[Repeater-Builder] Re: SLOPER

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "JOHN MACKEY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> In my situation, I have a tower that is on the roof of a large 
building.  I
> want to put a 10 meter sloper on top of the building against the 
tower to
> favor the west.  I am wondering if anyone has ever used a 10 meter 
sloper.
> 
> Hi John.

I have used thet very same setup you want to build and it works well. 
It seems to have some directivity, (as it should) and a fairly low 
angle of radiation. The one I built worked every bit as well as the 
Shakespeare Super Big Stick that I was using on 29.100. If nothing 
else, its cheap and almost invisible with nearly zero wind load. 

My setup had no balun, just a coaxial choke of 5-6 turns about 8" 
diameter at the feed. That choke was not given any thought or 
engineering, I just thought it sounded like a good idea. Please, no e-
mails telling me that the choke would never work like that. ;-) I fed 
the thing with RG-8X and put about 450 watts into it with no trouble.

73 de Johnab6li

[Repeater-Builder] For Sale: Link Comm RLC Club Deluxe and DVR 1

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I have a Link Comm RLC Club Deluxe with factory rack mount enclosure 
and the matching Link Comm DVR 1 also in the rack mount enclosure. Both 
in proper working order. 

Asking $700 obo for the pair. Please e-mail with any questions.

73 to all.John

[Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Exciter Output Level??

[John Everson]

Hi Guys.

What is the power output of the UHF Micor (VHF really) exciter BEFORE 
the 1st bandpass filter? What about AFTER the 1st bandpass filter? I 
have the manuals, and I know what they say, but I am looking for some 
real world data. 

I have got to be doing something wrong or all of my spare parts have 
gone south on the shelf. I am not at my wits end but I can see that 
it isn't too far away. 

Here is our story.

We had this 75 watt UHF Micor repeater donated to us. The PA was bad. 
The fellow said "that's it, I ain't fixing this thing again".We 
thought we would fix it, tune it on a new channel, and donate it to a 
fellow that is in need of new hardware. The PA was bad, I discovered 
that all of my spares were junk, or near junk. Then, the tripler 
takes a dump, replaced that... 1.7 watts out of the tripler, now we 
are getting somewhere. I go and hookup the controller, intermittent 
COS... cracked backplane solder joint, fixed that. A day has passed, 
and now I have no output, again. I backtrack and find only 10-15 
milliwatts out of the exciter direct, less out of the 1st filter. I 
have tried two other exciters, on the original channel elements, one 
is dead, and the other has only 10 milliwatts out. How did Charlie 
Brown put it???  AGGGH

Am I missing something. Perhaps I have been messing with the GE stuff 
too long.

Thanks in advance.John

[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF Micor Exciter Output Level??

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "John Everson" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys.
> 
> What is the power output of the UHF Micor (VHF really) exciter 
BEFORE 
> the 1st bandpass filter? What about AFTER the 1st bandpass filter? 
I 
> have the manuals, and I know what they say, but I am looking for 
some 
> real world data. 
> 
> I have got to be doing something wrong or all of my spare parts 
have 
> gone south on the shelf. I am not at my wits end but I can see that 
> it isn't too far away. 
> 
> Here is our story.
> 
> We had this 75 watt UHF Micor repeater donated to us. The PA was 
bad. 
> The fellow said "that's it, I ain't fixing this thing again".We 
> thought we would fix it, tune it on a new channel, and donate it to 
a 
> fellow that is in need of new hardware. The PA was bad, I 
discovered 
> that all of my spares were junk, or near junk. Then, the tripler 
> takes a dump, replaced that... 1.7 watts out of the tripler, now we 
> are getting somewhere. I go and hookup the controller, intermittent 
> COS... cracked backplane solder joint, fixed that. A day has 
passed, 
> and now I have no output, again. I backtrack and find only 10-15 
> milliwatts out of the exciter direct, less out of the 1st filter. I 
> have tried two other exciters, on the original channel elements, 
one 
> is dead, and the other has only 10 milliwatts out. How did Charlie 
> Brown put it???  AGGGH
> 
> Am I missing something. Perhaps I have been messing with the GE 
stuff 
> too long.
> 
> Thanks in advance.John

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!

It was the lack of keyed A- that the exciter gets from the Time Out 
Timer! The conversion instructions I was using did not address that. 
I went to the schematic and rooted around a bit. Checked the powers 
and groundsall present except for the keyed A-.

Thanks for the response Lance. If you hadn't have motivated me to go 
back to the bench, I would have been on the couch watching ESPN 
talking about how lousy the Sacramento Kings are doing this year!

73 to all.   John
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF Micor Exciter Output Level??

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Assuming you have the controller hooked up properly,
> and the station modded properly, I'd assume that if you
> have one cracked joint you may have more.
> I'd redo EVERY receiver and exciter joint, starting with
> Keyed voltages (i.e. Keyed A-).
> Yes, it's going to be a very boring hour or two, but put
> some good music on the CD or MP3 player in the shop
> and get a large mug of your favorite beverage and start
> melting solder...
> Large 52 oz mug on my very messy bench:
> 
> I picked that up at a 7-11 about 5 years ago... and they
> now make a 64oz mug...
> 
> Been there, done that... had to resolder every pin in a
> Micor station backplane where that slot was occupied..
> the receiver, exciter, station control card, squelch gate
> card, and single-tone card (that slot was being used
> to hold a 4-tone Pl decoder card).  The station had a
> Scom 7K controlling it.
> 
> 
> Don't make any assumptions until you are sure that the test
> bed (i.e.the unified chassis) is solid. Until I did the resoldering
> that station was very intermittent. The station was sitting on a
> hardwood floor, and you could walk past that station and it
> would drop out, or have "rattling" audio, or work normally until
> I spent one saturday morning resoldering those slots...
> Read the checklist - 
> and the line "Locating and fixing the intermittent that only
> shows up at 4am on sundays during a full moon"... that
> station was the inspiration for that line...
> 
> Mike WA6ILQ

>
Hi Mike.

First of all, How did you get a picture of my bench Actually, my 
mug is smaller, but my bench also has the optional empty Triscut box.

I followed one of the sets of instructions from RBTIP. I thought that 
it would be easier to use the "no cards except the station control 
module mod" due to the fact that the docs were there, it was simple, 
and I was handing this off to another Ham who will have to maintain 
the thing. I was thinking K.I.S.S. The controller works as it should, 
things just went downhill when I realized that the output was gone. 
It was weak even for a dummy load.

With regard to the backplane. I am half done with the re-flow. I'll 
finish the rest later. I found one bad joint at the COS point, I am 
sure that the others aren't far behind. I am not going to drag this 
thing a hundred miles to hang it in the rack just to have it take a 
dump on the hill. Been there. Theres nothing like being on Donner 
Summit modding a GE MVP Squelch Board with a butane soldering iron in 
high winds.

Well, at least now with the temporary mock-up, I have about 2 watts 
out of the tripler. Things are looking up.

Time for bed. Work comes early.  Thanks for the response.

