[Repeater-Builder] Radius M208 Service Manual

[Dan]

Does anyone on the group have a service manual for a Motorola Radius
M208. We have one of these radios at our 10 meter receive site that
needs repair. The repeater is down until I can locate a service manual
for it.
Dan, N9UWE

[Repeater-Builder] Sinclair link

[Mick Lindley]

I'm sorry I forgot the link in the first post.
http://my.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyeBay&ssPageName=STRK%3AME%3ALNLK&CurrentPage=MyeBaySelling&MyeBay=&guest=1
Mick

-- 
I pledge allegiance to the flag of the  United States of
America,  and to the republic for which it stands, one
nation,  UNDER GOD,   indivisible,   with  liberty  and
justice   for   all.
-
Never own anything you aren't willing to drill a hole in.
See our web site at http://LindleyOnline.com

Re: [Repeater-Builder] 220MHz Repeater Amp.

[James Adkins]

Crescend makes ;possibly the best out there, but I don't know if they make
any that will cover the 220 ham band.

On 10/7/07, Eric Lemmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>   Adam,
>
> Look into TPL amplifiers, at www.tpl.com
>
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Adam C. Feuer
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 3:29 PM
> To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com 
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 220MHz Repeater Amp.
>
> Hello All,
>
> Looking for any suggestions other than Henry Radio or TE Systems for
> a 220MHz repeater amp. Preferably 5 to 10 watts in with 100 or so out.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Adam N2ACF
>
> 
>



-- 
James Adkins, KB0NHX
Vice-President & Repeater Trustee
Nixa Amateur Radio Club, Inc. (KC0LUN)

District 1 Technical Field Engineer
Troop A--Lee's Summit; Troop H--St. Joseph
Missouri State Highway Patrol
504 SE Blue Parkway  Lee's Summit, MO  64063
816-622-0707 ext. 235
417-840-5261 (Cell)

"Those saying it can't be done should stay out of the way of those doing
it"  --Chinese proverb accepted and adhered to by the Nixa Amateur Radio
Club, Inc.,

A 501(c)(3) organization working together with the community to enhance the
robustness of Southwest Missouri Emergency Communications

[Repeater-Builder] GLB 400b Channelizer Schematic/Manual

[Steve White]

Can anyone point me to where I can find a manual for the GLB400b 
Channelizer?  I have an operators manual but there is no schematic and 
as it turns out there are some un-attached wires floating aroud inside 
and I need to find out where they go toAny help would be great.. I 
looked on the repeater builder web site but no luck

Steve NU0P

RE: [Repeater-Builder] duplexer isolation and receiver noise budget

[John Barrett]

OK - the problem may have just gotten beyond easy solution...

 

I just checked with the repeater coordination folks, and if I'm going VHF at
all, I'm looking at a year or 2 for a coordinated pair in this area, which
pushes me off to the 145.250 / 144.650 "backyard" repeater pair.. which puts
me smack dab in the middle of the APRS and winlink frequencies :-)

 

So if I'm going to attempt that, I'm going to have transmitters on 144.39,
145.01-09, and 145.25.. and I have to protect receivers on 144.39, 144.65
and 145.05

 

At this point I'm probably going to stick the repeater up on the UHF
"backyard" pair (once I find out what it is !!)

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Montierth
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 7:43 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] duplexer isolation and receiver noise budget

 

I think you need to identify what your priorities for this project are.
If it's not cost, then there are several ways to do this thing. It
seems like your biggest concern might be physical size of the cavity
package.

If that is the case, what I would do would be to get a repeater pair in
the 147MHz range, the upper meg of 2M. If that is possible you could
get two 2M duplexers, one for the 147 repeater, and another for the
144/145 frequencies. Now you have everything combined into two antenna
ports, one for the 144/145 stuff and one for the 147 repeater.

Next, you need a way to combine these two ports into one antenna. This
could be done with several notch type cavities, or a wideband pass type
duplexer.

