RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. I haven't had friction tape in years. I remember finding rolls of it in my dad's toolbox when I was a kid, and always wondered why anyone would use it instead of regular electrical tape. Maybe some of you old-timers could comment on the reason for its existance and intended purpose. Was it just a precursor to today's plastic electrical tape, or did it have some other definitive purpose, maybe specific to cloth-insulated electrical wiring? While we're talking about tapes, somewhat off-topic, but repeater-related nonetheless. Decibel attaches their harnesses to the mast using a filament tape for strength, topped with an aluminum tape for UV protection. At one time, Decibel sold these tapes as replacement parts, but Andrew (since buying Decibel) no longer sells them (at least my distributor couldn't find them in the current price sheet). Silly me lost the 3M part numbers for the tapes, so I had to re-research them last week to order more since I ran out. For those that are interested: 3M 890 - Black polyester-backed glass filament tape. Original Decibel part was 12mm width, which seems hard to find. I was able to order 18mm width in small quantity from RS Hughes (www.rshughes.com). To order the 12mm part, no distributor I could find would sell small quantities, only by the case. 3M 425 - Aluminum foil tape, 4.6 mil, UV/outdoor rated. Available from U-line (www.uline.com) in various widths (3/4 is what Decibel used). --- Jeff WN3A
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
My Dad always had friction tape as well. He used it to bandage damage to small trees and limbs and to fix his leaky garden hose (it didn't work well on the hose - but Duct Tape hadn't been invented yet). I used to see a lot of friction tape used in knob and tube house wiring too. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Jeff DePolo j...@broadsci.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:03 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape I haven't had friction tape in years. I remember finding rolls of it in my dad's toolbox when I was a kid, and always wondered why anyone would use it instead of regular electrical tape. Maybe some of you old-timers could comment on the reason for its existance and intended purpose. Was it just a precursor to today's plastic electrical tape, or did it have some other definitive purpose, maybe specific to cloth-insulated electrical wiring?
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Wed, Sep 09, 2009 at 04:51:22PM -0700, Eric Lemmon wrote: Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. I beg to differ. Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) Especially if it's going to be heated or warm at all, the adhesive on vinyl tape will eventually become a mess, and allow the tape to wander. Cloth tape will stick to and stay with its adhesive. There is a place for all three. 73, Majdi, N0RMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kris Kirby Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Thu, 10 Sep 2009, Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H? wonder when it became ?Queer Tape?? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4?s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force? I?ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! F-4 tape! That's the stuff. As far as I'm aware, it was called Queer Tape as of about 30 years ago. ;-) -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Funny... all those years in maintenance and I've never heard that before. Musta been a term that was used in the fighter community. I mostly worked heavies, and we definitely had a different vocabulary than the pointy-noses dudes! 73, Mike WM4B On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 7:30 AM , Kris Kirby wrote: On Thu, 10 Sep 2009, Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H? wonder when it became ?Queer Tape?? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4?s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force? I?ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! F-4 tape! That's the stuff. As far as I'm aware, it was called Queer Tape as of about 30 years ago. ;-) -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Rubber tape is good for high-vibration environments, where the insulation could get rubbed off over time. The rubber would get worn down before the insulation. Apply cloth tape over it to keep rubber from dripping off in high heat. Cloth tape is good for higher temps (won't stretch like plastic), and you can tie it in knots :) BUT, cloth tape attracts moisture! Cloth tape is good for base-ball bats! :) I like Super 88 and 33+, depending on the application. 77 is the cheaper stuff I use to tape wires together and pull through conduit. 73, KD6AAJ --- On Wed, 9/9/09, hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com wrote: From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, September 9, 2009, 3:47 PM I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks? Yahoo! Groups Links mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterjsu...@intrastar.net wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
