RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's 136 amps.

2004-11-11 Thread Bryan Lugert
I forgot to mention that the 11mm hole version alternators is what is on the
1989 and up cars.
1988 and older have the 8mm hole.

-Bryan

-Original Message-

Here you are.
Factory replacement alternator for our 2.2 and 2.5's is the following
numbers
Lester Number (any place should know what that means)
13280, 13304, 13308, 13313
That is 120 amp and a direct bolt in replacement.
This alternator has an 8mm hole

To get the 136 amp you have to get Lester Number 13742
The only change you will need to make is you have to get a shim to go inside
the mounting ear.
(That part is discontinued, but I might have a guy make a few)
This alternator has an 11mm hole

The 136 Amp alternator can be found in the following vehicles:
1997-1998 Dodge SUV, TRUCKS, VANS with 3.9, 5.2,  5.9, 8.0 engines.
1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2, 5.9

- -Bryan

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's 136 amps.

2004-11-05 Thread Saxon, Howard (PTC - Auburn Hills)
I'm not sure if this helps or not but I own a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee with
the 5.2 and when I added an electric fan, the draw was so great that it
started to discharge my battery!  A friend of mine said that the viper
spec alternator is a direct bolt on and produces much more amps.  If that's
the case, then with the same spacer you mentioned, maybe a more power
alternator exists.  Any way for anyone to check?

---original
message-
Here you are.
Factory replacement alternator for our 2.2 and 2.5's is the following
numbers
Lester Number (any place should know what that means)
13280, 13304, 13308, 13313
That is 120 amp and a direct bolt in replacement.
This alternator has an 8mm hole

To get the 136 amp you have to get Lester Number 13742
The only change you will need to make is you have to get a shim to go inside
the mounting ear.
(That part is discontinued, but I might have a guy make a few)
This alternator has an 11mm hole

The 136 Amp alternator can be found in the following vehicles:
1997-1998 Dodge SUV, TRUCKS, VANS with 3.9, 5.2,  5.9, 8.0 engines.
1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2, 5.9

- -Bryan



Howard Saxon
Senior Designer
Transmission Systems
Borg Warner - PTC
248-754-0616
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-05 Thread Moparmat2000
i agree with bryan on killing your alternator when jumping off a dead 
battery. 

most people think an alternator will eventually recharge a dead battery. this 
is simply not the case, an alternator will not fully recharge a dead battery. 
most people get this thinking from when cars used generators and not 
alternators. a generator uses permanent magnets in it and when rotated will produce an 
electrical charge all by itself (self exciting). a car with a dead battery 
and a generator for a charging device when jumpered off will eventually recharge 
a dead battery. these old cars that used generators also had heavy duty 
mechanical point type voltage regulators with vibrating contactors, and usually had 
tungsten or platinum irridium contacts.

an alternator on the other hand requires some sort of initial electrical 
charge or stimulus running thru the coil to get it to start working. the 
alternators in our cars use a solid state full wave rectifier , with a solid state 
voltage regulator set up in them. these alternators are designed to top off a good 
battery after you start your car, come on line and off line periodically as 
your electrical load increases or decreases during driving. your solid state 
regulator in the unit will do this as the battery voltage drops below a certain 
pre determined level. a solid state regulator is not designed to run 
continuously. which is what it would be doing if you jumpered off a TD or any other 
alternator equipped car with a dead battery. 

the regulator would see the battery as having mebbe a residual 9V and would 
keep its solid state contactor closed to try to get the battery to a state of 
13.5V you can see that this would burn it out. if not the first time you do it 
eventually it will burn out from this type of abuse.

an alternator is designed to only maintain a 13.5V charge in a battery, top 
the battery off after you start your car, and maintain it in a topped off 
condition while you are driving and using your accessories.

my wife used to own a nissan sentra, we were coming back to abilene texas 
from little rock arkansas on a sunday afternoon and the battery lost one of its 
cells about 100 miles from home. the alternators solid state regulator kept its 
contacts closed trying to fill the wounded battery up. by the time we got 
home i had to put in a new battery and a new alternator.