The duplexer solution would be easier, and take less rack space. There
is a company called DCI that can build you a custom BP duplexer that
would cover the 144/145 on one port and 147 on the other. Should be
able to make it with 60 to 70dB of isolation between the two ports, and
about 1.5 to 2 dB of insertion loss.

Now depending on the duplexers that you choose, it should all fit on
less than one standard 6ft rack, maybe even half a rack.

You should end up with 75+ dB of isolation from any port to any other,
and probably about 3 to 3.5 dB of insertion loss, which is a little
much, but acceptable for this type of operation.

The bad news is the cost. This could be in the 6K range, give or take,
maybe as little as 3K, if you can shop around for the 2 duplexers, and
are not overly concerned about the size.

Contact www.dci.ca and tell them what you are trying to do, and what
they could engineer a solution for the wideband duplexer part of this.
They probably can't do anything for the 2 close spaced pairs, and that
is where Telewave, dB Products, Sinclair, TXRX, etc will come in.

It should work out OK, but using two antennas would be simpler and
cheaper, but maybe that isn't an option.

Joe

--- John Barrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  net>
wrote:

> Finally found some good diagrams for a 3 cavity bandpass filter at
> Telewave,
> and it looks like I can get 80db down with 6db of insertion loss
> using 5"
> cavities, which may be acceptable as I can make it up at the antenna
> if
> needed. Then it seems I can get the last 10db (if not more) by
> kicking up to
> a 6" or 8" cavity to steepen the skirts.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.telewave 
.com/pdf/TWDS-5012.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> So bandpass CAN be made to work. the question then becomes: Is there
> a way
> to do it with less than a dozen cavities ??
> 
> 
> 
> Using notches seems to be counterproductive as I would need 2-3 notch
> cavities per radio per frequency to notch (call it 3 recievers vs 2
> transmitters, or 6x3 - 18 reject cavitites)
> 
> 
> 
> Do I really need the cavities on the repeater transmitter (which will
> never
> be used for receive). might not a Wilkinson splitter/combiner do the
> trick,
> bringing at least that one transmitter down 20db before hitting the
> cavities
> for the 3 recievers
> 
> 
> 
> Bring on the "other" ideas :-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _ 
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@ 
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Repeater-Builder@ 
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:50 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@ 
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] duplexer isolation and receiver noise
> budget
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> It might be instructive to let the big-name combiner companies make
> proposals to solve your dilemma. Send a request for proposals to
> Telewave,
> TX-RX, and RFS/Celwave to see what they would recommend. Don't try to
> design it for them; just give them the frequencies, power outputs,
> receive
> sensitivities, feedline type and length, and make/model antenna, and
> let
> them come up with their own plans. I think you will be surprised that
> more
> than one solution may do the job.
> 
> My gut feeling is that your 

[Repeater-Builder] Crystal Exchange

[dougd470]

I am looking for contact information on the guy that exchanges channel 
elements (for a modest fee). I have Motorola Micor elements that I want 
to exchange.
 
The particular one I am thinking of has been around for a lot of years 
and has a humongous inventory. Does this ring a bell?
 
Any info appreciated.
 
Thanks
Doug
North Bend, WA

[Repeater-Builder] Sinclair Duplexers

[Mick Lindley]

If you need VHF duplexers see this set of Sinclair Q2330E 6 cavity duplexers
on eBay.
Mick, KB4UPI

-- 
I pledge allegiance to the flag of the  United States of
America,  and to the republic for which it stands, one
nation,  UNDER GOD,   indivisible,   with  liberty  and
justice   for   all.
-
Never own anything you aren't willing to drill a hole in.
See our web site at http://LindleyOnline.com

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: duplexer isolation and reciever noise budget

[John Barrett]

I don't have a coordinated pair at this time, and someone on my local
repeater mentioned something about
uncoordinated/unprotected/test/"community" pairs in 144 and 440 bands.. so
if you know what they are, that's probably where this repeater will live
until I get coordinated (if I get coordinated - NE Texas is pretty packed
up).. So until I get more information, I guess I should be focusing on
isolating the 2 digital rigs.

