Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-15 Thread Mike Fisher
I have seen people buy the self exciting GM style ones and wire them up to
bypass the OEM ones.  That style of regulator is so cheap and so plentiful I
have never seen a reason why to change out the PM or LM to fix the issue.

On Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 7:24 AM,  wrote:

>
> I thought I had the regulator portion of my computer go, but it turned out
> to be the shunt (wire that goes to the brush itself), causing to not to
> charge. The real point however is when I went to an alternator/starter guy
> he had this little external regulator that bolted right on to the back back
> of the alternator and essentially got rid of the internal one from the
> computer.
>
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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-15 Thread gdefoe

I thought I had the regulator portion of my computer go, but it turned out to 
be the shunt (wire that goes to the brush itself), causing to not to charge. 
The real point however is when I went to an alternator/starter guy he had this 
little external regulator that bolted right on to the back back of the 
alternator and essentially got rid of the internal one from the computer.

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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-14 Thread Russ W. Knize
Sounds like your alternator is going "full-field" or the LM has lost its
reference to ground.  The power module drives the field current of the
alternator but the logic module is what measures the system voltage and
determines how hard to drive the fields.  The field terminals are the
two small ones on the alternator.  One is tied directly to the ASD relay
output (battery voltage) and the other is driven towards ground by the
PM (the closer to 0V it is, the more current the alternator puts out).

If the driver in the PM has failed (shorted) or the wiring between the
PM and the alternator field is shorted to ground or the alternator field
has an internal short, the alternator will put out as much current as it
can.  The battery voltage will vary consistently with engine RPM and the
voltage across the two field terminals on the alternator will be at
about the same voltage as the battery.

If the logic module's ground is floating a few volts above the rest of
the vehicle, the charging voltage will increase by that amount.  The LM
gets its ground through a bolt at the fuel rail.  In this case, the
voltage across the field terminals will decrease with engine RPM.

All that said, it is not good for the electronics to operate at such
high voltages for long.

Russ

On Mon, 2010-07-12 at 21:09 -0700, Malcolm Lawton wrote:
> Hi, 
> Hope you can help me with this problem. When driving, the power loss light 
> came on and the voltage gauge almost went to 18 volts. I turned on the 
> lights, heater fan, and rear window defroster. This lowered the voltage and 
> the power loss light went out. If I turn any of these off, the voltage goes 
> up and the power loss goes back on. If I remember, the voltage regulator is 
> part of the computer. Anything I should check before changing the computer? 
> If I need a new computer, any ideas where to get one at a reasonable price? 
> Thanks,
> 
> Malcolm
> '86 Omni GLHS #044
> 
> _
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> inbox.
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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-14 Thread Rich Bryant

Shorted regulator wires can definately cause overcharging...

Checking for shorts is a good tip for people that have overcharging 
issues.  Usually a bad regulator in the PM will stop the alternator from 
charging and the voltage will be 12v or less.

A quick way to know if the alternator is charging without any kind of 
meter is to put a screwdriver on the back side of it.  If it is charging 
it will stick to the alternator due to the magnetic field that the coils 
create.  For your own safety, hold only the plastic portion while doing 
this and make sure you don't touch the actual terminals (just the case).

-Rich




On Wed, 14 Jul 2010, Stefan Mullikin wrote:

> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 12:55:24 -0700
> From: Stefan Mullikin 
> To: "rapid...@aol.com" 
> Cc: "shelbydodge@imagilist.com" 
> Subject: Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts
> 
> On my Sundance that did the same thing, I had to replace the alternator, the 
> power module, fix the grounds under the power module and clean the pins on 
> the computer.
>
> That seemed to have solved the problem.
>
> Stefan
>
> On Jul 14, 2010, at 11:36 AM, rapid...@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I've had it happen with a bad inside the kick panel computer also. I have
>> one now that if I put it in the Shelby Lancer it will peg the volt meter and
>> if  I switch it with the MP computer (that's the only replacement I could
>> find) it  charge's normally. I too had a the old type regulator (and it
>> worked fine) but  i  wanted the stock look under the hood.
>> Roy
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 7/14/2010 12:24:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
>> mrmo...@accesswave.ca writes:
>>
>> The  voltage regulator is in the power module under the hood (beside the
>> battery) These are known to go, especially if your alternator has wonky
>> outputs.
>>
>> I actually hooked up an external voltage regulator from a  70's Mopar since
>> they are  quite a bit more robust and new or reman  power modules are
>> getting
>> hard to come by. You can try the Chrysler  dealer, but I think they are
>> NS1.
>> A quick scan of ebay brought up 1 or  2.
>>
>> Good  luck
>>
>> Trevor
>
>
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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-14 Thread Stefan Mullikin
On my Sundance that did the same thing, I had to replace the alternator, the 
power module, fix the grounds under the power module and clean the pins on the 
computer.

That seemed to have solved the problem.

