[Repeater-Builder] Motorola TRN-6413A Multi DPL Encoder
Where can I locate a schmatic wiring information on a Motorola TRN-6413A Multi DPL Encoder board, which I have? Which Motorola units used/use them? Thanks, 73's, Jim Kh6jkg. __ Switch to Netscape Internet Service. As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Netscape. Just the Net You Need. New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer questions
Mark, If I may throw my two cents into this. I would not run the power into the cavities more than they are rated for. You could be really looking for problems down the road as Eric said. Look at it this way. You can buy many different tires for say a Corvette. Some of the may be only rated at say 100 MPH and cheaper. The Vet may run 140 - 150. That 100 MPH tire will most likely hold up at 140 or 150 MPH, but do you want to be the one to find out if it would or would not. I would not bet MY life on it. This analogy may be crude but I think that it works. The same goes for the duplexers. I would not be bet the life or my PAs either. Another viewpoint. The rating of the cavities by be what you can inject into the duplex system and still maintain the isolation rating. You may not harm the cavities but I still stick with what I said earlier. Drop the power to 100 Watts. This or see if you can pick up another set of cavities. The ones that I picked up were near new from a local two-way shop and I think are rated at 250 Watts. I think that I gave 250 for them. May have just got lucky but maybe you can also. Just my two cents worth. james// -Original Message- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Recrystalled Element Problem
MAN!! I wish you could teach this idea to some of the guys around here. One of the local REPEATER OWNERS favorite phase is This is ham, not commercial and it works doesn't it Just because it is ham does not mean that it has to cost what the new commercial cost, but it does not have to sound like CRAP either, or be 20 Kc wide on transmit. Sorry for the rant. Just could not help myself. james// 10 Years Paging and Cellular 13 Years Amature Radio -Original Message- [ Unnecessary requoting deleted ~ Moderator4 ] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions
*This* is what I was trying to find out. At least I think I have enough headroom to work with until I can get a newer or better set of jugs... Thanks, Neil! -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of nj902 Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:52 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, N9WYS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ...from an MSR2000 110W station. ... so does anyone know whether there is there any headroom ... The Motorola MSR2000 UHF duplexer, model number T4084A, T4085A, or T5002A is rated at 250 Watts maximum input. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The names are somewhat misleading, because the bandpass effect is relatively modest, although the notch is quite sharp. It is a good idea to have a pure bandpass cavity or two between the duplexer and the receiver, especially if you have a preamplifier. Eric, I agree with that. Since the bandpass effect is so modest, and since an additional bandpass cavity or two will probably be needed anyway, why are BpBr duplexers considered to be so important at a busy site, compared to say- a notch duplexer??? It seems notch duplexers are automatically considered to be almost a useless item when the subject of duplexers is discussed here, and should (almost) never be used. The additional loss of that pass cavity is nil. Comments Eric or anyone? Laryn K8TVZ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer questions
At 2/8/2006 19:55, you wrote: Another viewpoint. The rating of the cavities by be what you can inject into the duplex system and still maintain the isolation rating. You may not harm the cavities but I still stick with what I said earlier. Drop the power to 100 Watts. This or I once tried to TX through a 6-section UHF mobile duplexer (similar to the PD-633-6, rated for 50 watts) with 100 watts. As I turned up the power, the Teflon insulator in the first TX section began to arc at ~80-85 watts. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