73 de John

[Repeater-Builder] Spectrum SCR 77 220 Repeater

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Does anyone have any documentation or information on the Spectrum SCR 
77 220 Mhz repeater? I am trying to repair one of these animals that 
has no Rx audio. It would appear that there is no discrimiator audio 
out either so I believe that the problem is in the Rx board not just 
the audio amp area.

I know what you folks are thinking.. I just enjoy a challenge.

Thanks in advance.John ab6li

[Repeater-Builder] Syntor X 9000 Low Band 6m-10m Rpt?

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Can anyone tell me if the Syntor X 9000 will actually cover 6 and 10 
meters at the same time (not duplexing) without serious degradation 
on tx or rx performance? Also, someone is trying to tell me that 
these radios have an automatic antenna tuning unit in them??? Our 
leader has programmed several and they do seem to work, allthough, I 
haven't put one on the service monitor to see what the real 
performance is like. 

Additionally, has anyone ever used a pair of these to make a repeater?

Our ARES group just recieved a bunch of these (most without control 
cables) and our zealous leader thinks we need to move to Low Band.

I am just looking for some facts before I shoot my mouth off. I am 
trying to convince the ARES group that we need to stick to our VHF 
and UHF interests and not complicate things further with low band. A 
friend and I have 6 meter box that works extremely well but I still 
think we should focus on shorter wavelengths. ;-)

Feel free to reply off list if you wish.

Thanks in advance. John Eversonab6li







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Syntor X 9000 Low Band 6m-10m Rpt?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike WA6ILQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> The mental image of Boris and Natasha's "Fearless Leader" came
> to mind (am I dating myself?   check out "Rocky and Bullwinkle
> on late-night cable)

Well Mike, your not that old. Rocky and Bullwinkle is one of my 
faves. 
> 
>> 
> Not enough heat sink.  Get a Micor base.  
> 
I am totally aware of the heat sink issue. Our 52.60 repeater is a 
full blown Micor station. The repeater thing was their idea, not mine!


> >Our ARES group just recieved a bunch of these (most
> >without control cables)
> 
> They're going to be hard to come up with.

No doubt. The cables appear to be just as valuable as the radios!
> 
 
> Either way, if you need in-building penetration you'll be sorry.

This is my point exactly. I have tried to tell them this before. Not 
to mention the serious performance degradation when handheld due to 
the lack of antenna, even when out in the open.
> 
> >I am just looking for some facts before I shoot my mouth
> >off. I am trying to convince the ARES group that we need
> >to stick to our VHF and UHF interests and not complicate
> >things further with low band.
> 
> If the VHF/UHF works, why dilute the available technical
> resources across another band?

You must be reading my mind. This is what I have tried to stress, but 
to little avail.
> 
> >A friend and I have 6 meter box that works extremely
> >well but I still think we should focus on shorter
> >wavelengths. ;-)
> 
> There's a reason the L.A. County Sheriff went from 39mhz
> to UHF.  It's called in-building penetration.
> 
> There's a reason the CHP is staying on low band and
> even snapped up the Sheriff's channels and converted their
> 43mhz dispatch channels into full repeat.  They need the
> wide-open-spaces long range coverage that 330w base
> stations and 100w low band mobiles have (especially with
> high band mobile extenders that let the officers use a HT
> on 154.905 to talk through their cars back to the dispatchers
> while out on a traffic stop, out to lunch or to a bathroom break)
> 
> If fearless leader is still convinced that 6m is a good idea,
> and you have a 6m repeater, you could put a receiver (or
> even a full transciever) on the current channel and let
> fearless leader use a low band mobile to convince himself
> that they need to keep the VHF / UHF system.  Done properly
> a low band system can be an adjunct to a VHF/UHF system.

Already covered. A planned 6 mtr remote on the My UHF system will 
allow complete connection to three 2 meter, 2 220, and 2 UHF machines 
(all local) from the existing 6 mtr repeater. 
> 
> If the add-a low-band port idea works out, I'd think about
> grabbing a 6m Micor base off of eBay - maybe contact
> the seller of that last one and ask him to contact you if
> he comes across any more.
> 
 Got one, a spare for the repeater. I am just trying to prevent a ton 
of wasted effort and further alienation of the ARES group. It is 
tough enough to get everyone an the same page without introducing 
more options.

Thanks for answering my questions Mike. We think alike. Now I must go 
and read more fanmail from some flounder.

73 de John 








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Icom rp4020

[John Everson]

If you are looking for the discrimniator audio and you dont have the 
schematic here is something that you can try for a quick and dirty 
solution. Find your reciever module. Locate the feedthrough caps on 
the side of the Rx module. Take your scope or a high impedance 
voltmeter on the AC scale and set a 5 volt scale. Leave the Rx 
SQUELCHED and check for an AC voltage on each of the Rx feedthroughs. 
When you find a voltage around 1-3 volts or so, put a full quieting 
signal into the reciever and see if the voltage goes away, (as it 
should, you are measuring audio level). To confirm that you have the 
right spot, add a dtmf note or even a whistle to your injected signal 
and see if your voltage reading changes with the level of the audio 
you are injecting. If so, you have found you discriminator audio. 

Remember, the disc. audio is there even when the Rx is squelched.

I hope this helps. I am sure that others have a better way. This is 
how I did it when I had no real test equipment or documentation.

73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: ap4800 by John Bell

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Morgan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a repeater controller "Model AP4800 Repeater Controller" by 
> John Bell seems to be a 1994 or 1995 vintage.  
> 
> I have part of the manual but several pages are missing and I have 
> searched all over the internet and have been unsucessful of finding 
> a copy of the manual.  
> 
> I also searched previous messages here and can find no posts 
> concerning ap4800.
> 
> Would anyone have a copy or know where I can get a copy of the 
> manual for this controller.  
> 
> Thank you.

Funny you should ask. I just found my copy (complete, I think) of the 
manual for my old 4800 today. I may be able to have my friend scan 
them and e-mail them to you if that will work for you. If not, I can 
make some copies and snail mail them to you. 

Let me know off list and we can work it out.
73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: radial tire static?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "na6df" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Not repeater related so much, but I thought the great minds here 
> might know...
> 
> One of my corporate bosses, a ham, is having his bridgestone tires 
> generate static while they are rolling, interfering with AM radio 
> reception. I know somebody used to sell a powder to put in the 
tires 
> that dissapated the static, but can't find any info on it now. It 
> has to do with some problem with "low rolling resistance" tires 
that 
> have low carbon content..
> 
> Any ideas? thanks!
> 
> dave

Hi Dave.

You may find that the noise is actually caused by the brake pads 
dragging on the brake rotors. In most cases where this is a problem I 
have found that the broadcast radio antenna has a poor ground at the 
fender mount. This problem seems to be most prevalent in the Ford F 
series trucks. Have your boss see if the interference changes while 
stepping on the brake pedal lightly. Also make sure that the locking 
nut on the antenna is tight. 

Then again, what do I know?

73 de John   P.S. Hows the 103.3 coming.More Power!!!







