[Repeater-Builder] Re: battery backup board for micor power supply?
Scott, Maybe I am confused...I thought that was the power supply? (the # number I gave) Are you connecting a battery to that 9.6v? Sorry for being dense ;-) Thanks and 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is none that I know of. The battery backup option was usually provided in the power supply, NOT the station chassis itself. On several that I have done that need battery backup, I have attached a 7809 9V regulator with a 1N4001 diode in series with the ground terminal to boost the voltage to around 9.6V. I have often thought of building this onto a card that would plug into one of the card slots, but I never had the time. This would create a situation like the GE station's 10V regulator card. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:26 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] battery backup board for micor power supply? Is there such a beast? What is the number for that? I have a TPN1110B power supply. Thanks, Robert Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008 12:19 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: battery backup board for micor power supply?
No, I am the dense one. After the day I had, I read your post as asking about a battery backup board for in the CHASSIS of the micor station. Purely an oops on my part. I *think* that the only power supply that had battery facilities from factory is the switching type power supply. They had a seperate set of contacts that went to the battery and an audio lead that went to the transmitter so the users could tell when the station was on battery backup. On these supplies, the battery power was also run through the 9.6v regulator so that voltage was available. I'm not sure if there was a similar system available for the brute force supplies or not. Sorry about the confusion. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:42 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: battery backup board for micor power supply? Scott, Maybe I am confused...I thought that was the power supply? (the # number I gave) Are you connecting a battery to that 9.6v? Sorry for being dense ;-) Thanks and 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is none that I know of. The battery backup option was usually provided in the power supply, NOT the station chassis itself. On several that I have done that need battery backup, I have attached a 7809 9V regulator with a 1N4001 diode in series with the ground terminal to boost the voltage to around 9.6V. I have often thought of building this onto a card that would plug into one of the card slots, but I never had the time. This would create a situation like the GE station's 10V regulator card. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:26 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] battery backup board for micor power supply? Is there such a beast? What is the number for that? I have a TPN1110B power supply. Thanks, Robert Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008 12:19 PM Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008 12:19 PM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The simplest way is just to get the IOTA supply and float it across the battery. Thats it, nothing else needed. Get an IOTA big enough to power whatever you have, and still have some left over for charging. You don't need (or want) diodes, resistors, or relays. I have one caveat with the Iota. In my system it resulted in a horrible noise because the repeater itself is located about 10' away from the antenna, and the Iota has some significant energy internally at about 600kHz. That mixed with my TX, and created two sidebands, one of which fed back into my RX. It would come and go dependent on load/temperature. If you're mounted far enough away, then that shouldn't be a problem.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
The Powergate PG40S is sold by West Mountain Radio see: http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm; (delete the quote marks) Charles, KB3CEZ --- Doug Zastrow [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Doug, I found what I believe to be the Powergate web site at http://www.powergatellc.com/ but could not find the PW40S under any of the categories listed nor through product no. search. Am I at the right web site? Any hints on finding this model? Doug Z. - Original Message - From: Doug Dickinson To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup The best arrangement I have seen so far is the Powergate PW40S which has the built-in 3 stage charger. I have used them and they are really good with a zero time switchover so none of the little electrons in the controller get confused and reset or worse, lockup the controller. It also charges the battery the RIGHT way, with a 3 stage charger. It can be duplicated I am sure, but at the price, I just would buy it and spend the time tinkering with the RF for a good repeater. IMHO Doug KC0SDQ Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com
RE: [SPAM] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
This is what he was talking about. http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Doug Zastrow Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [SPAM] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup Hi Doug, I found what I believe to be the Powergate web site at http://www.powergatellc.com/ but could not find the PW40S under any of the categories listed nor through product no. search. Am I at the right web site? Any hints on finding this model? Doug Z. - Original Message - From: Doug Dickinson mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup The best arrangement I have seen so far is the Powergate PW40S which has the built-in 3 stage charger. I have used them and they are really good with a zero time switchover so none of the little electrons in the controller get confused and reset or worse, lockup the controller. It also charges the battery the RIGHT way, with a 3 stage charger. It can be duplicated I am sure, but at the price, I just would buy it and spend the time tinkering with the RF for a good repeater. IMHO Doug KC0SDQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
