[Repeater-Builder] Re: LBI30200 UHF Exciter PDF

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

Thanks to John Lloyd K7JL...

A copy of the LBI30200 UHF Exciter PDF showed up in
my email today, and it is now on the LBI library page at
repeater-builder at


Mike WA6ILQ





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Wow.

[Dave VanHorn]

Just got back from retuning the cans at the 146.850 machine in muncie.

Very interesting.  The machine has been pretty limited in range for 
years, and I expected that the cans would be off, but never how FAR 
they were off..  If the pass and notch weren't so flat and ragged, I 
would have thought they were tuned for a different pair!   The notch 
on the receive, if I can believe my eyes, was on the wrong side of 
the pass!I had previosly replaced the cables between the radios 
and the cans, but I didn't expect it to make that large a 
difference.  Still, I hadn't measured the cans before I started, so 
maybe they were just that bad or nearly so to start with... I don't 
have a service monitor, my Tek 7L14 and tracking generator is not all 
that portable, but I didn't buy it for portability.

They are now dialed in pretty well, at least as well as I can do with 
my tracking generator and analyzer.  I didn't hear any desense when I 
enabled the transmitter, so I guess that will do for now.  All the 
cables are new, half-wave runs of LMR-400.  I have a local source now 
for FSJ1-50, and the appropriate connectors, so I'll be going up 
again when those are in hand.

It's a nice feeling to take an old neglected machine, and get it back 
in shape again.
Given the site and antenna, I'd say we are doing pretty well, judging 
by signal reports and some drive tests tonight.

:)






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Digest Number 3074

[NØATH]

Say What?

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:28 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Digest 
  Number 3074
  
  I use echo station for a few repeater ups a ups any you will be fine in 
  you need cables for your radios e-mail me [EMAIL PROTECTED]













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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Digest Number 3074

[paulnannery]

I use echo station for a few repeater ups a ups any you will be fine in you 
need cables for your radios e-mail me [EMAIL PROTECTED]













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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a schematic

[Dr. Ron Johnson]

Thanks a bunch.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mark 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:17 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a 
  schematic
  
  I'll send you a scan in the morning.  finals 
  are mrf648's, driver is a mrf646
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Dr. Ron 
Johnson 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:34 
PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need a 
schematic

Folks,  Does anyone have a schematic for a 
Trilectric A-25100UR?   I think I have a blown transistor...or 
two.
 
Thanks
Ron



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[Repeater-Builder] Decibel Products 800 MHz 155 watt Power Amplifier

[Paul Finch]

Hello,
 
Does 
anyone have a scanned schematic of the Decibel Products 800 MHz 155 watt Power 
Amplifier?  I have one that I need to repair and DB wants $1,100.00 to do 
the repairs.  I have not gotten into it yet, will do that tomorrow I 
guess.
 
Paul
 













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[Repeater-Builder] DB4140 and DB2120

[Tom Tishken KD4WOV\(laptop\)]

I have several DB4140 and DB2120 Notch filters.

I have 2 freqs thati want to use.
144.390
145.010

With the above filters they work great for getting rid of 145.010 (95 db of
rejection) but
when i tune 4 cans for 144.390(97 Db of rejection)i end up with  10 db of
loss on 145.010.

Is there a way to turn these around so there is less loss above the notch?

73 de kd4wov





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help: Converting 150 MC cavities to 222 MC??

[DCFluX]

The phenomenon you are seeing is because the 1/4 wave size at VHF is
3/4 wave at UHF.

I believe the hybrid duplexer design uses 2 or 4 notch only cavities. 
If you haven't drilled holes in the side 2 of the band pass cavitiys I
believe they can be converted to notch only by simply removing the 2nd
coupling loop and puting a metal slug in to cover the hole.

Then I would use the 3rd cavity in a Pass/Reject configuration. 
Piston trimmers should work fine on the coupling loop. Should be more
tempreture stable than Vynal.  I believe WACOM uses Delrin.  You may
be able to get this or Teflon rod from small parts inc if you wish to
take the same approch and build stubs.

