SD> Dayonta CS
Grabbed the drivetrain out of a junked 89 Daytona CS once. Don't know what wheels were on it as they were gone when I got there, but I believe they had the 15x6.5" crab wheels. Car had no ground f/x, just a rear spoiler, so looked pretty base on the outside. Inside car was very base. No AC, foglights, no trip computer, no pw,pl etc.. Can't remember if it had the base AM/FM stereo, or it might even have had the stereo delete. All the performance goodies, 89 common block 2.2l intercooled T2 engine, A555 trans, 11" vented front brakes, 1.25" front swaybar, 11" vented rear disks with internal drum E-brake and the solid swaybar inside the rear axle. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> ffv fuel rail
The stainless FFV rail will work fine in a SOHC 88+ turbo motor, however yes the injectors and regulator would have to be swapped from to the correct Turbo pieces. I think we figured out once what the FFV injectors were rated at, but I can't remember what we came up with. I think the short answer was just use the right turbo injectors. If someone wanted to have a stock fuel pressure regulator made adjustable you could probably use the stainless housing from the FFV regulator for a nice final product. If you have a factory turbo car 90/91 or newer when the factory went to the quick-release style fuel lines instead of just hose clamps, the FFV rail will drop right in, braided lines and all. If the car has the older style hardlines you'll need to cut the braided lines off at the rail and clamp on regular fuel injection hose. The round piece missing on the TB side off the rail is a dampner. This dissappeared in either 90 or 91 with the introduction of sequential fire injection, as opposed to the old batch-fire style. I believe the reasoning is when you had 2 injectors firing at the same time (batch fire) it created enough of a pressure drop to require a dampner. I believe plenty of people run non-dampened rails in batch fire cars and vice versa. If one were making tons of power with big injectors on the stock hard fuel lines and rail you might want to consider keeping the dampner. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> GLH brakes, why not stage 1 SLH?
I am looking for a good recommendation for new rotors/pads for an 85 GLH Turbo, stock brakes currently. Want to see if there are slotted rotors and upgraded pads anyone can recommend? (also looking to do same with 2001 Neon R/T). Who in our circle of parts vendors is the best with brake parts? A thought since you're buying brakes anyway. A quick, cheap and easy upgrade for the brakes on a 'Shelby' spec L body is to grab the caliper adapters, calipers, and brake pads from an ~87 Daytona/Lebaron/Shadow etc. The rotors are the same as your stock GLH parts, and the caliper pistons are the same diameter so the pedal feel stays the same, however the surface area of the pads is ~20% larger than the stock GLH pads. The caliper adapters and hardware should run a few bucks from a yard, and fresh rebuilt calipers can be purchased for like $15 a piece. This is the Stage 1 SLH brake upgrade from way back in the day. I think Dempsey Bowling had a parts list and description on his site. Just found the page: http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/shelby/slhpkgs.htm It's a nice upgrade without having to change over a lot of other parts, MC, prop valve etc. Actually if anyone is interested I have a set of the correct caliper adapters, new rebuilt calipers and new Raybestos pads sitting in storage I had purchased a while ago for my GLHS. I have since decided to jump all the way up to the 11" 4 wheel vented setup when I get around to redoing the car next. Anyway if anyone is interested I'd let everything go for maybe $55 shipped? Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> new poly bushings: oval rear axle bushing
Greetings all, I never got a chance to order one and find out, however Energy Suspension, and prehaps Prothane manufacture a rear axle bushing for the PT Cruiser. If anybody's ever looked aside from the watts linkage vs. out panhard bar, the rear PT axle is VERY similar to what's under the rear of all of our non-L body FWD Mopars. And the poly rear axle bushing ES makes for the PT just happens to be oval in shape. So... anybody want to order one and find out if it'll fit the early 90's FWD Mopars? Lifted right off their site: Energy Suspension rear trailing arm bushing PT Cruiser: 5.7113 (57) I believe the bushing set is pretty cheap to purchase (I think ~$25), so if anybody tries it let me/the list know. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> poly steering rack bushings
btw: Moog makes replacement steering rack bushings for pretty much all of our cars. I 'think' they're poly. Moog makes a few different bushings in blue poly, and then some in what I think is black poly. Definitely doesn't feel like regular rubber. Anyway the Moog repalcement steering rack bushings for our cars are the black material. There are a couple different types/mounting systems used though on our cars so might be abit tricky ordering the correct one. I believe the 3 part numbers Moog has for our applications are: K7111 K7112 K7113 I believe I installed the K7113 as a direct replacement for the original rack bushing in my 91 Lebaron GTC convert, so I think that bushing should fit any 91+ R/T, GTC, IROC etc. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> addition to poly rack bushings post
Sorry, Moog K7110 might also be a replacement bushing for some of our applications as well, I think that one would fit soem earlier models. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> circle track racing
I had a friend in college who apparently circle track raced a fwd charger back in their hometown. I know he mentioned it was a n/a 2.2 and I want to say they had shaved the head and installed flat-top pistons, but not real sure about any more of the specifics. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> wheel name
Depends on what wheels you're referring to. 89-91 Lebaron GTC's had 16" standard lace wheels, and 92-94 GTC's had an optional 16" lace wheel. The 89-91 style are alot easier to find and quite often see a few sets available particularly on turbododge.com I think these came in white and grey. the 92-94 style have more of a curved spoke lace pattern than the 89-91's. I have heard Lebaron people refer to these as 'cathedral' wheels and in general they're alot rarer. These came in white, grey and gold. The golds seem to turn up most often. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> re: no pressure after filter change
First thing I would do is open up the bottom of that engine, with a plan to at minimum replace the pan and pickup. If the balance shafts are out of the motor I would try to get a pan and pickup from a commonblock 2.2l. (these can generally be found in later modem 92/93 base P bodies) and actually I'd also want to double check that the balance shaft feed hole was properly plugged. Even if the balance shafts were removed, 5 quarts of oil in a 2.5 pan w/o balance shafts should still be WAY more than sufficient to submerge the pickup. If I wanted to do it right, I might also replace the O ring at the top of the pickup tube and pull the oil pump to re-do the anaerobic sealer where the pump meets the block to make sure there are no leaks there. If you want to get some performance benefit out of all this work, you could pull the balance shafts while you're in there, portmatch the oil feed hole in the block (round) to match the oval output hole on the pump, and open up the bottom of the pickup tube. Dave Robinson ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> RE: 1990 Shelby Daytona question
ACTUALLY Barry (sir)..the 1990 Chrysler TC by Maserati had a 2.2 intercooled 16v engine not an 8v turbo II. Confused yet? Now Im confused because Ive seen those maserati TC's with a sohc 8v T2 setup under hood? 1989 Chrysler TC's were available with the 16v Intercooled 2.2, or an 8v 2.2 T2. 1990 TC's only the 16v 2.2 or the 3.0l Mitsu V6. Dave R. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
