--cut out the desired teeth by whatever method you care for. yes, attachment chain has holes in the tabs to bolt to/through. if you mean costly as in attachment chain vs bike chain, yes, but worth it if comparing the two. as to people not using it as much as to it being pricey, i think it also has to do with what the builder is use to/feels comfortable with or needs for their particular build. as for the skip tooth, i take it you are referring to using bike chain and bolting treads through every other link causing the builder to have to notch out the sprockets every other tooth? I'm planning on a modified chain track system--two chains on each belt, and wooden treads just screwed on. The big difference was instead of friction drive, I was going to cut sprockets that actually engage the treads. It'll take some math, and without modeling software some trial and error, but it shouldn't be terribly difficult to get the sprocket right. This gives the reliability of a sprocket drive, without the mess of dealing with modifying sprockets or any of that. You could also do something similar with the larger roller chain down the middle, using sprockets on the treads instead of the chain to drive it. when you say modified chain track system, i take it your making the tracks like the skip tooth you described above? the sprockets i take it will engage the tracks like the sprockets on a Sherman? you are correct in that a person could use a sprocket (like a Sherman) on the treads when using attachment chain - but other than to make it look nicer, why not just use the matching sprockets for the attachment chain? i take it your be making your sprockets out of aluminum plate? chris -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