On 4/12/05, derek_mcintyre <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello group,
> I have been working on building a duplexer for 222 MHz from old 150
> MHz cavities.  I have three Decibel products cans, which look the
> size of regular 150 MHz cans, but have been told they are actually an
> old 450 MHz all pass-band duplexer.  I don't know the model number
> but they are beige in color and look really old.  They will tune very
> good throughout the 440-470 band, but also work good on 144-174,
> too.  The plunge rod is nearly identical to the old Wacom 2M ham
> duplexers.  Since it is just a pass band cavity, there are two
> coupling loops, one input, and one output.
> 
> Using the same loops, I cut one of the rods down nearly 4 inches,
> then spliced with a 1 inch copper coupling and soldered together.
> Now the can tunes a good pass band at 222-225 MHz also.
> 
> I really wanted to create a hybrid ring 3 cavity duplexer for a new
> 220 repeater, two cavities on RX and one for TX, band-pass, band-
> reject, like the Wacom deals with the rod on the side which has a
> plexiglass looking dielectric that slides in and out in order to
> determine the position of the notch.
> 
> I took my existing 220 duplexer (Wacom) loops out and the reject stub
> also, and tried to duplicate it as closely as possible.  So far the
> results look promising.  I am using 3/8" hard drawn copper for the
> sleeve, and a piece of #10 wire for the inner conductor, and some
> vinyl tubing to slide in and out to vary the capacitance.  I couldn't
> find any better means of making a capacitor than this, and my first
> question is, will this be stable in an uncontrolled environment?  90
> deg in summer and 40 in winter.
> 
> Second, I measured the capacitance of the Wacom stubs and get
> somewhere around 7 pF.  I have a bunch of piston type caps that will
> give this value, plus or minus, but don't know exactly how to
> incorporate this into the hybrid ring design.  I am tired of randomly
> trying pieces of copper straps for different lengths of coupling
> loops and wonder if anyone has a proper way to determine coupling
> loop lengths?
> 
> Third, the repeater will not be operating in a high RF environment.
> Would it be more practical to use each can as a notch only (reject)
> cavity?  If so, how in the world do you make coupling loops to work
> for band reject only?  I have tried taking one loop, running it down
> the cavity for several inches, then directly back up and to ground
> again.  Then taking a tee connector and going across it, but with the
> tracking generator, my notch is only like 6 dB deep which obviously
> won't work.
> 
> Any suggestions or links you can think of to help me build a 220
> duplexer out of the parts I have mentioned above?  I have a decent
> shop and can do light precision machine work.
> 
> Thanks.
> 73, KC4FWC
> 
> http://www.w4dex.com/kc4fwc/224480.htm
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a schematic

[Mark]

I'll send you a scan in the morning.  finals 
are mrf648's, driver is a mrf646

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dr. Ron 
  Johnson 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:34 
  PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need a 
  schematic
  
  Folks,  Does anyone have a schematic for a 
  Trilectric A-25100UR?   I think I have a blown transistor...or 
  two.
   
  Thanks
  Ron
  
  

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB 4062 Duplexer repair

[DCFluX]

If they are piston trimmers,  grab a ICOM for a GE MASTR-II, as long
as it is not a low band version.  This is a cheap and readily avalible
source.  But you may have to solder the trimmer in place as I don't
think the outer ring on the capacitor  is threaded.

On 4/12/05, Tom Tishken KD4WOV(laptop) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
>   Our club has a set of DB products DB4062 duplexer.
> We need to replace the notch caps (one is bad for sure, very erratic
> operation when tuning).
> Where could we get replacements or is there a substitution?
> 
> thanks in advance
> de kd4wov
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




 
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[Repeater-Builder] Help: Converting 150 MC cavities to 222 MC??

[derek_mcintyre]

Hello group,
I have been working on building a duplexer for 222 MHz from old 150 
MHz cavities.  I have three Decibel products cans, which look the 
size of regular 150 MHz cans, but have been told they are actually an 
old 450 MHz all pass-band duplexer.  I don't know the model number 
but they are beige in color and look really old.  They will tune very 
good throughout the 440-470 band, but also work good on 144-174, 
too.  The plunge rod is nearly identical to the old Wacom 2M ham 
duplexers.  Since it is just a pass band cavity, there are two 
coupling loops, one input, and one output.

