RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-18 Thread Gary Schafer


 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of George Henry
 Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 1:10 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other
 than hardline
 
 Visit Polyphaser's web site for excellent professional advice on lightning
 protection.  DO NOT use a separate ground rod for your antenna if it will
 be
 any significant distance from the electrical mains ground for the house!
 You will induce ground loop currents which can be VERY high from a
 near-strike!  All mains, telephone, cable TV, and lightning grounds should
 be bonded together at the same ground connection (usually the water main,
 in
 residential installations).  (I did end up using a separate ground rod for
 my ham and satellite antennas, simply because the water main ground was
 not
 easily accessible, but my ground rod is within 2 feet of the water main
 entrance to the house)
 
 George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
 
 

There is nothing wrong with using multiple ground rods, in fact 1 or 2
ground rods are in no way enough.

A single point ground system does not mean that all equipment is tied to
only one ground rod. A single point ground system is accomplished when all
equipment lines including antenna cables, power lines, phone lines etc. all
are tied to a common point BEFORE they go to the equipment. That common
point is then tied to a multiple ground rod system including the tower
ground system. All grounds need to be bonded together.

Reading the polyphaser site is good advice.

73
Gary  K4FMX




RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-17 Thread no6b
At 3/16/2007 18:34, you wrote:
Joe,


Re the Diamond antenna:  No, due to quality difference between it and a
commercial-grade antenna.  Consider a DB antenna.

This isn't a comm. site installation, just someone's home.  So unless money 
is of no consideration I'd stick with the Diamond.  A commercial antenna 
having the same gain as the Diamond is going to be very heavy  expensive, 
 will offer no advantage in coverage from a low-level location.

The UHF connector on your Diamond antenna can be a problem, but if you mate 
a silver-plated PL-259 to it you should be OK.

Bob NO6B




RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-17 Thread Barry C'

I cant see nay advantage in a commercial stick in those circumstance as long 
as a decent seal tape is correctly wrapped over any fitting or joins to 
avoid the wicking of H2o ( assuming the peformance is similar)



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline -  other 
than hardline
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 06:41:27 -0700

At 3/16/2007 18:34, you wrote:
 Joe,


 Re the Diamond antenna:  No, due to quality difference between it and a
 commercial-grade antenna.  Consider a DB antenna.

This isn't a comm. site installation, just someone's home.  So unless money
is of no consideration I'd stick with the Diamond.  A commercial antenna
having the same gain as the Diamond is going to be very heavy  expensive,
 will offer no advantage in coverage from a low-level location.

The UHF connector on your Diamond antenna can be a problem, but if you mate
a silver-plated PL-259 to it you should be OK.

Bob NO6B



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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-17 Thread George Henry

- Original Message - 
From: Mr John Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Cc: John Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 10:33 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than 
hardline


 Joe,

 You will be better off if you stay away from the
 LMR400 type of coax due to the braid can rub against
 the shield (dissimilar metals) and create noise in
 your repeater system.

 Yes, I would replace your coax run with Heliax cable
 which is sometimes called hard line.

 I use Andrew LDF4-50A 1/2 Heliax on VHF runs up to
 150 Ft and I use LDF5-50A 7/8 Heliax on UHF runs over
 75 Ft. Make sure you install grounding kits on each
 Heliax cable before entering your home for lightning
 protection. Connect this to a good copper lightning
 rod earth ground.



Visit Polyphaser's web site for excellent professional advice on lightning 
protection.  DO NOT use a separate ground rod for your antenna if it will be 
any significant distance from the electrical mains ground for the house! 
You will induce ground loop currents which can be VERY high from a 
near-strike!  All mains, telephone, cable TV, and lightning grounds should 
be bonded together at the same ground connection (usually the water main, in 
residential installations).  (I did end up using a separate ground rod for 
my ham and satellite antennas, simply because the water main ground was not 
easily accessible, but my ground rod is within 2 feet of the water main 
entrance to the house)

George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-16 Thread Bob Dengler
At 3/16/2007 01:12 PM, you wrote:
Gentlemen,

Is LMR-400 a good coax to use for my 70cm repeater feedline.

No.

I would like to keep my new Daiwa CN-801 (UHF connectors) SWR Power
meter in the Tx line permanently. Is this a good idea? It is

No; the power sensing diode may generate IMD.

I am using a Diamond X510MA (17 feet long with a UHF connector) dual
band antenna at 65 feet high. Should I be using a different antenna
for my repeat operation?

No.  For a home-based repeater you probably want all the on-the-horizon 
gain you can get.

Bob NO6B




Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-16 Thread Andrew G.
Is LMR-400 a good coax to use for my 70cm repeater feedline. My 
feedline is 130 feet long and located at my house. Should I really go 
?to hardline and replace my LMR-400 feedline? If so what diameter? 
Will it really be worth the cost and trouble to run it through my 
attic and into my house?