hope this helps
mat

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-05 Thread amoparx
I found out the hard way about jumping cars about 12 years ago.  
My ex-wife lost her timing belt in her Shelby Daytona on her way home from work.  She 
said the car just died at an intersection and killed the battery trying to restart it. 
 I went to help.  I tried jumping her for quite a while with my Shelby Charger before 
I realized the belt was gone.  Well that was the last time my car charged on it's own. 
 I had blown the regulator.  That meant I had to get a new power module.  Since this 
was before this great thing called the Internet and the car was hard to find used 
parts for, I had to get that new.  $144.00 back then, I believe.  I kept charging the 
car before and after work for a couple months just to keep it going.  I don't know if 
I lost my alternator right from the start, but after I put in the PM, I discovered I 
needed that too.  Now days, when I believe I have a low battery,  I use a battery 
charger so I don't take any chances.

  
Bob Doherty 
Coon Rapids, MN. 

90 Daytona Shelby VNT 
90 Daytona Shelby TI 
89 Daytona Shelby TII 
89 LeBaron GTC Convert TII 
86 Shelby Charger TI 
68 AMC AMX #5816 (Only Numbered 
Car) 

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's 136 amps.

2004-11-04 Thread Bryan Lugert
Here you are.
Factory replacement alternator for our 2.2 and 2.5's is the following
numbers
Lester Number (any place should know what that means)
13280, 13304, 13308, 13313
That is 120 amp and a direct bolt in replacement.
This alternator has an 8mm hole

To get the 136 amp you have to get Lester Number 13742
The only change you will need to make is you have to get a shim to go inside
the mounting ear.
(That part is discontinued, but I might have a guy make a few)
This alternator has an 11mm hole

The 136 Amp alternator can be found in the following vehicles:
1997-1998 Dodge SUV, TRUCKS, VANS with 3.9, 5.2,  5.9, 8.0 engines.
1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2, 5.9

-Bryan


-Original Message-

136 amp?  I will get all the correct information tomorrow.
It involves getting a 136 amp alt from another Dodge application and then
adding a spacer to the mounting ear. I believe the mounting ear an our cars
is 8mm and the one that I know works is 11mm.  Anyway, I can get those
spacers really cheap.

-Bryan

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Re: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-03 Thread Paul T. Standaert
Think of it this way--what is there to go wrong inside of these things?  Armature 
shorting out?  Field coil shorting/breaking?  Excessive commutator wear?  All are 
unlikely to happen.  It seems to me that the only thing that commonly fails in our 
alternators is bearings and brushes, both which are easily serviceable by the home 
mechanic at a cost of about $60.  Leaves, bees, etc like to get sucked into these 
alternators via the fan and cause problems, too.  Does anyone know what went wrong in 
the ones they've had go bad?

Most alternators kick the can because of voltage regulator failures, usually caused by 
heat..  We have an external regulator (power module or SMEC/SBEC).

NAPA, along with many others, sell these things with lifetime warranties.


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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-03 Thread Bryan Lugert
Sounds like you are talkling about a starter.

The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring, Bearings,
Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases)

In the Chrysler Alternators the main thing that goes out is the brushes.
Very cheap to buy.
You could get a set of brushes and bearings for about $22.00

In the Nippendenso alternators it is usually the rectifier and brushes.
(bearings while you are there)
You are looking at about $44-55.00 for those three things.

If you are having a hard time locating the parts, I have them in stock at
all times.
Just would need the part # of the alternator to be sure you get the correct
parts.

If I was replacing the alternator in any of our cars I would go with the
Nippendenso because it puts out 120 amps, sure it costs a little more, but
worth it.

There is also an option to get 136 amp alternator to work with out
applications, just takes one small part. :)

-Bryan

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T. Standaert

Think of it this way--what is there to go wrong inside of these things?
Armature shorting out?  Field coil shorting/breaking?  Excessive commutator
wear?  All are unlikely to happen.  It seems to me that the only thing that
commonly fails in our alternators is bearings and brushes, both which are
easily serviceable by the home mechanic at a cost of about $60.  Leaves,
bees, etc like to get sucked into these alternators via the fan and cause
problems, too.  Does anyone know what went wrong in the ones they've had go
bad?

Most alternators kick the can because of voltage regulator failures, usually
caused by heat..  We have an external regulator (power module or SMEC/SBEC).

NAPA, along with many others, sell these things with lifetime warranties.