Using the same loops, I cut one of the rods down nearly 4 inches, 
then spliced with a 1 inch copper coupling and soldered together.  
Now the can tunes a good pass band at 222-225 MHz also.

I really wanted to create a hybrid ring 3 cavity duplexer for a new 
220 repeater, two cavities on RX and one for TX, band-pass, band-
reject, like the Wacom deals with the rod on the side which has a 
plexiglass looking dielectric that slides in and out in order to 
determine the position of the notch.

I took my existing 220 duplexer (Wacom) loops out and the reject stub 
also, and tried to duplicate it as closely as possible.  So far the 
results look promising.  I am using 3/8" hard drawn copper for the 
sleeve, and a piece of #10 wire for the inner conductor, and some 
vinyl tubing to slide in and out to vary the capacitance.  I couldn't 
find any better means of making a capacitor than this, and my first 
question is, will this be stable in an uncontrolled environment?  90 
deg in summer and 40 in winter.

Second, I measured the capacitance of the Wacom stubs and get 
somewhere around 7 pF.  I have a bunch of piston type caps that will 
give this value, plus or minus, but don't know exactly how to 
incorporate this into the hybrid ring design.  I am tired of randomly 
trying pieces of copper straps for different lengths of coupling 
loops and wonder if anyone has a proper way to determine coupling 
loop lengths?

Third, the repeater will not be operating in a high RF environment.  
Would it be more practical to use each can as a notch only (reject) 
cavity?  If so, how in the world do you make coupling loops to work 
for band reject only?  I have tried taking one loop, running it down 
the cavity for several inches, then directly back up and to ground 
again.  Then taking a tee connector and going across it, but with the 
tracking generator, my notch is only like 6 dB deep which obviously 
won't work.  

Any suggestions or links you can think of to help me build a 220 
duplexer out of the parts I have mentioned above?  I have a decent 
shop and can do light precision machine work.

Thanks.
73, KC4FWC

http://www.w4dex.com/kc4fwc/224480.htm







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need a duplexer

[DCFluX]

Doing some research I have found that each interconnecting jumper must
be an electrical 1/4 wave or performance suffers.  The jumpers
attribute 6.5dB each to the isolation of the duplexer.  I havn't
gotten around to replacing the RG-214 jumpers on my set of  2M cavitys
but it may help my performance as the original set is on 156Mhz some
where.

And if you can find one for cheap and circulator in place of the final
RX/TX/ANT Tee helps cans with weak(70-80dB) isolation like the Wacom
WP-639 and Sinclair Q2202E by providing approx an extra 20dB of
isolation.  I picked up a surplus EMR circulator over the weekend for
$50 and already the customers have noticed much improvement.




 
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[Repeater-Builder] DB 4062 Duplexer repair

[Tom Tishken KD4WOV\(laptop\)]

Hello everyone,
  Our club has a set of DB products DB4062 duplexer.
We need to replace the notch caps (one is bad for sure, very erratic
operation when tuning).
Where could we get replacements or is there a substitution?


thanks in advance
de kd4wov





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need a duplexer

[Ken Arck]

At 01:35 AM 4/13/2005 -, you wrote:
>
>I am not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but with these 
>duplexers I have had a hard time with tuning a pair of cavities with 
>the stock phasing lines.  I seem to be getting "double peaks" and the 
>peaks just won't pull together down around 443 MHz.  I went and made 
>new phasing lines out of the same type cable, but just 1/2 inch longer 
>on all lengths.  Now the peaks pull together, therefore resulting in 
>sharper pass band and less loss.  Maybe it was just mine.

<--I've seen many T1500 series duplexers that have the wrong cable kits on
them for the frequency range being tuned. I'm not saying this is the case
with you but it seems many folks who buy them don't understand the color
coding of the cable kits. These are CRITICAL to proper performance. 

