RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820 info needed
Here is how I have my CAT-300 connected via the 15-pin accessory plug: 1Hook Switch Must be grounded for unit to transmit 2TX Mod. input ground 3Direct Modulation Input This is where your CTCSS and/or DCS output from your controller would go. (SUB TONE) 4RX Discriminator output This is the raw receiver carrier, this is before squelch 5TX Modulation input Transmit audio out of the controller 6Speaker ground 7Switched B+ 8PTT 9Speaker Input This ties to pin 12 to use internal speaker 10De-Emphasis output Squelched RX audioDO NOT USE 11GROUND 12Speaker outputRX audio controlled by volume control 13COR output I believe this is an active low 14NC 15NC ALSO: Remove/Disconnect the internal signaling unit. On CN6 of the repeater (or CN2 of the controller end of the cable) apply a jumper to pins 2&3, 8&9, 10&11. If the external controller is wired CORRECTLY to the 15 pin accessory plug, it WILL work properly. NEVER use the internal controller with an external controller. You are asking for problems. 73 de Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Mike Morris WA6ILQ At 08:41 PM 04/23/08, you wrote: >--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Give me a couple of days to dig up my notes, Frank... I interfaced a > > CAT-300 to a TKR-820. (You DID meant to write TRK, not KTR, correct?) The > > internal controller MUST be disconnected and some of the lines jumpered to > > get it to work properly. > > > > Mark - N9WYS > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Fran > > > > Im building a Kenwood KTR-820 repeater useing the > > Arcom RC-210 controller. I'm in the process of wiring > > a Comspec Tone board for my CTCSS PL tones. Any help > > would be appreciated. > > > > I tried to use the internal controller for my PL tones > > but when I plug the internal controller plug back I > > lose COS control on the Arcom. > > > > Frank > > >Thanks, >Yes it is a TKR-820 Kenwood, I jumpered on connector CN1 off the >internal controller jumping out pins 2-3, 8-9 and 10-11. > >I have a Com-Spec TS64 that I'm working on wiring to the accy plug on >the 820. > >Frank >Thanks for your help!!! >KB2AYS Here are my notes on a TS-64: >Red wire is + DC power in > >Black is ground > >The green wire is the AUDIO INPUT. Hook this to the receiver discriminator. > >Ground the violet HANGUP wire or it will stay in "pass the audio" mode >all the time. This is the biggest single error in connecting on the >TS64 - if it is acting like it's dead right out of the box (i.e. not >decoding) make sure that the hang-up lead (the purple wire) is grounded. > >Use the white MUTE wire for decode logic output. By default it uses >open collector active high signalling (i.e. this signal will go high >for decode), but it needs a resistor from this pin to a voltage source >to do it. If you need active low install jumper JP7 to cause the >signal to go to ground on decode. > >The yellow wire is the ENCODE OUT. This is the audio that is run to >the transmitter modulator. > >The orange wire is the PTT input. Ground this to switch the tone >encoder on. When ground is removed the encoder phase is >shifted (i.e. reverse burst), and the encoder stops 160ms later. > >The gray wire is the PTT OUT. This signal goes low when the orange >wire is grounded and stays low for the duration of the grounded input >plus the reverse burst timing. In normal mobile radio use the PTT lead >from the microphone would be disconnected from the radio and be >connected to the orange wire, and the grey wire be connected to the >point in the radio where the microphone PTT lead was. > >The blue wire is the FILTERED AUDIO OUT. The path from the green wire >(in) and the blue wire (out) has a high pass / low cut audio filter in >line, designed to remove the subaudible tone from the user audio. This >is an installers choice - You can feed the blue wire back into the >receve audio connection (i.e. cut a trace and have the source go to >green and the destination go to blue). This type of radio surgery is very >radio dependent. Many radios have a high pass filter in them from the >factory and in that case you can simply tape off the blue wire and ignore it. Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820 info needed
At 08:41 PM 04/23/08, you wrote: >--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Give me a couple of days to dig up my notes, Frank... I interfaced >a > > CAT-300 to a TKR-820. (You DID meant to write TRK, not KTR, >correct?) The > > internal controller MUST be disconnected and some of the lines >jumpered to > > get it to work properly. > > > > Mark - N9WYS > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Fran > > > > Im building a Kenwood KTR-820 repeater useing the > > Arcom RC-210 controller. I'm in the process of wiring > > a Comspec Tone board for my CTCSS PL tones. Any help > > would be appreciated. > > > > I tried to use the internal controller for my PL tones > > but when I plug the internal controller plug back I > > lose COS control on the Arcom. > > > > Frank > > >Thanks, >Yes it is a TKR-820 Kenwood, I jumpered on connector CN1 off the >internal controller jumping out pins 2-3, 8-9 and 10-11. > >I have a Com-Spec TS64 that I'm working on wiring to the accy plug on >the 820. > >Frank >Thanks for your help!!! >KB2AYS Here are my notes on a TS-64: >Red wire is + DC power in > >Black is ground > >The green wire is the AUDIO INPUT. Hook this to the receiver discriminator. > >Ground the violet HANGUP wire or it will stay in "pass the audio" mode >all the time. This is the biggest single error in connecting on the >TS64 - if it is acting like it's dead right out of the box (i.e. not >decoding) make sure that the hang-up lead (the purple wire) is grounded. > >Use the white MUTE wire for decode logic output. By default it uses >open collector active high signalling (i.e. this signal will go high >for decode), but it needs a resistor from this pin to a voltage source >to do