 
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[Repeater-Builder] GE Mastr II UHF Hi Pwr Tube PA F/S or Trade

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I have a GE Mastr II tube final for UHF. It is in the cabinet, with 
the P.S. I need to get this thing out of the garage. It MUST be pick 
up only near Sacramento CA. If anyone is interested, drop me a note 
off list and we can talk about it. It is untested, but was working 
when removed from service 9-10 years ago. Going Chap!

Thanks,John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cabinet Suggestions

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> 
>   73, (NOT 73's) 
> 
>   Neil McKie - WA6KLA 

You mean that you don't want to give us your best regards's?

;-)   John










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Station master antennas

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Q <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> NW PA and have used them all.For full duplex,best results were with 
> folded dipole antennas.Stationmasters on VHF were always a 
problem.Ice? 
> Yeah,we get a lot on lake Erie's south shore but both types hold up 
well 
> as long as the tower doesnt collapse! 500 feet of Rohn 65G with 27 
mixed 
> sticks and dipoles,5 Db-230's,an 8' dish with radome and an 800 meg 
> Bogner on top.The Rohn engineers nearly fainted when they saw it! 
Been 
> that way for 20 years though...
> 
  Speaking of overloaded towers. I took a trip up to one of the sites 
that we inhabit and I see that the AT&T tower maintenence crews 
(contract labor in this area) have come and retrofitted the heavily 
laden 90 foot Rohn 25 diagonal crossbars with what appears to be 
something like the gripping end of a diamond grip dead end. After 
this is installed on the diagonals,it is coated with an epoxy resin.

Must be a strength retrofit. Has anyone else seen this?

73 to all.   John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] O.T. Is it just me?

[John Everson]

Happy New Year to the group.

Is it just me, or is someone else having the Yahoo adverts. block 
part of the message text on some messages? I think that this has 
happened before but it went away on its own.

At least that is as much as my feeble mind lets me remember.

73,John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: New repeater buildup

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "hooker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> Hello group,
> 
> I have the opportunity to put up a UHF ham repeater in a fantastic 
spot.
> However, I have some pretty stiff requirements.  It will be co-
located with
> an existing Govt. repeater, which is solar powered. I do not have 
to supply
> the battery or PV panel, I will use whats there.  I have already 
hiked up
> and installed the DB408 + LDF4-50 / Polyphaser.  Lets see what the 
group can
> come up with...
> 
>  
> 
> 1.  Needs to be as light as possible, since I have to hike it up to 
the top
> of an 8K feet peak. (5 hour round trip).
> 
> 2.  Must be efficient, no heaters on crystals, etc.
> 
> 3.  Must be able to operate over wide temperature ranges, no 
heating or
> cooling in the box.
> 
> 4.  Will be solar powered.
> 
> 5.  I am thinking a maximum of 10 watts.
> 
> 6.  It needs to be robust, with resistance to lightning strikes.
> 
> 7.  I picked out a controller, the NHRC 4, seems pretty nice.  I 
want it to
> be able to turn ON / OFF the main TX in case there is trouble.
> 
> 8.  I need TX board, RX board, and an RX control RX (420 region).
> 
> 9.  I already have the duplexer, a mobile type Celwave product.
> 
>  
> 
> I was thinking along these lines:  Obtain the RX and TX boards from 
a MOT
> MSR2000 repeater, repackage them in lightweight BUD boxes.  Install 
the
> controller in another box.
> 
>  
> 
> I know the group has better ideas, and I would love to hear them!  
Let them
> flow!
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> 
> Tracy

Were I you, I would do the GE MVP with the NHRC drop-in controller 
and perhaps Hamtronics or Maggiore for the control RX. Even a cheap 
HT or scanner would suffice for a control RX and you would be able to 
take advantage of the power save circuitry in most HT's. My MVP's on 
UHF and VHF draw about 130 ma during RX (just the radio, no 
controller) and the TX current draw would vary with output, but could 
be less than 3-4 amps with about 5-10 watts. I have heard of people 
using modern style power save circuits to decrease power consumption 
by 50% or more during RX idle time. 

You will spend too much time trying to re-invent the wheel by horsing 
with the modules and separate enclosures as well as the cables, 
feedthroughs, RF connectors etc. Not to mention the extra expense. 
The MVP is a known quantity, a known performer, in any environment. 
This will be important with the notch only style duplexer. Plus, the 
duplexing, tuning, and rack-mounting of the MVP can be done between 
breakfast and lunch. That leaves the rest of the day for 
installation. ;-)

Just my two cents.

John   ab6li







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2330E Tuning Problems

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Per Molund <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> Eric,
> 
> thank You for very accurate information, this is what I suspected. 
My
> harness is 323mm (~12.72 inches) between adjacent connectors so
> this is clearly a high-split duplexer. Do You (or anyone else) know
> where I could obtain a proper harness (Sinclar Canada/USA direct or
> a distributor)?
> 
> 73, Per Molund LA9XKA
> 
> Hello there.

If you have the access to some elbows just put them in line with the 
harness cable and see if the added length helps. This has worked for 
me in the past and the added loss is neglegible.

Best of luck.73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2330E Tuning Problems

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> John,
> 
> That's not possible, because the standard Sinclair harnesses are
> fabricated with crimped connections at every junction.
> 
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> 
> Hi Eric.

That occured to me just a few minutes ago when I moved a sinclair 
duplexer from one rack to another for storage. 

Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time.

73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] F.S. List

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.
I have been cleaning out the garage. Here is a list of stuff that 
needs to go.

I have the following manuals:
1. 1 Mastr Progress Line UHF Manual includes LBI 4000, LBI 3999, LBI 
3529G, 3853C, These are for the TX, RX, Repeater Panel, and the power 
supply.

2. 1 Mastr Prog. Line Royal Executive UHF Mobile Manual LBI 3910B

3. 2 Mastr Prog. Line Professional Series 25-50 Mhz Mobile LBI 3627. 
This includes other LBI's within the manual  (the cover is a bit 
ratty on one manual)

4. 1 Mastr Prog. Line Executive Series Manual 132-174 Mhz Mobile LBI 
3712C

5. 1 Mastr Prog Line UHF Manual LBI 3617B and LBI 3622 Covers the TX, 
RX and PA. These are a bit ratty but fully useable.

6. 1 GE Marc V 806-870 Manual LBI 30839A Complete.

7. 1 RCA Series 700 VHF 150 Mhz Band Manual Appears to be complete. 
Cover is missing and outer pages are worn but in very useable shape.

8. 1 RCA Series 500 UHF 450 Mhz Repeater Manual Complete Cover and 
front/rear pages a bit gritty but fully useable.

9. 1 RCA ML 1000 TX RX Unit Manual with interconnect diagram. A bit 
worn, fully useable.

10. 1 RCA Series 1000 50 Mhz Manual with Series 500 Super Carfone 
50Mhz Manual included.

11. 1 RCA Series 500 Super Carfone VHF 150-174. Separate manuals in 
RCA folder. Worn but fully useable.

12. 1 Motorola Motrac 25-54 Megacycle This manual is near new, 
printed in 1964. This make me want to go watch Dragnet reruns.

13. 1 Motorola Mocom 35 UHF 10 watt. Reprint from 1983.