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of skipp025
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 4:51 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: duplexer isolation and reciever noise budget

 

Before I give you an answer I'd want to know where the repeater 
is going to be placed. Operation in the 146 and higher portion of 
the band is going to be a heck of a lot easier than a repeater 
in the 145 segment. 

both aprs and winlink radios on the same antenna are going to require 
some serious and unique protection methods. 

To talk about the cavity size question/issue... you'll notice the 
cavity Q is much higher for "most" larger diameter cavities. So pretty 
much anything you are going to want to hunt down is going to be 
the larger high Q cavities on the order of 8 inch min typical. 

s. 

> "John B" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm attempting to design a system that will have a VHF repeater (freqs
> not yet determined) sharing an antenna with 2 packet radios (APRS on
> 144.39 and Winlink on 145.05, either of which may be active as a
> digipeater at any time).
> 
> I'm currently considering a bandpass-only "quadplexor" to isolate the
> radios from each other.. each radio running through a bandpass filter
> tuned to its frequency only (that includes the transmitter and
> receiver for the repeater), on the theory that it is a lot easier to
> pass one frequency than it is to reject 3 others.
> 
> Assuming that none of the transmitters run more than 50w, how many DB
> down do I need to be outside of the passband to minimize desense for
> any of the 3 receivers ??
> 
> Any other suggestions on how I might handle this hookup would be
> greatly appreciated. I'm nearing completion my trailer-mounted 40ft
> crank up tower, and I'm having some problems budgeting space for a
> filtering system with 12 bandpass cavities without cutting into
> general cargo space.
>

 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220mhz Repeater Amp.

[skipp025]

Re: 220mhz Repeater Amp.

Looks like some previous problems have come full circle?  

Anyway... I have a few of the TPL Brand Amplifiers in use and 
they like most others... walk and talk all day, every day. 

I've built the Hamtronics 35 watt repeater amp and it's been 
working just peachy since about 1987.

Group Member Gregory just ordered and received a mid range power 
TE Repeater Amplifier and it's well built. Even though their customer 
service hasn't been "spot on", their products seem to be pretty 
darn good over all. If you can get them to respond as one would hope 
I myself wouldn't have a problem trying to buy and use a 
straight-forward model of most TE Brand Amplifiers.  

Another thought is to simply use a mobile MFJ or RF Concepts type 
amplifier for the task.  A number of people simply blow constant 
air over them and/or bolt more metal to the heat sink (and use 
forced air).   If you want to use power selection you can leave 
the TR Relay in place.  Some people also bypass the rf relay to 
place their amplifiers in circuit all the time. 

As a funny sidebar... 
I've been to repeater sites where you can hear the TR relays 
clicking in and out based on RF sensed energy coming back down 
the line from the duplexer.  So more than a few people are using 
mobile amplifiers in the repeater operations. 

cheers, 
s. 

> "Adam C. Feuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello All,
> 
> Looking for any suggestions other than Henry Radio or TE Systems for 
> a 220mhz repeater amp.  Preferably 5 to 10 watts in with 100 or so out.
> 
> Thanks in advanced!
> 
> Adam N2ACF
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repacking an antenna into a commercial radome

[Paul Metzger]

Response;

I'm currently using a Diamond antenna up at my repeater site which I  
had packed into a commercial radome. I did have to narrow (grind  
away) the hub of the diamond antenna where the ground radials had  
previously mounted to. It is a must that you rebuild the ground  
radials on the outside aluminum sleeve of the radome. I initially  
tried without the ground radials, the match looked great, but the  
performance definitely. I shoved the entire Diamond antenna into the  
radome, so now the antenna effectively has two radomes. Now there's  
no dinky obvious wet noodle amateur radio antennas up at the  
commercial site, the antenna blends right in. You gotta love it.