it. If you need active low install jumper JP7 to cause the >signal to go to ground on decode. > >The yellow wire is the ENCODE OUT. This is the audio that is run to >the transmitter modulator. > >The orange wire is the PTT input. Ground this to switch the tone >encoder on. When ground is removed the encoder phase is >shifted (i.e. reverse burst), and the encoder stops 160ms later. > >The gray wire is the PTT OUT. This signal goes low when the orange >wire is grounded and stays low for the duration of the grounded input >plus the reverse burst timing. In normal mobile radio use the PTT lead >from the microphone would be disconnected from the radio and be >connected to the orange wire, and the grey wire be connected to the >point in the radio where the microphone PTT lead was. > >The blue wire is the FILTERED AUDIO OUT. The path from the green wire >(in) and the blue wire (out) has a high pass / low cut audio filter in >line, designed to remove the subaudible tone from the user audio. This >is an installers choice - You can feed the blue wire back into the >receve audio connection (i.e. cut a trace and have the source go to >green and the destination go to blue). This type of radio surgery is very >radio dependent. Many radios have a high pass filter in them from the >factory and in that case you can simply tape off the blue wire and ignore it. Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Hi Skipp skipp025 wrote: >ps: The rear panel molex connectors and required >pins are common to find... > Do you have a part # for the plug and the male pins? What do you sell them for? John -- John Mc Hugh, K4AG Coordinator for Amateur Radio National Hurricane Center, WX4NHC Home page:- http://www.wx4nhc.org Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Paul Finch wrote: > Hello, > > The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it ever > did. I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking. If it really is a TKR and not a TKB, then yes it had the controller board. > Did Kenwood have a option of no controller? Be interesting to find out. No. > By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the > controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid. That area > where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small > controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not have. Well, that might be true now, but it wasn't when those repeaters were most popular about 10-15 years ago. Not that still did encode/decode. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
skipp025 wrote: > Re: Kenwood TKR 820 > > I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them > on Ebay for about $50 each. If you don't think you'll > ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run > an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector. > > cheers, > skipp Takes all kinds don't it? What about when the tone panel goes bad? Oh well... -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
DCFlux, I have plenty of ICS controllers as well as Comm Spec CTCSS boards but as I said it's set up for LTR, I may use it that way on my commercial tower. If there is a squelch gate you don't really need anything else. The NHRC squelch board may be faster but not that much. Thanks anyway, Paul -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DCFluX Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820 An NHRC-2 or NHRC-4 may fit there, but you should measure it to make sure. Plus you need a way to derive COS, so you may want to look at the NHRC squelch board or go with a Comspec PL board, or combonation of both. On 3/13/06, Paul Finch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello, > > The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it ever > did. I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking. > > Did Kenwood have a option of no controller? Be interesting to find out. > > By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the > controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid. That area > where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small > controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not have. > > Have a little tolerance guys. There is always someone smarter than we/you > are. > > Paul > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025 > Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820 > > > Re: Kenwood TKR 820 > > I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them > on Ebay for about $50 each. If you don't think you'll > ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run > an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector. > > cheers, > skipp > > > > "Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board > > out? You don't even need to open that section to > > interface a controller...worst case you might pull > > the tone chip. Maybe. > > sheesh... > > -- > > Jim Barbour > > WD8CHL > > > > > > > skipp025 wrote: > > > Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, > > > but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some > > > buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is > > > missing the repeater controller board. > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