I have a couple of T-1504As and each one does > 102 Db notches with < 1.5
Db insertion loss. No slouch but of course, I have the correct cables
installed :-)

Ken

--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need a duplexer

[Kevin Custer]

derek_mcintyre wrote:

>I am not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but with these 
>duplexers I have had a hard time with tuning a pair of cavities with 
>the stock phasing lines.  I seem to be getting "double peaks" and the 
>peaks just won't pull together down around 443 MHz.  I went and made 
>new phasing lines out of the same type cable, but just 1/2 inch longer 
>on all lengths.  Now the peaks pull together, therefore resulting in 
>sharper pass band and less loss.  Maybe it was just mine.
>

Nope,  that is typical.  Tuning with a small hammer is optional, but 
usually results in "good" results.

Kevin





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need a duplexer

[derek_mcintyre]

The T-1504 works very well if clean.  The notches are difficult to tune 
perfectly if the inside of the cavity has been exposed to moisture.  I 
have opened up cavities and cleaned with steel wool and coated with 
light grease and they tune much better.

I am not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but with these 
duplexers I have had a hard time with tuning a pair of cavities with 
the stock phasing lines.  I seem to be getting "double peaks" and the 
peaks just won't pull together down around 443 MHz.  I went and made 
new phasing lines out of the same type cable, but just 1/2 inch longer 
on all lengths.  Now the peaks pull together, therefore resulting in 
sharper pass band and less loss.  Maybe it was just mine.

73, KC4FWC

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A Motorola T-1504 series is an excellent choice. Should be available 
used
> for $125-$150. 73,
> 
> Kevin, K9HX
> 
> At 12:10 PM 4/12/2005, you wrote:
> 
> >Do you have any recommendations on 70cm duplexers capable of 100W?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Need a schematic

[Dr. Ron Johnson]

Folks,  Does anyone have a schematic for a 
Trilectric A-25100UR?   I think I have a blown transistor...or 
two.
 
Thanks
Ron













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Re: [Repeater-Builder] LBI30200 UHF Exciter manual wanted

[Kevin Custer]

Yes, please.

Kevin

Jim Knox wrote:

  Kevin.
   I mailed the CD to you Monday, and I e-mailed the LBI 30200 to
John tonight, I will try to send it to you also. Do you want it sent to
 [EMAIL PROTECTED],com 
  Thanks JK















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Re: [Repeater-Builder] LBI30200 UHF Exciter manual wanted

[Jim Knox]

Kevin.
 I mailed the CD to you Monday, and I e-mailed the LBI 30200 to John tonight, I will try to send it to you also. Do you want it sent to  [EMAIL PROTECTED],com 
Thanks JKKevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim Knox wrote:> Hi John,> I have LBI 30200F. I will scan it and try to send it to you> Thanks Jim Knox N5NWCJim,If you haven't sent the disk to me yet, place the LBI30200F on it and I'll upload it as well.(Jim has been another good source for electronic LBI's for RB)Thanks Jim,KevinYahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
		Do you Yahoo!? 
Make Yahoo! your home page 
 
 














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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a duplexer

[Kevin Berlen, K9HX]

A Motorola T-1504 series is an excellent choice. Should be available used
for $125-$150. 73,

Kevin, K9HX

At 12:10 PM 4/12/2005, you wrote:

>Do you have any recommendations on 70cm duplexers capable of 100W?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Kevin Custer wrote:
> > Dr. Ron Johnson wrote:
> >
> >> We just got approved for a repeater on 2 meters.  I need a duplexer.
> >> Anybody got one laying around?  Also,  what do you all think about the
> >> mobile duplexers and low power duplexers from Sinclair on ebay?  I
> >> used to use a Wacom years ago.  Gave the repeater to the club and
> >> moved to 450 but now am going to add this new 2 meter machine for our
> >> little county which currently has no 2 meter service.  Just wondered
> >> what ya'll think
> >
> >
> > In the used field, a Wacom WP-641 or better yet the WP-642 are great.
> > Expect to pay nearly (over?) $1000 for a 642.
> > 
> 
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] LBI30200 UHF Exciter manual wanted

[Kevin Custer]

Jim Knox wrote:

> Hi John,
>  I have LBI 30200F. I will scan it and try to send it to you
> Thanks Jim Knox N5NWC


Jim,

If you haven't sent the disk to me yet, place the LBI30200F on it and 
I'll upload it as well.
(Jim has been another good source for electronic LBI's for RB)

Thanks Jim,
Kevin





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Standard Crystal Corp.?