Paul Metzger
K6EH



Yup, I've packed a Diamond antenna
On Oct 7, 2007, at 18:07, georgiaskywarn wrote:

Has anyone ever done this?  Unfortunately the radome I was playing  
with this weekend had no room to push the bottom of the Diamond  
x3200 past the sleeve at the bottom.  This is a Andrews 900mhz  
antenna (or the radome of).  SWR was pretty high within the new  
radome.  Put it back in the old one...swr was ok...but not great.   
Compromise antenna anyway ;-)  Curious if anyone has ran into this  
and what you did for the coupling sleeve...or if it was just the  
radome itself.  I have an older type of Stationmaster I could  
use...but man is it long compared to the x3200.


Thought about using the Canusa (http://www.repeater-builder.com/ 
tech-info/canusa.html) that Kevin spoke of before like a big  
"condom" on the thing.  Anyone tried that with success?

[Repeater-Builder] Modifying a 300-400 mHz Bandpass Cavity

[Jim Brown]

I obtained a pair of DB4018-2 cavities (300-400 mHz on the nameplate) at a 
hamfest and finally tore into them to see if I could make something worthwhile 
in the way of frequency coverage out of them.  Tests showed that they barely 
made it up to 400 mHz on the high end, so I disassembled them and found a 2 
inch brass washer brazed to the bottom end of the plunger.  (all parts were 
silver plated)
   
  I removed the washer with a Dremel tool and reassembled them and found that 
they both tuned just barely above 450 mHz after the mod.  I did not check the 
bottom end of the coverage but I am sure it would be somewhere below 400 mHz.
   
  It was not necessary to remove the top of the can, just the bottom, as the 
plunger screwed all the way to the bottom presents the washer for removal.
   
  I thought I would pass this along in case any more of these beasts are around.
   
  73 - Jim  W5ZIT

   
-
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, 
photos & more. 

[Repeater-Builder] Repacking an antenna into a commercial radome

[georgiaskywarn]

Has anyone ever done this?  Unfortunately the radome I was playing with
this weekend had no room to push the bottom of the Diamond x3200 past
the sleeve at the bottom.  This is a Andrews 900mhz antenna (or the
radome of).  SWR was pretty high within the new radome.  Put it back in
the old one...swr was ok...but not great.  Compromise antenna anyway ;-)
Curious if anyone has ran into this and what you did for the coupling
sleeve...or if it was just the radome itself.  I have an older type of
Stationmaster I could use...but man is it long compared to the x3200.

Thought about using the Canusa
(http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/canusa.html
 ) that Kevin
spoke of before like a big "condom" on the thing.  Anyone tried that
with success?

RE: [Repeater-Builder] 220MHz Repeater Amp.

[Eric Lemmon]

Adam,

Look into TPL amplifiers, at www.tpl.com

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam C. Feuer
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 3:29 PM
To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 220MHz Repeater Amp.

Hello All,

Looking for any suggestions other than Henry Radio or TE Systems for 
a 220MHz repeater amp. Preferably 5 to 10 watts in with 100 or so out.

Thanks in advance!

Adam N2ACF

Re: [Repeater-Builder] 220mhz Repeater Amp.

[Maire-Radios]

Volt-com  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Adam C. Feuer 
  To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 6:28 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 220mhz Repeater Amp.


  Hello All,

  Looking for any suggestions other than Henry Radio or TE Systems for 
  a 220mhz repeater amp. Preferably 5 to 10 watts in with 100 or so out.

  Thanks in advanced!

  Adam N2ACF



   

[Repeater-Builder] 220mhz Repeater Amp.

[Adam C. Feuer]

Hello All,

Looking for any suggestions other than Henry Radio or TE Systems for 
a 220mhz repeater amp.  Preferably 5 to 10 watts in with 100 or so out.

Thanks in advanced!

Adam N2ACF

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for a Squelch gate card...

[Steve Allred]

Hi Warren,
  Did you find your card?
   
  Steve / K6SCA

Warren - VE3ZIN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Looking for a squelch gate card for my Micor C73RTB. After looking on
ebay for some time, haven't been able to secure any except for one
company that wants a min. $200 order!?

de VE3ZIN ([EMAIL PROTECTED])



 

   
-
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