An NHRC-2 or NHRC-4 may fit there, but you should measure it to make sure. Plus you need a way to derive COS, so you may want to look at the NHRC squelch board or go with a Comspec PL board, or combonation of both. On 3/13/06, Paul Finch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello, > > The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it ever > did. I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking. > > Did Kenwood have a option of no controller? Be interesting to find out. > > By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the > controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid. That area > where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small > controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not have. > > Have a little tolerance guys. There is always someone smarter than we/you > are. > > Paul > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025 > Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820 > > > Re: Kenwood TKR 820 > > I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them > on Ebay for about $50 each. If you don't think you'll > ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run > an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector. > > cheers, > skipp > > > > "Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board > > out? You don't even need to open that section to > > interface a controller...worst case you might pull > > the tone chip. Maybe. > > sheesh... > > -- > > Jim Barbour > > WD8CHL > > > > > > > skipp025 wrote: > > > Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, > > > but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some > > > buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is > > > missing the repeater controller board. > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
DCFluX wrote: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/message/57016 > Thanks, I overlooked that one John, K4AG Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/message/57016 On 3/13/06, John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > DCFluX wrote: > > >It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel > >and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the > >threads from about 5 months ago. > > > > I checked the archives back to 1999 and couldn't find this. I'd be > interested to findout more about it if you can help me > > John > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Hello, The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it ever did. I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking. Did Kenwood have a option of no controller? Be interesting to find out. By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid. That area where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not have. Have a little tolerance guys. There is always someone smarter than we/you are. Paul -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820 Re: Kenwood TKR 820 I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them on Ebay for about $50 each. If you don't think you'll ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector. cheers, skipp > "Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board > out? You don't even need to open that section to > interface a controller...worst case you might pull > the tone chip. Maybe. > sheesh... > -- > Jim Barbour > WD8CHL > > > > skipp025 wrote: > > Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, > > but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some > > buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is > > missing the repeater controller board. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
DCFluX wrote: >It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel >and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the >threads from about 5 months ago. > I checked the archives back to 1999 and couldn't find this. I'd be interested to findout more about it if you can help me John Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
>and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... hehehe I think that was said best in a Stevan Segal movie. Under Seige Pt.2 The TKR-820 will just sit there like a dumb shit until the magic tone is played for it on the channel that the receiver is tuned to. Pull out the 8 pin EEProm that is on the controller board, I think it is 94C56 , this will force the receiver into carrier access. Then one of the pots on the controller board is squelch, tweak it untill the repeater starts transmitting. Bust out your radio shack frequency counter or a modified handheld and count it up to figure out what it is transmitting on. Then try to set your radio for a common split, with + and - 5, 3, 2.5 or 1.5 and see which one brings it up. BTW, the controller is not the board behind the front panel, it is the small almost 3X5" board that sits in a tray above the radio chassis. Although the channels are set by the front panel board for what ever reason. It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the threads from about 5 months ago. Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Sorry - I meant "Krik G"..Mark Tomany <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeater has an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... hehehe Mark - N9WYS YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Sorry - I meant "Kirk G"..Mark Tomany <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeater has an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... hehehe Mark - N9WYS YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeater has an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... hehehe Mark - N9WYS"Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: skipp025 wrote:> Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, > but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some > buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is > missing the repeater controller board. Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board out? You don't even need to open that section to interface a controller...worst case you might pull the tone chip. Maybe.sheesh...-- Jim BarbourWD8CHL YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
skipp025 wrote: > Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, > but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some > buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is > missing the repeater controller board. Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board out? You don't even need to open that section to interface a controller...worst case you might pull the tone chip. Maybe. sheesh... -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