Well, I'm going to go out on a limb disagree with Jeff, perhaps for the first time ever. That's OK, we'll still let you hang around our tent and drink our beer at Dayton :-) Are you going again this year Bob?. My conclusion is that if whatever you're using to measure amplitude is sensitive enough everything is close to 50 ohms, tuning for max. trans. is good enough. My take on the situation is that I'd rather have everything as close to 50 ohms as possible. If there is any variation in the system outside the duplexer/cavities that you can't control (such as Z changing due to antennas icing up), the transformation effects of the cavities should be minimal. Also, by keeping all of the passives at 50 ohms in and out, it eliminates much of the uncertainty when adding additional cavities (e.g. pass cavity ahead of a receiver) or when adding an isolator that was bench-tuned with 50 ohm loads. I'll take consistent performance over optimum performance when we're talking a one or two tenths of a dB in insertion loss difference. As far as using cavities as matching networks to eek more power out of a PA, without actually looking at the efficiency at different load Z's, there's no telling what the PA is truly happy with. Just because you can squeeze an extra dB out of the amplifier by providing it with an some odd load Z doesn't mean that's the ideal load Z to operate it at. If you have to burn up 50 more watts in heat to get an extra 10 watts out of the PA, that's bad. So, if you lack test equipment and have no choice but to use high-level signals for tuning the pass, you should still be tuning for minimum reflected power. Yes, you can tune your RX cans to maximize power transfer into your RX. But then what happens to your notches which you've just moved as well? You can also tune Rx front ends with a network analyzer or SG/TG and RLB. You will also see that the window response of the front end of your typical two-way radio (Micor, M2, whatever) can be tuned to favor the side away from interference sources (e.g. your transmitter or other co-located transmitters) without any significant detriment to insertion loss at the desired Rx pass frequency. Sounds like a nice piece of test equipment to have around: a 50 dB non-directional coupler. Bird 4274-025 non-directional coupler element. I keep one in each of my 43 cases. Handy to have. --- Jeff Jeff DePolo WN3A - [EMAIL PROTECTED] Broadcast and Communications Consultant Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
The problem is whatever you have is probably not 50 ohms, so your pass cavity or BpBr duplexer cavity becomes a matching transformer. I've seen some cavities actually appear to have gain because by slightly detuning them from the nominal peak one would see if everything was 50 ohms, they matched my test TX to the 50 ohm load on the wattmeter. Right, but what we're concerned with here is maximum performance in- system, not maximally matching an arbitrary standard impedance. A 10 dB/div. log scale on a spectrum analyzer doesn't provide enough sensitivity for this measurement. However, a 2 dB/div. log scale, or better yet a linear scale, is good enough. Have all three, and use them! :) Yes, you can tune your RX cans to maximize power transfer into your RX. But then what happens to your notches which you've just moved as well? Do the notches last. Cable lengths will always be an issue if there are any mismatched ports in the system. This is one of the reasons why I encourage use of isolators on repeater TXs. They may not be necessary at non-comm-sites, but if you start having weird duplexer problems (isn't that the title of this thread), they can help solve a multitude of troubles. Well, I'm ok with that if you're solving a problem that you have, but I wouldn't stick them in there unless there was a problem that needed solving, or I had a situation where I could expect one. Sounds like a nice piece of test equipment to have around: a 50 dB non-directional coupler. Have two, both hamfest items. One is celwave, and the other is a bird slug. Spec on the bird slug is -50 at 25-1000 MHz. Seems to be a pretty rare slug. That's pretty darn good for 2 meters. Around here the 2 meter noise floor is higher than that. That's with the Daniels receivers, and with the antenna connected, so we are seeing the effects of whatever crud is out there. SA shows significant crud up around 160-170 MHz, but adding my Sinclabs bandpass did not improve the sensitivity at all. I go up today to replace the water-damaged GP-9 didn't happen, hopefully today. I spent a lot of time looking for a cheap service monitor so I could have some sort of calibrated signal source at my sites, I'm glad I found one. A little beat up, oddball make with no documentation whatsoever only does 12.5 kHz steps on UHF (a problem here in 20 kHz SoCal), but it gets the job done. Old test equipment is WAY better than none. My spectrum analyzer was current production when I was in high school. (Tek 7L12) Still works nicely, still accurate though it hasn't had a formal recal in a while. I almost always make relative measurements anyway, where more is better is really all I need to know. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