14. 1 Motorola Consolette Base Station UHF Manual

15. I have a binder with what appears to be the guts of a 
Motrac/Motran manual for VHF. appears to be complete, I am not going 
to take the time to collate the thing.

Other stuff:

  220 Mhz notch cavities. 3" square, single N conn. on each, 2 pairs 
of 2. Silver plated.

 RF Gain RF 445U Repeater amp, 4 in 45 out 1 device driving a 
second. --- It's Dead, I was going to fix it, no time. It worked when 
I bought it. 

 Clean UHF 450-470 75 watt Mitrek Mobiles. No accs.

 Clean GE Mastr II VHF 40 watt drawer units. No accs.

 A Uniden (made by Milcom) 100 watt 220 Mhz Linear Amp. Made to run 
on 28 volts. It uses Polyfets for RF devices. It has these really 
cool power combiner/splitters inside that I was going to use to make 
a 4x1 SAV 15 RF Module Repeater amp for 220 . I was going to gut the 
RF Gain UHF amp to put it on ;-). No time.

Enough bandwith for now. Make a reasonable offer on any or all. 
Please contact me off list.

Thanks to all. John   AB6LI

 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Products DB-224 Antenna & Noise

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> It's kind of like which is better - a Ford or a Chevy (I don't like 
either). 
> Point being, what you've had good luck with you'll stick with and 
swear by.
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't install a fiberglass collinear antenna for a 
repeater 
> if it was free. Yet there are others who would likely say the same 
thing of 
> the folded dipole arrays (my favorite). I do use a Comet dual band 
> fiberglass antenna at home, but it is installed safely inside my 
attic.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
I gotta go with Chuck on this one. Make mine a Dipole Array. 

My two cents. 73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: F.S. List

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> 
> John, 
> 
> Yahoo chops Email domains off the post. 
> 
> Please Email your full address to me. 
> 
> thank you 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
> skipp025 at yahoo.com  
> 
> >  "John Everson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Enough bandwith for now. Make a reasonable offer on any or all. 
> > Please contact me off list.
> > 
> > Thanks to all. John   AB6LI

Hi Skipp. The addy here is  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Drop me a line.73 de John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek VHF wide band noise on TX

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "maxjam_99" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a vhf mitrek that has been split for repeater operation.  It
> has work flawlessly until now.  When the TX is unkeyed the 
transmitter
> will stay keyed for approx 10 seconds.  During this time it 
generates
> a wide signal +-1Mhz centered on the TX frequency with full power 
out.
>  Once 10 seconds or so it will unkey and cease tx'ing.  If you key 
the
> TX during the time it is generating this wide signal then it will 
TX a
> proper clean signal, unkey and start over. 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks...

One quick and interesting thing to do in this case Sean is to put a 
good VSWR bridge on the output of the amp (not the duplexer) and 
watch the VSWR when the amp acts up. If you are feeding a tuned 
antenna or duplexer port with the output of the amp, and your amp is 
throwing out many spurs, the VSWR will go way out of whack when the 
spurs fly. They can be on darn near any frequency other than the one 
you intend to be on, causing a bunch of reflected power. 

This is just a quick way to see just how bad things are if you don't 
have all of your gear with you. 

Read the reply from Eric. It is right on the money. I have been where 
you are. I don't want to go there again!

Best of luck.   John
> 
> Sean / NØPBA







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Off Topic: Looking for a job?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> As many of you know, I've been looking for permanent
> employment for a while (10+ years in computer
> networks integration / administration / support).
> 
> I received this in email from a friend and I don't
> think I'll be applying...
> 
> The $35 per day per diem raises the salary to over
> $4300/mo or $52,000/yr...
> 
> If I was single and in my twenties... it'd be tempting...
> No taxes makes the resident equivalent to over $62k per
> year (assuming 20% taxes, most folks pay more).
> 
>  >Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 05:39:36 -0800
>  >
>  >  Looking for a new job?
>  >
Seeing this gives me a reason to think. I have been in the auto 
repair field for 25 years. A friend called the other day to inform me 
that there were openings for auto/truck technicians with ASE Master 
Tech  Certification that was current. The prerequisites was the usual 
plus additional experience with labor management. The STARTING pay, 
Ready for this? $180,000 a year capping out at $250,000 D.O.E.

Man, it's tempting. Perhaps after the election?

John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 Amp

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Rick & Charlotte" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am running one of these amps right now
> 
> with around 100mw drive I am getting around 55 watts at 224.420
> 
> stable output with no spurs
> 
> I did not need to do a lot of mods at this point I use the 
controller to 
> run the PTT on the amp as there is no RF switch to do this funtion 
> on the amp itself .. I have ordered a rack for this amp and willsee 
> what in it to this job .. I will post more info as I move forward 
in this 
> project
> 
> Rick
> 
>
Right On Rick, 

It's good to hear that you have the amp up and running. Nice that you 
were able to do what I was never able to get around to. 55 watts with 
100 Mw drive Awesome.

73 de John AB6LI







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 12 dB sinad value...

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> Yes.  I can never remember how to do it.   Function  
something,  oh 
> well, you'll get it.
> 
> Kevin

That's why I sold the 8920a. I wanted to work on radios, not fly the 
Space Shuttle! ;-)   I'll stick with the 1500s. 

Regards to all.   John 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Link Comm RLC-6

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> I now do the same thing with the Cat Auto 
> RLS-1000. I consider the SCom 7K with a Vyex DAB 
> and the RLS-1000 to be "the dope". in repeater 
> controllers. 
> 
> that is all... 
> 
> cheers,
> skipp

Hi Skipp.
Would you care to comment on the audio quality and frequency response 
of the RLS-1000? I have considered a pair of these for a project I 
have going here in town using an RLC-1. I could run the two ports on 
the RLC-1 as separate repeaters (2 Mtrs and 220), and still have the 
separate link and remote base ports using the 2 RLS-1's. 

What say you?

Also, was this controller problem happening when we were there? Or 
did it happen after? I swear I didn't touch anything. ;-)

Later.John ab6li







 
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[Repeater-Builder] For Sale: Cushman CE-6 and CE-6a Service Monitors- Need Repairs

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I have two Cushman Service Monitors that are sick and have to go. For 
starters I have a CE-6a that has a lock problem and will only lock 
between 460 and 470 Mhz. This unit has the Model 316 VHF 140-175 Mhz 
high sensitivity preselctor. The second unit is a CE-6 with what 
appears to be a high voltage power supply problem. This unit has the 
Model 303 Broadband mixer. The CE-6a served me well for years, but is 
just taking up space now along with its forlorn brother and both need 
to go. I also have a set of service manuals for the CE-6 as well as 
some of the plug-in manuals too.

These things most likely still have some life in them if someone had 
the moxie to fix them. Perhaps one from two?

Pickup would be mandatory, but I would be willing to drive an hour or 
so if someone was serious. I am near Sacramento CA.

I will accept any reasonable offer. Please reply off-list.