Try this link: http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm Doug
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
The best arrangement I have seen so far is the Powergate PW40S which has the built-in 3 stage charger. I have used them and they are really good with a zero time switchover so none of the little electrons in the controller get confused and reset or worse, lockup the controller. It also charges the battery the RIGHT way, with a 3 stage charger. It can be duplicated I am sure, but at the price, I just would buy it and spend the time tinkering with the RF for a good repeater. IMHO Doug KC0SDQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
Hi Doug, I found what I believe to be the Powergate web site at http://www.powergatellc.com/ but could not find the PW40S under any of the categories listed nor through product no. search. Am I at the right web site? Any hints on finding this model? Doug Z. - Original Message - From: Doug Dickinson To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 7:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup The best arrangement I have seen so far is the Powergate PW40S which has the built-in 3 stage charger. I have used them and they are really good with a zero time switchover so none of the little electrons in the controller get confused and reset or worse, lockup the controller. It also charges the battery the RIGHT way, with a 3 stage charger. It can be duplicated I am sure, but at the price, I just would buy it and spend the time tinkering with the RF for a good repeater. IMHO Doug KC0SDQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the positive power bus of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wm5c [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would be appreciated. Danny WM5C Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG) Brady, TX www.hothog.org
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
I have to agree with Dave. Using the proper charger or power supply for keeping the batts up. I have my batteries housed in a stainless steel enclosure that is anchored into concrete outside my ham shack. I learned the hard way about using the proper charger... I just tapped into my repeaters 25amp power supply to keep the batteries charged till I could make a charging circuit ... a, big mistake. That charging circuit - oops, I forgot... about a month of operation, I was working around the tower and smelled what smelled like battery acid. Sure enough, I cooked both flooded lead acid batteries and they were fuming acid vapor. Lucky the box is a comercial built ss box. Now, after that incident, I have been using a marine (boat) smart charger which automatically determines wether to charge or float. Since battery chargers are, ummm, quite noisy and not all that nice on batteries due to most of them only using a half wave recifier ( AC is not nice on batteries ). I added a 25A bridge rectifier and added extra filtering which is just a big Motorola mobile power filter block from the Micor dayz. It is also isolated using some BIG diodes - like Dave's, the threaded case type diodes which is bolted to a heatsink. The system is running well in this configuration. If using flooded type batteries, do a monthly check on acid levels ! I recomend AGM batteries ( Absorbed Glass Mat ) or if that is a little pricy, get marine deep cycle batteries - do not use automotive batteries unless you just absolutely half to. Dave / N9NLU www.kmcg.org On 1/9/07, ve7ltd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the positive power bus of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, wm5c [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would be appreciated. Danny WM5C Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG) Brady, TX www.hothog.org
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
I had a similar experience: I had a couple of deep cycle batteries in an outdoor steel enclosure that I would charge periodically by connecting a standard automotive charger. At times I would forget it was connected, so eventually the batteries were cooked. After some research on the web, I settled on an IOTA DLS-15 power supply with an IQ4 smart charge controller. It is connected full time to the (new) batteries, and I only have to add water every couple of months. I have not noted any kind of noise generated by the charger. This setup works very well for me. Richard, N7TGB -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Schmidt Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 9:26 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup I have to agree with Dave. Using the proper charger or power supply for keeping the batts up. I have my batteries housed in a stainless steel enclosure that is anchored into concrete outside my ham shack. I learned the hard way about using the proper charger... I just tapped into my repeaters 25amp power supply to keep the batteries charged till I could make a charging circuit ... a, big mistake. That charging circuit - oops, I forgot... about a month of operation, I was working around the tower and smelled what smelled like battery acid. Sure enough, I cooked both flooded lead acid batteries and they were fuming acid vapor. Lucky the box is a comercial built ss box. Now, after that incident, I have been using a marine (boat) smart charger which automatically determines wether to charge or float. Since battery chargers are, ummm, quite noisy and not all that nice on batteries due to most of them only using a half wave recifier ( AC is not nice on batteries ). I added a 25A bridge rectifier and added extra filtering which is just a big Motorola mobile power filter block from the Micor dayz. It is also isolated using some BIG diodes - like Dave's, the threaded case type diodes which is bolted to a heatsink. The system is running well in this configuration. If using flooded type batteries, do a monthly check on acid levels ! I recomend AGM batteries ( Absorbed Glass Mat ) or if that is a little pricy, get marine deep cycle batteries - do not use automotive batteries unless you just absolutely half to. Dave / N9NLU www.kmcg.org On 1/9/07, ve7ltd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the positive power bus of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wm5c [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would be appreciated. Danny WM5C Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG) Brady, TX www.hothog.org