I'll take consistent performance over optimum performance when we're talking a one or two tenths of a dB in insertion loss difference. I understand the situation in those terms. So, if you lack test equipment and have no choice but to use high- level signals for tuning the pass, you should still be tuning for minimum reflected power. So bird inbetween TX and cans, tuning on a source like an HT? Sounds like a nice piece of test equipment to have around: a 50 dB non-directional coupler. Bird 4274-025 non-directional coupler element. I keep one in each of my 43 cases. Handy to have. So that's what that is.. Never could find the exact same thing. A rare bird :) With the part number, I see that RF parts carries them. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
I'll take consistent performance over optimum performance when we're talking a one or two tenths of a dB in insertion loss difference. I thought consistent and optimum performance were pretty much the same animal? :-) skipp Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
I thought consistent and optimum performance were pretty much the same animal? Only under lab conditions :-) Using a vague definition, I'm thinking consistent = best operation over the long term, optimum = best short-term. I've accidentally made a 75 watt Micor UHF PA crank out 200 watts short term by overdriving it, but the long-term performance will eventually degrade to 0 watts... --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
So, if you lack test equipment and have no choice but to use high- level signals for tuning the pass, you should still be tuning for minimum reflected power. So bird inbetween TX and cans, tuning on a source like an HT? Yes. To take it one step further, a 6 dB pad (with suitable power rating of course) between the HT and the Bird would help minimize the Z variation that the PA in the HT sees, thereby reducing the variation in output power, and possibly help save the PA from destruction if the cans are severely detuned. So that's what that is.. Never could find the exact same thing. A rare bird :) With the part number, I see that RF parts carries them. Yeah, and Bird makes other varieties too, including directional coupler elements. I have the directional ones for 1 5/8, 3 1/8, etc. line sections for broadcast work. The one for the Bird 43 is rated for 500 watts maximum thru-line power. The ones for 1 5/8 and larger are rated for much more (I think the 1 5/8 is rated for 25 kW or thereabouts). --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer questions
Here's a thought -- if you put a isolator between the PA and the duplexer, and a isolator between the duplexer and the antenna, wouldn't your duplexer see a near perfect 50 ohms at all times? The isolator in the output of the duplexer would have to replace the output TEE - else you would have 25 plus db of rec loss - REC signal would go into the isolator load.ssb And even then it wouldn't work, because the receive side of the duplexer (connected where a reject load would normally be) doesn't provide a good match at the Tx frequency, so the isolator ends up providing no isolation (i.e. the isolator will no longer be the ideal 50 ohm virtual load that you were hoping for). --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer questions
You do get a 20dB improvement of isolation, this may help if you only have a 4 cavity duplexer.On 2/9/06, Jeff DePolo WN3A [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a thought -- if you put a isolator between the PA and the duplexer, and a isolator between the duplexer and the antenna, wouldn't your duplexer see a near perfect 50 ohms at all times? The isolator in the output of the duplexer would have to replace the output TEE - else you would have 25 plus db of rec loss - REC signal would go into the isolator load.ssbAnd even then it wouldn't work, because the receive side of the duplexer (connected where a reject load would normally be) doesn't provide a goodmatch at the Tx frequency, so the isolator ends up providing no isolation(i.e. the isolator will no longer be the ideal 50 ohm virtual load that you were hoping for).--- JeffYahoo! Groups Links* To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Any Motorola DataTAC pros out there?
If any of you are profecient with Motorolas DataTAC system and RDLAP19.2 and you send me an email. I've got some system questions. Thanks! [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---Tim theVAP.com YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Repeater Controllers - Best bang for the buck?