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-03 Thread Paul T. Standaert
The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring, 
Bearings, Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases

YES!  Those are the correct terminologies!  I'm in electric motor land yet.  They do 
essentially the same things though.  I forgot to suggest the rectifier that can easily 
go bad too, or turn into a half wave rectifier.  Again, heat on the diodes can kill

Tell us the scoupe on getting the 136 amp ones to work.  90 will always work fine for 
me, but ya never know.


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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-03 Thread Bryan Lugert
THE biggest thing that kills alternators is jump starting your car when the
battery is dead.
That will blow the diodes in the rectifier.

Also, remember the old test where you would unplug the battery to see if the
alternator (generator) was doing it's job?  Well DO NOT DO IT!  Cars today
are not meant to be run without the battery and you could cause damage to
your cars computer.

136 amp?  I will get all the correct information tomorrow.
It involves getting a 136 amp alt from another Dodge application and then
adding a spacer to the mounting ear. I believe the mounting ear an our cars
is 8mm and the one that I know works is 11mm.  Anyway, I can get those
spacers really cheap.

Pics might be posted tomorrow if I have enough time (and brains)
I am headed to Turbopalooza on Friday morning, so if you need an alternator
or starter just let me know and I will bring it along.

-Bryan

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T. Standaert
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 11:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's


The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring,
Bearings, Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases

YES!  Those are the correct terminologies!  I'm in electric motor land yet.
They do essentially the same things though.  I forgot to suggest the
rectifier that can easily go bad too, or turn into a half wave rectifier.
Again, heat on the diodes can kill

Tell us the scoupe on getting the 136 amp ones to work.  90 will always work
fine for me, but ya never know.

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-02 Thread Jason Arroyo
Seeing as you want more out of it, I think you should reconsider finding
an alternator shop. They can build it however you want it, and for the
Chryslers it's usually reasonable if not comparable to an autoparts
store replaement in price. Might as well do it right.

-J   Southern California Forced Induction
1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II
1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo
1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo
1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale)
1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?)
1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo
1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo
1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Carita
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:57 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's


I am throughly frustrated with Autozone and other parts stores and the
quality of the rebuilt alternators they provide.  My second Autozone
alternator died about a mile from home last night.  Luckily, I never
returned the original core.

The original alternator is 19 years old and only puts out about
13.3-13.5 volts.  It is good enough for now, but it should be putting
out ~14.5 volts.

Short of finding a place to rebuild the orginal alternator.  Is there a
recommendation on where to look for a quality part?  Ideally, I would
like to upgrade the output as well, moving from 70 amps to 90 amps.  Is
there a Mopar part out there that will hook up to my T1 85 wiring
harness and bracket?  Are NAPA parts better quality?

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Re: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-02 Thread PentastarTurbo
In a message dated 11/2/2004 9:58:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Are NAPA  parts better quality?


definatly!  

Chris  Pauluk  - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge
84 Rampage -  _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ 
(http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo)  
(or) _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ 
(http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) 

--._.-*-._.-*-   GROUP BUY  -*-._.-*-._.--
L body 2 door car   truck (ie; Charger, Rampage body styles, ect.) *1979 -  
1987* 
FULL A pillar trim replacement w/integrated dual 2-1/16 gauge  housing pods 
_http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9_ 
(http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9)   
Contact me privately @  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
(mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])  if  interested...

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RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's

2004-11-02 Thread Bryan Lugert
What vehicle do you have this in?
You mentioned 1985 Wiring, but what Model vehicle?

Autozone and Napa get there rebuilt alternators from the same places
usually.

-Bryan

-Original Message-
I am throughly frustrated with Autozone and other parts stores and the
quality of the rebuilt alternators they provide.  My second Autozone
alternator died about a mile from home last night.  Luckily, I never
returned the original core.

The original alternator is 19 years old and only puts out about
13.3-13.5 volts.  It is good enough for now, but it should be putting
out ~14.5 volts.

Short of finding a place to rebuild the orginal alternator.  Is there
a recommendation on where to look for a quality part?  Ideally, I
would like to upgrade the output as well, moving from 70 amps to 90
amps.  Is there a Mopar part out there that will hook up to my T1 85
wiring harness and bracket?  Are NAPA parts better quality?

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