If you can get a hold of the 'real' F-4 tape that the Air Force uses, it will not leave any type of mess behind and it is not affected by UV rays. I've seen stuff exposed to sunlight for years and it was fine. A sharp knife or razor blade applied longitudinally will split it open and allow you to peel it off completely, leaving no residue whatsoever. The only thing it sticks to is itself. Mike WM4B On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 2:53 PM , Jacob Suter wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices. However, I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the same of splicing tape, then again of 88). Overlap each successive wrap about 50%. Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP. You want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in under the overlapping wraps. Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards. For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969. For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4 tapes to help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to the smaller connector. Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1 and larger widths. Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often found in 1 and 1-1/2 widths. If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy. This is known as a courtesy wrap, and anyone who's had to cut open a connector junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that... --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Raker Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterjsu...@intrastar.net wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.78/2347 - Release Date: 09/10/09 05:50:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Another trick I learned is to make 2 wraps with the adhesive in (on the work) then fold it over and make your wraps with the adhesive out as your first layer before putting the mastic/butyl tape down. This will keep the adhesive from getting all over the work, especially when wrapping coax connectors. Another suggestion is a squirt of silicone lube to keep the adhesive from sticking where you don't want it. I love the extra-wide 33+ tape. I keep a roll hidden in my toolbox for those 7/8 to N transitions... I also have a couple of cans of ScotchKote hidden from the CARB guys, who would confiscate it if they had a chance. That stuff is so full of VOCs it's illegal, but it's the absolute best thing as that last step in waterproofing a connection that's going to be hundreds of feet up on a tower. -- John Smokey Behr Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852 List Owner x10, Moderator x9 CalEMA 51-507 http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr - Original Message From: Jeff DePolo j...@broadsci.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 12:52:39 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices. However, I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the same of splicing tape, then again of 88). Overlap each successive wrap about 50%. Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP. You want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in under the overlapping wraps. Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards. For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969. For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4 tapes to help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to the smaller connector. Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1 and larger widths. Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often found in 1 and 1-1/2 widths. If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy. This is known as a courtesy wrap, and anyone who's had to cut open a connector junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that... --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Raker Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterwrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
In my previous post on this topic, I neglected to identify Linerless Splicing Tape as Scotch 130C. Here's more info on this great stuff: http://tinyurl.com/q6s9xz Scotch 130C and Super 88 tapes are available in several widths. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 4:51 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. Scotch does make a Linerless Splicing Tape which is self-vulcanizing rubber, and is great for making a cable splice waterproof. You stretch it as you wind it onto the splice, and it sticks to itself. Cover that layer with Super 88 tape, and you never need to worry about water getting into that splice. If you can't find these tapes at Home Depot or similar home-improvement stores, try a commercial electrical supply house. If that's not convenient, go to 3M's online store and buy any Scotch product made. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of hitekgearhead Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 3:47 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. Scotch does make a Linerless Splicing Tape which is self-vulcanizing rubber, and is great for making a cable splice waterproof. You stretch it as you wind it onto the splice, and it sticks to itself. Cover that layer with Super 88 tape, and you never need to worry about water getting into that splice. If you can't find these tapes at Home Depot or similar home-improvement stores, try a commercial electrical supply house. If that's not convenient, go to 3M's online store and buy any Scotch product made. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hitekgearhead Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 3:47 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
I worked as a licensed apprentice electrician a few years ago and used Super 33, Super 88, Temflex 1710 (regular and MSHA approved), Scotch 35 (for color coding). I really like the 88 (it is thicker than 33, however, more expensive). 1710 is not too bad, it has the same thickness as 33, and cheaper. Are you referring to the white glass cloth tape? I know that is used where there are high temperatures (Scotch 27 good to 266 degrees F). There is a thick rubber tape (Scotch 130C, good thru 69kV) that is used for sealing connections in wet areas (I worked a few months in 2006 at an underground coalmine with my uncle here in Eastern Oklahoma and that works really well). I try to keep some of each on hand just in case I need them. Terry, KM5UQ From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 5:47:13 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