[Bob Dengler]

At 4/11/2005 04:13 PM, you wrote:

>Anyone have experience with Standard Crystal?
>(http://www.standardcrystalcorp.com/)
>
>I was just quoted $20 for a pair of crystals (RX and TX) for a bunch of
>UHF portables I have. Just wondering if anyone had any issues with them.
>
>- Rob

I don't know if this is the same Standard Crystal I knew back in the 
'80s.  Standard became "Frequency Management", which still exists at 
www.frequencymanagement.com.

Bob NO6B






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] LBI30200 UHF Exciter manual wanted

[Jim Knox]

Hi John,
 I have LBI 30200F. I will scan it and try to send it to you
Thanks Jim Knox N5NWCJohn Lloyd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am looking for a GE manual for the UHF exciter 19D423865G4.It is GE manual LBI30200.I searched for it on the GE manual listings at Repeater Builders but it is not there.Does someone have a .pdf copy of this manual that they send to me via email?Thank You,John LloydK7JLYahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a duplexer

[Nick Papadonis]

Do you have any recommendations on 70cm duplexers capable of 100W?

Thanks


Kevin Custer wrote:
> Dr. Ron Johnson wrote:
> 
>> We just got approved for a repeater on 2 meters.  I need a duplexer. 
>> Anybody got one laying around?  Also,  what do you all think about the
>> mobile duplexers and low power duplexers from Sinclair on ebay?  I
>> used to use a Wacom years ago.  Gave the repeater to the club and
>> moved to 450 but now am going to add this new 2 meter machine for our
>> little county which currently has no 2 meter service.  Just wondered
>> what ya'll think
> 
> 
> In the used field, a Wacom WP-641 or better yet the WP-642 are great. 
> Expect to pay nearly (over?) $1000 for a 642.
> 
> 




 
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[Repeater-Builder] LBI30200 UHF Exciter manual wanted

[John Lloyd]

I am looking for a GE manual for the UHF exciter 19D423865G4.

It is GE manual LBI30200.

I searched for it on the GE manual listings at Repeater Builders but it 
is not there.
Does someone have a .pdf copy of this manual that they send to me via 
email?

Thank You,

John Lloyd
K7JL






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: GLB Part

[kc4wgh]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "kc4wgh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector-
> Preamp.  This is for the two (2) meter band.  Here's the
information 
> (best that I can see)   M (batwing) u 901  Thanks in advance

Thanks to all for your help with this transistor.  I ordered two (2) 
MRF-901 yesterday.  I also found what looks to be a sub for the MRF-
901 this morning.  It's NTE64 with a 0.190 Dia., and four leads
length from tip to tip of 0.770.  Again, thanks for this site and 
those that use it!
David







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LF: Midland VHF PA 70-3300 info

[Jim B.]

Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:

> There's a little bit of info at 
> ,
> but not much.  If anybody wants to donate some more I'll post it.
> 
> Mike WA6ILQ 

I can toss in a quick note about the 154 & 254 Icom H/U16 clones. The 
charging contacts on the batteries are different mechanically. They are 
interchangable on the radio, but you can't put a Midland battery in an 
Icom charger, or an Icom battery in a Midland charger.
-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Kenwood TK-780 repeater controllerhookup

[Mike Perryman]

You guys have taken this to a whole new level.  There was "overclocking"
when my water cooled ATV experiment was conducted...  but everything was
"one-off" custom stuff.  Nowhere near the variety of implementation choices
one would have today.
Therefore, I think I will back away very quietly and slowly from this one..
;-)
Have fun..
mike

-Original Message-
From: DCFluX [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 8:20 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Kenwood TK-780 repeater
controllerhookup



If you wan't to play with water cooling a radio I would recommend a few
things.

The bigest problem would be the water to radio interface (water
block).  If this was me, I would take a MASTR-II mobile, and remove
the heatsink assembly. Then sand blast the paint off it.  And
interface a 1/2" copper water pipe by drilling a 5/8" hole through the
heatsink fins, from left to right so the pipe went through the centers
of all the fins.