Thanks,   John  







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: color tv antennas

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Huber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Come on Guys!
> 
> I just want to know how to get HDTV on my repeater.  :-)
> 
> Chris N6ICW
> 
>
Don't get too excited Chris. I have HDTV on my repeater and it really 
messes with the 11 meter remote base...

John







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need suggestions for 460 repeater antenna

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Dakota Summerhawk" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have had several problems with my repeater as of late and tracked 
down
> the culprit, the antenna. Can someone recommend a good 460 MHz high 
gain
> antenna? I am open to offers as well as buying new.
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Dakota Summerhawk
>
I agree with Chuck. For the money, the DB-408 is the way to go. Tough, 
easily handled by most towers and brackets, and a great performer for 
duplex operation with its wide bandwidth. If you go with the 408, be 
sure to use Scotchkote on ALL of the molded cable junctions. Three 
carefully applied coats should give you many years of service. When I 
say carefully applied I mean just try not to get any in your hair or 
clothes! It gets everywhere!

73 de John








 
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[Repeater-Builder] 220 Notch Cavities for Sale

[John Everson]

Hello to the group. 

I am cleaning things out here and I have 2 pair of 220 notch cavities 
for sale. They are 3 1/4" square and 12" long, "N" conns. and silver 
plated. I also have some mini-hardline cables that came with them if 
someone wanted to build a notch duplexer with them. 

Asking $75 a pair or $140 for all with the cables, plus shipping.

E-mail for more info.

Thanks.   John








 
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[Repeater-Builder] UHF MIcor P.A. Woes.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

My friend and I have a 75 Micor station on UHF that I was trying to 
resurrect to donate to a young local ham that has a UHF machine that 
needs to be replaced. The station in question was already in the ham 
bands, 444.xxx tx, 449.xxx rx. The previous owner had trouble with the 
PA dying all of the time, so he said, "get rid of it, I've had it with 
this thing". 

Well, I began to check this thing out and confirmed that the output was 
non-existent. I threw another PA in and still no output. So, I checked 
and tuned the circulator, checked and replaced the tripler/LLA, and now 
I have a clean and healthy 2 watts out of the LLA to the PA. The 
problem is, out of 5 different spares I have here, I get nothing, no 
go, no outty putty. I have checked the power control logic wire and the 
voltage seems to swing as it should during adjustment of the pot and 
changes during tx. Voltage to the main PA feed is a solid 14.3 volts on 
tx.

My question is: How much power will the Micor PA take for input if I 
want to bench test these things? Can I just ground the PA control wire 
during testing? What is the reccomended bench test arrangement.

I am having a bit of trouble believing that out of 5 spares, all are 
bad. I know that one was soft, one other was intermittent, but I 
thought that I had three solid spares.

Maybe Not! Maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in and made the brain get 
going yet.

Thanks in advance.John















 
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[Repeater-Builder] Micor PA woes---The Results!

[John Everson]

Thanks to all that replied.

After mocking up the amps for test with no circulator, separate 2 
watt exciter @ 444.400, and the control line to 12 volts, I 
discovered that I have one amp that puts out 60 watts full bore, 
(starts at 78 and drops to 60), one that puts out 120 plus, (this 
unit has been repaired and the devices may or may not be non-OE), 
another that puts out about 120 watts but is burning the balancing 
resistor between the last two rf devices, and two that do absoulutely 
nothing. During my bench test I only keyed the amps for 3-4 seconds.  
I went back and looked over my original setup and discovered that one 
of the dummy loads that I used on the RLB is junk, if you tighten the 
connector, the thing goes open. The return loss bridge can't give 
good info without a proper load on the UUT. So the Dummy is 
in the circular file ready for a trip to the landfill on Tuesday. 

Once I retuned the circulator, the good amps run in the repeater 
chassis as one would expect them to. 

I also noticed that one of the high output amps seems to have an 
issue when feeding the circulator. The output through the circ. (loss 
thru the circ is about 1.2 db) starts at 60 watts and then jumps to 
75 or so and the spectrum analyzer light up like a christmas tree. 
Turn the power control all the way up, it's OK, turn it down some, 
it's OK. I touched up the circ in the chassis and no change. 

Not really ready to take that one to the hill!

Any comments on the funky amps would be appreciated.

What have I learned? Don't always have faith in your test equipment. 
If it seems to strange, check your stuff, it may be lying to you!

I will put this thing back together and set up the PA and re-check 
things and post the results if I find anything unusual.

Thanks to all.John

P.S. My main repeater is a Micor Station. Since I never have to fool 
with it, I have forgotten nearly all that I have learned about these 
things. I'm a GE guy at heart.  ; - )







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Another Voting Equipment Question.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I am building a 3 channel voting system for a local repeater group 
and I was wondering what the rest of the world is using as a 
interface for the voting reciever/transmitter package. How are you 
configuring your pl? I have built up some MVPs and that part was a 
slam dunk. I have purchased an ICS Basic that I have installed in one 
of the MVPs but I am not getting the results I was hoping for. It 
does not seem to pass the pl as I thought it would. I have the de-
emphasis cap pulled, and I am feeding the CG Hi line on the exciter,  
(don't have a cow, I am going to use a limiter before I install the 
package) ;-) but the audio seems to sound a bit funny, and it doesn't 
want to pass the pl properly as it is intermittent at best. I know 
that many use nothing more than an audio interface with a cos to ptt 
linkup but I wanted some control over these things as well as an 
ID'er if they are going to be 75 miles away so I opted for a 
controller.

So, the question is, what are you folks using? What say ye?

Thanks in advance.

Johnab6li







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Another Voting Equipment Question.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Hi John,
> 
> I doubt that the problem lies in the controller, but rather your 
> 'modulator' isn't flat.  If you scope the audio path, you should be 
able 
> to make sure that you don't have excessive roll-off or distortion 
in the 
> audio chain.
> 
> My suggestion is to change the exciter to provide True FM.  This 
can be 
> done by adapting a Mastr II PLL ICOM and installing it into the MVP.
> The AP-50 is a nice solution to feeding discriminator audio to the 
FM ICOM.
> 
> While this article isn't written around the MVP, it can be 
generically 
> followed to do what I have explained:
> 
> 
> If I were doing this, I would feed Vol/Sq high to the AP-50 *and* 
the 
> controller, using a simple resistive splitter.  Have the controller 
> there to do all of your necessary functions for control, but not 
run the 
> audio through the controller to be repeated.  I would modify the 
> controller so it couldn't pass audio, by removing the gate 
transistor.  
> This will allow you to feed audio to the controller for processing 
of 
> tone commands.  The AP-50 would take Vol/Sq high and feed it 
directly to 
> the FM ICOM.  Set the AP-50 so it doesn't de-emphasize, or pre-
emphasize 
> the audio.  Take the audio output of the controller and feed it to 
the 
> CTCSS port of the AP-50 so the responses of the controller can be 
> heard.  This will insure that the audio is not muted and the least 
> amount of *stuff* exists in the audio path, but still having the 
> necessities.
> 
> Kevin
> 
Hello Kevin.

Well, you answered my question. I think that is the way to go. What 
do you suggest for a configuration for the resistive splitter? I have 
done that in the past with a couple of 10k resistors but that was 
just luck that it worked. I am not sure how to do it the right way.

I will be in touch on the AP-50. Now off to find some PLL channel 
elements!

Thanks again.John

























 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Diamond X-500 for repeater use?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Derek B. McIntyre"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I normally do not use "ham" antennas, especially cheap dual banders 
> such as Diamond or Comet for duplex/repeater use but a situation has 
> come up where a dual band antenna may be most convenient.
> 
>
Good morning to all. 
Here is my .02 I have had several X-500's in use at heavily congested
sites without I/M problems. However, they WILL burn up if you crank
200 watts (100 Vhf and 100 Uhf at the same time) into them for any
length of time. They WILL draw moisture without extra sealing
precautions, and, if used at a site with a large HAAT, the low angle
of radiation becomes really obvious for the users close in and under
the antenna. The radiation pattern is FULL of holes. It has been my
experience that a user 2.5 miles away, LOS, 600 feet below the
antenna, has far less signal strength than other many miles away, LOS.

My chioce regarding the Ham antennas for duplex use has to be the
Diamond X-50. They just take a licking and keep on ticking. Not the
super high capture area and gain we want, but the darn things just
wont die!

I'm finished now. YMMV.

73 and Best Wishes to all.   John  ab6li 




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery terminal corrosion

[John Everson]

Instead of baking soda, just dip/wipe the connections with Coke or
Pepsi. It rinses clean with water and works great. Try it!

Johnab6li







--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Tim Shephard"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the
battery
> terminals.
> 
> What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
> keep this from happening again?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Tim




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: icom repeaters

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "jedbartonradio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Hey gang.
> The local club is looking at the new Icom icfr4000 repeater.  Anyone 
> ever used this machine?
> It looks really slick.  They say it does 50 watts continuous duty.  
> Is this really true?
> I'm looking for some input especially with the durability factor in 
> mind.
> I'm also curious about the audio.
> They have the rp4020 right now.
> Will these machines work well in the ham bands?
> Any info would be appreciated.
> 
> Kindest Regards,
> Jed

Hello Jed.

As no one else has said it yet, I will. For the cost of the new Icom
unit alone your club could put together a top shelf UHF repeater
including duplexer and controller as well as antenna and feedline. (If
one shops wisely). Units such as the MII, Master Exec II or MVP, not
to mention the Mitrek are available for next to nothing. These radios
when duplexed will perform as well as or better than most of the
commercial offerings available today. The education you recieve during
the duplexing/tuning process will come in handy later when maintenence
time comes around. 

With regard to the RP 4020, I have some experience with two different
units and I find myself less than impressed. Especially after looking
at the original sales invoice!

I am sure that others have their own opinions.

73 de John 




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Backup Repeater System

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "nfd440" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> We have a MTR 2000 Primary Repeater at one location. and we are 
> looking to put in a second backup repeater at another location. How 
> can we connect the two repeaters so if the primary one fails the 
> back-up one will automaticly go on.
> 
> John

  I agree with Mike. The simplest and most effective way to do this is
just have the second repeater on a different pl tone. That way it is
always ready, and easy to check its operational status at any time
just by selecting the right tone. 

  Remember, simple is most often the best. 73 de  John






 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual Band Antenna's?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm sure this has been discussed before but what are your thoughts 
> about a good quality base station dual band (2/440) antenna's? I 
> know I can get the Diamond / Comet but was woundering if there's 
> anything out there in the commercial world.
> 
> Thanks..

Hello there.

If you are looking for a decent dual band base/repeater antenna that
can handle modest power, and presents a low wind/ice load, it is hard
to beat the Diamond X-50. Modest gain (to avoid heating up the horizon
or sky), it is inexpensive, and un-obtrusive. I have used these for
repeaters and remote bases on modest mountain tops here in Ca. with
good results. As a matter of fact, I have a Diamond tri-band antenna
for a remote base at 3100 feet that has been up for 8 Gold Country
winters now and it is still in one piece with low VSWR. 

FWIW.   Johnab6li




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Icom D-Star already up.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>  I've got some larger projects in 
> process that have it on the side burner. 
> 
> 
Hi Skipp. At least your ahead of most of us. All of my projects are 
on the back burner. I would feel good just to push mine to the side, 
rather than the back. :- )

Bt the way, if you still want those 3B28's that I had at the River 
City Swap, I will give them to you.

John   ab6li





 
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[Repeater-Builder] RX Attenuators. Good Source?

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Has anyone found a good source for some inline attenuators like 3 to 9
db? I see the BNC type floating around at hamfests occasionally but I
was wondering if there was a place that had some surplus or at least a
place that wasn't charging an arm and a leg. I would like to tame a
few preamps here and there. 

Thanks in advance.

John   ab6li





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: RX Attenuators.Good Source?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Al Wolfe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  John,
> Why not just use a piece of coax the right length to give you the
> attenuation you want? Charts of lost verses frequency abound and are
quite
> predictable. 

Hi Al.
We actually have done this very same thing on a local 220 Mhz
repeater. The repeater's SAV 15 PA runs much cleaner maxed out so we
run it full blast and cut it down doing just as you suggested before
feeding the outboard PA. I think that we ended up with 70 some feet of
RG-58 in an aluminum box with connectors on it. Work great. My problem
is space. I have to have three attenuators in one rack so space is at
a premium. I can take the small BNC type and shave off the excess gain
right at the pre-amp. With all of the responses I may have found just
what I am looking for.  

It would be neat to find some high quality pre-amps that made only
6-10 db of gain just to make up for small losses. Most are anywhere
from 10-20 or so. Too much when you just want enough to make up for
the Rx splitter and some cable loss.

Thanks to all that replied to my original post.

John   ab6li

 





 
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[Repeater-Builder] A good source for GE tuning tools?

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Does anyone know of a good source for the correct size (just what is
that size?) tuning tools for the GE exciters? Mine have about had it
and they are just a collection of misc. diddle sticks that didn't fit
that well to begin with. I have a couple of exciters that have some
stubborn slugs and my patience is running thin.

Thanks in advance.

John   ab6li





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mountain top upside down antenna mounting info

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I had excellent results with a Hustler G6-440 (uhf) station antenna
side 
> mounted and upside down on Mt. Davis (the highest point in
Pennsylvania).
> Shadowing of the tower was no different than when it was mounted 
> upright, just better coverage down in the valleys.
> 
> Kevin Custer
> 443.725+ Mt. Davis PA.

In the past I have wondered if anyone has ever tried to do this with
one antenna mounted upside down and another mounted right side up, one
directly above the other, and fed in phase? Interesting, No?

Comments appreciated.

John   ab6li





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Looking for UHF MVP's. Good Source?

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I am looking for a source for some UHF 88 split MVP radios. I don't 
need anything high power or multi channel, as a matter of fact, they 
don't even have to have a good PA. I would like to find 3 or 4 at a 
decent price. It seems as if a year or two ago, we were swimming in 
these things. Now, nothing.

Contact me off list at  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Thanks.John





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: bpf ciculator

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> okay I read what you directed me to, but it does not say or talk 
about the
> base/repeater bpf/circulator with the six capacitors. what I am 
asking is
> can I tune those six caps with just the rf from my handy talky into 
it into
> a watt meter and dummy load on the bench. or does the unit need to 
be
> powered which means I would have to put back in the station and the 
power
> control board would cover the holes I drilled for the tuning.

Hi David. 
You can use your HT as a signal generator if that is all you have but 
I would recommend a touch-up once the filter is installed, using the 
RF from the exciter/PA. The wires are for the power control circuitry 
that drives and protects the PA at the same time (in the case of high 
SWR). If you follow the directions described on the RBTIP page you 
should be able to get the filter where it needs to be.  If you are 
not using a service monitor with a return loss bridge, be sure to use 
a high quality 50 0hm load and a good watt meter. (Read Bird or 
Coaxial Dynamics)

John   ab6li







 
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[Repeater-Builder] SEA 222 ACSB Repeater P.A. re-use?

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I know that the SEA ACSB repeater itself is useless. I was wondering 
if anyone has taken the time to fool around with the PA assembly to 
see if it has any use for a 222-225 FM amp? I fell into two of these 
things. I have seen some that were used just for the enclosure and 
nothing else.

Perhaps that is all they are good for.

Thanks. John





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: highest repeater site

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 06:21 PM 10/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >Is there a repeater on the space station?  
> >I wonder if it is a Mastr-Pro or a ??
> 
> <---No, it's a (s)Pace.
> 
> (showing my age?)
> 
> Ken
> (FWIW, my repeater was at 10,023 feet for many years. Do I win 
anything?)
> 
Well, if you're talking Hawaii, I would think that you certainly had 
the highest site as long as the Height Above Average Terrain was a 
factor! ;-)

73 de John





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Link-Com RLC-4 question.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

I have an rlc-4 with three ports running. Port 1 is the repeater, port
2 is the Doug Hall RBI, and port 3 is a half duplex 420 link radio. 
The
problem I have is when the port 3 420 link is connected to the port 1
repeater, I get the port 3 courtesy tone out of port 1 just after the
transmitter starts transmitting, AND after the port 3 rx drops out. I
was trying to use command 047 to delete the courtesy tones for rx
dropout on ports 2,3,and 4, but the controller will not take the
command when I enter it. HOWEVER, it did seem to take the command 
once,
but I was not expecting the telemetry, so I have no idea what it was.
That might be where the problem lies. I think I did something I
shouldn't have and screwed the programming.

Do most of you just empty the macro to delete the courtesy tone?

Any help?

Thanks in advance. John ab6li

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Link-Com RLC-4 question.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "k6jsi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi John,
> 
> Command 047 simply enables/disables an event trigger.  You had to 
> enter the event trigger as 'eee' to make command 047 do something.
> 
> You might want to run command 045 and then the 'eee' you entered in 
> your 047 command, to see if the 'eee' command is Enabled or 
Disabled 
> right now.  Again, that is the only thing command 047 does is 
Enable 
> or Disable an event trigger.
> 
> That action would stop the coutesy tone that would normally fire 
> when the port 3 RX goes inactive.  That courtesy tone would also be 
> sent to all connected ports, including port 1.
> 
> You can email me off-list if you like, and we can go further into 
> fixing your problem.
> 
> Shorty, K6JSI
>

Hi Shorty.

Thanks for the input. It gave me a better understanding of the 045, 
046 and 047 codes. I did find the problem however. When you enter the 
event number, you must leave off the leading zero. Instead of 011, 
you simply enter 11. I wasn't getting any telemetry at one point, (I 
am not sure why) but when I did it was error 2, which is too many 
digits entered. I remember running into this same issue with one of 
the timer settings.

All is well now. I am courtesy tone free.

Thanks again.Johnab6li

[Repeater-Builder] DB 212-2 Harness info.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Does anyone know what the impedance of the cable used in the phasing 
sections of the harness for the DB 212-2? I see on RBTIP that the 
matching pigtail uses RG-83 35 ohm cable. I will assume that the length 
of that cable is 1/4 wavelength minus the velocity factor. What about 
the cable from the loops to the tee? Can you get away with just 
changing the length of the loops, or does the harness have to be cut to 
frequency also? I have a DB 212-2 up on the tower now but the harness 
has been compromised and is contaminated with water. I want to build 
another harness to replace it, if I can get the right info.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.John

[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB 212-2 Harness info.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> The coax to each dipole needs to be equal lengths of 50-ohm cable.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
Thanks Chuck.
So if I understand correctly, the length of the 50 ohm sections is 
irrelevant, as long as they are equal? Also, is my previous 
assumption that the matching stub is just made of 35 ohm cable cut to 
1/4 wavelength at the operating frequency minus the vel. factor 
correct?

Thans again for the help.
John
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "John Everson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 2:37 AM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] DB 212-2 Harness info.
> 
> 
> > Hello to the group.
> > 
> > Does anyone know what the impedance of the cable used in the 
phasing 
> > sections of the harness for the DB 212-2? I see on RBTIP that the 
> > matching pigtail uses RG-83 35 ohm cable. I will assume that the 
length 
> > of that cable is 1/4 wavelength minus the velocity factor. What 
about 
> > the cable from the loops to the tee? Can you get away with just 
> > changing the length of the loops, or does the harness have to be 
cut to 
> > frequency also? I have a DB 212-2 up on the tower now but the 
harness 
> > has been compromised and is contaminated with water. I want to 
build 
> > another harness to replace it, if I can get the right info.
> > 
> > Any info would be appreciated.
> > 
> > Thanks.John
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB 212-2 Harness info.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Kincaid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> I think this is just sloppy word choice, rather than a lack of
> understanding, but I've seen it a couple of times now so let me 
clear
> it up in any case.  Regarding velocity factor, it's a factor, so you
> want to multiply it.  Subtraction is not a part of the equation.
> 
> Say your free space length is 100 inches, and your velocity factor 
is
> 88%.  Your length in cable is then 88 inches:
> 
> 100 x 0.88 = 88
> 
> Regards,
> Jeff
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "John Everson"
>  wrote:
> >
> > So if I understand correctly, the length of the 50 ohm sections 
is 
> > irrelevant, as long as they are equal? Also, is my previous 
> > assumption that the matching stub is just made of 35 ohm cable 
cut to 
> > 1/4 wavelength at the operating frequency minus the vel. factor 
> > correct?
> > 
> > Thans again for the help.
> > John
>
Hello Jeff.

You are correct. It was a poor choice of words on my part. I 
understand the theory of velocity factor. I am still not sure about 
the lengths involved with the harness. If the 50 ohm sections from 
the loops to the "tee" can be any length, (as long as they are the 
same) doesn't that affect the impedance at the tee? I will assume the 
impedance at the feedpoint of the loop is 200 ohms. If we use half 
wavelengths of coax between the loops, the feedpoint impedance will 
be repeated at the end of the cable to the tee. Is this correct? If 
so, when the loops are connected to the tee, we should see 100 ohms, 
then, the matching section brings us to about 50 ohms. 

Is this correct? Or am I out to lunch?

Is the matching section a quarter wave?

I need to dig out the antenna handbook and refresh. That is for 
certain.

Thanks.   John



 

[Repeater-Builder] Optimum Antenna spacing from tower.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Does anyone know what the optimum spacing away from an 18" faced tower 
is to minimize pattern distortion? I have to side mount two DB 224 
antennas and I would like to try to keep the patterns as close to omni 
as possible. I will also have to side mount a 224 Mhz collinear and I 
was wondering if the spacing will differ between the dipole style 
antenna and the collinear styles. 

I used to have a pattern modeling program on a disc just for this type 
of thing and it seems to be missing.

Any comments are appreciated.

John

[Repeater-Builder] Two repeaters, one available port.

[John Everson]

Good morning to the group.

I have a situation where I have two repeaters and only one available 
port. Has anyone tried this? If so, what method did you use, and what 
were the results? I have done this in the past, but it was a long time 
ago, and my memory isn't what it used to be. It seemed to work, but 
back then, I may have not really have been as discriminating as I am 
today.

Any comments appreciated.

73 de John

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Two repeaters, one available port.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> At 10/18/2008 08:56, you wrote:
> >At 07:32 AM 10/18/2008, John Everson wrote:
> >
> > >Good morning to the group.
> > >
> > >I have a situation where I have two repeaters and only one 
available
> > >port. Has anyone tried this? If so, what method did you use, and 
what
> > >were the results? I have done this in the past, but it was a 
long time
> > >ago, and my memory isn't what it used to be. It seemed to work, 
but
> > >back then, I may have not really have been as discriminating as 
I am
> > >today.
> >
> ><What kind of "port" are you talking about? Antenna? 
Controller?
> 
> I assume he's referring to repeater controller ports.
> 
> I believe you can simply tie the PTT & audio out of a single port 
to 2 
> transmitters.  Just make sure the open PTT voltage of both 
transmitters is 
> roughly the same.  If one is 5 volts & the other is 12, the 12 volt 
source 
> could damage the 5V PTT line.
> 
> The receivers are a different story, as you'll need some sort of 
port 
> combiner to handle the COS & CTCSS logic outputs & audio outputs 
from the 2 
> receivers.  I built a 4 port unit that logically ORs all 4 COS 
lines & 
> squelch gates/mixes the audio from each receiver.  Unfortunately I 
never 
> scanned the circuit so I'd have to rummage through my paper files 
if you're 
> interested in the schematic.
> 
> Bob NO6B
>
Thanks for the reply guys.
I should have made it more clear. I was talking about having just one 
repeater port available. It seems that in the past, I used diodes to 
tie the cos and pl logic signals to the controller port and then 
combined the audio signals together but that was a long time ago. I 
would be driving a long way just to fool around with the thing so I 
think that I'll test something here on the bench before I go back. If 
I can't make anything work here on the bench, I may take you up on 
your schematic Bob.

You know, it seems that you always need one more port. If you have 
two, three would be really handy, four, five would be just the 
ticket. If I had ten, well maybe not then.

Thanks again.   John   AB6LI 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Two repeaters, one available port.

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Attached is a circuit I have used several times to combine two 
receivers into one output.  I have used it for adding a control 
receiver to a repeater controller as well as two remote base radios 
into a single port on a repeater controller, but it can be used to 
add a second input to a controller for two repeaters in parallel.
> 
> As Bob indicated, just put the transmitter PTT and audio in 
parallel, and use this circuit to combine the two receivers and COS 
signals into single audio and COS signals for the input of your 
controller.
> 
> If you are not using GE equipment, just make sure the COS signals 
are around 8 to 9 volts from each receiver when interfaced to this 
circuit.  If you only have 5 volt COS signals reduce the supply 
voltage to the circuit to 5 VDC to use the lower voltage inputs.
> 
> 73 - Jim  W5ZIT 

Hi Jim.

I think I must have a configuration problem with my computer (it is 
used, but new to me). I can see the box for the attachment but there 
is nothing to "click" on. I would like to see your schematic. It 
sounds like just the thing. I am sure that someone on the list can 
help.

Thanks for posting the circuit.

73 de John

[Repeater-Builder] Motorola GTX Cover removal?

[John Everson]

OK guy and gals. I give up. How do you get the cover off of the GTX 
radio? 

Thanks in advance,   John

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola GTX Cover removal?

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "res1q6fs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Just pry up each side of the cover. The plastic cover is tough and 
I have never broken one. Just take it easy. With strong finger nails 
or a small blade screw driver it does come off eventually, believe 
me.  I had the same thoughts when I tried to remove my first GTX 
mobile cover.
> 
> Roger W5RDW
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: John Everson 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 5:34 PM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola GTX Cover removal?
> 
> 
>   OK guy and gals. I give up. How do you get the cover off of the 
GTX 
>   radio? 
> 
>   Thanks in advance, John

That did it! I was afraid to get too burly with it but I will agree 
that the cover is a whole lot tougher than it looks.

Thanks again.  John   ab6li
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> 
> 
--
> 
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
>   Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1760 - Release Date: 
11/1/2008 9:36 AM
>

[Repeater-Builder] MX-4 Memory exp board for ACC 850

[John Everson]

Hello to the group. 

I recently purchased an 850 controller with a repeater. The controller 
did not work when I powered it up. Upon inspection, I found that the MX-
4 memory board (aftermarket I assume) had come unplugged from the main 
board. My question is, which way does it plug in? The connector is not 
keyed. The MX-4 sits perpendicular to the main board. So, does the 
board sit over the top of the main board, or the other direction, 
facing the phone patch board?

I have no documentation for the MX-4 so I am a bit in the dark.

Thanks in advance.

John  AB6LI

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MX-4 Memory exp board for ACC 850

[John Everson]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Zastrow"  
wrote:
>
> John,
> 
> You might check out this link to see if it matches up with your MX-4:
> 
> http://www.accrepairs.com/mx4.html
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Doug
>  
Thanks Doug. That link showed me everything I needed to know and more! 
I guess I would have found that had I done a search with Google etc. I 
guess I am just spoiled with the wealth of info here.

Thanks again, Have a Happy New Year.

John

[Repeater-Builder] UHF Motorola MCX 100 info.

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

Has anyone used the MCX 100 as a link radio? I had a friend burn a 
couple of proms for the frequency and pl, now I just need to dig up 
some locations for the signals in and out of the radio. The ptt, audio 
in and out seem simple enough. Does anyone have any shortcuts for the 
pl and cos logic? Also, I did not receive any cables with the radios I 
obtained, does this radio share cabling with any other radios? 

These things seem pretty sturdy and I thought they would make a good 
choice for linking.

Thanks in advance and Happy New Year to all.

JohnAb6li

[Repeater-Builder] 33 Split GE MVP's Wanted...

[John Everson]

Hello to the group.

We have a project going and could really use a few, (or more) 33 split 
(good for 6 meters) MVP radios. Does anyone have some stashed away that 
might be available? 

Please contact me off list at   johnever...@sbcglobal.net 

Thanks and Happy New Year to all.

Johnab6li