Hi all, I figured that this may be just the spot to ask such a question. I am looking for a controller that can manage up to two full duplex ports as well as a port for remote control. It would need the option to be able to program the ports independently such that while the primary repeater port would have ID Hang time, I would need to be able to disable both on a secondary. Also, it would need to have the ability to be managed via DTMF control over the secondary or other port. I've briefly looked at the LinkComm's the NHRC's, and the old ACC's but am not sure which would provide the best serivce for the cost. Any thoughts or is this really not the place for this? Thanks in advance! Jim. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] no-mail
Greetings list owner... How do I change my status to no-mail..I want to remain a member just not receive email for the time being... Larry ve3fxq Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer weirdness
Yes. To take it one step further, a 6 dB pad (with suitable power rating of course) between the HT and the Bird would help minimize the Z variation that the PA in the HT sees, thereby reducing the variation in output power, and possibly help save the PA from destruction if the cans are severely detuned. Well, an HT output stage pretty much has to withstand infinite SWR, rather unpredictable normal load. I see what you mean though, the HT wouldn't see the cans anymore, and it's output would remain constant. As it happens, I have a pair of 3dB SMA attenuators that I can use. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater Controllers - Best bang for the buck?
I am looking for a controller that can manage up to two full duplex ports as well as a port for remote control. It would need the option to be able to program the ports independently such that while the primary repeater port would have ID Hang time, I would need to be able to disable both on a secondary. Also, it would need to have the ability to be managed via DTMF control over the secondary or other port. The RC-210 fills that bill nicely. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: no-mail
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, larry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings list owner... How do I change my status to no-mail..I want to remain a member just not receive email for the time being... Log in to the group through the web, www.yahoogroups.com When you're in the message area, right above the messages, and below the ad, is a link Edit Membership.. Take that, and set your email settings to no email Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Controllers - Best bang for the buck?
An SCOM 7K or an ARCOM RC-210 (preferred) What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Controllers - Best bang for the buck?
Hi Jim Best bang for the buck, Linker IIa www.ics-ctrl.com Thanks Brian ka9pmm bsbbsoutlaw wrote: Hi all, I figured that this may be just the spot to ask such a question. I am looking for a controller that can manage up to two full duplex ports as well as a port for remote control. It would need the option to be able to program the ports independently such that while the primary repeater port would have ID Hang time, I would need to be able to disable both on a secondary. Also, it would need to have the ability to be managed via DTMF control over the secondary or other port. I've briefly looked at the LinkComm's the NHRC's, and the old ACC's but am not sure which would provide the best serivce for the cost. Any thoughts or is this really not the place for this? Thanks in advance! Jim. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Looking for Mike WA6ILQ
I don't seem to be getting e-mail messages from you. I need to have a conversation with you. Please contact me here or via private e-mail. Bob M. (MaxTrac/Spectra guy) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] no-mail
Larry, It has been done for you, this time. As others have pointed out, you have to go to the Yahoo Groups website, log-in, and you have many options to choose from... Hope this helps... Kevin larry wrote: Greetings list owner... How do I change my status to no-mail..I want to remain a member just not receive email for the time being... Larry ve3fxq Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Power
Gee- do you really need 150 watts? Most of the UHF installations I have seen, that employed a decent receiver with preamp, could have easily used 150 + watts to be matched. I know of several GE Mastr II UHF 200 watt repeaters, using good preamps, that are matched in performance with a 35 watt mobile. They are single receiver systems using a duplexer and a single antenna. Jeff DePolo has one of these Mastr II, 200 watt UHF's at one of my higher profile sites, and it works great with my 35 watt mobile. With multiple receiver sites on UHF, I'd consider a system with 3 - 400 watts transmitter power; realizing you may not be able to duplex with one antenna unless you have (1) a duplexer that will take the power, (2) a tube amplifier to insure low TX sideband noise, (3) enough duplexer isolation to protect the preamp, if used. YMMV Kevin Custer YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] DB4060 bpbr cable lengths?