If you are a real bad-ass you use a drill bit that was one size too
small and then cool the copper pipe in LN2 and heat the alumium block
and press fit them.  But with the precision of standard hand tools I
would use a relaible product to solder the pipe to the aluminum like
bernzomatics aluminum solder, but you will need a ass load of heat.
Stay away from "Solder-It" paste, it sucks.

Use regular copper solder to attach 1/2" brass nipples in the right
angle variety to the pipe.

Once cooled, re-paint the heatsink like nothing happened.

For pumps I recommend anything by Hydor.  Paticularly the 900gph L45
or 320 gph L35. they are 120V and I have had zero problems with mine.
Quiet too.  Convection systems never work, and you end up boiling your
equipment befor the water actually moves.

For radiators go for a new heater core from your local radiator shop.
Grab the biggest they have and ask nicely for them to change the
inlets to 1/2" or what ever size tubing you want.  If you get one big
enough you may not even need to bother with a fan.  But a standard car
fan works fine hear if you just went with a straight up radiator.

For tubing go with anything that is Tygon.  I have had problems with
the standard "Clear Flex 60" .  Thick wall (1/8") resists kinks, but
standard wall is eaisier to work with.  Hose clamp everything,
thighten the clamps tell your knucles hurt and then put an extra turn
in there.  I have killed a couple of mother boards due to small leaks
by "calling it good".

Fill your system with the 2 dollar a gallon steam distilled water, you
don't want any calcium floating around in there.  You shouldn't need
to add antifreze unless your system is going to be out doors.
Antifreze decreases the heat transfer anyways.
Add a stearilizer to the water to keep it from going "stanky".  Such
as a capfull of bleach or CLR.

A simple water preasure sensor can be made by attaching a magnet to a
piece of cork and floating it in a cylinder that has the pumps outlet
directly under the cork and pushing it up to a reed switch by the
water preasure.

Also dual pumps could be employed for redundency.

On Apr 11, 2005 4:45 PM, Dave VanHorn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> At 06:31 PM 4/11/2005, Mark Holman wrote:
>
> >I seen in a computer mag called Maximum PC a article on a liquid cooled
PC ,
> >I do know your RF Amp on Broadcast Gear has a cooling pump, but I like
that
> >idea of a pumpless cooling system, I think if someone wanted to
experiment
> >with the same technology as a Solar heating system, maybe some
engineering
> >someone could design such a system.  just some thoughts there.  and be
> >Energy Star compliant ???
>
> One of the nicer points of a water cooled PC system, is that even if
> the pump fails, the water will keep the CPU temperature from rising
> very fast, and allow the overtemp alarm more time between "what's
> going on?" and "fried CPU".
>
> Maybe it's not there yet, but it seems like something to keep an eye on.
>
> They also had small, and large peltier coolers, the larger one being
> about 3" square.
> Those make me nervous though, in that if you get below the dew point,
> then you get condensation, which is bad.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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[Repeater-Builder] GLB / MRF-901

[Richard D. Reese]

I have received many requests for the GLB transistor.  I only have two left 
that are not promised.   I will give them to anyone that is willing to make 
a donation to OMIK Scholarship Fund.

The transistor is a BFW92 which is a drop-in replacement for the obsolete 
MRF-901.  I have a PDF data sheet available to anyone requesting it.  I have 
been told that a 2n6621 will also replace the MRF-901 but I have not tried 
that device.


Richard D. Reese
http://www.wa8dbw.ifip.com/Scholarship_Happenings.htm





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] echostation

[Joe]

 I would be sure to use a UPS on the PC so that power glitchs don't reboot or 
cause the computer to freeze up.

Joe

 Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
 =
I am putting a small 440 repeater on the air I am using a small ritron 
repeater and i was considering using echostation and an old pc for my 
Id and other functions 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] echostation

[Paul]

I am putting a small 440 repeater on the air I am using a small ritron 
repeater and i was considering using echostation and an old pc for my 
Id and other functions (the repeater already has a cor built in)
anyone ever use this software? comments, likes ,dislikes?
any input would be appreciated 
thanks 
Paul (n9fco)










 
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