SD> Map sensor wire identification
Hi all. I'm trying to identify the wiring on this map sensor out of a turbo dodge: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/243105_278_full.jpg Can you tell me which wire is which? Thanks. -J ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Map sensor wire identification
>From www.minimopar.net: The center wire is the signal output, which is either white (WT) or dark green with a red stripe (DG/RD*). The other two wires are 5V and ground. You also need to find the ground wire, which is either black (BK) or black with a light blue stripe (BK/LB*). On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 12:42:13 -0600, Jason Arroyo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi all. > > I'm trying to identify the wiring on this map sensor out of a turbo > dodge: > > http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/243105_278_full.jpg > > Can you tell me which wire is which? Thanks. > > -J ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts
They are probably M8 x 1.25. You will want to use as high of a grade of nut as possible. Also, if you can get a "tall" nut, such as a machine set-up nut, that would be the best bet. Also, while you're at it, don't forget to use some high temp, anti-seize compound. Howard Saxon Senior Designer Transmission Systems Borg Warner - PTC 248-754-0616 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts
They are a special thread I would buy some from the dodge dealer. 10X 1.25 fit but they will fall off Dean Stillie 82 Rampage [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1.78 60' 91 Sundance [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "Saxon, Howard (PTC - Auburn Hills)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Sdml (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 2:07 PM Subject: Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts > They are probably M8 x 1.25. You will want to use as high of a grade of nut > as possible. Also, if you can get a "tall" nut, such as a machine set-up > nut, that would be the best bet. Also, while you're at it, don't forget to > use some high temp, anti-seize compound. > > Howard Saxon > Senior Designer > Transmission Systems > Borg Warner - PTC > 248-754-0616 > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts
10mm x 1.5. Factory nuts take a 15mm wrench, store bought stainless / regular steel usually 17mm. I've used stainless on the K-car with success. Just about everything on our engines are 6mm x 1.25? (ex. valve cover), 8mm x 1.25, 10mm x 1.5, or 12mm x 1.75. Would you believe rear Shelby Z caliper pin holes are 9mm x 1.25? And I thought I'd never use a 9mm tap... Jeff Chojnacki http://home.wi.rr.com/jpcturbo '87 Lebaron 2.2 T2 [EMAIL PROTECTED] '88 Daytona Shelby Z '88 Caravan TBI Waukesha, WI. Member ExtremePSI, SDAC - Original Message - From: "Dean Stillie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Saxon, Howard (PTC - Auburn Hills)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Sdml (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 4:48 PM Subject: Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts > They are a special thread I would buy some from the dodge dealer. 10X 1.25 > fit but they will fall off > > Dean Stillie > 82 Rampage > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > 1.78 60' > 91 Sundance > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - Original Message - > From: "Saxon, Howard (PTC - Auburn Hills)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Sdml (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 2:07 PM > Subject: Re: SD> Turbo to Manifold Nuts > > > > They are probably M8 x 1.25. You will want to use as high of a grade of > nut > > as possible. Also, if you can get a "tall" nut, such as a machine set-up > > nut, that would be the best bet. Also, while you're at it, don't forget > to > > use some high temp, anti-seize compound. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> (UPDATE) L body 2 door Full A pillar trim dual gauge pod replacment
Update 11-23-04 Just got an email from Lo-tek about the pricing.. Good news, bad news.. read the copy/paste below - Chris: The trim piece has been reviewed and priced. There are a couple things that need addressed. First, about 8" of the "leg" that goes below the dash cannot be reproduced. Second, the undercut (the part that curves underneath) cannot be reproduced. The rough mock-up will show you the changes. The pricing for a double will be $44.99 unpainted and $52.98 painted. Shipping in USA is $5.99 and international(Canada included) is $11.99 We will get the mock-up out to you this week. Regards, Lo-tek, Inc. IMPORTANT: PLEASE INCLUDE ALL PRIOR EMAILS WHEN RESPONDING --snip-- Im not too thrilled with their description of what the trim piece will look like.. Also, I finally saw a 2 door L body in the local yard.. So I snagged another stock trim piece sence my stock one was damaged in the mail.. This way when the prototype comes in, I can take pictures compaiting the two.. After posting pictures I will be placing a voting poll on turbododge.com on this whether or not the majority likes the prototype and if we should go any further with this.. remember there will be an exposed section from the A pillar trim to the kick panel.. Im not likin this too much, but I think could mod mine easily using my stock trim piece.. Another alternative is to have a 2 pod add on that fits much better than the FWD performance pods possibly? maybe that one would be easier to mod and mold into a 1 piece? Anyone know where FWD has their made? Im not sure, just kickin out some ideas.. We'll see what happens with this.. For updates, please bookmark the link below my signature.. thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Screaching Sound