  It is a wise move. I used about 75ft of LMR-400 to get my UHF machine on the 
air in a pinch. This install unfortunately became permanent. For a while the 
LMR is OK but after about a year or so in the weather you start getting duplex 
noise occasionaly in the machine. For a 130ft run Andrews LDF4-50A (1/2) or 
eqivalent is fine. If you want to spend the extra money LDF5-50A (7/8) is a 
lot thicker/stiffer but has about .8db of loss for 100ft @ 440MHz. 
   
  
Your article indicates that some LMR-nnn coax are OK for cabinet 
connections. Is LMR-400 Ultraflex a good choice for cabinet 
connections? I am using RG-142B/U now for my duplexer connections (an 
Angle Linear custom made duplexer, bandpass cavities, and preamp). 
Should I use RG-142/B/U for my (30 inch long) Tx to duplexer run 
also? 

  The RG-142 is OK for duplexer cabling. Only improvement here would be to go 
to RG-214. As far as equipment jumpers RG-214 would be the better bet 
especially for the TX side of the duplexer.
  
I would like to keep my new Daiwa CN-801 (UHF connectors) SWR Power 
meter in the Tx line permanently. Is this a good idea? It is 
comforting to see the power and SWR at a glance.

  Bad Idea. The Daiwa is a nice meter, but is not exactly the best shielded 
device in the world. Especially with UHF SO-239 connectors on the back. Just 
adding more loss and another source of noise/desense in the cabinet.
  
I am using a Diamond X510MA (17 feet long with a UHF connector) dual 
band antenna at 65 feet high. Should I be using a different antenna 
for my repeat operation? If so, what antenna?

  The Diamond is fine in my book (prefer with N connector but whatever is 
available). If you want to go commercial grade, the RFS PD-1151 is the 
equivalent to the 510. Otherwise if you want to really look for the horizon 
with the most gain, the Andrew or RFS 22ft 10dbd verticals are really nice.
  
Is the Kenwood TKR-850 repeater a good unit. I just ordered one to 
replace my Micors. I have nursed my two Micors for the last year, and 
just gave up on them. One problem after another on both units.

  The 850 is better than a micor (not trying to start a holy war with this one 
guys) in the long run. It is new, synthesized, and best of all, new. Never had 
a problem with one before.  
  
Please let me know your thoughts and suggestions

  You got em'.
   
  Good luck, Andy 

 
-
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-16 Thread Chuck Kelsey
Save yourself some grief and keep all LMR cable out of any of your repeater 
installation.

Chuck
WB2EDV


- Original Message - 
From: kc7ght [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 4:12 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than 
hardline


 Gentlemen,

 Is LMR-400 a good coax to use for my 70cm repeater feedline. My
 feedline is 130 feet long and located at my house. Should I really go
 to hardline and replace my LMR-400 feedline? If so what diameter?
 Will it really be worth the cost and trouble to run it through my
 attic and into my house?
 



RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than hardline

2007-03-16 Thread Eric Lemmon
Joe,

Re the LMR-400 coax:  No, due to dissimilar-metal issues.  Use RG-142B/U or
RG-400/U for in-cabinet wiring.

Re the Daiwa: No, due to potential IMD and losses in the UHF (gasp!)
connectors.

Re the Diamond antenna:  No, due to quality difference between it and a
commercial-grade antenna.  Consider a DB antenna.

Re the Kenwood TKR-850 repeater:  I consider the TKR-850 to be roughly
equivalent to a Motorola GR-1225, meaning that they work very well as
low-tier repeaters for non-demanding applications.  If you want a current
model repeater that is roughly equivalent to a MICOR, consider the Motorola
MTR-2000 or a Kenwood TKR-840.  The latter requires a separate PA.

Before we leave the topic, would you please explain the problems you had
with your MICORs?  There are many pro-MICOR folks on this reflector who
would like to know exactly what problems you have or had with those
repeaters.  Perhaps others can help you resolve those issues.  Please give
us that opportunity.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kc7ght
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 1:13 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Coax for cabinet and for feedline - other than
hardline

Gentlemen,

Is LMR-400 a good coax to use for my 70cm repeater feedline. My 
feedline is 130 feet long and located at my house. Should I really go 
to hardline and replace my LMR-400 feedline? If so what diameter? 
Will it really be worth the cost and trouble to run it through my 
attic and into my house?

Your article indicates that some LMR-nnn coax are OK for cabinet 
connections. Is LMR-400 Ultraflex a good choice for cabinet 
connections? I am using RG-142B/U now for my duplexer connections (an 
Angle Linear custom made duplexer, bandpass cavities, and preamp). 
Should I use RG-142/B/U for my (30 inch long) Tx to duplexer run 
also? 

I would like to keep my new Daiwa CN-801 (UHF connectors) SWR Power 
meter in the Tx line permanently. Is this a good idea? It is 
comforting to see the power and SWR at a glance.

I am using a Diamond X510MA (17 feet long with a UHF connector) dual 
band antenna at 65 feet high. Should I be using a different antenna 
for my repeat operation? If so, what antenna?

Is the Kenwood TKR-850 repeater a good unit. I just ordered one to 
replace my Micors. I have nursed my two Micors for the last year, and 
just gave up on them. One problem after another on both units.

Please let me know your thoughts and suggestions

Thank you.

Joe
KC7GHT