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
One source of (almost) free diode pairs is any alternator shop. The common configuration of diodes in an alternator has three on a plate, and two plates. One plate is common anode, the other plate is common cathode. The common failure mode is that one diode opens or shorts and the technician replaces the entire plate. This means that two perfectly 20 to 75 amp premounted diodes (depending on the alternator current rating) goes in the trash. Some shops press out the good diodes and reuse them, many don't. At one site I've seen an alternator diode plate with two diodes (it was obvious that the bad diode was on the end that was hacksawed off) mounted to an insulator block and that on a rack panel. Mike WA6ILQ At 09:25 AM 01/09/07, you wrote: I have to agree with Dave. Using the proper charger or power supply for keeping the batts up. I have my batteries housed in a stainless steel enclosure that is anchored into concrete outside my ham shack. I learned the hard way about using the proper charger... I just tapped into my repeaters 25amp power supply to keep the batteries charged till I could make a charging circuit ... a, big mistake. That charging circuit - oops, I forgot... about a month of operation, I was working around the tower and smelled what smelled like battery acid. Sure enough, I cooked both flooded lead acid batteries and they were fuming acid vapor. Lucky the box is a comercial built ss box. Now, after that incident, I have been using a marine (boat) smart charger which automatically determines wether to charge or float. Since battery chargers are, ummm, quite noisy and not all that nice on batteries due to most of them only using a half wave recifier ( AC is not nice on batteries ). I added a 25A bridge rectifier and added extra filtering which is just a big Motorola mobile power filter block from the Micor dayz. It is also isolated using some BIG diodes - like Dave's, the threaded case type diodes which is bolted to a heatsink. The system is running well in this configuration. If using flooded type batteries, do a monthly check on acid levels ! I recomend AGM batteries ( Absorbed Glass Mat ) or if that is a little pricy, get marine deep cycle batteries - do not use automotive batteries unless you just absolutely half to. Dave / N9NLU http://www.kmcg.orgwww.kmcg.org On 1/9/07, ve7ltd mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the positive power bus of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wm5c [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would be appreciated. Danny WM5C Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG) Brady, TX http://www.hothog.org/www.hothog.org
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
The simplest way is just to get the IOTA supply and float it across the battery. Thats it, nothing else needed. Get an IOTA big enough to power whatever you have, and still have some left over for charging. You don't need (or want) diodes, resistors, or relays. It shouldn't be that easy, but in this case it is. I have some commercial sites that we run this way without problems. We have some with big Astron supplies, but we are changing them out to the IOTA. The new supplies will pay for themselves in a couple of years due to higher efficiency over the linear Astrons. The Astrons will also work well, with very minor mods. You still don't need the diodes. We have used the Astrons for over 12 years this way, the IOTAs for about 2.5 . Joe --- Richard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had a similar experience: I had a couple of deep cycle batteries in an outdoor steel enclosure that I would charge periodically by connecting a standard automotive charger. At times I would forget it was connected, so eventually the batteries were cooked. After some research on the web, I settled on an IOTA DLS-15 power supply with an IQ4 smart charge controller. It is connected full time to the (new) batteries, and I only have to add water every couple of months. I have not noted any kind of noise generated by the charger. This setup works very well for me. Richard, N7TGB -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Schmidt Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 9:26 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup I have to agree with Dave. Using the proper charger or power supply for keeping the batts up. I have my batteries housed in a stainless steel enclosure that is anchored into concrete outside my ham shack. I learned the hard way about using the proper charger... I just tapped into my repeaters 25amp power supply to keep the batteries charged till I could make a charging circuit ... a, big mistake. That charging circuit - oops, I forgot... about a month of operation, I was working around the tower and smelled what smelled like battery acid. Sure enough, I cooked both flooded lead acid batteries and they were fuming acid vapor. Lucky the box is a comercial built ss box. Now, after that incident, I have been using a marine (boat) smart charger which automatically determines wether to charge or float. Since battery chargers are, ummm, quite noisy and not all that nice on batteries due to most of them only using a half wave recifier ( AC is not nice on batteries ). I added a 25A bridge rectifier and added extra filtering which is just a big Motorola mobile power filter block from the Micor dayz. It is also isolated using some BIG diodes - like Dave's, the threaded case type diodes which is bolted to a heatsink. The system is running well in this configuration. If using flooded type batteries, do a monthly check on acid levels ! I recomend AGM batteries ( Absorbed Glass Mat ) or if that is a little pricy, get marine deep cycle batteries - do not use automotive batteries unless you just absolutely half to. Dave / N9NLU www.kmcg.org On 1/9/07, ve7ltd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the positive power bus of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wm5c [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone
