Re: CS>Archiving

[JOSEPH T HARRISON]

Dean 

Highlight the intire file, by dragging the curser down the page. Then hit Ctrl 
C, then 
go to your zip disk, open the file you wish to save the digest in and hit Ctrl 
V and it
will be saved.  You must have at least a blank file, saved from any word 
processor 
program on the zip first.

Joe Harrison 
-Original Message-
From: Dean Woodward 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:41 AM
Subject: CS>Archiving


I must be pretty dense, because I can't find a way to move the silver 
digest messages to my zip drive for storage.
 
I am using Microsoft Outlook as my e-Mail program. Any help?? Suggest that 
we go off list with this question. Reach me at woodw...@educelec.com
 
Thanks, Dean

CS>RE: Shock me again baby

[Dean Woodward]

Mike: Got two copies of Bill's post; one with the CS on subject line and one
without. This whole thing gets complicated don't it???

Dean

> -Original Message-
> From: Tai-Pan [mailto:l...@fbtc.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 3:31 PM
> To: woodw...@educelec.com
> Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: Shock me again baby
>
>
> Hi Dean and list,
>
>  Be careful now,we like you around.
>  Had a problem once at Naval Station in Memphis Tenn. Built a new
> Technical training complex for Aviation Electronics schools.First class
> of students were getting shocked all over the place. Seems the wiring
> all over the place was wrong. We staff people said we could fix it
> right,but they forced the contractors to do it. They couldn`t fix it
> after three weeks. So the local SeaBee Reserve Unit was activated to do
> it. After a week they did ask us to help, week later all was well.:-)
>   Seems the main power coming down the road was a old WW2 four phase
> system which was then ran into a new three phase Delta-Y system thru a
> polygon tranformer substation. We staff did all the phasing and wire
> IDing and the CB`s did the wiring. Did the whole complex in one week and
> had classes going again.
>  Seems I have digressed here,back to Deans house.I will tell you what
> I`ve done in the past and you can do it if you want to.
>  Take the cover off of you power panel and connect a long wire (so it
> will reach where ever you want it to) to the neutral buss and get the
> end of it into your kitchen. This wire is your house ground. Measure
> from it to your sink,should be zero volts(have seen hot sinks because of
> disposal problems). Next measure from the house ground wire (the one you
> brought to the kitchen)to your wall receptical to the round ground hole,
> should be zero volts. Next measure to the longer of the two slots, (its
> a system ground) should be zero volts. Next measure to the shorter of
> the two slots. Should be 115 to 120 volts. If all of this is good,
> problem is not the house wiring.
>  Read from short slot to sink,should read line volts(115 to 120). Read
> long slot to sink, should be zero.
>  Now plug in the distiller, leave top off (don`t plug it in),don`t push
> in the power switch (don`t want it on yet).Read from the neutral wire
> you brought into the kitchen to the pot,should be zero volts (maybe a
> few millivolts with a digital meter).If its not zero volts there is a
> problem in the distiller.
>  The distiller has a nut on the bottom (just one nut).UNPLUG the
> distiller and remove the nut. This will let you take it apart. Check for
> any water inside the wiring. If its wet dry it with a hair drier. Make
> sure its dry where the heater wires are. After its dry and no wires are
> pinched put it back together. TEST from the neutral wire to the pot
> again (has to be plugged in). If its not zero volts,take it in for
> service.
>  Hope this helps some. :-)
>   Bless you  Bob  Lee
> --
> oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
>   l...@fbtc.net
>


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RE: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller

[Dean Woodward]

Bill and Mike:

Bill - the fact that it hasn't a grounded plug is probably because the unit
is double-insulated (as Bill Lee pointed out).

Mike: I am also getting double copies of Bill's posting. Are you getting
double copies of mine???

Dean
-Original Message-
From: Bill Schramm [mailto:wschr...@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 5:49 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Cc: woodw...@educelec.com
Subject: Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller


You are correct, Dean.  I first looked askance at the "turn the plug
around" idea because virtually all modern 2 wire power cords are polarised.
However the one on the Sears distiller is NOT polarised.  It can be easily
inverted. One direction I read 0.7 VAC in the other direction I read 24 VAC.
Guess you need to plug it in the right way and leave it there.

Incidentally, any of you who have the "EcoWater" portable distiller, it
is the same product.  If you look closely on the Sears package or on labels
it will say Manufacturer EcoWater.  It surprises me that a product that
pulls 5A can ship with a nonpolarised 2 wire plug AND still get the UL
sticker (which it has).

--
> From: Dean Woodward 
> To: l...@fbtc.net; Bill Schramm 
> Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: RE: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 8:34 AM
>
> Bill: I have done a few more measurements on my Sears distiller. The
> resistance from both sides of the plug to the metal cannister is
greater
> than 30 megohms (as high as my unit measures). With the unit plugged
in (not
> in water, give me a break :>)) I read 50 volts ac between the
cannister and
> ground (same readings with sink as ground and with ground wire in ac
plug as
> ground). If I turn the ac plug around I only read 5 volts ac to
ground. I
> just checked the wall socket and have 120 volts ac from one connector
to
> ground and about 7 millivolts from the other side to ground. So I
think that
> is normal. I don't have any idea where I am getting the 50 volts. If
the
> heating element is grounded at 50/120 of the way from one end, then
turning
> the plug around should make the reading 70 volts. But it doesn't. They
> didn't teach me this at A&M in EE 101.
>
> Dean
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Tai-Pan [mailto:l...@fbtc.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 8:49 AM
> > To: Bill Schramm
> > Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > Subject: Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller
> >
> >
> > Bill Schramm wrote:
> > >
> > > I also received an unpleasant shock from my sears distiller.  It
> > > happened when the unit was being cleaned in a metal sink.  Unit
does
> > > contain a "do not immerse" warning.  Thereafter I never clean it
> > > without unplugging
> > >
> > > --
> >
> >  Holy Smoke Folks,
> >
> >  Putting electric things in water,with power on!!
> >  Throwing gasoline on fires!!
> >  I don`t do funerals very well, and I like you all alot, so knock
off
> > the dumb stuff. Scareing the hell out of me. :-)
> >  Engage brain before starting hands.
> >  Think about what you are doing, then think again.
> >   Most things require ten minutes of thinking and only one minute of
> > doing.
> >  Hind sight is not good, you will be dead before you get to do it.
> >  Safety starts at home, not somewhere else.
> >  Your brain is your best safety tool. Use it.
> >
> > Bless you   Bob  Lee
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
> >   l...@fbtc.net
> >
> >
> > --
> > The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal
silver.
> >
> > To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message
to:
> > silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-
silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
> > with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line.
> >
> > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
> >
> > List maintainer: Mike Devour 
> >
>
>
> --
> The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal
silver.
>
> To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message
to:
> silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
> with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line.
>
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
>
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>

Re: CS>I'm having a problem...

[EJFisch]

Mike I'm also getting two copies.  Carol


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Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller

[Bill Schramm]

You are correct, Dean.  I first looked askance at the "turn the plug
around" idea because virtually all modern 2 wire power cords are polarised.
 However the one on the Sears distiller is NOT polarised.  It can be easily
inverted. One direction I read 0.7 VAC in the other direction I read 24
VAC.  Guess you need to plug it in the right way and leave it there.

Incidentally, any of you who have the "EcoWater" portable distiller, it is
the same product.  If you look closely on the Sears package or on labels it
will say Manufacturer EcoWater.  It surprises me that a product that pulls
5A can ship with a nonpolarised 2 wire plug AND still get the UL sticker
(which it has).

--
> From: Dean Woodward 
> To: l...@fbtc.net; Bill Schramm 
> Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: RE: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 8:34 AM
> 
> Bill: I have done a few more measurements on my Sears distiller. The
> resistance from both sides of the plug to the metal cannister is greater
> than 30 megohms (as high as my unit measures). With the unit plugged in
(not
> in water, give me a break :>)) I read 50 volts ac between the cannister
and
> ground (same readings with sink as ground and with ground wire in ac plug
as
> ground). If I turn the ac plug around I only read 5 volts ac to ground. I
> just checked the wall socket and have 120 volts ac from one connector to
> ground and about 7 millivolts from the other side to ground. So I think
that
> is normal. I don't have any idea where I am getting the 50 volts. If the
> heating element is grounded at 50/120 of the way from one end, then
turning
> the plug around should make the reading 70 volts. But it doesn't. They
> didn't teach me this at A&M in EE 101.
> 
> Dean
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Tai-Pan [mailto:l...@fbtc.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 8:49 AM
> > To: Bill Schramm
> > Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > Subject: Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller
> >
> >
> > Bill Schramm wrote:
> > >
> > > I also received an unpleasant shock from my sears distiller.  It
> > > happened when the unit was being cleaned in a metal sink.  Unit does
> > > contain a "do not immerse" warning.  Thereafter I never clean it
> > > without unplugging
> > >
> > > --
> >
> >  Holy Smoke Folks,
> >
> >  Putting electric things in water,with power on!!
> >  Throwing gasoline on fires!!
> >  I don`t do funerals very well, and I like you all alot, so knock off
> > the dumb stuff. Scareing the hell out of me. :-)
> >  Engage brain before starting hands.
> >  Think about what you are doing, then think again.
> >   Most things require ten minutes of thinking and only one minute of
> > doing.
> >  Hind sight is not good, you will be dead before you get to do it.
> >  Safety starts at home, not somewhere else.
> >  Your brain is your best safety tool. Use it.
> >
> > Bless you   Bob  Lee
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
> >   l...@fbtc.net
> >
> >
> > --
> > The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal
silver.
> >
> > To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
> > silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
> > with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line.
> >
> > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
> >
> > List maintainer: Mike Devour 
> >
> 
> 
> --
> The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.
> 
> To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: 
> silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
> with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line.
> 
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
> 
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
> 

CS>Shock me again baby

[Tai-Pan]

Hi Dean and list,
 
 Be careful now,we like you around.
 Had a problem once at Naval Station in Memphis Tenn. Built a new
Technical training complex for Aviation Electronics schools.First class
of students were getting shocked all over the place. Seems the wiring
all over the place was wrong. We staff people said we could fix it
right,but they forced the contractors to do it. They couldn`t fix it
after three weeks. So the local SeaBee Reserve Unit was activated to do
it. After a week they did ask us to help, week later all was well.:-)
  Seems the main power coming down the road was a old WW2 four phase
system which was then ran into a new three phase Delta-Y system thru a
polygon tranformer substation. We staff did all the phasing and wire
IDing and the CB`s did the wiring. Did the whole complex in one week and
had classes going again.
 Seems I have digressed here,back to Deans house.I will tell you what
I`ve done in the past and you can do it if you want to.
 Take the cover off of you power panel and connect a long wire (so it
will reach where ever you want it to) to the neutral buss and get the
end of it into your kitchen. This wire is your house ground. Measure
from it to your sink,should be zero volts(have seen hot sinks because of
disposal problems). Next measure from the house ground wire (the one you
brought to the kitchen)to your wall receptical to the round ground hole,
should be zero volts. Next measure to the longer of the two slots, (its
a system ground) should be zero volts. Next measure to the shorter of
the two slots. Should be 115 to 120 volts. If all of this is good,
problem is not the house wiring.
 Read from short slot to sink,should read line volts(115 to 120). Read
long slot to sink, should be zero.
 Now plug in the distiller, leave top off (don`t plug it in),don`t push
in the power switch (don`t want it on yet).Read from the neutral wire
you brought into the kitchen to the pot,should be zero volts (maybe a
few millivolts with a digital meter).If its not zero volts there is a
problem in the distiller.
 The distiller has a nut on the bottom (just one nut).UNPLUG the
distiller and remove the nut. This will let you take it apart. Check for
any water inside the wiring. If its wet dry it with a hair drier. Make
sure its dry where the heater wires are. After its dry and no wires are
pinched put it back together. TEST from the neutral wire to the pot
again (has to be plugged in). If its not zero volts,take it in for
service.
 Hope this helps some. :-)
  Bless you  Bob  Lee
-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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Re: CS for pets

[Alan & Shelley Charlesworth]

That is a great story. I am glad to have this info.  I am learning
more
day by day! Thanks!

Shelley

medalt...@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/21/98 6:07:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> charleswo...@access1.net writes:
>
> << Anyone have experience giving CS to pets? >>
>
> I don't know anything about rats, but I do have an interesting story
to tell
> about my cat.  We have a Pine Martin in our woods and it is nasty.
One day
> our cat came home and had a very nasty bite out of his hind
quarter.  Now it
> would have done no good to take him to the Vet, it was much too
large to be
> stitched up.
>
> I got out the CS and sprayed it directly on the wound.  He sure
didn't like
> that, but then began to lick at it.  He just laid there on the
kitchen floor
> for a day and a half.  In fact he was so weak that he ended up
defecating on
> himself and I cleaned the area under him with Clorox and water and
tried to
> make him comfortable.
>
> I continued to put the CS on the wound for another three weeks.  I
am happy to
> say that it is now gone and his fur has grown back.  He walks with a
slight
> limp, as the wound was so deep and large that it destroyed some of
the muscle.
> But he is still here and doing well.
>
> I am sure that it would have cost a LOT of money at the Vet and
possibly they
> would have suggested that I put our dear "Fred" away.
>
> Sandra


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Re: CS for pets???

[Tai-Pan]

medalt...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 9/21/98 6:07:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> charleswo...@access1.net writes:
> 
> << Anyone have experience giving CS to pets? >>
> 
> I don't know anything about rats, but I do have an interesting story to tell
> about my cat.  We have a Pine Martin in our woods and it is nasty.  One day
> our cat came home and had a very nasty bite out of his hind quarter.  Now it
> would have done no good to take him to the Vet, it was much too large to be
> stitched up.
> 
> I got out the CS and sprayed it directly on the wound.  He sure didn't like
> that, but then began to lick at it.  He just laid there on the kitchen floor
> for a day and a half.  In fact he was so weak that he ended up defecating on
> himself and I cleaned the area under him with Clorox and water and tried to
> make him comfortable.
> 
> I continued to put the CS on the wound for another three weeks.  I am happy to
> say that it is now gone and his fur has grown back.  He walks with a slight
> limp, as the wound was so deep and large that it destroyed some of the muscle.
> But he is still here and doing well.
> 
> I am sure that it would have cost a LOT of money at the Vet and possibly they
> would have suggested that I put our dear "Fred" away.
> 
> Sandra
> 
> --
 
 Hi sandra and list,

  Glad to hear Fred is OK. You said a *Pine Martin*got him(the cat).
Don`t understand how a small bird (swallow) could do that much damage to
your cat.
  Maybe you mean a Marten,a carnivorous animal larger than a weasel,with
sable fur.I can picture a *Marten* taking a chunk out of your cat.
  Bless you  Bob  Lee

-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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Re: CS>Unidentified subject[should have been tarnish]!

[John and Valerie Surgeon]

><< Anyone know the formula for cleaning tarnish off silver without nasty
> chemicals? >>
Sandra wrote:
>
>One method for removing tarnish from silver is to put a piece of aluminum
foil
>in the bottom of a stainless steel pan and put in some baking soda.  Place
the
>silver in the boiling water touching the foil.  It is almost instantaneous.
>
>Sandra

Thanks, Sandra.  I caught someone's suggestion about baking soda, tried
some in a dish with baking soda overnight, no aluminum, a little salt.
Definetly looked better in the morning-real shiny.  I'm still paranoid
about the aluminum [total Alzheimers', dudes!], but we can't avoid a
certain amount around us.













>
>
>--
>The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.
>
>To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: 
>silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com  -or-  silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com
>with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line.
>
>To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
>
>List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
>
>
objects in rear view mirror may be really behind you.


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Re: CS for pets???

[Tai-Pan]

Marsha Hallett wrote:
Shelley wrote: 
> >Anyone have experience giving CS to pets?
> >
> >I keep rats as pets.  I am new to the whole CS experience.
> >Rats often suffer a fatal lung inflammation caused by a
> >mycoplasma organism.  Would anyone advise me to give CS to my
> >rats as a preventative measure?  If so,
> >how much and how often?
> >
> >Any info is appreaciated.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Shelley
> 
> Dear Shelley, I give CS to my birds, finches and canaries, with an
> eyedropper, directly into the beak. I put CS in my Pug`s water bowl, and
> topically on their nasty nose wrinkles, which get infected easily.
>  I would put CS into the ratties` water bottle. I would try a few drops per
> 8 ounce bottle, if that is the size you use. More won`t be harmful, they`ll
> excrete any extra. Just use it every day, as a preventive, and if any rat is
> ill increase the dosage by twice. You just have to go by guess and by
> golly...
> What kind of little rat people do you have?? They are so neat...
> I raised show Cavies many years ago. I like rodents, much more fun than
> children. (They don`t grow up and go away, leaving you all alone. sigh )
> Lotsa luck!!
> Marsha, owned by Tashy and Willy, black Pug people, and a mess of birds,
> too...
> 
> --

 Hi Shelley, Marsha and listers,

  My son and I raise pink eyed whites (Albino biolab rats). We always
put CS in their water. Also put CS in the dogs water. If we put out two
buckets of water ,one with CS, he will always drink from the one with CS
until it runs out before drinking from the other one.
 Also spray CS on animal wounds and on ourselfs too. Keep a spray bottle
in the kitchen just to spray small cuts and scratchs and burns.
Accidents do happen, kids always into something. Also spray on insect
bites and stings.

  Bless you  Bob  Lee

-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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CS>Re: Amber color,Repost: Advanced CS or Holy CS Batman]

[Tai-Pan]

Hi Whitney and listers,
  The color is straight forward physics. Twenty seven volt systems
(gradient at electrodes) remove two electrons from the silver atom.
Flocculation will produce the amber (yellow) color.Here is a repost FYI.
  Bless you   Bob  Lee
-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings transmuters of silver into electuary medicament, 
 Could have just said hello,no fun in that. Anyway, some new stuff to
talk about.
 Some months back was thinking how to keep the CS clear while making it.
Clear being used to mean no turbidity. That means totally transparent or
perspicuous(nothing visible). Clear is not a correct term to use since
you can have clear eyes, a clear road,etc. .So in attempts to make CS
with no turbidity did a series of experiments on *Current Density*.
After doing a lot of tests and constructing Current Density Tables have
found that if the wetted electrode current is kept below 
0.0107ma per mm2 (10.7ua per mm2) that the CS stays clear and no
Floculation takes place until after power is removed. This equates to a
true solution or particles under 1 mu (10-6 mm).  mu=millimicron
   ma=milliamp ua= microamp   mm=millimeter  mm2=millimeter squared 
This means that single atoms have been removed. These single atoms will
begin to floculate after power is removed into larger groups of atoms or
small molecules,all of which can PASS INTO cells and attack
viruses,viroids and prions. Normal large particle CS will attack
bacteria which are outside of cells, but can not get into the cell.
 Remember that bacteria are outside cells and viruses,viroids and prions
are inside cells.
  In order to further enhance the potentiality of the CS ran a series of
experiments to explore the capability of removing one or two or three
electrons from the silver atom. This I could do with the *starved
electrode* technic. In was found that with only one electron removed the
CS would become pale rose pink (red)(6470A,647mu) when floculating with
only slight turbidity. With two electrons removed the CS would become
yellow (5780A,578mu)when floculating and only slight turbidity. With
three electrons removed the CS would become violet
(lavender)(4050A,405mu) when floculating with only slight turbidity.
A= angstroms mu= millimicrons  mv=millivolt
 With the *starved electrode* the CS becomes very ionicly active with
typical readings of 30 to 50 mv at the electrodes with no power applied
after making the CS. One run was stopped at 6ppm and WITHOUT power
applied the ppm continued to rise to 14ppm over a period of several
days. The mv potential at the electrodes slowly went down as the ppm
went up. This is really active stuff and opens up new avenues of thought
and more tests to make.  

   Bless you   Bob Lee
-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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--- End Message ---

RE: CS>Experience with CS Pro Ultra?

[Mark Robbins]

Jim,
Thanks for your response.

Best,
Mark

> I have a CS Pro system.  The only trouble I have had is with my house AC
power
> being less that optimum.  Surges, noise, brownouts.
>
> Have had no problem at all with the unit.  Just be sure to follow
directions.
> I am happy with the results I get.
>
> Jim
>
> Mark Robbins wrote:
>
> > Dear Group,
> >
> > Does anyone have experience, good or bad, with the CS 'PRO' Ultra
systems?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mark Robbins


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RE: CS>Smells, Sears Distiller

[Dean Woodward]

Hi Joyce and Bill: I'm puzzled by the yellow residue and the bad smell. It
suggests sulphur. Joyce does your water supply perhaps have sulphur in it??
Try this: Distill a gallon the normal way; rinse the containter; put the
distilled water back in and distill it again. See if the yellow deposit and
bad smell persist. Just an idea.

Dean

> -Original Message-
> From: Tai-Pan [mailto:l...@fbtc.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 9:24 AM
> To: Joyce Inouye
> Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: CS>Smells, Sears Distiller
>
>
> Joyce Inouye wrote:
> >
> > I have another concern about Sears Distiller.  Someone mentioned before
> > that dirty, yellowish water was left after the distillation
> process which
> > smelled awful. I totally agree with him because I smelled it.
> >
> > However, I wonder whether the yellow color does not come from the metal,
> > not the water?  This question occurred to me after I tried to clean the
> > metal container with apple cider vinegar : water mixture and with
> > lemon-water mixture.  I did this to try to get rid of the
> "burnt taste" of
> > the water. When I used the lemon-water mixture and left it in the metal
> > container for about 2 days, the water turned a "rotten yellow" color. It
> > smelled also, though the smell may have come from bacterial
> contamination.
> >
>  Hi Joyce and listers,
>
>  Sorry to hear about all your smell problems.
>  In early posting I said I never let any thing touch or get into the pot
> ,only water and my stainless steel cleaning pad. Also dry it well before
> putting it away. Never had a smell or taste problem. Would suggest
> puting a pinch of baking soda in the water before distilling to help the
> taste. The baking soda will be left behind when done distilling.
>  Always let it cool down before cleaning,just use tap water and the
> stainless pad. I never would use any organic substance for cleaning(
> lemon,apple,vineagar). :-)
>
>bless you   Bob  Lee
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
>   l...@fbtc.net
>
>
> --
> The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.
>
> To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
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>
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>


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RE: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller

[Dean Woodward]

Bill: I have done a few more measurements on my Sears distiller. The
resistance from both sides of the plug to the metal cannister is greater
than 30 megohms (as high as my unit measures). With the unit plugged in (not
in water, give me a break :>)) I read 50 volts ac between the cannister and
ground (same readings with sink as ground and with ground wire in ac plug as
ground). If I turn the ac plug around I only read 5 volts ac to ground. I
just checked the wall socket and have 120 volts ac from one connector to
ground and about 7 millivolts from the other side to ground. So I think that
is normal. I don't have any idea where I am getting the 50 volts. If the
heating element is grounded at 50/120 of the way from one end, then turning
the plug around should make the reading 70 volts. But it doesn't. They
didn't teach me this at A&M in EE 101.

Dean
> -Original Message-
> From: Tai-Pan [mailto:l...@fbtc.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 8:49 AM
> To: Bill Schramm
> Cc: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller
>
>
> Bill Schramm wrote:
> >
> > I also received an unpleasant shock from my sears distiller.  It
> > happened when the unit was being cleaned in a metal sink.  Unit does
> > contain a "do not immerse" warning.  Thereafter I never clean it
> > without unplugging
> >
> > --
>
>  Holy Smoke Folks,
>
>  Putting electric things in water,with power on!!
>  Throwing gasoline on fires!!
>  I don`t do funerals very well, and I like you all alot, so knock off
> the dumb stuff. Scareing the hell out of me. :-)
>  Engage brain before starting hands.
>  Think about what you are doing, then think again.
>   Most things require ten minutes of thinking and only one minute of
> doing.
>  Hind sight is not good, you will be dead before you get to do it.
>  Safety starts at home, not somewhere else.
>  Your brain is your best safety tool. Use it.
>
> Bless you   Bob  Lee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
>   l...@fbtc.net
>
>
> --
> The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.
>
> To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
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>
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>
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>


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CS>Smells, Sears Distiller

[Tai-Pan]

Joyce Inouye wrote:
> 
> I have another concern about Sears Distiller.  Someone mentioned before
> that dirty, yellowish water was left after the distillation process which
> smelled awful. I totally agree with him because I smelled it.
> 
> However, I wonder whether the yellow color does not come from the metal,
> not the water?  This question occurred to me after I tried to clean the
> metal container with apple cider vinegar : water mixture and with
> lemon-water mixture.  I did this to try to get rid of the "burnt taste" of
> the water. When I used the lemon-water mixture and left it in the metal
> container for about 2 days, the water turned a "rotten yellow" color. It
> smelled also, though the smell may have come from bacterial contamination.
> 
 Hi Joyce and listers,

 Sorry to hear about all your smell problems.
 In early posting I said I never let any thing touch or get into the pot
,only water and my stainless steel cleaning pad. Also dry it well before
putting it away. Never had a smell or taste problem. Would suggest
puting a pinch of baking soda in the water before distilling to help the
taste. The baking soda will be left behind when done distilling.
 Always let it cool down before cleaning,just use tap water and the
stainless pad. I never would use any organic substance for cleaning(
lemon,apple,vineagar). :-)

   bless you   Bob  Lee






-- 
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  l...@fbtc.net


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Re: CS>WARNING: Shock Hazard, Sears Distiller

[Tai-Pan]

Bill Schramm wrote:
> 
> I also received an unpleasant shock from my sears distiller.  It
> happened when the unit was being cleaned in a metal sink.  Unit does
> contain a "do not immerse" warning.  Thereafter I never clean it
> without unplugging
> 
> --

 Holy Smoke Folks,

 Putting electric things in water,with power on!!
 Throwing gasoline on fires!!
 I don`t do funerals very well, and I like you all alot, so knock off
the dumb stuff. Scareing the hell out of me. :-)
 Engage brain before starting hands.
 Think about what you are doing, then think again.
  Most things require ten minutes of thinking and only one minute of
doing.
 Hind sight is not good, you will be dead before you get to do it.
 Safety starts at home, not somewhere else.
 Your brain is your best safety tool. Use it.

Bless you   Bob  Lee







-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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Re: CS>Silver mirror

[Tai-Pan]

Percy wrote:
> 
> Jim:  I do not know if the ozsonated distilled water is a good idea or not.
>  I got mine from the local supermarket, distilled, ozonated, and have been
> using that to make the CS.  If it is not a good idea, I would like to know,
> and not use it.
> Thanks for your comment.
> 
> Percy
> 
> At 01:34 PM 9/18/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Is ozonated distilled water a good idea?  O3 is very reactive.
> >
> >Jim
> >
> >Percy wrote:
> >
> >> Hello everyone.  Here is something which I do not understand, and which my
> >> brother, Grady, does not understand.
> >>
> >> About two weeks ago he got a colloidal silver maker, and began making
> >> batches occasionally.  He makes 16 ounces, using a very clean glass, and
> >> ozoned distilled water.  The first few batches which he made were "normal"
> >> -- a light amber color, a slight metallic taste.  His maker puts out 27
> >> volts, consistently.
> >>
> >> Yesterday he made a batch, and was astonished to see that the glass had
> >> been "silvered" -- that is, the inside of the glass was coated with silver.
> >>  The liquid itself was light amber, with the slight metallic taste.  He
> >> tells me that the resistance of the liquid is the same as it was on
> >> previous batches, which did not silver the glass.
> >>
> >> This evening he made another batch, and again, the inside of the glass was
> >> silvered.  He looked at a jar of the colloid which he made yesterday -- it
> >> was now in a container separate from the glass it was made in, and the
> >> inside of the jar where he had stored it, was also silver.  In other words,
> >> the silver adheres to the glass, whether he is actually making the colloid,
> >> or if it is stored.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have an explanation for this?  We are very curious about it.
> >>
> >> Thanks for your comments.
> >>
> >> Percy
> >> p...@i-55.com
> >> 

Percy,
 Why are your messages dated for Sept. 1997 and showing up in last years
postings ? And then resent in Sept. 1998. :-)

   bless you   Bob Lee

 
-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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Re: CS>RE: Distilled H20

[Tai-Pan]

maneagle summer wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I checked out the site for the water distiller kits  mentioned and was
> shocked by the prices.
> For several months I have had information about a company that sells
> solar distiller kits at a reasonable price. Just recently they raised
> their prices. I am planning on buying one of their family
> solar distillers.  The location is
> http://safewatersystems.com/index.html
> and they have a family solar distiller for $125.
> 
> Warren
> 
> ---"M. G. Devour"  wrote:
> >
> > Hallelujah! I'm glad Zeke's finally got that web page working...
> >
> > I'm an enthusiastic do-it-yourselfer and I have always liked the idea
> > of solar energy projects. These folks sell kits and are even going to
> > publish a do-it-yourself guide. I like'em!
> >
> > I don't know anything more about them than is on their web site, but
> > I enjoyed my visit. It makes me want to go out and build me a solar
> > distiller! Cool!
> >
> > Be well,
> >
> > Mike D.
> >
> >
> > On 26 May 98 at 4:42, Dean wrote:> > I just tried the link
> http://www.zekes.com/~aguadelsol
> > > And it worked fine.
> > >
> > > Dean
> > [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
> > [mdev...@mail.id.net   ]
> > [Speaking only for myself...  ]
__
  Hi all,
 I like Zeke`s stuff ,but its priced out of sight(not worth it).
 The SafeWaterSystem is nothing more than a water heater. We don`t
*pasteurize* water. Your home water heater is as hot (160-170F) as their
product. Pasteurizing is for dairy products
(milk,cream,butter,yogert,cheese) and brewing products (beer, wine,etc.)
Pasteurizing selectively kills some microorganisms and promotes
others,it does not sterilize or remove undesirable things.
  As Mike D. indicated, the solar still plans are available from me at
cost. Easy to make yourself with ordinary things from the lumber yard
and hardware store.Minimal skill needed to make the solar still.

   Bless you   Bob  Lee

 Quail can`t spell potatoe,Clinton can`t tell what sex is. Shall we
discuss the meaning of the word *is*. :-) My kids are more intelligent.
 (sigh) 
-- 
oozing on the muggy shore of the gulf coast
  l...@fbtc.net


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CS>Experience with CS Pro Ultra?

[Mark Robbins]

Dear Group,

Does anyone have experience, good or bad, with the CS 'PRO' Ultra systems?

Thanks,

Mark Robbins


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Re: CS>Unidentified subject!

[MedAltY2K]

In a message dated 9/18/98 5:54:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
surg...@olympus.net writes:

<<  Anyone know the formula for cleaning tarnish off silver without nasty
 chemicals? >>


One method for removing tarnish from silver is to put a piece of aluminum foil
in the bottom of a stainless steel pan and put in some baking soda.  Place the
silver in the boiling water touching the foil.  It is almost instantaneous.

Sandra


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RE: CS>I'm having a problem...

[Dean Woodward]

Mike: Sorry to say, I got duplicates of both.

Dean

> -Original Message-
> From: M. G. Devour [mailto:mdev...@mail.id.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 7:09 AM
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: CS>I'm having a problem...
> 
> 
> It seams Dean is getting duplicate copies of each posting I send out, 
> or of each Reply: I send to the list. 
> 
> Dean, please tell me if this original posting gets dittoed. Then tell 
> me in e-mail if the reply I'm going to send to this message does.
> 
> If anyone else gets *two* copies of either or both of these, please 
> let me know in e-mail. Thanks.
> 
> Mike D.
> [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
> [mdev...@mail.id.net   ]
> [Speaking only for myself...  ]
> 
> 
> --
> The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver.
> 
> To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: 
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> 
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
> 
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
> 


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Re: CS>I'm having a problem...

[M. G. Devour]

Okay, this is a *reply* to my last posting. If you get *two* 
identical copies of this, please let me know in e-mail.

Thanks,

Mike D.

On 22 Sep 98 at 7:09, silver-list@eskimo.com wrote:

> It seams Dean is getting duplicate copies of each posting I send
> out, or of each Reply: I send to the list. 
> 
> Dean, please tell me if this original posting gets dittoed. Then
> tell me in e-mail if the reply I'm going to send to this message
> does.
> 
> If anyone else gets *two* copies of either or both of these, please
> let me know in e-mail. Thanks.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@mail.id.net   ]
[Speaking only for myself...  ]


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CS>I'm having a problem...

[M. G. Devour]

It seams Dean is getting duplicate copies of each posting I send out, 
or of each Reply: I send to the list. 

Dean, please tell me if this original posting gets dittoed. Then tell 
me in e-mail if the reply I'm going to send to this message does.

If anyone else gets *two* copies of either or both of these, please 
let me know in e-mail. Thanks.

Mike D.
[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@mail.id.net   ]
[Speaking only for myself...  ]


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Re: CS>Amber color of CS

[M. G. Devour]

Whitney wrote:

> But I still wonder *what* those particles are.  You pointed out that
> all we have here is pure H2O and silver, but we have some air, too. 
> So, if the particles are anything besides pure microscopic silver,
> could they be some combination of silver with the other elements
> present, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, etc?  Has that possibility been
> ruled out?  Has anyone had a lab test some CS for elemental purity?

Hi Whitney,

I sympathize with your wondering. The kind of testing you'd have to 
do to analyze this is quite specialized, and somewhat costly. 

But I'm pretty sure that *no* metallic surface is going to remain
"clean", ie. free from adsorbed or chemically bonded contaminants,
for more than a few milliseconds in water, no matter how pure.

So the easy answer to your question is, yes, the particles are not 
just metallic silver. We don't really know what's on the surface, or 
how it's bonded, but you can be sure it's there.

The good news, though, is we know it works. Also, there is decent 
indication that it is readily excreted (if made right) so we haven't 
heard of any cases of toxicity from the kinds of preparations 
we're making. 

Be well,

Mike D.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@mail.id.net   ]
[Speaking only for myself...  ]


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Re: CS>Amber color of CS

[Bruce K. Stenulson]

Philip Collins wrote:
> 
> Bruce,  Thanks so much for your detailed reply.  You wrote:
> 
> >As Peter Lindeman's article points out, very small individual particles
> >of silver , below a certain size in diameter, absorb other colors,
> >reflecting primarily yellow light; as the particle diameter gets larger,
> >other wavelengths / colors of light are reflected more, rather than
> >yellow. If you take a file to a silver coin, etc, the coarse particles
> >you can produce will reflect white light. The particles made in your CS
> >generator are very, very small.
> 
> Lindeman's article sure is impressive.  He even spells correctly!

I agree; it's one of the first documents I direct newbies to...

> 
> Maybe my question is really a non- question. When we say that something
> reflects yellow light, all we really mean is that it *is* yellow.
> Bananas, after all, reflect yellow light.  So it is not so surprising,
> maybe, that the particles which reflect yellow light while suspended in
> water, continue to reflect yellow light when they dry.  (I take it that was
> your point when you made the Rit dye analogy).

Yes, you've got it; technically, Lindeman says that it is the absorption
of INDIGO, leaving it's complement yellow reflected, that results in us
'seeing yellow' - same difference.

> 
> But I still wonder *what* those particles are.  You pointed out that all we
> have here is pure H2O and silver, but we have some air, too.  So, if the
> particles are anything besides pure microscopic silver, could they be some
> combination of silver with the other elements present, hydrogen, oxygen,
> nitrogen, etc?  Has that possibility been ruled out?  Has anyone had a lab
> test some CS for elemental purity?

I can't quote any sources for reference, but I expect that, with a good
grade of pure distilled water, what we're ending up with is mostly pure
charged ionic silver particles. If you bring your water to boiling
before starting the CS generating process, disolved gasses are minimized
(driven off) to an insignificant level. How you store the product AFTER
you're done may be more important. A sealed container with no air
included, kept completely away from any light, should have the longest
'shelf life' for our purposes. I still think making smaller batches
every 3 to 4 weeks, or more often as used, is a good approach.

> 
> >; in my understanding, it's the surface of the
> >anode itself that is subject to oxidation during the CS DC generating
> >process- not the free particles in suspension.
> 
> So you're saying that the black coating on the anode is silver oxide, but
> none of that gets into the water if we don't jiggle it too much?  I once
> overcooked a batch of CS in my Stenulson rig, and it turned grayish yellow.
> Any guesses what that was?

>From my observation, I'd bet it was some of the 'sludge' material that
forms ('plates out') on the surface of the anode, having been
'redispersed' by the hydrogen gas bubble evolution, which can get rapid
enough to knock some of it back into the water. I've also let a batch
'overcook' and have ended up with the same thing. It's very usable for
topical purposes, but I tend to prefer a batch stopped while it's still
clear, for injestion.

I'm exchanging some info with another designer on current limiting in a
(more elaborate) CS generator design, so that the current levels start
higher, but are not allowed to ever get too high. Automatic cuttoff at a
desired settable PPM level is another feature I intend to implement at
some time for a 'production system', but for casual personal use, I
believe it's good to let people know that it does not take a fancy high
dollar device to make good effective CS.


BE WELL!
Bruce


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Re: CS for pets???

[MedAltY2K]

In a message dated 9/21/98 6:07:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
charleswo...@access1.net writes:

<< Anyone have experience giving CS to pets? >>


I don't know anything about rats, but I do have an interesting story to tell
about my cat.  We have a Pine Martin in our woods and it is nasty.  One day
our cat came home and had a very nasty bite out of his hind quarter.  Now it
would have done no good to take him to the Vet, it was much too large to be
stitched up.  

I got out the CS and sprayed it directly on the wound.  He sure didn't like
that, but then began to lick at it.  He just laid there on the kitchen floor
for a day and a half.  In fact he was so weak that he ended up defecating on
himself and I cleaned the area under him with Clorox and water and tried to
make him comfortable.

I continued to put the CS on the wound for another three weeks.  I am happy to
say that it is now gone and his fur has grown back.  He walks with a slight
limp, as the wound was so deep and large that it destroyed some of the muscle.
But he is still here and doing well.  

I am sure that it would have cost a LOT of money at the Vet and possibly they
would have suggested that I put our dear "Fred" away.

Sandra


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Re: CS>Amber color of CS

[Philip Collins]

Bruce,  Thanks so much for your detailed reply.  You wrote:

>As Peter Lindeman's article points out, very small individual particles
>of silver , below a certain size in diameter, absorb other colors,
>reflecting primarily yellow light; as the particle diameter gets larger,
>other wavelengths / colors of light are reflected more, rather than
>yellow. If you take a file to a silver coin, etc, the coarse particles
>you can produce will reflect white light. The particles made in your CS
>generator are very, very small.

Lindeman's article sure is impressive.  He even spells correctly!

Maybe my question is really a non- question. When we say that something
reflects yellow light, all we really mean is that it *is* yellow.
Bananas, after all, reflect yellow light.  So it is not so surprising,
maybe, that the particles which reflect yellow light while suspended in
water, continue to reflect yellow light when they dry.  (I take it that was
your point when you made the Rit dye analogy).

But I still wonder *what* those particles are.  You pointed out that all we
have here is pure H2O and silver, but we have some air, too.  So, if the
particles are anything besides pure microscopic silver, could they be some
combination of silver with the other elements present, hydrogen, oxygen,
nitrogen, etc?  Has that possibility been ruled out?  Has anyone had a lab
test some CS for elemental purity?


>; in my understanding, it's the surface of the
>anode itself that is subject to oxidation during the CS DC generating
>process- not the free particles in suspension.


So you're saying that the black coating on the anode is silver oxide, but
none of that gets into the water if we don't jiggle it too much?  I once
overcooked a batch of CS in my Stenulson rig, and it turned grayish yellow.
Any guesses what that was?

Whitney










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