Stefan

On Jul 14, 2010, at 11:36 AM, rapid...@aol.com wrote:

> I've had it happen with a bad inside the kick panel computer also. I have  
> one now that if I put it in the Shelby Lancer it will peg the volt meter and 
> if  I switch it with the MP computer (that's the only replacement I could 
> find) it  charge's normally. I too had a the old type regulator (and it 
> worked fine) but  i  wanted the stock look under the hood.
> Roy
> 
> 
> In a message dated 7/14/2010 12:24:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
> mrmo...@accesswave.ca writes:
> 
> The  voltage regulator is in the power module under the hood (beside the  
> battery) These are known to go, especially if your alternator has wonky  
> outputs.
> 
> I actually hooked up an external voltage regulator from a  70's Mopar since 
> they are  quite a bit more robust and new or reman  power modules are 
> getting 
> hard to come by. You can try the Chrysler  dealer, but I think they are 
> NS1. 
> A quick scan of ebay brought up 1 or  2.
> 
> Good  luck
> 
> Trevor


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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-14 Thread RAPIDROY
I've had it happen with a bad inside the kick panel computer also. I have  
one now that if I put it in the Shelby Lancer it will peg the volt meter and 
if  I switch it with the MP computer (that's the only replacement I could 
find) it  charge's normally. I too had a the old type regulator (and it 
worked fine) but  i  wanted the stock look under the hood.
Roy
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2010 12:24:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
mrmo...@accesswave.ca writes:

The  voltage regulator is in the power module under the hood (beside the  
battery) These are known to go, especially if your alternator has wonky  
outputs.

I actually hooked up an external voltage regulator from a  70's Mopar since 
they are  quite a bit more robust and new or reman  power modules are 
getting 
hard to come by. You can try the Chrysler  dealer, but I think they are 
NS1. 
A quick scan of ebay brought up 1 or  2.

Good  luck

Trevor

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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-14 Thread Trevor
The voltage regulator is in the power module under the hood (beside the 
battery) These are known to go, especially if your alternator has wonky 
outputs.

I actually hooked up an external voltage regulator from a 70's Mopar since 
they are  quite a bit more robust and new or reman power modules are getting 
hard to come by. You can try the Chrysler dealer, but I think they are NS1. 
A quick scan of ebay brought up 1 or 2.

Good luck

Trevor

SL512



- Original Message - 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts


>I think 1/2 is controlled with the inside computer and 1/2 with the power
> module under the hood. I can't tell you which one it can be. On my Shelby
> Lancer  I had to replace both to get the volts down.
> Roy
>
>
> In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:09:55 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
> mbl...@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> Hi,
> Hope you can help me with this problem. When driving, the power loss light
> came on and the voltage gauge almost went to 18 volts. I turned on the
> lights,  heater fan, and rear window defroster. This lowered the voltage 
> and the
> power  loss light went out. If I turn any of these off, the voltage goes 
> up
> and the  power loss goes back on. If I remember, the voltage regulator is
> part of the  computer. Anything I should check before changing the 
> computer?
> If I need a  new computer, any ideas where to get one at a reasonable 
> price?
> Thanks,
>
> Malcolm
> '86 Omni GLHS #044
>
> _
> Hotmail  is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from 
> your
> inbox.
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> L:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-13 Thread Jim Butler
Had this problem on my GLHS replaced several parts (power module, computer, 
alternator) with no luck, and so took it to the dealer who again replace the 
power module, but guaranteed that was the fix. When it failed again days later 
they got to figure it out on their nickel. Turned out there was a failing wire 
in the wiring harness. They replaced that and it worked great.

Hope this helps

.Jim

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Re: SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-12 Thread RAPIDROY
I think 1/2 is controlled with the inside computer and 1/2 with the power  
module under the hood. I can't tell you which one it can be. On my Shelby 
Lancer  I had to replace both to get the volts down.
Roy 
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:09:55 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
mbl...@hotmail.com writes:


Hi,  
Hope you can help me with this problem. When driving, the power loss light  
came on and the voltage gauge almost went to 18 volts. I turned on the 
lights,  heater fan, and rear window defroster. This lowered the voltage and 
the 
power  loss light went out. If I turn any of these off, the voltage goes up 
and the  power loss goes back on. If I remember, the voltage regulator is 
part of the  computer. Anything I should check before changing the computer? 
If I need a  new computer, any ideas where to get one at a reasonable price? 
 Thanks,

Malcolm
'86 Omni GLHS #044

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SD> GLHS power loss light and 18 volts

2010-07-12 Thread Malcolm Lawton

Hi, 
Hope you can help me with this problem. When driving, the power loss light came 
on and the voltage gauge almost went to 18 volts. I turned on the lights, 
heater fan, and rear window defroster. This lowered the voltage and the power 
loss light went out. If I turn any of these off, the voltage goes up and the 
power loss goes back on. If I remember, the voltage regulator is part of the 
computer. Anything I should check before changing the computer? If I need a new 
computer, any ideas where to get one at a reasonable price? Thanks,

Malcolm
'86 Omni GLHS #044
  
_
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inbox.
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