Was looking around to see if anyone has factory data on the cavity to cavity and cavity to tee cable lengths for the 146 mhz range. I have one of these duplexers, but I'd like to be sure the cable lengths are correct for 2 meters, and not for some higher commercial pair, if there is a difference. Just looking to maximize the performance. Looks kinda like DB may be out of the duplexer biz now? Can't find anything on the web site about these products anymore. Thanks, dave na6df Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Changing your subscription mode:
Following is a text message that's been passed around other groups, and will henceforth be presented to you monthly, as a reminder. The style will work for any Y!Group... ~/ N8BQN /~ Just a reminder that you needn't go to the Repeater-Builder page at YahooGroups to modify your subscription style. Don't have a YaHoo ID? A blank email to the appropriate address is all it takes! Post message.. Repeater-Builder@YahooGroups.com Digest Form... [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vacation.. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Restore... [EMAIL PROTECTED] * HELP *.. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe... [EMAIL PROTECTED] Old messages are archived at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/messages ( ID Required) Changing email addresses? You CAN Subscribe again via email from the new address, and UnSub from the old, -OR- make the changes at http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups under your login ID. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions
Laryn, That's a very good question! When we speak of notch duplexers we usually mean a mobile duplexer, which usually comprises six helical resonators that are about 1 square. The coupling loops or probes are usually fixed at the factory, and the longitudinal tuning screws simply move the notch. The pass insertion loss is more or less fixed by the design of the duplexer, and is extremely broad. Most such duplexers are intended for splits of 5 MHz or greater. The design of a BpBr duplexer, especially one for 2m application, sacrifices a sharp bandpass response so that the notch can be deep enough at a narrow split- 600 kHz at 2m. At a solitary site, the typical BpBr duplexer will probably work just fine. It's when there are other transmitters nearby that problems occur. The modest bandpass response of a 2m BpBr duplexer may not be tight enough to shut out nearby transmitters that cause desense. That's exactly the situation where additional bandpass-only filtering is necessary. I have one 40 watt MTR2000 2m repeater at a site at which the only other emitter is a 10,000 watt FM broadcast station. The duplexer is a Sinclair Q-202G unit that I tuned on a network analyzer. The repeater had significant desense until I put one 8 bandpass cavity set for 1.0 dB IL on the receive side, between the duplexer RX output and the receiver. With no preamp, the desense went away, and the repeater has phenomenal sensitivity and range. Your comment that the additional pass cavity loss is nil, might be overly optimistic. Truth be told, two pass cavities set for 0.5 dB IL are significantly better than one cavity at 1.0 dB. Lower IL means a much broader response. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Laryn Lohman Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:17 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The names are somewhat misleading, because the bandpass effect is relatively modest, although the notch is quite sharp. It is a good idea to have a pure bandpass cavity or two between the duplexer and the receiver, especially if you have a preamplifier. Eric, I agree with that. Since the bandpass effect is so modest, and since an additional bandpass cavity or two will probably be needed anyway, why are BpBr duplexers considered to be so important at a busy site, compared to say- a notch duplexer??? It seems notch duplexers are automatically considered to be almost a useless item when the subject of duplexers is discussed here, and should (almost) never be used. The additional loss of that pass cavity is nil. Comments Eric or anyone? Laryn K8TVZ Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] RC-85 Help...
I have an RC-85 and i can get all of the points out of it no problem. The difficulty I am having is that when the repeater gives the COR signal to the controller, the audio path is muted going to the transmitter. Without the cor signal present, i am getting audio out of that point. The indicator lights is ON under the base position. Is there a way to get it back to factory default? I tried resetting the UL code but it will not take. Thanks Andy KC2GOW (double post to ACC/Repeater-Builder for input) Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RC-85 Help...
sounds like inverted logic on the COR circuit somewhere.. df --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Andrew [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have an RC-85 and i can get all of the points out of it no problem. The difficulty I am having is that when the repeater gives the COR signal to the controller, the audio path is muted going to the transmitter. Without the cor signal present, i am getting audio out of that point. The indicator lights is ON under the base position. Is there a way to get it back to factory default? I tried resetting the UL code but it will not take. Thanks Andy KC2GOW (double post to ACC/Repeater-Builder for input) Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RC-85 Help...
Flip the dip switch that controls the COS polarity. Kevin Andrew wrote: I have an RC-85 and i can get all of the points out of it no problem. The difficulty I am having is that when the repeater gives the COR signal to the controller, the audio path is muted going to the transmitter. Without the cor signal present, i am getting audio out of that point. The indicator lights is ON under the base position. Is there a way to get it back to factory default? I tried resetting the UL code but it will not take. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Controllers - Best bang for the buck?
Check out the cat 400 at www.catauto.com. Mike N8RQU --- bsbbsoutlaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I figured that this may be just the spot to ask such a question. I am looking for a controller that can manage up to two full duplex ports as well as a port for remote control. It would need the option to be able to program the ports independently such that while the primary repeater port would have ID Hang time, I would need to be able to disable both on a secondary. Also, it would need to have the ability to be managed via DTMF control over the secondary or other port. I've briefly looked at the LinkComm's the NHRC's, and the old ACC's but am not sure which would provide the best serivce for the cost. Any thoughts or is this really not the place for this? Thanks in advance! Jim. Yahoo! Groups Links [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] controller question
Is there a repeater controller that I could use to tie an Echolink and IRLP together with? One that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Chris KA7CJH Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] controller question
If you have an IRLP node you can easily install Echolink on it, and then they'll both use the same hardware. Richard, N7TGB -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chris Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:21 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] controller question Is there a repeater controller that I could use to tie an Echolink and IRLP together with? One that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Chris KA7CJH Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] DB4060 bpbr cable lengths?
Dave, I was seeking similar information a while back for an older set of DB cans that I got which came without the cabling... If memory serves me correctly, the answer was to start out using 1/2 wavelength sections between the individual cans, and 1/4 wavelength sections from the cans to the Tee. When I fabricated my jumpers using these specs, the cans tuned up nicely on the network analyzer - so either I got lucky, or the info was spot-on... But once they were put on the air, I ended up taking them back down. HUGE insertion losses - 4dB - that couldn't be tuned out. Narrowed it down to one cavity -- but without disassembly, I was unable to resolve the issue. Oh well. Hope this helps you a bit. Good luck. Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of na6df Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:03 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] DB4060 bpbr cable lengths? Was looking around to see if anyone has factory data on the cavity to cavity and cavity to tee cable lengths for the 146 mhz range. I have one of these duplexers, but I'd like to be sure the cable lengths are correct for 2 meters, and not for some higher commercial pair, if there is a difference. Just looking to maximize the performance. Looks kinda like DB may be out of the duplexer biz now? Can't find anything on the web site about these products anymore. Thanks, dave na6df Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Most such duplexers are intended for splits of 5 MHz or greater. True, probably most, but the subject comes up fairly often on the list, as to whether a notch-only duplexer is suitable at a certain site. The old DB4048, if I have the number right, is an example of a VHF notch duplexer made for 600kc split. We have one in service on one of our repeaters. Your comment that the additional pass cavity loss is nil, might be overly optimistic. Truth be told, two pass cavities set for 0.5 dB IL are significantly better than one cavity at 1.0 dB. Lower IL means a much broader response. Yup, understand. And I guess my comment about the IL being nil was meant to be relative. .5 to 1.0db is probably tolerable, although anything, especially on the receive side, is too much. As I see it, the bottom line from this, is that a notch duplexer, then, is not necessarily taboo, even at a busy site, because you can always add pass cavities to tighten up if needed. And, at a dense RF site, you may need to add selectivity even with a BpBr duplexer. Laryn K8TVZ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] controller question
Just use ANY 3 (or more) port repeater controller. Port 1 - repeater port 2 - IRLP port 3 - Echolink -- Original Message -- Received: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 09:21:16 PM CST From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] controller question Is there a repeater controller that I could use to tie an Echolink and IRLP together with? One that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Chris KA7CJH Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