Skipp, Thanks for the response. I'd like to pick your brain on this. I havejust finished a GE MastrII Exec VHF conversion and I've been in the comm field for 30 years so I have some experience (just to let you know I'm not a novice) Yes, the cavities are external, they are a 4 can Sinclair I got a response from another guy who had the manual on his site and was just now able to download it. So now I have to read it to figure out how it should work But just to get me going I'd like to ask you the following I turned the unit on and get lights. I was not able to get any audio from it. The busy light came on when I adjusted the squelch. I'm not sure what freq it is on and since I didn't have the pinout for the mike socket I was not able to key it up and measure the freq. ( I now have the pinout and will try to transmit tomorrow) The molex on the back has no mating plug in it, according to your email it should have one to make it work or give out audio. Which pins do I jumper? I took the top cover off and saw a flat 4 pin connector flush with the top of the front panel and to the left of center, what is it? What quick checks can I do? It looks like pin 8 on the molex is PTT, how is the pin numbered? What does the controller look like and where in the radio would it be located? Would it be needed if an external ham controller was used like one from NHRC? If it has been removed would the unit still repeat? Thanks for your offer to help BTW I'm in Miami John -- John Mc Hugh, K4AG Coordinator for Amateur Radio National Hurricane Center, WX4NHC Home page:- http://www.wx4nhc.org Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820
Pete, That is some damn fine information there. I only wish I had it last night. About the only thing that is different in the 820 is the divde radio is .0125 instead of .005Currently I am using a program called pony prog which the serial interface I am using is similar to the one shown on this website, I will redo the schematic with one that is guarenteed to work though and doesn't need any fancy regulators. Also I am using some Hex editor I found on google, It is like the first link when you type in hex editor. It may be possible to add the missing channel controls and jumper the control chip from repeater to base mode so then the repeater could QSY, not much say 100kHz to allow the duplexer to function but more importantly change PL tones remotely to allow Carrier access or different CTCSS tones. I think the TKR-850 series does this already but that may be a pretty sweet mod for the x20 series. On 12/14/05, n2mci <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Matt, if you are editing the EEproms by hand, here's a linkto Mijo S51KQ's TK/R-720 web page.. I helped him with creating the EEprom (93C46) images.. See:http://lea.hamradio.si/~s51kq/temp/_projects_/TKR720_modification/On the TKR/B radios, the file saved by KPG21D contains the data for the Freq. and CTCSS EEprom.. The 1st half of the file is theimage for the Freq. EEprom and the 2nd half of the KPG21D fileis the Image of the CTCSS EEprom file..I realize binary file editing to not for everyone, but it's not as hard as everyone makes it out to be either..I also want to create a 'EZ-Prog' type exe that will create thevarious file images, (TKb/r freq. & CTCSS, TK620/720/820/710/810mobiles with and without the scan board (TK-x20's only)), from the file saved by KPG21D..-73, Pete N2MCI YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820
skipp025 wrote: > Hi Jim, > > There was a debate about the reverse being "a > true Motorola type Reverse-Burst". It only seemed > to matter if you were running the true reverse > burst decoder with the reed stall Motorola > parameters values. > > Never mattered to me much... the goal was to > reduce or elminate the users tx un-key static > crash. > > I got tired of fighting different reverse phase > formal formats for so many different radios & > receivers. I hated that too. I always figured that it should be 180 degrees. If it worked with that, good. If not, oh well, live with it. > > Extending out the rptr tx hang time without a > sub tone has been a "poor mans" way to deal with > no reverse burst function. I put in one of the > original comm spec RB-1 modules (diagram avail > on the RB web site) and some radio decoders liked > it... some didn't. So I added the extended no > sub tone time and everyone is for the most part > happy. How much of delay did that add, btw? Normally I would think no more then about a half second would do for most radios...except some of the cheapies, Maxon, Tekk, Tait, Yaesu, etc. > > I use the molex jack on the back for external > controllers and tone panels... the hook-up is different > for each. As a simple ID'er, I've used the Autocode > module many times. It's cheap and an easy board > to add... no other parts are required other than > the molex plug & pins. > > The first time you do any tkr repeater connection... > you quickly learn to scratch your head in wonder. > > cheers, > skipp You mean like having to put a jumper from pin 1 to ground for the PTT on the back to work? ;c) -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820