Hoping someone has an idea what this could be: 1987 Daytona Pacifica on cold mornings during the first 20 minutes of driving on highway speeds around 75 w/ 3000 rpms. Mysterious screaching sound lasts for a few to 15 seconds. Put the car in neutral, rev the engine, sound goes away after a few seconds. This only happens on cold mornings during the first 20 minutes of driving, weather a little warmer or rpms kept @ 2500 (60 mph) and the sound never happens. It is obviously a belt or something associated w/ the belts (headlights will dim while sound is going off ) which leads me to believe it is a belt or the alternator. Voltage gauge reads normal with or without the sound. If it isn't the alternator would changing the belts help??? Ones on car are relatively new and seem in good shape. Thanks, Keith ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Screaching Sound
replace or retention all belts.. go from there... Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge 84 Rampage - _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) (or) _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) -=GROUP BUY=- *CUSTOM FULL TRIM REPLACEMENT A PILLAR GAUGE PANELS* L body 2 door car & truck (ie; Charger, Rampage body styles, ect.) *1979 - 1987* FULL A pillar trim replacement w/integrated dual 2-1/16" gauge housing pods _http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503&postcount=9_ (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503&postcount=9) Contact me privately @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) if interested... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Brake Problem
I have a major problem with my 85 Omni GLH-Turbos brakes. You can pump them up and have brakes but if you wait a little and hit the breaks it almost goes to the floor. Definatly have a problem somewhere. It has my dad is out of reasons why they don't work. We tore the back breaks apart and cleaned them. From the symptoms of my problem my dad keeps thinking its the master cylinder but after puting 3 of them on and still the same problem were not sure what the problem is. We bled the breaks alot with no improvement. Two of the master cylinders i know worked because i just ripped them off cars we have. We also cleaned out the block that the fluid goes into before all the breaks thinking if might be acting this way from dirt. If anyone knows what could be wrong i would greatly appreciate it. I hope the breaks will work after we cleaned all those parts. If not I have no idea what is wrong. Hopefully you guys can help me out. Brandon ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Brake Problem
In a message dated 11/23/2004 8:09:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a major problem with my 85 Omni GLH-Turbos brakes. You can pump them up and have brakes but if you wait a little and hit the breaks it almost goes to the floor. Definatly have a problem somewhere. It has my dad is out of reasons why they don't work. We tore the back breaks apart and cleaned them. From the symptoms of my problem my dad keeps thinking its the master cylinder but after puting 3 of them on and still the same problem were not sure what the problem is. We bled the breaks alot with no improvement. Two of the master cylinders i know worked because i just ripped them off cars we have. We also cleaned out the block that the fluid goes into before all the breaks thinking if might be acting this way from dirt. If anyone knows what could be wrong i would greatly appreciate it. I hope the breaks will work after we cleaned all those parts. If not I have no idea what is wrong. Hopefully you guys can help me out. Brandon Look at the inside of the rear drums in the back.. anything leaking? if so its brake cylinder time.. If no leaks are visable from the backside of the drum..try poppin off a wheel and pullin the drum to see them directly.. Also check the bleeder screws.. Ive heard storys.. had your brakes done recentally? later Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge 84 Rampage - _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) (or) _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) -=GROUP BUY=- *CUSTOM FULL TRIM REPLACEMENT A PILLAR GAUGE PANELS* L body 2 door car & truck (ie; Charger, Rampage body styles, ect.) *1979 - 1987* FULL A pillar trim replacement w/integrated dual 2-1/16" gauge housing pods _http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503&postcount=9_ (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503&postcount=9) Contact me privately @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) if interested... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> fiberglass hood
Norman porter III <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:this is to see the interest in 4 dr omni cowl hoods. As of Monday next week I will be going to the mold maker and get my pricing for these. They will be 4 inch cowl hoods. I would like to get an initial run of 10 to 15 to make this economically feasible. this would also help the pricing . the more the merrier. I do have pictures upon request. Email me @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] with interest. Thanks All NORMAN S. PORTER III OVERBOOST MOTORSPORTS "BOOST THE REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT" - Do you Yahoo!? Meet the all-new My Yahoo! Try it today! NORMAN S. PORTER III OVERBOOST MOTORSPORTS "BOOST THE REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT" - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