DCFluX wrote: > I have not gotten the internal controller to activate the repeater, I am > suspecting that it is waiting for a DQT code (Digital PL) to activate. If you pull the tone chip, it should repeat CSQ. Make sure the rpt button on the front is pushed in! > > I tweaked the VCO's for 3 volts not knowing any better, I will readjust them > tonight. > > I built a simple interface for the serial EEPROM out of a few resistors and > zener diodes. At the moment it is just hard wired to some vias I saw coming > from the programming plug. I will rebuild my interface tonight to have a 8 > pin socket and +5 volt regulator so the chips can be programed out side the > rig and see whats in the other chip. > > Looking at the schematic, I have no idea how they are getting data over to > the EEPROM on the signalling board, there apears to be no connections to > the programming plug. You're right-there isn't. The tone chip is programmed by removing it and plugging it into the programmer, either the KPT-20 or -50. And that's the only info it has is the 8 encode/decode tones/codes. > Also there is an awful lot of fire power on that > board just for the CTCSS encode and decode, you would think they would have > put a CW IDer in there. You forget-this is pre-1990 vintage equipment. It only looks like there is a lot of hp! It is the whole controller though. It does repeat audio gating, hang time, TOT, as well as encode/decode. Oh yeah, the repeat squelch control is on that board too. The front panel sq control has no effect on repeat. I guess there wasn't much of a call for an internal ID at the time. I can't think of any other commercially-made desktop repeater that had an ID'er built-in from that vintage, either. To get that, you had to go to an MSF-5000 or MastrIIe/MastrIII size box. In fact, most of the desktop repeaters of that vintage were crystal controlled! Looks like there is room enough left over on the > tray for a smaller controller such as the NHRC-Micro and TCX-12. Yup, most likely. I know putting something like an ID-8 in was a snap. Almost enought room for 2 of 'em, not that there's a reason to have two... > > The company that had it previous didn't take advantage of the sweet mounting > method for the duplexer and it was on the top cover with double sided > stickey tape. $3 at a hardware store will yield a brass strip and sheet > metal screws to take care of the mecahnics, and some double shielded coax > and BNC connectors should cure the RF side. Wow...how revolting. And the repeater CAME with hardware to mount a duplexer inside. The holes are even tapped already! -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820
I have not gotten the internal controller to activate the repeater, I am suspecting that it is waiting for a DQT code (Digital PL) to activate. I tweaked the VCO's for 3 volts not knowing any better, I will readjust them tonight. I built a simple interface for the serial EEPROM out of a few resistors and zener diodes. At the moment it is just hard wired to some vias I saw coming from the programming plug. I will rebuild my interface tonight to have a 8 pin socket and +5 volt regulator so the chips can be programed out side the rig and see whats in the other chip. Looking at the schematic, I have no idea how they are getting data over to the EEPROM on the signalling board, there apears to be no connections to the programming plug. Also there is an awful lot of fire power on that board just for the CTCSS encode and decode, you would think they would have put a CW IDer in there. Looks like there is room enough left over on the tray for a smaller controller such as the NHRC-Micro and TCX-12. The company that had it previous didn't take advantage of the sweet mounting method for the duplexer and it was on the top cover with double sided stickey tape. $3 at a hardware store will yield a brass strip and sheet metal screws to take care of the mecahnics, and some double shielded coax and BNC connectors should cure the RF side. On 12/14/05, Jim B. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: skipp025 wrote:> The factory repeater board doesn't generate true> reverse burst. Like other mfgrs did... the tone is> often shut off before the transmitter drops and the> detector tries to close the audio of before the tx > drops.Hmmm-all the ones we had at the shop I used to work at did true RB. Icould see the phase shift in the lissajous (sp?) on the servicemonitor...the only problem I ever ran into was that the time delay they used was a bit short for some radios. Same problem with the mobiles ofthat vintage (early 90's).Yes, they make GREAT ham repeaters, with only the need to add a simpleID'er.All of the external controller mods I did were done at the accessory jack on the back. And they were always done in such a way that you couldjust unplug the cable from the back, hit the button on the front, andrun local. Worst case (with tone panels), I would have to open the top and plug the CTCSS EEPROM back in. (I would glue a piece of anti-statfoam on the chassis next to the board and stick the chip there,programmed up and ready to go.)--Jim BarbourWD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820
skipp025 wrote: > The factory repeater board doesn't generate true > reverse burst. Like other mfgrs did... the tone is > often shut off before the transmitter drops and the > detector tries to close the audio of before the tx > drops. Hmmm-all the ones we had at the shop I used to work at did true RB. I could see the phase shift in the lissajous (sp?) on the service monitor...the only problem I ever ran into was that the time delay they used was a bit short for some radios. Same problem with the mobiles of that vintage (early 90's). Yes, they make GREAT ham repeaters, with only the need to add a simple ID'er. All of the external controller mods I did were done at the accessory jack on the back. And they were always done in such a way that you could just unplug the cable from the back, hit the button on the front, and run local. Worst case (with tone panels), I would have to open the top and plug the CTCSS EEPROM back in. (I would glue a piece of anti-stat foam on the chassis next to the board and stick the chip there, programmed up and ready to go.) -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820 Follow-up
My sincerest apologies to the list - I meant this to be a private message. I guess I need to watch more carefully before I hit the SEND button, eh? :) Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: skipp025 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 11:51 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR-820 Follow-up Hi Mark, Email me off the group and I'll update you. thanks skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com www.radiowrench.com Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
